lli: 

i! k i • ^ 

|1 pi iiy^iiC 

■I iiitiiiiii'i'i 

' ''S'l']':''''' 



'^••■^(.|; 




%i. foljn tin ISbangelist, 
aSUcstmittstcr: 

PAROCHIAL MEMORIALS, 




[St. John ihc Evani^clisi, from Mrs. Jamieso/i's cngrai 
picture by Raphael., in the Musee at Marseilles.'] 



J. E. SMITH, 

restrv Clerk of St. Margaret and St. John the Evangelist, 
Westminster. 



1892. 



PRINTED BY VVIGHTMAN & CO., io.(, REGENCY STREET, 
WESTMINSTER, S.W. 
Entered at .Stationers' Hall.] 



^I^**" 



(D little ;fi3ooh! tlxou vtvt so uncunning, 

3JoU) tvxv'st thou \>\\i tlij}5clf in press, for ^reab? 

Jt is luoubcr that thou luaxcet not vcb ! 

(Since that thou knoto'st full lite luho shall bcholb 

i:hj) rube language, full boistouslu unfolb. " 

Chaucer 



AN ALPHABETICAL 
ARRANGEMENT OF SUBJECTS. 



Note. — The names of persons are in italics. 



111. 



"As Index /o the story r 

King Richard III., II. 



Abbey Water Mill 348 

Abingdon-buildings 400 

Abingdon-sti-eet ... 345, 397-400 
Ackiuortk, Buckcridgc Ball ... 523 
Accounts of Commissioners, cost 
of site and building of church 24-9 

Acreage of Wards 13 

Addison on chanty schools ... 18 
A Ibciiiarle, Lord, reminiscences 

271, 273, 313, 314, 411 
Aliock, Sir Rutherford ... 504, 534 
Aldridgc, Rebecca ... 66, 404, 533 



Alfred-street 


397 


Allen, Mr. G. Baiig/i 


. 1 1 


Allen-street 


397 


Allington-street 


• 396 


Almery School 


527 


Almonry, the 42S 


,435 


Aniory, Thomas 


427 


Archer, Thomas, architect 


f 


church 38, 40 {et passim J 


) 46 


Archery in Tothill-fields... 


281-5 


Architect of church i 


6,38 


Architecture of church, opinion 


s 


on — 




Beaconsfield, Earl of ... . . 


46 


Bohn,H. G 


43 


Cha)nberlain 


38 


Chesterfield, Lord 


46 


Cunningham, P 40- 


2, 44 


Dickens, Charles 


45 


Hare, A.J. C. 


46 


Jesse, J. Ileneagc 


45-6 


Knii^ht, C. 


44 


Lof'tie, IV. J. 


48 


Nightingale, Re7>.J. 


39 


Noorthouck,J. 


39 


Rimmer, A 


47 


U'alcott, Rev. M. 


45 


Watford, E 


47 


iraljole. Lord 


44 


Area of parish, and wards 


13 



Armed Association ... 146, 476-484 



V.M.K 

Army Clothing Depot 470 

Arncway, Thomas 396, 540 

Arneway-street 396,400 

Arnoldjarvis, Rev. E. C, 

M.A u8 

Arroiu, Mr. Churchiuarden, 

funeral of 146 

Artillery-ground (row, place, 

etc.) 284, 286, 299, 396, 401, 460 
A tcheson. Rev. H., M.L. ... 114 
A tterbury. Bishop Era "cis, DD. 

J r. '9' T^:>^ 437 
Atii'ood, Rev. T, B.A 103 

Augusta, (2ueen, at the Horse- 
ferry 2>33 

Autographs of Rectors 78 

B 

Bacchus, Mr. John 62, 65, 130, 532 

Back, Re-i'. J., M.A 117 

Baldwin, Caleb 271, 273 

Baltic Wharf, Cirosvenor-road 379, 

381 

Bandinel, Rev. J., M.A 115 

Baptisms 57 

Baptist Chapel, Romney-street 246 

Bardivcll, VVm 250 

Barloiv, Peter VV. 341, 344 

Barton-street, and Barton 

Booth 401,412,533 

Baths and Wash-houses, Com- 
mission, etc. 207, 450, 510-3 
Battery in Tothill-fields ... 287, 288 
Beaconsfield, L^ord, in West- 
minster 46,452-6 

Beadle, the Parish 132, 140 

Beans and Bacon 226 

Bear and bull-baiting, cock- 
fighting, dog-fighting, etc., 
in Tothill-fields, 268-70, 

273, 274, 275 

Beargarden, Wells' 269 

Beckioith, E. 459 



IV. 



Index. 



Beggar, a notable 449 

Bclgrave^ Lord Viscounty 145, 

146,354, 477. 478, 481 

Bell-street and Dr. A. Bell, 397, 

405, 529 

Bells 55 

Benedictine monks in West- 
minster 248, 251 

Benefactions to parish ... 65-6, 128, 
496-500, 531-540 

Bennett, Rev. T., D. D 112 

Bentinck, Archdeacon, \V. //., 

M.A 239, 405 

Bentinck-street 397. 405 

Benthain, Jeremy ... 367-70, 377-9 

Benthain, Sir Samuel 382 

Bessborough-gardens 248, 396, 504 
Bessborough-street, place, etc. 397 

Bickerton, Joint 276 

Bigg, Mr. J. 509 

' Bingham's Leap ' 271 

Birkbeck, Dr. G. ... 506 

Bishop, M. Hoi man, Esq. 4, 138, 534 
Black Coat Hospital ... 522, 527 

Black Dog Alley 469 

Blackamoors, baptism of ... 57 
Blackley, Rev. Canon, ALA. 4, 245 

Blair, Dr. John 68,83-5 

Blood, Colonel 463-9 

Bloomburg-street 397,405 

Blue Coat School 522-4, 527, 540 
Board of Works for Westmin- 
ster District 206 

Boating at the Ferry and Mill- 
bank 335-8 

Body stealing 124-5 

Bolder, Peter 415 

Bond-court 417 

Borradaile, Rev. A., M.A. 1 1 5, 225, 
226, 234, 239 

Boundaries of parish 9- 11 

Boundaries of Tothill-fields 

Trust 220 

Boundaries of wards ... 11- 12 
Bowling-alley (street) 396, 463-9 
Bradford, Bishop Samuel 31, 438 
Brewhouses on Millbank 354, 362 

Bridewell 319-21 

Broadway Chapel 17-71, 467, 522 
Broadwood, Messrs. ... 419, 431 

Broderick, Re^i. Dr. 71 

Brompton Cemetery 128 

Brown, Sir Samuel ... 339, 341 

Browne, Sir Anthony 386 

Brunsivick, Prince Charles of 382 



Brunswick-gardens, row and 

place 397, 417 

Buccleuch, Duke of 504, 528 

Bulinga Fen ... 8,248,250,311 

, Buller, John '. 460 

Burdett, Sir Francis 493-4, 528 

Burdett-Coutts, Baroness 227, 311, 

433, 504, 525 

Burdett-Coutts, IV., Esq., M.P. 494 

504, 534 

Burgess, Mrs. Ann 458 

Burgesses, Court of 220 

Burial Board 207 

Burial-ground — 

Acquisition and consecration 120 

Closed 124 

Converted into a garden ... 128 

Enlarged 123 

Fees 121, 122, 128 

Grant, Dr. Donald 130 

Indian Chief buried in ... 129 

^ohnson. Alderman J. 131 

Military funeral, a 146 

Monuments 129- 131, 154 

Overcrowded condition 122-3 
'Resurrection' outrages 124-5 

Surface raised 122,251 

Torchlight funerals 121 

Burial in woollen 126 

Burial registers 56, 128 

Busfeld, Rev.J.A.,D.D. ... 113 
Butts, The 281, 284, 285, 286, 479 
Byron'' s swim 338 



Calamy, D. Dr. 

Caldwall, Janws, engraver . . . 
Campus Martius of West- 
minster 

Capon, Jr. 361, 381, 

Carey-street and Dr. IV. Carey 

318,397, 
Carter, JoJin 

Cass, Christopher, mastermason 
Catholic Apostolic Church ... 

Causton-street 319, 397, 

Census statistics 

Cesspools 

Centenarians 129, 

Chadwick-street ... 396, 406, 

Chapter-street 318,319, 

' Charleys,' the old 

Chartist Rising, the ... 376, 
Chelsea-road 287, 



73 

no 



426 
405 

474 
130 
246 
406 

14 

204 
427 
432 
397 
209 
485 
306 



Index. 



V. 



House 



PAliK 

Chelsea Water Works 347 

C/iclsom, Dr. 426 

C/icri/on. Rc-<i. C, B. A 103 

Cholera epidemic 204 

Christ Church, Victoria-street 

17, 71, 467, 469 
Church accommodation in St. 

Margaret's parish ... 17, 23 
Church, St. John's — 

Architect 

Architectural opinions on 

Bells 

Benefactions 

' Church of th 
Commons' 

Clock 

Consecrated 

Cost of erection ... 

Dedication 

Destroyed by fire... 

P^ont 

(Galleries 

(ias, lighted by 

Interior 

Monuments 

O.i'giin 

Pictures 

Plate 

Railings 

Registers 

Repairs 

Restoration after the fire 

Site, purchase of 

South-west pinnacle ... 

\'aults 

Windows 32, 56, 

Church House, The 460, 510, 512 

Church-street 217,396 

Churdnll., Charles, llic poet 76-7, 
103-1 1 1, 422 

C/iiirchi//, John 399 

Churchill^ Mrsr Susannah ... 452 
Churchill, Rev. Charles 32, 10 1-2 
Churchill, Thomas 32, 102, 145 
Churchwardens- 
Election of 134 

Fines for non-acceptance of 
office 145 

List of '35-^ 

Prayer books presented to 145 
Churchwardens' Day ... 139-144 
Churchwarden s funeral, .\ .. 
Churchwardens' accounts 

Butts and shooting house .. 

Fall of houses in Perkin's 
rents 



... 38 
38-48 
... 55 
65, 128 
of 

^'5 

^V 

3-3 

24-9 

29 

33"5 

••■ 55.59 
... 49. 50 

64 

5'-2 

60-3 

... 48-9, 55 
... 56, 58 

53-5 

5^ 

56, 57, 128 
o-i, 53, 194-9 

.. 36 
.. 24 

3^^. 50 
..67-9 

58,59 



146 
289 



435 



Churchwardens' accounts tv>////;///r^/. 

Plague and pest-houses 293-7 

Provision of butts, arms, 

setting-out soldiers, &c. 284, 

286, 288-9 

Sale of grass 253 

Scottish prisoners ... 291-2 

Cigar-Box, the.. 188 

City of Westminster Mechanics' 

Institution 459,506,509 

Claims by Rectors 68 

Clayton, Dean 215 

Clock 67 

Closing of burial-ground 124, 126 
Coaches, Annual procession of 361 
Cobourg-row ... 318, 319, 397, 407 
Cock-pits 268, 270, 452, 462 

Coldstream C.uards' Hospital 311, 

525 

Cole, Mr. Jacob 485-7 

Coleridge, Dr. 426 

College-court 416 

College-street 217, 337, 354, 356, 

407.15 
Collins, TK;//., the artist ... 278,427 
Colours of Westminster Volun- 
teers 483 

Colquhou/i, Dr. J^africk, on the 

police 209,505 

Commission, see " Royal Com- 
mission " 

Communion plate 54 

Condition of clergy in i8th cen- 
tury ... ..V 70,74,75 

Condition of streets ... 200-5 
Consecration of burial-ground 1 20 

Consecration of church 30 

Consolidated charities ... 534-6 

Constitution of Vestry 191 

Convocation, controversy be- 
tween Upper and Lower 

Houses 18,19,20 

letter of Queen Anne to 20 

Coinuay, Canon 504 

Cook, J as. Esq 4 

Coonibes, the champion of the 

Thames 316 

Cornwallis, Letitia 540 

Cosens, Rc7>. IV. E. R., D.P. 4-241 

Cos.'ier, .Stephen, Esq 60 

Cost of site and building of 

Church 24-9 

' Councillor Bickerton, Jisq.,\.. 276 

Court of Burgesses 220 

Cowley-strcct and Abraham 

Cowley 401, 403, 412 



VI. 



Index. 



I'AGE 

Cow distemper, of 1750 253 

Craven, Earl, account of the 

Pestilence 301 

Criticisms on architecture of 

Church 39-48 

Crosse, Charles 35» 68 

Crosse, Godsalve 33, 66 

Crosse, Sir John 

34, 35, 49,65, 135, 361 
Crosse, Sir Thomas 

67, 135, 140, 489-91 
Crown Estate Paving Com- 
mission 203 

Cubili, Mr. T. M.P 239 

Cumberland, Richard ... 400,433 
Cumberland Tea Gardens 381, 384 
Curates and Lecturers ... 101-119 
Cutler, Sir John 17 

D 

Dangers of Millbank and Tot- 
hill-fields 306, 354 

Dangers of the streets ... 212-4 
Da7iiell-Bainbridge,Rev. H. G., 

M.A 118 

Date of erection of church ... 30 
Davies, Mary, the heiress ... 357 

Davies, Rev. G. H. D 119 

Davies, Reit. W. H. 116 

Davis, Ann 533 

Davis, Rev. JJ\ 113 

Da_y, Miss 519 

De Groflf 435 

Dean and Chapter, disputes 308-10, 
439, 422 
Dean-street ... 217, 396, 426, 459 



Dean's-place 397 

Deans of Westminster ... 437-8 
Declared Accounts of Com- 
missioners 24-9 

Dedication of church 29 

Delaval House 399 

Delaval, Sir John 354 

Denn, Dr. 31 

Derivation of title of church ... 29 
' Desart of Westminster,' the 428 
Description of church ... 40-52 

' Devil's Acre,' the 443 

Devon-place 417 

Diekens, C, description of a 

London burial-ground ... 123 

Church, Smith-square 45, 47 

Horseferry, the 335 

— Millbank 365-6 

'Our parish' 139 



Dilke, Charles W. and Dilke, 

Sir Charles W., M.P. 409, 458 

Dickinson, Edward 65,532 

Dickson, Rev. G. D. IV., M.A. 4, 244 
Dinner on ' Churchwardens' 

day ' 142 

Dirty Condition of Church ... 53 

Dirty Lane 398 

Discovery of skeletons 300 

Dispensary, Western ... 503, 536 
Dissensions in Convocation 18-20 
Distilleries on Millbank 362, 389 

Dolben, Bishop John 437 

Dodd, Ralph 381 

Douglas-place 471 

Douglas-street 397,416 

Downes, Rev. J. 113 

' Duck,' the 255,271,313 

Duck-lane... 237, 275, 451,522, 527 
Duelling in Tothill-fields ... 305 

Duke-street Chapel 17 

Dutch picturesciueness of Mill- 
bank 358-361 

Duties of Vestry 200 



Earl-street 395, 396, 421 

Eaton, Rev. H., B.A 103 

Ebury, Lord 

Ecclesiastical disagreements 

Ecclesiastical districts 

Edgar, Charter of ... 8,222, 

Edric the fisherman - 

Edward-street 397, 

Edwards, Rev. Holland 59, 87 
Eldrich's Nursery ... 8, 216, 
Election of Paving Com- 
missioners 

Elections, Parliamentary in 

Westminster 488- 

Elliott, Captain 

Elliott, John Lettson, Esq. 

4, 147, 318, 329, 
Ellis, Rev. H. M., M.A. 
Elliston, R. ]l\, the actor ... 
Emanuel Hospital 17,460, 522, 
Emery Hill's Almshouses 

17, 406, 439, 496-500. 

Engine House 218, 

' English Bastille,' the ... 366- 
Enquiry by Royal Commission 
as to need of new churches 

•7, : 

Esher-street 

Etymology of 'Tothill' ... 249, 



357 
18 

•5 
245 
324 
543 
,89 
253 



494 
506 

509 
118 
425 
540 

522 
436 
377 



395 
250 



Indi 



ex. 



Vll, 



Ei'diis, Dr., epitaph on \'an- 

bruj^h 42 

Evans, Mr. /f., churcliwarden 137 

147-50, 177, 528 

Evans, Rci'. S. 103 

Evening service commenced... 91 



Fairs in Tothill-fields 263-7, 271,418 

Famous Frosts 326-9 

Far^ucll, R 62. 532 

Festivities in Tothill-ficlds 256-8 

Finc/i, Dr. Poolc 63, 85-6 

Fines for non-acceptance of 

office of churchwarden ... 45 

Finney, Mr. 462 

Fire-engine, annual drill ... 141 
F"ire-extinguishing arrangements 

in parish 218,220 

Fire inquest held by \'estry ... 2ig 
Fire insurance offices ... 33,219 

Fish Market, the 500 

Fitzi^crald, Rev. T. loi 

Five Chimney-court ... 316,471 
Five Chimneys, or Seven 

Houses, 253, 271, 273, 276-8, 
297, 302, 314, 316, 471 
' Five Fields,' the ... 252, 306, 314 
Flight of James II. and his 

Queen ... I'^^-'h^l 

Floods in Westminster 252, 349, 350 

Font 55, 59 

Foot, R 62 

Ford, Francis, Esq. 4 

Forrest, Henry 5 38-9 

Fort in Tothill-fields 287 

France, Rev. G., M. A 115 

Frankly n, Rev. J. H. 118 

Frederick-street 397 

P'ree Public Library 207, 459, 506-10 

Freeing of the liridges 344 

Freeman, IV. 63 

Frost Fair 328 

Funeral of Mr. CliurcliiL'arden 

Arrow ... 146 

Funerals by torchliglit 121 

Furniture belonging to church 56 
Furse, Rev. Canon C. IV., M. A. 99 
Fyncs-street 318, 397, 417 



Galleries in Church 49 

Garden-street 3 '9. 417 

Gas, first used in church 64, 216 



Gas, invention and introduc- 
tion of 215-7, 394 

In parish 205,216-7, 418, 423, 

432 
Gate House Prison ... 320, 321 

Gay/ere, Mr. 68, 416 

Gee, Dr. Ediuard i\, 71, 79-81, 194 

Geological features 12-13 

Geori^e Il\ in Tothill-fields 314-6 

Glcniiervie, Lord 503 

Gibbon, the historian 407 

Gibbs, Mr. IVii/iani ... 235, 238 
Gi/t>ert, Rev. P. P., M.A. ... 114 
Gini^cr, IV., of College-street 410 

' Go your way ' 

Godson, .Septimus H. 

(jooseberry Fair 

Governors and Directors of the 

Poor 203, 

Great .Seal thrown .into the 

Thames 

Grant, Dr. Donald 

(travel taken from Tothill- 
fields 251, 303, 305-6 

Great College-street 217, ^^y], 354, 
356, 407-15 

216, 217, 396, 

431-3' 5'3 

217, 237,407, 
456-9 

60 

58, 66, 145 

... 522-3 

319, 522, 527 



409 
509 

271 

442 



MO 



Great Peter-street 
Great Smith-street 



Green, Mr. David . 
Green, Mr. T/ionias 
Greene, IVi/liani 
Green-coat Hospital 
(Greenwich parish church ... 20 
(irenadier Guards' Hospital ... 525 
Grey-coat Hospital 17, 312, 417, 
519-22, 527, 540 
Grey-coat-place and street 396, 417 

Grinsell, Mrs. Jane 538-9 

Gritten, IV. R 508 

Grosi'enor, Sir Robert 35, 49, 135, 

■40, 355' 356 
Grosvenor, Lord 122.123,355,363 
(Sec Petcrborouoli House) 

Grosvenor Hospital 524 

Grosvenor-road 363, 364-5, 379, 381, 

417 

Gros\cnor-street 395 

Grub-street 419 

Guards' Hospitals 31 i, 441, 471, 525 

Gulston's-cottagcs 315,406 

Gik.'ilt, Josepli 398 

Giuydyr, Lord 478 

Craynne, Madame 316, 387 



vm. 



Index. 



H 



Haggitt, Rev. HArcy, M.A...^ 113 

Hale., A rchdeacoi 53 

Halfpenny Hatch, the 313, 314, 315, 

472 

Hall, Robert, M. A 76 

Hall, Sir Benjamin 205 

Haniniick, Rev. E. A., M.A. i 19 

Harrage, Air. E 63 

Harvey, Rev. R 89 

Hat her ley. Lord (Sir IV. Page 

Wood) 268, 509, 528 

Hawkes, Mrs. E. M. 62 

Hayes, Catherine 473 

Heather, William 447 

' Heaven Tavern' 400 

Hebberfield, Wm. (Slender 

Billy) 271-5,276 

Herriek Robert 444 

Hcrtslet, monuments in church 61 

Hide-place 318 

Hiffernan, Paul 409 

High-street at Millbank 354 

Highwaymen 306, 354, 418 

Hill in Tothill-fields 249, 251, 256, 

490 

Hill's Almshouses 17,406,439, 496- 

500, 539 

Hipioell, Daniel, Esq. ... 5, 100 

Hisco.v, Rev. J. 113 

Historic sign-boards ... 394-5, 404 
Hobhouse's Act, adopted ; and 

result 203-4 

Home for Working' Boys ... 513 

Hora, James, Esq 504 

Holland-street 397,423,543 

Holy Trinity, Bessborough- 
gardens, church and 
schools ... 15,239-242,405 

Holywell-street 395) 430 

Horse baited to death 269 

Horse Ferry, the — 

Boats and boating ... 335-8 

Byron^ s sw'ww 338 

Dusky ambassadors at ... 327 

Famous frosts 326-9 

Ferry House 333-5 

Ferry rates 329 

First steam-boat 338 

Flight of James II. and his 

Queen ^'^'^-^To 

Lambeth-bridge ... 333, 338-346 
Legend of St. Peter and the 
fisherman 324-6 



PAGE 

Horse Ferry, the — contijtued. 
Marlborough and the ferry- 
man 333 

Notable passengers ... 327, 333 
(2iteenAicgiista of Saxe-GotJia 333 

Regatta, the 336 

Water-works 347 

Westminster and Eton 
Horseferry-road 203, 216, 396, 417 

Horsley, Bishop Samuel 438 

Hotchkiss, Rev. V., B.A. 112, 542 
House of Commons at St. John's 

Church ... 65 

Houses first numbered 394 

Ho7vard, Hon. E. C 525 

Howard, John, the philan- 
thropist 321, 367 

Hoivell, Rev. J. •. 103,542 

Hiibbert, 'ganiekeeper of Tot- 
hill-fields' 275 

Hudson's-terrace 395 

Hughes, Rev. J., M.A 114 

Hunt, Mr. Ja?nes 59, 66, 147, 150 
Hunt, Rev. H. W., M.A. ...117 
Hunt, Sir H. A. 59, 65, 66, 147, 244 
////;;/, SirE. Seager, M.P. ... 128, 
138, 150 

Hutchins, Mr. J. P 5 

Huttons, the, of College-street 415 

I 

Indian chief buried in St. John's 

Burial-ground 129 

Inliabited houses. Number of 14 
Inquest of a fire held by Vestry 219 
Inscriptions in church ... 60, 63 
Instrument appointing Vestry 191 

setting out the parish ... 9-10 

Insurance offices in London 33, 219 
Interior of church described ... 51-2 

Inundations 252, 349 

Inventory of plate, furniture, 

ornaments, &c 53-6 

' Irvingites' in Westminster ... 246 
Islip, Abbot 386 



'Jack Hair 125 

James H. and Mary of Modena, 

flight of y-^-ZTo 

Jennings, The Ven. Archdea- 
con John, M.A. — 

Life 88-98 

Monument 61 



hide. 



Icniiings., The Ven. Archdea- 
con John, M.A. — contimicd. 
References to 128, 151, 207, 222, 
224, 226,232,239,509,511, 527 

Wife's monument 60 

Jcphson, Rev. IV., Jf.A 116 

' Joe Miller,' a 357 

Jones, Rcxi. A., B.D 116 

Jones, Rev. Giistaviis, M.A. 

Jones, Jemima 533 

John's-place 473 

Joint son. Alderman John 

89, 131, 137, 151-4, 363 

Johnson-street 395, 396, 420 

Johnson, Dr. S., on street dan- 
gers, etc. 213, 215 

Johnson, Rev. IV. 113 

Jubilee of George III. and 

Qiieoi Victoria , ... 484 



K 



Keats, Jolin 




408 


Keene, Rev. Tallwt, M.A. 




I 12 


Ken, Bishop 




72, 


Kensington-place 




395 


King's Arms presented 


to 




Church 




32 


King's Scholars' pond 


and 




seM-er. 256, 271, 


387, 


388 


Knightsbridge, proposed 


sur- 




render of 




388 


Knvi'ctt, G. If. W. 




61 


Kyte, Rev. J., I)./) 




1 1 1 



J.amtiert, 'J'homas 410 

Lanibclh-bridge 333, 338-346, -:,']^ 

Lam])lighter, the old 214 

Langton, Bennett 477 

Laundry-yard 420, 425, 431 

' Lay Bishop of Westminster,' 

the 268 

Legendary history ... 248, 250, 324 
Lennox, Lord, reminiscences 275 

Levying of rates 194,316 

Library, P'ree IHiblic ... 207, 506 

Licttfield, Risliop of 53 

Lighting of streets, tSic. 212-7, 394 

Lillington-street 396, 420 

Lindsey House and lane 354,397-8, 

400 

Linen, burial in 126 

Linen of church ;6 



TAGE 

Link-boys, the 213 

List of churchwardens ... 135-8 

List of overseers 181-4 

List of curates and lecturers loi-i 19 
List of representatives in par- 
liament 493-4 

List of \'estry clerks 189 

Littlington, Aldwt 348, 386, 407, 41 r 

Little College-street 415 

Li-ttle Feter-strcet ... 396, 431, 474 

Little Smith-street 217, 460 

Lives of the Rectors ... 79-100 
Local self-government of parish 

190-220 

Longevity 128-9, 4^7 

Longtands, Rev. T., ALA. ... 113 

Lowe, Rt. Hon., W. 482 

Loiundes, William 489, 490 

M 

J/r?ivr//'Ari'on condition of clergy 75 
Malone, Rev. R., M.A. 5, 236, 237-8 

Manning, Rev. C, B. A 112 

Margrie, Mr. James ... 5,515 

Market-street 418 

Man of Ross, of Westminster 496 
Mansell, John, Henry Ill's 

Councillor 258 

Afarlborough, Dulce c^and the 

lucky ferryman },})'^ 

ALarlborough House, court and 

place 423 

Marsham, Charles, Earl of 

Romney 420 

Marsham-strect 

7, 9, 217, 250, 396, 412, 420 
Maud, Rev. J. P.junr., M.A. 119 

Maze, the 304-5 

McNally, John, a notable 

^egyar 449 

Medical garden 253 

Medway-street 39'^i 397 

' Memorial of the Church of 

England, a' 18 

Merrie Westminster 281 

JVIetropolis Local Management 

Act 205 

Middlesex and Westminster 

\'olunteers 483 

Midnight interments 121 

Military Hospitals 524 

Millbank 315,396 

A capacious tree 381 

Hank, the early 349, 350, 35 1 -2 
Hclgrave House 354 



X. 



Index. 



36 r 

356, 357 



M ihljank — continued. 

Brevvhouses, disiilleries ... 362 
Complaints of condition of 

highway 351-3 

Dangers of 354 

/^/c-/'£77j' description of ... 365 
Dutch pictnresqueness of 

358, 359, 361 
F'ashionable quarter, a 354, 358 

Mill, the Abbey 348-9 

Peterborough House 355-8,' 362 
Procession of Coaches, 

annual 361 

Salisbury Estate 

Sunday Constable, the ... 354 
Tidal inundations... 252, 349, 350 

Toldcroy, Mis 365 

Waterworks 346,354 

Wharves, formation of 362-4 

Windmill 

Millbank House 

Millljank Penitentiary 

.,.,„ , 315,362,364,366-377 

Millbank-street 

,r;, --'7,' 218, 314, 354, 379,394 
Miller., Geoi'gc Taiierner., Esq 

J-P 5, 138 

Mil/er, Rev. George, A/. A. 

5, 117, 241 
Miller, Ta7'ernerJo/in, M.P. 154 

Mill's-buildings 417 

Minor and major trouljlcs of 

church T.\ 

Mitchell, Eliza Ann 

Mob violence 

' Mohocks,' the 

Monck, Henry 

Monck-street 

Monster Tea-gardens 
Montagu, E. Woj^tley ... 
Monuments in burial'ground 
Monuments in church ... 

Morris, Jo/in 

Mount, Patrick, R.N. 

M(mil?ray, Re?'. E. G. L., M.A. Ti„ 

Murdoch, William 215 

Music in church 48 



••• 534 
... 449 
... 213 
185, 423 
396, 423 
... 316 

• 457 

• 60-3 
. 61 

459 



N 

Names first placed on doors 

Nnpic}; Rev. G., M.A 

Nares, Archdeacon R 

National Schools, founder of. 
National Society, the 



394 
119 

305 

405 
428 



Nature of soil 12-3 

Neat-houses, the 252 

Negroes, baptism of 
New Peter-street ... 
New Pye-street 

New-street 

Newton, Thomas ... 
' New Way,' the 
Nicholls, Dr. IV. ... 

' Nickers,' the 

North-street ... 396, 

Nuisances 

iVussey, Rev. J., M.A. 



PAGE 

I 39 (et 
passim), 251 
-87, 316, 385- 
390 

57 

... 406, 432 

••• 396, 433 

... 425.544 

452 

205, 428, 438 

457 

213 

412,425,544 

205 

114 



Offa, charter of 7,248 

Oil lamps, introduction of ... 214 
Old Pye-street 237, 238, 396, 433 
Olivier, Rev. H. E., B.A. ... i 19 
Ommaney, Admiral ... 145,354 
Onley, Dr. Nicholas 20. 24, 30 

Orchard-street 246, 251, 394, 426-30 

Organ, the 48, 49, 55 

Organists 4^ 

Origin of parishes 7 

Origin of St. John's parish ... 9 

Ornaments of church 31 

O swell. Rev. H. L., M.A. ... 115 
Overflows of the Thames 252, 349 
Overseers, appointment of ... 181 

duties of 179-181 

list of igi 

O.vley, Mr. W. E. Marl a ml '" 

5, 266, 268 



Page-street 

Paintings in church 
Palmer's Almshouses 
Palmer's Village ... . 
Pamphlet, an obnoxious. 

Parish officers 

' Parish parade,' the... . 

Parish plate 

Parish registers ... . 
Parliament and the 

churches 

Parliament-stairs 

Parliamentary grant after fire 35 

Parochial charities 531 

Past Overseers' Society 156, 184-8 
Patronage of Parliamentary 

candidates 488-494 



• 396, 430 

• 56, 58 
. 17, 406 

• ••• 319 
. ... 18 
.. 132-189 
. ... 141 

■ 53-5. 56 

.56-8, 128 

new 

. ... 21 

398-9 



Index. 



XI. 



... 400 
• 251,430 
13, 38, 39 

... 1 10 

35 



Patriotism of Westminster 281, 284, 

286, 475-487 

Paul I, Rc7'. H. H. /)'., M.A.... 117 

Pauper burials 121 

Pavilion in St. John's-garden 128 
Paving" Acts and Commissions, 

201-4, 362,396. 439, 442 
Paymcmts to liuilders of church 25-9 
Peabody-buildings, and Gcori^c 

Pcabody 426,429 

Pc(irCL\ Bishop Zacliary 438 

Pcanc, Williain 

Pear-street 

Peaty nature of soil 
Pi'/rson, Satinicl 
Pclhaiii.Mr. ... .. 

Pcpys at the Neathouscs 386-7, 3 

Perkins-rents 435 

Pest Houses and the Plague 

292-302, 438, 471 
Peter-streets (Great and Little) 431 
J\'icrborot/g/i, Charles., 3rd Earl 

of " 357 

]*cterborough House 355-8, 362, 363 
P helps. Rev. F. P., M.A. ... 119 

Phillips, Rev. H. E 117 

Physical features 8,12-13 

Picture of church after fire 

Pictures in church 

Pinfold, Dr. Charles j 

Pipcr's-ground 415 

Plantagenets, the 252, 281 

Plate of church 53-5 

Playground of famous boys ... 306 
Pleasures of the town arcli;c- 

ologist 392-3 

Poet Laureate {H.J. Pye) ... 505 

Police-court 505 

Police of the metropolis 209 

Ponsonby-place, street, i.*tc. 315, 379 

J'oole, Mr. Henry K 5 

Population 14 

J'or/er, Henry and the ' great 

organ' 48 



33 

56, 59 
I 



Arehdeaeon 

98 

4'7, 439 

112 



Portrait of Ven. 
Jen)iini^s . . . 

Pound House, the 

ro7o, Rev. W. M. 

rowcll, Rev. Ci 

Prayer books, presentation of... 

I'riee, Samuel 

Prisons (.ftv "Bridewell," "Tot- 
hill-fields," and "Millbank 
Prison"). 

Prize-fighting in Tothili-fields 



I 12 

•45 
35 



271 



Public Baths and Wash-houses 207, 

45O' 510 

Public-house signs 395 

Puljlic Record Office, 'Declared 

Accounts' 24-9 

Pureell, Henry 435, 445-7 

Purchase of site for church ... 24 

' Puss in a parachute ' 390 

/'jv, Sir Robert 435, 505 

PycH.j. 505 

Pye-street (Old and New) 237, 238, 
396, 433 



Queen Anne's bounty ... ••• 18 

Queen-square Chapel 17 

Queen-street police office ... 505 
Queen's Royal Volunteers 481, 483 
Queen's-stairs 398 



Race-course at Tothili-fields ... 270 
Railings and gates round 

church 52 

Raising of burial ground 122, 251 
Rampart in Tothi'll-fields 287, 288 

Ranelagh sewer 388 

Rates, levying and collection 

of 194' 3'8 

Raii'linson, AV?'. G 225 

Reahhlous, A. //. Esq. J /.A. 

P.Se 5 

Recantations 56-7 

Red House, the ^^y 

Rector's Rate 100, 194 

Rectors, the 70-100 

Rectors, claims by 68 

Rectory House 154-5 

Regattas at the Horse Ferry... 336 
Regency (Regent) street 318,436 
' Regent Arms ' public-house... 318 
Regent- place, engine-house in 

218, 436 

Registers of parish 56-8, 128 

Relations between Vestries of 

two parishes '94-9 

Ren/lie, Sir John 371, 382 

Repair of highways 351-3 

Report of Royal Commission 

as to need of new churches 1 7 
Representatives in Parliament 493-4 
Restoration after the fire ; the 
Vestry's difficulties ; Par- 
liamentary grant obtained; 
cost 34-6 



Index. 



I'AGE 

'Resurrection' outrages... 124-5 
Rewards for attendance at fire 219 
Reviews of Westminster Volun- 
teers 479-81 

Ridley-place 436 

Rigg. Rev. J. H.,D.D 518 

Rigiits of w^ay, questions of 

310 (cf passim), 389, 439-442 

Road- watering 205 

Robertson, Col. IV. 426 

Robertson, Mrs. A7iasiasia ... 357 
Rochester, Bishops of ... 437-8 
Rochester-row 

203, 246, 316, 397, 436-443 

Rodber, Rev. IV. J. 114 

Roman Catholic Church 245 

Romney-street 217, 246, 396, 421 
Rose, Mr. Frederick 184, 185, 543 
Royal Commission (New 

Churches) appointment ... 22 

representation by St-.Mar- 

garet's Vestry to 23 

report 17 

Roivell, Rei'. T. loi 

RiisJiii'orili,Jo]in 448 



Sne/ieiierell, Dr. Henry 
Saint Andrew's Home 
Saint Ann's-court ... 
Saint Ann^-lane 
Saint Ann's-street ... 2 
Saint Edward's Fair 



19 

513 

232-3. 450 
232, 443-50 

?>!■: 443. 450 
264-5 



Saint George, Hanover-square 

parish of 8, 387, 388 

vSainl James-the-less, Upper 

Garden-street 15,242-5 

Saint John's Burial-ground {see 

"Burial-ground") 543 

Club 5 J 4- '5 

Church {see "Church, 

The") 

Parish {sec " Parish") 

Public-garden 127-8 

■ Snuff-box 56, 156-177 

Saint John-street 396,450 

Saint Katherine's Docks 13, 385 
Saint Margaret's church ... 17 

parish 7, 16 

\^estry, Statement of, as 

to need of new church ... 23 

Relations between 

St. John's Vestry and 194-9 
Saint Margaret and St. John's 

Armed Association, 146, 476- 
484 



267 
404 

54 
527 

113 
471 



PAGE 

Saint Margaret's Fair ... 265-6 
Saint Martin-in-the-Fieids, 

parish of 8, 387, 388 

Saint Mary-the- Virgin, Tothill- 

fields 15, 92, 224-6, 310 

Saint Mary's Roman Catholic 

Church 245 

Saint Matthew, Great Peter- 
street 15' 93> 232-9 

Saint Matthew-street 451 

Saint Peter and Edric the 

fisherman 324 

Saint Stephen, Rochester- 
row, Church and Schools 

15, 226, 232, 311 
Salisbury Estate 356, 389, 470 
Sanctuary, the unhappy privi- 
leges of 

' Salutation 'Inn 

Schedule of church plate, bells, 
furniture, ornaments, &c. 

Schools 

(See also Hospitals). 

Scott, Rev. C, M.A 

Scots Guards' Hospital 

Scottish prisoners in Tothill- 

fields 289-92 

Secrcta?!, Rev. C. F. ... ^ ... 241 
Self-government of the parish 

190-220 

Services in church \ 48 

Seven houses or Five Chimneys 

253, 271, 273, 276-8, 302, 
314, 316, 471 

SIiedlock,J. F. 436, 509 

SliepJiard, C/iristop/ier 129 

Shcppard, Jane 63 

Skeletons discovery of 300 

'Ship' The, Millbank 315 

Ship-court 396, 419 

Signboards, disappearance of 394 
Signs, Old Westminster 394-5, 404 
Sinclair, Vcn. Archdeacon, 53, 

. . -3' 
Smking of church during build- 
ing' 38-9 

Suns, Re7'. Joseph 34, 82 

"Sir Roger de Coverley" in St. 

Ann's-lane 445 

on the need of the new 

Churches 15 

Site of Church 23,24 

' Slender Billy ' ... 2 7 1 - 6, 3 1 6 
Slums of Westminster 232-3, 237 
Smallwell, Rev. E., D.D. 103, 542 
Smirkc, Sir Robert 367, 371 



Index. 



xiu. 



Smith, Mr. J. £"., Vestry Clerk 

I, 189 
Smith, Henry, site of church 

purchased of 24, 456 

Smith, Stone, monuments of 

family of 6o-i 

Smith-street {see ' Great Smith- 
street ') 
'Smithfieldof Western London' 255 

Smith-square 412, 452-6 

Smith, Sir James 456 

Snipe in Tothill-fields 253, 255, 275, 

Snuff-box, the 56, 156-177 

Soil, spongy nature of 13, 39. -51, 
342, 370, 377 
Sounding board in church ... 48 
South-west tower, destroyed by 

fire 36 

.South-west tower, struck lay 

ligliting 50 

Southern, Thomas 456 

Special Constables ... 376, 485-7 

Sprat, Bishop Thomas 437 

.Stafford, Robert 66, 67, 137,, 533 
Statistics of insanitary condi- 
tion of parish 204-5 

Statistics of population, houses, 

&c 14 

Statistics of the ecclesiastical 

districts ' 224 

Steam-boat, first on the Thames 338 

Steele, Sir Richtfrd 457 

Stephctison, Mr. Simon ... 58-9, 66 
Stockdalc and Hansard ... 1 47- 50 
Stokes, Rev. G., LL. B. ... 114 

Stone, Rev. T, M.A 115 

Street lighting 212-17 

Streets, condition of ... 200-5 

dangers of 212-4 

lighting of 394 

Stretton, Rev. H., M.A 116 

Strutton-ground 217, 460 

Styles, Rei>. F. M.A 115 

Sub-soil, nature of I--13 

' Sugar Hog'shead,' the 427 

Swift's ' Description of a City 

Shower' 200 

' Swiss Ground,' the 205 



Tachbrook-street ...396, 461, 543 
Tate's, Mr. H. ' National Gal- 
lery of British Art ' yj"] 



lA<.li 

Tat ton, George, Esq 62 

Tavern signs 395 

Taylor, Rev. C. R., M.A. ... 118 
Tayton, the late Mr. T.J. 5, 138 

Teesdale, Col. 410 

Telford, Thomas 398 

Tennant, Rev. W., M.A. 115,229, 

231 

Terry, Mr. G. P. IV. 6 

Thames, overflowing of 252, 349 
-Theatre booths, Tothill-fields 

Fair ... 266 

Thirleby, Bishop 438 

Thoms, /r./. ... 311, 315, 415, 431 

Thomas, Bishop John 438 

Thomas, Rev. H. D., M.A. ...' 118 

Thorney Island 248 

Tidal inundations 349 

Till, Rev. L. IV., M.A., 117 

Title of the church, derivation 29 
Tobacco-box, the ... 156, 184-8 

Tolderoy, M?-s 365 

Toll bars 319 

Tombstones in burial-ground 130 
Toplady, Rev. A. M., B.A. 112, 542 

Torchlight funerals 121 

Tothill-fields, 8, 9, 11, 13, 356, 431, 
437' 43^ 
Tothill-fields— 

Albemarle, Lord, reminis- 
cences 271,273,313,314 

Ancient appearance and to- 
pography ... ... ... 247-8 

Archery, practice in ... 281-5 
Artillery ground ... 284, 286, 299 
Bahkuin, Caleb ... ''...271, 273 

Battery, the 287,288 

Bear and bull baiting, cock- 
fighting, dog-fighting, iScc. 

268-270, 273, 275 
i)V////ww'.s- description of ... 369 

' Bi/!>;ha//is\c^p' 271 

Bridewell 319 

Bulinga Fen 8,248,250 

Butts and Shooting-house 

281, 284, 285, 286, 479 
Campus Martius of West- 
minster 280 

Collins,'"]V., the artist ... 278 
Complaints of removal of 

gravel, &c., from ... 251, 303 

Council I or Bicker ton, Esq. 276-8 

Cow distemper of 1750 ... 253 

Cra-i'cn, Earl of, account 

concerning the pestilence 301 



XIV. 



Index. 



Totbill-fields — coutimted. 

Discovery of skeletons ... 300 
Disputed claims with Dean 
and Chapter to ... 308-10 

' Duck,' the 255, 271, 313 

Duelling in 305 

Etymology of name ... 249, 250 

Festivities in 256-8 

' Five Chimneys' or ' Seven 
Houses' 253, 271, 273, 276-8 
297, 302, 314, 316 

Geology i3' 248 

George IV.\x\ 31 4-6 

Halfpenny Hatch, the ... 314 
Hebberfield, IV;/l, or ' Slender 

Billy' ... ... 271-6 

Highwaymen in 306 

' Hill,' the 249, 251, 490 

Horse baited to death ... 269 
Hubbcrt, R. ; and Mother 

Hubbert ... 275, 313 

King's Scholars' Pond and 

sewer 256, 271 

Legendary history 250 

Lennox, Z.(?;7/, reminiscences 275 
Mansell,JoJin, Henry Ill's 

Councillor ... 258 

Maze, the 304-5 

Offa, charter of 7,248 

Overflowed by the Thames... 252 
Pest Houses and the Plague 292- 

302 
Playground for Westminster 

School 306-311 

Produce 251, 252, 253 

Race-course at, supposed ... 270 
Rampart and battery in 287, 288 

Sanctuary rights 267 

Scottish prisoners in ... 289-92 
' Smithfield of Western Lon- 
don' 255 

vSeven Houses or Five Chim- 
neys, 253, 271, 273, 276-8, 297, 
302, 314, 316 
Snipe, in ...253,255,275,313 
Soil, nature of 1 3, 39, 25 1 , 370, 377 
Sports and pastimes, in 281 

{ct passim) 
Strange adventure, a ... 307-8 
Taking of gravel from 251, 305 

T/iorn Ey 248 

Tothill-fields prison 322 

Tothill-fields Trust 202, 220, 318 
Tournaments held in 251,256, 

257 

Trained bands, the 286-9 

Trials by battle, &c., in 259, 260, 
261-3, 543 



Tothill-fields — continued. 

' Up Fields ' 271,306 

' View' by High Bailiff of 

electors in 489-92 

Vincent-square, enclosure 

of 309-12 

Well's Bear-garden 269 

Wyatt's Insurrection 263 

Tothill-fields Bridewell ... 319-21 

Tothill-fields Prison 322 

Tothill-fields Trust 202, 220, 318, 

443 
Tower at south-west corner of 

Church 36, 50 

Towers, supposed reason of 

erection 39, 40 

Townshend Schools 230, 231, 443 

Trafalgar-square riots 487 

Trained bands, the 286-7, 288, 289 
Tramwa)' in Vauxhall-bridge- 

road 470 

Treasurers of parish 179 

Trevelyan, Rev. \V. B., M.A. 5, 236 

Trial of the fire-engine 141 

Trials by battle and ordeal 259-263 

543 

Tucker, Mr. T.J. 244 

Tufton-street 217, 270, 412, 461-9, 

527 
Turle, RcT. IV. H., M.A. 5, 1 17, 

235. 236 

Tiirtoft, Dean TJios 249 

Tuttle-in-the-Maze 304 

Twining, Rev. \V. H. G. ... 231 

Tyburn tickets 145 

Tyrconnell, Lord, on state of 
Westminster streets ... 201 

U 

United Vestry, reconstitution 206 
United Westminster almshouses 

407, 496-500, 540 
United Westminster schools 540 
Unlucky pinnacle, an ... 36, 50 
' Up Fields' 271, 306 

V 

Vandon, Cornelius 536-8 

Vanbrug/i, Sir Jolin 36, 37-8, 42 

Vaults ' 67 

Vauxhall-bridge 203, 344-6, 381-4 
Vauxhall-bridge-road 255, 316,319, 
370, 396, 469-71, 526 
Vauxhall-gardens 379-80, 387, 390 
Vestry, The — 

Instrument appointing ... 191-3 



Index. 



Vestr)', The — coiUinucd. 

Relations with St. Margaret's 

Vestry 194 

Powers and duties ... 194, 200 
Amendment Act of 1887 ... 

Vestry Clerks, list of 189 

Vidlcr, Mr. John 36 1 , 482 

'View' by High IJailiff in Tot- 
hill-fields" 489-92 

Villa, Rev. J., M. A 81 

Vincent, G. G 309, 313 

Vincent, Dr. IVilliain 86-7, 409, 

Vincent-square 309-12, 318, 397, 
471, 506 
Vincent-street, place, X'c. 311,318, 
397. 472 
\'ine cultivation in Westmin- 
ster 252, 422 

Vine-street 251,396,422 

Volunteer movement 146, 475-84 

W 

Wagers of battle 256, 259 

Wake, A7-chhisIiop 399 

Wake. Mr. Hall 62 

Walcfltt, Rc7'. Mackenzie E. C. 412 

Walcott-street 396,472 

I Wapshott, Thomas 462 

Wards, area of 

original five wards 

present three wards 

Warner, Rev. A. G., M.A. 5, 92, 

1 17, 225, 226 

Warwick-street 255, 313, 316, 396 



47 



543 
••• 337 
208-1 1 

48-9 



Water Ledger, the ... 

Watch, The' 

Water Mill, the Abbey 

Water supph' of parish 205, 346-7 

Watering of roads 205 

Well's Bear-garden 269 

Wesleyan Chapel, Horseferry- 

road 246 

Wesleyan Training College... 516 

Wesleys, the, in Westminster 415, 

428 
iWestern Dispensary 503 

S'estininster, Diikeof,K.G. 128,543 
estminster and Eton boat- 
races lyj 



Westminster and Lambeth Re- 
gatta 336 

Westminster r.ridgc ly:), 338, 343, 

50' 
Westminster District Ijoard of 

Works 206 

Westminster elections ... 488-94 
Westniinster Mechanics In- 
stitution 506, 509 

Westminster Nursing Com- 
mittee 504, 536 

Westminster Petty Sessions... 215 
Westminster Police Court 311, 505 
Westminster Technical P\ind 540 
Westminster Tobacco box 1 56, 

184-8 
Westminster \'olunteers 475-84 

Wheeler-street 473 

'White Horse and Bower,' the 418 
Whicher's Almshouses ... 17,540 
Whister's (Whitster's or Whist- 
ler's) ground 423 

IVigles'iuorth, Rev. J. L., M.A. 116 
Wilberforce, William ... 476, 481 
Wil cocks, Hi shop J. ... 120, 438 
Wild flowers in Tothill-fields 252 
Willes, Dr, Edward 34, 81-2, 542 
Wilkinson, Rev. B., M.A. ... 119 

Williams, William 370 

W-illow Walk, the 255, 271, 313, 

314,315, 316, 472 

Windmill in Tothill-fields ... 361 

Windows of Church 56, 58, 59, 66, 

147 
broken Ijy boys of West- 
minster School 32 

Wilton, Earl of 357,472 

Wilton-street 396, 472 

Wodsiuorth, Rev. C, M.A. ... 113 

Wood, Mr. J. 62 

Wood, Mr. J. Carter ... 509,528 
Wood-paving first laid in West- 
minster 217 

Wood-street 473 

Woollen, burial in 126 

Workhouse 459, 542 

Wright, Mr. Charles 543 

Wyatfs insurrection 263 



Zinzan, Mr 49 



( 



Acknoivlcdirments. 



LIST OF AUTHORS AND WORKS CONSULTED. 



" 'Tis all mine, and none mine. As a good housewife out of divers fleeces 
weaves one piece of cloth. ... I have collected this cento out of divers 
writers, and that sine injuria : I have wronged no authors, but given every 
man his own." — )!ukton. 



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Albemarle, Earl of, George T. Keppell. — Fifty Years of My Life, 1876. 

Allen, T. — Antiquities of London, 1828. 

Archer, J. Wykeham. — l^cstiges of Old L.ondon, iS^i. 

Atheniv Cantabrigienscs. 

Athenicum, The. 

Aubrey, John. — Jllisecllanies, 1696. 

Bailev, N. — Antiquities of London and Westminster, 1722. 

Baker, W. E. — Biographia Drainatica, 1782. 

Bardwell, \W-- JVest minster Lniprovcmcnts, 1839. 

Eeaconsfiekl, Lord. — Sybil ; or the Tzvo Nations. 

Bechmann, J. — LLislory of Inventions, 1S46. 

Biographia Britanniea. 

Bohn, H. CI. — Pietorial Handbook of London, 1854. 

Bosweir.s LJfe of Samuel Johnson. 

Boyer, A. — Reign of Queen Anne, 1722. 

Builder, The. 

Burnet, Bishop Gilbert. — History of his own LJfe and Times, 1723. 

Charity Commissioners' Reports. 

Census Commissioners' Reports. 

Chalmers, A. — Biographieal Dictionary, 1S12. 

Chamberlain's Co/npleat History and Snrvey of L.ondon and Westminster, 1769. 

Chetham and Camden Societies Publications. 

Chester, J. L. — Westminster Abbey Registers, 1876. 

Church Building Commission. — Parliamentary L\y.pers, 1S61. 

Civil War Tracts of Lancashire. 

Clarendon's History of England to 1767. 

Cobbett's Parliamentary History. 

Colburn's Calendar of Amusements. 

Colquhoun, Patrick, 'LL.'D. — lreatise on the Police of the Metropolis, 1796. 

Cooke, T. — Westminster L^ocal Directory, 1847. 

Culpeper, Nicholas. — Coinplete Herbal 1805 and 18 19. 

Cumberland, R. — Memorials of Himself 

Cunningham, V&\&x.— Modern London, 1851 ; Handbook for London, 1^0,9. 

Cushing's Dictionary of Lnitials and Pseudonyms, 1886-8. 

Debary, T.—LListory of the Church of England, i860. 

' Declared Accounts,' Public Record Office. 

Defoe, Daniel.— Journal of the Plague Year, ed : 1872. 

Dickens, C.—Our Mutual Friend, David Copperficld, and Sketches by Boz. 



List of AutJiors &c. consulted. xvii. 

Dicliouary of National Biography, 1885 to date. 

Dilke, Sir C. V^.—.lft'ii/oir of Mr. C. IF. Dilke, prefaced to Papers 
Critic, 1875. 

Dod's feerage. 

Evelyn, ].— Diary and Correspoudciicc. 

Fitzgerald, Percy. — Picturesque Loiidou, 1890. 

Forshall, F. H. — IVestiiiiitster .School, Past and Present, 1884. 

Forster, J. — Life of C. Churchill, 1855. 

Frost, T. — Old Shoivnien and London Fairs, 1881. 

General Advertiser, The. 

Gentleman^ s Magazine, 1732 to 1840. 

(j'^^hciViS Memoirs of My Life and Writings. 

Gilfillan, Vt.— Life of Churchill, 1880. 

Griffiths, Major.— iJ/t'wor/aA of Millbanh, 1884. 

Gwynn, J. — London and JVcst/ninster Improved, 1766. 

Hallam, H. — Constitutional History of England, 1857. 

Hare, A.J. C. — Walks in London, 1878. 

Hartridge Collection of Newspaper Cuttings (Guildhall Library). 

Hatton's A^fTc View of London, 1708. 

Heath, James. — A Brief Chronicle of the I^te Intestine Wars. . . . 1661. 
,, ,, England's Chronicle, 1689. 

Hodgson, C. — An Account of Queen Anne's Bounty, 1845. 

Holinshed, Raphael. — Chronicles of England, .Scotland, and Ireland, 1807-8. 

Holmes, T. — Vie^vs in London, Westminster, and their Vicinities. 

Hone, W. — Every Day Book, 1831 ; I'ahlc Book, 1864; Year Book, 1864. 

House of Commonsyi?//;7MA- 1709 to 1726. 

Howell, Jas. — Londinopolis, 1657 ; Epistolae Ho-Elianae, 1645-55. 

Hughes, S.-^I'reatise on Gas Works, 1853. 

Hughson, D. — Walks through London, ^c, 1817. 

Hunt, Leigh. — The Imvn. 

Hume, Smollett, and Hughes. — History of England. 

Hutton, L. — Literary Landmarks of London, 1885. 

Illustrated London Neii.<s. 

Institute of Civil Engineers. — Proceedings. 

Jesse, J. lleneage. — Jdterary and Historical Memorials of London, 1847. 
,, ,, London: Its Celebrated Characters, <src., 1871. 

Jones' Views in London, 1827-9. 

fournal of Education ,1885. 

King's I'amphlets : preserved at British Museum. 

Knight, Charles. — Cyclop<edia of London, 1833. 

,, ,, Pictorial Half-hours of London Topography, 185 1. 

Lambert, 15. — L.ondon and its Environs, 1806. 

Lamb, C. — Essays of Elia. 

Lennox, Lord W. I'itt. — Drafts on my Memory- Recreations of a Sports- 
man, 1862 ; Fifty Years Biographical Reminiscences, 1863. 

Local Go-'crnment in Westminster, published by the \'estry, 1889. 

Loftie, W, J.— .-/ History of London, 1883. 

London County Council.— ..l//'//«/6'.v and Reports. 

L.ondon and its Einlrons described, 1 76 1. 
'^.ondini Ulustrala, 18 1 9. 

L.ondon Journal, 1728. 

London .Magazine, 1 8 1 5 - 1 8 1 9. 



xviii. List of AutJiors &c. anisiilted. 

Macaulay, Lord. — History of England. 

Maitland, W., and Rev. J. Entick. — History of London, 1772. 

Malcolm, J. P. — Loiidininiu Rcdiviviint, 1802-7. 

Maskell, Rev. J- — ]\'cstiiiinsti-r in relation to Literature, 1S80. 

Mayhew, H. — Lalnuir an I t/ie London Poor, 1864. 

ALen of the Times. 

Metropolitan Board of Works, Minutes and Reports. 

Metropolitan Intproveinents, or London in the iqth Century, 1827-9. 

Minutes and Accounts of the two Vestries, Tothill-fields Trust, and I'aving 

Commissioners. 
Murray, J. — LLandhook of Modern L.ondon, 1879. 
Neale, J. P. — Westminster .Vd>ey, &^r., 1856. 

Nares, Archdeacon R. — Glossary illustrating English Authors, 1822. 
News, The, 1809-16. 

Nicholas, Sir N. H. — A Chronicle of London, from loSg to 14SJ. 
Nightingale, Rev. J. — Bcanties of England and Wales, Vol. 10, Continuation 

of Part 3 — City and LJberty of JVestn/inster. 
Northouck, John. — A A^e^v History of L.ondon, inelnding ]Vestminster and 

Southwark, 1773. 
Notes and Queries. 
Novello, Vincent. — LJfe of Pnreell. 
Old British Spy. 

Orders in Council (Ecclesiastical Commission), Vols. I.' V. IX. XV. 
Orridge, B. 'Q.— Citizens of London and their Kulers, 1867. 
Oxford and Cambridge Monthly Miseellany, 1750. 
Oxford Herald and Oxford Spy. 

Parochial Charities of Westminster, puljlished hy the ^^estry, 1890. 
Parish Magazines, various. 

Pearce, \N.— Ecclesiastical Principles and I\dity of Wesleyan Methodists, 1868. 
Pennant, T. — Some Account of London, 1791. 
Pepys, Samuel. — Diary and Correspondence. 
Phillimore, Charles Bagot.— .-^///w;// Wcstmonasterienses, 1852. 
L^ietas Londinensis, 17 14. 
Proceedings of the Upper and Lower Houses of Convocation, 1708-1728 

(Lambeth Library). 
Public General Statutes. 

Rayners London Adivning Advertiser, l^i^i. 
I\eliquia- Hearniana-, 1856. 
Ridgway, J. — (7(W (9/ I'homey Island, i860. 
Rimmer, Alfred.— .J/w/// England -adth I^iekens, 1883. 
Rose's Biographical Dictionary. 
Sayer, Edward.— CMcvr'TZ/Vv/.f .-;/ the ]\dice and Civil Government of West- 

minster, 1784. 
Select Viezus of London and its Environs, 1805. 
Seymour's 5w-zvy/ of London, 1735. 
Smith, J. T.— .^ Book for a Rainy I\iy, or Recollections, 1766—1833; 

Antiquities of Westminster, 1807; Vagahondiana, \%\-] ; Antiquarian 

Ramlde in the Streets of London, 1861 ; Nollekens and his Times, 1828 
Stanley, Arthur Penrhyn (Dean of Westminster), Historical Memorials of 

ll'estminster Abbey, 1876. 
spectator, The, and The Patler. 



List of Authors &c. consulted. xix. 

Stow, John. — Sun>ey of London, 1598. 

Sirun's S/>orL<: and /'asri/zu's. Ed. l)y W. Hone, 1845. 

Strype's S/oii', ed. 1720. 

Thorns, W. J. — Show's Survey, ed. 1842. 

Thornton, W. — London and Wcstniinstcr. . . . History, Description, 

and Survey, 1 784. 
Thornhury, W. — Haunted London, ed. 18S0. 
Timbs, John. — Romance of London, 1865 ; Curiosities of London and ll'est- 

miiisfer, 1867 ; London and Westminster .• strange events . . . of 

Metropolitan Life, 1868; No,>hs and Corners of Engiiih Life, 1867; 

Clubs and Club Life in London, with anecdotes of . . . Taverns, i^j2. 
Times, The, and the files of other London daily papers. 
Town Spy, The, 1725. 

Walcott, J. M. — Memorials of Westminster, 1849 and 1851. 
Walford, E — Old ani New London ; Londiniana, 1879. 
Weekly Journal, The, 1735. 
West London Press and other local newspapers. 
Westminster Poll-Book, 1818. 

Whitelocke, Sir Bulstrode. — Memorials of the English Affairs, 1862. 
VVidmore, R. — Inquiry into hirst J-'oundation of Westminster Abbey, 1751 ; 

History of the Church of St. Peter, 1751. 
Williams, F. — Memoirs and Correspondence of Disliop /-'.ancii Atterbury, 1S69. 
Wilmot's Queens of England. 
Wriothesley's Chronicle, 1485 — 1559. 

(The above List is by no means complete.) 




TO THE 

PARISHIONERS OF 

ST. MARGARET AND ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST 

WESTMINSTER 

AS REPRESENTED BY A HUNDRED GOOD MEN AND TRUE 

ELECTED AND UNITED AS A CORPORATE BODY 

FOR THE PURPOSES OF 

LOCAL SELF-GOVERNMENT- 
CUSTODIANS OF A PRICELESS HERITAGE — 
THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE HUMBLY DEDICATED 
BY ONE WHO (while WISHING THAT THE OFFERING WERE 

MORE WORTHY OF THEIR ACCEPTANCE) GRATEFULLY 

ACKNOWLEDGES THE UNWEARYING FORBEARANCE AND 

UNCHANGING KINDNESS 

WITH WHICH HIS OFFICIAL AND VOLUNTARY EFFORTS 

HAVE BEEN INVARIABLY RECEIVED 

DURING THE EIGHT YEARS HE HAS HAD THE HONOUR OF 

HOLDING THE RESPONSIBLE POSITION OF 

VESTRY CLERK. 

December, i8g2. 



Like April morning clouds, that pass, 

With varying shadow o'er the grass. 

And imitate on field and furrow. 

Life's chequered scene of joy and sorrow ; 

Like streamlet of the mountain north, 

Now in a torrent racing forth. 

Now winding slow its silver train, 

And almost slumbering on the plain ; 

Like breezes of the Autumn day. 

Whose voice inconstant, dies away, 

And ever swells again as fast. 

When the ear deems its murmur past ; 

Thus various my [historic] theme 

Flits, winds, or sinks, a morning dream. 

Yet pleased, our eye pursues the trace 

Of Light and Shade's inconstant race ; 

Pleased, views the rivulet afar. 

Weaving its maze irregular ; 

And pleased, we listen as the breeze 

Heaves its wild sigh through Autumn trees ; 

Then wild as cloud, or stream, or gale. 

Flow on, flow unconfined, my Tale ! 

SCOTJ'. 



PREFACE. 



Finding the pen, the paper, and the wax, 
These at command, and now invention lacks : 
This sentence serves, and that my hand outslrikes 
That pleaseth well, and this as much mislikes, 
I writBj indite, I point, erase, I quote, 
I interline, I blot, correct, I note." 

Dkayton. 

" Whoever thinks a faultless ' />ooi-' to see. 
Thinks what ne'er was, nor is, nor e'er shall be." 
Poi'E. 



Inimitable literary ability — " choice word and measured 
phrase above the reach of ordinary men " — have so freely 
been bestowed upon the chronicles of Westminster, that the 
critic's eye may be expected to turn eagerly to a simple 
effort to add a few further pages to its history. To allay 
any such avidity, let it be said at once that no pretence is 
here made to compete with the literary merit, the area 
surveyed, or the research accomplished, from which 
Smith's Antiquities (1807) or Walcott's Memorials (1849) 
may be said to have derived their value as standard works 
on Westminster. Nor is any attempt made to tell tales of 
distress and misery, of broken fortune and ruined hopes, of 
unrelieved wretchedness and successful knavery which the 
jiuthor of Sketches by Bo.-: associated with the two 
.words ' the pari.sh.' No highly coloured romance, no 
extraordinary adventure, no sanguinary battle, no brilliant 
^jiography will here be found. All that is attempted is a 
■;,are analectic and fragmentary epitome, gleaned for the 
jcvst part from the official records and other manuscrijits 
the small and comparatively unnoticed parish of St. 
!jin the Evangelist. But as we turn to these records and 



/ 



4 Preface. 

manuscripts, and supplement the extracts therefrom with a 

few items from publications now becoming rare — 

" A thousand fantasies 

Begin to throng into the memory, 

Of calHng shapes, and beckoning shadows dire, 

Of airy tongues that syllable men's names 

On sands and shores and desert wildernesses." 

Milton. 

Some of the facts here presented will probably be within 
the recollection of many an aged inhabitant, who happily 
survives in the enjoyment of a well-earned but modest 
retirement from commercial and administrative business. 
And if, as — 

To the sessions of sweet silent thought 

He summon up the remembrance of the past — 

Shaksi'Eare. 

he, and those who follow worthily in his footprints, find 
sufficient variety to impart interest or to excite an indul- 
gent excusal of many shortcomings and other imperfections, 
the author will have satisfaction in the thought that his 
pleasant relaxations by the light of the midnight oil have 
not been in vain. 

The numerous sources of information to which reference 
has been made being separately scheduled, there only 
remains the agreeable but bounden duty of acknowledging 
with sincere gratitude the courteous and valuable assistance 
cheerfully given by the undermentioned gentlemen : — 

Bishop, Michael Holman, Esq., Churchwarden, for 

access to the Registers, to the Church plate,. to 

the " Snuff Box," and to the records of the Infant 

School. 

Blackley, Rev. Canon, M.A., for information relating! 

to the Church and parish of St. James-the-Less. 
Cook, James, Esq., for statistics of the schools it 

parish. 
Cozens, Rev. W. R., D.D., for particulars concer 
Holy Trinity Church, Bessborough-gardens. 



fi 



Preface. 5 

Dickson, Rev. G. D. W., M.A., for memoranda relating 

to the Church and parish of St. James-the-Less. 
Elh'ot, John Lettsom, Esq., for personal reminiscences 

extending over more than eighty years. 
Ford, Francis, Esq., for access to printed records of the 

Architectural Museum. 
Hipwell, Daniel, Esq., for notes made at much 

personal labour from his valuable collection, upon 

the Rectors, the Curates, and the Lecturers from 

1728 to the present time. 
Hutchins, John P., Esq., for interesting items on the 

. parochial patriotism. 
Jones, Rev. Gustavus, M.A., for personal recollections 

of Archdeacon Jennings. 
Malone, Rev. Richard, M.A., for particulars relating to 

the Church and parish of St. Matthew. 
Margrie, Mr. James, for the loan of papers referring to 

St. John's Club. 
Miller, Rev. George, M.A., for information with respect 

to the Church and parish of Holy Trinity, Bess- 
borough-gardens. 
Miller, George Taverner, Esq., J. P., for personal 

recollections of his and his late father's church- 

wardenship of the parish. 
Oxley, Mr. W. E. Harland, for access to his valuable 

collection of newspaper cuttings. 
Poole, Mr. Henry E., for special facilities of reference 

to the contents of the Public Library. 
Reatchlous, H. A., Esq., M.A., B.Sc, for the loan of 

books and papers relating to the Wesleyan Training 

Institution. 
Safiford, A. H., Esq., for opportunities of perusing 

some of the early records of the Westminster 

Police Court. 
Tayton, Mr. Thomas Joseph, for personal remini- 
scences of the parish eighty years ago. 



6 Preface. 

Trevelyan, Rev. W; B., M.A., and 
Turle, Rev. W. H., M.A., for information with 
reference to the Church and parish of St. Matthew. 
Warner, Rev. A. G., M.A., for notes on the Church 
and parish of St. Mary-the- Virgin. 
The author also takes the opportunity of expressing his 
indebtedness to one of his official colleagues, Mr. G. P. W. 
Terry, for able assistance ungrudgingly given, at the 
sacrifice of much personal leisure, in the collection of 
materials, and generally in the production of the essay. 

Should the perusal of its pages present pleasure, or even 
information to the reader's view, he may perhaps call to 
mind Byron's conciliatory lines: — 

" We must not quarrel for a blot or two ; 
But pardon equally to books or men. 
The slips of human nature and the pen." 



i 




TJie ParisJi. 



Chapter I. 
THE PARISH. 



This is the place, .... 

Let me review the scene, 
And summon from the shadowy Past, 

The forms that once have been. 

Longfellow. 



Origin. — Instrument setting out boundaries. — Wards. — Plans. — Phy- 
sical and Geological Features. — Area. — Population. — Ecclesiastical 
Divisions. 



A UTHORITIES are divided as to the origin of the 
division of England into parishes. Some declare the 
institution to have had an ecclesiastical derivation, others 
that civil parishes existed long anterior to ecclesiastical 
distinctions, and were merely sub-divisions of the ancient 
hundred. By some the date of the institution of civil 
parishes is fixed at 1179, while others assert that it became 
general in the 9th and loth centuries, that legislation on 
the subject is to bi found in the laws of Edgar about 970, 
and that the parochial division followed, in a great measure, 
the civil distribution into manors. Apparently adopting 
this view, Walcott states that " Westminster was nothing 
more than a rural manor belonging to the Abbey, until its 
ecclesiastical lords constituted the whole to be one parish, 
that of St. Margaret ; of the boundaries of which the earliest 
notice we possess is in a charter of King Offa, A.D. 7S5-" 
Onwards from this early period for nearly a thousand years 
(until 1724) the ' terra incognita' we are about to perambu- 
late was comprised within the parish of the Virgin Martyr 
sii 
,.(.J Antioch. As we saunter fitfully within its limits, we 

rc^i/iall not be tempted to turn aside to explore any Roman 

.uviuli — nothing but a small coin, brought to light in the 

Jourse of some excavations in Marsham-strect, has been 



8 Rural Character. 

transmitted to us from that remote era — nor shall we be 
able to connect ' the parish ' with the Saxon day otherwise 
than by an incidental allusion to the ancient marsh of 
Tothill Fields as " Bulinga Fen " in the charter of King 
Edgar ; no Norman architecture will meet the eye, nor are 
there any Plantagenet traditions to interest us ; and there 
is but little to associate the locality with the Tudor period. 
The Stuart dynasty, before and after the Commonwealth, 
however, saw the gradual settlement of inhabitants along 
the river side, " the banck leading to the myll and the horse 
ferrie " southwards, and in Orchard-street as it stretched 
itself westward. The history of the parish is rather that of 
original development than of decay and restoration, for 
until the middle of the seventeenth century a few houses, 
two or three small farms where — 

" Deep fields of grain the reaper mowed, 

In meadows rich the heifers lowed ;" 

Scott. 

and a considerable area of low-lying, marshy land extended 
to that part of the parish of St. Martin-in-the-Fields which 
(since absorbed in St. George, Hanover Square) lay between 
Westminster and Chelsea. Swampy ground, hidden here 
and there by " the green mantle of the stagnant pool," 
existed in the part now known as Warwick-street, Churton- 
street, Charlwood-street, and the western end of Rochester- 
row, and patches of garden ground distinguished the cul- 
tivated from the generally waste character of the soil. On ' 
the site of the Gas Company's premises was Eldrick's 
nursery, which supplied the surrounding district with fruit 
and flowering shrubs, as the Abbey vineyard had supplied 
the monks in the olden time with many a vintage. 

One of the original vestrymen, appointed by the Com- \ 
missioners, was described as a * farmer '; Richard Ferrym? 
a farmer, of Horseferry Road, was elected 29th Decembl( ^ 
1736, and several persons were assessed for 'farms' ai^ '? " 
' fields ' in their occupation down to the first quarter of i\t f 
present century. 



Commissioners' Instrument. g 

Tothill Fields had but a few lonely cottages in their 
midst until 1810, when the commencement of the new 
bridge at Vauxhall cast the shadow of impending change. 
So partially disturbed, however, was this locality in 1820, 
that the tower of St. Luke's Church, Chelsea, then in course 
of erection, was clearly distinguishable from the back win- 
dows of the houses in Marsham-street. 

By an instrument enrolled in the High Court of Chancery 
on 8th January, 1724, " to describe and ascertain the bounds 
and limits of a new parish in the parish of St. Margaret, 
Westminster," the Commissioners appointed by King 
George I. to give effect to the Act of Queen Anne for the 
building of fifty new churches, directed that there should be 
a parish for the new church then about to be erected. They 
also "set out, ascertained and appointed the limits and 
bounds, district and division of the said new parish," which 
are thus described : — 

" The limits and bounds shall be and begin at and from the Parlia- 
ment Stairs at low water mark sixteen feet and a half to the North of 
the angle of Captain Tufnell's Wharf, and from thence running up to 
the middle of the gateway at the East end of the paved passage on the 
south of the Prince's Chamber, being the passage leading from the 
said Parliament Stairs into the Old Palace Yard, keeping the middle 
of the said passage all along into Old Palace Yard, about eight feet 
and a half past the corner of a house called the Old Star and Garter, 
fronting towards Old Palace Yard ; from thence turning square 
towards the South, and proceeding directly to the middle of the 
entrance into Dirty Lane, and from thence still keeping South all 
along the middle of Dirty Lane to a point in the middle of the 
entrance into College Street, then proceeding down the very middle 
of College Street Westward home to a street called the Bowling Alley, 
then crossing the said street about fifteen feet to the South of the Old 
Stone Gateway and turning square to the South for about twenty feet, 
and then square to the West into a passage on the South on the 
Rainbow Alehouse, in the possession of Mr. Figg, and from thence 
jkeeping the middle of the said passage to the West, home to the East 
side of Smith Street, then crossing the said street in a direct line 
towards the North end into Stable Yard, keeping the middle of the 
Sjaid yard going Westward to the East end of Orchard Street, between 
file house of Mr. Wisdom and the house of Mr. Gooden, then adjoin- 
ing into the Channel or Denter Stone in the middle of Orchard Street, 
Keeping the middle of the said street Westward home to the middle of 

7 



lo ComJiiissioners Instrmiient. 

the entrance turning into New Pye Street, leading into Old Pye 
Street, unto the middle of the channel of Old Pye Street opposite to a 
street called Perkin's Rents, thence going up the middle of the said 
street towards the West, home to the East side of Duck Lane, then 
crossing the said lane into the middle of Pear Street and keeping 
Westward directly across Straton Ground, between the house on the 
North in possession of Mr. Bill, and the house on the South in posses- 
sion of Mr. Lloyd straight to the East door of the Military Ground, 
then crossing the Military Ground to the West door of the said Ground 
into the common highway about three feet from thence, turning to the 
South, keeping all along by the wall of the Military Ground up to the 
South-west angle of the said ground, thence crossing oblicjuely to the 
angle of the rails of the Green Coat Hospital, keeping by the East side 
of the said rails, thence crossing by the West end of the gardens of 
Hill's Almshouses directly to a footway commonly called the Willow 
Walk, near the Feathers Alehouse, in the possession of Mr. Keys, 
excluding the said house ; and from thence along the footway West- 
ward to the Willow Walk Bridge, which is accounted the old boundary 
of St. Margaret's parish, and so Southward along the common sewer 
and King's Scholars' Pond, which as is supposed doth or did divide the 
two parishes of St. Margaret and St. Martin-in-the-Fields in Middlesex, 
down to the North side of the river of Thames to the low water mark, 
and thence along to the said shore or beach to the angde or point near 
Captain Tufnell's Wharf before mentioned, and there ending where 
this description first began ; and the limits and bounds so described 
shall be the limits and bounds of the said new parish, on the respective 
* thereof abutting as aforesaid ; and that all the houses 
being in number eight hundred and fifty or thereabouts, and all the 
buildings, grounds, and hereditaments, situate, lying, and being within 
the limits and bounds aforesaid (which are more plainly described by 
the several red lines in the scheme or ground plot hereto annexed) 
shall be the district and division of and for the said new church." 

Adopting modern nomenclature, the boundaries may more 
briefly be described as commencing at Parliament-stairs, 
crossing Abingdon-street, passing along the centre of 
Great College-street and the south side of Dean's-yard, 
crossing Great Smith-street into Orchard-street, thence 
through Pear-street, thence crossing Strutton-ground, fol- 
lowing an oblique north-westerly line and crossing Victoria- 
street to a point marked in the footway fronting Palmer' 
passage. Hence the line re-crosses the street and pursu^ ' 
its course along Artillery-row, Cobourg-row, Buckinghari «-' 
cottages, crossing Vauxhall Bridge-road at the intersectioj 
of Rochester-row and Warwick-street, to the crown of th 
* Blank in original copy. 



Original Wards. i .i 

King's Scholars' Pond sewer beneath the centre of Tach- 
brook-street, along which it is drawn through the Gas Light 
and Coke Company's Works in Bessborough-street to the 
foreshore of the river opposite Nine Elms, there turning in 
a north-easterly direction and proceeding beneath the cen- 
tre arches of Vauxhall and Lambeth Bridges to a point 
opposite Parliament-stairs. 

At the constitution of the parish there were five wards 
or divisions wholly or partly within its bounds,* viz.: — 

Part of Palace Yard Ward, including Parliament Stairs, Lindsey's 
Lane or Dirty Lane, Abingdon Buildnigs, and part of College Street. 

Part of Deanery Ward, including Smith Street and part of Stable 
Yard. 

Part of Sanctuary W^ard, including Bowling Alley, Oliver's Court, and 
part of College Street. 

Millbank Ward, including Piper's Ground, Black Dog Alley, Horse- 
ferry Bank, Garden Grounds, Grosvenor Street, and therein Wisdom 
Alley, Market Street, and therein Goodchild Alley, Horseferry Road, 
and therein Garden Ground, Marsham's Street, and therein Blood 
(^rounds, Hearn Court, and therein Lumley Street, Tufton Street, 
Vine Street, Campion Alley, Millbank, Church Street, Smith's Square, 
North Street, Wood Street, Cowley Street, Barton Street, Inglish's 
Wharf, French's Wharf, Killham's Wharf, Mackrifif's Wharf, Prat's 
Wharf, Bell Wharf, Crooked Billet Wliarf, Tapping's Wharf, Gray's 
Wharf, Catchcart's W^harf, Norris's Wharf, and Meal Wharf 

Peter Street Division, including Great St. Ann's Lane, Jones's Court, 
and Pipe-makers' Alley ; part of Orchard Street ; part of New Pyc 
Street ; part of Old Pye Street, Little St. Ann's Lane, and Parker's 
Rents, part of Duck Lane, part of Pear Street, part of Artillery Ground 
and Artillery Wall, part of Strutton Ground, Peter Street, Leg Court, 
Laundry Yard, Providence Court, Whister's Ground, part of Adam-a- 
digging Yard, Tothill Fields, and, Rochester Row. 

For purposes of civil administration the parish was 

divided, under the provisions of the Metropolis Local 

Management Act of 1855, into three Wards, which are 

thus described by Mr. George Baugh Allen, Barrister-at- 

Law, the Commissioner appointed by Sir George Grey, 

let 

' j^e Home Secretary, to set them out : — 

^toWard No. i. — All such parts of * the Parish of St. John the 
Ssrvangelist, Westminster, as lie west of a line commencing at the point 
f^i the south-western boundary of the said Parish opposite the middle 

j * Seymour's Survey, Vol. IL , 1735. 



12 Present Wards. 

of Moreton Street, and drawn thence in a north-easterly direction 
along the middle of Moreton Street, to and along the middle of 
Chapter Street to the middle of Regency Street, and northwards along 
the middle of Regency Street to the middle of the Horseferry Road, 
and northward along the middle of such road and along the middle of 
Strutton Ground to the north boundary of the said Parish at the point 
at which the same crosses the middle of Strutton Ground. 

Ward No. 2.— All such parts of the said Parish as are bounded as 
follows (that is to say) : — 

Bounded towards the north by the boundary line dividing the said 
Parish of St. John the Evangelist from the Parish of St. Margaret, 
Westminster, from the point at which the same crosses the middle of 
Strutton Ground to the eastern extremity of the said boundary line in 
he River Thames. 

Bounded towards the west by the boundary line of Ward No. i, 
hereinbefore described, from the point at which the parish boundary 
crosses the middle of Strutton Ground to the point in the middle of 
Regency Street opposite the middle of Page Street. 

Bounded towards the south by a line drawn from the last-mentioned 
point to and along the middle of Page Street to its eastern end, from 
thence east to the eastern boundary of the said parish in the River 
Thames. 

Bounded towards the east by that part of the parish boundary in the 
River Thames lying between the eastern extremities of the southern 
and northern boundaries of the said Ward No. 2, hereinbefore 
described. 

Ward No. 3. — All parts of the said Parish of St. John the 
Evangelist which are not included and described in the Wards Nos. i 
and 2. 

A reduced facsimile of the plan to which reference i.s 
made in the Instrument of the Commissioners of 1724 has 
been made expressly for incorporation herein, and is placed 
opposite a modern map of the parish, corrected as nearly 
as possible to date, and showing the sub-division into 
Wards. 

In the excavations for the foundations of the Victoria 
Tower, at the south end of the Houses of Parliament, the 
workmen came upon thick layers of peaty soil. A similar dis- 
covery was made during the preparations for the constructio 
of Millbank Prison, which was erected on such "shiftini l^i 
sand " as to necessitate an exceptionally costly foundatic( 
of piles and concrete. These experiences confirm th| 
assertion of an engineer who was extensively engaged ii' 



\ji 



.w 



to 




Reduced copy of the plan of the Parish referred to i?i the Instrument of ly^. ^ 

(See page lo.) H 




Plan of the Parish in i8g2, sho7ving the Wards as set out in iSf.^^. 



Subsoil and level. 1 3 

connection with excavations for the sewerage system of 
Westminster, nearly half a century ago, that beneath the 
surface soil in many parts of the parish was to be found 
evidence that before any artificial obstructions or drainage 
existed the storm waters carried with them towards the 
river enormous quantities of sand, which now forms a thick 
stratum underlying a great part, if not the whole of the 
parish. Mr. Ridgway, in his Gem of TJiorney Island^ 
(i860), says that from the hills of Highgate and Hampstead 
" the ground declined more gently until it subsided into a 
deep morass, extending over the whole of that fashionable 
locality known to us as the aristocratic Belgravia. Between 
this barren waste and the river lay a still more hopeless 
marsh." These views are borne out by a report presented 
to the Metropolitan Commissioners of Sewers in 1848. From 
this it appears that " the ground forming the present surface 
is artificial to a depth of from four to eight feet, partly the 
accumulation of ages," and partly, it may be added, by the 
deposit of a portion of the soil excavated in the formation 
of St. Katharine's Docks, whence it was conveyed in enormous 
quantities by water to Millbank. "The subsoil is composed 
of a layer of vegetable earth of a peaty nature, beneath 
which, to a depth of about 40 feet, to the blue clay forma- 
tion, it is sand intermixed with gravel. This thick bed of 
sand," continues the Commissioners' Report, "from its 
permeability, is constantly charged with a large quantity 
of water which, being acted upon by the pressure of the 
tide, rises and falls somewhat with it." A large portion of 
the parish is only slightly above the level of high tide; 
much lies below it. Millbank street is said to be four feet 
four inches above high water mark, Old Pye street five-and- 
a-half inches above, and the vicinity of Cobourg row just 
twelve inches below that standard. 

In superficial area Ward No. i is .58 acres; Ward No. 2, 
d'j acres; and Ward No. 3, 86 acres; the whole area being 
rather less than a third of a mile. The exact measurement, 



1 4 Population. 

211 acres, corresponds with that of St. Margaret's parish 
and the Close of St. Peter, exckisive of Knightsbridge. 

At the constitution of the parish in 1724 the number of 
houses was computed to be 850, the estimated population \ 
at the time being 4,2 50; the Census Commissioners' Reports 
furnish the followine fieures: — I 



Census. 


Inhabited 


Population 


— 


Houses. 


— 


I8OI 


1,261 


8,375 


I8II 


* 1,407 


10,615 


I82I 


2,089 


16,835 


I 83 I 


2,807 


22,648 


I 841 


3,073 


26,223 


I85I 


3,503 


34,295 


I86I 


3,723 


37,483 


I87I 


3,715 


38,478 


I88I 


3,610 


35,496 


I89I 


3,867 


34,092 



In 1724 the number of houses and persons to each acre 
was slightly over 4 and 20 respectively; in 1891 it was 18 
and 162. The decrease which took place between 1871 and 
1 88 1 was caused by the demolition of many small houses in 
the overcrowded neighbourhood of Orchard-street and 
Old Pye-street, under an Order of the Home Secretary, 
and the erection, on the site, of a tnuch larger number of 
so-called "model dwellings." A reliable calculation of the 
average number of persons resident in each house cannot 
be made, inasmuch as the Census Returns for 1891, by way 
of example, put the number of inhabited houses at 3,867, 
while the parish rate books give the number of assessments 
at 4,717. It will be observed, however, that during the last 
ten years the houses increased by 257, while the population 
decreased by 1,404. 

In addition to the sub-division into Wards for civil pur- 

* Mr. Walcott's statement that the parish contained i,6oo houses in 1735 
appears to have been made on the authority of Seymour's survey. 



Ecclesiastical Siib-divisioiis. i 5 

poses, there are five ecclesiastical districts, not includini^ 
that reserved to the parish church, viz. : — St. Mary the 
Virgin, Tothill-ficlds, Holy Trinity, Bessborough-gardens, 
' St. Matthew, Great Peter-street, St. Stephen, Rochester- 
^ row, and St. James-the-Less, Upper Garden-street. The 
reader will be asked to take a passing glance at each of 
these districts and churches in the course of his ramble 
round the parish. On the way to our starting point, which 
will be at the parish church, we may recall Sir Roger de 
1 Coverley's observation in one of his water journeys from 
the Temple Stairs to the Spring Gardens, Vauxhall, he 
having, as usual, engaged a waterman with a wooden 
leg.* After a short pause the old knight turned his head 
I to take a survey of the great Metropolis and bade his com- 
panion observe how thickly the City was set with 
churches, while there was scarcely a single steeple on this 
^ side of Temple Bar. "A most heartrending sight," said Sir 
I Roger, " there is no religion at this end of the town. The 
fifty new churches will much mend the prospect ; but 
church work is slow, church work is slow." 

* " You must know," said Sir Roger, " I never make use of anybody to row 
me that has not either lost a leg i>r an arm. I would rather bate him a few 
strokes of his oar than not employ an honest man that has been wounded in 
the (Queen's service. If I was a lord or a bishop, and kept a barge, I would 
not put a fellow in my livery that had not a wooden leg." 




/i 



1 6 TJic CJiurch. 



Chapter II. 
THE CHURCH. 



I 



' What is a Church ' '? Our honest sexton tells 

' 'Tis a tall building, with its tower and bells ; 

' Where priest and clerk, with joint exertion strive 

' To keep the ardour of their flock alive ; 

' That, by his periods eloquent and grave ; 

' This, by responses and a well-set stave ' : 

'Tis to this Church I call thee, and that place 

Where slept our fathers when they'd run their race." 

Crabbe, 

" Then I remembered 'twas the Sabbath day. 

Immediately a wish arose in my mind 

To go to church and pray with Christian people. 

• • • 

So entering in, not without fear, 
I passed into the family pew. 
And covering up my eyes for shame. 
And deep perception of unworthiness. 
Upon the little hassock knelt me down 
Where I so oft had kneeled." 

Lamb. 



Enquiry by Royal Commission- -Purchase of Site — Date and Cost o^ 
Erection — Consecration — Ornaments — Destruction by Fire — Resi 

L toration — Sir John Vanbrugh and Thomas Archer — Various Opin- 
ions on Architecture— Services— Organ— Damage by Lightning- 
Internal Restoration and Alteration— the Church Plate— Windows 
— Monuments and Inscriptions — Clock — Vaults. 



A RRIVED, as by gravitation, at the one edifice m 
which every parishioner may be said to have a 
sacred interest, we pause before entering, not to ask 
the date of its foundation, nor to comment on the source! 
where the cost was provided. These give rise to no uncer- 
tain speculations ; they are ' public property.' Rather we 
pause to reflect upon the circumstances which led to the 
erection of a church, with a civil parish, within the smah^ 
area (422 acres, exclusive of Knightsbridge), over which the 
mother parish and the precincts of the Abbey extended. 
Who advised the choice of a site so near the mother church ?( 
What was the condition of the parish that such a division,: 



Church acconiniodation. 1/ 

was rendered necessary ? To the first of these questions an 
answer, ready to hand, is given hereafter ; but a dih'gent 
search among the records, aided by the courteous assistance 
of the Hbrarians at Lambeth Palace, at the Record Office, at 
the House of Commons, at the Privy Council Office, at the 
Diocesan Registry and elsewhere, has failed to supply an 
answer to the second. The report of the Royal Commis- 
sion, whose labours will be referred to presently, appointed 
to enquire in what parishes new churches were necessary, is 
not accessible ; but the possibility of the Commission 
having adopted the suggestions of Convocation is not over- 
looked. 

In the parish church of St. Margaret, the accommoda- 
tion had, at this time (1708), only recently been enlarged 
by the construction of Sir John Cutler's gallery ; there 
was near at hand the Broadway Chapel (now Christ 
Church) with more than 1,000 seats, easy of access to the 
parishioners living in and about Strutton-ground, Peter- 
street, Orchard-street, and Pye-street. Besides this the 
Duke-street Chapel and the Queen-square Chapel were 
newly available for public worship, while the smaller 
! chapels of Emanuel Hospital, Emer}^ Hill's Almshouses, 
the Grey Coat Hospital, Whicher's Almshouses and 
I Palmer's Almshouses, by meeting the requirements of the 
' inmates, relieved to a corresponding degree the pressure on 
the space in the mother church and the Broadway Chapel. 
At first sight we might be inclined to conclude that these 
' two spacious edifices were equal to the parochial needs ; but 
I it is only necessary to say that the population of the mother 
I parish was estimated at 16,000 souls. 

Reluctantly abandoning the search for information re- 

I lating directly to the moral and spiritual condition of 

1 Westminster, wc find abundant evidence relating to the 

Metropolis generally which, in the absence of an\' alhisioii 

to exce[)tional circumslanccs, may be taken as app!}-iiig to 

Westminster. 



1 8 Ecclesiastical disagreements. 

The opening of the eighteenth century found the more 
prominent Divines much engaged in controversy and debate, 
with jealousy and disagreement prevaiHng between the 
Upper and Lower Houses of Convocation. As a conse- 
quence, the religious habits of the people became relaxed 
and presented an unedifying spectacle. Nevertheless, the 
period was not wholly without more cheerful signs in the 
foundation of the Society for the Diffusion of Christian 
Knowledge and the Society for the Propagation of the 
Gospel in Foreign Parts ; and Addison* bears witness to 
the institution of charity schools at this time, and applauds 
it as one of the greatest instances of public spirit the age 
had produced. The encouragement and liberal assistance 
given by the Queen in relinquishing her claim to the tenths 
and first fruits, while it had a great effect on the minds of 
her subjects,-j- did not allay a widespread uneasiness and 
murmuring that the established religion of the people was 
in great danger. On the contrary, this uneasiness was 
fanned into active excitement by the publication of a 
pamphlet;j:, which would now be permitted to run its course, 
but which was then publicly burned before the Royal 
Exchange. 

The debates in Parliament showed a singular mixture of 
politics and religion, which was by no means ameliorated 



* Spectator, No. 294. 

t See Hodgson's Accotait of Queen Antii s Bounty, and Wilmot's Queens of 
Ejigland, from the latter of which the following is quoted : — 

" The liberality of the Sovereign towards the Established Church goes far to account for 
the extraordinary veneration in which the donor of Queen Anne's Bounty was held long after 
her death. Her Majesty, on her accession, was entitled to the first-fruits and tenths of every 
benefice or dignity conferred by the Crown. With praiseworthy self-denial, Anne, instead of 
appropriating these gains to the amplification of her personal power or magnificence, formed 
with the money a fund to augment the miserable stipends which often fall to the lot of the 
most excellent of our clergy, and it has been carrymg on its good work from that day to this. 
. . The extent of Anne's privy purse charity was unknown till after her death, for she gave 
without ostentation, and no flatterers were employed to trumpet her goodness. If she was 
frugal, it was to enable her to be generous, and all she could spare was returned to the people 
as her right. All this was done without anything that looked like sordid saving— no retrench- 
ing her servants at their tables, allowances or perquisites ; the hospitality within doors was 
equal to the charity without." 

+ " A Memorial of the Church of England." The Queen issued a prcjclama- 
tion offering ^1,000 reward fur the discovery of the author, but without success. 



Sacheverell, A tterbury. 1 9 

by a sermon preached before the Lord Mayor by Dr. 
Henry Sacheverell, Chaplain of St. Saviour'.s, Southwark, 
of which 40,000 copies were sold, nor by his impeachment 
before the House of Commons. The trial and the riots 
connected with it had their effect upon the public mind, 
and exercised an immediate influence on the new Parlia- 
ment and on Convocation, which met on the same day. 
Wordsworth thus refers to the state of public feeling at 

this time : — 

" Fears, true or feigned, 
Spread through all ranks ; and lo I the sentinel 
Who loudest rang his pulpit larum bell. 
Stands at the bar. 

High and Low, 
Watchwords of party, on all tongues are rife ; 

As if a Church, though sprung from Heaven, must owe 
To opposites and fierce extremes her life — 

Not to the golden mean, and quiet flow 
Of truths that soften hatred, temper strife." 

Amongst the many matters recommended by the Queen 
for the consideration of Convocation was the drawing-up of 
a representation on the state of religion, with regard to the 
excessive growth of infidelity, heresy and profancness. A 
statement was accordingly drafted by Dr. Atterbury, Dean 
of Carlisle,* who had been elected Prolocutor in preference 
to the nominee of the Archbishop. It reviewed at great 
length the license of the press, the frauds of pagan and 
popish priests, the selling of mock catechisms in the streets, 
the ill-effects of the revolution of 1688, the profaneness and 
licentiousness of the stage, and the gradual defection from 
piety and virtue to irreligious ignorance. After prolonged 
deliberation, the statement was adopted by the Lower 
House as answering the purpose intended by the Queen ; 
but the Bishops rejected it as magnifying the grievances 
and corruptions of the day. A counter representation 
agreed upon by the Upper House was discarded by the 
Clergy, and finally nothing was determined upon. 

* Atterljviry was not installed in the Deanery of Westminster until 1713. 

15 2 



5o Queen An?ie intervened. 

In a letter addressed to Convocation by the Queen* her 
Majesty writes : " It is with great grief of Heart Wee ob- 
" serve the scandalous Attempts which of late Years have 
" been made to infect the minds of our Good Subjects by 
" loose and prophane Principals openly scattered and pro- 
" pagated among them. Wee think the consultations of the 
" Clergy particularly requisite to repress these daring At- 
" tempts and to prevent the like for the future." The letter 
goes on to express a hope that the Queen's good inter - 
tions in that behalf " may not be defeated by any unrea- 
" sonable disputes between the two Houses of Convocation 
" about unnecessary Forms and Methods of proceeding." 
In a subsequent letter the Queen writes " I have done my 
" part, and expect that you will lay aside what may hinder 
" the good effect of my license, and apply yourselves heartily 
to those weighty matters." 

An active participator in these proceedings was Dr. 
Onley, Prebendary of St. Peter's, and for more than twenty 
years Minister-|- of St. Margaret's. To his life-long con- 
nection with Westminster (he had been educated at West- 
minster School), and to his watchful interest and foresight, 
may probably be attributed the benefit Westminster derived 
from the accidental extrication from the deadlock just 
described. 

A violent storm, which occurred on the 28th November, 
17 10, caused much damage to property in London and the 
suburbs. The parish of Greenwich suffered by the total 
destruction of the church, already, by its ruinous condition, 
an easy prey for the hurricane. The inhabitants thereupon 

* Proceedings of the Lower House of Convocation, 1710 — 11. M.S. Lib. 
II, fo. 5 — 7, Lambeth Palace Library. 

t The Rectory of the parish vested in the Dean and Chapter. Nicholas 
Onley became a Westminster scholar through a singular accident. His father 
was the porter at a tavern in the Strand, and was one day sent on an 
errand by a gentleman of good family and fortune of the same name as himself- 
Struck by this coincidence, and pleased with the old man's appearance, the 
gentleman adopted young Nichcjlas, the porter's only son, sent him to school 
and left him his fortune. Dr. Onley died Septemlier 2Sth, 1724, aged 84. ■ 



Parliamentary enquiry. 2i 

petitioned Parliament for assistance to rebuild. In dealing 
with this petition the House took the opportunity of 
enquiring into the general subject of church accommoda- 
tion in the Metropolis, and were informed that the London 
churches, though numerous, were, with few exceptions, 
exceedingly small, and rather resembled village churches 
than such as were adapted to the rapidly growing popula- 
tion of a city like London. It was also asserted that in the 
suburbs there were 200,000 persons more than could 
possibly find accommodation in the existing churches. 
The House of Commons immediately appointed a Com- 
mittee, by whom the proffered co-operation of Convocation 
was readily accepted.* The Queen also sent a special 
message to Parliament on 29th March, 1 7 1 1 : — 
Anne R. 

Her Majesty having received an Address from the archbishop, 
bishops, and clergy of the province of Canterbury, in Convocation 
assembled, to recommend to the Parliament the great and necessary 
work of building more Churches within the Bills of Mortality, is 
graciously pleased to approve so good and pious a design ; and docs 
accordingly very heartily recommend the carrying on the same, to this 
House, particularly in and about the cities of London and West- 
minster ; and does not doubt but effectual care will be taken in this 
matter, which may be so much to the advantage of the Protestant 
religion, and the firmer establishment of the Church of England. 

On the 6th April a report was presented by the Com- 
mittee, " that in the several parishes in and about the 
suburbs of the cities of London and Westminster fifty new 
churches are necessary, .... computing 4,750 souls to 
each church." The report having been referred to a Com- 
mittee of the whole House, and considered, the Speaker, 
with the House, waited on the Queen at St. James's, on 9th 
April, with the following address : — 

Most Gracious Sovereign, — We, your Majesty's most dutiful and 
loyal subjects, the Commons of Great Britain in Parliament assembled, 
have, with the utmost satisfaction, received your Majesty's gracious 
message, recommending to us the great and necessary work of building 
fifty new churches in and about the Cities of London and Westminster. 

* Cobbett. Parliamentary History, vol. vi. Burnet. Hist, of His Own 
Time, vols, v, and vi. Boyer Keigit of Queen Anne. 



22 Cotmnission appointed. 

We are sensible how much the want of them hath contributed to the 
increase of Schism and Irreligion, and shall not therefore fail to do 
our parts towards the supplying that defect, being entirely disposed to 
promote everything that is for the interest of the established Church, 
and the honour of your Majesty's reign. Neither the long expensive 
War in which we are engaged, nor the pressure of heavy debts under 
which we labour, shall hinder us from granting to your Majesty what- 
ever is necessary to accomphsh so excellent a design, which we hope 
may be a means of drawing down blessings from heaven on all your 
Majesty's other undertakings, as it adds to the number of those places 
where the prayers of your devout and faithful subjects will be daily 
offered up to God, for the prosperity of your Majesty's government at 
home, and the success of your arms abroad." 

The piety and liberality of the vote of Parliament is said 
to have given great public satisfaction. The Act (9 Anne, 
cap. 22), which was passed to give effect to the vote, im- 
posed duties upon coals and culm brought into the Port of 
London, and directed that the income therefrom be applied 
for the building of fifty new churches, for the purchase of 
sites, and for the provision of church-yards and burial 
places in or near the cities of London and Westminster, or 
the suburbs thereof The Act also empowered the Queen 
to appoint Commissioners to enquire in what parishes new 
churches were necessary, and to report to the Queen and 
to Parliament before 24th December, 171 1 ; but no provi- 
sion was made for the formation of new parishes. In its 
enthusiasm, Parliament had under-estimated the time in 
which the Commission would be able to complete its 
enquiry and agree upon its report. Another Act was 
therefore passed in the following year (10 Anne, cap. 1 1), to 
enlarge the time and extend the powers previously granted. 

The Commission did not, however, await this further 
legislation before setting about their trust in earnest, for on 
the 4th October, 171 1, they addressed a letter to the Vestry 
of St. Margaret, intimating their desire " to proceed in see 
Useful and Pious a Work with all possible expedition," and 
calling for a return of the number of inhabitants, and of 
suitable sites for a church and church}'ard, also enquiring 
whether there were any chapels within the parish fit to be 



\ 



Statement by St. Margarets Vestry. 23 

made parish churches. The aid of the Burgesses and their 
Assistants was at once invoked in obtaining an enume- 
ration of the residents within the different wards ; but 
before this could be completed, and within a month from 
the date of their first letter, the Commission complained of 
the delay, and pressed for an immediate answer. This the 
Vestry agreed upon without delay : — 

To the Most Rev^- Father in God Thomas Lord Archbishop of 
Canterbury and the rest of the Hon''ie Com''s appointed by her 
Matie Pursuant to a late Act of Parliam' (Intituled an Act fo'r 
granting to her Matie severall Duties upon Coals for Building 
50 New Churches in and about the Cities of London and 
Westminster). 

The Representacon of the Minister Churchwardens and Vestry of 
the Parish of St. Marg" Westm"- in the County of Midd'" in 
Answer to a Letter Rccd. bearing Date the 4th of Octob"" 171 1. 

That the Number of Souls in the Parish of St. Marg" Westm'' as 
near as can be Computed is about Twenty Thousand. 

That the Condicon of the Inhabitants is such that the Rates with 
other monys allotted to the maintenance of the poor amount at 
this time to Three Thousand pounds p. ann. & is still likely to 
encrease. 

That in sev" of the out parts of the sd Parish there are great 
number of Poor people which will make it very difficult to allow 
due proporcons of the Poor and Rich in case it shall be thought 
fit to erect any new Parish or Parishes within the said Parish 
of St. Marg" Westminster. 

That there is a peece of Ground of about Seaven Acres near Milbank 
in the said Parish which is freehold and the Estate of Henry 
Smith Esqt'e who has Declared his willingness to Dispose of 
an acre and a Quarter of the said Ground for the sume of Five 
hundred Pounds. 

That there is alsoe another peece of Ground at the end of Marsham 
Street being the Freehold Estate of vSir Robert Marsham, Bair 
Containing about an Acre fit for the same use, which (nound 
Sr Robert has sent word to the Vestry he is willing to part with 
but he being not in Town the Vestry dont know the price 
thereof 

There is in the said Parish one Church commonly Called the New 
Chappcll which holds upwards of 1200 People & in our Judg- 
ment the said Chappell is fit to be made Parochial. 



24 Purdiase of site. 

That there are Two other Chappells one in or near Queen Square 
& the other in Duke Street, neither of which in our Judgments 
are fit to be made Parochial. 

Cha : Battely, Thomas Bhssett, Tho : Wisdome, 
Edward Tufnell, Sam" Brown, Emery Arguis, 
Geo : Mortimer, Robert Jeffes, Edward CHft, 

NICHO. ONLEY, D.D. 
JAMES HUNTER, "^ Church 
[Copie.] RICHD- FILER, > Wardens. 

It is desired by this Vestry that the Rev^ D'' Nicho: Onley with 
the Churchwardens wait on the said Com""^ & p'sent the said 
Representacon. 

On 1st June, 1713, a contract for sale and purchase of a 
parcel of ground was executed between Henry Smith, 
Treasurer to the Commissioners, John Lowndes, Secre- 
tary to the Treasury, and the Commissioners, for 
the sum of £yoo, which included sufficient land to 
form a new street, forty-five feet wide, to com- 
municate with Millbank-street, and an additional 
plot for the erection of a house for the minister 
of the intended new church. Seymour's Survey (1735) 
states that the church was commenced in 1721 ; but the 
" Declared Accounts " in the Public Record Office show 
that nearly ten thousand pounds had been paid to the 
builders before December, 171 5. 

The items relating to St. John's Church have been 
extracted for insertion here : — 

Cost of the Building of St. John's Church ; 

Extracted from the Declared Accounts of the Treasurers of the 
Fu7tdfor building ffty New Churches in London and West- 
minster, 1712 — 1 7 41 J Audit Office, Bundles 4jy, 4jS, &= 4jp, 
preserved at the Public Record Office. 

Bundle 437, Roll i (10 July 1712 — 25 Mar 1714. H. Smith, Treasurer). 

Henry Smith, Esq, for a piece of Ground for ye Scite of 
a Church & Ministers House Situate in ye Pish 
of S' Margts Westm^ in ye County of Midd^ as by c 

like Warrt and the Agte of the said Mr. Smith ... vij//. 



Pay incuts to Imildcrs. 2$ 

* More to ye s^ Thos Hues and Wf" Tuffnell, Brick- 
layers, employ'd to Build the New Church erecting 
wti^in the parish of St. Margarett, Westminster 
being p'^ & advanced to them by way of Imp^' for ye 
sd Service by a like Warr' dated the xi'h of Nov- 
emb"" 17 1 3 as by the sd Warr' & their Receipts ... viij//. 

Roll 2 (25 Mar. 1714 — 9 Dec. 1715. H. Smith, Treasurer). 

Samuel Wood, Watchman, employed at the New Church 
erecting in the parish of St. Margarett, Westminster. 
By like Warrant and Acquittance ... ... xxxiiij//. vij. 

More to the said Thomas Hues and William TufifncU, 
Bricklayers, employed to Build the New Church 
erecting within the Parish of St Margarett West- 
minster being paid and advanced to them by way of 
Imprest for the said Service by a like Warrant dated 
xi'h of November 17 13. As by the said Warrant and c 

their Receipts ... ... ... ... ... ... viij//. 

Thomas Hues and William Tufifnell, Bricklayers, Em- 
ployed in Building the New Church in the parish of 
St. Margaretts Westminster Imprested to them upon 
Accompt of Bricklayers work by them done there, t t 
By Three Warrants, etc. etc M.M.c.//. 

Edward Tuffnell and Edward Strong, Masons .... 

work by them performed at the said Church, &c., &c. v.M//. 

John Skeat in part and upon Accompt of Smith's work by c 

him done at the said Church, etc. etc. ... ... viij'//. 

Robert Jefifes and John James, Imprested to them for c 

Carpenter's work done at the said Church, etc. etc. iiij//. 

George Norris by way of Imprest for Digging the ffoun- 

dation of the said Church, etc. etc cxxx//. 

Roll 3 (9 Dec. 1715 — 24 June 1717. J. Leacroft, Treasurer). 

Edward Strong and Edward Tufifnell, Masons, for Masons 

work by them done and Materials Used in building 

the Church at Westminster within the years 17 13, 

1714, 1715 and 1716 ^\ c 

xij. vj. Ixvj//. XVlj.f. 

John James and Robert Jeffes, Carpenters, for Carpen- 
ters work by them done and Material used in build- 
ing the said Church in the years 17 13, 17 14, and 

I7I5 C XX 

vj. iiijxvij//. xiiij.y. viijc/. 
John Grove another Carpenter for Carpenters work by 
him done and Materials used in building the said 
Church in the year 17 13 Ivj//. xv.y. 

* Previous payments for work at the churches at East Greenwich and St. 
George-tho-Martyr. Nearly every one of the earlier tradesmen employed (in- 
cluding Hues and Tuffnell) were of the parish of St. Margaret. 



26 Payments to builders. 

Thorn Hues and William Tuffnell, Bricklayers, for Brick- 
layers work and Materials used in building the said 

Church in the years 1713, 1714, 1715, 1716 

t t t c 

M.M.M. vij. ]U. xvjj. ]d. 

John Skeat, Smith, for Smith's work by him done and 

Materials used in Building the said Church in the 

years 1713, 1714, 1715, 1716 t c . 

M. vij. xj//. xvijj-. )a. 

George Osmond, Plumber, for Plumbers work in the 

years 1714, 1715, 1716 ..?. .^^ 

mj. nij. xix/z. xvj'. v^. 

George Norris, Digger, for work by him done and 

Materials used, etc. in the years 17 13, 17 14, 171 5 

cxxijV/. xviijj. \]d. 

Roll 4 (24 June 1717 — 29 Sept. 1718. J. Leacroft, Treasurer). 

John Grove, Carpenter, of the Parish of St. Clement 
Danes in part and upon Account of Carpenters 
work by him done at the new Church erecting in c 

the Parish of St. Margaret, Westminster ... ... \h. 

[A payment on account to Edward Strong and Ed. Tuffnell, 
Masons, for work executed at six Churches then in course of 
erection including St. John's, Westminster, ^5,000.] 

[A payment on account to John Skeat for Smith's work at all the 
new Churches then building, ^400.] 

[A payment on account to John Grove for Carpenters work at the 
new Churches in the Strand and at Westminster, ^500.] 

William Tuffnell, Bricklayer, on account for Bricklayers 

work at the new Church at Westminster ... ... xl//. 

Roll s (10 Jan. 1721-2 — 25 Dec. 1723. Nath. Blackerby, Treasurer). 

John Skeat; for Smith's work and Materials delivered at 

the said Church ... ... ... ... ...xxxiijZz". xjj". xjrtT 

Edward Strong and Edward Tuffnell for masonry per- 
formed at the said Church ... ... cxxij//. xiiji-. \]d. 

Thomas Hues and William Tuffnell for Bricklayers work 

c 
ix. xix//. xvj'. \]d. 

c 
John Grove for Carpenters work ... ... iiij' Ixxviij//. iij\s". '\]d. 

George Norris, Digger, for digging and levelling of earth 

about the foundations of the said Church ... xxx//. xvs. 

John Reynolds, Painter, for Painting the Windows of the 

said Church ... ... ... ... ... viijV/. Wis. 

Richard Marples, Plumber, for Pig Lead for Running 

Cramps and Joints for the Masons work ... xij//. ijs. ujd. 

Thomas Hinton for money by him paid to John Mayfield, 
Labourer, for bringing the Cuttings of Lead from off 
the said Church and laying them into the Vault vij//. xvjs. 



Payments to builders. 27 

Bundle 438, Roll 6 (26 Dec. 1723 — 25 Dec. 1725. N. Blackerby, Treasurer). 

John Skcat, Smith, for work done and materials 

used ... ... ... ... ... ... yXwIi. \\]S. viijc/. 

WilHam Tuffnell, Bricklayer ... ... ... ...ccxiiij//. xvj. 

John Langlcy, Joyner, for fiframing the Timber and Pew- 

ing the Gallery of the said new Church ... ... viij//. viij.y. 

John Lock, Carpenter ... ... ... ... cclx.xiij//. xiiji". vjV/. 

Roll 7 (26 Dec. 1725^25 Dec. 1727. N. Blackerby, Treasurer). 

To the Artificers and others undernamed employed in Building 

the New Church at Westminster : — ^ 
Edwd. Strong, Mason Mccclxix//'. vijj-. viijrt'. 

William Tuffnell, Bricklayer ccciiijv/z. xvj-. \\\]d. 

to 

John Lock, Carpenter Mviij " Ixxv//. \\\\s. \d. 

William Langley, Joyner, and his ^ 

Executors 
John Cleave, Smith 

Thomas Goff, Smith 

John Boson, Carver 

Isaac Mansfield, Plasterer 

James Preedy, Painter 

John Reynolds, Painter 

Geo. Osborn, Plumber 

Charles Scriven, Glazier ... 
John Turner, for Charcoal 

Roll 8 (26 Dec. 1727—25 Dec. 1729. N. Blackerby, Treasurer). 

c 

Edward Strong, Mason vliij//. xviij.y. viij</. 

XX 

Wm. Tufnell, Bricklayer ciiijxvij/z. \\\]s. \d. 

c 

John Lock, Carpenter 

John Boson, Carver 

John Cleave, Thos. Goff and John Robins, 

Smiths... 

George Deval, Plumber 

Isaac Mansfield, Plasterer 

George Clayfield and Jno- Reynold, 

Painters ^ xvj//. i.x.y. vijW. 

John Mist, Pavior... .'. vlxxvj//. \\]s. \d. ' 

Roll 9(26 Dec. 1729—25 Dec. 1731.— N. 151.-\ckerby, Treasurer). 

John Boson, Carver xxij//. vs. xjd. 

Christopher Cass, Mason clx//. ixj-. vjV. 

George Deval,-TIumber Ixix//. xxijV/. 



vj ■ xiij//. 


xviiji-. 


viijrt'. 


clxviij//. 


XJ. 




XX 






cciiijxij//. 




vjV/. 


ccxxvj//. 


xvij.f. 


jd. 


V ^1//. 


ij.f. 


\\y/. 


liiijV/. 




xvd. 


iiij//. 


iiij.y. 




ccclxj//. 


xixj. 


jd 


XX 






iiijvjV/. 


viijj-. 




xxj//. 


vijj-. 


vj./. 



v ■ x//. 


xs. 
xxs. 


v'uyi 


XX 

iiijxiij//. 
ccclxx//. 


xvij.y. 


vjd. 
xjd 




xiij.r. 


jd 



28 



Cost of building. 



xxxij//. ylis. xd. 



ix//. 



VJJ. 



iiij ■ iiijvj/z. xijj. iiijrt'. 
xvj//. xvs. vd 
x/i. \js. ']d 

XXXAXS. 

liiij//. xvj.y. ']d. 

c 

vij ■ iiij//. \xs. \xd. 

N. Blackerby, Treasurer). 

clxijV/. vijj'. xrt'. 



XXVIJJ. 




xxv//. XVJ-. 


xjV. 


xxxvj//. VJ-. 


v]d 


ix//. vs. 


\\\]d. 


xxxiiij//. viijj-. 


iiijc/. 


Blackerby, Treasurer. 




v//. iiij^. 


vj^. 


xx//. xvijj-. 


vjV/. 



Thomas Gofif, Smith 

Nicholas Hawksmore, Esq. for making a 

Model of a Twisted Column and fo; 

his Disbursements for Watching ... 

John Lock, Carpenter 
Isaac Mansfield, Plasterer 
John Preedy, Painter 
John Reynolds, Painter ... 
Charles Scriven, Glazier ... 

William Tuffnell, Bricklayer 

Bundle 439, Roll 10(26 Dec. 1731—25 Dec. 17 

Christopher Cass, Mason 

Ann Clayfield Executor of George Clay 

field. Painter ... 
George Deval, Plumber 
Thomas Gofif, Smith 
John Lock, Carpenter 
Wm. Tuffnell, Bricklayer 

Roll II (In part duplicate of Roll 10) 
Roll 12 (26 Dec. 1733 — 24 June, 1736. N. 

Isaac Mansfield, Plasterer 
John Mist, Pavior . . 

Roll 13 (24 June 1736 — 29 Sept. 1741). 

Nil. 
From the following summary, which omits the pro- 
portionate parts of the consolidated payments (^^5,900) made 
for several churches, architect's commission and proportion 
of salaries of secretary and treasurer, it will be seen that 
the cost was not less than ^40,875. 



Roll I 



4 
5 
6 

7 
8 

9 
10 
12 



Deduct cost of Site 



£ 


s. 


d 


f 700 
\ 800 





(For Ground) 








9,264 


6 





... 17,917 


13 


5 


540 








1,612 


19 


8 


546 


4 


2 


6,010 





I 


2,320 


8 


8 


1,568 


9 


9 


269 


10 


3 


26 


2 





41,575 


14 





700 








h £40,873 


14 






Dedication of ChurcJi. 29 

An analysis has also been made of the amounts paid to 
the different classes of artificers, viz. :— 

Bricklayer 

Smith 

Carpenter and Joiner 

Digging Foundations 

Mason 

PlumlDcr 

Painter 

Plasterer 

Carver 

Pavior 

Glazier ... 

Watchman 

Sundries 



L 


s. 


</. 


9,898 


4 


5 


1,678 


n 





5>9io 


9 


9 


283 


13 


'> 


20,035 


13 


10 


1,339 


I 


5 


96 


5 


1 1 


572 


15 


7 


250 


3 





597 


5 


4 


141 


4 


I 


34 


6 





38 


9 


6 



^40,875 14 o 



Mr. Walcott records that "the title of the sacred building 
was derived from the chapel of that name in the Abbey ; 
for St. John the Evangelist was the patron saint of King 
Edward the Confessor, the pious founder of the mother 
church of St. Margaret, in which was held a fraternity of 
St. John." But it is not at all improbable that in 
dedicating the Church to St. John the Evangelist, the Com- 
mission were guided by Dr. Onley, who could not have 
taken an active interest for forty years or more in St. 
Margaret's and in the Abbey, without having gained some 
knowledge of the chapel dedicated to St. John the 
Evangelist, which had been lost to Westminster for nearly 
two centuries. During the reigns of Edward III. (1327) 
and Richard II. (1377) a chapel dedicated to St. John the 
Evangelist had existed in Westminster. Mr. J. T. Smith, 
in his Antiquities of Westminster, 1807, refers to a con- 
tention as to jurisdiction between the Abbot of St. Peter's 
and the Dean and Canons of St. Stephen's, which difference 
was settled by deed of compromise in 1394. In that deed 
the chapel of St. John the Evangelist was specially 
reserved. After a clo.se examination of local details the 
author of the valuable work just named (pp. 104 and 127) 



JO Consecration. Ornaments. 

fixed the position of the chapel as being to the south of the 
chapel of St. Stephen, and on the site of Cotton Garden, 
close to the Painted Chamber. The chapel, which was sup- 
pressed by Edward VI. (1547), had an annual revenue of 
i^i,o85 los. 5d. 

Seventeen years elapsed between the purchase of the site 
and the consecration ceremony. The building operations, 
which occupied fifteen years of this time, were prolonged by 
difficulties which the porous nature of the subsoil occa- 
sioned, and which, as will be hereafter seen, caused an 
alteration in the design. Early in 1728 the structural work 
was completed, and the parishioners, with others who had 
been impatiently awaiting the withdrawal of the workmen, 
welcomed the assembling of the Commissioners, the neigh- 
bouring clergy, and the choristers from the Abbey, over 
whom, as 

They entered now the aisles so tall. 
The darkened roof rose high aloof 

On pillars lofty, and light and small. 

Scott. 

The ceremony of consecration, which took place on 20th 
June, 1728, was performed by Dr. Bradford, Bishop of 
Rochester and Dean of Westminster, assisted by Dr. Gee, 
Minister of St. Margaret's, and Dr. Charles Pinfold, on 
behalf of the Dean and Chapter. The sermon was preached 
by Dr. Denn, Minister of Shoreditch,* and son-in-law to the 
Bishop. The Proctor's bill of costs incidental to the cere- 
mony was ^28 I2s. The church was not opened for public 
worship until lOth November — nearly five months after 
the consecration ceremony. 

As soon as the congregation had had time to survey the 
fine proportions of their new church, the Vestry appointed a 
committee to ascertain what ornaments should be provided. 
At their meeting on 25th September, 1730, the committee 
agreed upon their report : — 

The Committee after enquiring into the matters referred to them by 
* The London Journal, June 22, 1728. 



Minor and major troubles. 31 

the Vestry, and having consulted the Canons and Constitutions 
Ecclesiastical and Articles commonly exhibited to Churchwardens to 
make their Presentments, found the several things following which con- 
cern the Church, and which the Parish arc obliged to procure, wanting, 
viz : — 

"A Box for Alms. A carpet and fine linnen cloth for the Com- 
munion Table. A Flaggon. Cups and Covers for Bread. Lord's 
Prayer, Creed and Commandments in fair letters and at the East End 
of the Church. King's Arms set up. A Table of Degrees of Marriage. 
A Chest with three locks. A Register Book in Parchment. 

Besides these things they agreed that Two Dishes were wanting for 
the collection of Alms at Sacraments and upon Briefs, and that two 
more Surplices should be provided. 

The Committee were of opinion that the Carpet for the Com- 
munion Table should be made of Velvet and have a Gold Lace and 
Fringe and that there should be two Cushions of the same with Gold 
cords and tassels and two Common Prayer books finely bound and 
gilt, a Velvet Cushion and Vallance for the Pulpit, two Silver Flaggons 
two Chalices and Pattens, and one Silver Dish. 

The Committee were also of opinion that a large Double Branch of 
Brass for Candles would be a usefull ornament as would also be Cur- 
ains to the East Windows. 

Resolved that it is necessary to have a large Table for the Vestry 
Room, two dozen of Chairs, one Elbow one and a Carpet, all which 
things they think may be procured for about ^300 or thereabouts." 

On the 25th March, 1731, after the church had been open 
two years and five months, an order was given for the 
articles scheduled by the committee to be obtained, the de- 
lay having been occasioned by the collection of subscriptions 
to defray the cost. Four years later (22nd May, 1735) the 
Vestry accorded a vote of thanks to Mr. Thomas Churchill 
and Mr. Pratt " for the King's Arms given by them to the 
Church." 

An unexpected but short-lived trouble was now experi- 
enced — a trouble which " Old Westminsters " would fain 
expunge from the official records, were it not that the 
school of to-day can well afford the comparison with its 
out-door conduct of 1739. 

" When you shall these unlucky deeds relate, 

. . . nothing extenuate, 
Nor set down aught in malice." 



32 Minor and major troubles. 

Let the Vestry minutes speak for themselves : — 

Sih May, I739-* The windows of this Church having been frequent- 
ly broke and the Inhabitants put to continual Expenses and 
otherwise very much annoyed by some of the scholars belonging 
to Westminster School, 
Ordered that a Memorial be drawn up and presented to the Dean 
and Chapter of Westminster for redress of the said grievances. 

We now have to chronicle a real misfortune. On Sunday, 
26th September, 1742, as morning service was about to be 
conducted by the Rev. Charles Churchill, father of the poet, 
an alarming outbreak of fire was caused by " part of the 
timber of the roof lying in or too near the funnel of the 
chimney in the Vestry." Such extinguishing appliances 
as could be requsitioned in time were of no avail until the 
fire had consumed the communion table and rails, 
pews, pulpit, desks, galleries, roof, and everything combus- 
tible in the Church and vestry. The " fire brigade " then, 
for the first time, became of service in cooling the piles of 
debris from the fallen roof Nothing but the walls, with 
three of the towers or pinnacles, remained intact ; even the 
twelve magnificent stone columns were damaged beyond 
repair, the heavy iron work of the roof was rendered useless, 
and the south-west tower was left in an unsafe condition. 

The conflagration was thus reported in Rayners London 
Morning Advertiser oiWednesddiY, Sept. 29. 1742 : — 

" Sunday morning last, about Ten of the Clock, a terrible Fire broke 
out in the Vestry Room of St. John the Evangelist's Church at Mill- 

" It is not improbable that the mischief complained of was practised as the boys 
returned from their ditch-jumping expeditions in the open fields. There were 
339 boys in the school at the time. Among those who passed on to the Uni- 
versities and afterwards occupied Important and distinguished positions were : — 
Edward Smallwell (Curate of St. John's, Chaplain to the King, Bishop of 
Bath and Wells, Bishop of Oxford), T. Franklin (Professor of Greek at Cam- 
bridge, Chaplain to the King, Vicar of Ware, and Rector of Brasted), Lewis 
Devisme (Ambassador to Sweden), Thomas Cornthwaite (Rector of Hackney), 
Nicholas Brady (Rector of Tooting), Richard Parry (Rector of Whichampton), 
John Powell (Vicar of Sheedy Campe), David Tanqueray (Rector of Tingniffe), 
Samuel Markham (Vicar of Leatherhead), George Maitland (son of the Earl of 
Lauderdale), and Thomas Barnard (Dean of Derry and Bishop of Limerick). 



The ChnrcJi in ruins. 



33 



bank, Westminster, just before Divine Service, which burnt with that 
Fierceness that in about two Hours it entirely consumed all the inside 
of the said Church and the Roof thereof, and left nothing standing but 
the Stone Walls, though all possible Diligence was used by the Fire- 
men ; but Water was very scarce, none being to be had, but what was 
drawn upon Sledges from the River Thames." 

A large picture of the Church while in ruins was pre- 
sented to the parish by Godsalve Crosse, Esq., on 8th 
February, 1787, and has since remained in the Vestr)-. On 
its re/noval, recently, for cleaning and restoration, a reduced 
copy was made by photo-gravure for insertion here: — 




Although fire insurance offices had been transacting 
business in London nearly sixty years, the authorities had 

C 



34 Efforts to rebuild tlie Church. 

not protected the parish in any way against such a loss. 
The parishioners were consequently at their wits' ends to 
devise means for defraying the cost of restoration, which 
was estimated at £z^7S7- The Vestry was called together 
on the first possible day following the fire ; but after ap- 
pointing a committee of investigation, adjourned owing to 
the absence of Dr. Willes, the Rector, on his diocesan duties 
at St. David's. In six weeks' time his lordship returned to 
town and attended the Vestry. He gave no encourage- 
ment, however, to a proposal to provide a temporary place 
of worship b)' fitting up " the piazzas under the new dormi- 
tory " of Westminster School for the performance of 
Divine service. An appeal to the First Lord of the Trea- 
sury was agreed upon ; but Sir John Crosse,* to whom the 
presentation of the petition had been entrusted, reported 
that the Government were not disposed to assist. An ap- 
plication was then made to the Churchwardens of St. 
Margaret's to call a meeting of the two Vestries. This was 
also fruitless, as the Churchwardens, while declaring their 
willingness to join in the promotion of a subscription, felt 
themselves unable to convene a meeting of the Vestries. 
The Vestry of St. John's thereupon abandoned the proposal 
to solicit a public subscription. Twelve months' delibera- 
tions having failed to produce a solution of the difficulty, 
another petition to the Treasury was resorted to as the only 
expedient. After reciting the damage done, and the es- 
timated cost of repair, the petitioners set forth that they 
were charged with the rate for the Rector's maintenance 
while there was no Church for them to attend, and that many 
of the inhabitants were quitting their houses on that ac- 
count. The Rev. Joseph Sims, who had entered upon the 
Rectory shortly after the fire had occurred, had waived his 
claim to the rate. His predecessor. Dr. Willes, who had by 
this time been translated from St. David's to Bath and 

* His father had been elected M.T. for Westminster four times. Sir John 
became member in 1754. 



Parliamentary gra)it toivards the cost. 35 

Wells, was less considerate, for he increased the jjerplexities 
of the Vestry by pressing for his quarter's stij^end due at 
the time of the disaster. There being no funds in hand, a 
tcmjjorary relief from this minor difficult)- was afforded b}' 
one of the members, who advanced the sum claimed b}- the 
Bishop. 

Under the guidance of the new Rector, who seems to 
have taken up his residence in the parish, and to ha\'e 
distinguished himself for a time by his activit}-, the second 
appeal to the Government proceeded more hopefully, and 
the Vestr}^ were encouraged b)- the Rector's report that 
Mr. Pelham, who was then First Lord of the Treasur)-, had 
promised his support to the prayer of the petition. On the 
20th February, 1744 (new style), the Vestry was jubilant 
with the news brought across from the House that Parlia- 
ment had voted ^^4,000 to restore the church, for which 
exuberant votes of thanks were pas.scd to the First Lord of 
the Treasury, to Sir John Crosse, and to Sir Robert 
Grcsvenor. The money was shortly afterwards received, 
less the House fees, amounting to £^0^ 17s. 8d. The one 
obstacle having been overcome, the Rector, Sir John 
Crosse, Sir Robert Grosvenor, with the two Churchwardens 
(Mr. Charles Crosse and Mr. Samuel Price) were constituted 
a Committee to carry out the work of reparation, and the 
advice of Mr. James Home was secured in drawing up 
the specification. This provided inter alia for the removal 
of the twelve pillars, which had been damaged beyond the 
possibilit}'" of repair, and for the disposal of the other 
materials destroyed, for which a facult)- was decreed b\' the 
Dean and Chapter — 

" The columns must share the builders doom : 
Ruin is theirs, and his a tomb." 

Competition was subsequently invited for the i)iuchase 

of the twelve pillars with the lead and iron fixed thereto, and 

for the removal of the same. The highest offer, six pounds, 

C 2 



^6 T/w CJiurcJi restored and re-opened. 

was accepted. In December, 1745, just seventeen years 
and-a-half since 

" Amid that dim and smoky light, 
Chequering the summer sunshine bright, 
A Bishop by the altar stood. 

With mitre sheen and rocket white " 
at the consecration ceremony, and three years and-a-quarter 
from the date of the fire, the artizan again gave place to the 
worshipper. The total outlay upon the restoration was 
^3,920 8s. 8d. ; and it is remarkable that while the details 
of this are entered with great minuteness in the parish 
books, no account of the re-opening services is preserved. 
Nor is there a note of dissatisfaction at the internal altera- 
tions which had been made during the reconstruction — 

" Not but that portions of the pile, 
Rcbuilded in a latter style. 
Showed where the spoiler's hand had been." 

The south-west tower, which was the only part of the 
exterior destroyed by the fire, was restored to the strict 
lines of the original, so that, from an external view, the 
effects of the conflagration were scarcely noticeable. 

Our observation easily extends itself from that faithful 
reproduction to the architectural features of the structure 
generally, on which a remarkable diversity of opinion 
has been expressed by numerous writers. The design has 
been attributed severally to Sir John Vanbrugh, who 
was one of the Commissioners, and to one of his pupils, 
Thomas Archer. The majority of the critics favour the 
view that the latter was the architect, and the doubt seems 
to be set at rest by the fact that the former, acting as 
Commissioner, in conjunction with several of the Bishops 
signed some of the warrants* for the builders' payments on 
the architect's certificates. While it was incompatible in 
one of the Commissioners to act also as architect, it was 



Vide Treasury Papers, 1715 to 1723. 



Sir John Vanbrngh. %j 

most natural that the master mind should be reproduced by 
the pupil. 

Sir John Vanbrugh, architect, poet, and dramatist, born 
1666, was of foreign lineage, his grandfather having come 
over to England from Ghent, at the time of Alva's prosecu- 
tion of the Protestant Netherlands. According to some 
anecdotes told of him, he studied architecture in France ; 
but it is to be regretted that no satisfactory account of his 
early life has come down to us, for it would be instructive 
to learn how an architect of such a peculiar taste formed a 
'style' which may be called his own. He must have 
acquired some reputation for architectural skill previously 
to 1695, for he was then appointed one of the com- 
missioners for completing the palace at Greenwich, when it 
was about to be converted into a hospital. About the 
same time he began to distinguish himself as a dramatic 
writer. Considered merely as literary productions his plays 
of the ' Relapse ' (1697), the ' Provoked Wife' (1698), and 
the 'Confederacy' (1699), are entitled to unqualified ad- 
miration; but so libertine are they in plot and sentiment, 
as to be banished not only from the stage, but almost from 
the library ; and he \\'ho might have been the Molicre of 
our dramatic literature is now consigned (sa)'s Knight) to 
comparative oblivion. He built inter alia Castle Howard, 
Duncombe Hall, and Grimsthorpe, Yorkshire; King's Weston, 
near Bristol ; Oulton Hall, Cheshire ; and Blenheim for the 
first Duke of Marlborough. His architecture, which cer- 
tainly is heavy, brought down upon him the ridicule of Swift 
and Pope, more especially as he was so many-sided, and 
poached on their domains as a poet and wit. Vanbrugh 
at one time held the office of Clarencieux King of Arms, 
which he afterwards disposed of Hence Swift's satirical 

verses : — 

" Van (for 'tis fit the reader know it) 
lb both an Herald and a Poet ; 
No wonder then if nicely skill'd 
In lioth capacities to build." 



38 T J 10 mas Archer, the ArcJiitcct of the Church. 

As Herald he can in a day 
Repair a House gone to decay ; 
Or by achievements, arms, device, 
Erect a new one in a trice ; 
And as a Poet he has skill 
To build in speculation still." 

And Pope speaks of him (Sat. v) — 

" How Van wants grace, who never wanted wit." 

Sir John died at his house at Whitehall (built by him- 
self), March 26, 1726. Despite his licentious pen, his 
private character appears to have been amiable and his 
conduct tolerably correct (Knight) ; and even his opponents 
Swift and Pope admitted that he was both ' a man of wit 
and man of honour.' 

Thomas Archer was the .son of Thomas Archer, M.P. for 
Warwick in the time of Charles II. He held the office of 
' groom porter ' under Queen Anne, George I., and George 
II., and is so styled in the Gentlenians Magazine, where 
his death is recorded (23 May, 1743). About 1705 he 
built Heythorpe Hall, Oxfordshire, said to have been his 
first \\'ork ; St. Philip's Church, Birmingham, begun in 171 1 
and finished in 1719 ; Cliefden House, which was destroyed 
by fire ; and many other buildings, of which there is 
sufficient record in the Dictionary of the Architectural 
I\iblication Society. The date of his birth is not known ; 
but at his death, in 1743, he must have reached an advanced 
age. He is said to have left i," 100,000 to his youngest 
nephew, H. Archer, Esq. member for Warwick.* 

Among the earliest references to the architectural features 
of the church is that of Chamberlain, in his New and 
Coniplcat History and Survey of London and Westminster, 
iy6g, in which he states that the edifice — 

" Is remarkable only for having sunk while it was building, which oc- 
casioned an alteration in the plan. On the north and south sides are 
magnificent porticoes, supported by vast stone pillars, as is also the 
roof of the church. At each of the four corners is a beautiful stone 

* Dictionaiy i^f National Biography. ' 



Criticisms on the architecture. 39 

tower and pinnacle ; tliesc additions were erected that the whole mi;4ht 
sink equally, and owe their magnitude to the same cause. The parts 
of this building are held together by iron bars, which cross within the 
isles." 

In connection with other mishaps in the neighbourhood, 

the 'sinking' of the structure is referred to by Pope in his 

Satire ii : — 

" Right," cries his lordship, " for a rogue in need 

To have a taste is insolence indeed : 

In me 'tis noble, suits my birth and stale, 

My wealth unwieldy, and my heap too great." 

Then like the sun, let bounty spread her ray, 

And shine that superfluity away. 

Oh, impudence of wealth 1 with all thy store, 

How dar'st thou let one worthy man be poor ? 

Shall half the new-built churches round thee fall ? 

Make quays, build l)ridges, or repair Whitehall I 

John Northouck, in A New History of London, including 

Westminster and Southiuark, 1772)^ informs us that: — 

" This church was erected in anjirea on the north side of V^ine-street, 
Millbank, and was finished in 1728 ; but the low swampy nature of the 
soil it was founded on caused it to sink while it was building, and pro- 
duced an alteration in the plan. On the north and south sides are 
magnificent Doric porticoes, supported by vast stone pillars, as is also 
the roof of the church. 

The chief aim of the architect was to give an uncommon, yet 
elegant outline, and to shew the orders in their greatest dignity 
and perfection, and indeed the outline is so variously broken, that there 
results a diversity of light and shadow, which is very uncommon, and 
very elegant. The principal objections against the structure are, that 
it is so much decorated that it appears encumbered with ornament ; 
and that the compass being too small for the design, it ajjpears too 
heavy." 

The Rev. Joseph Nightingale, in his entertaining and 
comprehensive Beauties of Eng/and and Wales, 1815 (///. 
London and Middlesex, Vol. 3, part 2), makes an interest- 
ing reference to the church : — 

"This is one of the most singular, not to sa\- whimsical, Ijuildings in 
or near the metropolis. 

it is one of the fifty two new churches built soon after the time ot 
Sir Christopher Wren ; but the reader, who has seen it, will not need 



40 The Church. Criticisms on the architecture. 

to be informed, that no pupil of his was the architect. It is the work 
of Mr. Archer, who has certainly shewn no little skill, or power of 
invention, on this occasion. 

At each of the four angles is a beautiful stone tower and a pinnacle. 
It is said that these additions were erected, that the whole might sink 
equally, and owe their magnitude to the same cause. 

If this is the true reason given for the erection of this tower, and 
pinnacles, are we to suppose, that the architect anticipated a second 
accident, or suspected, after all, the solidity of his foundation ? And 
could he calculate on the certainty in case it should again give way, of 
its sinking in every part equally ? This, indeed, would appear to be the 
case, for the various parts of the whole fabric are fastened together by 
strong iron bars, which intersect even the aisles. 

On viewing this church at a distance one is reminded of the towers 
of Moscow ; or the massy ornaments of Constantinople ; but on 
approaching it, the numerous pillars, porticos, and pilasters, crowded 
into a small space, and almost hiding and intersecting each other in 
one solid mass, confuse and almost confound the view ; and certainly, 
in my estimation, produce every sort of sensation but those that are 
inspired by grandeur of design and simplicity of execution. 

It has been attributed to Vanburg ; and the weight of the building 
would seem to justify the assertion ; but this, however, is not the fact. 

Some forty or fifty years ago, this edifice was much injured by fire ; 
and the work was thought to have suffered so as to endanger the roof 
It was not, however, till within these three years, that the roof was 
propped up by four pieces of square timber, over which not even a 
plane appears to have passed. They are placed in the body of the 
church, and remain to this day, to disfigure the interior. 

The interior is dark and heavy ; nor are there any monuments of 
interest within its walls. The organ, however, is a very excellent one. 

One of the best descriptions of the building is that given 

in Peter Cunningham's History of London,\o\. iv., p. 234: — 

" This magnificent building differs from the g'eneral arrangement of 
ecclesiastical edifices. The plan is an oblong square, the two narrowest 
ends of which are contracted by means of sweeps in the walls, forming 
quadrants of circles, and having porticoes flanked with four scjuare 
towers attached to the other sides. The north and south sides of the 
edifice contain the entrances, beings, contrary to usual practice, the 
principal fronts of the building ; they are uniform with each other, and 
the description of one will therefore suffice for both. The elevation 
commences with a lofty double flight of steps leading' to a winged por- 
tico of the Doric order, composed of five divisions, the three central 
ones being recessed, and comprising two columns ; the side divisions 
are marked by anttt ; in every division is an arched doorwa)', with a 
window of the same form above it ; the whole is crowned with the en- 
tablature of the order, surmounted by a pediment broken above the 
centre of the front to let in an arch, flanked by pilasters of the Ionic 



Architectural description. 41 

order, and covered with a pediment, behind which tlie churcli also 
finishes with a second pediment ; above the side divisions, the towers 
commence with square stylobates, which taking their rise from the 
raking cornice of the broken pediment, forcibly add to the character of 
instability, for which the towers of this church are remarkable. 

Above the stylobate the towers take a circular form, and are encir- 
cled by four insulated columns rising from the angles of the scjuare 
portion of the design ; in the north and south elevations are arched 
windows with circular ones above them ; in the other two inter- 
columniations are parallelogrammatic openings flanked by pilasters, 
the whole is crowned with an entablature ; the columns are of the 
Corinthian order, and the entablature over them is whimsically enough 
made to assume the circular form ; by means of the latter, the columns 
are united to the cella ; the roof of each tower is covered with lead 
forming a bell-shaped cupola ; owing to the defective construction of 
the building, the whole is greatly out of order ; the perpendicular is 
lost in some instances, and the columns defaced by being bound to 
each other, and to the walls of the building by bars of iron. The east 
and west fronts are uniform ; the elevation commences with a stylo- 
bate, in which are windows and entrances to the vaults ; the super- 
structure is made into four divisions by pilasters, and finished by the 
entablature, which is continued round the entire building ; in the 
central division is a large arched window, and in the side ones smaller 
windows recently walled up in the east front. The attic is raised above 
the entablature of the order supported by trusses ; in the centre is a 
niche between grouped antit, covered with a pediment ; in each flank 
is a circular headed window of recent construction ; the west end has 
no windows in the flanks, and those in the side divisions are still open ; 
the sweeping walls which connect the four fronts commence with a 
stylobate, and are finished with the continued entablature ; in each are 
arched windows as before. The church is now covered with an 
unsightly roof, which was substituted after the fire, for one more ap- 
propriate to this splendid building, which before that unfortunate 
accident was perhaps the most magnificent church in the metropolis 
after the cathedral ; the roof is now covered with slates. 

The interior is approached by small porches within the principal 
porticoes ; in its present state, it shews a large and handsome area 
unbroken by pillars or arches. The order is Corinthian, which is 
carried round the side walls in pilaster, surmounted by a rich entabla- 
ture ; the grand groups of columns, which formerly occupied the 
angles of the building, in the style of St. Mary, Woolnoth, were 
destroyed by the fire ; the small windows in the lateral divisions of the 
east and west fronts being designed to throw a light behind the 
columns and prevent the gloom which their great size might otherwise 
create. The ceiling is horizontal, panncllcd into square compartments 
by flying cornices, the soffits enriched with guillochi ; in the midst of 
the ceiling is a large circular pannel with a magnificent boss in the 
centre, the soffits of the pannels are painted a cerulean blue ; the 
ornamental portions stone colour ; an oak gallery, sustained on insig- 



42 TJic ChurcJi. 

nificant Ionic columns, occupies the west end and the north and south 
sides ; this gallery is not coeval with the church ; in the western portion 
is the organ. 

The chancel is a large recess, which has been only completed at the 
late repair, having been in an imperfect state ever since the fire ; it 
now makes a splendid appearance, owing to the judicious ornaments 
which were at that time added to it. The east window is enclosed in 
an enriched architrave, copied from the architecture of the temple of 
Jupitor Stator, with the addition of a sweeping range of minute 
cherubic heads round the arch in imitation of statuary marble, and 
which were copied from a monument in St. Margaret's church ; the 
new windows in the flanks have also architraves enriched with roses ; 
the altar screen is composed of five divisions ; the central is occupied 
by a painting of ' C/in'st bearing his Cross,' after Carlo Dolci ; this is 
situated between two Ionic columns, the shafts imitating Sienna 
marble ; the other divisions are made by pilasters, and contain the 
usual inscriptions on pannels, in imitation of various marbles ; above 
the central division was formerly a pediment interfering with the 
window ; this has been altered to a light pedimental cornice enriched 
with honeysuckles. The arched ceiling has a gilt glory in the centre ; 
the two pilasters at the entrance of the chancel are painted to imitate 
Sienna marble, and the capitals, modillions, and other enrichments are 
gilt. The pulpit and desks are situated in one group in front of the 
altar rails. In the new pcwing of the church at the last repair free 
seats were constructed, but with a contemptible spirit of aristocratic 
pride, a line of bronze ornamental honey-suckles was constructed to 
distinguish the humble occupants of the new free seats from the more 
favourite tenants of the pews — a distinction inimical to the spirit of the 
Church of England — utterly at variance with Christian benevolence, 
and disgraceful to any building for religious purposes, in which the 
'rich and poor meet together,' or ought to do so. The font is situated 
in the north-west angle of the church ; it is a neat basin of veined 
marble on an octagonal pillar." 

Commenting in 1815 on the architecture of the church, 
" An Architect," writing in T/ie London iMagasine, .says :- — 

" Notwithstanding Vanbrugh appears to have been indifferent as to 
what point he placed the altar end of his chapel at Blenheim, he on 
this occasion has been scrupulously correct, as we find hie West end, 
North entrance. South ditto, and East or altar end. Our Knight's es- 
saying to wield the pen as well as compasses, each with equal power, 
raised against him many enemies as scurrilists, lampoonists, and 
doggrel mongers : among their keen hits in this way this comparison 
seems to have taken the lead ; " St. John's Church bears the idea of 
an elephant thrown upon its back," ever concluding in one general 
character as marking all his works — 

" Lie heavy on him, Earth, for he 
Laid many a heavy load on thee I " * 

* The concliulint; lines of Dr. Evans's epitaph. 



Criticisms on the architecture. 43 

On our part we must observe, if solidity, ])()ldncss of features, original 
design, and one prevailing tour of grandeur which governed his hand 
wherever he laid down his mighty load., what genius then is free, what 
art can merit praise, or what superior skill ever truly receive the meed 
of universal approbation ? With us the turn of thinkmg is far other- 
wise ; we venerate the name of Vanbrugh, we laud his labours, and we 
duly appreciate his every architectural example, and none perhaps 
with greater satisfaction than the article before us. Thus our opinion 
may, m some degree, either dispel the cloud of obloquy hanging over 
his memory, or consign our own perverted predilections with those 
of the good Knight's, to be crushed under one common censure, heaped 
upon us both by scribblers and wall constructors, supposing they claim 
no other designation." 

A long description of the architectural feature.s, in tech- 
nical term.s, follow.s the above, and the comment is directed 
to the interior of the church in an article in the same 
magazine of 18 19, p. 519 : — 

" A lamentable falling off in regard to architectural gratitication from 
what the exterior so higlily raised expectation of, by a progressive ratio 
of increasing embellishments ; but we are told from the tradition of 
the place that a fire destroyed all St. John's internal performances ; this 
may be credited, as what little is bestowed is of the meagre parsimonious 
parish cast, consisting chiefly of pews and galleries to answer the 
usual purposes, — conveniency, remuneration, and profit. However, as 
the conflagration did not affect the walls, their heights are maintained 
by Corinthian pilasters set at first against the piers between the 
windows. Their effect is certainly noble. Here all praise is closed, 
and in reluctant train we thus proceed. Door- ways and windows 
plain, pews and galleries in plain panncl work, the latter supported b\- 
extreme slender Corinthian fluted columns ; organ-case of the usual 
large unnecessary dimension, hiding west window, and of the usual 
cast ; pulpit he.xangular, rather enriched, and with the reading-desks 
turned, according to present mode, direct against the altar, which altar 
is of .the commonest degree.'' 

Bohn, in his verj- independent Pictorial Handbook of 
LofidoN, notices the church : — 

"The visitor should not neglect the exterior (only, for the interior is. 
e.xcessively poor) of St. John's, Westminster, which is noble in its 
general form and arrangement, though disfigured in the detail b)- 
conceits more false and corrupt than this country ever saw before or 
since, till within the last few years. The criticism copied into every 
account of this church, we believe since its erection, is a cajjital 
instance of what, in England, passes for taste. It has been the fashion 
to say nothing of its abominable details, but object to its really fine 
form, as 'resembling a parlour table upset, with its legs in the air.' The 
rescmblanrp consists in havini; four summits — 'There is a river in 



44 Tlic CJiurcJi. 

Macedon ; and there is moreover a river at Monmouth' —there are 
four legs to a table, and four turrets to St. John's ; but further from 
this we cannot conceive what inverted table could bear the most 
distant likeness to this building (though most modern tables would 
certainly very closely represent the cornice, parapet, and pinnacles of 
the stereotyped Anglo-Gothic church-tower ; but of this resemblance 
we hear nothing). As for the principle of the objection, 
it is obvious that, if it be worth anything, St. Paul's and all domes 
must be at once condemned as resembling inverted basins ; all the 
Gothic spires, as resembling extinguishers ; all columns, as resembling 
posts ; and in short, all straight-lined objects must be banished for 
resemblance to furniture, and all carved ones for resemblance to 
pottery. Even if those forms only which other arts have borrowed 
from architecture are to be forthwith abandoned by her (as fashionables 
abandon a garb when it has descended to the vulgar), what refuge 
remains? and what becomes of truth in design if noiielty is to be the 
main object? Meanwhile, the result of a total absence of real criticism 
is that the richest city in the world erects and (what is worse) boasts of, 
such works as the Coal Exchange." 

Yet another opinion is offered in Knight's London 

(1843):— 

" Archer's well known production is St. John's Church, Westminster, 
finished in 1728 ; and which if it were possible to designate by any 
single phrase it must be some such as — Architecture run mad. If one 
could imagine a collection of all the ordinary materials of a church in 
the last century, with an extraordinary profusion of decoration of 
porticoes and of towers, to have suddenly dropt down from the skies, 
and by some freak of Nature to have fallen into a kind of order and 
harmony and fantastic grandeur, — the four towers at the angles, the 
porticoes at the ends and in the front, — it would give no very exag- 
gerated idea of St. John's. Vanbrugh, says Pennant, had the discredit 
of the pile." 

Peter Cunningham, in his Hand-book for London^ Past 
and Present ( 1 849), quotes * from Walpole's A necdotes : — 

" St. Philip's Church, Birmingham, and a house at Roehampton 
(which, as a specimen of his wretched taste, may be seen in the 
' Vitruvius Brittanicus ') were other works of the same person ; but the 
chef d'oeuvre of his absurdity was the Church of St. John's, with four 
belfreys, in Westminster." 

In a footnote it is stated that — 

" Mr. Archer's design of the Church, as it was agreed upon by the 
Commissioners, is a very different design from the existing Church. 
Many alterations were subsequently made without the knowledge or 
consent of the architect." 

* P. 446. The date of the cunsecralion is erroneously given as 1738. 



Criticisms on the arc/iitectuj'e. 45 

Mr. Walcott, in his Me7nonals of Westminster, p. 312, 
(1849), alluding to the architecture of the church, saj's : — 

"When we call to mind the upper part of the western towers of the 
Abbey, and the mutilated exterior of St. Margaret's — the deformities 
of the last anti-Gothic century — it would seem as though the ancient 
architects, having completed their own beautiful work, broke the 
mould. We, therefore, can only rejoice that an exotic architecture — 
then studied and in vogue — was adopted in building St. John's, in 
preference to a motley mimicry of that native but dormant style — the 
Pointed — which is more strictly ecclesiastical." 

Readers of Our Mutual Friend {Y^ook II., chap, i) will 
recollect the impres.sion the mind of Charles Dickens 
received from the church and its immediate surroundings : 

" Bradley Headstone and Charley Hexam duly got to the Surrey 
side of Westminster Bridge, and crossed the bridge, and made along 
the Middlesex shore towards Millbank. In this region are a certain 
little street, called Church Street, and a certain little blind square, 
called Smith Square, in the centre of which last retreat is a very 
hideous church with four towers at the four corners, generally resem- 
bling some petrified monster, frightful and gigantic, on its back with 
its legs in the air. They found a tree near by in a corner, and a black- 
smith's forge, and a timber yard, and a dealer's in old iron. What a 
rusty portion of a boiler and a great iron wheel or so meant by lying 
half-buried in a dealer's fore-court, nobody seemed to know, or want to 
know. Like the Miller of questionable jollity in the song, They cared 
for Nobody, no not they, and Nobody cared for them. 

After making the round of this place, and noting that there was a 
deadly kind of repose on it, more as though it had taken laudanum 
than fallen into a natural rest, they stopped at the point where the 
street and the square joined, and where there were some little quiet 
houses in a row." 

It was in one of these small houses that — 



Miss JENNY WREN, 
Dolls' Dressmaker. 

Dolh nttcttdcd nt their oivn residences. 



otherwise Fanny Cleaver, who befriended \a7.7AC Ilexairi 
after her father's death, had her fictional abode. 

Mr. J. Heneage Jesse, in Me))iorials of London {x'^^'j), 
remarks that : — 

" Near the south crid of College Street is the fantastic-looking church 



46 The Chiinii. 

of St. John the E\angchst, with its four pinnacles, one at each corner, 
which form such prominent objects from the chfifercnt points of the 
metropolis at which they are visible. This church, the work of Sir 
John \'an])ruyh, was commenced in I72i,and completed in 1728. I 
cannot discover that any particular interest attaches to it. It has been 
much censured for its excess of ornament, but it is not altogether 
destitute of architectural beauty, and the portico, supported by Doric 
columns, has been deservedly admired." 

In London ; its Celebrated Characters and Remarkable 
Places (1871), thi.s author corrcct.s hi.s "Memorials" by 
ob.serving that Sir John Vanbrugh " u.sually had the dis- 
credit " for the building" ; " but the real architect was a 
person b}' the name of Archer." He does not appear to 
ha\c noticed that his contemporaries have set down the 
four foremost architects of the time as Vanbrugh, Archer, 
James, and Flitcroft. 

A still more recent writer, Mr. A. J. C. Hare, author of 
Walks in London (18/8), in his allusion to Westminster, 
goes on to sa)- : — 

" In the poverty-stricken cjuarter, not far from the river, is St John's 
Church, the second of Queen Anne's fifty churches, built from designs 
of Archer, a pupil of Vanbrugh. . . Lord Chesterfield compared it 
to an elephant on its back, with its four feet in the air. The effect at 
a distance is miscral^lc, but the details are good when you approach 
them." 

Admirers of the characteristic romances of Lord 
Beaconsfield (" one of the few, the immortal names that 
were not born to die ") will recollect how intimately the 
great statesman and author had become acquainted in his 
later writings with the Church, the Rectory House, and the 
surroundings. In his Sybil, or the Two Nations — the 
work which is prefaced by his beautiful inscription to Lady 
licaconsfield — he makes repeated reference to them. 

For our present purpose we turn to the chapter in which 
Egremont, having met Sybil in the Abbey, accompanies 
her home to the Rectory House. " Making a circuitous 
course through this tranquil and orderly district, they at 
last found, themselves in an open place, in the centre of 



Criticisms on the architecture. 47 

which rose a church of vast proportions, and built of hewn 
stone in that stately, not to say ponderous, style which 
Vanbrugh introduced." 

Mr. Walford, in his Old and New London, speaks of the 
church as " a singular building which a stranger would 
never be likely to take for a church. . . . Its architect 
certain!)' seems to have defied all the rules of architecture, 
loading the heavy structure with still heavier ornamenta- 
tion, by building at each of the four angles a stone tower 
and a pinnacle of ugliness that passes description." The 
same author quotes from A Neiv Reviezv of the Public 
Buildings (1736) that " the new church with the four towers 
at Westminster is an ornament to the city," and states that 
the writer of the article " deepl)' regrets that a vista was 
not formed from Old Palace Yard so as to bring its beaut)- 
fairly into view." 

The description of the Church and its vicinit)' by Dickens 
in Our Mutual Friend, which has already been given, is thus 
reviewed by Mr. Alfred Rimmer in \\\<^ About England ii-'ith 
Dickens ( 1 883) : — 

" In this region are a certain little street called Church Street, and 
a certain little blind square called Smith Square, in the centre of which 
last retreat is a verj' hideous church, with four towers at the four 
corners, generally resembling some petrified monster, frightful and 
gigantic, on its back with its feet in the air." This is the description 
of St. John the Evangelist, a church that occupies all the centre part 
of Smith Square. Yet the church was the work of an architect who 
enjoyed great honour in his day, and whose designs figure worthily 
among stately elms in some of the most beautiful parts of England. 
By some strange mutation in affairs the architecture that exercised 
Dickens is again coming in vogue, and the Church of St. John the 
Evangelist is greatly admired by architects and artists. A happy issue 
even this is, out of the iconoclastic spirit that has within the last half 
century destroyed the interest and beauty of some — it is supposed 
nearly eighty per cent. — of the parish churches of England. The quaint 
high pews that are now so prized among artists and antiquarians, and 
that are unhappily becoming so rare, were of the date of this church ; 
and the details of the church itself are chaste and good. Probably 
the revived interest in this style may preserve the remnant that re- 
mains of our old parish churches; they arc nearly all destroyed, but, 
some portion may escape." 



48 TJic OiurcJi. After the Restoration. 

With the judgment of one other author, the reader will 
have sufficient diversity of opinion to enable him to deter- 
mine the true architectural merits of the building. This last 
extract is from A History of London, by W. J. Loftie, 1883, 
and shows that the different views so freely expressed more 
than a century ago are as widely estranged as ever: — 

" The last parish formally separated from St. Margaret's was St. 
John's, Westminster. Its church is l^y Vanbrugh's pupil. Archer, and 
is in a most eccentric style. It resembles, according to one author,* 
' a parlour table upset, with its legs in the air.' . . Archer built 
Cliefden, a handsome pile, and one or two other great houses ; but his 
designs, some of which were engraved in the ' Vitruvius Brittanicus,' 
do not entitle him to further notice. The parish is very densely popu- 
lated, and has several district churches ; but the visitor who seeks for 
anything of interest in it, will probably be disappointed. . . The 
epitaph on a lady in Fulham Churchyard will apply : — 

' Silence is best.' 

We now leave the survey of the exterior for a time to take 
a general view of the interior as it was restored after the 
fire. All the " ornaments " were replaced, including the 
sounding board, which was increased twelve inches in 
diameter " to try whether it will help the voice from the 
pulpit." For the first twenty years the services of the 
Church were led by the hautboy, the fiddle, the flute, 
and the bass viol, or were — 

" Left to the singing singers 

With vocal \ oiccs most vociferous 

In sweet vociferation, to out-vociferise 

Ev'n sound itself" — 

(Carev.) 

unaided by instrumental music. In October, 1749, the 
Vestry resolved " that it is proper to have an organ." A 
fortnight later Henry Porter submitted a proposal to pro- 
vide and erect a " great organ " with twenty stops, without 
any expense to the parish, and to cause it to be played in 
a proper manner during the lifetime of his wife and sister, 
on condition that £}^o per annum be paid during their res- 
pective lives. In consequence of an objection by Sir John 

* Cunningham. Handbook for London ; Past and Present, p. 446. 



Organ and organists. 49 

Crosse and Sir Robert Grosvenor, the matter stood in 
abeyance for twelve months, at the expiration of which it 
was agreed to on the understanding that the organ should be 
of the minimum \-aluc of iJ^jOO in the opinion of two experts. 
On 24 September, 175 i, these experts, Mr. Robinson and 
Mr. Kelway, certified the completion of the instrument in ac- 
cordance with the agreement. Twenty years' wear brought 
complaints of the condition of the organ, which was de- 
scribed as being " very foul and much out of repair ; it was 
so full of dust that it was impossible for the pipes to 
speak." A thorough repair was consequently carried out, 
and the annuit)' of ^^^30 was continued until the decease of 
Mrs. Porter in 1793. Mr. Zinzan, Junr., of Brentford, was 
thereupon appointed organist at ;^20 per annum ; but after 
occupyingtheposition for fifteen years, in which theduties had 
been performed by deputy, this gentleman was called upon 
to answer complaints of the inefficient services so rendered. 
He immediately undertook to attend personally for a month 
and to find a more competent substitute or to relinquish his 
office " in consequence of his residing at Brentford, and of 
his numerous other avocations." Mr. Zinzan's salary was 
shortly afterwards increased to £10, and he continued in 
office until his death, which occurred in 1824.* Hcnrj- 
Boys was then appointed to the position. 

In 1 8 19 the organ was again repaired and improved at a 
cost of i^ 1 80, which was defra)'ed out of the church rate; 
in March, 1841, £\\2 were expended upon further repairs, 
and in 1890 the expense of similar work, amounting to 
^.^"165 was raised by public subscription. 

Before leaving the west galler>-, in which the organ was 
placed, we may menticMi that the congregation had so over- 
grown the accommodation in 1756 that, in order to provide 
additional .seats, galleries were constructed along the north 



* In Pietas Londiitensis, 17 14, "Mr. Nicolas Zinzan" is named as the 
Rector of St. Martin Outwich and Lecturer of St. Mary Magdalene, Old Fish 
Street. There is a headstone to the memory of several persons named Zinzan 
in Ilanwell Churchyard. 

D 



5o An unlucky pinnacle and an empty purse. 

and south sides at a cost of iJ^400. This sum was raised by 

appropriating part of the bequest of Richard Farwell, and by 

a gift of iJ'ioo bySir John Crosse, then member of ParHament 

for Westminster. A further extension of the seating was 

made in 1808, when a gallery for "the charity children" 

was constructed on each side of the organ at a cost of ^100. 

The south-west pinnacle, \\'hich replaced that destroyed 

in the fire of 1742, was again placed in jeopardy on the 

morning of i8th October, 1773, when a violent storm broke 

out over the centre of the parish. — 

" Then sudden, through the darkened air, 

A flash of hghtning" came ; 
So broad, so bright, so red the glare, 

The tower seemed on flame." 

Scott. 

Damage was also sustained by that part of the roof im- 
mediately contiguous, a committee of the Vestry being 
instantly empowered to carry out the repairs. 

Seventy years having elapsed since the restoration of 
the church, the necessity for a general repair of the interior 
and exterior now pressed itself upon the attention of the 
Vestry. A survey made in the autumn of 18 12 led to a 
report that the roof, "tye beams," and towers were decayed 
and dangerous, and that the work required to be executed 
would cost i^8,500. The aid of Parliament was solicited 
towards raising the sum ; but this having failed, two eminent 
counsel were called in to advise upon the legality of levying 
a church rate to raise the funds. A proposal made at a 
joint meeting of the two Vestries, to levy a rate of eighteen- 
pence in the pound, was rejected by the Chairman. An 
application to the Court of King's Bench for a mandamus 
followed, and a rate of eightpence was in October, 18 15, 
levied upon the t^^'0 parishes for the repair of the Church. 
The improvements were then proceeded with so far as the 
funds permitted; but increasing demands for seats revived 
the question, and led to a re-arrangement of the pews, and 
to the general completion of the repairs in 1824-5. The 



Description of alterations. 5 ^ 

outlay on this occasion was ^^4,280, of which ;^58o was for 
heating apparatus, and ^^^450 for " new flooring under the 
pews." The alterations are thus described in a letter to the 
London Magazitie of Januar)', 1826: — 

" Since I last addressed you on the subject of Westminster Improve- 
ments numerous others have taken place. 

The population of the parish of St. John the Evangelist having 
materially increased of late years, the Church became insufficient to 
accommodate the parishioners. The Select Vestry of the parish, an- 
ticipating that they should be under the necessity of erecting a New 
Church, or of re-modelling and repairing the present magnificent one 
(the most expensive built in the reign of Queen Anne) ; and consider- 
ing the expense that would attend the erection of a new Church and 
establishment, and their inadequate means of sustaining the same, 
resolved to adopt the latter course. Plans and specifications were ac- 
cordingly made by W. Inwood, Esq., and put to competition about the 
middle of June, 1825, when Mr. James Firth, builder to his Majesty, 
was chosen to perform the necessary alterations. The principal ob- 
jects were to increase the accommodation for the poor, give extra light 
to the body of the Church, properly to warm the same in winter, and 
to admit a change of air in the summer seasons. Previous to these 
alterations the Church would not contain more than 1,200 persons, in- 
cluding about 50 free sittings ; but at present accommodaticjn is 
afforded for about 1,800, including about 500 free sittings. 

These repairs I will now endeavour to describe, first examining the 
Exterior. 

Under the north and south porticoes new square headed door-ways 
have been opened to the western towers. Their uprights have but 
three members in the capital : in this respect differing from the up- 
rights of the door-wa)-s in the centre, which are capped by four 
mouldings ; and again differing from the door to the corresponding 
tower on the east side, which is destitute of either capitals or plinths. 

At the east end the parallelogram, windows collateral with the semi- 
circular headed window s, have been blocked up with stone, and two 
additional semi-circular headed windows have been introduced on the 
north and south sides of the chancel, and glazed with ground and 
stained glass. 

The alterations, additions, and improvements in the 
Interior 
are so conspicuous, that many parishioners can scarcely recognise 
their original place of worship. The pews which were formerly of 
different lengths and widths, have been entirely taken down ; several 
hundred loads of rubbish, caused by the fire which destroyed the in- 
terior of the Church about 80 years ago, removed from under the 
same, to admit a free circulation of the air ; and four double rows of 

I) 2 



52 Description of alterations. 

air-flues built to heat and ventilate the Church. New floor and joists 
were put all over the ground plan, and the pews refixed, leaving a 
spacious nave, and the western portion of the aisles for free sittings. 
All the projecting- seats and pilasters are cleared away to widen the 
aisles. 

From the boss in the centre (which is superior to almost any other 
of the kind, being about 18 feet in diameter and pendent from ihe 
ceiling about 5 feet from the centre) was formerly suspended a brass 
chandelier. 

There is now no entrance to the galleries from the interior of the 
Church ; the places where they stood being converted, the one on the 
north-west corner to the christening-pew, and the other on the opposite 
angle, into free sittings. The font, removed from a pew (the site of 
which is now occupied by that for the Churchwardens on the north- 
west corner of the nave) is railed in from the sponsor's pew. 

The furnaces to warm the church are erected in the crypt, according 
to Mr. Silvester's plan. 

Vestr)'-room provided with a large closet with iron doors. 

The alterations in the Chancel or Sacrarium are very conspicuous. 
The two parallelogram windows on each side of the painted window 
have been blocked up, and a new semi-circular headed window, with 
handsome architraves, ornamented with roses, introduced on each re- 
turn wall. To furnish room for these windows, two beautiful mural 
monuments were removed to the galleries. The centre window repre- 
sents our Saviour bearing the Cross, supported on his right by St. 
John the Evangelist, and on his left by St. Paul. It was presented to 
the parish by T. Green, Esq., of Millbank-row. The upper compart- 
ment has been replaced by dark clouds, with the descending dove, 
surrounded by glory. The beautiful architraxe of this window is 
copied from one in the Temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome. 
Around the semi-circular head is a range of cherubim, cast from the 
beautiful sculptured ones on a monument in the neighbouring parish 
church of St. Margaret. 

These alterations having been completed, the Church was opened 
Decemljer 18 with a sermon preached by the Very Rev. the Dean of 
Westminster, in support of the fund for rebuilding Westminster Hos- 
pital. A sum, amounting to about 45/, was collected after the sermon." 

Tlic iron railings and gates enclo.sing the steps at the 
north and south entrances, were supplied and fixed by 
Messrs. Burt, at a cost of .;^202, in 1828. 

Notwithstanding the large expenditure on the works 
carried out in 1815-16 and 1824-5, the Church appears to 
have fallen into a deplorabl}' dirty condition in 1841, when 



An exhortation to Cleanliness. 53 

the Archdeacon called attention to the necessity of a 
thorough cleaning. No improvement having taken place, 
Archdeacon Sinclair wrote to the Churchwardens in 1844, 
referring to the appeals made by his predecessors, Arch- 
deacon Hale and the Bishop of Lichfield, remarking that 
" the interior is as much in need of being cleaned as that of 
any church I remember to have seen," and calling upon 
them to restore " the sacred edifice to a state more worthy 
of its holy purpose, and more suitable to the respectability 
of the parish." The Churchwardens having taken the 
Vestry into council, the latter attributed the delay to the 
fact that they had no power to make a church rate without 
the co-operation of their brethren of St. Margaret's ; but 
the Archdeacon having sent a further remonstrance in 
January, 1845, negotiations took jilace between the two 
Vestries, which resulted in a church rate of 3d. in the £ 
being levied to raise £2,100, apportioned as to i, i ,400 on 
St. Margaret's and as to i^/oo on St. John's. In October, 
1846, a letter from Archdeacon Sinclair was read in which 
he expressed his satisfaction at the manner in which the 
work had been executed. In April, 1864, ^^1,000 were 
drawn from the parish purse to pay for cleaning and 
painting the interior, on which also, including the modern- 
ising of the seats, upwards of i^ 1,000 were expended in 
1884-5, the sum being raised by a public subscription. 
Happily there is no ground for complaint of the use of 
churchwarden's whitewash in all these repeated re-decora- 
tions — in this respect " old times are changed, old manners 
gone." 

We may now turn aside into the Vestry and examine the 
church plate, carefully kept in the iron closet. According 
to an inventory entered upon the Vestry Minutes in 1770, 
it was valued at .2^128 i8s. 5 i^d., and consisted of : — 

(1/. UWTS. 

One silver cup, gilt ... weighing 23 11 

One silver salver to ditto ... „ 9 7 

One other silver cup, gilt ... „ 23 6 





OZ. 


DWTS 


weighing 


8 


5 


7? 


6i 


8 


5) 


62 


1 1 


?) ■ 


5 


lO 




i8 


i8 



54 The CJiurcJi Plate. 

One silver cover to ditto 

One silver chalice, gilt 

One other silver chalice, gilt . 

One large silver dish, gilt 

One small salver, gilt 

One silver handle knife, gilt ... „ — — 

One silver spoon, gilt ... ,, — — 

One silver chalice and cover, 

for private sacraments ... ,, — — 

This plate was annually transferred to the custody of the 
Churchwardens upon their appointment, and in 1788 was 
insured against burglaries in the sum of i^ioo. The custo- 
dians were at the same time requested to make the doors 
secure, and " to discover offenders and bring them to 
justice," from which may be inferred that an attempt at 
purloining the silver had been made. In a return prepared by 
the Churchwardens in 1889, the church plate, ornaments, 
furniture, etc., are thus specified : — 

SCHEDULE of Platf:, Bells, 0rc;an, Furniture, Linen, 
Coverings for the Lord's Table, etc., and Decorations, 
Painted Windows, and Pictures belonging to the Church 
of St. John the Evangelist, Westminster, made by order of 
the Bishop of the Diocese, 29th September, 1889. 



Rc-viscd 2 Sill June, iSg2. 



Communion Plate. 

(a) Two Chalices, silver gilt. 

Height, 10 inches ; diameter of bowl, 4j^ inches ; diameter 
of foot, 4 inches ; Inscriptions : " The gift of Sir RicJiard 
Gfosvcfior and Sir Thomas Crosse^ Baroftet, tlic two first 
Churchwardens of this Parish." Coats of Arms of the 
donors. Date, 173L Weights,* 22 oz. 8 dwts. and 22 oz. 
3 dwts. respectively. 

(b) Two Patens, silver gilt. 

Diameter, t^}( inches ; diameter of foot, 2^ inches. 
Weights, 8 oz. 3 dwts. and 9 oz. 6 dwts. respectively. 
Inscriptionasabove,with coatsofarmsof donors. Date, 1731 

(c) Two Flagons, silver gilt. 

Height, 13X inches ; diameter at foot, i\)i inches. Same 
inscription and coats of arms as above. Date, 1731. 
Weights, 62 oz. 11 dwts. and 61 oz. 8 dwts. respectively. 

* These weights have been very kindly verified by Mr. Thomas Scudamore, 
of Great Chapel-street, 



Plate ; Font ; Bells, Organ. 5 5 

(d) Two Alms Basons, silver gilt. 

One 14^^ inches in diameter, weighing 52 oz. 10 dwts. 
One 9;?^ inches in diameter, weighing 18 oz. 16 dwts. 
Same inscription, coats of arms, and date as abo\e. 

(c) Two Alms Basons, silver gilt. 

Diameter, 13^^ inches; weights, 45 oz. 10 dwts., and 45 oz. 
_ 3 dwts. respectively; Date, 1784. Inscriptions :" 77/6' _^/// 
of Mrs. Mary Paccy to the C/mrch of St. John the Evan- 
gelist, Westminster., by Richard Pea/re, Esq., her Executor, 
Ann: Don: I/S4. 

The AV7"^- Ro/?ert Poole Finch, D.D., Rector., 

Morris Marsault, 1 r-r / j d 
„ ^ ' > C/iiirchwardens. 

George Uravcs, J 

(f) Two Alms Basons, copper gilt. Diameter, 13 inches ; no 

inscription. 

(g) One small Chalice, silver gilt. Height, 5)^ inches ; diameter 

of bowl, 2j^ inches; diameter of foot, 2^ inches ; Inscrip- 
tion: " The gift of Mr. Joseph Harding, Gent: to ye Church 
of St. John ye Evangelist, Wesf" Coat of arms of the 
donor. Weight, 5 oz. 15 dwts. 

One small Paten, silver gilt. Diameter, 3 inches ; diameter 
of foot, \% inches ; weight, 2 oz. 18 dwts. Same inscrip- 
tion as above, with Crest. 

(h) Two Chalices, silver, modern. Height, 8^ inclics ; diameter, 
4^ inches; diameter of base, ^% inches weights, 16 
oz. 8 dwts. and 150 14 dwts. respectively ; no inscription. 
Two Patens, silver, modern. Diameter, 7^ inches. Inscrip- 
tions : " To the Glory of God. In memory oj Lionel Charles 
Thynne." ''^ Christus vi/a non lucrum." Weights, 5 oz. 19 
dwts. and 5 oz. 18 dwts. respectively. 

(i) One knife — silver handle. One spoon, silver, perforated 
Weight, 2 oz. 2 dwts. ; no inscription, but bearing the 
crests of Sir Richard Crosvenor and Sir Thomas Crosse. 

(j) Two glass Cruets. 

2. Font. — White statuary marble with carved angels at the four 
corners. No cover. 

i^Sce page 59.) 



3. Bell.s. — Five Bells in all. Three in one turret for the Clock. 
Two in one turret for Church use. 



4. 0r(;.\N. — Three manuels — work by Father Sclniiidt and .\\ery ; 
added to by Hill. 

{See page 48.) 



56 CJuircJi fHrnitiirc and ornaments. 

5. Furniture. 

Two moveable Chairs used for Sedilia ; Lectern ; Pulpit ; Fald- 
stool ; Altar ; Credence Table ; brass Altar Cross ; two large 
brass Candlesticks ; two small brass Candelabra ; four brass 
Flower Vases ; one Processional Cross ; one Altar Desk, ■ 
brass ; two brass Brackets for the Pulpit ; one Verger's Staff, 
silver head, inscription: " 6V. John the Evangelist^ West- 
minster., lySg. 

I no. Groves. ') m j 7, ,„;) 

-^ ^, , \ Cliiirchwardens. 

Robert Clarke^ ) 



6. Altar Cloths. 

Two white, embroidered silk. One red, embroidered silk and 
velvet. One purple, with white orphreys. Three sets 
Sanctuary hangings, white, red, purple. One set Curtains. 
Two Funeral Palls, one purple and white for adults ; one 
white for infants. One Press for Altar Cloths, etc. 

7. Linen. 

Altar cloths ; corporals ; chalice veils ; palls. 

8. DecoR-VTIONS — no sculptures or other decorations. 

9. Windows. Three stained glass ""'ndows. (See pages '^'S> and y).) 

10. Pictures. 

One as an Altar piece. (Sec page 58. j 
One in the Vestry. (See pag- ^^.j 

The curious and interesting uiece of parish plate, com- 
monly known as the " St. John's Snuff-box," which is also 
deposited in the iron closet in the Vestry, is described in 
the section assigned to the notice of the Churchwardens, to 
whom the box belongs. 

The registers, through which we take a hurried glance 
before quitting the Vestry Room, contain none of the 
curious notes and memoranda to be found in those of 
parishes of earlier date ; indeed there is little worthy of 
notice besides the instances of longevity in the burial re- 
gisters to which reference is made in Chapter V., and the 
following which, leave scope, however, for speculation as to 
why they should find a place among the burials : — • 

" The recantation of Margaret Starling, on Thursday, Jan. 6, 
1774, the Feast of the Epiphany. 

I, Margaret Starling, wife of William Starling, of the parish of 
St. John the Evangelist, Westminster, having been Ijrought up 
and educated in the principles of the Church of Rome, upon 



Rccantatuvis ajid Baptisms. 57 

serious consideration and real conviction of mind, do now in the 
presence of God and this congreg^ation, renounce the errors of 
that Church, and embrace the Protestant religion as by law estab- 
'shed in this kingdom called England. 

Thomas Bennett, Curate and Lecturer. 
Joshua Flcetivood, (Lay Clerk.) 
Ann Roberts, (Vestry Woman.) 
Riehard Sharp. Ann S/iarp. 

"August 13, 185 1. The Recantation of Timothy Downey and 
Bridget Downey, his wife, in the Church of St. John the Evange- 
list, at si.\ o'clock in the evening on the above day. 
In the name of the Father and of the Son and of the Holy (ihost. 
We, Timothy Downey and Bridget Downey, husband and wife, 
having been brought up and educated in the principles of the 
Church of Rome, upon serious consideration and real conviction 
of mind, do now in the presence of God and of this congregation 
utterly renounce the doctrine of the Church of Rome concerning 
Purgatory, Pardons, worshipping and adoration as well of Images 
as of Reliques, and also Invocation of Saints, and all other 
erroneous doctrines and superstitions, usages of the said Church, 
grounded upon no warrant wf Scripture and repugnant to the 
same, and embrace the Faiih of the Church of England, as now 
by law established, and we believe the Liturgy, Articles, and 
Homilies of the Church of Eiii,'land to be founded on the Scrip- 
tures and to contain all doctrines necessary to salvation. 

(Signed) Tiiny- Ddii'ney, B. Downey. 
(Signed) John Jennings., Rector. 

Witnesses \ ^^'-"^^^ James Jenner 

I „ Elizabeth Hannah Berioie/;. 

The frequency with which the baptism of coloured people 
took place in the middle of the last century, suggests a 
watchful interest on the part of heads of households in the 
welfare of their negroes, and reminds us that the possession 
of a black servant was one of the fashions of the da}-. 
The following are transcribed as a specimen of the entries 
to be met with : — 

1730. 2 April. John Chaffinch, a Blackamoor, 16 years of age, 

baptized by Mr. Moore. No money. 

1 73 1. Oct. 1 1. Sanders Dover, a Blackamoore boy, aged 13, 
1733. Jan. 10. John Brown, a Blackamorc. 

1760. 5 Sept. John James, an adult black. 

1772. Feb. 5. Andrew Clarke, a .Mulatto of riper years. 



58 The East-ivindozv and the Altar-piece. 

1773. Aug. 23. Andrew Jones, an adult Blackmoor. 

1773. Sept. I. John Johnson, an adult Blackmoor. Sarah 

Johnson, an adult Blackmoor. 
1786. Feb. 10. James Murray Clans, an adult Blackmoor. 

Returning from the Vestry Room to the interior of the 
Church, the east window first attracts our attention. It 
consists of three Hghts, the centra' one of which is a repre- 
sentation in stained glass of our Lord bearing His Cross. 
One of the side hghts contains the figure of St. John the 
EvangeHst, the other that of St. Paul. Mr. Walcott states 
that the central figure " is said to have been brought from 
some ancient Church in Rouen," and a loose paper, inserted 
in the Vestry minute book for 18 18, bears the inscription, 
" this figure was formerly in one of the windows of the 
Great Church in Rouen." The figure of St. John the Evan- 
gelist was presented by Mr. Thomas Green in April, 181 3 ; 
that of St. Paul was given by the same gentleman in 1818 ; 
and that of our Lord was purchased by the Vestry for £^2 
in June of the same year through Mr. Green's instrumenta- 
lity. The list of Benefactions states that the two figures 
given by Mr. Green came from " the Old Church at Rouen." 
From this, together with the artistic resemblance, it may not 
be improbable that all three parts of the window were 
brought from Normandy. The window was formed and 
completed at the expense of the Church funds in 1818. 

In February, 1827, Mr. Simon Stephenson, solicitor and 
vestry clerk to the Joint Vestries of St. Margaret and St. 
John, presented a valuable painting as an Altar-piece. Mr. 
Walcott says that this work "although attributed to Morales, 
is more likely to have been the work of Francisco Ribalta, 
a Spanish artist, born in 1551." Mr. Stephenson's letter to 
the Vestry, which must have escaped Mr. Walcott's notice, 

leaves no doubt as to the facts : — 

Great Queen Street, 
yth February., 182^. 
Dear Sir, — As there will be a Meeting of the Vestry of your 
parish to-morrow, I have taken the liberty of sending to the 
Vestry Room a copy which I have caused to be made, of the 



Chancel ivindoivs. Font. 59 

admired painting by Murillo, of Christ bearing the Cross, which 
decorates the Altar of Magdalen College Chapel, Oxford. It has 
been executed bj^ Mr. John Bridges, of that city, an artist of 
acknowledged merit. 

If the gentlemen of the Vestry should deem it worthy to supply 
the want of a painting at the Altar of their beautiful Church, I 
beg the favour of you to present it to them for their acceptance, 
as a small token of my respect, and an acknowledgment of the 
distinguished kindness I have invariably experienced from them. 
I have the honour to remain, (Sic, 

(Signed) Siimn- Stkphknson. 
Charles \V. Hai.lett, Esq., 

Churchwarden of Si. JoJiiis. 

The Rector, the Rev. H. Holland Edwards, then residing 
at Llanwrst, in North Wales, was consulted before the 
Vestr}' accepted the gift ; but not having replied to the 
letter, the Vestry passed a profuse resolution of thanks to 
the donor for his splendid addition to the embellishments 
of the Church, expressive of their high admiration of the 
talent of the artist and the taste of his patron, and ap- 
pointed a Committee to wait upon Mr. Stephenson " to 
mark in an especial manner the feelings of the Vestry on 
the occasion." The picture, which is concealed by the 
draping of the Altar during certain of the Church Festivals, 
v\ as hung under the personal supervision of the artist. 

On the north and south sides of the chancel are two 
stained glass windows which can only be seen from the in- 
terior of the Church by approaching the altar rail. These 
were given by Mr. (afterA\ards Sir) H. A. Hunt and his 
brother in memory of their parents. Mr. Hunt also pre- 
sented the very elegant font and the rails enclosing it. It 
was erected in 1847 from a design by Mr. Charles Barry, 
jimior. The carving was the work of the celebrated John 
Thomas, of Lambeth, the sculptor to the Hou.sc of Commons, 
and the artist of the lions at the Menai Ikidge. The font is 3 
feet 10 inches high, 3 feet 2 inches in diameter at the top, and 
is of solid white statuary marble, standing on a step of 
Anstone. The pedestal supporting the bowl is fluted, and 
ri.scs from a plinth of Sicilian marble. At the four corners 



6o MoJiioncuts. 

of the bowl are winged demi-angels, with their arms crossed 
upon their breasts or their hands joined in prayer, and the 
rim is ornamented by a leaf moulding. 

Having already noticed the organ in the west gallery and 
the circumstances under which it was built {see p. 48), we 
return to the east end of the south aisle to commence a 
survey of the monuments, and to note the inscriptions 

thereon. 

MONUMENTS. 
In the Soicth Aisle ^ East end. 
"■'I. "David Green, Esq., forty years an inhabitant of this parish ; 
during which period he served various parochial offices, and 
was a hljeral contributor to the several charities. An affectionate 
husband, a tender father, and a faithful friend. He departed 
this life the 5th day of February, 1837, aged "j-^P 
Memento Jtonio quia cinis es. 
[A marble tablet on a slate slab, Poole, fecit]. 
*2. "Joseph Bennett, for thirty-six yeais an inhabitant of this 
parish, who departed this life October 30th, 1841, aged 60 
years." 

[A marble tablet on a slate slab, Patent Works, Esher-street, Westmr-] 
3. " In the churchyard of this parish is laid all that was mortal of 
of Jane, wife of the Rev^- John Jennings, M.A., the rector 
of this parish, who died September 20th, 1833. Through the 
merits and mercies of her Blessed Redeemer she waits in hope 
of a joyful resurrection." 

[A small brass on a slate slab.] 
*4. ' Stephen Cosser, Esq., one of the Justices of the Peace and a 
Deputy Lieutenant of the County of Middlesex ; whose life 
was as distinguished by the confidence, as his death by the 
regrets of his friends ; and whose private virtues, alas ! will be 
feelingly recollected, though inadequately recorded on this 
mute tribute of Gratitude. Born at Edinburgh, 2nd Febry., 
1754. Buried at Chichester, 2nd July, 1806." 
[A fine marble tablet, ornamented with fasces encircled by a wreath 
of oak-leaves, and by the Arms of the deceased — l. Or; between 
three horses' heads sable, on a chevron, three mullets O)' 2. Party 
per pale. Gules ; between three crosses fitchees, a chevron 
argent. Or ; three estoilles issuant from crescents gules.- — 
Westmacott, junr. , fecit.] 
5. " Erected by many attached friends in affectionate Remembrance 
of Susan O'Brien Smith, who died 24 February, 1879, and 
of Louisa Stone Smith, who died 5 June, 1S79, beloved 
daughters of Henry Stone Smith." 

" Fello'w helpers to the truth.'" 
[Recessed brass tablet within carved arch.] 



Monuments. 6\ 

6. " Henry Stone Smith, only son of Capt. John Langdalc Smith, 

R.N., and SARAH, his wife. For 86 years an inhabitant of this 
parish, born 1795, <-^'ed i88i. He was for 34 years Chief Clerk 
of the Parliament Office, House of Lords, having' spent 63 
years in the Public Service. He lived in honour and he died 
in peace. Erected by his surviving daughters and grand- 
daughters.'' 

[Recessed marble tablet within carved arch identical in form with No. 5.] 
Af the West cud. 

7. The \'en. John Jennings, M.A., Archdeacon of Westminster 

for fifty-one years rector of this parish. Died March 26th, 
1883, in the 85th year of his age. 

[A fine marlile monument with a faithful and well executed bust of 
the Archdeacon in basso relievo. — R. Belt, S^-] 
In the North Aisle., West oid. 
*8. George Henry William Knyvett, youngest son of Charles 
Knyvett, Esq''*^, of Sonning, Berks. During the last three 
years of his life, he was resident in this parish, where the 
efforts of his fervent charity, and of his unwearied devotion of 
time and labour to the cause of religion, \\ill long survive him. 
He died on the 27th November, 1840, in the 28th year of his 
age, to the great grief of his family, and of the many attached 
friends, who have dedicated this humble tribute to his memory. 
[An elegant marble monument ornamented with a relicz'o of hi.s 
likeness.] 

/;/ the North Aisle., East end. 
10. "Lewis Hertslet, for 58 years a resident in this parish. Died 
15 March, 1870, aged 82. Mary Spencer Hertslet, his 
beloved wife, Died 14 Feb., 1871, aged 61. 
[Recessed marble tablet.] 
And on a small tablet below — 

Hannah Harriet Jemima Hertslet, first wife of the 
above, died 23rd August, 1828. 
\\. "John Morris, Esq., of this parish, whose worth and integrity 
secured for him the appointment of chief clerk under six 
successive Lord Chief Barons of the Court of Exchequer, at 
Westminster. He died February, 3rd, 1850, aged 86 years, 
universally respected and regretted." 

[Marble tablet on wood— H. Cuttill, Ilolloway.] 
12. "By his pupils and fellow teachers in the Sunday .School this 
tablet is erected as a humble tribute of respect and affection 
to the memory of Robert Hall, M.A., Barrister-at-Law, 
Recorder of Doncaster, Member of Parliament for the Borough 
of Leeds, and for 20 years a teacher in the Tufton-street 
Sunday School. Born 15th November, 1801. Died 26th 
May, 1857." 
" Not slotliful in business ; fcrucnt in spirit., scr7'i/ii^ the Lord" — 

Rom. XI I., 2. 



62 Monuuients. 

-•'13. "George Tatton, late of this parish. Died 7th July, 1838, 
aged 85 ; also Mrs. Elizabeth Tatton, died Jany. 17, 1854, 
aged 91. 

[Marble tablet on a slate slab, identical in form with No. 15 — 
J. Gibbs, Millbank-st.] 

*I4. " Mr. John Bacchus and his family late of this parish, who hath 
given and left in, trust with the Churchwardens undernamed 
Four hundred pounds Three per cent. Consolidated Annuities, 
the Interest arising therefrom is to keep this inscription and 
the tomb of the family which is in the Burying Ground of this 
Church in Repair when needful, and when Repairs are not 
wanting the whole Interest arising from the same is to be 
given to Ten Poor Housekeepers of this parish of St. John 
the Evangelist by the Church Wardens for the Time being, 
and at their discretion upon every Christmas Day. 

Willm. Barret, Esq., "> ^-i i wt 1 .-,^^ 

' \ Church Wardens, 1777. 

John Williams, ' 

[A plain marble tablet.] 

♦15. " Mrs. Elizabeth Mary Hawkes, wife of Mr. Richard Parker 
Tillotson, and daughter of George and Elizabeth Tatton, late 
of this parish. Died 29 September, 1827, aged 47. 

16. " Richard Foot, of Parliament Place, in this parish, died 
2 January, 181 7, aged 71 ; also Mary, relict of the above, 
died 8th August, 1834, aged 84 ; also Richard, died 27th June, 
1818, aged 4 months ; Ellen, died loth October, 1834, aged 5, 
children of John and Charlotte Foot, and grand-children of 
the above. 

*i7. "Joseph Wood, for.thrty-six years an inhabitant of this paris'h, 
died 28th day of June, 1828, at his residence, St. Michael's 
Terrace, Stoke, Devon, aged 62 years.'"' { TJicn folUnos an 
eulogistic inscripiioti.) 

[Freestone tablet by R. Johnson.] 

In tlic South Gallery. 
*i8. " Mr. Hall Wake, late of Millbank-street, stone and marble mer- 
chant, who was many years a select vestryman of this parish 
and by the courtesy of his neighbours was successfully nomi- 
nated and appointed to execute all the various parochial 
commissions and offices. Died 17 day of July, 1827, aged 59 
years. 

[A heavy stone monument, with a draped urn on truncated column. — 
Wood, sculp., Bristol.] 

* 19. Richard Farwell, esc[uire, a Native of this City, a sincere Chris- 
tian, a worthy Magistrate, a true Friend, especially to our 
happy Constitution in Church and State. His remains are de- 
posited in St. Margaret's Church, to A\'hich Parish and to this 



MoHHiiients. 63 

also He was both living and dying very Beneficent. In respect 
to his Memory this Monument is put up. But his good Works 
will more certainly perpetuate the Name of so pious a man. 
Ob. 25 Feb., 1747. ^t. 70. 

[A large monument, with a draped urn and weeping cherul). Walcott 
mentions the Arms — '■'■Sable ; between three cockle-shells rtr^v;/;", 
a chevron engrailed of the second " — hut this ornamentation, 
which was no doubt only painted on the marble escutcheon, has 
disappeared]. 

20. Edward Harrack, born i8th October, 1798, died 25 June, 1861. 
[A brass mural plate]. 

/// the North Gallery. 

"21. Jane Sheppard, died 19th August, 1844, aged 41 years. 

*22. ViRO Reverendo Roberto Pool Finch, S.T.P., Ecclesia: 
Divi. Petri Collegii Westnionasteriensis Canonico, hujus 
ParochifE Pastori fidissimo, sacrum, vita ejus e.\imia Religionis 
Christianit, exemplar proposuit, imitabile ; quod docuit, id 
exornavit, pius, probus, benevolus ; natus MDCCXXIV' ; 
denatus MDCCCIII. Nesnon Luciiu uxori optimit ; obiit 
anno Christi MDCCXCVI, ittatis LXIX. 

[A marble monument by Nollekens ; Arms — Or : between three 
griffins passant sahk, a chevron of the second, charged with a 
shield (?;-; Ijetween three trefoils slipped sable, s. chttyxon gtiles. 
Mo/ to — Doctus iter melius.] 

23. Thomas, sixth son of William Freeman, Esq'^, of Millbank- 
street, Westminster, who died loth January, 1865, aged 36 
years, in hope of eternal life. To record their regret at the 
early death of one who endeared himself to all classes by 
his amiable bearing and active benevolence, many friends and 
neighbours have erected this tablet. 

[Pedestal surmounted by a Latin cross in basso relievo ; Arms ; 
Motto — Vigilans et gratus.] 

(Those marked roil h an asterisk are mentioned by IValeott.) 

In pursuance of an order of the Vestry on the 15th May, 
1800, the following inscription was placed on the front of 
the western gallery, nearly above the font: — 

" In Commemoration of their Majesties King Cicorge the Third and 
Queen Charlotte having on the 22nd day of March, 1800, conferred 
on the Noble Family of Grosvenor the high honour of being Sponsors 
in this Church, by their Proxies the Earl Fauconberg and the Countess 
of Harcourt, together with the Lord Grey dc Wilton in person, to 
Thomas, the second son of Lord Viscount Belgrave. The ceremony 
was performed by his Grace John, Archbishop of Canterbury." 



64 A verlwsc iiiscription. 

As originally proposed, the inscription was to have taken 
the following form : — 

This Tablet is Erected 

To commemorate the pious Benignity of 

Their August Majesties : 

King George the third, and 

His Consort Queen Charlotte ; 

Who, on the 22nd day of March. 1800, 

IN THIS CHURCH 

Conferred a singular honour, upon 

The Noble family of Grosvenor : 

In becoming Sponsors at this Baptismal Font ; 

By their Proxies, 

The Earl of Fauconberg, and the Countess of Harcourt, 

With Lord Grey de Wilton, in Person : 

For Thomas, the infant Son of 

Lord Viscount Belgrave. 

The Ceremony was performed 

By His Grace, the Arch Bishop of Canterbury ; 

And considered by the Rector, Churchwardens 

And Vestry of this Parish 

As an event so exemplary : 

That they unanimously voted this Record ; 

In the hope that it will have an influence 

Upon the minds of Parents, of every Rank, 

To the remotest Posterity. 

From the fact that the writer in the J.ondon 
Magazuic in 1825 [see p. 51), does not refer to the inscrip- 
tion, it may have been obliterated in connection with the 
works described in that notice. If not at that time, it must 
have disappeared in 1844, in the course of the re-decoration 
requisitioned by Archdeacon Sinclair. It existed in 1807,* 
but several of "the oldest inhabitants" who have been con- 
sulted upon the subject, have no recollection of having seen 
the inscription. 

The church was the first in London lighted b}- gas. The 
proposal, which included warming, was made to the Vestry by 
the Gas Light & Coke Company on 14th October, 181 3, the 
charge to be calculated upon the average cost of coals and can- 
dles during the three years preceding. The offer, as accepted 

* Malcolm's Londinitini Kedivwiuii, Vol. IV. p. 168, 



''Dignified ivith this high honour." 65 

in September, 18 14, was limited to the li<jhtin<^. In 1842 
"the Rude Light" was introduced on the recommendation 
of Mr. (afterwards Sir) H. A. Hunt, at an outlay of ;^i90. 
On Wednesday, 12th March, 1800, when St. Margaret's 
Church was closed for repairs, St. John's Church became 
"the Church of the House of Commons," who assembled 
there to a special service held under the King's Proclama- 
tion for the observance of the day as one of solemn fast and 
humiliation.* The sermon was preached by the Rev. Arthur 
Onslow, D.D., Dean of Worcester, and was afterwards 
printed.-f- Application for the accommodation was made 
to the Vestry by Mr. Speaker on 7th February preceding, 
when the pew reserved to "the Churchwardens who ha\-e 
passed the chair," was ordered to be specially set apart for 
the Speaker, and to be curtained and upholstered in crimson 
damask. 

Before leaving the Church we must not omit to notice a very 
fine slate tablet, in a massive carved oak frame, at the west end 
of the Church on the north side, inscribed with a list of the 
BENEFACTIONS. 
24th December, 1757. 
Sir John Crosse, Bart., towards defraying the expense 

of the new Galleries in the Church ... ... ... ^100 

19th November, 1777. 
Mr. John Bacchus, ^400, Three per Cent. Consols, the 
interest whereof to be given to ten poor people upon 
every Christmas-day, in equal proportions, except 
what may be expended in keeping the Monument 
and Tomb of the said Mr. Bacchus, clean and in 
good order ... ... ... ... ... ... ^400 

23rd June, 1782. 
Edward Dickinson, Esq., to the Rector for the time being 
of this Parish, one-third part of the Interest of ^5,000, 
Three per Cent. Consols in trust, to be by him dis- 
tributed yearly for ever amongst three couples who 
shall have been married twelve months next before 
the time of distribution in Easter Week ... ... ^5,oco 

* Hume says: "The deficient harvest this year and the consequent hit;h 
price of bread occasioned much distress and discontent, attacks on the farmers, 
millers, and corn dealers were frequent and riots occurred in London." 
t " Clentleman's Magazine," Vol. Ixxi,, P.u-t I., p. i p. 

E 



66 Benefactions. 

8th February, 1787. 
Godsalve Crosse, Esq., a Picture of the Ruins of this 
Church, after the fire on Sunday, 26th September, 
1742. 

14th March, 1806. 
Mr. James Allen and Mr. William Ginger, Church- 
wardens, an Iron Chest to deposit the Church Plate 
and other articles in. 

23rd April, 1 81 3, and 12th February, 1818. 
Mr. Thomas Green, the Figures of St. John the Evange- 
list and St. Paul on Stained Glass from the Old 
Church at Rouen, now placed in the East Window 
of this church. 

1 2th February, 1827. 
Simon Stephenson, Esqre., a large Painting hand- 
somely framed as an Altar Piece for this Church, 
from the celebrated Picture by Murillo, in the Chapel 
of Magdalen College, Oxford, of Christ bearing the 
Cross. 

1847. 
Mr. Henry Arthur Hunt, a new Font with Railing. 

1864. 
Mr. James Hunt ) Towards the Fund for Repairing/ ^^500 
Mr. John Fowler / this Church \ ^100 

1866. 
Rebecca Alldridge, Widow, ^231 os. 5cl. Consols. The 
Interest to be given annually by the Rector, to two 
or more married couples, in the Parish of St. John, 
who have lived together in love and harmony, 
sojjcrly, respectably, and industriously for 3 years 
and upwards ^231 o 5 

Thos. Horn ) Churchwardcfis. 
T. H. Hartley .) 1864. 

Cojitiujiation Tablet over entrance to I'estry Room. 

Robert Stafford, Esq. (formerly an Inhabitant of the 
Parish), bequeathed by his W^ill dated June 23rd, 
1865, the sum of /400 to the Rector and Church- 
wardens for the time being of St. John the Evange- 
list, Westminster, upon trust, to invest the same and 
to divide the Interest thereof on Xmas day in every 
year between ten of the Poor Inhabitants of the said 
Parish whom they shall think proper objects. 

The sum of /400 is invested in New 3 per Cent, 
^^o'^ks i,434 3 10 



The Clock; the Vaults. 6y 

As we withdraw with admiring eyes still lingering on this 
enduring record of our forefathers' liberality, our attention 
is drawn elsewhere by the striking of the clock above, 
warning us of Time's ' ceaseless course.' The church clock, 
which is in the centre of the pediment on the east side, was 
supplied anci fixed by public subscription among the in- 
habitants, at the instance of Mr. Robert Stafford in 1843. 
The dial was illuminated nightly until the year 1849, when 
the lighting was discontinued on the ground of expense. 

On our way out by the staircase leading from the Vestry 
room to the crypt door on the west side, curiosity prompts 
us to open the door facing that by which we shall leave, to 
look at the vaults beneath the church, and with the sound 
of the premonitory bell still fresh upon the ear, the thoughts 
turn involuntarily to — 

" The knell, the shroud, the mattock, and the grave, 
The deep damp vault, the darkness and the worm." 

YllUNC. 

We are not the first to explore these uninviting depths, for 
the records show that for the first century of their existence 
they were a frequent source of perplexity, and their user 
passed through many vicissitudes. 

The first entry tells us that in 1731 they were let to Sir 
Thomas Crosse, one of the churchwardens, for the storage 
of coals for use in his brewery close by. In 1734, before the 
days of " casual wards," a report was made that the vaults 
had become "a receptacle for vagrants and beggars," and 
an order was passed for the clearance of the same with a 
view to their being again let to the best advantage. No 
tenant having come forward for two years, a labourer, with his 
wife and family, was permitted to occupy the vaults as a 
dwelling on condition that he swc[)t the pavement round 
the church. In 1736 they were let to a carpenter, of Tufton- 
street, for £\2 per annum. Shortly afterwards a movement 
was set on foot to utilise them for sepulture; but this was 
not then persevered with owing to objection taken by the 

E 2 



68 " Borne to that same ancient vanity 

owners of the adjacent houses. In 1741 a more determined 
effort in this direction was made, when it was suggested 
that, as no provision on the subject was made in the 
Act under which the church was built, legal difficul- 
ties might be experienced. The . laymen of the Vestry, 
who remembered that " the law is a sort of hocus-pocus 
science, that smiles in yer face while it picks yer 
pocket ; and the glorious uncertainty of it is of mair 
use to the professors than the justice of it,"* took 
the precaution of stating a case for the opinion of 
counsel. The opinion is not preserved; but from the 
repeated postponement of its consideration an unwillingness 
to act upon it may safely be deduced. In 1743, some of 
the vaults were let to Mr. Charles Crosse, to supplement 
the storage of his neighbouring brewery, at i5"i 5 per annum ; 
and in 1748 a further portion was let to the same tenant, 
at one shilling per butt per annum. In 1781, Dr. Blair, the 
Rector, set up a claim of right in the vaults, and attended 
with his attorney to support his claim. The Vestry 
declined to surrender, and instructed their solicitor to 
retain counsel to defend the action which was threatened. 
The action, which was tried before Lord Mansfield, on 
29th May, 1 78 1, resulted in a verdict for the parishioners.-j- 
The vaults under the steps were let for three years from 
October, 1803, for the storage of wine and beer, at ^16 per 
annum. A committee appointed to consider the possibility 

* Chas. Macklin ; Love a la Mode, 

t The London Chronicle, of Saturday, 2nd June, 1781, vol. 49, page 522, 
contains the following report of the trial : — " Tuesday last was tried before 
Lord Mansfield, a cause wherein the Rev. Dr. Blair, Prebendary of Westminster, 
and Rector of St. John the Evangelist, Westminster, was Plaintiff, and Mr. 
Byfield and Mr. Gayfere, Churchwardens of the said parish, Defendants. The 
action was brought by the Rector to recover a sum of money received for fees by 
the Churchwardens, by virtue of their office, for laying down grave-stones in the 
churchyard, and for rent received for vaults under the church, which had, ever 
since the consecration of the church, been received by the Churchwardens on 
the parish account, in ease of the parish towards paying the Rector part of his 
income settled by Act of Parliament, by a pound rate on the inhabitants, (S:c. , 
and after a full hearing, a verdict was given for the Defendants," 



A grave proposal. 69 

of increasing the space available for burials, in 181 3, 
expressed their regret that the vaults were used for the 
storage of beer, and strongly recommended for considera- 
tion by the Vestry, the possibility of " using them more 
advantageously as cemeteries." No action having been 
taken upon this suggestion, it was revived in 1821, by the 
churchwardens, who urged in support of it, that the vaults 
were " capable of holding 2,500 bodies " ! The last tenants, 
according to the records, were Messrs. Starkey, brewers, 
who paid ;i^5o per annum for the storage in 1822. The 
tenancy continued for some years ; but there is no mention 
of the vaults being let for any purpose after Archdeacon 
Jennings assumed charge of the parish. 




j^O The Rectors. 



Chapter III. 
THE RECTORS. 



" Such men the Church selected still, 
As either joyed in doing ill, 

Or thought more grace to gain." 

Scott 

What's orthodox and true believing 
Against a conscience '{ A good living ! 
What makes all doctrines plain and clear ? 
About two hundred pounds a year. 
And that which was proved true before 
Prove false again V Two hundred more. 

I'UTLEK. 



Provision for Rector's Maintenance. — Condition of the Clergy in 
eighteenth century. — Dr. Gee. — Rev. John Villa, M.A. — Dr. Willes. 
— Rev. Joseph Sims, M.A. — Dr. Blair. — Dr. Finch. — Dr. Vincent. — 
Canon Holland Edwards, M.A. — Archdeacon Jennings. — Canon 
Furse. — The Rector's Rate. 



A S the construction of the Church approached comple- 
tion, the Commissioners and the parishioners be- 
thought themselves that no provision had been made for 
the maintenance of a Rector for the newly-formed parish. 
A petition " of the principal and other inhabitants of Mill- 
bank " was therefore presented to Parliament on 23rd 
February, 1726, in which was recited the facts that the 
church was " finished and made fit for Divine Worship, 
that a dwelling house had been built for the minister and 
that the petitioners were willing to provide a competent 
maintenance, by means of a pound rate, for the intended 
minister and his successors." The committee to whom the 
petition was referred reported having taken the evidence of 
William French and Robert Waldron, Churchwardens of 
St. Margaret's, from which it appeared that such of the in- 
habitants as lived in the new district could not be supplied 



Provision for the Rector's maintenance. 7 1 

with seats in the parish church. A Bill was thereupon 
ordered to be brought in,* and this having been done, the 
Rev. Lawrence Broderick, D.D., Minister of the New 
Chapel (now Christ Church) petitioned against the Bill as 
being prejudicial to his interests, and praying to be heard 
by counsel in opposition to its being allowed to pass. The 
progress of the Bill was thereby retarded for a year. On 
the 22nd March, 1727, a petition was again presented by 
the parishioners, in which they urged " that the new church 
is very much wanted for that the greater number of the 
inhabitants cannot be supplied with seats in St. Margaret's 
Church." The interests of the aggrieved minister having 
been safeguarded, a Bill was introduced and passed in the 
same Session (i Geo. II. cap. 15) by which ;^2,500 was 
granted for investment in land or other securities, and pro- 
vision was made for the raising of ^125 per annum by 
means of a rate upon the occupiers of property within the 
new parish. The Act also secured to the curate of St. 
Margaret's, Dr. Edward Gee, the interest on the;/,"2,500 and 
the produce of the rate, subject to certain payments, and 
conditional upon his " providing or procuring pious and 
learned ministers to officiate in the said new church." A 
provision was also made in the Act (sec. 10) that upon the 
curacy of St. Margaret's becoming vacant, the first rector 
of the new parish should be nominated and appointed by 
the King, and all succeeding rectors by the Dean and 
Chapter. 

The ;^2,5oo were applied to the purchase of ^2,41 8 1 ^s. od. 
Old South Sea Annuities, which produced £72 i \s. 2d. per 
annum. Adding to this the £125 to be levied by rate, the 
income, irrespective of fees, was £1^"/ \\s. 2d. This was 
charged, however, with the payment of £,'^2 per annum to 
Dr. Lawrence Broderick, of the New Chapel, during his 
ministry, and of ^,"17 8.5-. 1 \d. to the curate of St. Margaret's 

* Journals of the House of Commons. 



72 Annexation of the Rectory to a Canonry. 

who should succeed Dr. Gee. The fixed income, irrespec- 
tive of fees, was thus left at £127 i \s. \d., with residence.* 

The Ecclesiastical Commissioners in their Second Report 
(4th March, 1836) stated that the King, having resigned his 
right of appointing to the prebendal stall in Westminster 
Abbey, vacant by the death of Dr. George Holcombe, they 
had annexed it to the parish of St. John, Westminster. 

Matters were placed upon a much more satisfactory basis 
by an Act passed in 1840 (3 and 4 Vict, cap. 1 13), although 
the enactment as to the levying of the Rector's rate re- 
mained operative. Under this new Act, which has been 
described as " an Act for the abolition of unnecessary 
canonries and for the suppression of sine cure benefices," 
reforms of the first importance to the Church in relation to 
her revenues and expenditure throughout England and the 
Metropolis were introduced. Its provisions affecting West- 
minster suspended six of the canonries, and annexed the 
several rectories of St. Margaret and St. John to two of 
the remaining canonries ; and it enacted " that the succes- 
sors of the Rev. Henry Hart Milman and of the Rev, John 
Jennings shall as Canons of the said Collegiate Church be- 
come ipso facto Rectors of the said respective parishes and 
the parish churches thereof" 

As we proceed to collect the scattered and imperfect 
particulars preserved to us of those who have held spiritual 
charge of the parish, we look in vain for improvement in 
the religious condition of the people as we have seen it at 
the time Queen Anne's Commission sat {see page 19), and 
when, in 171 1, several of the Bishops reported to Convoca- 
tion " the great poverty of divers churches in their dioceses 
by reason whereof Divine Service was not performed within 
several of them above once a fortnight, and in some of them 
not so often," Although eighteen years had elapsed since 
the Queen had expressed her great anxiety on these 

* In 1880 the i^ross income was returned at ^^270 and house ; for the 
present year (1892) the vahie is given as £620 gross. 



Condition of the clergy. 7^ 

matters, we find Bishop Burnet describing the state of 
religion as most lamentable, the clergy as "dead and life- 
less, the most remiss in their labours in private, and the 
least severe in their lives." The high churchman Atterbury 
declares that the disregard to all religious places, persons 
and things " had scarcely a parallel in any age," and the 
nonconformist Dr. Calamy, of Westminster,* is found com- 
plaining that " the decay of real religion both in and out of 
the church was most visible." The rule had its exceptions; 
but even the brilliant example of Bishop Ken, whose 
blameless life, holy conversation, unfaltering devotion, and 
fervid, simple eloquence, though acknowledged on all sides, 
left no perceptible mark on the leading clergy. Such 
examples were not to be studied in an age which lent its 
readiest encouragement to controversy and to pluralism. 
We are not surprised, therefore, to read that " it is notorious 
that the Church of this country was never in a more 
inefficient state than during the greater part of the 
eighteenth century. The old school of theology had 
become extinct, and an extremely worldly spirit was 
engendered in the clergy. The clerical habit was gradually 
thrown aside for one more in conformity with the ordinary 
dress of laymen ; and whilst a vast population was 
accumulating, . . few or no attempts were made to 
provide them with the saving knowledge of the Gospel. "f 
Pope, in his Dunciad, published in the year the Church was 
consecrated, wrote : — 

Thence to tlie l^anks where rev'rend l;)ards repose, 

They led him soft ; each rev'rend Ijard arose ; 

And Milbourn+ chief, deputed by the rest, 

Gave him the cassock, surcingle and vest. 

" Receive " (he said) " these robes which once were mine, 

" Dulness is sacred in a sound divine." 

* Dr. Calamy died and June, 1732. 

f Dcbaiy. llislory of the Chunk of Eiii^laiui. 

X A clergyman distinguished for the fairness of hi.s criticisms. 



j?4 " The clergy's bags are lank and lean." 

and hoped for the time when : — 

One trill shall harmonise joy, grief, and rage, 
Wake the dull Church, and lull the ranting stage. 

Dean Swift, who was contemporary with Pope, proposed 
the significant " Query. — Whether Churches are not dor- 
mitories of the living as well as of the dead ? " 

An insight into the condition of the clergy is afforded 
by the following report which is taken verbatim from the 
Gentleman s Maga.:;me, Vol. LX., Part II., p. 665 :— 

" Friday, July 30, 1790. Case 4. An action brought by a poor 
curate against his rich rector. The counsel stated, that the plaintifif 
had a wife and six children, that he did the duty of two churches for 
the defendant, at a salary of 40/ a year, for which the defendant 
received not less than 700/ a year ; that the plaintiff, who wanted 
bread for his family, had applied in vain to his rector for a quarter's 
salary some little time before it was due, and likewise for payment of 
the money he had laid out for him in wine, gin, and other liquors, when 
he came down occasionally to look at his church ; for which he had re- 
fused to pay, though he could assign no cause. The plaintiff, the 
counsel said, was not near in so good a situation as the footman who 
rode behind the coaches of the clergy. 

The judge said, this was a case in which an application might have 
been made to the Bishop for an increase of salary ; and left it with the 
Jury to state what they thought reasonable for liquors. The Jury gave 
a verdict for 16/ i6or.'' 

The brilliant Coleridge, himself the son of a clergyman, 

beautifully records among his Fears in Solitude, written in 

1798, his deep concern that — • 

" The sweet words 
Of Christian promise, words that even yet 
Might stem destruction, were they wisely preached, 
Are muttered o'er by men, whose tones proclaim 
How flat and wearisome they feel their trade : 
Rank scoffers some, but most too indolent 
To deem them falsehoods or to know their truth." 

Macaulay's reference to the condition of the clergy may 
fittingly be called to mind in this connection. He informs 
us that :■ — = 

" The place of the clergyman in society had been changed by the 
Reformation. Before that event, ecclesiastics had formed the majority 
of the House of Lords, had in wealth and splendour, equalled, and some- 
times outshone, the greatest of the temporal barons, and had generally 



Macaulafs reference to the status of the clergy. 75 

held the highest civil offices. . . . There was no longer an Abbot 
of Glastonbury or an Abbot of Reading seated among the peers, and 
possessed of revenues equal to those of a powerful earl. . . . Once 
the circumstance that a man could read had raised the presumption 
that he was in orders. . . . The spiritual character not only 
ceased to be a qualification for high civil ofifice, but began to be 
regarded as a disqualification. . . . Not one parish in two hundred 
then afforded what a man of family considered as a maintenance. 
. . . Thus the sacerdotal office lost its attraction for the higher 
classes. . . . The clergy were regarded as, on the whole, a plebeian 
class. ... A young Levite — such was the phrase then in use, — 
might be had for his board, a small garret, and ten pounds a year, and 
might not only perform his own professional functions, might not only 
be the most patient of butts and of listeners, mig'ht not only be always 
ready in fine weather for bowls, and in rainy weather for shovelboard, 
but might also save the expense of a gardener or a groom. Some- 
times the reverend man nailed up the apricots ; and sometimes he 
curried the horses. He cast up the farrier's bills. He walked ten 
miles with a message or a parcel. He was permitted to dine with the 
family ; but he was expected to content himself with the plainest fare. 
He might fill himself with the corned beef and the carrots ; but, as 
soon as the tarts and the cheesecakes made their appearance, he 
quitted his seat, and stood aloof till he was summoned to return thanks 
for the repast, from a great part of which he had been excluded. 

Perhaps, after some years of service, he was presented to a living 
sufficient to support him ; but he often found it necessary to purchase 
his preferment by a species of simony, which furnished an inex- 
haustible subject of pleasantry to three or four generations of scoffers. 
With his cure he was expected to take a wife. The wife had ordinarily 
been in the patron's service : and it was well if she was not suspected 
of standing too high in the patron's favour. . . During severa 
generations the relations between divines and hand-maidens was a 
theme for endless jest. . . Even so late as the time of George the 
Second, the keenest of all observers of life and manners, himself a 
priest [Swift] remarked that in a great household, the chaplain was the 
resource of the lady's maid whose character had been blown upon, and 
who was therefore forced to give up hopes of catching the steward. 

In general the divine who quitted his chaplainship for a benefice 
and a wife, found that he had only exchanged one class of vexations 
for another. Hardly one living in fifty enabled the incumbent to bring 
up a family comfortably. ... It was a white day on which he was 
admitted into the kitchen of a great house, and regaled with cold meat 
and ale. His children were brought up like the children of the 
neighbouring peasantry. His boys followed the plough ; and his girls 
went out to ser\icc. 

In "Tom Jones" (1749), Mrs. Scagrim, the wife of a 

gamekeeper, and Mrs. Honour, a waiting-woman, boast of 



76 Pluralism. 

their descent from clergymen. " It is to be hoped," says 
Fielding, " such instances will in future ages, when some 
provision is made for the families of the inferior clergy, 
appear stranger than they can be thought at present." 

So lately as the opening years of the present century we 
find Wordsworth, moved by the corruptions of the higher 
clergy, inditing his warning which commences : — 

" Woe to you, prelates ! rioting in ease 
And cumbrous wealth — the shame of your estate ; 

Who will be served by others on their knees, 
Yet will yourselves to God no service pay ; 
Pastors who neither take nor point the way 
To Heaven ; for either lost in vanities 
Ye have no skill to teach, or if ye know 
And speak the word — Alas ! of fearful thing s 
'Tis the most fearful when the people's eye 
Abuse hath cleared from vain imaginings." 

Pluralism was no doubt responsible for the privations and 
indignities to which many of the assistant clergy were 
subjected, and although the Act of 7 Geo. III. invested 
the Bishops with considerable power as to enforcing the 
performance of Divine Service in the churches twice on 
every Sunday, it was not until the Spring of 1832, that the 
Restriction of Pluralities Act removed many of the diffi- 
culties traceable to the system — a system under which 
6,124 parishes were' stated by a noble Lord to be without 
resident incumbents, and which was denounced in the 
House of Lords as " a taint on the whole Establishment." 

We would fain exonerate the Rectors of St. John's from 
the reflections which the foregoing references suggest; but 
when we find a parish subjected for well nigh a hundred 
years to the inconveniences inseparable from the living 
being held by pluralists and non-resident rectors, such 
exoneration is forbidden. Had it been otherwise we should 
not have found Churchill, who was curate of the parish 



An absent Rector and a starving Curate yy 

from 1758-9 to iy6y4, writing in his dedication to 
Dr. Warburton, Bishop of Gloucester : — 

" Much did I wish, e'en wliilst I kept those sheep, 
Which, for my curse, I was ordained to keep, 
Ordain'd alas ! to keep through need, not choice, 
Those sheep wJiich never heard tJieir shepherd^ s voiced 

In his Author also, published in 1763, during the rector- 
ship of the Rev. Joseph Sims, who held at the same time 
the rectory of East Ham, the profligate poet-priest 
writes : — 

" Condemn'd (hke many more and worthier men 
To whom I pledge the service of my pen) 
Condemn'd (whilst proud and pamper'd sons of lawn 
Cramm'd to the throat in lazy plenty yawn) 
In pomp of reverend beggary to appear. 
To pray and stari'c 0)t forty poimds a year.'''' 

From the brief notices which follow, it will be seen that 
some of the Rectors of the parish attained positions of dis- 
tinction in other respects, though some were content to 
delegate much of the responsible work in the parish to 
their curates. 

The autographs of the Rectors have been collected, and 
are reproduced on the next page. It will be obser\-ed that 
the three signatures of Dr. Edward Willcs, the third Rector, 
are given — his usual one before his elevation to the 
episcopal bench, and his official signatures as the Bishop- 
elect of St. David's, and as the spiritual father of Bath and 
Wells :— 



78 




TJie first officiating Rector. yg 

I. — EDWARD GEE, D.D., 1728-30. 

Dr. Gee, who was 71 years of age at the time the church 
was consecrated, was not formally appointed to the rectory, 
but was required to perform Divine service in consideration 
of the provision made in his favour in the Act of i Geo. II. 
(sec page 71). He was the son of George Gee, a shoe- 
maker, of Manchester. Born in 1657, and baptized in the 
Collegiate Church, Manchester, on 29th August of that 
year, he was educated at the Manchester Grammar School, 
and was admitted thence to St. John's College, Cambridge, 
on 9th May, 1676. He graduated B.A. in 1679, M.A., 1683, 
and his D.D. degree was conferred upon him by Archbishop 
Tenison on 8th February, 1695. He was a protestant 
writer of great prominence in early life, and towards the 
end of James II.'s reign took a leading part in the popish 
controversy, in the course of which he published several 
tracts included in the list of works given on the next page. 
He was Vicar of Great Wilbraham, Cambridge, in 1685, 
Rector of St. Benets, Paul's Wharf, 1688- 1706, Chaplain in 
Ordinary to William III. and Queen Mary, Rector of 
Chevening, Kent, 1707- 1730, Minister of the Duke Street 
Chapel in 1708-17, and Curate and Lecturer of St. Mar- 
garet's Westminster, 1724- 1730, during the last two years 
of which he officiated at St. John's. 

Dr. Gee was installed Prebendary of Westminster 6th 
December, 1701, Dean of Peterborough, 9th December, 
1 72 1, Canon of Lincoln, 5th April, 1722, and Dean of Lin- 
coln, 2 1st May, 1722. He had license on the 25th January, 
1702-3, from the Faculty Office of the Archbishop of 
Canterbury, to marry in Lambeth Palace Chapel, Jane 
Limbrey, of Haddington, in the parish of Upton-Gray, 
Hants, spinster, daughter of Henry Limbrey, of London, 
Merchant, and of Hoddington. She died 8th April, 1733, 
aged 66, and was buried in Westminster Abbey. 

Dr. Gee died on ist March, 1729-30, and was interred in 
the Abbey, 



8o D}-. Gees works and fears. 

The following are among the tracts written by Dr. Gee : — 

1. Veteres Vindicati, in an expostulatory letter to Mr. Sclater, of 

Putney, upon his Consensus Veterum, 1687. 

2. An answer to the compiler of the Nubes Testium, 1688. 

3. A Vindication of the Principles of the Author of the Answer to 

the compiler of the Nubes Testium, 1688. 

4. The Primitive Fathers no Papists, 1688. 

5. The Judgment of Archbishop Cranmer concerning the People's 

right to and discreet use of the Holy Scriptures, 1689. 

6. A Letter to Father Lewis Sabran, Jesuit, concerning the Invocation 

of Saints, 1688. 

7. A Second Letter to Father Lewis Sabran, Jesuit, in answer to his 

reply, 1688. 

8. A Third Letter to Father Lewis Sabran, Jesuit, 1688. 

9. A Letter to the Superiours (whether Bishops or Priests) which 

approve or license the Popish books in England, 1688. 

10. The Texts examined which Papists cite out of the Bible for the 

proof of their Doctrine concerning the worship of Images 
and Reliques, 1688. 

11. The Texts examined which Papists cite out of the Bible for the 

proof of their Doctrine concerning the Seven Sacraments and 
the efficacy of them. In two parts, 1688. 

12. The Catalogue of all the Discourses published against Popery 

during the reign of King James II., 1689. 

Dr. Gee also published : — 

1. The Jesuits' Memorial for the intended Reformation of England 

under their first Popish Prince, published from the copy that 
was presented to the late King James II., with an Introduction 
and some animadversions. London. 1690. 8vo. 

(This ' Memorial,' written by Robert Parsons, the Jesuit, was 
originally printed in 1596). 

2. Of the Improvement of Time. A sermon on Ephesians v., 16. 

. Preached before the Queen at Whitehall, Aug. 7, 1692 
London. 1692. 4to. 

Dean Swift, in his Occasional Notes, records that " Dr. 
Gee, Prebendary of Westminster, who had writ a small 
paper against popery, being obliged to travel for his health, 
affected to disguise his person and change his name as he 
passed thro' Portugal, Spain, and Italy, telling all the Eng- 
lish he met that he was afraid of being murdered or put 
into the Inquisition. He was acting the same farce at 
Paris, till Mr. Prior, who was then Secretary to the Em- 
bassy, quite disconcerted the Doctor by maliciously dis- 



" Af/i I not a Prelate of tJie Church." 8i 

covering the secret, and offering to engage, body for body, 
that not a creature would hurt him or had ever heard of 
him or his pamphlet." 

2. — JOHN VILLA, A.M., I73O-I735. 
Son of Peter Villa, of the City of London, was educated 
at Westminster School, to which he was elected in 1684, 
proceeding to Trinity College, Cambridge, where he was 
admitted a pensioner on 5th June, 1687, at the age of 
sixteen. He matriculated on 9th July following, and 
graduated B.A. in 1690. He was for many years preceptor 
to the Princess Royal of Prussia, and was presented to the 
rectory of St. John the Evangelist by King George H., 
his presentation having passed the Great Seal on 20th 
August, 1730. He died early in 1736. 

3. — EDWARD WILLES, D.D., 1 736- 1 742. 

Son of the Rev. John Willes, D.D., Prebendary of 
Lichfield and Rector of Bishops-Itchington, Warwickshire, 
by Annie, daughter of Sir William Walker, of the City of 
Oxford, Knt., was born 6th March, 1693-4. He matricu- 
lated at Oxford, from Oriel College, 26th February, 1708-9, 
and took the degrees of B.A., on 30th Oct., 1712, M.A., 6th 
July, 171 5, and B.D., and D.D., on 8th July, 1726. He 
was instituted to the rectory of Barton-le-Cley, Bedfordshire, 
7th November, 17 18, and was installed Prebendary of 
Westminster on 26th August, 1724, Canon of Lincoln, 13th 
May, 1730, and Dean of Lincoln on the i6th idem. He 
became rector of Bonsell, Derbyshire, in 1734, and on 31st 
March, 1736, was instituted to the rectory of St. John the 
Evangelist, Westminster. Dr. Willes, who held the office 
of " Decipherer to the King," was consecrated Bishop of 
St. David's on 2nd January, 1742-3, and was translated in 
the December next following to the See of Bath and Wells. 

The following quaint account of his marriage is given in 
Reliquicc Hcarniancu, ed. 1869, vol. H., page 89 : — 

"Feb, 6(1718-19). On Monday morning last, Mrs. Jenny White, 

F 



82 The Rectors. The Rev. Joseph Sims. 

daughter of Alderman White, of Oxford, was married in Merton 
College chapell to Mr. Willes of Oriel coll. who is King George's de- 
cypherer, and hath lately got a very good parsonage in Hartfordshire. 
This gentleman is one of the Constitutioncrs., as they are called, and is 
a very great Whig, as is also Alderman White, whose eldest daughter, 
Mrs. Mary White (looked upon as a great beauty, as Mrs. Jenny 
White is also handsome) married a gentleman of University Coll., who 
had little or nothing (though he hath got some preferment since) at 
the same time that she might have had Mr., now Dr., Clavering, who 
hath got about a thousand a year. Mr. Willes and Mrs. Jenny took 
coach and went out of town immediately after they were married." 

Six of their children were baptized in Westminster 
Abbey, where also four were buried. 

Mrs. Willes died on 9th October, 1771, and was interred 
in the Abbey. 

The fire which destroyed the interior of St. John's Church 
happened during Dr. Willes' rectorship ; but the duties of 
his bishopric at St. David's prevented his return to attend 
to the affairs of his parish until six weeks after the occur- 
rence. Having a few months later resigned the rectory, he 
pressed the Vestry for payment of the allowance from the 
rector's-rate for the quarter in which the fire took place. 
The parish purse had become quite impoverished by the 
disaster, and the Bishop's demand was only satisfied by 
one of the churchwardens advancing the amount in arrear, 
;^3i 5s., from his own pocket. 

Dr. Willes died at Hill-street, Berkeley-square, on 24th 
November, 1773, aged 80, and was interred in Westminster 
Abbey on ist December following. 

4. — JOSEPH SIMS, A.M., 1 742- 1 776, 
Was born on 13th February, 1695, and educated at 
Merchant Taylors' School, where he was admitted on 13th 
September, 1706. He matriculated as a sizar from 
Catharine Hall, Cambridge, on 12th April, 17 12, and 
graduated B.A., in 17 14, proceeding M.A., in 171 8. He 
was Chaplain to Dr. Joseph Wilcocks, sucessively Bishop 
of Gloucester and Rochester, whom he succeeded as 
chaplain to the English factory at Lisbon. Mr, Sims, 



" A losing suit against Jiimr 83 

who was instituted to the rectory of St. John the Evan- 
gehst, Westminster, on the 17th February, 1742, was 
installed prebendary of North Kelsey, in Lincoln Cathedral, 
26th March, 1747-8, and prebendary of Eald-street in St. 
Paul's Cathedral on 6th December following. In January, 
1756, he was collated by the Bishop of London to the 
vicarage and parish church of St. Mary Magdalen, East 
Ham, Essex, where he subsequently rebuilt the parsonage 
house at his own expense. A suit by which Mr. Sims, as 
vicar of East Ham, claimed tithes of beans and peas, was 
determined against him both in Chancery, in Michaelmas 
Term, 1756, and on Appeal to the House of Lords in 
December, 1762. {^t.Q.ViWxxx's, Ecclesiastical Law, ^6.. \'j6'^^ 
Vol. H. p. 400). A copy of the printed judgment [Lond. 
1762, folio], is in the British Museum. Mr. Sims married 
in the parish church of St. George-the-Martyr, Bloomsbury, 
on 2 1 St August, 1750, Winifred Stevens, widow, of the 
parish of St. John the Evangelist, Westminster. He pub- 
lished : — 

"A sermon [on Neh. 1 1., 19, — " Whal is this thing that ye do. Will 
ye rebel against the King?"] on Occasion of the present 
Rebellion. Preach'd in the parish church of St. John the Evan- 
gelist, Westminster, on Sunday, September 22, 1745. Lon- 
don : Printed for John Stagg, in Westminster-Hall, 1745." 
4to. 
" Fifteen Sermons on \'arious .Subjects." London: 1772. 8vo. 

Mr. Sims appears to have devoted his attention principally 
to the parish of East Ham, the charge of the parish of 
St. John being entrusted to Charles Churchill, and subse- 
quently to his talented but dissipated son, the poet. The 
senior Churchill was rector of Rainham, in Essex, during 
the time he held the curacy and lectureship in St. John'.s. 

Mr. Sims died at the rectory-house of St. John's, on 
28th April, 1776, and was interred in the churchyard of East 
Ham, where his wife was also buried, 22nd September, 1768. 

5. — JOHN BLAIR, LL.D., 1 776- 1 782. 
Belonged to the Blairs of Balthayock, Perthshire. He 

!•■ 2 



84 The Rectors. An eminent cJironologist. 

was born in 1723 (exact date unknown) in Edinburgh, in 
which city he was also educated. Coming to London at an 
early age, he became usher of a school in Hedge Lane, and 
on the 7th March, 175 1, was honoured by the University of 
Aberdeen with the degree of LL.D. He was in Holy Orders 
in 1754, when the publication of his magnum opis, "The 
Chronology and History of the World from the Creation to 
the Year of Christ, 1753, illustrated in LVI. Tables," brought 
him a world-wide reputation as a chronologist. In Septem- 
ber, 1757, he was appointed chaplain to the Princess 
Dowager of Wales and mathematical tutor to the Duke 
of York. Having been created M.A. at Cambridge per 
Litems Regias early in 1761, Dr. Blair became Prebendary 
of Westminster on loth March of that year, and in the same 
year had the vicarage of Hinckley, Leicestershire, and the 
rectory of Barton-Coggles, Lincolnshire. He was chosen 
F.S.A. on loth December, 1761. In March, 1771, he be- 
came vicar of St. Bride's, Fleet-street, which he resigned in 
April, 1776. He was instituted to the rectory of St. John 
the Evangelist, Westminster, on the 9th July of that year, 
and held simultaneously the rectory of Horton, Bucks. 

Dr. Blair was elected F.R.S. in 1755, in recognition of 
his fame as a scholar and mathematician. His great chrono- 
logical work, was reprinted in 1756, 1768, 1779, 1803, and 
1 8 14, fol., and edited by Sir Henry Ellis in 1844, and 185 1, 
8vo. It was ' revised and enlarged' by J. Willoughby Rosse 
in Bohn's 'Scientific Library,' 1856, 8vo., and Bohn's 
'Reference Library,' 1882, 8vo. 
Dr. Blair also published : — 
I. Fourteen Maps of Ancient and Modern Geography, for the illus- 
tration of the Tables of Chronology and History. To which is 
prefixed a Dissertation on the rise and progress of Geography. 
London, 1768. Large fol. 
2f. The History of the rise and progress of Geography. Lond., 1784. 

12 mo. (A partial reprint of the former work). 
3. Lectures on the Canon of the Scriptures ; comprehending a Dis- 
sertation on the Septuagint Version. Lond., 1785. 4to. (posth). 

Pr. Blair also communicated to the Philosophical Tran- 



Dr. Poole Finch. 85 

sactions of the Royal Society in 1755 (vol. 49, pt. i. pp. 367, 
379) Accounts of the Agitation of the Water at Earley 
Court, near Reading, Berkshire, and at White-rock, near 
Swansea. 

Dr. Blair married at St. Margaret's, Westminster, on 
22nd February, 1770, Ann Persode, daughter of Col. John 
Darby, who survived him and administered to his estate 
7th July, 1782. Nine of his children were baptised in West- 
minster Abbey. 

His death took place on 24th June, 1782, at the age of 
fifty-nine, and he was buried in the Abbey. 

6. — ROBERT POOLE FINCH, D.D., 1782-1803. 
A son of the Rev. Richard Finch, was born at Greenwich 
on 3rd March, 1724, and baptised in the parish church there 
on the loth March following. In 1736 he entered Merchant 
Taylors' School, and at the age of nineteen (1743) graduated 
B.A. from Peterhouse Cambridge, proceeding M.A., in 
1747, and D.D., in 1772. On the 23rd September, 1744, 
being then twenty years of age, he was ordained deacon, 
and three years later was appointed to the curacy of a 
populous parish on the borders of the metropolis. Imme- 
diatclyafter he had taken priest's orders, he was unanimously 
chosen chaplain of Guy's Hospital, which position he held 
for ly years,during part of which period he wasengagedinthe 
curacy of another metropolitan parish. In 1755 he was ap- 
pointed by the Worshipful Company of Haberdashers, to the 
lectureship of St. Bartholomew's behind the Exchange, 
which he continued to hold to the time of his death. In 
1 77 1, Dr. Finch was chosen rector of St. Michad's, Cornhill ; 
and on ist November, 1781, he was installed prebendary of 
Westminster. On the 4th December, 1782, he was collated 
by the Dean and Chapter to the rectory of St. John the 
Evangelist, upon which he resigned the living of St. 
Michael's. He akso held the office of Treasurer to the 
Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge for more than 
twenty years. 



86 TJie Rectors. Dean Vincent. 

Dr. Finch, who was an eminent preacher, and " an un- 
commonly fine and graceful person," published several 
occasional sermons, and was the author of: — 

1. Considerations upon the use and abuse of Oaths judicially taken, 

particularly in respect to perjury. Lond. 1788. Svo. ; 2nd 
ed. 1789, 8vo., 1800, 1807, i2mo., which became a standard 
work among the publications of the Society for Promoting 
Christian Knowledge. 

2. Tracts, containing a Defence of the Doctrine of Regeneration ; 

Advice to Young Clergymen ; Thoughts on the Sovereignty 
of God, etc. Lond. 1793, Svo. 

Mrs. Lucy Finch, wife of Dr. Finch, died on i ith March, 
1796, aged sixty-seven, and was buried -in Westminster 
Abbey. 

Dr. Finch died on i8th May, 1803, and was interred in 
Westminster Abbey on 26th idem. Administration of his 
estate (personalty sworn under ;^20,OOo), was granted on 
6th June, 1803, to his only child, Thomas Finch, Esq., F.R.S. 

Walcott, in his Memorials of Westminster, 1849, p. 314, 
quotes from the inscription on the mural monument 
in the Church, that Mrs. Finch died in 1746 ; but this is an 
error, as will be seen by reference to the inscription at p. 63. 
The age is stated on the monument as 69, whereas the 
Abbey registers give it as 6j. 

7. — WILLIAM VINCENT, D.D., 1803-1806. 
The fifth son of Giles Vincent, an opulent Portugal 
merchant, and Deputy of Lime Street Ward, was born on 
2nd November, 1739, and admitted to Westminster School 
i" 1753- He was elected to Trinity College, Cambridge, 
in 1757, whence he graduated B.A. in 1761. Having been 
chosen Fellow of his college, he proceeded M.A. in 1764, 
and D.D. in 1776. \\\ 1762 he was appointed usher of 
Westminster School ; in 1771 he became second master, 
and returned as Head-master in September, 1788. After 
having held the Vicarage of Longdon, Worcestershire, for 
a few months in 1778, he became, in the same year, rector 
of All Hallows the Great and Less, London. Resigning 



Canon Edivards. 87 

this benefice in 1803, he was instituted on the 31st May 
of that year to the rectory of St. John's, which he held 
until 1806, when he presented himself to the rectory of 
Islip, Oxfordshire, a living in the gift of the Dean and 
Chapter of Westminster, which he held until his death. 
He was installed prebendary of Westminster on 21st April, 
1 801, and Dean of Westminster on 7th August, 1802, on 
the consecration of Dr. Horsley as Bishop of St. Asaph. 

Dr. Vincent was also chaplain to the King, 1771 ; sub- 
almoner, 1784; President of Sion College, 1798; and 
Prolocutor to the Lower House of Convocation, 1802. He 
was author of ' The Voyage of Nearchus from the Indus 
to the Euphrates,' London, 1747, 4to, and published 
numerous other valuable works, translations, sermons, etc., 
from 1784 to 1809. Vol. I. of his 'Sermons on Faith, 
Doctrines, and Public Duties ' was published by his son, 
the Rev. William St. /\ndrew Vincent, in 18 17, and con- 
tained a life of the author by the Rev. Robert Nares, 
afterwards Archdeacon of Stafford ; vol. H. appeared in 
1836, 8vo. 

Dean Vincent died on 21st December, 181 5, and was 
buried on 29th idem in St. lienedict's Chapel in West- 
minster Abbey. 

8. — HOWEL HOLLAND EDWARD.S, M.A., 1806-1832. 

Son of the Rev. Edward Edwards, of Caerhun, co. Car- 
narvon, was born at Pennant, Eglwysfach, Denbigh, on 6th 
November, 1762. He matriculated at the age of eighteen 
from Christ Church, Oxford, on 30th May, 1782 ; graduated 
B.A., on 3rd May, 1786, and proceeded M.A. on 14th 
January, 1789. He was sometime librarian and chaplain 
to the Duke of Marlborough, from whom he received the 
rectory of the Second Portion of Waddesdon, Bucks, on 
31st May, 1794. In 1799 he was nominated to the rectory 
of Pennant, his native town, with which benefice he also 
held the vicarage of Llanwrst, in the same county. He 



B8 The Rectors. Tiventy-one years' absence. 

was elected to the prebendal stall of Llanvair First Portion 
in St. Asaph Cathedral on 19th April, 1799; was installed 
prebendary of Westminster on 31st May, 1803, and was 
instituted to the rectory of St. John the Evangelist on the 
25th March, 1807. On loth April in the same year Canon 
Edwards obtained a license from the Archbishop of Canter- 
bury and the Bishop of London to be absent from the 
parish for twenty-one years. By the same license the 
yearly stipend of ;^ioo, with the use of the rectory house 
and garden, was assigned to the Rev. Joshua Nussey, as 
curate in charge. The pew rents and burial fees being 
sufficient to raise this stipend, no ' rector's rate ' was made 
during his non-residence. Canon Edwards' signature only 
occurs in the Register of Baptisms four times during his 
twenty-six years' tenure of the rectory. 

Canon Edwards married in St. George's Church, Han- 
over-square, by license, on 12th May, 1798, Caroline Palmer, 
of the same parish, spinster, daughter of Robert (? Richard) 
Palmer, Esq., of Hurst, Berkshire, and of Great Russell- 
street, Bloomsbury, many years agent to the Duke of 
Bedford. Mrs. Edwards died on 22nd April, 1834, aged 
sixty-nine years, and was buried in Westminster Abbey. 

Canon Edwards, who resigned the rectory in 1832, died 
on 29th September, 1846, aged 83, and was interred in the 
north aisle of the Abbey. 

9. — JOHN JENNINGS, M.A., 1 832- 1 883. 

Son of John Jennings of Llnest-Hen, Cardiganshire, was 
born in 1798. Educated at Trinity College, Dublin, he 
graduated B.A. in 1820, and proceeded to the degree 
of M.A. in the year 1832. After having held the 
curacy of West Meon, Hampshire, for some years, Mr. 
Jennings came to St. John's as curate under Canon 
Edwards, upon whose resignation he was instituted to the 
rectory on the 29th February, 1832. He was gazetted 
canon residentiary of Westminster, on 9th January, 1837; 



A new order of tilings. Archdeacon Jennings. 89 

became Rural Dean of St. Margaret and St. John, and 
Archdeacon of Westminster, in 1868, and was for some 
years Sub-Dean. Canon Jennings was chaplain to the 
Worshipful Company of Spectacle Makers, and was 
chaplain to the Lord Mayor (Alderman Johnson) in 1845. 

Archdeacon Jennings, who was twice married, died at his 
house, 18, Dean's-yard, on 26th March, 1883, aged eighty- 
four, and was buried at Lyne, near Chertsey, in Surrey. 

Out of respect to his wish, which led him to destroy 
all his papers shortly before his death, no attempt is made 
to indite anything approaching a biographical notice of his 
long and active life in the parish. There are, however, 
many surviving members of his congregation who will 
naturally expect to find at least a passing reference to the 
reformation of the parish, in matters ecclesiastical, which 
was entirely due to his untiring devotion. 

Of the Rectors of St. John's, or 

" Of most, all mention, memory, thought are past — 
But take a sHght memorial of the last." 

Among the many friends of Mr. Jennings, when he came 
to London as curate to the Rev. Howel Holland Edwards, 
was the Rev. Richard (afterwards Canon) Harvey, who, as 
Mr. Jennings came from the country " while yet he wore the 
rose of youth upon him " to enter upon his labours in 
London, was about to leave London to take the rectory of 
Hornsey, then as much a country village as if it had been 
in the middle of Yorkshire. The one was a robust, hearty, 
vigorous young country gentleman, of agreeable presence, 
the other a thorough Londoner. Neither found it easy to 
settle down to the peculiar demands of his parish. Mr. 
Harvey, slow to appreciate the advantages of a country 
life, sighed to return to town ; Mr. Jennings, unable easily 
to reconcile himself to the heavy demands of a London 
curacy, with a non-resident rector, inclined towards the 
country side of life again. An exchange of livings between 
the two young clergymen was accordingly proposed ; but a 



90 The Rectors. Archdeacon Jennings. 

trifling incident led to its being abandoned. They there- 
upon entered in real earnest upon their duties in their 
respective parishes, where they were each permitted to 
labour uninterruptedly for more than fifty years. Much of 
the success which attended Mr. Jennings' early ministry at 
St. John's was due to his unaffected sympathy with the 
young men of the parish — a characteristic which had made 
him deservedly popular in his Hampshire curacy. Here, 
on one occasion, a disagreement had arisen between the 
Rector and " the lads of the village," in consequence of 
their having preferred the physical exercises of the cricket- 
field to the devotional exercises of the Church on the 
Sunday afternoons. The rector had forbidden the use of 
the cricket-field, and had enjoined the sportive members of 
his flock to repair to the Church, and their disobedience had 
incurred the rectorial displeasure. So completely had the 
young curate won the confidence of the lads, that they 
sought his counsel in the situation. Their plea of hard 
work, and ' long hours,' and the harmlessness of the recre- 
ation, in itself so far availed with the young curate, as to 
result in a compromise by which both parties were brought 
to agreement. The young fellows were afterwards to be 
seen on their way to church with their cricketing accessories, 
which they deposited in the churchyard while they attended 
the afternoon service, to be ' pitched ' in the meadow for 
the remainder of the day upon the dismissal of the 
congregation. 

Mr. Jennings applied himself to the duties of his curacy 
with great zeal until the resignation of his rector, and not 
less so after he had succeeded to the rectory. In 1837, a 
prebendal stall in the Abbey was bestowed upon him by 
Lord Melbourne, then Prime Minister. The honour was 
conferred upon him without solicitation or previous con- 
sultation. His first knowledge of the fact was derived from 
the columns of the daily newsjDaper, so that ' he awoke 
one morning and found himself famous.' In 1840 [see 
p. 72), a canonry became annexed to the rectory by law. 



Evening scjincc coinnicnced. 9^ 

It fell to Canon Jennings' lot to assist in the magnificent 
service at the Abbey on the coronation of Her present 
Majesty, when the Queen's contribution to the offertory 
took the form of a large nugget of gold. This treasure the 
Canon purchased at its full value, and had it beaten into a 
handsome cup, which he highly prized. He was the last 
surviving clergyman who assisted at the ceremony. 

During the rule of all former rectors there had been but 
two .services, morning and afternoon, on Sundays. The 
new rector early initiated a movement for the establish- 
ment of a third, or evening service, in which he consulted 
with his parishioners and received their hearty support. 
This brought an unlooked for, though temporary, trouble, 
for the Lecturer endeavoured to assert his right to officiate 
at these popular services. Mr. Jennings found it necessary, 
in order to maintain his absolute authority, to keep the 
pulpit locked until actually required. The beadle would 
then precede the rector up the steps, unlock the door for 
his admission, lock it again, and return to release him on 
the conclusion of the discourse. Although the expen.ses of 
the evening service were partly defra\'ed by the parishioners' 
subscriptions, Canon Jennings for many years appropriated 
towards the fund, upon the condition specified in the 
following characteristic letter, the whole of the stipend 
allowed to the clergy in connection with the additional 
duty : — 

Rectory, Nov. 20, 1S46. 

GENTLE.\n':N, 

Adopting fully the views of those respectable Parishioners, 
who in December, 1834, memorialized the then Churchwardens on 
the subject of an Evening Service in St. John's Church, " in order 
to provide i?icreased religions instruction for the Poor" and being 
anxious to cany out to the best of my humble endeavours 
the principles laid down in the said Memorial, so accordant with 
the spirit of the Gospel, and so beautifully adapted for all times 
and places, but peculiarly so for our Parish, in which the pro- 
portion of the Inhabitants, who can afford to pay for sittings in 
Church, is smaller perhaps than in any other Parish in the 
Metropolis, containing an equally large Population, I now 



92 The Rectors. Archdeacon Jennings. 

address you and request, that you will kindly submit to the Vestry, 
my intention to forego and my wish to give up after next Xtmas, 
the Fifty Pounds which has been annually paid to me since the 
year 1834 by successive Churchwardens on account of the 

Evening Service. 1 have to express my earnest hope, that the 

Vestry will be pleased to give up for the use of the Poor, Pews to 

that amount at all the Services. 1 would respectfully suggest, 

that no alteration be made in the present rent of the sittings that 
may still be let, and that a certain number of Pews either in the 
Gallery or on the ground floor, should be set apart for the Poor. 
I am persuaded that those Persons who pay for their Sittings wil 
cheerfully continue to pay the same rent as heretofore, when they 
learn that thereby they contribute to secure for an increased 
number of their poorer brethren and neighbours, those blessed 

privileges of religious worship, which they themselves enjoy. 

My experience of the kindness and right feeling of the Vestry for 
so many years encourages me to anticipate its ready and cordial 
co-operation in providing, as far as circumstances will permit, 
" increased religious Instruction for the Poor " by giving them 
more accommodation in the Parish Church. 

I have the honour, to be, Gentlemen, 

Your obedient and faithful servant. 
The Churchwardens of JOHNJENNINGS, 

St. fohn the Evangelist., Rector. 

Westminster. 

Having found that the additional service on Sundays was 
inadequate to the growing demands of his parish, the Rector 
conceived the idea of erecting an additional church, and of 
obtaining its endowment. He persevered until he obtained 
his reward in the consecration of the church dedicated to 
St. Mary the Virgin, Tothill-fields, and in the opening of 
the commodious schools attached thereto. 

Impelled by the educational necessities of the poor, in- 
cited by the scope for further Church effort in the now 
teeming population of his parish, and aided by the munifi- 
cence of individuals, Canon Jennings rejoiced to see the 
consecration, within the next twenty-five years, of four 
other churches within his own parish — St. Stephen's, 1847 ; 
St. Matthew's and Holy Trinity, 1852 ; and St. James the 
Less, 1 86 1. The Rev. Arthur Warner, M.A., rector of 
St. Mary-le-Bow, Cheapside, who was for some years curate 
of St. John's, and subsequently vicar of St. Mary's, vincent- 



" His heaven commences ere the world be past." 93 

square, thus concisely sums up " the marvellous work ac- 
complished by Archdeacon Jennings during his incumbency 
of half a century. He found one church, one rector, 
seldom resident, one curate, and one small Sunday school 
in a hired room. He left six churches, each with National 
and Sunday schools, seventeen clergy ; while the popula- 
tion had about doubled. It is, I believe, the best record for 
one life's work, in its own line, that we have." 

In July, 1882, on the completion of fifty years' work, the 
parishioners presented Archdeacon Jennings with a con- 
gratulatory testimonial as a token of their unabated esteem 
and regard, one of the speakers remarking on the occasion 
that " though all had changed in the parish since the 
Rector came, his devotion to the parish and his active 
interest in it, remained unchanged." The aged rector 
replied with emotion that he had always endeavoured to 
show that the relation between a rector and his parishioners 
should be real and true. In referring to the anxieties which 
the necessities of his densely inhabited parish had caused 
him, he was not ashamed to recollect that during the build- 
ing of St. Matthew's Church, he was so overcome by his 
responsibilities as to retire to his room and find relief in 
crying. He could express his anxieties to some extent ; 
but his happiness was simply inexpressible when he 
thought upon what he had assisted in doing in their midst. 

" Needs there the praise of the love written record — 
The name and the epitaph graved on the stone ; 
The things he had hved for, let them be our story ; 
He but remembered by what he has done." 

As already stated. Archdeacon Jennings died at 18, 
Dean's-yard, on 26th March, 1883. On 2nd April his 
mortal remains were placed in the sacred edifice in which 
he had so long and so faithfully ministered. Next morning 
they were borne by way of the West Cloisters to the Choir 
of the Abbey, where the first part of the funeral service 
was read by the Dean, the nineteenth psalm being sung tp 



94 " TJie good man yields his breath." 

the music of Purcell, a former resident in the parish. Sup- 
porting a small group of mourning relatives were the Rt 
Hon. W. H. Smith, M.P. for Westminster, Archdeacon 
Hessey, Canon Gregory, of St. Paul's, Sir Charles Foster, 
M.P., Mr. J. G. Talbot, M.P., Sir G. Goldney, M.P., Sir 
Edmund and Lady Beckett, the Rev. Professor Wace, Sir 
Henry Hunt, and Mr. ex-Sheriff Burt. The Cathedral 
clergy were represented by Canons Duckworth, Rowsell, 
Barry and Prothero, and a large number of the clergy of 
the Rural Deanery of Westminster, who had assembled in 
the Jerusalem Chamber, were also present. A numerous 
deputation from the United Vestries of St. Margaret and 
St. John the Evangelist attended the service, and the South 
Transept was specially reserved for the parishioners of St. 
John's. Upon the conclusion of the preliminary part of 
the office, the coffin was conveyed by road to Lyne, near 
Chertsey, for interment in the family vault. 

The CliurcJi Times, of 30th March, 1883, observed that 
" Archdeacon Jennings was a fervid Evangelical preacher, 
and whilst exhibiting a Welshman's interest in all which 
promised to advance the fortunes of natives of the Princi- 
pality in London, was also much concerned for every enter- 
prise, especially the National Society, which had for its 
object the training of the young in the principles of the 
Established Church." 

Tlie Times, of 28th March, 1883, concluded its obituary 
notice by remarking that " the late Canon, who was the 
patriarch of the Chapter, was a Canon of Westminster 
before the present Dean (Dr. Bradley) had begun the life 
of a Rugby schoolboy." 

If it be true that " man is what he is in secret','' then the 
testimony to Archdeacon Jennings' sterling character as a 
public man, is completely surpassed by the personal 
knowledge of those who were closely associated with him 
in the sacred duties of his office. In the long course of his 
ministry he was assisted by many diligent earnest clergy 



" For the good man never dies." 95 

who, after gaining experience under his judicious guidance, 
proceeded in their turn to preferments in different parts 
of England. Several of these gentlemen have volunteered 
information with respect to their former Rector and his 
parish, thus enabling us to see Archdeacon Jennings as he 
was known to his assistant clergy. A?, a general repre- 
sentation, the following extract is given from some notes 
kindly forwarded by the Rev. Gustavus Jones, M.A., Vicar 
of Christ Church, Forest Hill, who was one of the curates 
of the parish from 1871 to 1882 : — • 

In those days the best work of his life was not doing but done, and 
he looked to his young curates to do what he was too old any longer 
to do himself, and always willing to remunerate them liberally for 
doing. My stipend after a very few years was the very liberal one of 
;^2oo per annum. To the last the Archdeacon took peculiar interest in 
the Sunday Schools — constantly opening them himself with prayer on 
Sunday mornings at 9.30. Among our teachers in my day were 
Lord and Lady Hatherlcy, and Mr. W. E. Tomlinson, M.P. The 
Archdeacon always insisted upon at least two curates being present to 
conduct the weekly Wednesday evening' services. I mention this to 
show in what high regard he held the services of the Church themselves, 
however poorly attended. 

Special facilities were given to the poor to make known their wants 
to the clergy, it being the custom for one at least of the clergy to 
attend at the crypt of St. John's daily from 10 a.m. to 1 1 a.m. to re- 
ceive all applications for relief and notices of sickness. The poor were 
encouraged to be particular as to the baptism of their children by one 
of the clergy attending at the Church from 6 p.m. to 7 p.m. every 
Wednesday and Friday evening. Baptisms were also performed every 
Sunday at 5 p.m. 

The Archdeacon always kept up friendly intercourse with his old 
curates, and he never lost his interest in the five daughter churches — 
St. Stephen, St. Mary, St. James-the-Less, St. Matthew, and Holy 
Trinity — all of which with their Schools owed their origin to his energy 
and ability in carrying through difficult schemes which only a stout 
heart could ever have undertaken at all. Often, he told me, have I 
laid awake at night wondering how I was to meet this liability and that 
in connection with the Churches and Schools in one or other of the 
five daughter parishes ; but to his credit, be it said, every difficulty was 
overcome, and those five district parishes, with the Churches and their 
Schools, carved out of the original parish of St. John, are standing 
monuments, far more substantial than tlie most imposing' etifigy in 
Westminster Abbey or St. Paul's, (i.) to the ability of the Archdeacon 
as an organizer of work and parochial development, and (ii.) to the 



g6 *" Honour to whom honour." 

deep debt of gratitude due to him fiom the teeming population of 
crowded Westminster for increased spiritual opportunities. His treat- 
ment of his curates was always that of a perfect gentleman, and he was 
one of those of whom it has been truly remarked that " the country 
gentleman forms the basis of the character which the Minister of the 
Gospel completes." 

It was his boast that all his curates got preferment, of which truth 
I was the last but not least fortunate illustration. The fact was he 
always availed himself of the earliest opportunity for promoting his 
own curates ; and his letter to me on my own appointment to a living, 
certainly is characteristic, and will, I think, be read with interest by 
many who knew and loved him. 

" My dear Jones, 

The sentiments contained in your letter are grateful to my 
feelings. I am very glad that it has been in my power to secure 
a living for you, as I had always intended to do if I had the oppor- 
tunity. Deeply sensible of your services at St. John's, I devoutly 
pray that in your new and laborious sphere of ministerial respon- 
sibilities and duties, you may be abundantly blessed in your 
mission in bringing souls to that Saviour whose ambassador you 
are. Pray daily more and more for the teachings of The Holy 
Spirit, to enable you to teach those committed to your oversight. 
Never look back, but look upward and forward, strong in the 
Apostolic resolve, " I can do all things through Christ that 
strengtheneth me." May you ever have grace to be diligent and 
faithful in your Master's service, will be the prayer of 

Yours sincerely and affectionately, 

(Signed) JOHN JENNINGS. 

This inadequate tribute to a really good man — to a 
Rector such as the parish had not previously seen — may 
be fitly closed by an extract from one of the Rev. George 
Crabbe's " Letters," published during Archdeacon Jennings' 
early days : — 

" Few now remember when the mild young man, 
Ruddy and fair, his Sunday task began : 
Few live to speak of that soft, soothing look 
He cast around, as he prepared his book ; 
It was a kind of supplicating smile, 
But nothing hopeless of applause the while ; 
And when he finish'd, his corrected pride 
Felt the desert, and yet the praise denied. 
Thus he his race began, and to the end 
His constant care was, no man to offend. 



" Three firm friends" 97 

But let applause be dealt with all we may, 

Our Priest was cheerful, and, in season, gay ; 

His frequent visits seldom foiled to please ; 

Easy himself, he sought his neighljours' ease. 

Kind his opinions ; he would not receive 

An ill report, nor evil act beliexe. 

" If true, 'twas wrong ; but blemish great or small 

" Have all mankind ; yea sinners are we all." 

If ever fretful thought disturbed his breast, 

If aught of gloom that cheerful mind oppressed. 

It sprang from innovation ; it was then 

He spake of mischief made by restless men ; 

Not by new doctrines : never in his life 

Would he attend to controversial strife ; 

For sects he cared not ; " They are not of us, 

" Nor need we, brethren, their concerns discuss ; 

" But 'tis the change, the schism at home I feel ; 

" Ills few perceive, and none have skill to heal." 

Circles in water, as they wider flow 
The less conspicuous in their progress grow ; 
And when at last they touch upon the shore. 
Distinction ceases and they're known no more. 
His love, like that last circle, all embraced, 
And with effect that ne'er can be effaced. 

Now rests our Rector. They who knew him best, 
Proclaim his work to have been greatly blest ; 
Ne'er one so old has left this world of sin. 
More like the being that he enter'd in. 

A portrait of Archdeacon Jennings, from a photograph 
by Horatio N. King, of Goldhawk-road, W., is given on the 
next page. We turn to it with the recollection of Coleridge's 
estimate of that greatness and goodness, those treasures 
and friends which this brief sketch of the Archdeacon's 
career presents to our view : — 

Greatness and goodness are not means, but ends ! 

Hath he not always treasures, always friends. 

The good great man ? three treasures, — love, and light, 

And calm thoughts, regular as inlant's breath ; 

And three firm friends, more sure than day and night, — 

Himself, his Maker, and the angel Death. 



98 



" One tliat feared God and eschewed evil." 




y^'':^^^^^'^^^^^^^^^^-'^^'^^^ 



The present Rector. 99 

10. — CHARLES WELLINGTON FURSE, M.A., 
The present Rector, 

Is the eldest son of Charles William Johnson, of Great Tor- 
rington, Devon, Esquire. He was educated at Eton, matri- 
culated from Balliol College, Oxford, 1839, at the age of 
seventeen, graduating B. A. in 1847, and proceeding M.A. in 

1853. He was ordained deacon in 1848 and priest in 
1849 by the Bishop of Oxford. He became curate of 
Clewer, Berks, in 1848 ; lecturer of St. George's Chapel, 
Windsor, and curate of Christ Church, Albany-street. He 
assumed the surname of Purse, in lieu of his patronymic, in 

1854. He was vicar of Staines, Middlesex, 1863-1873, 
chaplain to the Bishop of Oxford 1870- 1889, and in 1876 
became Principal of Cuddesdon College and vicar and 
Rural Dean of Cuddesdon. He has held an honorary 
canonry in Christ Church Cathedral, Oxford, since 1873. 
He was installed Canon of Westminster, on 19th June, 
1883, from which date also his institution to the rectory is 
calculated, it being held that the installation to the canonry 
rendered a formal institution to the rectory unnecessar}^ in 
view of the annexation provided for by the Act of 1840. 

Canon Furse married at Bonchurch, Isle of Wight, on 
24th February, 1859, Jane Diana, second daughter of the 
Rev. T. S. B. Monsell, LL.D., vicar of Egham, Surrey. 

Canon Furse is the author of: — 

1. Sermons preached for the most part in the Chinches of St. ^L'^ry 

and St. Matthias, Richmond, Surrey. Oxford [printed] London, 
1 86 1, 8vo. 

2. The Parish Church and the Parish Priest. London, 1870, i2mo. 

3. Helps to Holiness, or rules of fasting, almsgiving and prayer 

London, 1873. 2nd Ed. 1875, 8vo. 
4 Ritualism ; a Paper read before the Clergy of the Rural Deanery, 
of Westminster, etc., pp. 22. London, 1889, 8vo. 

A few words on ' the Rector's rate ' may not be without 
interest in days when, elsewhere in the Metropolis, such 
objection thereto has been taken as to necessitate the 
extreme measure of writs of attachment against the mem- 

G 2 



lOO TJie Rector's Rate. 

bers of a Vestry, for refusal to levy such a rate as required 
by law. From 1742 to 1745 the rate was 6d. in the £. 
In 1747 it was \<^. From 1803 to 18 10 it was 2d. It was 
then applied to the maintenance of the fabric of the church, 
a course which was stopped by legal advice. In June, 1752, 
an action of replevin in the King's Bench was brought 
against the Vestry for illegal distraint in enforcing pay- 
ment of the rate ; but in the following October, as the trial 
approached, the plaintiff's solicitor prayed the Vestry to 
stop proceedings upon his payment of all costs incurred 
This request was, of course, acceded to. In 1820 a rate of 
id. in the^ was made ; in 1845 i^ was further reduced to 
five-eighths of a penny, then to thirteen-sixteenths, and other 
fractional parts of a penny, until in 1865 the increasing 
rateable value enabled it to be fixed at 14^ d. in the £, at 
which it continued until Archdeacon Jennings' death. It 
may be added that the present rector. Canon Furse, has, 
without waiving his legal right, not enforced the provisions 
of the Act under which the rate is leviable. 

Mr. Daniel Hipwell, whose very courteous and pains- 
taking assistance in connection with this and the next 
chapter is warmly acknowledged, has kindly contributed 
some additional notes, which have been included in the 
Addenda and Corriirenda. 




" Perhaps turn out a sermon!^ loi 



Chapter IV. 
THE CURATES AND LECTURERS. 



There stands tlie messenger of Truth ; there stands 

The legate of the skies ! — His theme divine, 

His office sacred, his credentials clear. 

By him the violated law speaks out 

Its thunders ; and by him, in strains as sweet 

As angels use, the Gospel whispers peace. 

COWPEK. 



CO far as the registers and the books under the control of 
the Vestry enable them to be traced, the following is a 
complete list of the assistant clergy who have officiated at 
the parish church, the dates prefixed to the names being 
the years in which they first appear in the registers : — 
1728. Thomas Fitzgerald ; was admitted to Westminster 
School, 1710, then aged 15 ; Fellow of Trinity Col- 
lege, Cambridge; B.A., 1717 ; M.A., 1721 ; usher 
of Westminster School ; instituted rector of Wot- 
ton, Surrey, 24th December, 1739, and of Abinger 
nth June, 1743, retaining his lectureship at St. 
John's in conjunction with both these livings. He 
died in 1752. 

1728. Thomas Rowell ; of Trinity College, Cambridge, 

B.A., 1707 ; or Fellow of Corpus Christi College 
Cambridge ; B.A., 1719; M.A., 1723 ; B.D., 1731 ; 
lecturer of St. Margaret s, Westminster ; died 3rd 
September, 1737. 

1729. Edward Moore. 

1733. Charles Churchill (Senior). 

At the time the parish was formed there were two families 
of Churchills possessing property in Vine (now Romncy) 
street ; and at the first Vestry meeting, held on i ith March, 



io2 The Curates and Lecturers. 

1728, Robert Churchill and Thomas Churchill, apparently 
brothers of Charles Churchill, senior, were present. Thomas 
died in September, 1736, at which time Charles Churchill 
had entered upon his curacy in the parish. He had been 
admitted a pensioner at Trinity College, Cambridge, on 2nd 
March, 1725-6, but did not graduate. He was appointed 
Lecturer in 1745, and held both offices in conjunction with 
the rectory of Rainham, Essex. At a Vestry meeting held 
one Sunday — it was not uncommon for the Vestry to meet 
after evening prayers on the Sunday afternoons — Mr. 
Churchill preferred a complaint against Thomas Le Gros, 
the parish clerk, of conduct which " highly reflected on the 
honour of the said Mr. Churchill." The charge was stoutly 
denied, upon which the clerk was called upon to answer a 
second charge " for that he did sett several psalms which 
were sung in church this day, seeming to justify his past 
conduct, and to pervert that part of Divine Service to his 
own wicked purposes." As the result of the enquiry into 
this accusation, Le Gros was " by order of the Vestry repri- 
manded by the rector (Dr. Willes, Dean of Lincoln) and 
asked pardon on his knees of the Rev. Mr. Churchill in the 
Vestry-room." After this condonation, the parish records 
are silent concerning Mr. Churchill until, on 20th January, 
1758-9, they tell of his death, which had taken place on 7th 
September, 1758. 

1737. John Whitfield; son of Rev. William Whitfield, 
of Ludgate, London ; admitted to Westminster 
School, 1718 ; Christ Church, Oxford, matriculated 
6th June, 1722, aged 17; B.A., 1726; M.A., 1728-9; 
Professor of Poetry at Oxford, 1738-41, proctor, 
1739; Rector of Bideford, Devon, 1741 until his 
death in 1783. 

He had great power of writing epigrams, and upon one 
of the most turbulent of his flock, an illiberal and ignorant 
Presbyterian apothecary, with whom it was a point of 



" Some sufficient holiest ivitnesses^ loj 

conscience to oppose the Church of England, he wrote the 

following: — 

Philip of Macedon, 'tis said, 
Had every morning when in bed 
A page, whose salutation ran. 
Remember, Sir, you are a man I 
So, if we small with great compare 
Our present limping, looby Mayor 
Should every morning, night and all. 

Have C or Jonathan to call 

(While each an ear did gently pull) 
Remember, Sir, you are a fool ! 

1738. Peter Durand. 

1745. J Butler. 

1746. Charles Cheriton ; admitted to Westminster 

School, 1735 ; Trinity College, Cambridge, B.A., 
1742 ; Chaplain of the Captain^ 1744- 

1748. Henry Eaton; St. John's College, Cambridge* 

B.A., 1718. 

1749. John Howell. (Sec Addenda and Corrigenda.) 
1758. George Davls, M.A. 

1758. Tiio.NLVS Atwood ; son of the Rev. George Atwood, 
of Taunton, Somerset ; St. Mary Hall, Oxford, 
matriculated 14th November, 1738, aged 16; B.A., 
1742; curate and lecturer of St. Margaret's ; Vicar 
of South Mimms, 1770; died 4th December, 1770. 

1758. Edward Smallwell ; son of John Smallwell, of 
Westminster, gentleman ; Christ Church, Oxford, 
matriculated 22nd June, 1739, aged 18 ; B.A., 1743; 
M.A., 1746-7; B.D., 1755; D.D., 1775; Bishop of 
St. David's, 1783-8 ; Bishop of Oxford, 1788 until 
his death on the 26th June, 1799. He bequeathed 
£\,(xyo to Westminster School, where he was 
educated, and i^2,ooo to Christ Church, O.xford. 

1758. Samuel Evans; son of Rev. John Evans, of Caer- 
marthen ; Queen's College, Oxford, matriculated 
26th Ecbruary, 1754, aged 18 ; died February, 1768. 

1758. Charles Churchill, (Junior); was born in Vine- 



t04 TJie Curates and Lecturers. 

street, in February, 173 1, and sent, at eight years of age, to 
Westminster School, where he was 'admitted' in 1745, 
being " specially designed " for his father's sacred profes- 
sion, as the son afterwards expressed it : — 

" Bred for the Church, and for the j^own decreed, 
Ere it was known that I should learn to read." 

At school his premature growth and fulness, both of body 
and mind, soon attracted the attention of masters and boys, 
among the latter of whom were several who showed re- 
markable literary taste and strong inclination to 'verse 
writing ' or to yield to ' the rage of the day,' as the cultiva- 
tion of such tastes was then regarded. When he was fifteen 
years of age an opportunity presented itself for the display 
of his precocity by the imposition of a poetical declamation 
in Latin by way of punishment for some breach of school 
discipline. He accomplished his task in such a masterly 
manner as to astonish his masters and delight his school- 
fellows. Hutton's Literary Landmarks of London (1885), 
quoting Gilfillan's Life of CJmrcJiill^ gives this sketch of 
the incident : — 

" We can fancy the scene at the day of recitation, — the grave and 
big-wigged schoolmasters looking grimly on, their aspect, however, 
becoming softer and brighter, as one large hexameter rolls out after 
another ; the strong, awkward, ugly boy unblushingly pouring forth 
his energetic lines, cheered by the sight of the relaxing gravity of his 
teachers' looks ; while around you see the bashful, tremulous figure 
of poor Cowper, the small, thin shape and bright eye of Warren 
Hastings, and the waggish countenance of Colman [the elder], all 
eagerly watching the recital, and all at last distended and brightened 
with joy at his signal triumph." 

In competition as a candidate for the foundation the lad 
went in at the head of the list ; but on standing for a 
studentship at Merton College, Oxford, three years later, 
he failed. A variety of causes have been assigned for this 
failure, but no one of his critics has been able to conceal his 
marriage, at this early age, with a Westminster girl named 
Scott, effected in 1748 through the scandalous facilities of 
the Fleet. The interval between his rejection and his 



CJmrcJiill, the satirist. 105 

ordination (for which he was able to qualify without a 
degree), was spent partly at his father's house and partly 
at Sunderland. In 1753, being then twenty-two years old, 
he returned to London for a time. He took deacon's 
orders in the same year, went again for a short time to the 
north, and thence removed to South Cadbury, in Somerset- 
shire, where his father's influence had obtained for him the 
curacy. Here he stayed nearly three years, until, being or- 
dained priest in 1756, he passed to his father's curacy at Rain- 
ham. "His behaviour," says Dr. Kippis, writing in BiograpJiia 
Britannica^ " gained him the love and esteem of his 
parishioners ; . . . What chiefly disturbed him was 
the smallness of his income." On 7th September, 1758, 
Churchill's father died, and the parishioners of St. John's, 
out of respect to the father, secured the appointment of the 
son to the curacy and lectureship. His return to West- 
minster revived his former temptations, so that he soon 
found himself in the midst of embarrassment, with his 
pride humbled, his credit gone, and the support of good 
counsellors withdrawn. In this extremity he forsook his 
wife and abandoned his profession, the latter step being 
hastened, in all probability, by remonstrances from his 
parishioners upon his having exchanged the distinctive 
clerical attire for a blue coat with metal buttons, a gold- 
laced waistcoat, and a gold-laced hat, and ruffles. 

His letter of resignation was as follows : — 

Sir. — I take this opportunity of acquainting you with my inten- 
tion of quitting the Lectureship of St. John's, which I should be 
glad if you would, with the first convenience, communicate to the 
Gentlemen of the Vestry. 

As my stay here is very uncertain, the sooner the vacancy is fill'd 
up the more convenient it will be to me. If you will be so kind 
to let mc know when the Vestry meets, I shall take that oppor- 
tunity of paying my respects to them in person, if possible ; if not, 
by letter. 

1 am, 

Your very humble ser\anl, 
January ihc 4th, ijOj. CHARLES CHURCHILL. 



lo6 The Curates and Lecturer^. 

On loth January, 1763, he wrote to the Vestry: — 
Gentlemen, 

Your unanimous appointment of me to the Lectureship of 
St. John's on the death of my Father, and the continuance of your 
favours since that time, demand my warmest acknowledgements 
and sincerest thanks. These I should have been happy to have 
made in person had I not been unexpectedly prevented, but shall 
take this opportunity of declaring with what a grateful sense I 
recognise the fa\'ours of the whole parish in general, and of the 
gentlemen of the Vestry in particular, and how much, although 
removed from them, I shall ever esteem their favours, and remain 
their much obliged and very humble servant, 



/k^i^u^ )^:£c4yHX^u^ , 



A tutorship which he had obtained in a young ladies' 
seminary, at Queen-square, Bloomsbury, with a view to 
augment his income, was also relinquished, while the Beef- 
steak Club, into which he had been received on the nomi- 
nation of John Wilkes, disgusted at his treatment of his 
wife, and at his relations with a Miss Carr, the daughter of 
a respectable sculptor, of Westminster, whom he had 
seduced, forced him to resign his membership. 

By this time he had given himself almost exclusively to 
the production of satirical verse for which, however, he was 
unable, at first to find a place in the market, and in which, 
too, he narrowly escaped a prosecution for libel contained 
in TJie Conclave^ a satire aimed at the Dean and Chapter 
of Westminster. After two months' close attendance at 
the theatres, he wrote his Rosciad ; and, undaunted by 
continued refusals by the booksellers, took the risk of 
printing and publishing it. In this he made such ' a pal- 
pable hit,' that its pungency and humour, and its rude free 
daring were the talk of every London coffee-house within 
a few days of its appearance. The success in a pecuniary 
sense was no less ; " the pulpit had starved him on forty 
pounds a year ; the public had given him a thousand 
pounds in \.\\o months," Every man of whom he had 



Cluircldll, the satirist. \oj 

borrowed was now repaid with interest, and liis creditors, 
with whom he had compromised at five shillings in the 
pound a short time previously, were now surprised to 
receive the remaining fifteen shillings. With his name thus 
established, he sold ten of his sermons preached in St. 
John's for ^^^250. The success of his following publica- 
tions was marred by his active association with the 
notorious John Wilkes ; yet amongst those who did not 
concern themselves with the private morals of public men, 
he became a popular man. Meanwhile his private life went 
on in all its dissipation, until a sudden desire to see Wilkes 
took him hastily to Boulogne on the 22nd October, 1764. 
Here, within a week, he was overtaken by a fever which 
baffled the skill of the ph}^sicians for a few days, and proved 
fatal on 4th November, he being then in his thirty-third year. 
By his will he left an annuity of £60 to his wife, another 
annuity of ;^5o to the girl who had lived under his pro- 
tection, and he made provision for his two bo)'s. In 
accordance with his wash his body was brought to England 
and laid in the old churchyard which once belonged to the 
collegiate church of St. Martin at Dover — 

" So may lie rest : . . 

His faults lie gently on him I " 

"Hf.nkv viii." 

Boswell mentions that Johnson " talked \'ery contempt- 
uouslyof Churchiirspoctry,observing that it had a temporary 
currency only from its audacity of abuse, and being 
filled with living names, and that it would sink into 
oblivion. I ventured to hint (writes Boswell; that he was 
not quite a fair judge, as Churchill had attacked him 
violently." Johnson: "Nay, sir, I am a very fair judge. He 
did not attack me violently till he found I did not like his 
poetry ; and his attack on me shall not i)rcvent me from 
continuing to say what I think of him, from an apprehen- 
sion that it may be ascribed to resentment. No, sir, I 
called the fellow a blockhead at first, and I w ill call him a 



loS Tlie Qirates and Lecturers. 

blockhead still. However, I will acknowledge that I have 
a better opinion of him now than I once had; for he has 
shown more fertility than I expected. To be sure, he is a 
tree that cannot produce good fruit: he only bears crabs. 
But, sir, a tree that produces a great many crabs is better 
than a tree which produces only a few." 

In a sermon preached at the Church on i8th December, 
1 88 1, by the Rev. William Benham, B.D., then vicar of 
Harden, formerly assistant master of the Bluecoat School, 
and now rector of St. Edmund the King, with St. Nicholas 
Aeons, London, and Hon. Canon of Canterbury, he re- 
marked : — 

I might linger still over the records of this church, over the days 
when Charles Churchill was its minister, profligate of life, violent in 
his animosities, bitter in his satires. Think what a contrast, for 
example, between those times and these. He is conducting a funeral 
in the Horseferry Road burying-ground, is jeered at by a bystander 
who has seen him at his orgies the night before, throws off his surplice 
and fights him then and there in the street, and beats him. Yet not 
a// bad. His own conscience bade him, at least, presently give up his 
sacred functions. And when his political friends came into power, and 
he might have received some rich preferment, the same conscience 
was strong enough to keep him from the wickedness of putting on his 
surplice and gown again. He would not so prostitute the ministry of 
God ; a faithful reflex of some good in ungodly and profligate times. 

The late Rev. Joseph Maskell, master and chaplain ot 
Emanuel Hospital, in his Westminster in relation to Litera- 
ture (1880) thus refers to Churchill : — 

His life affords a melancholy instance of an utterly mistaken voca- 
tion. He would seem to have been forced by his family into a pro- 
fession for which he had no love, and for which he was in every way 
unfit. He succeeded his father as curate of St. John's, and for some 
time observed the outward duties of his calling with decorum, acquiring 
considerable reputation as a preacher. He married, and took to 
literature in order to increase his limited income. His vein was satire, 
a kind of writing which, in the hands of a sincere and generous- 
minded man, anxious for the benefit of his fellows, and no misanthrope, 
has always been productive of great public good. Popular abuses, 
evil manners and customs, are more likely to be amended by means 
of skilfully directed satire than in any other way. But satire which 
is inspired by a sense of personal injustice and the envy of others is 
an unworthy and purposeless weapon. A good deal of Churchill's 
satire is of this character. He offended his much-enduring parishioners, 
his bishop, and patrons, by conduct utterly unbecoming, I will not 



Churchill, the satirist. 109 

merely say the clerical, but the Christian profession ; for the Christian 
layman has no right to a standard of morals lower than that of the 
clergyman ! But Churchill had no sense of decency ; after staining 
his cloth with e\cry vice, he turned round to attack his clerical 
brethren and others in satire, devoting the rest of his life to a bitter 
and remorseless ridicule of his fellow-men. The Dean and Chapter 
of Westminster, Ur. Johnson, and Bishop Warburton, were his pet 
aversions. It is impossible to read Churchill's poetry without feeling 
that he had considerable genius, and that he might have done better 
even as a satirist if he had written less, and with less personal 
animosity. But he wrote for bread ; his pen was always obliged to be 
in his hand, and his satire trenchant and forcible, in order to attract 
attention. He was popular in his day, and will probably never entirely 
ose his place in literature. It is sad, hovever, to think of fine talents 
misapplied, and golden opportunities thrown away. 

The Rev. George Gilfillan, in his Life of Churchill, asserts 
that " in him we find a signal specimen of a considerable 
class of writers concerning whom Goldsmith's words are 
true : — 

'Who born for the universe, narrow'd their mind. 
And to party gave up what was meant for mankind.' 

" We must approach his grave as men do those of Burns 
and Byron, with sorrow, wonder, admiration and blame, 
blended into one strange, complex, and yet not unnatural 
emotion. Robust manhood, honesty, and hatred of pre- 
tence we admit him to have possessed ; but of genuine love 
to humanity he seems to have been as destitute as of fear 
of God or regard for the ordinary moralities." 

" In taking leave of him we are again haunted by the 
signal resemblance he bears, both in mental character and 
in history, to Byron. Both were powerful in satire, and 
still more so in purely poetic composition, lioth were 
irregular in life and unfortunate in marriage. Both assumed 
an attitude of defiance to the world and stood ostentatiousl)- 
at bay. Both felt and expressed keen remor.sc for their 
errors, and [)urposcd, and in part began, reformation. Both 
died at an untimely age, by fever, and in a foreign land. 
The dust of both, not admitted into Westminster Abbey, 
nevertheless reposes in their native soil, and attracts daily 



1 10 TJie Curates and Lecturers. 

visitors who lean and weep and wonder ever it — partly in 
sympathy with their fate — partly in pity for their errors — 
and partly in admiration for their genius." 

Churchill's connection with St. John's had enabled him 
to obtain an insight into parochial life and administration, 
which he thus unsparingly satirised in his Ghost (Book 

IV.) :- 

" Constables, whom the laws admit 

To keep the peace by breaking it ; 

Beadles, who hold the second place, 

By virtue of a silver mace, 

Which every Saturday is drawn. 

For use of Sunday, out of pawn ; 

Treasurers, who with empty key 

Secure an empty treasury ; 

Churchwardens, who their course pursue 

In the same state, as to their pew 

Churchwardens of St. Margaret's go, 

Since Peirson * taught them pride and show ; 

Who in short transient pomp appear 

Like almanacks, changed every year ; 

Behind whom, with unbroken locks. 

Charity carries the poor's box, 

Not knowing that with private keys 

They ope and shut it when they please ; 

Ovei'seers, who by frauds ensure 

The heavy curses of the poor ; 

Unclean come flocking, bulls and bears. 

Like beasts into the ark, by pairs." 

In his dedication to Dr. Warburton, Bishop of Gloucester, 

to which allusion has already been made, Churchill refers 

to the congregation of St. John's : — 

" Much did I wish, e'en whilst I kept those sheep 
Which, for my curse, I was ordain'd to keep, 
Ordain'd alas ! to keep through need, not choice. 
Those sheep which never heard their shepherd's voice ; 
Which did not know, yet would not learn their way : 
Which stray'd themselves, yet grieved that I should stray ; 

* Samuel Peirson was Churchwarden of St. Margaret's, 1749-53, in which 
period a prosecution was brought against him and his colleague for suffering 
the painted window to be placed at the east end of St. Margaret's Church. 
The trial ended in favour of the parish, in commemoration of which Mr. 
Peirson gave a large cup and cover in silver guilt, weighing 93 oz. 15 dwt, now 
known as " the Churchwardens' Loving Cup." 



Churchilly the satirist. 1 1 1 

Those sheep which my good father (on his bier 
Let fihal duty drop the pious tear) 
Kept well, yet starved himself; e'en at tliat time 
Whilst I was pure and innocent of rhyme ; 
Whilst, sacred dulness ev'er in my view. 
Sleep at my bidding crept from pew to pew. 
Much did I wish, though little could I hope, 
A friend in him who was the friend of Pope." 

Nearly twenty years after Churchill's death, his delicate 
school-fellow at Westminster, Cowper, pourtra}'ed him in 
Table Talk in the following lines, with which this fragment 
must close : — 

" Contemporaries all surpass'd, see one ; 

Short his career indeed, but ably run ; 

Churchill, himself unconscious of his powers. 

In penury consumed his idle hours ; 

And, like a scattered seed at random sown. 

Was left to spring by vigour of his own. 

Lifted at length, by dignity of thought 

And dint of genius, to an affluent lot. 

He laid his head in luxury's soft lap, 

And took too often there his easy nap. 

If brighter beams than all he threw not forth, 

'Twas negligence in him, not want of worth. 

Surly and slovenly, and bold and coarse. 

Too proud for art, and trusting in mere force. 

Spendthrift alike of money and of wit, 

Always at speed, and never drawing bit. 

He struck the lyre in such a careless mood. 

And so disdain'd the rules he understood. 

The laurel seem'd to wait on his command ; 

He snatched it rudely from the muses' hand." 
1762. Joshua Kvte ; son of William Kyte, of Shireborn, 
Gloucestershire, gentleman ; admitted to Westmins- 
ter School, 1739 (see p. 32 j; Christ Church, Oxford, 
matriculated ist June, 1743, aged 18 ; B.A., 1747 ; 
M.A., 175 1 ; B.D. and D.D., 1765 ; u.sher of West- 
minster School, 1751-64; rector of Wendlcbury, 
Oxfordshire, 1764, and of Swynecombe, 1787, until 
his death at Cheltenham, 28th November, 1788.*^ 

* Welch's Alumni Westmonasterienses, ed. Phillimore, 1852, p. 328, er- 
roneously states that Dr. Kyte was AViVor of St. John, Westminster, 1758, 



1 1 2 TJie Curates and Lecturers. 

1762. Talbot Keene ; Trinity College, Cambridge, B.A., 
1761 ; M.A., 1770; vicar of Brigstock, Northamp- 
tonshire, 1773; rector of Tadmerton, Oxfordshire, 
1788. He died at Limehouse in June, 1824, aged 
89 years. 

1762. Vincent Hotchkiss ; son of Rev. Thomas Hotch- 
kiss, of Montsley, Salop ; Balliol College, Oxford, 
matriculated 20th April, 1722, aged 16 ; B.A., 1726. 

1767. Thomas Bennett; admitted to Westminster School 
1758, aged 14; Trinity College, Cambridge, B. A., 
1766; M.A., 1769; D.D., 1801 ; minor canon of 
Westminster, 1782, and of St. Paul's, 1783 ; vicar 
of High and Good Easter, and of Tillingham, 
Essex, 1797; Minister of Highgate Chapel, Middle- 
sex, for many years ; published " Twelve Lec- 
tures on the Apostles' Creed, delivered in the 
Church of St. John the Evangelist, Westminster," 
London, 1775, 8vo. He died at Highgate 24th 
August, 1 8 16, in his 74th year, and was buried in 
the Old Chapel there. 

1769. Augustus Montague Toplady ; born at Farnham, 
Surrey, 1740 ; educated at Westminster School ; 
B.A., Trinity College, Dublin, 1760 ; vicar of 
Broad Hembury, Devonshire ; celebrated in his 
time as a Calvinistic divine, and an acute disputant, 
and honoured to the present day throughout the 
Christian Church as the author of " Rock of 
Ages." He died i ith August, 1778, and was buried 
at Whitefield's Tabernacle, in the Tottenham- 
court-road. 

1774. William M. Pow. 

1775. Charles Manning ; of Caius College, Cambridge, 

B.A., 1735 ; incorporated at Oxford, i6th April, 
1741. 
1775. Giles Powell ; of Trinity College, Dublin, B.A., 
1761 ; rector of Acrise, Kent, for the space of 40 



" TJiey may pass for excellent j>icn." 1 1 3 

years. He died suddenly in Northamptonshire in 
October, 1825, in his 88th year. 

^77^- J DOWNES. 

1776. John Hiscox. Died at Dartford, Kent, 17th 
February, 1789. 

1789. Christopher Scott ; of Queen's College, Cam- 
bridge, B.A., 1761 ; M.A., 1764. 

1802. Richard Glover; of St. John's College, Cambridge, 
B.A., 1767, M.A., 1771; instituted to the vicarage 
of Dagenham, Essex, 13th June, 1811. Died at 
Ilford, June, 1824. 

1805. William Davis, B. A. {Sqq corrigenda). 

1805. Thomas Longlands ; of Trinity College, Cam- 
bridge; B.A., 1801; M.A., 1804; vicar of Porchestcr, 
Hants, 1806 ; Vicar of Great Camfield, E.s.sex, 18 10; 
vicar of Damerham, Wilts, 1822 ; died 1 856. 

1810. D'Arcv Hagcitt ; Fellow of Pcterhou.se, Cam- 
bridge; B.A., 1796; M.A., 1800; instituted to the 
vicarage of Pershore, St. Andrew, Worcestershire, 
lOth May, 1825; died at Bruges, 1850. 

1810. Johnson Atkinson Busfield ; of Clare College, 
Cambridge; B.A., 1796; M.A., 1800; D.D., 1812 ; 
instituted to the rectory of St. Michael, Wood- 
street, London, 4th May, 1821 ; died 1849, aged "Jl. 

1 8 17. Charles Wodsworth ; of Pembroke College, 

Cambridge, B.A. 1814; M.A., 1817 ; rector of In- 
goldesthorpe, Norfolk, 1826; prebendary of Port- 
pool in St. Paul's Cathedral, 1828; vicar of Hard- 
ing-stone, Northamptonshire, 1834; vicar of Audley, 
Staffordshire, 1842, and chaplain to Viscount 
Palmcrston. Mr. Wodsworth died 28th March, 
1844. 

18 18. William Johnson. Two contemporary clergymen 

of this name have been traced — the first of St. 
John's College, Cambridge, B.A., 1791 ; the second 

H 



1 14 TJie Curates and Lecturers. 

of St. Alban Hall, Oxford, B.A., 1803 ; M.A., 1821 ; 
instituted to the rectory of St. Clement, Eastcheap, 
19th October, 1820 ; vicar of Mottram, Cheshire, 
1826. Died 2nd December, 1840, aged 72. No 
reliable information is obtainable as to which of 
these two gentlemen held the curacy of St. John's. 

1818. William Johnson Rodber ; curate of St. Mar- 

garet's ; rector of St. Mary-at-Hill, London, 7th 
October, 1825 ; died 1843, aged 53. 

1 8 19. George Stokes; of Trinity Hall, Cambridge; 

LL.B., 181 2 ; Vicar-General to the Bishop of 
Killala. Died, July, 1833. (This gentleman and 
his immediate predecessor severally signed the 
Registers as " Officiating Minister "). 
1825. Joshua Nussev; of St. Catharine's College, Cam- 
bridge; B.A., 1822; M.A., 1825 ; in.stituted to the 
rectory of Poughill, Devonshire, 22nd March, 1837; 
vicar of Oundle, Northamptonshire, 1845. 

1831. Henry Atcheson ; of Jesus College, Cambridge; 

M.B., 1823 ; M.L., 1825 ; ordained deacon, 1828, 
priest, 1830; instituted to the vicarage of Kings- 
bury, Middlesex, 20th December, 1833. 

1832. Jenkin Hughes; fourth son of — Hughes of 

Lledrod, Cardiganshire, gentleman ; of Jesus 
College, Oxford, matriculated 24th June, 1824, 
aged 22; B.A., 1828; M.A., 1831 ; master of 
Abergavenny Grammar School, 1828-32; vicar of 
Alconbury, Hunts, 1838, until his death on the 
23rd April, 1870. 
1835. Philip Parker Gilbert ; of Magdalene College, 
Cambridge; B.A., 1835; M.A., 1839; ordained 
deacon, 1835, and priest, 1837, by the Bishop of 
Gloucester and Bristol ; vicar of St. Mary's, Hag- 
gerston ; rector of St. Augustine with St. Faith, 
London, 1853-7 ; vicar of St. Giles, Cripplegate, 
1857-1886, 



" JV/io, earnest in the se7-vice of their God." 1 1 5 

1837. Henry Lloyd Oswell ; third son of Rev. Thomas 

Oswell, of Westbury, Salop ; of Christ Church, 
Oxford, matriculated loth November, 1831, aged 
18 ; B.A., 1835 ; M.A, 1838 ; incumbent of Stoul- 
ton, Worcestershire, 1843-51 ; vicar of Leighton, 
Salop, 185 1-9 ; incumbent of Bobbington, Stafford- 
shire and Salop, 1859-62 ; vicar of St. George's, 
Shrewsbury, 1866-72; rector of Llandinabo, Here- 
fordshire, 1872-88 ; living 1892. 

1838. Thomas Stone ; of St. John's College, Cambridge ; 

B.A., 1829 ; M.A., 1834 ; admitted ad eundem at 
Oxford 26th January, 1837; curate of Felstead, 
Essex. Died 12th March, 1850. 

1839. Abraham Borradaile ; eldest son of Abraham 

Borradaile, of Clapham ; of Christ Church, Oxford ; 
matriculated 25th October, 1832, aged 18 ; B.A., 
1836; M.A., 1839; vicar of St. Mary's, Tothill- 
fields, 1 84 1, until his death on 30th January, 1873. 

1839. George France ; second .son of William Bcckwith 

France, of Hammersmith ; of Exeter College, Ox- 
ford ; matriculated 23rd January, 1834, aged 18; 
B.A., 1837 ; M.A.. 1840 ; rector and patron of 
Brockdish, Norfolk, 1842 ; living 1892. 

1840. William Tennant ; of Trinity College, Cambridge; 

B.A., 1836; M.A., 1839; first vicar of St. Stephen'.s, 
Westminster, 1847, until his death in 1880. 

1840. Frederick Style; second son of Thomas Style, 
of Thames Ditton ; of St. John's College, Oxford ; 
matriculated 30th April, 1834, aged 18 ; B.A., 1838 ; 
M.A., 1841 ; Head-master of Thames Ditton 
School ; vicar of Leigh, Surrey, 1878, until his 
death on 2nd January, 1884. 

1840. James Bandinel ; only son of James Bandinel, of 
Chelsea ; of Wadham College, Oxford; matriculated 
30th March, 1833, aged 18; B.A., 1836; M.A. 

H 2 



1 1 6 TJie Curates and Lecturers. 

1844; vicar of Cogges, Oxford, 1856-62; rector 
of Elmley (or Emly), Yorkshire, 1863-81 ; living 
1892. 

1843. Henry Stretton ; eldest son of Henry Stretton, 
of St. Luke's, Middlesex, gentleman ; of Magdalen 
College, Oxford ; matriculated 24th April, 1839, 
aged 24 ; B.A., 1843 ; M.A., 1846 ; Head-master 
of St. Alban's Grammar School, 1866-70; vicar of 
Eastville, Lincolnshire, 1876 ; joint author with the 
Rev. Sir W. H. Cope, Bart., of Visitatio Infirinoruin 
' Offices for the Clergy,' etc., 3 editions, 1848. 

1843. William Jephson ; of Corpus Christi College, Cam- 
bridge; B.A., 1841; M.A., 1847; rector of Hinton- 
Waldrist, Berkshire, 1853-80 ; Diocesan inspector 
of schools. Diocese of Oxford, 1856-/6 ; Rural 
Dean of Vale of White Horse, 1876-7 ; chaplain at 
Geneva, 1877-81 ; living 1892. 

1846. James Langton WiCxLESWORTH ; of Magdalene 

College, Cambridge; B.A., 1846; M.A., 1850; 
curate of Hanslope-with-Castlethorpe, Bucking- 
hamshire, 1869. 

1847. Charles Felton Smith; of Queen's College, 

Cambridge; B.A., 1839; M.A., 1854; domestic 
Chaplain to Viscount Combermere, 1840; incum- 
bent of St. John's, Pendlebury, 1843 I vicar of 
Crediton, Devon, 1854; prebendary of Exeter, 
1856 ; living 1892. 

1849. Alfred Jones; of King's College, London ; Theo- 
logical Associate, 1849; created B.D. by Arch- 
bishop of Canterbury, 1877; chaplain of Aske's 
Hospital, 1854-74 ; secretary of the Sunday Rest 
Association, 1860-76; vicar of Carrington, Cheshire, 
1877-82. 

1849. William Henry Davies ; chaplain of St. George's 
Hospital, 1859. (See corrigenda^ ' 



"■All agreeing in earnestness." 117 

1849. John Back ; second son of John Back, of St. Giles, 
Cripplegate ; of Trinity College, Oxford ; matricu- 
lated 19th May, 1845, aged 18; B.A., 1849; M.A., 
1852 ; rector of St. George-the-Martyr, Blooms- 
bury, 1858-77; vicar of Horsell, Surrey, 1878-84. 
Died in August, 1891, and was buried at Horsell. 

1853. Laurence William Till; eldest .son of Richard 

Till, of Clapham, gentleman ; of Pembroke College, 
Oxford ; matriculated i6th November, 1848, aged 
20; B.A., 1852; M.A., 1856; vicar of Chertsey, 
1857-73 ; and of St. Paul's, p:ast Moulsey, 1873, 
until his death, 6th October, 1878. 

1854. Henry Edmund Phillips; vicar of Chri.st Church, 

Leeds, 1859; died 15th June, 1859, aged 28. 

1854. William Henry Turle. (See "St. Matthew's, 
Great Peter-street," Chapter VHI.) 

1859. Henry Warwick Hunt; of Trinity College, Cam- 
bridge; B.A., 1858; M.A., 1861 ; curate of St. 
Anne's, Soho ; rector of Steppingley, Bedfordshire, 
1869-70; now, and since 1872, rector of Sherman- 
bury, Sussex. 

1865. George Miller. (See " Holy Trinity, licssborough 

Gardens," Chapter VHI.) 

1866. Arthur George Warner; .second .son of George 

Warner, of Horn.sey ; of Christ Church, Oxford ; 

matriculated 3rd June, 1857, aged 19; B.A., 1861 ; 

M.A., 1865 ; vicar of St. Mary's, Tothill-fields, 

1873-87 ; now, and since 1887, rector of St. Mary- 

le-Bow, Cheapside. 
1871. Henry Hugh Beam.S Paull ; eldest son of Henry 

Andrew Paull, of Doctors' Commons; of Magdalen 

Hall, Oxford; matriculated loth May, 1845, 

aged 25. 
1871. GusTAYUS John Jone.s ; of St. John's College, 

Cambridge; B.A., 1871 ; M.A., 1874; now, and 

since 1882, vicar of Christ Church, Iu:)rest Hill. 



1 1 S TJie Qi rates and Lecturers 

1873. Henry Dealtry Thomas ; eldest son of the Rev. 
Henry Thomas, of Calcutta ; of Wadham College, 
Oxford; matriculated 13th October, 1866, aged 19; 
B.A., 1870; M.A., 1873 ; vicar of Longdon, Wor- 
cestershire, 1885. 

1881. Frank Charles Jarvis (now Arnold-Jarvis) ; 

of Trinity College, Dublin ; B.A., 1880; M.A., 1883; 
curate of Ealing, 1883-6; of Petersham, 1886-91 ; 
and since 1891 of Worlabye, Lincoln. 

1882. Charles Reeve Taylor of Corpus Christi College, 

Cambridge; B.A. and LL.B., 1868; M.A., 1872; 
curate of St. Peter's, Berkhampstead, 1869-71 ; of 
Southwell, 1874-5 ; of Christ Church, Ealing, 
1875-7 I St. Luke, Kentish Town, 1878-9 ; acting- 
chaplain to the Forces, at Aldershot, 1 879-80 ; 
St. Saviour, Hoxton, 1880-81 ; lecturer in Public 
Reading and Speaking, King's College, since 1887. 

1883. J H Franklyn. 

1883. Howard Gurney Daniell-Bainbridge; third 
son of Richard Percival Daniell, of London; of 
Trinity College, Oxford; matriculated i8th October, 
1875, aged 17; B.A., 1878; MA., 1882 ; of Cuddes- 
don Theological College, 1879; curate of Shepton- 
Beauchamp, Somerset, 1880-83; now, and since 1890, 
Minor Canon and Sacrist of Westminster Abbey. 

1883. Henry Maitland Ellls; second son of Rev. 
Phillip Constable Ellis, of Penmon, Anglesey; of 
Worcester College, Oxford; matriculated 15th 
October, 1878, aged 18; B.A., 1881; M.A., 1885; 
curate of Moordown, Hampshire, 1885-7, ^i^d since 
1887 curate of Beaulieu, Hampshire. 

1883. Edmund George Lionel Mowbray; third son 
of Sir John Robert Mowbray, Bart., of Mortimer, 
Berkshire; of New College, Oxford; matriculated 
nth October, 1878, aged 19; B.A.. 1882; M.A., 
1885; curate of St. Bartholomew, Dover, 1887-90; 
now, and since 1890, rector of Durley, Hampshire. 



" To knou', to esteem — and tJien to part'' 1 19 

1884. George Herbert Dawson Davies; of Jesus 

College, Cambridge, and Cuddcsdon Theological 
College; curate of All Saints, Shrewsbury, 1882-4, 
of the Holy Redeemer, Clerkenwell, 1886-8, and of 
Kelsale, Suffolk, 1888. 

1885. Ernest Austin Hammick ; fifth son of Rev. Sir 

Vincent Love Hammick, Bart, of Milton x'\bbott, 
Devonshire; of Exeter College, Oxford; matriculated 
i8th May, 1869, aged 19; B.A., 1873; M.A., 1876; 
rector of Forrabury and of Minster, Cornwall, 
1877-85; archdeacon of Zululand, 1886-9; living, 
1892. 

1886. George Napier ; seventh son of Rev. Charles Walter 

Albyn Napier, rector of Wiston, Sussex; of St. Mary's 
Hall, Oxford; matriculated 7th February, 1878, aged 
18; B.A., 1 881; M.A., 1889; curate of St. John, 
Truro, 1882-5, and of St. Mary, Truro, 1885-6; now 
vicar designate of St. Mary's, Tothill-fields. 

1887. Bernard Wilkinson; second son of Rev. John 

Bourdieu Wilkinson, of Westminster ; of Lincoln 
College, Oxford, matriculated 29th January, 1879, 
aged 18; B.A., 1882 ; M.A., 1887. 

1888. John Primatt Maud, Junr. ; son of Rev. John 

Primatt Maud, Vicar of Ancaster, Lincolnshire ; of 
Keble College, Oxford ; matriculated 14th October, 
1879, aged 19; B.A., 1883; M.A., 1887; vicar of 
Chapel Allerton, Yorkshire, since 1890. 

1890. Francis Roiunson Phelps ; eldest son of Rev. 

Joseph Francis Phelps, of Newfoundland ; of Keble 
College, Oxford; matriculated i8th December, 
1882, aged 19; B.A., 1886; M.A., 1889; curate of 
St. Philip's, Battcrsea, 1887-90. 

1891. I1i;nrn' ]U)EN Olivier; third son of Rev. Dacres 

Olivier, rector of Wilton, Wilts ; of New College, 
Oxford; matriculated 16th Januar)-, 1887, aged 18 ; 
B.A., 1889. 



1 26 TJic Burial Ground. 



GlIAPTER V. 



THE BURIAL GROUND. 



Let's talk of graves, and worms, and epitaphs." 

" Richard II. 



'' Who hath not loitered in a green churchyard. 
And let his spirit like a demon-mole. 
Work through the clayey soil and gravel hard. 

To see skull, cofifined bones, and funeral stole ; 
Pitying each form that hungry Death hath marred. 
And filling it once more with human soul ?" 

Keats. 



Purchase of Site. — Fees. — Torchlight funerals. — Overcrowded con 
dition. — Proposed enlargement. — Ground raised. — Enlargement. — 
Closed by Order in Council. — Claims by the Rectors. — " Body- 
snatching." — Conversion of the ground into a Public Garden. — 
Burial Registers. — Longevity. 

T MMEDIATELY after the Church had been opened for 
public worship, the Vestry appointed a Committee 
" to consider several pieces of ground offered as proper for 
cemeteries." Their report, presented to the Vestry in 
April, 1729, recommended a site in Wood-street, with a 
passage into North-street, the property of Mr. Henry 
Smith, from whom the site of the Church had been pur- 
chased. Without further communication with the Vestry, 
the Commissioners acquired a small plot of ground in the 
Horseferry-road, which was in due course laid out, though 
it was not enclosed for more than twenty years afterwards. 
In July, 1731, the Vestry petitioned the Dean and Chapter 
" to get the burying ground consecrated," and to approve of 
a table of fees proposed to be charged. The ceremony was 
performed on 29th July by Dr. Wilcocks, Dean of West- 
minster and Bishop of Gloucester, who was translated to 
Rochester the same year. The apparitor's bill of fees and 
costs incidental to the occasion amounted to i^i6 lO^. 2d. 



Funereal customs of last century. i2l 

In the first list of fees an extra chari^e of five shillings 
was prescribed for all interments after ten o'clock at night. 
Subsequently (in 1748) this extra fee was imposed upon 
funerals taking place after nine o'clock. Orders were also 
passed prohibiting interments after midnight, and direct- 
ing that mourners' lights should not be taken into the 
church. These were the days in which the custom of lying 
in state and burial by torchlight was general among the 
well-to-do. The bodies of merchant.s and tradesmen were 
laid among black velvet hangings, with wax candles around 
the coffin, and the houses were left open for the admission 
of the neighbours to the chamber of death. Besides the 
" searchers," who were appointed by the parish authorities 
to see that the body bore no marks of foul play, " the 
plumper " was called in " to bedizen the body,* and to make 
what the ladies used to call 'a charming corpse.'" Torchlight 
funerals, to which Pope refers in the well known lines: — 

When Hopkins dies, a thousand Hyhts attend 
The wretch who, h\ing, saved a candle's end — • 

were continued in St. John's until late in the last 
century. As many as thirty men were sometimes employed 
t(j assist at one of the.se dismal pomps, and more than half 
a hundred weight of wax candles, which then cost three 
shillings per pound, were used at one procession. It was 
also considered a breach of decorum for any mourner to 
appear at a funeral without a sprig of rosemary. Irrespec- 
tive of the searchers' fees, which varied from 2s. 6d. to 
/s. 6d. each, and exclusive of the undertaker's proper 
charges, the cost of this melancholy display was often as 
much as £\2 or ^15. A striking contrast to this ostenta- 
tion is furnished by an order of the Vestr}', that the bearers 
should not wear their silk bands at pauper funerals, and 
that the pall to be used on such occasions should be of 
cloth instead of velvet, and inscribed with the words, 

* The Oxford and Cambridge Monthly Miscellany, September, 1750. 



122 Overcrowded state of the burial-ground. 

" Buried at the expense of the Parish." This stigma was 
removed in 1807. 

The Commissioners had so underestimated the mortaHty 
of the parish, that within twenty years from the consecra- 
tion the overcrowded condition of the burial ground 
became the cause of much anxiety. A proposal to enlarge 
the area by acquiring a piece of land on the west side had 
to be abandoned in consequence of the exorbitant price, 
and the deposit of three feet of earth over the whole site, 
at a cost of ^125, was accepted as a remedy. Seven years 
later (1758) the process of 'raising' had to be repeated, 
though the expense was less, owing to a large quantity of 
mould and rubbish being available from the excavation in 
connection with extensive alterations then being made at 
St. Margaret's Church. The fees were also raised at this 
time with the view of reducing the number of interments. 
A further increase of charges was resorted to in 1784, when 
it was reported that the ground was " exceedingly full, 
owing. to the low fees attracting interments from other 
parishes." A brick wall was erected in this year to enclose 
and embank the ground. Between 1803 and 1823, many 
entries tell of the troubles occasioned by the extent to 
which the death-rate had overgrown the small burial 
ground. One report declares " the uppermost corps to be 
scarcely more than two feet below the surface," and records 
an unsuccessful attempt to induce Lord Grosvenor to sell 
" a part of the fields adjoining the present burial ground ; " 
another minute records yet a further " raising of the ground " 
at a cost af ^^265, besides ^^24 for beer for the men. Then 
follows an order that the fees be quadrupled ; but this 
expedient having failed, an urgent report was presented to 
the effect " that the part of the ground allotted for the poor 
is buried all over four or five deep ; that 5,126 graves 
had been dug in ten years ; that 5 or 6 coffins are placed in 
every grave where eight feet in depth can be obtained, and 
that many of the bodies are less than two feet from 
the surface " ! 



Additional land purchased. i53 

With this impartial and indisputable testimony before 
us, the description in Bleak House of the burial, in just 
such another place, of the unknown man, who was very 
good to Jo, which we might have regarded as being severely 
drawn, recalls itself with realistic accuracy : — 

Then the active and intelHgent (beadle), who has got into the 
morning papers as such, comes with his pauper company to 
Mr. Krook's, and bears off the body of our clear brother here departed, 
to a hemmed-in churchyard, pestiferous and obscene, whence mahg- 
nant diseases are communicated to the bodies of our dear brothers and 
sisters who have not departed ; while our dear brothers and sisters 
who hang about official back-stairs — would to Heaven they had 
departed ! — are very complacent and agreeable. Into a beastly scrap 
of ground which a Turk would reject as a savage abomination, and a 
Caffre would shudder at, they bring our dear brother here departed, to 
receive Christian burial. 

With houses looking on, on every side, save where a reeking little 
tunnel of a court gives access to the iron gate — with every villany of 
life in action close on death, and every poisonous element of death in 
action close on life — here, they lower our dear brother down a foot or 
two : here, sow him in corruption, to be raised in corruption : an 
avenging ghost at many a sick-bedside : a shameful testimony to 
future ages, how civilization and barbarism walked this boastful island 
together. 

In 1823, Lord Grosvenor relieved the parish from its dis- 
creditable position by surrendering a plot of land adjoining 
the original ground, upon payment of ;^2,o50, or 25 years' 
purchase, the compensation for the leasehold interests being 
fixed by arbitration at ;^2,2 58. This additional space was 
consecrated on 23rd June, 1823, immediately upon which 
the "poor" ground was closed entirely against further inter- 
ments. By this time the number of military funerals had 
become considerable, owing to the existence of the three 
soldiers' hospitals in the parish; }'et in September, 1853, 
when the new ground had been in constant requisition for 
thirty ye?.rs, the Vestry offered the strongest possible 
resistance to Lord Palmcrston's proposal to close the entire 
ground against fin-ther burials. His Lordship rc])lietl, how- 
ever, that " the ground had had deposited in it about six 
times the number of bodies it was properly fit to hold, and 



124 T^^^^ Burial Gfound. Claims by the Rectors. 

had become a great public nuisance." The closing Order 
was issued on 31st October, 1853. A loss to the revenue 
of the Church of ;^240 followed, in consequence of which 
the salaries of all the Church officers were reduced, and 
other economies adopted. 

In 1 77 1 the Rector, the Rev. Joseph Sims, claimed the 
ground as his glebe, and alleged that he was entitled "to 
receive all moneys paid to the Churchwardens for grave- 
stones, vaults, herbage, etc. Seven years later, Dr. Blair, 
who had succeeded Mr. Sims in the rectory, asserted a 
similar claim. To both these pretensions the Vestry, after 
having consulted counsel, offered a resolute resistance, in 
consequence of which nothing more was heard of the 
subject. {See page 6'S>.) 

Readers of Dickens's Tale of Two Cities will recollect 
the skilful pourtrayal of the " Resurrection-man " in the 
character of Jerry Cruncher, the messenger at Tellson's, who, 
as "a honest tradesman, accustomed to make his wayquietly," 
supplemented the income of his position by "going afishing" 
with a sack, a convenient crowbar, a rope, and some chain 
as his tackle. When challenged with having " an unlawful 
occupation, of an infamous description," Cruncher described 
himself as " an agricultural character " and pleaded that 
" wot with undertakers, wot with parish clerks, wot with 
sextons, and wot with private watchmen (all awaricious and 
all in it) a man wouldn't get much by it even if it was so." 

The abominable offence of stealing dead bodies for dis- 
section, which is said to have commenced in the autumn of 
1777, at the burial ground of St. George's Church, Blooms- 
bury, soon gave rise to trouble in St. John's. In 1781, the 
Vestry appointed two watchmen for night duty, to prevent 
such outrages ; subsequently they presented a petition to 
Parliament calling attention to the necessity of better secur- 
ing burial grounds and of the "more effectual punishment 
of violators of the rights of sepulture." As the offence 
became less prevalent, the watchmen were dispensed with ; 



Felonious disinterments. 125 

but one morning in November, 18 14, a spade, a sack, and 
a great coat being found upon the ground, led to the infer- 
ence that thieves had been disturbed at the commencement 
of their operations. The watchmen were thereupon re- 
instated, armed with pistols, and supplied with powder and 
ball for their protection, the brick wall was raised, and a dwarf 
wall, with tall iron railings and gates, was erected at the 
Horseferry-road front. All these precautions were of little 
avail, however, as two men and a woman were shortly 
afterwards detected in the act of disinterring a body. They 
were all three convicted and sentenced to hard labour, after 
which there is no record of a repetition of the outrage. 

This is somewhat remarkable in view of the extent to 
which the offence was committed in Lambeth, with which 
parish there was constant communication by boat from the 
Horse Ferry. In October, 1794, a hackney coachman who 
was apprehended in the act of conveying dead bodies from 
the burial ground in High-street, Lambeth, was brought 
before the Magistrate at Union Hall, Borough. At the 
time the coach was seized, the body of the late porter to 
the Archbishop of Canterbury, that of a young womaii, 
and those of two children, were in it. The discovery 
caused such consternation among the inhabitants that they 
obtained permission for the friends of those recently buried 
to examine whether or not the bodies remained in the 
graves. " Shocking to say,* upwards of two hundred of 
the coffins taken up were found to be empty " (!). Large 
rewards were offered for the apprehension of the thieves, 
and a public remonstrance was afterwards, on sanitary 
grounds, made against the re-opening of the graves. 

With this information before us we are less disposed to 
criticise Hood's sketch o{ Jack Hall when he says — 

By day it was his trade to go 

Tending the black coach to and fro ; 

And sometimes at the door of woe, 
With emblems suitable, 

He stood with brother Mute, to show 
Tliat life is mutable. 

* Gentleman's Magazine, Vol. LXIV. , p. 274. 



126 Bii7-ial in woollen. 

But long before they passed the ferry^ 
The dead that he had helped to bury 
He sacked — (he had a sack to carry 

The bodies off in) ; 
In fact he let them have a very 

Short fit of coffin. 

Night after night, with crow and spade, 
He drove this dead biit thriving trade. 
Meanwhile his conscience never weighed, 

A single horsehair ; 
On corses of all kinds he preyed, 

A perfect corsair. 

The use of woollen material for shrouds, which was made 
compulsory by an Act of Parliament passed in 1667-8 
(Charles II.) was enforced in this parish so lately as 181 1, 
as shown by an entry in the Churchwardens' Accounts 
under date of 28th March in that year : — 

Received a moiety of the penalty for Mrs. Christie 

being buried in linen ... ... ... ... £z 10 o 

The object of the Act was " the encouragement of the 
woollen manufacture of this kingdom, and prevention of 
the exportation of the moneys thereof for the buying and 
importing of linen"; but the penalty of £'^ did not prevent 
the frequent breach of its provisions. In detestation of the 
law "Nance Oldfield," the celebrated actress, who spent her 
early life in Westminster, gave directions in her last 
moments for her interment in full dress — directions noticed 
by Pope in his Moral Essays (Epistle I., line 246): — 

" Odious ! in woollen ! 'twould a saint provoke ; " 
(Were the last words that poor Narcissa spoke) 
" No, let a charming chintz and Brussels lace 
Wrap my cold limbs, and shade my lifeless face : 
One would not, sure, be frightful when one's dead — 
And — Betty t —give this cheek a little red." 

From lack of funds, owing to the Order in Council for 
the closing of the ground having effectually cut off the 
income, the place soon began to wear a neglected 
appearance. Walls, railings, vaults and gravestones, all fell 

t A reference to Mrs. Saunders, Mrs. Oldfield's confidential friend. 



TJic ^dreadful spot' improved. 127 

into decay, and for five and twenty years the spot wore the 
gloomy aspect in which Esther, to quote from Bleak House 
again, found the burial ground to which she was conducted 
after her night's journey through the thawing snow — "where 
one lamp was burning over an iron gate, and where the 
morning faintly struggled in. The gate was closed. Beyond 
it was a burial ground — a dreadful spot in which the night 
was very slowly stirring; but where I could dimly see heaps 
of dishonoured graves and stones hemmed in by filthy 
houses, with a few dull lights in the windows, and on whose 
wall a thick humidity broke out like a disease." 

Improvement came about, however, in a somewhat un- 
expected manner. In 1878, the Westminster District Board 
of Works, having been long impressed with the need of a 
public mortuary, proposed to erect such a building upon 
the disused ground. The voice and vigour of the Rector 
were soon exercised in opposition to the project ; but it was 
approved by 74 votes at a meeting of parishioners. Not- 
withstanding a generous offer made by the Duke of 
Westminster to grant a freehold site for the structure 
elsewhere, the application for a faculty was persevered 
with, but it met with refusal. The offer of a site was never- 
theless confirmed by the Duke of Westminster, and the 
project bore other good results in that it aroused to activity 
the interest of the parishioners in their burial ground. A 
committee of inhabitants was instituted in 1880 to lay out 
the ground, to take the necessary steps to convert it into a 
public garden, and to rai.se funds for the purpose by an appeal 
for public subscriptions. Their efforts were aided by a faculty 
granted by the Consistory Court, and by the passing of the 
Metropolitan Open Spaces Act, by which the Westminster 
Board of Works was enabled to take over the maintenance 
of the ground. A further encouragement to the adoption 
of this course was offered b}' the Duke of Westminster who, 
besides contributing liberal 1)- to the funds raised by the 
inhabitants' committee, placed a more suitable site for 



128 Bronipton cemetery. 

mortuary buildings than that at first proposed, at the dis- 
posal of the Board, upon the expiration of the short residue 
of the lease. The committee lost no time in carrying out 
the work, in connection with which a strip of the ground 
was surrendered for the widening of Horseferry-road. The 
whole was completed at an expense of i^ 1,622, irrespective 
of the cost of the street improvement, which was defrayed 
by the Board, and the ground publicly opened and dedicated 
as an open space on the 23rd May, 1885, by the Duke of 
Westminster. In December, 1866, Mr. (now Sir) F. Seager 
Hunt (M.P. for Marylebone), undertook to erect a shelter 
or pavilion in the centre of the garden. The structure was 
completed in April, 1887, at a cost of ^200. 

Long before the issue of the Order in Council for the 
closing of the ground in 1853, a company had obtained 
power from Parliament (i Vict., cap. cxxx.) to provide 
a cemetery at Brompton for interments from Westminster. 
By section 22 of the Act, a fee of ten shillings was reserved 
to the Rector of St. John's upon every interment from his 
parish in the consecrated portion of the cemetery. By an 
Act passed in 15 & 16 Vict. (cap. 85), the cemetery became 
vested in the Crown; but the fees in respect of the entire 
civil parish of St. John's continued to be paid to Archdeacon 
Jennings until his death, when they were distributed among 
the vicars of the several ecclesiastical districts into which 
the mother parish had been divided. 

A perusal of the burial registers from 1731 to 1853, dis- 
closes little of interest beyond the evidence of longevity in 
the parish which they furnish. No less than 107 nonoge- 
narians and seven centenarians* are registered. Of the 
former, seven had entered upon their 99th year, and 26 

* In 1783, Elizabeth Smith, widow, aged lOO years, was an unsuccessful 
candidate for admission to the Emanuel Hospital. She renewed her applica- 
tion two years afterwards; but again failed to obtain the charity. Her burial 
is not entered in St. John's registers. 

On the 27th May, 1784, died George Sims, of Great Peter Street, aged 102 
years, 



Longevity. A doubtful case. 129 

died in the workhouse. The names and addresses of the 
seven centenarians have been extracted : — 



Year. 


Name. 


Address. 


Age. 


1787 . 


. Nicholas Gentle 


. The Workhouse 


100 


iZoo . 


. Catherine Fraser .. 


. St. Ann's street 


.. 107 


1817 . 


. EHzabeth Hearn 


. St. Ann's street 


.. 100 


1828 . 


. Elizabeth Shuan 


. 44, Old Pye street 


100 


1833 • 


. Susannah Forg-ain .. 


. The Workhouse 


100 


1834 . 


. Mary Purdy 


. 9, Esher street 


.. 100 


1838 . 


. Elizabeth Stanley .. 


. The Workhouse 


.. lOI 



No stone or tablet in the burial ground marks the resting 
place of either of these. The only stone which records an 
age of more than 100 years, is that of Christopher Shephard 
distiller, of Peter-street, who died on the 5th April, 17X2, 
aged 146 years. The stone, which lies on the east side of 
the ground, reveals, on close inspection, a clumsy piece of 
carving in the " i " prefixed to the "46." There is also the 
appearance of the figure preceding the " 2 " having been 
defaced so as to prevent the entry being easily checked by 
the registers. A search extending over sixty years discovered 
the entry of the burial as having taken place in 1732. No 
ages are given in the register ; but as odd memoranda are 
in some places added on commonplace subjects, it is 
remarkable that so great an age was not thought worthy of 
note. An application was made to the Vestry on 25th 
April, 1732, for leave to construct a vault, and £^ 5s. was 
paid for the concession ; but although the particulars 
entered on the Vestry minutes are in other respects full, 
there is no mention made of the age. 

Walcott states that the burial ground contains the 
ashes of an Indian Chief, who, having been brought to 
England in 1734 by Mr. James Oglethorpe, died of small- 
pox, and was buried in the presence of the 'emperor 
Toma,' after the custom of the Karakee Creeks, .sewn up 
in two blankets, between two deal boards, with his clothes, 
some silver coins and a few glass beads. 

The same author also mentions a tomb bearing an inscrip- 

I 



130 The Burial Ground. 

tion to the memory of Donald Grant, D.D., "whose ecclesias- 
tical emoluments during a ministry of forty-four years in the 
Established Church amounted to ;^743, or an average of 
rather less than £1^ per annum. Yet, with no original 
patrimony he was enabled to preserve through life the 
independence of a man, and the respectability of a clergy- 
man ; to supply the decencies of a comfortable mediocrity ; 
to spare something for the wants of Genius, Industry and 
Worth, and to leave a benefaction for the education of two 
young men in his parent University!" Owing in all proba- 
bility to the displacement of the stones during the laying 
out of the ground, the tomb is not now traceable. 

On the east side of the ground stands an unsightly 
monument in granite, clumsily inscribed in huge letters to 
the memory of " Ch""- Cass, Master Mason to His Maj.'s 
Ordnance. Died Apl. 21, 1734. Aged 58." He was 
employed on the construction of St. John's Church, and on 
several of the other churches built by Queen Anne's Com- 
mission. He was also one of the original vestr}'men 
appointed by the Commission. 

A plain headstone marks the resting place of James 
Caldwall, a celebrated designer and engraver, who died 9th 
March, 1822, at the age of 84. He applied his talent 
mainly to portraiture, in which he obtained commands 
from Catherine, Countess of Suffolk, Sir Henry Oxenden, 
Bart., Sir John Glynne, Admiral Keppel, Mrs. Siddons, and 
other distinguished persons. He was also an exhibitor at 
the Society of Artists and at the Free Society between 
1768 and 1780. 

There is nothing in the other inscriptions to encourage 
us to make a 

" Fond attempt to give a deathless lot 
To names ignoble, born to be forgot,". 

for besides the railed tomb of John Bacchus, which was 
repaired and painted until 1889 by the Trustees of his 



Alderman Johnsons tombstones. 131 

charity,* and a plain flat gravestone inscribed " Aid"- J. J.," 
to the memory of Lord Mayor Johnson, who was church- 
warden in 1845, there are no other stones deserving of 
special notice here. The inscription on the large granite 
slab, which has been placed on the south side of the ground 
to supersede, as it were, the last named modest stone, is 
copied in the reference to Alderman Johnson in the next 
chapter. 

But it is time to bring to a close a visit already, perhaps, 
too protracted, lest we prompt the enquiring complaint — • 

Wherefore all this wormy circumstance ? 
Why linger at the yawning tombs so long ? 



* This obligation has not passed to the Trustees appointed under the Scheme 
of the Charity Commission. See Chapter xvi. 




I 2 



132 ^^ Here's a zvisc office?:" 



Chapter VI. 



THE PARISH OFFICERS. 



" And honour's thought 
Reigned solely in the breast of every man." 

" Henry V." 

" They pursue the pebbly walk 
That leads to the white porch the Sunday throng, 
And posied churchwardens with solemn stalk 
And gold-bedizened beadle flames along." 

Hood. 

" It often happens that those are the best people whose characters have been most injured 
by slanders, as we usually find that to be the sweetest fruit which the birds have been pecking 
at." — Poi'E. 



The Parish Beadle. — The Churchwardens ; List of — ' Churchwarden's 
day.' — Fines for non-acceptance of office. — A funeral. — An impri- 
sonment. — A procession. — Mr. Taverner John Miller. — The Church- 
wardens' ' Snuff-bo.x.' — The Treasurers. — The Overseers ; List of — 
The Overseers' ' Tobacco-bo.x.' — Vestry Clerks. 



/^UR survey of the burial-ground being ended, we turn 
to mingle again with the living and to consult with 
some of those who have distinguished themselves as office 
bearers in the parish. With this object we direct our steps 
in search of the parish clerk ; but our progress is arrested 
by a husky voice as we leave the silent acre. The owner 
of this voice overtakes us. He is short, with a disposition 
to corpulent rotundity, and with an infirm gait which has 
invoked the aid of a thick stick. If the assumed air of 
officious gravity and importance had failed to inform us of 
his dignity and power, the profusion of gilt band upon his 
broad-brimmed hat * and of gilt braid upon his wide red 
collar, \\'ould soon have warned us that we were confronted 
by no less a functionary than Scowler, the beadle ! If we 
had had any doubt, it would at once have been set at rest 

* The annual charge for the beadle's hats was £/^ 19s. od. — £t, 3s. od. for 
the " Cocked Hat and gold lace complete," and £1 i6s. od. for the " Round, 
Hat and gold lace complete." The payments were continued so lately as 1845. 



The parish beadle. 1 3 3 

by the awe-inspired alacrity with which two Httlc children 
sped across the road to avoid his threatening eye. Having 
gratified his curiosity as to our business in the burial-ground, 
we had no difficulty in exciting his garrulity, in which the 
dignity and responsibility of his office were in no way im- 
paired by absence of effort on his part to maintain it. We 
soon learned that his special errand at the time was to bear 
a draft handed him by Mr. Seater, the rector's church- 
warden, to present to the Treasurer in exchange for cash to 
meet the payments due to the parish clerk, the sexton, the 
organist, the pew-openers, the bearers, the searchers, the 
collectors, the watchmen and others on the parochial staff, 
besides furnishing the overseers with the small change 
needed to relieve the large demands of the idlers, the 
miserable and the deserving poor who had attended ' the 
board ' at the King's Head overnight. Having endeavoured 
to impress us with his importance, Mr. Scowler lost no time 
in spreading before us his tale of hardship and grievance — 
how he was overworked and underpaid — as if it were pos- 
sible for a parish beadle not to be so ; how his asthma had 
been worse ever since he was called up at midnight, to take 
the engine to a fire which only burnt in the imagination of 
the youths of the parish, and how the sexton had induced 
Mr. Gatherbutton, the people's warden, to order him to as- 
sist in lighting the fires in the church stoves every week in- 
stead of every month. 

A generation had passed away since his election, which 
was only remembered by a few of the older inhabitants. 
It had occasioned nothing of the parochial convulsion 
which had recently occurred in the parish of St. Margaret.* 

* A packet of letters from applicants for the office of beadle, when the posi- 
tion was vacant in St. Margaret's in 1790, was found a short lime ago. Nearly 
every candidate urged as his peculiar qualification the number of his family. 
The letters, and the proceedings of the Vestry in making the appointment, 
vividly recalled the inimital)le sketch by Dickens and the placards he describes: 
• — "Rung for Beadle. Five small children I Hopkins for Headlc. Seven 
small children ! ! Timkins for Headle. Nine small children ! ! ! Spruggins for 
Beadle. Ten small children (two of them twins) and a wife 1 1 1 1 " 



134 The parish officci's. 

In the days of his prosperity, his position as a 'respectable 
tradesman ' had obtained him a seat upon the Vestry ; as 
the day of his adversity began to overshadow him he had 
resigned his seat in order to compete for the office of parish 
clerk ; but that appointment had been given to the son of 
the outgoing bed-ridden officer, upon condition that the 
son allowed his father one half the salary and emoluments 
of the office for the remainder of his life. Scowler's day of 
opportunity dawned, however, when it was told throughout 
the parish that Wheezy, the beadle, who was greatly en- 
feebled by age, had died somewhat suddenly as the result 
of over-exertion. In his efforts to drive towards the green- 
yard two straying young porkers expelled from their havoc 
in a Vestryman's garden, Wheezy had fallen, helpless, into 
a stagnant pool, drained into a hole in the highway from 
the cattle sheds at the rear of the Pig and Pattens. 
Although he was extricated and conducted home by the 
friendly potman, (who had many times assisted him in the 
same direction when incapable from other causes,) the in- 
defatigable officer succumbed to the effects of the excite- 
ment and partial immersion.* 

Here it became necessar}' for us to wrench ourselves from 
Mr. Scowler's loquacity, and to betake ourselves again to 
the parish books for such particulars as might be there 
gleaned of the forefathers and colleagues in office of Messrs. 
Seater and Gatherbutton. 

By the Canons of the Church (89 and 90, 2 James I., 
1603-4) churchwardens were to be chosen every year by 
the joint consent of the minister and parishioners in 
Easter week, on the day which the minister shall appoint 
and publicly notify in the church the Sunday before ; 
but by virtue of an immemorial custom in the parish of St. 
Margaret, both the churchwardens were chosen annually by 
the Vestry on the Thursday next before Whitsunday, and 



Tiie last recorded election of beadle took place in 1S47. 



JV/io has the office ? " 



5b 



by virtue of sec. xxi. of the Act lo Ann.u, cap. II., the 
custom became observable in the parish of St. John the 
Evangelist. The choice of both churchwardens by the 
Vestry continued to be exercised until 1853, when an Act 
(16 and 17 Vict., cap. 225) was passed "for the appoint- 
ment and regulation of Vestries in the parishes of St 
Margaret and St. John the Evangelist, Westminster." This 
Act prescribes that, in case there shall be a difference of 
opinion between the rector and the Vestry as to the choice 
of churchwardens, "the Rector shall nominate and appoint 
one of the churchwardens, and the majority of the Vestry- 
men present shall then and there elect the other church- 
warden." Although no " disagreement " is recorded, the 
rector has, since 1854, invariably appointed one of the 
churchwardens, and the Vestry the other. The rule thus 
established is ob.served at the present time, and in the 
district churches. The following is a 

List of the Churchwardens. 



1729- 


2i^. Sir R. Crosvenor 


Sir T. Crosse 


'734- 


Sir R. Grosvcnor 


John Crosse 


1735- 


John Crosse 


William Ayrcs 


1736. 


William Ayres 


Major J. Rusden 


1737- 


Major J. Rusden 


Samuel Harvey 


1738. 


Samuel Harvey 


Henry Dagley 


1739- 


Henry Daglcy 


Benjamin Barker 


J740. 


Benjamin Barker 


Roger Jackson 


1741. 


Roger Jackson 


IVIatthew Fisher 


1742. 


Matthew Fisher 


John Smallwell 


1743- 


John Smalhvell 


Charles Crosse 


1744- 


Charles Crosse 


Samuel Price 


1745- 


Samuel Price 


Joseph Pratt 


1746. 


Andrew Parsons 


W^illiam (^allant 


1747- 


William (^allant 


Hammond Crosse 


1748. 


Hammond Crosse 


William Pacey 


1749- 


William Pacey 


Robert Howard 


1750. 


Robert Howard 


Charles Kerwood 


1751. 


Charles Kerwood 


Henry Conyers 


1752. 


Henry Conyers 


John Powell 


'753- 


John Powell 


(* Robert Wright 
I Henry Conyers 







Died during his term of oflfice. 



136 



Tlie parish officers. The ch?irchwardens. 



1754. John Powell 

1755. Robert Benson 

1756. John Parquot 

1757. William Cowley 

1758. John Bacchus 

1759. Richard Pearce 

1760. Benjamin Barker 

1 76 1. Edward Hill 

1762. John Vaughan 

1763. Thomas Clark 

1764. Thomas Fisher 

1765. John Whitehead 

1766. John Waker 

1767. Thomas Lloyd 

1768. Timothy Carter 

1769. John Simpson 

1770. William Leigh 

1 77 1. William Harrison 

1772. John Price 
1773- John Fells 

1774. William Stratford 
1775- John Bradley 

1776. Matthew Nesham 

1777. William Barrett 

1778. John Williams 

1779. Thomas Gayfcre 

1780. George Byfield 

1 78 1. George Byfield 

1782. Matthew Wiggins 

1783. James Arrow 

1784. Morris Marsault 

1785. George Graves 

1786. Morris Marsault 

1787. Charles Clarke 

1788. Charles Clarke 

1789. John Groves 

1790. Robert Clarke 

1 791. Thomas Pearce 

1792. James Ellis 

1793. John Ansell 

1794. Thos. Dickinson 

1795. J- A- Schwenck 

1796. Stephen Cosser 

1797. Joseph Moser 

i798.*George ElHs 
1799. Thomas Boys 



Jeremiah Maiden 

John Parquot 

William Cowley 

John Bacchus 

Richard Pearce 

Benjamin Barker 

Edward Hill 

John Vaughan 

William Byfield 

Thomas Fisher 

John Whitehead 

John Waker 1 

Thomas Lloyd 

Timothy Carter 

John Simpson 

William Leigh 

William Harrison 

John Price 

John Fells 

William Stratford 

John Bradley 

Matthew Nesham 

William Barrett 

John Williams 

Thomas Gayfere 

George Byfield 

William Eves 

Matthew Wiggins 

James Arrow 

Thomas Greenaway 

George Graves 

Morris Marsault 

John Marguard 

William Davis 

John Groves 

Robert Clarke 

Thomas Pearce 

James Ellis 

John Ansell 

John Fenwick 

J. A. Schwenck 

Stephen Cosser 

Joseph Moser 

George Ellis 
/William A. Wallinger 
I Thomas Boys 

William Turner 



Died during his term of office. 



This is u'orsJiipful society!^ 



137 



1800. 


William Turner 


/'*Jordan James Arrow 
\ Edward Medley 


I80I. 


Edward Medley 


Charles Slater 


1802. 


Charles Slater 


/*John Price 

I James Sheppard 


1803. 


James Sheppard 


Benjamin Hodges 


1804. 


James Allen 


William Ginger 


1805. 


William Ginger 


Thos. Glover Holt 


1806. 


Thomas G. Holt 


Jonathan Hitchins 


1807. 


Jonathan Hitchins 


Henry White 


1808. 


Henry White 


Benj. John Johnson 


1809. 


Benj. John Johnson 


Hall Wake 


I8I0. 


Hall W^ake 


Joseph Wood 


I81I. 


Joseph Wood 


Thomas Boys 


I8I2. 


Thomas Boys 


James Watts 


I8I3. 


James Watts 


Joseph Sanders 


I8I4. 


Joseph Sanders 


Charles P. Jones 


I8I5. 


Matthew Jenkinson 


John Slater 


I8I6. 


John Slater 


Thomas Sheppard 


1817. 


Thos Sheppard 


Leonard Turney 


1818. 


Leonard Turney 


Joseph Lyon 


I8I9. 


Joseph Lyon 


David Green 


1820. 


David Green 


Thomas Daniel 


I82I. 


Thomas Daniel 


James Veal 


1822. 


James Veal 


Richard Maskell 


1823. 


Richard MaskcU 


James Firth 


1824. 


James Firth 


(jeorge Henry Malme 


1825. 


George H. Malme 


John Shepherd 


1826. 


C. W. Hallett 


W. H. Jackson 


1827. 


W. H. Jackson 


David Shuter 


1828. 


David Shuter 


Thomas Baker 


1829. 


David Shuter 


Archibald Michie 


1830. 


Joseph Bennett 


George Pink 


I83I. 


George Pink 


James Hunt 


1832. 


James Hunt 


William Evans 


1833- 


William Evans 


Joseph Carter Wood 


1834. 


Joseph C. Wood 


Jonathan Sawyer 


1835. 


Jonathan Sawyer 


John Johnson 


1836. 


John Johnson 


James Lys Seager 


1837. 


W. Burridge, jun. 


J. A. Walmisley 


1838. 


W. Burridge, jun. 


James Elyard 


1839. 


James Elyard 


Samuel John Noble 


1840. 


Samuel J. Noble 


Taverner J. Miller 


I84I. 


Tavcrner J. Miller 


James Howell 


1842. 


James Howell 


Thomas Wright 


1843. 


Robert Stafford 


A. L. .Mc Bain 


1844. 


Robert Stafford 


Samuel Hemmings 




* Died 


(luring their term of office. 



i:;8 



The parish officers. The churdnvardcns. 



1845. Samuel Hemmings 

1846. Joseph Bennett 

1847. Thomas Eversfiekl 

1848. Thomas Eversfiekl 

1849. WiUiam Woolley 

1850. John Downey 

1851. Lieut. Henry Coode (R.N.) 

1852. Lieut. Henry Coode (R.N.) 

1853. Fredk. S. W. Sheppard 

1854. John Norris 

1855. Taverner John Miller 

1856. John Norris 

1857. John Norris 

1858. John Norris 

1859. John Billing 
i860. John Billing 

1 86 1. John Billing 

1862. John Billing 

1863. John Billing 

1864. Thomas Horn 

1865. Thomas Horn 

1866. William Sims Pratten 

1867. George Burt 

1868. John Jobson 

1869. Frederick Seager Hunt 

1870. Henry Bingley 

1 87 1. George Taverner Miller 
1S72. George Taverner Miller 

1873. George Taverner Miller 

1874. George Taverner Miller 

1875. George Taverner Miller 

1876. George Taverner Miller 

1877. George Taverner Miller 

1878. George Taverner Miller 

1879. George Taverner Miller 

1880. William Sugg 

1 88 1. William Sugg 

1882. George Taverner Miller 

1883. George Taverner Miller 

1884. George Taverner Miller 

1885. Michael Holman Bishop 

1886. Michael Holman Bishop 

1887. Michael Holman Bishop 

1888. Michael Holman Bishop 

1889. Michael Holman Bishop 

1890. Michael Holman Bishop 

1891. Michael Holman Bishop 

1892. Michael Holman Bishop 



Joseph Bennett 

William R. Gritten 

William Woolley 

William Woolley 

John Downey 

Lieut. Henry Coode (R.N.) " 

Fredk. Sampson William Sheppar 

Fredk. Sampson William Sheppard 

John Norris 

Robert Boyd 

Robert Boyd 

Henry Stephen Ridley 

George Ray 

Job Cook 

William Bottrill 

James Howell 

James Howell 

Thomas Horn 

Edward Grove 

Thomas Henry Hartley 

Thomas Henry Hartley 

George Burt 

John Jobson 

Frederick Seager Hunt 

Henry Bingley 

George Taverner Miller 

John Dalton 

John Dalton 

George Adams 

George Cook 

William John Bennett 

William John Bennett 

James Margrie 

James Margrie 

Harry Nelson Bowman Spink 

Harry Nelson Bowman Spink 

Harry Nelson Bowman Spink 

Thomas Joseph Tayton 

Thomas Joseph Tayton 

William Henry Baker 

Thomas Holder 

Thomas Holder 

Chas. Christmas Piper 

Chas. Christmas Piper 

Herman Olsen Hamborg 

Herman Olsen Hamborg 

John Hayler 

Thos. Wm. Davies 



" Their functions and their offices." 1 39 

The two "well-bclovcd and trusty," whose names stand at 
the commencement of this long" hnc, and whose arms arc 
given on the next page, were appointed in the first instance 
by the Commissioners acting under the Act of 10 AnncE, 
cap. II., sec. 19. They were first elected by "the parishioners 
in Vestry assembled " on the 22nd May, 1729, when the 
proceedings were conducted, as the records inform us, 
" according to the custom of St. Margaret's pari.sh." To 
these, their first churchwardens, the parishioners are indebted 
for the church-plate, described at page 54. 

In his humorous sketch of " Our Parish," Charles Dickens 
excluded the churchwardens from his description of the 
parish officers "because all we know of them is that they are 
usually respectable tradesmen who wear hats with brims 
— inclined to flatness, and who occasionally testify in gilt 
letters on a blue ground, in some conspicuous part of the 
church, to the important fact of a gallery having been 
enlarged and beautified, or an organ re-built." Without 
questioning the accuracy of this description, so far as it 
goes, we might add two qualifications — they must be 
caj^able of gently sibillating their respective patronymics in 
the Archidiaconal car, or in that of the Diocesan secrctar)', 
and of" presenting all such things as arc b\' law presentable," 
— including the visitation fees. For much the same reason 
as that assigned by the great master of fiction, we do not 
propose to encumber these pages with genealogical or 
biographical notes upon the two hundred and fifty 
individuals who.se names we have just enrolled ; but as 
there were some few who achieved distinction in various 
ways, we shall return to them presenth', lest it may be 
thought they have been overlooked. 

An important institution in the parish u.sed to be 
" Churchwardens' da}\" Besides the ringing of the bells, the 
playing of the organ, the processions up the Church, the 
transfer of the keys and plate, the declaration by the rector, 
and the other formalities observed in immediate connection 



140 The anus of Sir Robert Grosvcnor and Sir Thomas 

Crosse. 





TJlc parish officers. Churchwardens" Day. 141 

with the annual elections, the day was marked for many 
years by the " parish parade," in which the bearers, grave 
diggers, pew openers, gallery keepers and others mustered, 
and in which excitement was raised to its highest pitch by 
the fire-drill. Then all became bustle. The little boys 
would rouse the neighbourhood as they ran shouting at the 
tops of their voices to the engine-house, then to the beadle's 
house, thence to the public-houses in succession, until they 
had found the beadle. This accomplished, the beadle would 
run — a feat only performed once a year — for well nigh a 
dozen paces, when exhaustion would compel him to support 
himself by the nearest railings for some few seconds. 
Arrived at the engine-house, the perspiring beadle would 
dispatch some of his juvenile assistants to his house for the 
key, while he seated himself on the dwarf wall close by to 
await their retuM. After some delay the forerunner of the 
youths would return shouting, " There's no one at home," 
which would put the decrepid beadle under the rare necessity 
of " hurrying " to procure the keys himself; but before he 
would be seen again the bystanders would have drawn the 
hasp; the engine would be run out amidst a shout, and 
would be rumbling along the footway at fully three 
miles an hour to the point of call. Another bevy of 
small boys would next be sent off in search of Aquarius 
the turncock. This indispensable functionary having at last 
been brought to the spot, and the right fire-plug having 
been discovered and opened after much patient effort, 
a gentle stream of water would begin to flow and to elicit 
the cheers of the youthful spectators. The bus)- beadle, who 
had by this time put in his second appearance, would now 
superintend and direct the disentangling and coupling of 
the twisted hose, and the eager hands of the larger boys 
would, at his terrible bidding ' man ' the pump, but only to 
find that the hose had become so perished and cracked as 
to be useless. An order would be given on the spot for the 
hose to be forthwith put under repair at the parish cobbler's, 



142 " Lefs to dinner ; coifie, let's to dinner.' 

and the display would terminate in a manner impatiently 
awaited by the church servants, and which is regularly 
inscribed in the accounts for many years prior to 1830, in 
some such form as the following : — 

To the six bearers, grave digger, engine keeper, two 
gallery keepers, bell-ringers, pew-openers, beadle, 
organ blower and vestry-keeper on the day the 
churchwardens were elected ... ... ... £2 5 o 

For the next scene in continuation of the day's pro- 
ceedings we must adjourn to the Salutation tavern, where 
the ' business ' is to conclude with " the churchwardens' 

dinner." 

" And feeding high, and living soft 
Grew plump and able-bodied ; 
Until the grave churchwarden doff'd. 
The parson smirk'd and nodded." 

As fashion has fixed the dinner hour ?i?;»^hree o'clock* we 
proceed at once to this second Vestry meeting of the day 
Supported by the outgoing and incoming wardens, by the 
overseers, by the Vestrymen in full force, and by the prin- 
cipal officials, — 

" The Rector at the table's front presides, 
Whose presence a monastic life derides ; 
The reverend wig, in sideway order placed, 
The reverend band by rubric stains disgraced, 
The leering eye in wayward circles roll'd, 
Mark him the pastor of a jovial fold, 
Whose various texts excite a loud applause, 
Favouring the bottle and the good old cause." 

Here, amid the clattering of plates and dishes and cutlery, 

and as course after course of substantial English fare would 

appear and disappear, our parish fathers would discuss parish 

matters : — 

And mix sobriety with wine 

And honest mirth with thoughts divine. 

* In the JVcckly Journal o{ i^\\\ January, 1735, there is an order to the Band 
of Clentlemen Pensioners, in which three o'clock is mentioned "as the usual 
time of his Majesty retiring to go to dinner." 

" We go to-morrow to walk in Richmond Gardens, and they are all to dine 
here at three o'clock." — Earl 0/ March to George SelwYUj/tine, lyOy. 



The cJiurcJnvardcns dinner. 143 

The sight of the first tureen of steaming soup would 
remind the adv^ocate of " retrenchment and reform " of his 
intention to move at the next Vestry for " a copy of the 
recipe from which the paupers' soup was prepared, together 
with the documents relating thereto," while a newly elected 
Vestryman, disappointed in having failed to obtain a seat 
on one of the committees, would declare his determination 
to oppose the introduction of knives and forks into the 
workhouse* as being an unnecessary, extravagant, and 
dangerous innovation ; but as the tables became relieved 
of their lightened dishes, and as the foreheads became 
relieved of the perspiration provoked by the stuffy at- 
mosphere, those who had at first shown a disagreeable 
disposition, became remarkably bland, until complete 
unanimity prevailed in accordance with the clever parody 
of the well knfyvvn passage in Twelfth Night (Act I. 
Sc. I):— 

" If Lobsters l:>c the Sauce for Turlaot, heap on, 
Ciivc mc another plate — that so the appetite 
May gormandize before the season's out, 
That smack again ; — it had a kiscious rehsh ; 
Oh, it came o'er my palate like sweet jelly, 
That doth accompany a haunch just touch'd, 
Stealing and giving odour ; enough, — no more — 
O pamper'd taste ! how quickly cloy'd thou art, 
That, notwithstanding my capacious eye 
Is bigger than my paunch, nought enters there 
Of what high price and rarity soever, 
But turns to chalk-stone, and the gnawing gout, 
Even in a minute I such pains do lurk unseen 
In dishes seasoned high, fantastical." t 

Grace having been said, there would follow the " toast and 
sentiment," in which the Chairman would introduce " the 



* According to a newspaper paragraph knives and forks were provided for 
the use of the paupers in a country workhouse, for the first time, at their 
Christmas dinner in 1888. 

t Gentleman's Ma^^azinc, Vol. LXIV. I'art II., p. 654. 



144 After dinner. 

King — and his speedy recovery," or the " Prince Regent," or 
" the Wooden Walls of Old England." Then 

Round went the flasks of ruddy wine, 
From Bordeaux, Orleans or the Rhine ; 
And all was mirth and revelry. 

And then the churchwarden pipe and the " Tobacco Box " 
would add to the social cheer, in the course of which — 

The chairman pledged his welcome guest. 
The cup went through among the rest. 
Who drained it merrily. 

When the services of the outgoing warden had been duly 
recognised, one gentleman would ask another " Hob and 
Nob ? " The other would politely acquiesce, and the two 
gentlemen would then touch their glasses together and 
invoke health on each other. In this little courtesy the 
challenger would usually put the rim of his glass a little 
below the rim of his friend's, who, as a matter of compli- 
ment, would make a feint of resisting the honour by lowering 
his own. The early summer evening had not cast its shade 
as this second vestry meeting would rise, and the company 
disperse in little groups, some to stroll under the willows 
of Millbank, and across the fields, to continue their pro- 
menade in the ' genteel walks ' of Ranelagh ; some to take 
the ferry across to the Spring Gardens at Vauxhall to enjoy 
Dr. Arne's music or the fireworks, and others to take their 
accustomed corner at their favourite coffee-house, to learn 
the latest intelligence from the Gazette Extraordinary. 

With the exception of the invitations for the officials, the 
expense of which was charged against the parish, the cost 
of these annual entertainments was defrayed either by 
subscription or by the churchwardens. In course of 
time, however, the pecuniary liability on account of 
Churchwarden's Day was regarded as somewhat burden- 
some. By way of remedy, an allowance of ^ 1 2 was 
annually voted, for many years, to each churchwarden 
'' towards the extra expense they are at in serving 



" / do not like the office" 145 

the ofifice ; " but the grant did not remove an indis- 
position to accept 'the honours of office.' Between 1768 
and 1 8 16, no less than £340 were carried to the parish 
credit in the form of fines of i^20 each imposed upon seven- 
teen Vestrymen who declined to serve when nominated as 
churchwardens. One of these was Thomas Churchill, a 
relative of the poet (1769), another was " Lord Viscount 
Belgrave" (1796), a third was Admiral Ommaney (1798), a 
fourth was Mr. Thomas Green, the parish treasurer, who 
paid the fine rather than accept the office for two months 
upon a vacancy being caused by death in 1801, and a fifth 
was Mr. James Ellis, the parish attorney, in 1807. Two 
gentlemen paid ^20 each in 1794, and three forfeited the 
same amount each in 1798 to be excused accepting the 
position. 

An endeavour to impose the honours of office and the 
penalty for non-acceptance upon a reluctant Vestryman, 
was successfully contested in 1801, when Thomas Sibell 
pleaded that he was the assignee of a certificate* duly 
granted to John Doney of his having apprehended and 
prosecuted to coiu'iction two men for a burglary in his 
dwelling house and stealing therein goods of the value of 
fourteen shillings and ninepence, " such certificate discharg- 
ing the said John Doney from all manner of parish offices." 
Being unable to realise the possibility of exemption under 
such circumstances, the Vestr)- referred the claim to the 
parish attorne}-, upon whose advice it was allowed. 

In 1796 a custom was established of presenting each out- 
going churchwarden with " a folio pra}-er-book, handsomely 
bound in morocco, gilt, and lettered with his name thereon," 
as a memento of his year of office. The custom ceased, 
owing to lack of funds, nine years ago. It was not sus- 

* These certificates were known as "Tyburn Tickets." They were assign- 
able once, and exempted the receiver or his immediate assignee from all offices 
within the parish or ward where the felony was committed. In some parishes 
they would sell for ^■25 or ^{^30, in otheis from ^15 to ;^i8, according to the 
importance of the parish, 

K 



146 The Paris] I Officers. A funeral. 

pended even though, in 1818 the Vestry passed a vote of 
censure upon the churchwardens " for not meeting the Ves- 
try at the time of its being called and keeping it waiting 
nearly half an hour." 

In the long " roll of fame " we have just passed are the 
names of many to whom Dickens's description would have 
applied. There are also the names of many professional 
men, gentlemen, and merchants — laymen whose services 
were highly prized by the clergy and the parishioners — 
whose strong desire for reverential decency in the services 
of the Church, was only equalled by their unswerving recti- 
tude and dignity in the conduct of the public affairs of the 
parish. An entry in the Vestry Minutes of March, 1801, 
testifies to the respect in which the Churchwardens of the 
" respectable tradesman " class were held : — 

Mr. Church Warden Turner wishing to pay a Tribute of Respect 
to the Memory of his late colleague, Mr. Church Warden Arrow, 
waited in person upon the Gentlemen of the Vestry, requesting their 
Attendance in the Vestry Room, on Friday the 6th of March 
instant, being the day appointed for his Interment, ^\'hen being 
assembled, and the entrance to the Church being lined with the 
Volunteers of the Saint Margaret and Saint John's Association 
commanded by the Right Honorable Lord Viscount Belgrave in 
person, it was agreed to meet the Body on the steps leading up 
to the Church — That the Wand of the deceased should be placed 
on the coffin — And after the Mourners had passed to proceed in 
the following Order — 

1st. The Bedle with the Top of his Staff entwined with crape. 
2nd. Mr. Church Warden Turner alone with his Wand (the 

Ensign of Office) entwined with crape also. 
3rd. The Gentlemen of the Vestr)- two and two, beginning with 

the Juniors. 
4th." The Vestry Clerk. 

After the usual Service in the Church, an appropriate part of 
the 39th Psalm, was solemnly sung by the Children of the Green 
Coat and Grey Coat Hospitals — and the Children of the Blue Coat 
School, who attended for that purpose. 

The procession moved in the same Order to the Burying 
Ground, escorted by a party of the Association, and followed by 
the Westminster Cavalry dismounted (of which the deceased was 
Adjutant and Secretary) with all. the customary Forms and Solem- 
nity, usual on such Occasions, his Horse being arrayed in Black. 
The whole was closed bv 



A past-cIinrcJiwardcn in trouble. 147 

Major Elliot. 
Commander of the Westminster Cavalry, a Party of whom fired 
three Vollies over the Grave, with their pistols, which concluded 
the avvfull ceremony — after which the Vestiymen returned to the 
Church in the same order, followed by the Cavah)'. 
The Gentleman's Magazine of the time notes that the 
deceased was " joiner to his Majesty's Board of Works," and 
that the funeral was conducted with great mihtary pomp. 

Mr. James Hunt, churchwarden in 1831 and 1832, was 
the donor, in conjunction with his brother, the late Sir 
Henry Hunt, of the coloured glass windows, and the font 
(see page 59J. His colleague in office in 1832 was Mr. 
William Evans, whose active interest in public life led to 
his election as Sheriff of London and Middlesex .shortly 
afterwards. The responsibilities of this office, and his 
determination to discharge its duties conscientiously, while 
they brought upon him an unenviable notoriety, elicited the 
warmest sympathies of his fellow parishioners. 

In 1837 an action was brought by John Joseph Stockdale 
against Messrs. Hansard for the recovery of i5"50,0O0 
damages for the publication of certain parliamentary 
papers. The defendants petitioned Parliament for its pro- 
tection, upon which two resolutions were passed. The first 
declared that the power of publishing such of the reports 
of the House as should be deemed necessary or conducive 
to the public interest, was an essential incident to the con- 
stitutional functions of Parliament ; the second avowed that 
the prosecution of any suit for the purpose of bringing the 
privileges of the House before any court or tribunal el.se- 
where than in Parliament, was a high breach of such 
privilege, and rendered all parties concerned amenable to 
its just displeasure, and to the punishment con.sequent 
thereon. The proceedings were thereupon stayed ; but 
they were revived, with some alteration of form, as an action 
for libel in the Court of Queen's Bench, in 1839. In 
November of that year a writ of enquiry was directed to 
the Sheriffs, the under sheriffs and the deputy under-sheriff. 



148 TJie Parish Officers. 

whose attention was, at the same time called to the resolu- 
tions of the House. The sheriffs thereupon made an 
application to the Court to enlarge the return to the writ 
until after the meeting of Parliament; but Mr. Justice 
Littledale refused to make any order. Having no alter- 
native left them, the sheriffs empanelled a jury, by whom 
damages were assessed at ;^6cxd. Still hesitating to move 
between the two fires, the sheriffs made no return to the 
writ until the plaintiff obtained a rule from the Queen's 
Bench compelling them to do so. This was followed by the 
plaintiff lodging with the sheriffs a writ of fieri facias., in 
pursuance of which the sheriffs' officers entered upon Messrs. 
Hansards' premises and sold goods and chattels by auction 
to the amount of ^^695. The defendants being unable to 
prevent the sale, applied for an injunction to restrain the 
sheriffs from parting with the proceeds to the plaintiff, 
while the plaintiff proceeded against them by judge's sum- 
mons and eventually by an application for a rule in the 
Court of Queen's Bench to compel them to deliver to him 
the proceeds of the sale. Parliament having met by this 
time, the defendants presented a petition setting forth all 
the circumstances. The House thereupon ordered Stock- 
dale, the sheriffs, the under sheriffs, their deputy, and the 
other officers concerned, to attend at the Bar of the House. 
Stockdale was found to have been guilty of high contempt 
and of breach of privilege, and was committed to the cus- 
tody of the Sergeant at Arms. In the examination of the 
sheriffs and their assistants, which extended over several 
days, Mr. Sheriff E\'ans declared that " if in the exe- 
cution of their painful duty they had done anything 
which had incurred the displeasure of the House, they 
deeply deplored it." On 21st January, 1840, they were 
ordered to restore to Messrs. Hansards the sum received 
at the sale, and a protracted debate, which was adjourned, 
took place on a motion to commit the sheriffs and their 
assistants for contempt and breach of privilege. On the 



" Let me be pi-ivilcgcd by viy place'^ 149 

next day a petition was presented by the sheriffs expressing 
" sorrow and concern at having incurred the displeasure of 
the House, and praying that they might not be annexed of 
their moneys or imprisoned in their persons for having 
honestly and fairly acted in discharge of a duty cast upon 
them by law, according to the best of their ability and 
judgment, and to what in their consciences they believed to 
be the solemn application of their oaths." Eventually, by 
a majority of lor on a division, the finding of the House 
was against the sheriffs, and they were forthwith committed 
to the custody of the Sergeant-at-Arms. The plaintiff, 
still relentless, resorted to an extraordinary expedient upon 
the Order of the House being carried into effect. Three 
days only having elapsed, the Sergeant-at-Arms reported 
that he had been served with a writ, directing him to 
produce the bodies of the sheriffs in the Court of Queen's 
Bench. Thereupon the House ordered that the Sergeant- 
at-Arms make a return of the circumstances under which 
he held the bodies of the sheriffs, and the plaintiff found 
himself not only overpowered, but committed to Newgate 
for a high contempt and breach of privilege — a precisely 
similar offence to that for which the sheriffs stood com- 
mitted, with the additional ignominy and discomfort of 
confinement in the common gaol. Taking leave of Mr. 
Stockdalc thus securely provided for, we return to West- 
minster to find a motion made on 4th February, 1840, for 
the release of the parliamentary prisoners. The question 
was negatived, however, by 132 to 34. On 12th February, 
the House was informed that Mr. VVheelton, Mr. Evans's 
co-sheriff, was extremely ill. His medical man having 
attended at the Bar of the House, by order, and deposed 
that his patient was so dangerously ill that he would not 
answer for his life from hour to hour, the House granted 
Mr. Wheelton's release. Mr. Sheriff-churchwarden Evans 
thus became left in the solitude in which he is depicted in 
the engraving on the churchwardens' snuff box, as repro- 



1 50 TJic Parish Officers. 

duced at page 177. On the 25th February an appeal was 
made to Parliament for leave for Mr. Sheriff Evans to quit 
his confinement temporarily for the purpose of joining his 
colleagues in presenting an address to Her Majesty, H.R.H. 
the Duchess of Kent and H.R.H. the Prince Albert on the 
approaching Royal marriage ; but the permission was with- 
held. On 3rd March, however. Viscount Mahon informed 
the House that our churchwarden's health was materially 
suffering from his continued confinement. His medical 
attendant, Dr. Freeman, was thereupon ordered to attend 
at the Bar of the House for examination. An independent 
medical gentleman. Dr. Chalmers, was also ordered to 
examine the prisoner, and to attend at the Bar with his 
report ; but the only action upon the statements of these 
gentlemen, was to have their evidence printed ! Three days 
later, after a prolonged and contentious debate, Mr. Evans 
was discharged " for the present," with an order to attend 
again on the 6th April. Although he complied with that 
order, his discharge was not finally granted until the 6th 
May. x'\fter such an experience of the responsibilities of 
civic offices, it is not surprising that Mr. Evans sought no 
further advancement. He appears to have resigned all his 
public positions, and to have confined his attention more 
closel)^ to the extensive distillery which to-day bears the 
name of Seager Evans and Co., of Grosvenor-road and 
Millbank. In this connection it may be convenient to 
mention that Sir Frederick Seager Hunt, M.P., who was 
churchwarden in 1868 and 1869, is a successor to Mr. 
Evan's business. The son of Mr. James Hunt, whose 
active interest in the affairs of the parish and the church 
have already been noticed, he has in many ways given 
practical proof of the thoroughness with which he has in- 
herited his father's sympathies in that respect. He was 
re-elected in July last to represent Marylebone in Par- 
liament. 

The next churchwarden to be noticed also achieved a 



" The Mayor of London comes to greet yon.'" 1 5 i 

public prominence far beyond the limits of the parish, 
though in a much more pleasant manner than did Mr. 
Evans. John Johnson, a proprietor of the premises now 
occupied by Messrs. Mowlem, at Millbank, succeeded, in 
conjunction with his brother, to his father's business, as a 
paviour and contractor for large public work.s. In the same 
conjunction he inherited a large fortune, the result of the 
father's speculation in a stone quarry in Devonshire, from 
which the " Haytor " granite was obtained. He also carried 
out the contract for the celebrated breakwater at Plymouth 
which, with other profitable speculations, placed him at the 
head of the stone trade. In the midst of his active atten- 
tion to his extensive business, he found time to bear his 
share in the local administration, being elected a vestry- 
man in 1 8 17, and subsequently chosen as a governor and 
director of the poor. In 1835 he was appointed church- 
warden. His conspicuous business capabilities had by 
this time fixed the attention of his fellow citizens upon 
him, and in 1836 he was called upon to fill the office of 
Sheriff of London and Middlesex. In 1839 he was called 
to the Aldermanic gown for the Ward of Dowgate, and in 
1845 he was elected, after an exciting contest, to fill the 
civic chair. Wild expre.ssions of disapprobation on the one 
hand, and enthusiastic cheering on the other, greeted the 
declaration of the result. In the interval which preceded 
Lord Mayor's Day, the opposition had subsided, so that on 
the loth November, 1845 (the 9th falling on a Sunday), the 
procession to Westminster, favoured by fine weather, and 
unmarred b)- a discordant voice, was in every way a great 
success. Conspicuous positions were a.ssigncd in the 
pageant to the Worshipful Company of Distillers, to the 
arms of Mr. Sheriff F^vans, and to the arms of the chaplain 
to the Worshipful Comjjany of Spectacle Makers, the Rev. 
lohn Jennings, Rector of St. John the ICvangelist. Vast 
crowds gathered along the line of route to the place of 
embarkation at lilackfriars, where, in addition to tlie State 



152 TJie Par is J I Officers. 

and City barges, an enormous number of small boats, 
cro\\'ded with passengers, was afloat. 

Arrived and landed at Westminster, the Recorder, in 
presenting the Lord Mayor Elect to be sworn, recapitu- 
lated the many public offices Alderman Johnson had held, 
and attributed his present high station to the efficient 
manner in which he had filled them. " Mr. Johnson," con- 
tinued the Recorder, " had undertaken and executed many 
very great and national works in the construction of 
bridges, in the formation and improvement of the dock- 
yards of the country, and, above all, in the erection of 
that effectual bulwark and barrier against the violence 
of the ocean, the stupendous structure — the Plymouth 
Breakwater. It would be alien to the singleness and 
sincerity of Mr. Johnson's character were he to arrogate 
to himself the undivided merit of these amongst the noblest 
and most useful undertakings and efforts of modern times. 
Mr. Johnson, on the contrary, rejoiced to have had the oppor- 
tunity of acting under the superintendence, and to have been 
stimulated by the example, genius, and spirit of enterprise, 
of the late Sir John Rennie ; and Mr. Johnson at the same 
time equall}- disclaimed the praise of being the sole orginator 
and architect of his present ample fortune. He acknow- 
ledged with feelings of deep gratitude and reverence that 
the foundation of his fortune had been laid by, and had had 
its origin in, the ability, integrity, and industry, of his fore- 
fathers ; whilst in raising and in attempting to carry on 
upon that foundation a superstructure worthy of those who 
had preceded him, his efforts had been as honourable as 
their success had been complete. To avail himself of every 
opportunity of public usefulness had been the leading 
characteristic of Mr. Johnson's life. During his shrievalty 
the defective accommodation of the great metropolitan 
prison had, in a great measure, been remedied by the im- 
portant improvements which had been planned and effected 
by that gentleman in the internal arrangements of the 



" The proud scene ivas o'er!' i 5 

gaol. For these and other vakiable services Mr. Johnson 
had been greeted on his retirement from the office of sheriff 
with the unanimous thanks of the hvery, and he had, more- 
over, received, in token of those services, a vakiable piece of 
plate from the Corporation of the City of London itself 
As a magistrate, Mr. Johnson had been exact and inde- 
fatigable in his attendance, and in the performance of all 
his duties ; and he now entered upon the new and arduous 
office of Lord Ma}'or, full}' impressed with the responsibility 
it imposed, and with all and every honourable feeling of 
ambition to fulfil to the utmost of his power all its require- 
ments." 

Having followed our churchwarden to the attainment of 
the highest position in the gift of his fellow-citizens, and 
given this sketch of his public career, we must leave him to 
return to the Guildhall amid renewed demonstrations of the 
satisfaction with which he had been received at the com- 
mencement of his procession. 

" Pomps without guilt, of bloodless swords and maces, 
Glad chains, warm furs, broad banners and Inroad faces ; 
Now night descending, the proud scene was o'er, 
But hvcd in Settle's * numbers one day more. 
Now mayors and shrieves, all hushed and satiate la\- 
Yet ate, in dreams, the custard of the day." 

Alderman Johnson died on 30th December, 1848, and 
was interred in St. John's Burial Ground, where a ])lain flat 
gravestone, graven with the simple letters " Aid" J. J. 
December 30, 1848," overshadows all the pomp and circum- 
stance of his position, and tells how " death called him to 
the crowd of common men " in the 57th year of his agc.f 

* Settle was the last City Poet. His office was to compose yearly panetjyrics 
upon the Lord Mayors, and verses to be spoken in the pageants. 

t In collecting the foregoing particulars, two other Aldermen of the same 
surname have been met with : — 

Sir John Johnson, Knight, died 1698, aged 59 ;ind interred in the Church of St. 

Vedast, Foster Lane. 
Thomas Johnson, of the Worshipful Company of Coopers, Alderman of Portsokcii 
Ward in 1840. The Ward Return of his election was rejected three times ; hut he 
w.is ultimately chosen by the Court. He resigned in 1844. (CithcKS 0/ London 
and their Rulers, liy li. II. Orridge, iSdy). 



154 TJie Paris] I Officers. 

In 1853 a larger and more pretentious monument, in 
granite, was placed in the burial ground. It lies near the 
Page-street gate, and is inscribed : — 

To the Memory of 
John Johnson and Catherine 

His wife and of their Son 

John Johnson late Alderman 

of the City of London. 



The first died January 30, 1829 
in the 70th year of his age. 

The second — March 27, 1846, 
in the 83''J year of her age. 



Their Son the Alderman — 

December 30, 1848, in the 57th 

)-ear of his age. 

Inscribed by William Johnson their surviving son impressed with 
a vivid recollection of their ever warm parental care, and in 
grateful remembrance of his brother's unremitting kindness. 

A.D. 1853. 
Imperfect as this reference to some of the more prominent 
names in the long roll of churchwardens must necessarily 
be, it would be inexcusable to pass over one whose de- 
votedness to all that pertained to the best interests of the 
parish is yet fresh in the recollection of many who esteemed 
it a privilege to be associated with him. Mr. Taverner John 
Miller, of Millbank-street, brought honour to the office of 
churchwarden in 1840, 1841, and 1855. Among the other 
parts he bore in the parochial arena may be mentioned the 
Board of Governors of the Green Coat School, of which he 
was Treasurer, and the Westminster District Board of 
Works, by whom he was elected a member of the Metro- 
politan Board of Works. He was also one of the most 
constant attendants at the Bench of Magistrates for the St. 
Margaret's Division, in which the parish of St. John the 
Evangelist is included. In 1852 he was returned, in conjunc- 
tion with the late Mr. Du Cane (afterwards Sir Charles Du 
Cane, K.C.M.G.), to represent Maldon in Parliament. In 
1857 Mr. Miller was elected for Colchester, as successor to 



Mr. Chnrc/i warden T. J. Miller, M.P., J. P. 155 

Lord John Manners, now Duke of Rutland. Early in 1867 
failing health induced him to resign his seat in the House 
of Commons, and to relinquish his connection with the 
Metropolitan Board of Works ; and in March of that year 
death closed a public career which had been remarkable for 
its activity, and as distinguished for the keen sense of 
honour dictating every action, as for the unfaltering and ab- 
solute confidence reposed in him from the first by his 
various constituents. In acknowledging" the vote of the 
Vestry carrying with it the customary present of a Prayer 
Book as a memento of his term of office, Mr. Miller wrote: — 

Dorset Wh.vrf, 

j/h Fchry., 1843. 
Mv DR Sir, 

Perceiving that a Meeting is to be held on Thursday 
next, I avail myself of this, the earliest opportunity which has 
offered itself, to request that you will be kind enough to convey to 
the gentlemen of the Vestry of St. John's my warmest thanks for 
their handsome present of a Prayer Book which they have been 
pleased to forward to me through you. 

It will be a source of pride and pleasure to me to retain such a 
token of their approbation of my humljle services during the two 
years that I held the office of Churchwarden, and I shall also esteem 
it as a lasting testimony to the kindness and liberality of the 
Vestry, to which I shall ever consider I owe so valual^le a memento, 
rather than to any merits of my own. 

To you, individually, permit me to express my gratitude for tiie 
handsome manner in which you carried into effect the Vestry's 
Resolution, and particularly for your happy choice of a day so 
much dedicated by the sincerest friends to the interchange of 
friendship's offerings, 

And believe me, 

My dr Sir, 
J.XMKS HovVEl.r., Esq., \'cry truly yours, 

Chiirchivardcn. T. J. MILLER. 

Before taking leave of the churchwardens, we are invited 
to view the interesting memento of office to which those 
who served between 1801 and 1844 were subscribers, and 
which has since been transferred from time to time to the 
custody of the senior churchwarden. It consists of a 
circular snuff-box in common horn, to which was added 



156 TJie Par is J I Officers. 

silver ornaments and cases by the office-bearers in the 
above period, in imitation of the more ancient and pre- 
tentious ' Tobacco Box ' of the Past Overseers' Society. 

The original horn box, \\-ith its silver rims and plates o^- dmts 

weighs ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 5 5 

The first case (solid silver) with 'liner' or double lid, 

and medallions ... ... ... ... ... 10 17 

The second circular case, solid silver ... ... ... 8 9 

The third (octagon) case, partly covered in silver, with 

hinged lid ... ... ... ... ... ... 8 17 

The fourth (octagon) case, covered in silver, with beads 

or mouldings, and hinged lid ... ... ... 22 18 



Total weight of the box and four cases ... 56 



The necessity for a more detailed description is dispensed 
with by the presentation of fac simile reproductions, in the 
exact size, of the several boxes, engravings and inscriptions. 



157 



THE ST. JOHN'S SNUFF BOX. 



^. 



A 



I 




fd 



The Gift of 



^ 




^ \ JFa&erofli)e Veslry of 



S^ JoliTi the Evangelist 

WESTMINSTER 

h we Members hereof 

1801. 




1801 



\The outside of the horn cover. The circular itiscriptioti is on the 
silver rim; that in the centre is on the horn.'\ 



158 



The St. Johns Snuff Box, 




T^ee^jp 



m^^j^^^ 



^^, 



Mirden iSaJ 



Adds this Plate i803 



\Silver lining affixed to inside of No. /.] 



JJic St. Johns Snuff Box. 



159 




\Bottom of the original horn box, outside. The stippled part 
represents the unco7'e>-ed horn.] 



l6o 



The St. Joints SnuiJ Box. 







\Engravings on side of first case, with raised medai lions separating 

same. 1 



The St. JoJin's Snuff Box, 



i6i 




[Sliver cover to first case enc/osin,s[ on'oina/ t>ox ; outside.] 



l62 



7& St. John's Snuff Box 



h 




Jj.ly^ie^:^^^f 



m 








aUe^, 



<r* 



<->\ 



ChnrcliWaTaeiis 



^ 



o. 



'4 



^ 



/ 



^\p 









{jfi^' 



{In-side of No. 5-1 



The St. John's Snuff Box. 



163 



7- 




[Bottom of first case ; out-side. (Inside not engraved)^ 



L 2 



164 



The St. Johns Smtf Box, 



8. 




-^UlTCHlNS c 



\Moveable Liner in first case ; engraved one side on/j.] 



7/f6', ^SV. JoJuis Snuff Box. 



165 




\Cuver of second case; outside ; raised ))iedaUion?\^ 



1 66 



Tlie St. Johns Snuff Box. 



lO. 




onMyyf/i^ey ^^^'^^ts^nycAy .^yiyl^nyi/, 






t / (/ 



y^i^^v-^^^ 



'^cc&ri^ 



^^Ma/^^^^ J^&nAUiJx 



^i7?p Churchward eiv 



^Bottom of secotid case; outsiie'\ 



The St. John's Snuff Box. 167 



1 1. 







^^ 






[Inside of N'o. p.] 



1 68 







^ll 




TJic St. Johns Sjih/J Box. 



169 


















A92f'. 



C3 



FREBEBICIiBriiE oriOHK, 



S/u.j PL A TE aM^r/ 
H, Jackson Church Warden. 



\Six small silver plates on sides of third (octagon) case.\ 



170 



The St. John's Snuff Box. 



14. 



TWO CHURCH CLOCKS 

(one AfMM^^y cfy ^^t^iJ^jZ/t'e^y-Mlap^ 

yfxjtfinnj^ti- '■ — „ 

MAY F7 1844. COST X463. 8. 5. 



THE IRON RAILING^' 

(^TRE^S_& SHRUBS^ 

?iy£fy wom-on/ me^ .£m'Ccodc(/i^ 






^'^^yv2SJ^Mi'^^<y^3 



T 






THESE 4 PLATES 



[Four small phxtes on sides of f/iird (octagon) case. Six small 
spaces, and the bottom of this case are covered in shagreen.] 



TJie St. Johns Sfiuff Box. 



171 



IS- 




\Oiitside of hinged cover on f/iifd iase\ 



172 



Tlie St. Johns Snuff Box. 



1 6. 




^©mTffl l>teWof the Cmuircm 









[Top of hinged cover of fourth case.'] 



TJie St. Jo Jin's Snuff Box. 



173 



17- 



1834. (!riTurri^toJarJ)nt5^.1835. 



THE Houses of 

Parliament, 

Destjwyed by Fire, 

-^6':^ October; ^834^. 



1835. %tirri;Uinr^ni«. 1836. 



The Bounds 
OF THE United Pajushes 
Perambula ted 



I Plates and moulding on sides of fourth (octagon) case. 



174 



TJic St. JoJuis Sjiiijf Box. 



i«. 



1836, (Hljittrf J^htariirit0.1837. 



Elected Sheriff of London. 



1837. CiriittrdtUiar5fit^.l838. 



S'!' Marys Church 

Vincent Square. 

Consecrated. 



\_F/cxfi's and niouldin^s; on sides of fourth (otiagV7i) case. 



The St. Johns Snuff liox, 
19. 



James ELrAHi^, 
1838 alljiu:fI^Urm'dni^.l839. 



H.M Queen Victoria, 

Crowned, 
At Westminster Abbey. 
ZSfJwne IS33. 



175 



James En.xAHe, 
18:^9. alli,ttrrh>ari>m^.l840. 



The Duchess of Somer sets 

Annual Bequest Restored 

AND Shared by the Poor 

OF S^ Margaret & S"^ Johns 
^S39 



\_Fl(Ues and moulding on sides of fourth (octagon) case.^ 



iy6 



The St. John's Snuff Box. 



20. 



1 840. €hxxi\:pdxhm^,\ 841 . 



H.M.QUEEN ViCTOB/A. 

Married, 

Feb'y J0J''JS40. 

HRH Princess R/)val. 

'born Nov^Zi-'NMO. 



ij^iit 



1841. (!%ird^toarini^.l842. 



Q 

B.R.R. 

Albert Prince of Wales, 



\Plates and ?nouldings on sides of fourth (ociagofi) case ] 



The St. John's Snuff Box. 



177 



21. 







{Bottom of fourth or outer ease ; outsi'ie.] 



An absconding treasurer. 179 

In the list of churchwardens from which we have just 
turned are the names of those who bore other important 
offices in the parish. Before the facilities offered by local 
banking houses had extended to Westminster, the parish 
revenues were entrusted to one of the principal inhabitants, 
either a resident Justice of the Peace or a substantial business 
man, equally accessible and in constant touch with the paro- 
chial administration. Upon this 'high officer' would devolve 
the keeping of the accounts and the cash relating to pew 
rents, the burial fees, the Rector's rate, the poor rate, and 
the general receipts and expenditure of the parish. 
Although the labour and responsibility attaching to the 
position of parish treasurer were considerable, there was 
little scope for any such officer to distinguish himself; and 
although the position was not altogether thankless, the 
annual recognition of the services by a vote of thanks for 
the care and attention with which the accounts had been 
kept assumed almost a stereotyped form. For a hundred 
years — the account was not permanently transferred to a 
banker until 1830 — only one exception to the customary 
form of acknowledgment is recorded. This occurred in 
181 5, when the treasurer, having ;^863 of parish cash in 
his hands, absconded. An " extent " was issued against his 
estate for ^41,000, his assets being estimated at i^io,ooo. 
An account was thereupon opened at the Bank of England ; 
but the inconvenience was such as to lead to a return to 
the former system within a i&\N months, when the gentle- 
man who accepted the office volunteered personal security. 

A brief notice must now be accorded to the overseers 
who, at the time the parish was formed, were in the zenith 
of their power, and the personification of all that is now 
conveyed by the phrase * the parish.' Upon these public 
spirited and zealous citizens devolved the onerous and 
arduous duties performed by the relieving officers employed 
by the Board of Guardians in the present day.* The rates 

* An essay tracing the changes in the duties of Overseers from 1535, when 
the office was instituted, to the present time, was incorporated in the book 
published on " The Westminster Tobacco Box," in 1887. 



i8o TJie Pai-isJi Officers. 

made, the defaulters summoned, the distraints levied nowa- 
days by ' the parish,' were in a great measure controlled by 
the Overseers. The destitute poor, clamouring for relief, 
the sick poor needing medical treatment, the dead 
lying unburied from want of means, the orphan requiring 
protection or to be ' boarded out,' or the lunatic endanger- 
ing himself and others until placed under restraint, all 
occasioned applications to the Overseers as they do now to 
' the parish.' The ear of these officers had always to be 
open to the cry of distressed women and hungry children, 
their eye had to be quick to detect the impostor, and their 
hand ever ready to relieve the wayworn and penniless 
traveller ; while their share in the management of the 
workhouse, the apprenticeship of children, the dispensing 
of relief, and the removal of paupers to their places of legal 
" settlement," necessitated attendances at meetings, and 
made such demands upon their time as only men of con- 
siderable leisure could afford : — 

His house was known to all the vagrant train, 
He chid their wanderings, but relieved their pain. 

The ruined spend-thrift, now no longer proud, 
Claimed kindred there, and had his claim allowed. 

Nearly all the statutes, from the Reformation period to 
the present time, provide for the imposition of penalties 
upon the bearers of the office in case of neglect, default, or 
malversation ; yet the records of this parish do not contain 
a single entry of any such penalty having been imposed. 
There are numerous entries, however, of sums forfeited by 
those nominated, but declining to serve the office. The 
penalty, which was £\2 in each case, was credited to the 
parish funds. A- writer in Notes and Queries (8th. S. ii. p. 
117) refers to a ballad, entitled " The Overseer," in vogue 
some forty years ago, consisting of half-a-dozen verses in 
the following strain : — 

Some people are always contending 
The times are so bad they want mending, 
And boast of the good they're intending 
If they could but in office appear. 



" No great matter in the ditty." i8i 

Now to me it ne'er matter'd one pin 
Who was out of office or in, 
For my part I felt quite 'don't carish,' 
For I found things went on pretty farish, 
Till I'd lived a few years in the parish, 
When they made me an overseer I 

With a chorus to each verse : — 

But if you prefer care and vexation, 
And to work without remuneration, 
You should aim at parochial station, 
And get chosen an overseer. 

A small local newspaper, which had a short-lived circu- 
lation in the parish in 1848, records that the following lines 
were written on the wall of a police cell, by a tramp who 
had been given into custody by the overseers for a breach 
of workhouse discipline : — 

May the great God above, 
In His very kind love. 

Send down lots o' very sharp chissels, 
To cut off the ears 
Of our cruel Overseers, 

What won't give us poor paupers more wittels. 

From 1693 to 1728, the year in which the parish of St. 
John was constituted, the Magistrates had annually 
appointed six overseers for the parish of St. Margaret. 
From 1728 to 1749, they continued the practice without 
distinguishing those appointed in behalf of St. John's. 
From 1750 to 1752 four overseers were appointed for St. 
Margaret's and two for St. John's each year. From 1752 
to 1827 two were appointed annually for St. Margaret's 
and one for St John's ; thenceforward, two were appointed, 
year by year, for each parish. With the exception of a few 
years in respect of which the accounts have not been 
preserved, the following is a complete list of the overseers 
of St. John's parish from 1750 : — 
1 7 50- 1. John Williams Richard Harvey 



1751-2 
1752-3 
1753-4 
1755-6 
1757-8 



George Fullock Joseph Carr 

Thomas Clarke Thomas Sherratt 

John Ruffe 1754-5- J"lin Niblctt 

John Niljlctt 1756-7. Timothy Carter 

Timothy Carter 1758-9. (Accounts missim;;) 

M 



182 



The Parish Officers. The Overseers. 



1759-60. John Price 



I76I-2 


Matthew Nesham 


1763-4 


John Cox 


1765-6 


William Eves 


1767-8 


Robert Conyers, deed. 


1768-9 


Morris Marsault 


1 770- 1 


(Accounts missing) 


1772-3 


(Accounts missing) 


1774-5 


George Graves 


1776-7 


Charles Clarke 


1778-9 


John Williams 


1 780- 1 


Samuel Harris 


1782-3 


Johnson West 


1784-5 


John Mitchell 


1786-7 


(Accounts missing) 


1788-9 


Samuel Darling 


1 790- 1 


Thomas Green 


1792-3 


Alexander Taylor 


1794-5 


James Sheppard 


1796-7 


Jonathan Hitchin 


1798-9 


Edward Glanville 


1 800- 1 


Joseph Saunders 


1802-3 


Noah Baber 


1804-5 


Richard Monkhouse 


1806-7 


Henry Frederick Holt 


1808-9 


W^illiam Burridge 


I8I0-I 


I. William Burridge 


I8I2-I 


3. John Eversfield 


I8I4-I 


5. Geo. Henry Malme 


I8I6-I 


7. John Johnson, Junr. 


I8I8-I 


9. Gabriel Riddle 


1 820- 1 


. Thomas Mitchell 


1822-3 


. Archibald Michie 


1824-5 


George Pink 


1826-7 


. Samuel John Noble 


1828-9 


. Jonathan Sawyer 


1829-3 


0. Jonathan Sawyer 


1 830- 1 


. John Alsept 


I83I-2 


. James Dike 


1832-' 


. Thomas Arber 


1833-^ 


. Timothy Thorne 


I834-. 


,. Robt. Alex. Warne (deed.) 


J^ 


imes Firth, jun., in his place 


1835-e 


). William Cleave 


I836-; 


7. Horace Boys 


1837-^ 


>. William Mansell Haydon 


I838-C 


-). William Mansell Haydon 


1 839-. 


|.o. Alex. Lachlan McBain 



1 760- 1. William Young 
1762-3. William Stratford 
1764-5. Thomas Gayfer 
1766-7. Mathew Wiggins 
George Byfield in his place 
1769-70. (Accounts missing) 
1 77 1 -2. Thomas Greenaway 
1773-4. William Ginger 
1775-6. William Weller 
1777-8. William Davis 
1779-80. John Vidler 
1 78 1-2. Robert Reeves 
1783-4. John Gaunt 
1785-6. John Ansell 
1787-8. John Morris 
1789-90. (Accounts missing) 
1791-2 John Price 
1 793-4- (Accounts missing) 
1795-6. Grant Harris 
1797-8. Henry Doughty 
1 799- 1 800. Thomas Hewson 
1801-2. Matthew Jenkinson 
1803-4. Joseph Wright 
1805-6. Thomas Stapleton 
1807-8. Joseph Lyon 
1809-10. Richard Maskell 
181 1-12. James Firth 
1813-14. Geo. Henry Malme 
1815-16. John Simpson 
18 17-18. Thomas Aldin 
1819-20. William Hayward 
1 82 1 -2. Archibald Michie 
1823-4. George Pink 
1825-6. George Hay den 
1827-8. Francis Richman 
John Pryer 
Francis Painter 
James Dike 
John Alsept 
Thomas Cropp 
Thomas Estell 
William Burridge 

James Thomas Bottomley 

William Dalton 

John Montague 

Alex. Lachlan McBain 

George Burridge 



' Tis the list of those that claim their offices" 183 



1 840- 1 . 


Benjamin Hudson 


1841-2. 


Godfree William Ginger 


1842-3- 


Adam Dick 


1843-4. 


George Estall 


1844-5. 


Wm. Richard Gritten 


1845-6. 


Thomas Eversfield 


1846-7. 


WilHam Woolley 


1847-8. 


John Downey 


1848-9. 


Edward Grose 


1849-50. 


Wm. Henry Hatterslcy 


I850-I. 


Wm. Henry Hattersley 


I85I-2. 


Robert Boyd 


1852-3. 


Robert Boyd 


1853-4. 


W^ilham Urry 


1854-5. 


Henry Stephen Ridley 


1855-6. 


George Ray 


1856-7. 


Job Cook 


1857-8. 


Henry Beecher 


1858-9. 


James Howell 


1859-60. 


John King Deakin 


1860-1. 


Thomas Horn 


1 86 1 -2. 


Henry Potter 


1862-3. 


Henry Potter 


1863-4. 


Henry Potter 


1864-5.- 


John Thomas Fenn 


1865-6. 


John Thomas Fenn 


1866-7. 


Frederick Dowling 


1867-8. 


Henry Bingley 


1868-9. 


Henry Bingley 


1869-70. 


J. W. Tyler 


1870-1. 


Samuel Mclntyre 


1871-2. 


George Cook 


1872-3. 


George Cook 


1873-4. 


W^m. John Bennett 


1874-5. 


Wm. John Bennett 


1875-6. 


James Margrie 


1876-7. 


H. N. Bowman Spink 


1877-8. 


H. N. Bowman Spink 


1878-9. 


Thomas John Tayton 


1879-80 


Thomas John Tayton 


1880-1. 


Herman Olsen Hamborg 


1881-2. 


Wm. Hy. Baker 


1882-3. 


Wm. Hy. Baker 


1883-4. 


Wm. Hy. Baker 


1884-5. 


Herman Olsen Hamborg 


1885-6. 


Herman Olsen Hamborg 


1886-7. 


Frederick Rose 


1887-8. 


Frederick Rose 



George Tucker 

Andrew Mallock 

Cieorge Theophilus Trickett 

Samuel Hemmings 

Joseph Bennett 

William Woolley 

John Downey 

Henry Castle 

William Stamp 

John N orris 

John N orris 

William Urry 

William Urry 

David Mallock 

William Bottrill 

Job Cook 

Henry Beecher 

James Howell 

John King Deakin 

Thomas Horn 

Henry Potter 
William Farmiloe 
John Dalton 

John Thomas Fenn 

Frederick Dowling 

Frederick Dowling 

Henry Bingley 

A. Castle 

A. Castle 

Samuel Mclntyre 

George Cook 

George Adams 

Wm. John Bennett 

Wm. Jopling 

James Margrie 

Harry Nelson Bowman Spink 

Zephaniah Deacon Berry 

Zephaniah Deacon Berry 

Thomas Holder 

Thomas Holder 

William Henry Baker 

Chas. Christmas Piper 

Chas. Christmas Piper 

Chas. Christmas Piper 

John Hayler 

John Hayler 

Charles Wright 

Charles Wright 

M 2 



184 The Parish Officers. The Overseers. 

1888-9. Frederick Rose Thomas William Davies 

1889-90. Thomas William Davies Zephaniah Augustin Berry 
1890-1. Zephaniah Augustin Berry James Gibson 
1 891 -2. James Gibson James Lane (deceased) 

George John Chappie in his place 
1892-3. George John Chappie Henry William Budd 

A comparison of this list, with that of the churchwardens 
(see pp. 135-8), will show that the majority of names appear 
in both lists, an evidence that the fidelity and ability with 
which the duties of the overseership had been discharged, 
obtained in due rotation for the gentlemen who had fulfilled 
those duties, the highest position in the gift of the 
parishioners — that of the churchwardenship. Within the last 
five years, however, non-residence at their business places, 
and consequent absence from town on Sundays, has pre- 
vented the advancement of three past overseers to that 
honour. 

The overseers appointed by the magistrates for St. John's 
parish, become members of " The Past Overseers' Society 
of St. Margaret and St. John the Evangelist, Westminster," 
an institution without a rival in the metropolis or elsewhere. 
The Society, which had its origin in 1713, was the means 
of affording the office bearers for the time being the oppor- 
tunity of conferring with the past officers upon questions of 
practice arising in the course of the duties ; but owing to 
the extent to which the more arduous of those duties have 
passed into other hands, under the legislation of the last 
half century, the Society has assumed more exclusively the 
nature of a social institution. To this Society belongs the 
incomparable collection of engraved silver plates, and 
ornaments, mounted on cases of various shapes and sizes, 
and known far and wide as " The Westminster Tobacco 

Box." ^ 

" And from his pocket next he takes '^H 

His shining horn tobacco box ; ^ 

And, in a light and careless way, . 
As men who with their purpose play, 
Upon the lid he knocks." 

Wordsworth. 



Their " shinhig horn tobacco-box!' 185 

When it is stated that the publication of the engrav- 
ings, with some historical notes on the office and on the 
Society, undertaken by the Overseers for 1887-8 (4to., 
106 pp.) cost ;^294, it will be seen that the reproduction 
either of the plates or the letter-press herewith is as effectu- 
ally prohibited by want of space as by cost. Mr. Frederick- 
Rose, 'the custodian of the Box' in 1 886-7, gave an exhibi- 
tion of it to a large and fashionable circle by invitation, 
and prepared for the information of his guests a description 
which, from its conciseness, may fittingly find a place here. 
Mr. Rose says : — 

" So much interest attaches to what is generally known as the 
' Westminster Tobacco Box,' that a volume rather than a paragraph 
would be required to relate its history or to describe its ornaments. 

" To tell its story as briefly as possible it maybe said that at the end 
(jf the seventeenth and commencement of the eighteenth centuries, 
when the duties of the Overseers included the administration of relief 
to the poor, and other matters now devolving upon paid ' Relieving 
Officers,' it was customary for the Overseers for the time being to 
meet their predecessors in office at one of the principal taverns in the 
parish to ' compare notes,' to confer on parochial matters generally, 
and to ' drown their cares in a cloud of smoke.' The mutual profit 
and the pleasant intercourse afforded by these meetings resulted in the 
formation of the ' Past Overseers' Society,' to whom was presented, 
in 1713, by Henry Monck, one of their number, a horn tobacco bo.x, 
of about three-ounce capacity, which was said to have been bought at 
Horn Fair, Plumstead, for the modest price of fourpence. In recogni- 
tion of the gift, the recipients decorated it with a rim of silver, bearing 
the donor's name. On the appointment of new Overseers the custody 
of the box was entrusted to the senior member of their body, who, with 
his colleagues, placed an inscribed silver ornament on the lid. The 
Overseers for the next year affixed a band of silver on the sides ; 
others, in their turn, added further plates, until the box was entirely 
covered with engraved silver. An outer case was then found neces- 
sary, and gradually became enclosed in silver in like manner, each 
body of Overseers adding some ornament during their year of office. 
This case in its turn was enclosed in another, oval in form like the 
original box, and so with a third case, octagon in shape, having a 
double lid to admit more plates, and a fourth, round, with a magnifi- 
cent embossed cover, which in the course of years found itself deposited 
in a fifth case, octagon in shape, with a hinged door, hidden inside and 
out by silver plates. This is some eighteen inches in height, and about 
fifteen years ago was provided with a pedestal and cover in oak, cap- 
able of bearing sonie forty or more plates, many of the spaces being 



1 86 The Parish Officers. The Overseers. 

already occupied. In addition to the names of the Overseers for the 
year, most of these plates record, and some illustrate, the principal 
national and local events of the year. The additions of a hundred and 
seventy-three years have increased the dimensions of the ' box ' from 
about three inches by five, to about twenty-four inches across by thirty 
inches high ; in weight it has grown from a few ounces to rather over 
a hundred pounds, while the ' compound interest' of the original four- 
pence is simply incalculable — for notwithstanding the great intrinsic 
value of the silver, neither the records nor the engravings could be re- 
placed. It is not surprising, therefore, that the Past Overseers' 
Society regard the preservation of tlie ' box ' with great anxiety, — a 
care which its history fully justifies, for in 1785, when the value was 
much less than now, the melting-pot had been prepared for its recep- 
tion by burglars, who, on seeking it in the house of Mr. Gilbert, the 
Overseer in possession, were fortunately disappointed of their spoil, 
through its having been securely placed out of reach.* This escape was 
shortly followed by jeopardy of another kind. In 1793 the box passed 
in the ordinary way to the custody of Mr. Overseer James Read, whose 
accounts the Vestry subsequently declined to pass. The accounts 
showed a balance due to the accountant, and the refusal to pass them 
was interpreted as an objection to pay Mr. Read that balance. He 
thereupon threatened the destruction of his silver charge, upon which 
a bill in Chancery was filed against him, and an Order of the Court 
made for the delivery of the box in the charge of Master Leeds, pend- 
ing the result of the suit. After three years' suspense. Lord Chancellor 
Loughborough, in finding for the plaintiffs, ordered that the box and 
its cases be restored, — a decision which is the subject of a special 
plate, headed, ' Justice Triumphant I Fraud defeated I I The Box 
Restored ! ! !' The plaintiffs' costs in the case were ^376 13s. iid. 
of which ^^300 was paid by the defendant, the balance, besides the 
cost of the special plate, having been readily subscribed by the 
Society. 

Having escaped two dangers, ' the box ' was placed in jeopardy 
a third time in 1837, when a fire broke out in the house of Mr. 
Edward Milns, the overseer in charge. Its preservation was due 
to the thoughtfulness of Mrs. Milns, who, while her husband was 
endeavouring to save his books and business papers, rushed to ' the 
box ' just in time to rescue it from destruction. Being then much 
smaller than it is now, Mrs. Milns was able to carry it to a neighbours 
house and place it again in security. 

" Some little ceremony attends the transfer of the treasure from the 
outgoing to the incoming Overseer, which cannot here be detailed ; 
but among the conditions upon which such transfer is made, is one 
' that the box and its cases are to be produced at all parochial enter- 



' To reduce such a risk to a minimum in the future, the Society have re- 
cently arranged, for the safe deposit of the "Box " in a fire-proof strong room, 
where it is now kept under the control of the Overseer in charge. 



^' Let HS see these ornaments." 187 

tainments .... and to contain three pipes of tolxacco at the 
least, under the penalty of si.x bottles of claret." The transferee is also 
bound under a penalty to restore the box and cases, with some addi- 
tional ornament, when called upon, to which end he has further to give 
two personal sureties in the sum of two hundred guineas each. 

" Of the engravings, it is impossible to name even a tithe here. 
Some display considerable taste in design and skill in execution, others 
less so ; but uniform excellence cannot be expected where the object 
has been transitory for 173 years, and where the custodians for the 
time being have had perfect liberty in the choice alike of subject, 
design, and engraver. The Overseers of 1746-7 were fortunate enough 
to secure a characteristic engraving by the famous Hogarth, who pro- 
duced, with appropriate surroundings, a portrait of H.R.H. the Duke 
of Cumberland, in commemoration of his defeat of the rebels at the 
Battle of Culloden. Another portrait is that of the notorious John 
Wilkes, who served as Churchwarden of St. Margaret's shortly before 
he rose to the dignity of the Civic Chair, and whose signature as a 
Local Justice of the Peace still exists on many a document in the 
parish muniment room at the Town Hall. Many of the illustrations 
are worthy of special notice, and will amply repay the closest examina- 
tion : but space forbids further reference here. 

"The Overseers of 1860-1 were specially honoured in being com- 
manded to exhibit the box and its cases to Her Majesty the Queen, 
who, with H.R.H. Prince Consort, and the Royal Princesses and 
Princes, were very deeply interested, as expressed in a letter filed with 
the books of the Society. In 1877 the treasure was exhibited at the 
Society of Antiquaries, since which it has been sought out and admired 
by members of other learned societies, as well as by British and 
Foreign Antiquaries, to whom its fame has reached by the notices 
published in various historical and antiquarian books and papers." 

The cost of the plate.s and ornaments, which is defrayed 
by the private subscriptions of the Overseers for the time 
being, varies according to the size and engraving. The 
outlay on those added in commemoration of the Queen's 
Jubilee in 1887 exceeded ^^50; the average is generally 
about £\2. 

A drawing of the box and its ca.ses, as they appeared in 
1887, before the outer case had been surmounted by the 
statuette of Her Majesty, is reproduced on the next page. 



TJie Westminster Tobacco Box. 




When displayed in company with the elegant ' Cigar 
Box ' of the St. Margaret's Vestry Club, the smaller, but 
none the less solid ' Snuff Box' of the St. John's church- 
wardens, and the massive ' Loving Cup ' and dish of the 



The Parish Officers. The rear-guard. 189 

St. Margaret's Vestry {see p. 1 10), the whole forms a collec- 
tion of silver which may safely claim to be unequalled in 
any other parish. 

Before taking leave of the officers of the parish, we may 
be permitted to pause while the vestry clerks bring up the 
rear. As they are not numerous we may give their names 
and their years of office : — 

Robert Prior ... ... ... ... 1728 — 1735 

George Cleeter ... ... ... ... 1735 — 1753 

George Cleeter the younger ... ... 1753 — 1763 

William Langley ... ... ... 1762 —1795 

Mark Daniel 1795 — 1809 

John Daniel ... ... ... ... 1809-1835 

Mark Daniel 1835— 1841 

John R. L. Walmisley ... ... ... 1841 — 1891 

John Edward Smith ... ... ... 1891 

The parish attorney was rarely called upon to act. His 
principal duty was to draw ' statements of case ' for the 
opinion of counsel learned in the law on doubtful points, 
and in some few instances during the first century of the 
Vestry's existence to instruct counsel in the defence of the 
parochial interests. Of the parish clerk, the sexton, the 
bearers, the .searchers, and others holding numerous minor 
offices in the parish — 

"Their ashes undistinguished lie. 
Their place, their power, their memory die." 




190 Self-government of the parish 



Chapter VII. 



SELF-GOVERNxMENT 



" My soul aches 
To know, when two authorities are up, 
Neither supreme, how soon confusion 
May enter 'twixt the gap of both, nnd take 
The one by the other." 

" CORIOLANUS.'' 

" For forms of government let fools contest ; 
Whate'er is best administered is best." 

Pope. 

" The nicest constitutions of government are often like the finest pieces of clock-work 
which, depending on so many motions, are therefore more subject to be out of order," — Poi'E. 



Constitution of the Vestry. — Its duties. — Relations with Vestry of St. 
Margaret's. — Insufficiency of powers. — Condition of streets. — Peti- 
tions to Parliament. — Creation of subsidiary bodies and commissions. 
— Futile adoption of Hobhouse's Act. — The dawn of improvement. 
— The Amendment Act of 1887. — The Library Commissioner.s. 
The Baths and Wash-houses Commissioners. — The Burial Board. — 
The Watch. — Street lighting. — Introduction of gas. — Wood-paving. 
— Protection against fire. — Tothill Fields Trust. 



T3EFORE the constitution of the parish in 1724 there 
were two local bodies — the Court of Burgesses and 
the Vestry of St. Margaret's — exercising jurisdiction within 
its area. The incorporation of the Court of Burgesses and 
the original constitution of the Vestry, with the respective 
powers and duties of the two bodies, were reviewed some- 
what fully in Local Government in Westminster, published 
in 1889. The present retrospect may therefore be limited 
to the parochial administration within the boundaries and 
since the formation of the parish. 

By the Act of 10 Anne, cap. 11, sec. xx., the Commis- 
sioners were authorised " to name a convenient number of 
sufficient inhabitants . . to be vestrymen of such new 



Instniincnt constituting the Vestry. 191 

parish, who shall have and exercise the like powers and 
authorities for ordering and regulating the affairs of such 
new parish as the vestrymen of the present parish " of St. 
Margaret. In pursuance of that authority an Instrument 
was sealed on 21st February, 1728, of which the following 

is a copy : — 

AN INSTRUMENT 
For appointing a Vestry in the Parish of Saint John the Ei'angc/ist, 

Westminster. — Anno Domini., 1728. 
T^O all Men to whom these Presents shall come, The Most Reverend 
Father in God William Lord Archbishop of Gm/c'r(Ji/ry, Primate 
of all England a.x\d Metropolitan, The Right Reverend Father in (iod 
Edmond Lord Bishop oi Lotidon, The Right Reverend Father in (iod 
William Lord Bishop of Durham., Thomas Lord Bishop oi Ely, Wil- 
liam late Lord Bishop of Bangor now Lord Bishop of Norwich., John 
Lord Bishop of Carlisle, Ediuard Lord Bishop of Chichester, and Samuel 
Lord Bishop of CZ/t'j'/'rr, '6\y John Phillips liaronet, Sir William Ogborn 
Knight, Martin B lay den, John Conduit, Robert Jacond), John Ellis, and 
Edward Pcetc, Esquires, fourteen of the Commissioners (amongst 
others) nominated and appointed by His present Majesty King George 
the Second, by his Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great 
Britain, bearing date at Westminster the twenty-fourth day q{ Novem- 
ber in the first year of His said Majesty's Reign, for putting in execution 
the several powers and authorities contained in an Act of Parliament 
made in the ninth year of the reign of Her late Majesty Queen Anne, 
intituled An Act for granting to Her Majesty several duties on Coals, 
for building Fifty new Churches in and about the Cities of London and 
Westminster, and Suburbs thereof and other purposes therein men- 
tioned ; and in one other Act made in the tenth year of the reign of 
Her said late Majesty, for enlarging the time given to the Commis- 
sioners appointed pursuant to the said former Act, and also for giving 
the Commissioners further powers for better effecting the same, and 
for appointing monies for rebuilding the parish Church of Saint Mary 
Woolnotii, in the Cit)- oi London ; and in an Act made in the first year 
of the reign of His late Majesty King George the First, intituled An 
Act for making Provision fo} the Ministers of the Fifty new CIturches 
which are to be built in and about the Cities of London and Westmins- 
ter, and Suburbs thereof and for rebuilding and finishing the J^arish 
Cliurch <?/" Saint Mary Woolnoth, in the said City of London ; and in 
one other Act made in the fifth year of the reign of His said late 
Majesty, intituled An Act for continuing certain Duties upon Coals 
and Culm, and for establishing certain Funds to raise Money, as well 
to proceed in the building oj new Churches as also to complete the 
Supply granted to His Majesty, and to reserve the Overplus Monies oj 
the said Duties for the Disposition of Parliament, and J'or more effec- 
tually suppressing private Lotteries, send greeting : Whereas by an 



192 Self-government of the parish. 

instrument in writing on parchment, under the hands and seals of the 
said Edniond Lord Bishop of London., John Lord Bishop of Saint 
Asaph, the sa\dJoh?i Lord Bishop of Carlisle, the said Sir John Phil- 
lips Baronet, s.n6.Jolm Ellis Esquire, five of the said Commissioners, 
bearing date the eighth day oi January which was in the year of our 
Lord one thousand seven hundred and twenty-four, and since inrolled 
. in the High Court of Chancery, the said Commissioners, whose hands 
and seals are thereto set and affixed, did, in pursuance of the said 
Acts of Parliament, some or one of them, and of the Letters Patent of 
His said late Majesty King George the First, under the Great Seal of 
Great Britaiii, bearing date at Westminster the second day of Decem- 
ber in the second year of His said late Majesty's reign ; and by virtue 
of the powers and authorities therein mentioned, declare, direct, and 
appoint, that the new Church situate in Millbank, in the parish of 
Saint Margaret Westminster, in the county of Middlesex, should be, 
and was thereby declared to be, from and for ever after the inrolment 
of the said Instrument, and the consecration of the said Church, made 
a parish Church, and did also, by the said Instrument or Writing, 
direct and appoint that there should be a parish to the said Church, 
and did thereby set out, ascertain, and appoint the limits and bounds, 
district and division of and for such parish to be such and in manner 
as therein are set forth and described : And whereas the Right Reve- 
rend Father in God Samuel Lord Bishop of Rochester, Dean of the 
Collegiate Church of Sai7it Peter in Westminster, and the Chapter of 
the said Church, Ordinary of the place wherein the said new Church 
doth stand, did, on Thursday the twentieth day oi June last past, be- 
fore the date hereof, duly consecrate the said Church, and in tire act of 
consecration thereof called the same by the name of the Church of 
Saint John the Evangelist, in the city of Westminster, in the county of 
Middlesex, as by the said Act of the Consecration thereof, remaining 
in the Registry of the Consistory Court, within the peculiar and exempt 
jurisdiction of the said Dean and Chapter, may appear ; and by the 
means aforesaid, and by force and virtue of the said Acts of Parlia- 
ment, or some or one of them, the said new Church is made and be- 
came a parish Church, and the district allotted for a parish thereto is 
become a new parish, by the name of the Church and Parish of Saint 
John the Evangelist, in the city of Westminster, in the county of 
Middlesex. 

Now know ye. That the said Commissioners first above named, Five 
or more of them, whose hands and seals are hereto set and affixed, by 
virtue and in pursuance of the powers and authorities given by the 
said Letters Patent of His present Majesty, and the said Acts of 
Parliament, some or one of them, have nominated and elected, by and 
with the consent of the said Dean and Chapter of the Collegiate 
Church of Saint Peter in Westminster, Ordinary of the said place, 
testified by their affixing their common seal to these Presents, do by 
this present Instrument in writing" under their hands and seals, 
intended to be inrolled in the said High Court of Chancery, nominate, 



The first Vestry. 193 

elect, and appoint the Honourable yiriwrj Bertie Esquire, Sir Richard 
Grosvenor Baronet, Sir Thomas Crosse Baronet, John Cross Esquire, 
Richard Farwell Esquire, John Llowndes Esquire, Francis Sorrel 
Esquire, Henry Trent Esquire, Brigadier JVatkins, Colonel Joseph 
Ferrers, Philip Monson Esquire, William Young Esquire, John Sayer 
Esquire, George Wright P2squire, Nicholas Haivks)norc Esquire, 
Edmond Ball Gentleman, Michael Askciv Gentleman, Andrew 
Parsons Gentleman, Robert Crosse Gentleman, Robert White Gentle- 
man, Vincent Bourne Gentleman, Edmund Fitzgerald Gentleman 
Robert Webber Gentleman, Emery Arguis Gentleman, George Mor- 
timer Gentleman, Thomas Wisdom Gentleman, Captain John Rusden, 
Thomas Hatnmond Gentleman, William French Woodmonger, 
Thomas Churchill Bricklayer, John Mackereth Lime Merchant, 
William Tuffncll Bricklayer, William Paul Brewer, Willia)n Eyres 
Carpenter, Robert Churchill Mason, John Bacchus Carpenter, Matthew 
Fisher Oilman, Roger Jackson Brewer, Robert Walrond Timber Mer- 
chant, John Willis Carpenter, John Smallwell Joiner, Benjamin 
Barker Bookseller, Samuel Haniey Farmer, and Thomas Hipsley 
Bricklayer, and the Minister and Churchwardens of the said parish 
and parish church for the time being, (being sufficient inhabitants of 
the said new parish, and a convenient number of the same) to be 
Vestrymen of and for the said new parish of Saint John the Evan- 
gelist, and do appoint that the number of persons whereof the said 
Vestry shall consist, shall not any time exceed forty-four, besides the 
Rector and Churchwardens for the time being, who shall be always of 
the said Vestry during their continuance in such office respectively. 
In witness whereof the said Commissioners first above named, five or 
more of them, have hereunto set their hands and seals ; and the said 
Dean and Chapter of the Collegiate Church of Saint Peter in JVest- 
minster in testimony of their consent above mentioned, have hereunto 
caused to be affixed their common seal, this twenty-first day of 
February, in the second year of the reign of His Majesty George the 
Second, of Great Britain, Prance, and Ireland, King, Ucfcndcr of the 
Faith, &c. Annoq. Dom. One thousand seven hundred and twenty-eight. 

Sam' (l. s.) Cestriens. 

Ed.mJ (l. .s.) Lon'don. 

W. (l. s.) Dures.me. 

Edward (l. s.) Chichester. 

Jo. (l. s.) Carlisle. 

Sam' (l. s.) Roffen. 
Sealed and delivered by the within 
named Samuel Lord 15ishop of 
Chester, Edmond Lord Bishop of 
London, John Lord Bishop of 
Carlisle, William Lord Bishop of 
Durham, and Edward Lord Bishop 
oi Chichestc}. In the presence of Jenkin Thomas Phillips 

Secretary to the said Commissioners. 
Inrolled in the High Court oj Chancery, 1728. 



194 Self-governnient of tJie parish. 

Thus constituted, the Vestry met for the first time on 
iith March, 1728, when Dr. Gee, Dean of Lincoln, curate 
of St. Margaret's, and officiating rector of the new parish, 
presided over an attendance of thirty-seven members. At 
this and several subsequent meetings, the appointment of 
the church servants, the letting of pews, the settlement of 
a table of rents for the same, and other business connected 
with the affairs of the church occupied the principal portion 
of the time. The attention given to this department of 
their duty, as also to the burial ground and the election of 
churchwardens, has already been touched upon in the 
chapters assigned to those subjects, and need not therefore 
be further referred to here. 

In relation to the important duties connected with the 
levying of rates for the church, the poor, the highways, the 
appointment and regulation of the watch, and other pur- 
poses, the Vestry were required to co-operate with their 
neighbours of St. Margaret's, the steps prescribed by sec. 
xxii. of the 10 Annas, cap. II., for " the effectual and per- 
petual division of the parishes " in this respect never having 
been taken. Independence was, however, reserved to, and 
exercised by the Vestry of St. John in dealing with the 
rate for the maintenance of the rector, as also with the 
nomination of surveyors of highways and a number of mis- 
cellaneous matters. 

In consequence of the rate for the repair and maintenance 
of either of the parish churches being leviable throughout the 
two parishes, a vigilant watch was exercised by each Vestry 
upon the proceedings of the other in this respect. In May, 
1734, the Vestry of St. John's felt xalled upon to remon- 
strate with their neighbours against a resolution for " the 
pulling down and rebuilding of the steeple of the Church of 
St. Margaret," whereby the two parishes were to be involved 
in an expenditure estimated .at ;^2,200, the remonstrance 
setting forth that the younger Vestry had received no 
notice of the intended outlay, and had not been allowed to 



''Full of most excellent differences." 195 

make a survey of the proposed works. The Vestry of St. 
Margaret's thereupon submitted a case for the opinion of 
Sergeant Hawkins and Sergeant Eyre, and subsequently 
supplied their aggrieved colleagues with a copy. The 
opinions of both counsel were in accord as to the powers of 
the churchwardens and Vestry of St. Margaret's in directing 
the necessary repairs of their church, not being affected by 
the creation of the new parish nor in any way dependent 
upon the concurrence or consent of the Vestry of St. John's ; 
but differed on certain points concerning the raising of the 
funds by means of a rate. Sergeant Hawkins advised "the 
summoning of another meeting of both parishes," and 
Sergeant Eyre was of opinion that the rate could be made 
by the Vestry of St. Margaret " in default of a meeting." 
The Vestry of St. John replied by ' a declaration ' adhering 
to their remonstrance, after which the incident is not men- 
tioned in the records. 

Eight years later, when the Vestry of St. John's were 
perplexed concerning the raising of money to restore the 
church after the destructive fire {see p. 34) they called 
upon the Vestry of St. Margaret's to convene a meeting of 
both bodies " on matters of great consequence to both 
parishes," without more specific particulars. In the absence 
of definite information as to the object of the proposed 
meeting, the senior body declined to act, and when it was 
eventually explained that the intention was to request 
assistance in raising money for the repair of the church, the 
Vestry of the mother parish adopted a via media by pro- 
mising their best co-operation without convening the desired 
meeting. 

In 18 1 5 the parochial barometer had again fallen to 
" stormy." By an ill-advised and peremptory notice the 
churchwardens of the parish of St. John the Evangelist 
convened a meeting of the two Vestries to be held in the 
Vestry-room of St. Margaret's Church on Easter Tuesday 
of that year, for the purpose inter alia., of " ascertaining the 



196 " Self-government of tJie parish^ 

' monies and rates to be assessed within the limits of the 
" said two parishes for the repair of the said (St. John's) 
" Church." 

The Vestry of St. Margaret's passed a resolution directing 
that the customary method of summoning the vestries be 
observed, and that the notice from the St. John's Vestry be 
ignored. At the Easter Tuesday meeting of the two 
Vestries, the representatives of St. John's parish failed to 
gain their end ; albeit the Vestry of St. Margaret resolved 
to state a case for the opinion of counsel " on the applica- 
" tion by the officers of St. John to the officers of St. Margaret 
" to give notice in St. Margaret's Church for making a rate 
" for the repair of St. John's Church, and on the intimation 
" by St. John's parish to move the Court of King's Bench 
" for a mandamus to compel this parish, jointly with them,- 
" selves, to make such rates." By another resolution the 
Vestry of St. Margaret agreed to retain the solicitor-general 
on behalf of the parish. On the nth May, 18 15, the vestry 
clerk of St. Margaret's reported that the Court of King's 
Bench had granted a rule nisi on the application of the 
Vestry of St. John the Evangelist for a mandamus. On 
the 26th June the defendant Vestry of St. Margaret were 
informed that the mandamus had been issued, a copy of 
the writ being laid before the Vestry in the following 
October. The Churchwardens, who were the nominal 
defendants, "wished to be favoured with the advice and 
" opinion of the Vestry as to the course of proceeding 
" proper to be adopted under the present circumstances. 
" The Vestry deliberated a considerable time upon the 
' several matters relating thereto, and as the Church- 
" wardens were thereby in possession of their sentiments, it 
" was not thought necessary to enter into any specific 
" resolutions thereon." 

A difference of opinion between the two bodies occurred 
in 1735, upon the construction of the terms of an agreement 
entered into on 6th June, 1733, by which it was stipulated 



" Our reasons are full of good regard!' 197 

that all pew rents, burial fees, and other moneys payable 
to the churchwardens of St. John, should be applied to the 
payment of the ^125 to the Rector in lieu of rate, to the 
cost of repairs to the church, and the payments of servants' 
wages, tradesmen's bills and other demands, " and if there 
be any overplus that to be paid to the Church Wardens of 
St. Margaret, Westminster, in order to increase the Publick 
Stock of both Parishes in the hands of the Church Wardens 
of St. Margaret's. But in case of any Deficiency, that to 
be made good by the Church Wardens of St. Margaret's 
in regard the Church Wardens of St. Margaret's have all 
the Publick Money in their Hands to which Money the 
Parish of St. John's is entitled to a proportionate part, and 
out of that Money all Public Parochial Expenses are paid." 

"This may probably make a demand of I5li. or 2oli. 
P. Ann. upon St. Margaret's for St. John's and 'tis thought 
not more." 

At the audit of the churchwarden's accounts for 1733-4, 
it was found that there was a balance of £\\6 3s. due to 
the accountants. The Vestry of St. John, in pursuance of 
the agreement, made an order upon the Vestry of St. 
Margaret's for payment of the deficiency. On an explana- 
tion being asked for, the Vestry of St. John's supported 
their order by the following ' reasons ' : — 

First.— Because the Churchwardens of St. Margaret's parish are 
possessed of a very considerable Estate which is the property 
of both Pshes and of which the parish of St. John's is un- 
doubtedly intituled to a proportionable part. 

Second. — Because since the Consecration of the Church of St. 
John the Evangel' a large sum of money (which would have 
been otherwise paid to discharge the debt of the Workhouse) 
has been applyd to the renewing the leases of the Estate be- 
longing to ye two Parishes and it would be extremely unjust 
that the Leases should be renewed with the money collected 
indifferently thro both parishes and that the Inhabitants of 
St. John's should have no Share of the proffits arising there- 
from in Ease of that Ikudcn which must otherwise necessarily 
lye upon them, 

N 



198 Self-government of the parisJi. 

Third. — Because tho the Vestry of St. John's parish, do acknow- 
ledge that (by Act of Parhament) a Pound-rate ought to be 
raised for the Maintenance of the Minister (unless any sum 
of money shall be appropriated for that purpose) . . . 
yet they do apprehend that if they should be put under a 
necessity of raising the said Pound rate for want of Assist- 
ance from the Parish of St. Margaret it would cause very 
great uneasyness in the Inhabitantsof St. John's and that many 
of them would leave the Parish rather than submitt to such a 
Tax which would be very detrimental to the Parish of St. 
Margaret as well as to that of St. John, the two Parishes 
being still united with respect to all other parochial Rates and 
consequently the Parish of St. Margaret being obligd in 
proportion to make good the deficiency in the rates which 
may be occasion'd by the Houses in St. John's Parish 
standg empty. 

Fourth. — Because a considerable part of the Money now 
demanded has been laid out in the necessary Repairs of St. 
John's Church which the express words of the Act of Parlmt 
require to be defrayd by a Rate indifferently made and 
collected thro both Parishes. . . 

Fifth. — Because the Churchwardens of St. John's Parish in those 
years when they did raise the Pound rate found it sojgrievous 
to the Inhabitants that they have since chosen to omitt raising 
it and to advance the Money themselves rather than create 
so much uneasyness among the people, hoping that it would 
appear highly reasonable to the Churchwardens and Vestry 
of St. Margaret's to make good this deficiency when they 
should consider it a proper light. 

Sixth. — Because great numbers of the Inhabitants of St. John's 
Parish are buried in the Church and Churchyards of St. 
Margaret's Parish on account of their Relations having been 
buried there before, and very few of the Inhabitants of St. 
Margaret's (if any) are buried in St. John's Churchyard, 
which is a considerable diminution of the ffees which would 
otherwise arise by burials in St. John's, all which would be 
applyd to the paying the Charges of St. John's parish, and 
is at the same time a considerable advantage to St. 
Margai'et's Parish. 

Seventh and last. — Because by the resolution of the Vestry of 
St. Margarets taken the sixth day of June, 1733. • • Wee 
do apprehend that the said Vestry have already come into 
the proposal made to them And do hope that tho the 
deficiency should amount to more than Twenty pounds a year, 
. the Churchwardens and Vestry of St. Margaret's will not for 
the Reasons aforegiven scruple the payment of the same," 



Rises in the parochial barometer. 199 

A case for the opinion of counsel was agreed to between 
the two Vestries, and M'as laid before the Attorney General 
on 15th April, 1736; but the opinion is not entered in any 
of the records. The payment of the money was reported, 
however, in May, 1739. 

In 1 8 16, when the church of St. John had fallen into dis- 
repair, the two Vestries appointed a Committee to carry 
out the necessary v\'orks at an estimated cost of i^2,ooo, 
and a rate of eightpence in the £ was levied upon the two 
parishes to raise the required amount. 

A little later on the parochial barometer registered " set 

fair," as shown by an entry on the minutes at the time of 

Dr. Blair's unsuccessful attempt to lay claim to the receipts 

from the letting of the vaults under the church, and to the 

construction of brick graves in the burial ground : — 

■})\st May^ 1781. — Resolved that the thanks of this Vestry be and 
are hereby given to the Vestry of St. Margaret for their ready 
Assistance in supporting the Rights of this parisli against the 
claims set up by the Rector, and that a Copy of this Resolu- 
tion be transmitted by the Vestry Clerk of this Parish to the 
Vestry Clerk of St. Margaret's to be laid before that Vestry at 
their next Meetmg. 

Proceeding onwards, and still keeping the eye on the 

parochial barometer, we welcome the indication of " Fine " 

in the minutes of 28th February, 1803, as we read : — 

'• This Vestry, highly sensible of the attentions of the Church 
Wardens and Vestry of the parish of St. Margaret, not only 
for their present of the large brass chandelier, but for their 
handsome manner of presenting the same, which this Vestry 
hopes will prove" an elegant and Constant Memorial of that 
union which \\ill always subsist between two parishes so 
closely united both in interest and situation." 

thus exemplifying Wordsworth's couplet — 

The two that were at strife are blended 
And all old troubles now are ended. 

Turning to .some of the other multifarious matters which 

engaged the attention of the Vestry, we find tliem one day 

(ist March, 1750), deploring the pernicious use of spirituous 

liquors, and petitioning the Magistrates to withhold their 

N 2 



200 Self-government of the parisJi. 

sanction to the renewal of licenses to eight notoriously trou- 
blesome public-houses. On another occasion (9th June, 
1774) the Vestry record their indignation and alarm at the 
frequency of robberies from the person and burglaries in 
the parish, and offer rewards of i^io upon every conviction. 
At another meeting they discuss the inadequacy of the pro- 
visions for the protection of life and property from fire ; 
then street obstructions, and the shouting on Sundays by 
itinerant dealers are seriously debated with a view to sup- 
pression ; and at frequent intervals extending over nearly 
a hundred years (1736 to 1835) the grievous complaints of 
inhabitants led the Vestry to apply themselves seriously to 
devising more effectual means of improving the paving, light- 
ing and watching of the streets, and the abatement of nuis- 
ances within the parish. Not that ' our parish ' was behind 
others, or even the City of London itself, of which TJie Doctor 
(1834) attributed to Southey, affords us a passing glance : — 
"The present race of Londoners little know what the appearance 
of the city was a century ago ; their own city, we were about to have 
said, but it was the city of their great-grandfathers in 17 16. At that 
time the kennels (as in Paris) were in the street, and there were no 
foot-paths ; spouts projected the rain-water in streams, against which 
umbrellas, if umbrellas had been then in use, could have afforded no 
defence ; and large signs, such as are to be seen at country inns, 
were suspended from every shop from posts which impeded the way, 
or from iron supports strongly fixed into the front of the house. The 
swinging of one of these broad signs in a high wind, and the weight 
of the iron on which it acted, -sometimes brought the wall down ; and 
it is recorded that one, from a fall of this kind, in Fleet-street, maimed 
several persons, and killed two young ladies, a cobbler, and the king's 
jeweller." 

An unfavourable impression made by the state of the 
streets on the mind of Swift, was reflected in his Descrip- 
tion of a City Shower : — 

" Now from all parts the swelling kennels flow, 
And bear their trophies with them as they go ; 
Filth of all hues and odour seem to tell 
What street they sailed from by their sight and smell. 

Sweepings from butchers' stalls, dung, yes, and blood, 
Drown'd puppies, stinking sprats, all drenched in mud, 
Dead cats and turnip tops come tumbling down the flood." 



Additional statutory pozvers. 201 

Churchill makes reference to the kennels as 

" Those fragrant currents which we meet, 
DistiUing soft through every street." 

On the 27th January, 1741, Lord Tyrconnell complained 
in the House of Lords that it was impossible to go down to 
the House or to return from it without observing the state of 
the streets of Westminster — " observations forced on every 
man however inattentive or however engrossed with reflec- 
tions of a different kind. The filth in some parts of the 
town, and the inequalities and ruggedness of others, cannot 
but in the eyes of foreigners disgrace our nation and incline 
them to imagine us a people not only without delicacy, but 
without Government — a herd of barbarians or a colony of 
Hottentots." 

For more than twenty years after the formation of the 
parish, many of the nuisances and annoyances which in- 
creased with the rapid growth of the population, were only 
remediable by common law indictment. The Vestry there- 
fore suggested to the governing bodies of .several of the 
adjacent parishes the desirability of uniting in a petition to 
Parliament for the introduction of a Bill to confer extended 
powers on the local authorities. LTnexpected objections 
were taken, however, and insuperable obstacles prevailed 
until 1752, when an Act (25 Geo. H., cap. 23) was passed 
which simplified the method of raising money by a rate 
for all local purposes, and amended the provisions affecting 
the maintenance of the highways in the two parishes. In 
1 77 1 another enactment (11 Geo. HI., cap. 22) deal- 
ing with kindred matters, was added to the Statute Book ; 
but the additional powers thus conferred were soon 
found insufficient for the exigencies of the constantly in- 
creasing number of inhabitants. The aid of Parliament 
was therefore again petitioned, and another Act (22 Geo. 
HI., cap. 44) was pas.sed in 1782 with the object of effecting 
further improvement. Some of the recitals in the preamble 
to this Act do not testify to the efficacy of the former Act 



202 Self-government of the parisJi 

during its thirty years operation, for we read that " the 
houses and other buildings in the several streets .... are 
so far from being advanced in value, that ever since the 
passing of the said Act the same have been going to decay, 
and are now in a great many places too ruinous to be 
inhabited. And the pavement in such streets . . is, in 
general, in so ruinous a state as to be extremely danger- 
ous. . . and the said streets . . are very insufficiently 
lighted in general, and in many parts not at all, and are ex- 
cessively annoyed by night-soil and other offensive things 
being laid or cast therein." These evils appear to have been 
due to the fact that many of the poorer streets were specially 
exempted from the operation of the former Act on account of 
the inability of the inhabitants of such .streets to pay the rate 
authorised to be levied ; but while this third Act augured 
improvement by the removal of those exemptions, it was 
the precursor of the inexplicable chaos from which the local 
government of the parish was not extricated for many 
years. Notwithstanding the existence of a Vestry of forty- 
two members in St. John's parish, and of a similar, though- 
more numerous, body in St. Margaret's, this Act called into 
existence a third body — a Commission — who were to have 
independent jurisdiction over certain thoroughfares regard- 
less of the well-defined boundaries of the parishes. Although 
there were by this time four local authorities exercising 
control in a small area, a fifth was added by the passing in 
1809 of the Act for the construction of Vauxhall bridge, 
whereby the maintenance and lighting of the Vauxhall 
bridge-road and some of the contiguous streets were im- 
posed upon the promoters ; and a sixth was created by the 
Act of 6 Geo. IV., cap. 134 (1826) which constituted the 
Tothill Fields Trust. Passing over the General Paving 
(Metropolis) Act, of 1817 (57 George III., cap. 29), as 
applying to this parish only in common with the whole 
metropolis, we find an attempt made in 1825 to rectify 
.some of the local incongruities by the passing of the Act 
5 William IV., cap. 18, under which a separate paving com- 



Confusion intensified. 203 

mission for each of the two parishes was brought into 
existence. Thus the number of bodies concerned in the 
local administration was increased to eight, not to speak of 
the Crown Estate Paving Commission, who were responsible 
for part of the parish' on the east side, and the Governors 
and Directors of the Poor, who had not been relieved of 
their obligations in some of the central streets of the parish. 
The confusion these numerous Acts were designed to dis- 
pel was, in fact, intensified to such a degree that, by way of 
example, Horseferry-road became almost neglected during 
the frequent disputes between three of the authorities as to 
their respective liability for its repair ; Rochester-row, from 
the same cause, gave rise to repeated threats of indictment 
by the inhabitants on account of the danger to which the 
traffic was exposed by the want of repair ; and when it was 
proposed to release the proprietors of Vauxhall bridge from 
their liability to maintain and light the roads and streets 
leading to the bridge, it was found that there were four 
k)cal authorities concerned. 

With the exception of those acting for the Crown Estate, 
the Commissions were elected by the Vestries of the re- 
spective parishes, who were themselves self-elected. To 
this system, the parishioners attributed many of the incon- 
veniences from which they suffered. A movement was 
therefore set on foot at a meeting of inhabitants held at 
" the Infant School-room in Vincent-square," in February, 
1832, for the adoption of the Act i and 2 Will. IV., cap. 60, 
commonly known as Hobhouse's Act, by which the power of 
electing their representatives was conferred upon the rate- 
payers. There were 1,469 householders in the parish at 
the time, of whom 637 were qualified to vote when the 
sense of the parish \\as taken. Of these 443 declared them- 
selves in favour of the change, eight were against it, and 
186 did not fill up the voting papers left at their houses for 
the purpose. The Act was thereupon adopted ; 
" But when men think they most in safety stand, 
Their greatest peril often is at hand." 



204 Self-government of the parish. 

A few years brought an unlocked for and inextricable 
complication, arising from the non-adoption of the new Act 
in St. Margaret's parish. Certain ratepayers in St. John's 
parish objected to pay their paving rate on the ground 
that under the peculiar constitution of the two parishes by 
the Act of 1752, neither of them, acting separately, could 
adopt Hobhouse's Act ; that the Vestry of St. John's, being 
illegally constituted, could not legally become or appoint 
Paving Commissioners, and that the Paving Rate, being 
illegally made, could not be enforced. A case for the 
opinion of counsel was stated, and placed before Sir Fitzroy 
Kelly, Mr. Tomlinson, and Mr. W. H. Bodkin, who all ad- 
vised that the objection was valid, and that the election of 
vestrymen by the popular vote must be adopted in the two 
parishes or not at all. The arrears of rates, extending over 
several years, were thereupon written off, and the " select " 
vestry system reverted to ; but not until seven members, 
who had been elected under Hobhouse's Act and persisted 
in attending the meeting of the United Vestries on 23rd 
May, 1848, were compelled to withdraw as having no legal 
right to be present. By this time, however, the days of the 
"select" .system in London had become numbered. By the 
appalling visitation of cholera in 1848, public attention 
became drawn irresistibly to the absence of any efficient 
system of sanitation in the metropolis generally ; but no 
effective legislation took place until 1855, when the second 
epidemic of cholera in 1854 gave a powerful impetus 
to the contemplated reform. 

So incomplete was the application of the many statutes 
relating to the paving, lighting, and general sanitation of 
the parish at this time, that there were more than three 
miles of streets and places without sewers, and, as a conse- 
quence, there was no other drainage for the houses fronting 
those streets than the primitive and (in a crowded parish) 
intolerable cesspool, which was found to be defective in up- 
wards of 700 cases ; there were 400 open privies, 900 w.c.'s 



Need for improvcuiait. 205 

without water supply, upwards of 300 houses without recep- 
tacles for their refuse, and rather more than 200 instances 
in which the water supply was obtained through water- 
butts, unfit for use, owing to their unwholesome condition. 
There were also 76,000 square yards of roadway, and 1 2,700 
square yards of footway without any description of paving. 
In the evidence taken by a Select Committee of the House 
of Commons in 1852 upon the subject of the water supply 
in the metropolis, it was stated that Westminster still 
derived its water " from the impure source abandoned by 
the other companies," while the water-cart was only used 
in those few streets in which the inhabitants subscribed, by 
a voluntary rate, to defray the expense. With the nuisances 
of which our forefathers had to complain we are totally 
unacquainted. In 1844 there were three 'bone-factories/ 
a lucifer match manufactory, " the keeping of an immense 
quantity of geese," and "the boiling of materials used in the 
japanning of leather," among the causes of dissatisfaction, 
while earlier, the establishment of the gas works in Great 
Peter-street gave rise to repeated representations by the 
inhabitants, and the strong arm of the law was more than 
once moved to suppress annoyances at a large piece of 
ground called the Swiss Ground (between New Tothill- 
street and the New Way, the site of the present Victoria 
Mansions), occupied by persons who kept large numbers of 
pigs in styes, where " great quantities of dust, filth and 
ashes in prodigious heaps above the height of the walls of 
the surrounding gardens suffocated the inhabitants with the 
stench." 

On the 17th March, 1855, Sir Benjamin Hall, as president 
of the Board of Health, introduced his " Bill for the Better 
Local Management of the Metropolis," amidst a vigorous 
and impatient opposition, which, however, he skilfully over- 
came. In the course of the debate upon the Bill, the un- 
satisfactory state of affairs in Westminster was adduced as 
evidence of the need of reform. Having passed into law in 



2o6 Self-govej'njnent of the parish. 

August of the same year, the effect of the Act upon West- 
minster was to abolish the two ' select ' vestries and all the 
other authorities elected by or associated with them. These 
were replaced by a vestry in each parish, elected by the rate- 
payers, and by a District Board of Works appointed by the 
joint Vestries. The duties of the Library Commissioners, 
the Baths and Wash-houses Commissioners, and the Burial 
Board, and of the United Vestries as the ratrng authority 
under the Act of 1752, were not affected by the new law, 
except that the United Vestries became the authority for 
levying and collecting the sums to be expended by the Dis- 
trict Board of Works, the Burial Board, the Commissioners 
for Libraries and those for Baths and Wash-houses. The 
Vestry of St. John's parish, remodelled upon the elective 
principle, and the District Board of Works, upon which 
the representatives of St. John's parish were appointed by 
the parish Vestry, commenced their duties under the new 
Act on 1st January, 1856, and continued until 25th March, 
1888, when the District Board of Works was dissolved, and 
its duties, properties, and liabilities transferred to the 
' United Vestry ' of the two parishes, by virtue of an Act 
passed in 50 and 51 Vict., cap. ly (1887) under circum- 
stances fully detailed in the Thirty-First Report of the 
District Board of Works, pp. 29 — 35. Thus the self- 
government of the two parishes is restored, but with the 
advantage of direct election by, and responsibility to the 
ratepayers, to the position it occupied prior to 1752, when 
the affairs of the area now comprised within the boundaries 
of the two parishes were administered by one local govern- 
ing body. The principal duty reserved to the Vestry of 
St. John's, acting independently, is that of appointing 
churchwardens ; but, acting conjointly with their neighbours 
of St. Margaret, as a ' United Vestry,' they have an equal 
voice and power in all that pertains to the temporal 
welfare of the two parishes. 

Of the three auxiliary bodies, whose functions were in no 



Three auxiliary coviniissions. 207 

way affected by the Act of 1888. the oldest is the Baths 
and Wash-houses Commission. Their powers are derived 
from two Acts of Parliament passed in 1846 and 1847 
(9 and 10 Vict., cap. 74, and 10 and 11 Vict., cap. 61) 
which are to be considered as one Act. The Act, entrusts 
Vestries with the appointment of Commissioners, and with 
a discretionary power as to the extent to which the poor 
rate shall be charged with the expenditure. A further 
reference is made to the establishment under the manage- 
ment of the Commission in chapter XV. 

The Commissioners of Free Public Libraries are consti- 
tuted under the Act 13 and 14 Vict, cap. 65 (1850), and 
the numerous Acts amending or extending it, which have 
been incorporated in the Public Libraries (Consolidation) 
Act of last Session (55 and 56 Vict., cap. 53). In so far as 
the expenditure affects the poor rate, the Vestry, who 
appoint the Commissioners, have a controlling power ; in 
other respects, like their brethren of the Baths and Wash- 
houses, they are entrusted with independent powers. A 
notice of the Library conducted by the Commission is 
reserved for chapter XV. 

The third of the smaller corporate bodies is the Burial 
Board, which was called into existence on the 29th 
November, 1852, when the Vestry adopted the Act which 
empowered them to appoint such a Board for the purpose 
of providing a new burial place, and of maintaining the 
disused churchyards of St. Margaret's and Christ Church, 
and the burial ground of St. John's. The first Burial 
Board appointed after the adoption of the Act consisted of 
Canon Jennings, Sir William Page Wood, M.P. (afterwards 
Lord Hatherley) Taverner John Miller, Esq., J. P., M.P., 
Hartwell John Maude, Esq., Mr. Joseph Carter Wood, 
Mr. George Wilson, and Mr. James Bigg. 

After a proposal to purchase 21 acres of land at Garrett 
Farm, Tooting, had been rejected, the provision of addi- 
tional space for interments was effected by agreements 



2o8 Sclf-governvient of the parish. 

between the Board and the London Necropolis Company, 
dated respectively 2ist April, 1855, 14th April, 1858, 
lOth November, 1858, and 30th December, 1863. By the 
first of these deeds six acres of land in the consecrated 
part, and two acres in the unconsecrated part of the 
cemetery at Woking were set apart for burials from the two 
parishes; and by the subsequent indentures exchanges 
were effected, but very few interments have taken place in 
any part of the ground reserved to Westminster. This has 
been attributed partly to the fact that such provision has 
not been publicly made known among the parishioners, 
partly to the preference given to Brompton Cemetery as 
being more accessible, and partly to the fact that the duties 
in relation to 'parish' burials were transferred from the 
Governors and Directors of the poor of St. Margaret and 
St. John, to the Board of Guardians of St. George's Union 
by an Order of the Poor Law Board in August, 1867. From 
that time the Burial Board have had no further duty than the 
maintenance of the churchyards of St. Margaret's and Christ 
Church, the management of the burial ground of St. John's 
having been transferred to the United Vestry under the 
Open Spaces Act of 1881 {see page 128), and the Metropolis 
Local Management(Battersea and Westminster) Act of 1 887. 
Another important branch of the Vestry's business re- 
mains to be called to mind — the protection of the lives and 
properties of the inhabitants by means of ' the Watch." 
No department of the local administration was such a con- 
stant source of trouble and anxiety, from the commence- 
ment of the Vestry's operations in 1728 until 1830 — just over 
a hundred years — when the superannuated paupers vanished 
at the approach of the strong and sturdy "force" inaugurated 
by Sir Robert Peel. It is impossible to conceive any institu- 
tion more unfitted for the demands of society, more corrupt, 
or more inefficient. Infirm and decrepid, unable to work, 
and oftentimes in the receipt of relief from ' the parish,' the 
old men were given ' a beat ' and twelve shillingfs a week, 



" The. W ate J I ought to offend uo vian." 209 

without much regard to their physical capabilities. Supplied 
each with a rattle, a staff, and a treble-caped great coat, a 
lanthorn, — and with it the lives and properties of the 
parishioners, — was placed in their hands. With little 
wooden boxes against the wall, to shelter them from rain 
or storm (but in which they often snored away the greater 
part of the night) they would totter round their beats, 
carrying their dark lanterns, (the horn black with the smoke 
of many candles) and ' shouting ' as loudly as their feeble 
voices and husky throats would permit, the hour of the 
night and the state of the weather. The monotony of these 
muttering and almost inaudible announcements was some- 
times varied by an alarming cry of " Watch ! " " Watch ! ! " 
repeated until the whole neighbourhood was disturbed and 
the somnambulistic " Charley " appeared on the scene in 
response, when he would be coolly told to return to his box 
and " sleep it out." 

Occasionally a cry of " Help ! " and the springing of a 
rattle would arouse the sleeping citizen ; but his good 
citizenship, taught by experience, generally applied itself 
to trying the bolts, double-locking the street door, securing 
the windows, and returning to his couch, hoping the 
guardian of the night had mistaken a practical joker for a 
desperate offender. So far from deterring these two mis- 
chievious classes, the inefficiency of ' the watch ' encouraged 
them, although the existence of 997 licensed houses in the 
City and Liberties of Westminster (one-fifth of the entire 
number in the metropolis) in 1796, would seem to have 
called for special vigilance and activity. 

It is not intended for a moment, however, to imply that 
the inefficiency of ' the watch ' was peculiar to ' our parish.' 
.•\ ' Treatise on the Police of the Metropolis^, by Patrick 
Colquhoun, LL.D., a magistrate at the Queen Square Police 
Office (Lond. 1796) declared that "watchmen and patroles, 
owing to their being comparatively of little use from their 
age, infirmity, inability, inattention or corrupt practices, 



2IO Self -gov eminent of the parish. 

form a system without energy, disjointed, and governed by 
almost as many different Acts of Parliament as there are 
parishes, hamlets, liberties and precincts within the Bills of 
Mortality. . . Not a small proportion of the very men 
who are paid for protecting the public, are not only instru- 
ments of oppression in many instances, by extorting money 
most unwarrantably ; but are also not seldom accessories in 
aiding, abetting or concealing the commission of crimes." 
Nor is it intended to imply that the shortcomings of the 
system had become notorious for the first time at the com- 
mencement of the present century. Dogberry's charges to 
the Watch in Shakspeare's Much Ado about Nothing (Act 
III., Sc. 3) have only to be mentioned as a pleasant remin- 
der to the contrary. 

In .1734 and the two following years the necessity for 
improving the service was repeatedly discussed by ' our 
Vestry,' and in 1736 they combined with the Vestry of St. 
Margaret's to give effect to one of the many Acts passed 
with the object of placing the system on an efficient footing. 
Rounds were assigned, the ' stands ' were re-arranged, the 
men ■were ordered to carry a lanthorn and candle, to be 
armed with an " ashen staff," to declare " with a distinct and 
loud voice the time of the night and morning," and to wear 
" a portcullis brass badge on their upper coat or garment." 
Among the accounts paid by the Vestry on 3rd August, 
1738, was one : — 

To Mr. John Smith, one of the Churchwardens of St. 
Margaret's, 1736, disbursed by him on account of 
the death of Charles Dubois, ^ watchman, who 
was murdered by one man ... ... ... ... £y 15 2 

On 1 3th February, 1772, an additional code of regulations 

was drawn up with special reference to the use of rattles 

and to ensure " the certainty of the watch always taking 

the said rattles with them." In 181 3, when there were less 

than 30 men employed, the watch-rate was gd. in the £.* 

* At the present time the payment on account of the Police is equivalent to 
5d. ill the £, and the numerical strength of the force engaged in St. John's is 
fibout 135. 



" We find the slothful Watch but weak!' 2 1 1 

As illustrating the minor troubles of the Vestry and its 
committees in keeping the movements of the Watch in 
order, a very few extracts are sufficient : — 

28th Jtely, 1826. Jeromes, Charles. Asleep at half-past two 
o'clock, and calling on another watchman's beat and locking- 
up a drunken man and a dog in his watch-box. Found by 
the Sergeant. 
^rd Sept., 1S26. Jeromes, Charles. Found by the Sergeant 10 
minutes past one o'clock in another watchman's beat, with 
his lantern on his back quite incapable of doing his duty ; 
sent home. Discharged 13th Sept., 1826. 

St/i Nov., 1826. Cooksey, Daniel, Patrole. For being in liquor, 
and neglect of duty, and likewise for going to the watchman, 
wishing them to state a falsehood that he had done his duty 
and that he was not in liquor. Reported by the Sergeant. 

Discharged 5th Feb., 1827. 
ijth June, 182/'. Perry, Thomas. For missing duty two nights 
without leave, the 2nd and 3rd June. Reported by the 
Sergeant. Fine One Shilling. 

21^/1 October, 1S2'/. Barton, Richard. For being in liquor at 
half-past one o'clock, and calling the wrong hour and behav- 
ing contemptuously to the Sergeant and Patrole, and likewise 
abusing the Patrol in a shameful manner and taking off his 
Watch Coat and throwing it in the flags amongst the mud in 
a contemptuous manner. Reported by the Sergeant. 

Discharged. 
/oth Jtene, i82g. Thompson, John. For neglect of duty for not 
reporting the moving of Goods in Douglas-street in proper 
time. Repoi't by the Sergeant. Fined One Shilling. 

Here we take leave of a system which, the subject of 
ridicule in Shakspeare's time, had become utterly worthless 
and contemptible as a means of preventing crime in the 
first quarter of the present century. 

As ' the watch ' withdrew from the streets of St. John's, 

the candle lanterns and the oil lamps, which had been their 

nightly companions, disappeared also, to make way for an 

improvement in public lighting as great as that which 

attended the introduction of the police for the public 

protection. 

" The gas up-blazes with its bright, white light 
And paralytic watchmen prowl, howl, growl. 
Now thieves to enter for your cash, smash, crash ; 
Past drowsy Charley, in a deep sleep, creep. 
But frightened by Policeman B 3, flee." 

Hood, 



212 Self-government of the parish. 

Next to ' the watch,' the service which occasioned con- 
stant complaint, in the local board-room and out of it, was 
the lighting of the public streets, although in the latter, as 
in the former, the local authorities could only administer 
the law as they found it, and petition Parliament to remedy 
the defects discovered by experience. When the Vestry 
came into existence, the Act of 14 Charles II., cap. 2 (1674) 
as amended by 2 William and Mary, cap. 8, was still in 
force. These Acts imposed upon householders the obliga- 
tion of hanging out candles until nine (the time was 
extended by the second Act to twelve) o'clock at night, 
under a penalty of two shillings for each default. 

Charles Knight, in his Midsiimmer-eve refers to this 

duty : — 

A light here, maids, hang out your hght, 
And see your horns be clear and bright, 
That so your candle clear may shjne, 
Continuing from six to nine ; 
That honest men that walk along 
May see to pass safe without wrong. 

The number of defaulters under the above Acts was so 
great, however, that the Magistrates passed an order that the 
parties summoned should be brought before them " from 
one street at a time so as to avoid crowd and confusion " ; 
then, as the public bodies began to exhibit lights at some 
of the street corners, the Magistrates advised the residents 
to subscribe towards the cost |of such provision, and pro- 
mised exemption of penalties if they acted on the advice. 

In 1786 the Vestry called the attention of Parliament to 
the necessity for some more effectual system, alleging in 
their petition " that many of the street robberies, burglaries, 
murders, and other crimes, are greatly owing to the in- 
sufficient lighting of the streets " ; but notwithstanding 
that Whitehall and the other approaches to the Houses of 
Parliament were entirely without street lights except in the 
winter months, when they were lighted by the Government, 
the powers asked for were not granted until 1762.* Mean- 
* The Act of 1752 contained no provision as to lighting. 



Dangers of the streets by night. 213 

while such h'ghts as were seen out of doors were carried by 
the watchman and the link-boy, the one incapable, the 
other dishonest — if we may accept Gay's description of the 
fraternity : — 

Though thou art tempted by the linkman's call, 
Yet trust him not along the lonely wall ; 
In the midway he'll quench the flaming brand, 
And share the booty with the pilfering band. 
Still keep the public streets where oily rays. 
Shot from the crystal lamps, o'erspread thy ways. 

The dangers attending a walk in the streets after sunset 
were noticed by many of the writers of the time. Thus we 
find Johnson, in his London, offering a word of warning, in 
which, however, he suggests that some advantage was ob- 
tained by engaging "the officious linkboy's smoky light": — 

Prepare for death if here at night you roam. 
And sign your will before you sup from home. 
Some fiery fop, with new commission vain, 
Who sleeps on brambles till he kills his man, — 
Some frolic drunkard, reeling from a feast, 
Provokes a broil, and stabs you for a jest. 
Yet even these heroes, mischievously gay, 
Lords of the street and terrors of the way, 
Flush'd as they are with folly, youth, and wine, 
Their prudent insult to the poor confine ; 
Afar they mark the flambeau's bright approach. 
And shun the shining train and golden coach. 

Besides the frolicsome drunkard, there were others who 
formed themselves into clubs or societies for the express 
purpose of lawlessness during the dark evenings, before the 
streets were deserted or the householders retired to rest. 
Among these were the '* Mohocks " and the " Nickers " who 
collectively visited the parishes within easy reach of the 
City, the former to insult or assault pedestrians of all classes, 
whether lighted by the link-boy's flambeau or not ; the latter 
to spread terror within doors by breaking all the windows 
which could be reached by throwing the heavy copper coins 
of the day. Dangers of this kind, which as much beset the 

O 



214 Self-govermnc7it of the parish. 

person and property of the Cabinet Minister as the cottager, 
were noticed by Gay : — 

Now is the time that rakes their revels keep, 

Kindlers of riot, enemies of sleep ; 

His scattered pence the flying Nicker flings. 

And with the copper shower the casement rings. 

Who has not heard the Scowerer's mid-night fame? 

Who has not trembled at the Mohocks name ? 

Was there a watchman took his hourly rounds 

Safe from their blows or new invented wounds ? 

The authority to hght certain of the public streets in 
Westminster, given by the Act of 1762, was extended to 
other streets by an Act passed in 1782, and by 1793 there 
were 220 " globular-glass lamps with oil and cotton and two 
burners each." By this time the lamplighter was fairly es- 
tablished in his glory. He might be seen every morning 
hurrying through the ill-paved streets, and his ladder might 
be felt, driven against the breast, as he hastily turned the 
street corner, or his oil might be smelt on the pedestrian's 
clothes after it had fallen from a defective lamp as he passed 
beneath it. Yet the day was proud of its lamps, which 
Bechmann, in his History of Inventions, described as 
" something like a wonder of the world." Nevertheless, 
great as was this stride in the march of improvement, the 
system by no means met the requirements, for many of the 
poorer streets, which were not paved because of the inability 
of the residents to pay the rate, were not lighted for the 
same reason, and many of the streets in which lamps were 
placed were frequently left in darkness either after midnight 
or throughout the night, or for several nights in succession, 
owing to the perfunctory execution of the work by the con- 
tractors. 

By the provisions of the Act of 1762 the Magistrates 
were armed with very stringent powers for the punishment 
of negligent lamplighters, the exercise of which did not es- 
cape the observant eye of Churchill : — ■ 

Or like those lamps which by the power 

Of law, must burn from hour to hour, 

(Else they, without redemption, fall 

Under the terrors of the Hall, 



^^No candles now, for dark is light T 215 

Which, once notorious for a hop, 

Is now become a justice shop*) 

Which are so managed to go out 

Just when the time comes round about ; 

Which yet, through emulation, strive 

To keep their dying hght alive, 

And (not uncommon as we find 

Amongst the children of mankind) 

As they grow weaker would seem stronger, 

And burn a little, little longer." 

Stringent specifications and contracts were drawn up, 
fines were imposed, contracts were annulled ; yet all failed 
to allay the almost incessant expressions of dissatisfaction. 
But while the law was displaying its weakness, science was 
quietly developing a remedy, of which Dr. Johnson is said 
to have had a prevision. f 

The Very Rev. Dr. Clayton, Dean of Kildare, having 
experimentally ascertained that a permanently elastic and 
inflammable aeriform fluid is evolved from pit-coal, de- 
scribed the same in a letter to the Hon. Robert Boyle in 
1691 ; and the Miscellanea Curiosa, 1705-7, Vol. III., p. 281, 
shows that the Doctor also discovered that gas retains its 
inflammability after passing through water. Hughes, in 
his Treatise on Gas Works, 1853, credits Dr. Watson, 
Bishop of Llandaff, with having given " the first notice of 
the important fact." In 1792 William Murdoch demon- 
strated the possibility of lighting by gas in Birmingham, 
Manchester, and Redruth, in Cornwall. In 1798 he applied 
his system to the factory of Messrs. Bolton and Watt, in Bir- 
mingham, and in 1805 to the cotton mills of Messrs. Phillips 

* The Westminster Petty Sessions were then held at a building in King- 
street, which had formerly been a dancing room and low place of public 
entertainment. 

t Sitting at the window of his house in Bolt Court one evening, Dr. lohnson 
observed the parish lami)lighter ascend a ladder to light one of the glimmering 
oil lamps. The man had scarcely descended half way when the flame went 
out. (Quickly returning, he lifted the cover partially, and thrusting the end of 
his torch beneath it, the flame was ins.antly communicated to the wick by the 
lliick vapour which issueil from it. " Ah ! " exclaimed the Doctor, " one of 
these days the streets of London will be lighted by smoke 1 " Timl/s Curiosi- 
lies of London. 

O 2 



21.6 Self-government of the parish. 

and Lee, at Salford. In 1803-4, Frederick Albert Winsor, 
a German, after many experiments, lighted the old Lyceum 
Theatre by the same means. He thereupon promoted a 
new Light and Heat Company, with a capital of ;!f 50,000, 
to enable him to continue his experiments, and to extend 
the new method of lighting. In 1807 the new light was 
brought into use on one side of Pall Mall, on the wall 
between Pall Mall and St. James's Park, for illuminations 
on the King's birthday, and at the Golden-lane Brewery. 
Having applied for Parliamentary powers in 1809, the 
Chartered Gas Company of London was incorporated under 
the authority of Parliament in 1810. Their first establish- 
ment was in Cannon-row, whence it was soon removed to 
the site of a market garden and tea-gardens between Great 
Peter-street and Horseferry-road. In 181 3 the new light 
was used in St. John's Church ; in 18 14 in St. Margaret's 
Church, on Westminster-bridge, and in several of the 
principal thoroughfares. Thus a system which is said to 
have been " commonly employed by the Chinese for ages,'' 
and which evoked the unspairing opposition of Mr. 
Brougham, F.R.S., Sir Humphry Davy, President of the 
Royal Society, and a Deputation of Fellows of the same 
learned Society, who speculated " upon the most fright- 
ful consequences from the leakage and explosion of the 
gasometer," took root in ' our parish,' and thence spread 
with more or less rapidity, throughout Europe, and 
America, and most of the principal towns in Australia 
and New Zealand. 

In the commencement of their business in Great Peter 
street, the Company received every reasonable encourage- 
ment from the local authorities with respect to the laying 
of mains, though the neglect to reinstate the roadways, and 
the offensive smells given off in some parts of the manu- 
facturing process, were the subject of frequent complaint. 
The efforts to enforce the abatement of the nuisances pro- 
duced very little effect for many years. Not only was an 



Developuicnt of gas-ligJiting. 2i^ 

enormous quantity of foul smcllini^ water cliscliargcd from 
the works along the open channels in the streets, but offen- 
sive vapours were allowed to escape in such volumes as to 
annoy the residents far beyond the limits of the parish. 
On Sunday, loth July, 1849, the nuisance was so intolerable 
and extensive that many of the congregation assembled 
in St. John's and St. Margaret's Churches had to leave 
before the conclusion of the services. An investigation was 
shortly afterwards made by chemists, engineers, and other 
specialists, upon whose advice the company adopted such 
alterations in their process and apparatus as brought about 
great improvement. 

The company's pipes were laid in Church-street, Mill- 
bank-street, Palace-yard, Great Smith-street, Great Peter- 
street, Dean-street, Strutton-ground, the Broadway, and 
Artillery-place, in 18 14. In 18 17 permission was given to 
lay pipes in "the principal streets of the parish," which were 
specified as Marsham-street, Tufton-street, Great College- 
street, Bowling-street, Little Smith-street, Millbank-row 
and Romney-street. The work was not completed until 
1 8 19, when several of the smaller streets were also lighted 
for the first time with gas. The price of gas in 18 17 was 
15s. per 1,000 cubic feet, the annual cost of gas consumed 
in the street lamps was £t, 3s, per lamp, and that of oil 
lamps £1 6s. per annum. The use of oil lamps was not 
finally discontinued until 1835-6, by which time the gas 
service had become general throughout the whole of the 
parish. 

The proceedings of the local governing bodies in relation 
to the relief of the poor, drainage, street obstructions, and 
road-making i)resent no features worthy of special mention 
in such memorials as the present ; but in passing over them 
we may refer to a proposal to adopt in Church-street an 
experimental piece of wood [)a\'ing on a system for which 
a patent was obtained by a Mr. Stead in 1839. The pa\e- 
ment was to be of " round blocks laid vertically, about se\en 



2 1 8 Self-government of the parisJi. 

or eight inches in diameter, some nine inches, some six 
inches deep," in resemblance of " the very fine roads of this 
description in Prussia." The experiment was sanctioned 
13th October, 1840; in 1841 an offer was made by the 
"MetropoHtanWood Pavement Company "to lay a somewhat 
similar kind of pavement, with iron rods, at twelve shillings 
per yard super, and in 1841 the inhabitants of Millbank- 
row and Millbank-street petitioned that wood paving might 
be laid in the carriage way of those thoroughfares ; but 
from the request not having been granted, it may be in- 
ferred that the new method was not regarded with favour. 
An allusion to the circumstance is justified, however, as 
showing that the idea of paving roadways with wood blocks 
laid vertically, as now extensively adopted in nearly all the 
London parishes, had its origin in St. John's a generation 
prior to the recent revival of the system. 

A brief reference to the fire-extinguishing arrangements, 
as among the responsibilities devolving upon ' the parish,' 
must not be omitted from a sketch on self-government. 
For the purposes of this service the Vestry had not to v/ait, 
as in the case of the public lighting, for statutory powers. 
Acts of Parliament passed in the 6th Anns, cap. 17 and 31, 
had empowered local authorities to make all necessary pro- 
vision. An engine-house was accordingly erected in Regent- 
place,* at the junction of Regency-street with Horseferry- 
road, a hand-engine was purchased, ladders and buckets 
were provided, and the equipment made as complete as 
possible. In 1754 two new engines were purchased by 
public subscriptions, and 1,000 copies of a section in the 
Act of Queen Anne were printed and circulated " to warn 
servants against setting fire to houses." 

The accounts abound in entries of rewards paid to the 
engine keeper for attendance at fires, though the engine 
from St. Margaret's, possibly owing to horses being used, 

" The structure was demolished and ihc site cleared in iS66. A water trough 
now stands on part of the site. 



Fire engines and ladders. 219 

(harness for two horses was purchased in 1725), generally 
outvied that of ' our parish ' in being" the first to arrive. 
Sometimes, however, the prize was taken by one of the 
Insurance Companies' engines, in which case that of St. 
John's would take the third place. The rewards were 
generally 40s., 30s., and 20s. for the first three arrivals 
respectively, while those for the first ladders were 20s. for a 
four-storey, 15s. for a three-storey, and los. for a two- 
storey. On 1 6th December, 1797, an enquiry took place 
into the delay and inactiviiy of 'the staff' at a fire in 
Millbank-street, where the engine was in attendance half- 
an-hour before water could be obtained, notwithstanding the 
proximity of the river. It was then discovered that " the 
pipes were mixed and twisted together and half the 
suction pipe was missing " — such an occurrence as Hood 
describes : — 

Tlie engines I hear them come rumbling ; 

There's the Phcenix ! the Globe ! and the Sun ! 
What a row there will be, and a grumbling 

When the water don't start for a run ! 
See I there they come racing and tearing. 

All the street with loud voices is filled ; 
Oh ! it's only the firemen a-swearing 

At a man they've run over and killed ! 
How sweetly the sparks fly away now, 

And twinkle like stars in the sky. 
It's a wonder the engines don't play now ; 

But I never saw water so shy ! 
Why, there isn't enough for a snipe, 

And the fire it is fiercer, alas ! 
Oh I instead of the Company pipe, 

They have gone — that they ha\e— to the gas I 

On the 1 6th January, 1802, the Vestry inquired into the 
circumstances, in usurpation it would appear, at first sight, 
of the coroner's functions, of a fire which had occurred at a 
house at the rear of No. 3, l^urton-street, occupied by a 
printseller named Cartwright, who had obtained ;^979 from 
an insurance office as compensation. A certificate of 
" accidental " was given, and the claim was found to be 



220 Self-governfiient of the parish. 

correct, "except that the value was calculated on the selling 
price instead of that at which the goods were purchased." 

In common with other similar bodies in the metropolis, 
the Vestry of St. John's were relieved of their responsibility 
in the matter of fire extinction in 1866, when the Metro- 
politan Fire Brigade was appointed. The engines were 
not accepted by the Metropolitan Board of Works as 
suitable for the purposes of the new brigade, in consequence 
of which they were sold, and the proceeds carried to the 
parish account. 

The functions of the Tothill Fields Trust which was con- 
stituted in 1826 {see p. 202) were limited, as its name 
implies, to the district known as Tothill fields, except that 
Rochester-row was specially exempted from the jurisdiction. 
The boundaries may be described roughly as Francis-street 
(in the parish of St. Margaret) on the north, the river on 
the south, Horseferry-road on the east, and Vauxhall bridge- 
road on the west. Except that the Act by which they were 
constituted, did not empower them to water the streets, their 
functions resembled those of the Vestry and the various 
Commissions, and do not therefore call for further notice. 
Their office and board room were at a small house, of 
which a sketch is given on the following page, at the 
corner of Fynes-street and Carey-street, facing Vincent- 
square. 

In closing this chapter with only a passing allusion to the 
proceedings of the Court of Burgesses, as one of the local 
governing bodies, it maybe explained that the "Ordinances" 
made under the Acts of 27 Elizabeth, by which the Court 
was incorporated, had become ineffective at the date of the 
formation of the parish. The principal duty remaining in 
their hands was the enforcement of the law relating to 
weights and measures, which duty they continued to dis- 
charge until the Act of 1888 transferred it to the London 
County Council. Some notes on the constitution and 
" Ordinances " of the Court were published in Local Govern- 
ment in Westminster \n 1889. 



521 




A further stroll about tlie parish. 



Chapter VIII. 



ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS OF THE PARISH. 



Who buikls a church to God and not to fame, 
Will ne\t'r mark the marble with his name. 

Poi'E. 

As to the sandy desert fountains are, 
With palm groves shaded at wide intervals ; 
Such to this British Isle her Christian fanes, 
Each linked to each for kindred services. 

WoRDSWOKTH. 



Statistics of the Districts. — St. Mary the Virgin. — Parsonage house. — 
Two singular entries in the marriage register. — St. Stephen, Roches- 
ter Row. — Description of the Church. — The consecration ceremony. 
— The bells. — St. Matthew, Great Peter-street. — Condition of dis- 
trict thirty years ago. — Laying the foundation stone. — Architecture 
and ornaments. — Agencies for the benefit of the poor. — Holy Trinity, 
Bessborough -gardens. — Inscription on Foundation-stone. — Architec- 
tural features. — Vicars. — St. James-the-Less, Upper Garden-street. 
— Architectural description of the church. — Vicars. —St. Mary's 
Roman Catholic Church. — The "Irvingites" Church. — The Wesleyan 
Chapel. , jj ■■'!■ 

A FTER inspecting the Church and tlie burial ground, 
our ramble round the parish was interrupted to enable 
us to look through the album of the rectors, the curates 
and lecturers, and the parish officers, and to make a retro- 
spect of the self-government of the parish. We now resume 
our walk for a survey of the five ecclesiastical districts 
formed within the boundaries during the first thirty years 
of Archdeacon Jennings' rectorship, and more particularly 
to notice the churches from \\-hich those districts or parishes 
derive their respective names. The plan given on the 
opposite page has been specially drawn to show the boun- 
daries of the several parishes in a more convenient manner 



The Ecclesiastical Divisions. 



2i3 



J 




Plan of the Parish of Saint John the Evangelist, showing the 
ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS. 

(Reproauccd from Stanford's six inch map of London.) 



Date of 


Inhahitcd 


Popula- 


Forjiiation. 


Himscs. 


tion. 


.. 1727 .. 


950 ... 


10,512 


.. 184I .. 


686 ... 


5,500 


.. 1850 .. 


815 ... 


6,030 


.. 1852 .. 


718 ... 


7,071 


.. 1850 .. 


529 ... 


6,199 


.. 1861 .. 


.3.37 ■•• 


3,283 



524 The Ecclesiastical Divisions. 

than could be done by a verbal description. The report of 
the Census Commissioners for 1881 * (published in 1884) 
gives the following statistics of the parishes, including that 
reserved to the mother church : — 

Parisli. 

St. John-the-Evangelist 

St. Mary-the-Virgin, Tothill-fields . 

St. Stephen, Rochester-row 

Holy Trinity, Vauxhall-bridge-road. 

St. Matthew, Great Peter-street 

St. James-the-Less, Upper Garden-street.. 1861 

The dates as to the formation of the parishes must not, 
however, be accepted without reservation, e.g.., the parish of 
St. John was created by Instrument inrolled in the High 
Court of Chancery on 8th January, 1724 (see p. g), and 
the church consecrated on the 20th June, 1728; although 
the Order in Council setting out the parish of St. Mary-the- 
Virgin was dated the 4th June, 1841, the church was con- 
secrated on 1 2th October, 1837 ; and the foundation stones 
of St. Matthew's and Holy Trinity Churches were both laid 
on 8th November, 1849, the consecration of the former 
taking place in July, 1851, and that of Holy Trinity in 
the following year. The Order in Council defining the 
parish of St. Matthew was dated 7th August, 185 1 ; that 
relating to Holy Trinity was issued 30th June, 1852. The 
first of the districts separated from the mother parish was 
that of 

ST. MARY-THE-VIRGIN, TOTHILL FIELDS. 

The Church, which contains 1,000 seats, is a modest brick 
building, with stone dressings, in the 'Debased Gothic' style, 
from the designs of Mr. Edward Blore, on the south-east 
side of Vincent-square, and owes its dedication to St. Mary 
to the fact that Archdeacon Jennings' only child at that 

* The report of the Censu.s Commis.sioners for 1S91, in relation to the 
ecclesiastical parishes or districts, is not yet published. 



St. Mary-tJie- Virgin. 225 

time was named Mary.* The site was given by the Dean 
and Chapter of Westminster ; the Church Commissioners 
contributed ^^"3,000 towards the cost of the building, the 
Incorporated Church Building Society gave ;^500, and 
Lord Bexley presented p^ioo and the church-plate used at 
the administration of the Holy Communion. The coloured 
glass windows in the clerestory, by Clayton and Bell, are 
in memory of Mrs. Knowles, the daughter of the Rev. 
Abraham Borradaile, the first vicar, and were the gift of 
her husband. The stained glass at the west end of the 
north side, near the vestry door, was placed there by the 
congregation in memory of the first wife of Mr. Borradaile, 
representing her as Dorcas. The window over the Vestry 
door was presented by Miss Evans, in memory of her 
father ; the two at the west end were given by Miss 
Colquhoun in remembrance of a friend connected with the 
church, and that near the organ was contributed by Martha 
Bradley, a valued servant of the first vicar, to the memory 
of her brother. On the sill of the east window, which 
contains representations of six New Testament subjects in 
coloured glass, is a brass commemorating the affectionate 
regard in which the Rev. George Rawlinson, one of the 
first curates, was held on account of his zealous labours in 
the parish. The brass lectern was added by the congre- 
gation as a tribute to the memory of the Rev. Abraham 
Borradaile, while the church is indebted to the efforts of the 
second Vicar, the Rev. Arthur George Warner for the 
organ, built by Holditch in 1874, the cost of which was 
defrayed by subscriptions, including one of ;i^iC)0 by the 
Worshipful Company of Grocers. 

The west gallery and the portico and door at the east 
end of the north side, were removed in 1888, when also a 
general cleaning and restoration of the interior was carried 
out, under Messrs. Powers, Clarke, and Micklethwaite, 

* Miss Jennings married the Rev. Henry Wagner, who was for upwards of 
fifty years rector of Brighton, 



226 TJic Ecclesiastical Divisions. 

architects, at a cost of ;^i,300, towards which the Incor- 
porated Society for Building Churches gave ^^"50 on con- 
dition that all the seats should be free. 

The parsonage house was erected through the efforts of 
Archdeacon Jennings, who, " out of his own proper moneys " 
purchased the leasehold of the site. The cost of the build- 
ing was defrayed by the aid of an Order in Council dated 
nth August, 1841, which directed the appropriation of 
i^970 1 8s. 2d. by the Governors of Queen Anne's Bounty 
to the purpose. 

The marriage register contains an entry of the union, 
in February, 185 1, of Charles Beans, a greengrocer, to 
Rebecca Bacon; and in August, 1852, the congregation 
were .surprised by the " asking " of a Mr. Buggs and a Miss 
Bedstead. When the happy morning came, however, the 
register was signed by Alfred Buggs and Elizabeth 
Benstead. 

The living has been held successively by the Rev. 
Abraham Borradaile (i 841 -1873), formerly curate of the 
mother church (see p. 115) ; from 1873 to 1887 by the Rev. 
Arthur George Warner, also formerly a curate with Arch- 
deacon Jennings, and now rector of St. Mary-le-Bow ; and 
from the last named date to October, 1892, by the Rev. 
James Macarthur, formerly curate of St. Mary, Redcliff, 
Bristol, and rector of Lamplugh, Cumberland, and now 
withdrawing on his acceptance of the vicarage of All 
Saints, South Acton. Attached to the church are flourish- 
ing day schools for 744 children. There are also Sunday 
schools and numerous agencies for promoting the welfare 
of the juvenile and adult parishioners. 

ST. STEPHEN, ROCHESTER ROW. 

A few hundred paces along the south and east sides of 
Vincent-square bring us to the vicarage and schools of 
St. Stephen, which district was formed by an Order in 
Council gazetted on 28th May, 1847. Turning into 



.SV. Stephe?i, Rochester Roia. 22" 

Rochester-row, and embracing the magnificent church in 
the view, we see in the whole, a block of buildings presenting 
an imposing contrast to that we have just left. When it is 
mentioned that the whole was built and endowed by 
the Baroness Burdett-Coutts (then Miss Angela Burdctt- 
Coutts), it is unnecessary to say that everything is as perfect 
as human effort and pious munificence can make it. 

" They dreamt not of a perishable home 
Who thus could build. Be mine in hours of fear 
Or grovelling thought, to seek a refuge here." 

Wordsworth. 

The original outlay upon the site, buildings, furniture, 
and endowments, part of which was provided by the 
Ecclesiastical Commissioners, is stated by Mr. Walcott, in 
the second edition of his Memorials, to have been ;^70,ooo; 
it is now brought nearly to ;^90,ooo. An elaborate des- 
scription of the church was published in the St. Step/ioi's, 
Westminster, Historical Notes, and in the Parish Magazine 
of November, 1890, to which we are indebted for the 
following particulars and dimensions, all the measurements 
being internal : — 

The church consists of a nave, seventy-nine feet by twenty-si.x feet 
six inches wide, having north aisle eleven feet eight inches wide, and a 
south aisle thirteen feet wide, the difference in width being caused by 
the configuration of the site, scarcely noticeable in execution. The 
north porch, next to Rochester Row, is of fine proportions eleven feet 
three inches wide, by twelve feet long, and is placed in the second bay 
from the west. There is also a west doorway to the nave. The 
chancel arch is of majestic proportions consisting of triplet shafts 
having capitals handsomely carved. The chancel is unusually long 
(forty seven feet) in proportion to its width, or in fact as chancels go, 
as it is twenty feet six inches wide. There is a south chancel aisle 
thirteen feet wide by fifteen feet long, divided from the chancel by an 
archway filled in with a rich traceried and crenellated oak perforated 
screen. On the north side of the chancel is a somewhat similar arch 
and screen opening out into the tower, the ground story of which is 
devoted principally to the organ. Here is an unusually wide, thick, 
and handsomely panelled arch. Another noteworthy feature in the 
structure is the great buttress on the west side of the tower necessarily 
from its situation piojecting into the north nave aisle. Instead of 
being an eyesore and obstruction it is made an attractive object by the 



228 T]ie Ecclesiastical Divisions. 

skilful manner in which its face is delicately panelled. Moreover, 
through it is continued the approach to the pulpit. This is also according 
to the mediieval spirit, i.e., the conquering of constructional difficulties 
instead of shirking them. Thus much for the ground plan of 
St. Stephen's. 

The materials used are, for the general walling, Bargate rag-stone, 
from Godalming, and for the quoins and dressings externally, Morpeth 
(Northumberland) Sandstone. Caen stone is used for this purpose in 
the interior. The whole of the woodwork internally is oak, i.e., roofs, 
benches, choir-seats, doors, &c., and also the screens on the north and 
south sides of the chancel, dividing off respectively the tower and the 
south chancel aisle. Externally, all the roofs are covered with lead of 
more than the usual weight, still happily in an excellent state of 
preservation. The walls internally are rough stuccoed and decorated 
in colour. The passages of the nave and aisles are paved with plain 
six-inch black and red tiles ; but in the chancel Minton's tiles, of a 
more ornamental description and pattern, have been employed. In 
order to enrich and emphasize the risers of the steps in the chancel, 
lacquered brass perforated texts have been fixed to them. 

There are five bays to the nave arcade, the pillars of which are of 
handsomely moulded form with carved capitals, greatly varied, the 
pier on the north side next the pulpit being particularly noticeable, as 
it is made a feature by having twelve sculptured heads, portraits 
representing noteworthy personages connected with or interested in 
the church at the time it was built. This carving was executed by the 
late Mr. G. Peter White, of Vauxhall-bridge-road, who afterwards 
carried out extensive works of restoration as contractor at Wells, 
Rochester and Salisbury Cathedrals. The capitals are much varied, 
with carvings of birds, flowers, and many varieties of leafage. There 
is a lofty clerestory to the nave, with two-light windows, the windows 
to the aisles being tliree-light, with elegant tracery. The roof to the 
nave is open timbered, the principal trusses having collars and arched 
braces carried on moulded stone shafts. The aisle roofs also have 
principals with arched braces, the spandrils of which are filled in with 
ornamental tracery. West of the chancel arch is placed a handsome 
oak faldstool. The brass eagle lectern was presented to the church 
at Easter, 1888, by the penny subscriptions of the St. Stephen's Guild. 
There are seven steps up to the Altar. The clergy vestry is on ihe 
ground story of the tower, behind the organ. The seats to the body 
of the church are handsomely moulded and panelled, and have 
square ends, with miniature buttresses. In the chancel there are 
sixteen stalls, with handsome bookboard, having richly traceried fronts, 
the westernmost stall on the south side being advanced a little more 
as a clergy reading desk. The font is of Caen stone, octagonal in 
plan, with sculptured lambs at each angle of the base. It is of very 
handsome design with sculptured panels containing the following 
subjects : — The Circumcision ; Baptism of Our Lord ; Our Lord 
blessing little children ; and the Resurrection, The remaining four 



Architectural features of St. Stephen's cliurcli. 229 

panels are occupied by shields bearing emblems of the Passion. The 
pulpit is also of Caen stone, oblong in plan at the base set at an angle 
of forty-five degrees, and with a three-sided corbelled front, richly 
panelled and carved with angels' heads. The sedilia arc three in 
number, with rich stone canopies against the wall ; they are lined with 
richly embroidered velvet. 

There is a very elaborate mural memorial of Mr. Brown, containing 
sculptured subjects all executed in alabaster. This is placed on the 
north wall of the north aisle, just to the east of the north doorway. 
On the opposite side, on the south aisle wall, is a bust of the first 
vicar, the Rev. William Tennant, carried on a handsome carved stone 
corbel. There are also some memorial brasses on the walls. Hand- 
some lacquered brass brackets, in character with the architecture of 
the church, carry curtains to the north and west doorways. The 
principal doorways to the west and south of the church are treated 
more ornamentally internally than is usual in parish churches, having 
shafts and moulded stone arches. The hinges and door furniture are 
also very rich and elaborate, all, of course, executed in wrought iron. 
The painted glass is principally by Wailes, of Newcastle, except where 
there are the diapered quarries invented by Powell, of Whitefriars. 

The tower, standing on the north side of the chancel, is thirteen feet 
(internally) and seventy-six feet high from the ground level to the top 
of the parapet. At the angles are semi-octagonal turrets having bold 
projecting buttresses, with crocketed gablets at each set-off, four in 
number, the turrets terminating with octagonal pinnacles above the 
parapet, having cusped gablets, and ornamented with carving and 
crochets at the angles. In the turiet at the north-west angle is the 
staircase leading to the belfry and other stages of the tower. On each 
side at the parapet level is a richly-carved niche, carried on moulded 
stone shafts, containing the figure of a saint. At the belfry stage are 
two two-light windows on each side, deeply moulded and filled in with 
louvres. . . . The octagonal spire rises 102 feet from the top of 
the parapets to the top of the capping, and has three tiers of spire- 
lights arranged on four sides, and the angles of the spire are finished 
with a bold roll moulding. The cap stone is surmounted with orna- 
mental ironwork and weather vane. All the external walls of the 
church and porch are finished on top with stone parapets, that to the 
nave having a carved string under it. The chancel parapets are 
pierced, forming rich flowing cusped tracery, the strings under being 
enriched with the ball-flower ornament. The buttresses are all enriched 
at the set-offs and terminations with crocketed and cusped gablets, and 
those at the east end of the chancel are carried up to form richly- 
panelled pinnacles, and finished with crocketed gablets and carved 
finials. 

The buttresses to the north porch are also enriched with cusped 
panels, and in the gable is a moulded niche containing the figure of 
the patron Saint. The north and west doorways have very richly 
moulded arches and jambs with carved capitals, and the labels of the 
doors and windows have various carved heads at their terminations. 

P 



230 Tlie Ecclesiastical Divisions. 

On the south side of the chancel a new Choir Vestry and Parish 
Room has been erected, twenty-five feet three inches long and eighteen 
feet wide, and a corridor formed between the external wall of south 
chancel aisle and the adjoining Townshend School buildings, giving 
communication between the new structure and the Church, the 
entrance being under a new moulded archway immediately west of the 
chancel aisle. The corridor windows are glazed with white cathedral 
glass set in lead of ornamental patterns. The entrance doors are of 
oak, hung on ornamental strap hinges. 

During the erection of the new Choir Vestry, &c., extensive cleaning 
and repairs were carried out in the Church from the drawings, and 
under the superintendence of Mr. B. Edmund Kerrey, F.S.A., of 15, 
Spring Gardens, S.W., son of the late Benjamin Ferrey, F.S.A., the 
Architect of the Church, Vicarage, and Schools. 

In connection with this restoration the warming apparatus 
was renewed, the electric Hght installed, and, at a cost of 
;^655, a new organ, by Gern, built. 

The church records, some of which were reprinted in 
the Historical Notes above referred to, contain the following 
account of the ceremony of laying the foundation stone, 
which took place on St. Margaret's Day, 20th July, 1847 : — 
" At two o'clock the procession entered the enclosure, preceded by 
the officials bearing their silver staves. Amongst those present were : 
— Miss Angela Burdett-Coutts (who was accompanied by Lady King, 
Lady Antrobus, Miss Burdett, and Mrs. Ramsden), The Lord Bishop 
of London, The Lord Bishop of O.vford, Earl Brownlow, Lord Sandon, 
M.P., Lord Ashley, The Very Rev. Dr. Buckland, Dean of Westmins- 
ter, The Ven. John Sinclair, M.A., Archdeacon of Middlesex, The 
Rev. Lord John Thynne, M.A., Canon of Westminster, The Ven. 
Archdeacon Bentinck, Foster Owen, Esq., High Constable of West- 
minster, The Right Rev. Dr. Short, Bishop of Adelaide, South Aus- 
tralia (the new See endowed by Miss Coutis), The Lord Bishop of 
Tasmania, Sir Frederick Trench, Colonel Stuart, The Rev. Edward 
Repton, M.A., Canon of Westminster, and a large number of clergy. 
The general arrangements were under the superintendence of the 
High Constable. A large number of persons assembled, and the walls 
and housetops commanding a view of the ceremony were fringed with 
spectators. 

" The appointed office was read by The Bishop of London, and 
three of the Canons of the Abbey Church of Westminster. 

" The bottle of coins and the inscription plate being placed within 
the stone. Miss Coutts spread the mortar with an elegant trowel ; the 
stone was then lowered from the tramway, and it being adjusted the 
Foundress said : — 

" ' We place this foundation stone in faith and hope to the glory of 
God, through Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen.' 



'■^Church, steeple, bells, and all" 231 

" Miss Coutts then slightly struck the stone thrice with the mallet." 

A Hymn was ne.\t sung by children of the Grey Coat, (jrccn Coat, 
Blue Coat, and Emery Hill's Schools. 

A Psalm and three other Prayers and Collects were then read, and 
the Bishop of London addressed the assembly and pronounced the 
Blessing ; after which " God save the Queen " was sung, and the con- 
gregation dispersed ; three cheers being given as they retired from the 
platform. 

The church, we should add, has seats for from 850 to 900 persons ; 
and on the day of consecration there were nearly 1,500 present. 

The schools, which accommodate nearly 1,000 children, are of ex- 
tremely picturesque design, and their gabled roof and moulded chim- 
nies add much to the appearance and character of the building. 

The weights, notes, and inscriptions on St. Stephen's bells are as 
follows : — 



Tenor D 24 





18 


" Unto our God for ever and 
ever. Amen. Halleluiah." 


7th E 18 





10 


" Might." 


6th F 14 





2 


" Power." 


Sharp 








5th G II 


3 





" Honour." 


4th A 9 





13 


" Thanksgiving," 


3rd B 8 


4 


2 


" Wisdom." 


2nd C 7 


I 


18 


" Glory." 


Sharp 








Treble D 6 


2 


22 


" Blessing." 


Total weight : 


5 


tons 2 qrs. i lb. 



An octave in the key of D. 

Mears, London.— MDCCCL. 

The Persian silk curtain which hang's over the pulpit was presented 
to the Church by the great Duke of Wellington. It was taken from 
the tent of Tippoo Sahib, at the storming of Seringapatam. It is 
tapestry work of the i6th century. 

The Vicarage has been held by the following : — 
1849 — 1879. Rev. William Tennant (deceased). 

1880 — 1889. Ven. William Macdonald Sinclair, Archdeacon of Lon- 
don, and Canon of St. Paul's. 
1889. Rev. William Henry Grea\es Twining. 

By an Order in Council on the 4th April, 1856, all future 
burials in the church are prohibited, with the exception of 
the noble foundress and Mrs. Brown, one of her ladyship's 
many personal friends, the widow of a gentleman who had 
been laid in a vault at the date of the Order. 

Connected with the church are the Townshend Schools, 
besides the National Schools already mentioned, which 

V 2 



232 TJie Ecclesiastical Divisions. 

maintain the high position they have long held among the 
schools in the Westminster Division. There are also some 
thirty agencies for ameliorating the condition of the people 
in the midst of whom the church is placed, and the 
majority of whom are described as " day labourers, cab- 
drivers, cab-washers, washerwomen and charwomen, slop- 
workers, and the like." 

ST. MATTHEW, GREAT PETER STREET. 
A very short walk eastward from Rochester-row brings 
us to one of the very poorest districts of the metropolis — 
worse even than the locality which Dickens described as 
" the dingiest collection of shabby buildings ever squeezed 
together in a rank corner as a club for Tom cats " — a 
district of which Cardinal Wiseman spoke as " slums " — 
and such a district as the late lamented Poet Laureate 
delineated in his Maud forty years ago : — 

Peace sitting under her olive, and slurring the days gone by. 

When the poor are hovell'd and hustled together, each sex, 
like swine, ^ 

When only the ledger lives, and when only not all men lie ; 

Peace in her vineyard — yes 1 — but a company forges the wine. 
And the vitriol madness flushes up in the ruflran's head. 

Till the filthy by-lane rings to the yell of the trampled wife ; 
And chalk and alum and plaster are sold to the poor for bread,* 

And the spirit of murder works m the very means of life ; 
And sleep must lie down arm'd, for the villanous centre-bits 

Grind on the wakeful ear in the hush of the moonless nights, 
While another is cheating the sick of a few last gasps as he sits, 

To pestle a poison'd poison behind his crimson lights. 

The author of Ragged London, ^vi^oYx'^&di in 1862, after 
relating his experiences on visiting many of the dirty and 
repulsive dwellings occupied by Irish labourers in the 
vicinity of the gas works, declared them to be all brightness 
and purity when compared with other places near. " Enter," 
he says, " a narrow street called St. Ann's-lane, glance at a 
fearful side-place called St. Ann's-court, and wonder if ever 
such filth and squalor can be exceeded. The court had 
* The AcUiUeratjon of Food Acts were not passed at this time, 



Light dawns in a dark place. 233 

every feature of a sewer, and a long puddle of filth soaked 
in a hollow centre. The passages of the low black huts 
on either side were like old sooty chimneys. As I turned 
round to leave the place, I caught a glimpse of several 
rough, long-haired heads peeping round the edges of the 
entrance." 

Accompanying the same author into an adjoining 
street — let us remember he wrote more than thirty years 
ago — he remarks that " many of the houses have no floor- 
ing in their passages, and there is nothing for the barefooted 
children to stand upon but the black, damp, uneven earth. 
A child, dirty and nearly naked, was hanging out of one of 
the old-fashioned casement windows ; and in the summer 
time it is no unusual thing to see about fifty coarse women 
exhibiting themselves in the same manner." Our author 
summarises his reference to the moral and social degradation 
of the locality by declaring that, " of all the criminal districts 
in London, it is now the worst." 

" Here was no pavement, no inviting shop, 
To give us shelter when compelled to stop ; 
But plashy puddles stood along the way. 
Filled by the rain of one tempestuous day, 
And these so closely to the buildings run. 
That you must ford them, for you could not shun ; 
Though here and there convenient bricks were laid. 
And door-side heaps afforded dubious aid." 

Ckahise. 

In the very midst of this district stands a church, so 
irregular in its ground plan, and so hemmed in with houses, 
as to indicate the distortions it had to undergo in its struggle 
to obtain admission into the territory of gloom. Although 
the freehold of the site was given by the Dean and Chapter, 
possession had to be acquired piecemeal, as opportunity 
offered for the purchase of the leases of the miserable 
houses. The absence of compulsory powers of purchase, 
and the unwillingness of some of the lessees to sell, rendered 
it impossible to obtain a site which would afford space for 
the schools, and at the same time admit of a reasonable 



2 34 ^'^^^ Ecclesiastical Divisions. 

frontage for the church. Consequently the church is in a 
great measure concealed from the passer-by, the principal 
views being from narrow openings on Great Peter-street 
and St. Ann's-lane. 

" No more — the time 
Is conscious of her want ; through England's bounds, 
In rival haste, the wished-for temples rise 1 
I hear their Sabbath bells' harmonious chime 
Float on the breeze — the heavenliest of all sounds." 

Wordsworth. 

The foundation stone was laid on Thursday, 8th November, 
1849, in the presence of many of the clergy and nobility 
and of a great crowd of spectators. The proceedings com- 
menced with a special service in the parish church of St. 
John the Evangelist, at which the sermon was preached by 
the Bishop of London. A procession was then formed 
consisting of the Bishop of London, Lord Robert Grosvenor, 
M.P., the High Bailiff of Westminster, the Dean of St. 
Paul's, Canons Frere. Wordsworth, and Repton, Archdeacon 
Bentinck, Rev. John Jennings, Rev. L. Mackenzie, the Rev. 
V. K. Child, Rev. S. P. Davies, Rev. A. Borradaile, Rev. W. 
Tennant, Rev. W. Jephson, Rev. R. Hooper, Rev. H. James. 
Rev. W. H. Davies, Rev. C. W. Page, Rev. H. Wilson, Rev. 
W. Cope, Rev. W. Harden, Rev. J. L. Wigglesworth, Rev. 
E. Edwards, and the churchwardens and other officers of 
the^ united parishes. The Bishop of London read the 
prayers and psalms, and the Rev. A. Borradaile the portion 
of scripture, the singing of the Old Hundredth being led by 
the children from the school in Old Pye-street. The stone 
was laid by Lord Robert Grosvenor. 

The church, which is in the early decorated style, was 
designed by the late Sir Gilbert Scott for the accommoda- 
tion of twelve hundred * worshippers, and cost between 
^12,000 and i!"i 3,000, vv'hich-was raised by subscriptions 
through the efforts of Archdeacon Jennings and his assis- 

* The number of seats has since been reduced by nearly three hundred, Ijy 
the removal of the gallery from the south aisle. 



St. A/aU/iezv, Great Peter-street. 235 

tant clergy, aided by grants from the Dean and Chapter 
and the Incorporated Church Building Society. The tower 
and spire have not been completed. The chancel is lighted 
by a bold east window of fiv^e lights, and by three windows 
on the .south and one on the north side, the remainder of 
that side being occupied by the chancel aisle and vestry. 
The nave, with its aisles, consists of five bays or arches, and 
is chiefly lighted from the clerestory and from a large west 
window which is above the surrounding houses. The nave 
and chancel occupying the whole available area of that part 
of the site lying east and west, but not affording the re- 
quired accommodation, a third aisle is constructed into the 
southern arm of the ground, so that the nave has one aisle 
on the north and two on the south. The principal entrance 
is on the south side, through the unfinished tower ; there 
are also doors on the west side and on the north-east in St. 
Ann's-lane. 

A carved oak screen, presented by Mr. William Gibbs, 
who was a liberal donor to the funds for the church and its 
various agencies, divides the second south porch from the 
nave, by which means the aisle is made serviceable as a 
chapel. All the chancel windows, with those in the east 
end and the south aisle, were ornamented with coloured 
glass during the incumbency of the first vicar, and another 
in the north aisle, representing St. Agnes and St. Elizabeth 
of Hungary, was added in memory of Miss Mcngens during 
the incumbency of Rev. W. H. Turle, by whom the lectern 
was given in memory of his mother. 

The second window in the north aisle was the gift of the 
relatives of Dr. Nathanael Rogers, who died in 1868; the 
east window was presented by the family of the late Mr, 
Waterfield, of Dean's-yard, and a few other donors ; those 
in the chancel are due to the generosity of Capt. Dighton, 
Mrs. Waterfield, Mr. Pearse, and Mr. Carter Wood. The 
' arcading ' in the chancel was a tribute to the memory of 
Capt. Dibdin Dighton, who died in 1882 ; and there is a 



236 TJic Ecclesiastical Division^. 

tablet to the memory of Mr. Thomas Freeman, who died on 
lOth January, 1865. 

In close contiguity to the church are well attended 
national schools, a convenient Mission room in constant 
use for a variety of parochial purposes, and a commodious 
clergy house and parish hall recently erected at a cost 
exceeding ^1,000, raised by donations through the untiring 
exertions of the present vicar. 

The living, which was for many years a perpetual 
curacy, has been held by : — 

1851-66. The Rev. Richard Malone, of Queen's College, Cam- 
bridge, where he graduated M.A. 1849. He had previously 
held curacies at Bexhill, Sussex (1846-7), St. Michael, Pinilico 
(1849), ^"d the perpetual curacy of Christ Church, Plymouth 
(1849-50). Mr. Malone, on leaving St. Matthew's, became 
vicar of St. Paul, Cornwall (1866-76), and of Potton, Beds 
(1876-87). He now resides at Penzance, and is a licensed 
preacher in the diocese of Truro. 

1866-84. The Rev. Willam Honey Turk, of New College, O.xford, 
eldest son of James Turle, organist of Westminster Abbey. 
He graduated B.A. in 185 1, M.A., 1855, and was ordained 
priest by the Bishop of London in the same year. He had 
previously held a curacy at the parish church of St. John the 
Evangelist (1854-66), and is now vicar of Horsell, near 
Woking. 

1884. The Rev. William Bouverie Trevelyan, the present vicar, 
who graduated M.A. in 1879, and was formerly curate of St. 
Giles, Reading (1877-79), and Calverton, Bucks (1879-81). 
Mr. Trevelyan was vice-principal of Ely College from 1881 
to 1884. 

To the self-sacrificing labours of these faithful ministers 
and their colleagues is mainly due the amelioration of the 
condition of the parish, which, according to the last published 
return, contains nearly 8,000 souls. True, there is much 
yet to be done ; much to call for the active sympathy of 
all thoughtful people with the patient endeavours of the 
clergy — there are few parishes in which it is not so ; but 
we do not hear, nowadays, of organised attempts to prevent 
the services in the . church from proceeding, or of such 
depravity as existed at the time the church was founded. 



^ase ingratitude. 237 

During the cholera epidemic of 1848, a medical gentleman 
was called to visit a sufferer in one of the streets on which 
the church now abuts. While stooping over the poor 
creature to administer medicine, with which he was pro- 
vided in readiness, his coat pockets were emptied of their 
contents by the dying woman's husband ! At the first 
services in the new church, the inhabitants of the courts 
mustered in force to interrupt the worship by the beating 
of empty barrels, the breaking of the windows, and other 
disorderly conduct. They also stole stack-pipes, iron 
gratings, and such other things as could be removed, while 
the scripture reader was assaulted and nearly killed. We 
are not surprised, therefore, that the Rev. Richard Malone 
records that the condition of the parish when he com- 
menced his ministry in 1851 was "very sad" — such as to 
remind us of Milton's comprehensive lines — 

" Where peace 
And rest can never dwell, hope never comes, 
That comes to all." 

Now, to say the least, such depredation and violence 
have ceased, and the clergy are received with civility, which 
is extended to those who, as lay helpers, co-operate with 
them. Many are the causes to which so welcome a change 
is attributable. Mr. Malone wrote in November, 1891, " In 
Old Pye-street, Duck-lane, St. Ann's-street, and the adjacent 
courts, numbers of street beggars and thieves lodged. A 
class of blind beggars was opened numbering over 60: they 
were taught to read, and many afterwards attended the 
church services. An industrial school was opened for the 
street boys, who were taught to make paper bags and to set 
up type ; and many were placed in good situations. A re- 
fuge for thieves was also opened in Great Smith-street, and 
nearly a hundred of these men, in process of regeneration, 
were induced to attend the .services of the church." Social 
meetings were organised by a band of ladies for the en- 
tertainment of the poor in the winter evenings ; an infant 



238 Tlie Ecclesiastical DivisiotiS. 

nursery was established with great success ; scripture 
readers, mission women, and a nurse to attend the sick 
poor at their homes were engaged ; a cookery class was set 
on foot for the double purpose of instructing girls and young 
women in cooking and for supplying the sick and the very 
poor with properly cooked food, and besides the schools at- 
tached to the church, there were no less than five ragged 
schools in the parish. Clubs, penny-banks, bible classes, and 
mothers' meetings were among the other movements set on 
foot, in addition to which Mrs. Buckland, the wife of the 
then Dean of Westminster, took a leading part in the es- 
tablishment of a reading and refreshment room in Old 
Pye-street for working-men, to which Her Majesty the Queen 
contributed ^^^50 as a token of her approval and sympathy. 

A provident loan society also conferred much benefit 
upon its members by advancing them, under proper regula- 
tions, small sums of money to purchase barrows, or to 
renew their "stock-in-trade" after illness or other misfortune. 
Mr. Malone concludes his remarkable list of benevolent 
agencies by observing, as an illustration of the extreme 
poverty of some of the people, that " many of the bereaved 
mothers were unable to clothe themselves in any kind of 
mourning to attend the funerals of their relatives or 
children. We provided suits of mourning to lend to such 
poor people, and scarcely any other help was received with 
more gratitude." 

In 1863-4 model dwellings for nearly 600 persons were 
erected in Old Pye-street by Mr. W\ Gibbs, who also con- 
tributed upwards of ;^200 per annum towards the engage- 
ment of an additional curate and a mission-woman. In 
1877-8 a large area was cleared of its unhealthy dwellings 
under an improvement scheme carried out by the Metro- 
politan Board of Works, and two large blocks of dwellings 
for the industrial classes have since been erected thereon by 
the Trustees of the Peabody Fund, These changes, with a 
systematic supervision of the lodging houses by the police, 



ArcliJeacon 13 ent tuck's munificence. i^g 

and a more diligent enforcement of sanitary laws in recent 
years, have combined, with the untiring efforts of the clergy 
and their lay helpers — for nearly all the parts of the 
parochial machinery, with slight alterations in detail and 
in name, continue in active operation — to raise the parish 
to a condition which bears a favourable comparison with 
what it was when the church was consecrated in July, 185 1. 

HOLY TRINITY, BESSBOROUCiH GARDENS. 
At the termination of the ceremony of laying the founda- 
tion stone of St. Matthew's Church, the procession re-formed 
and directed its steps towards the south-east end of Vauxhall 
bridge-road, where, to meet the wants of the new district 
then rapidly developing, a site for a new church in Bcss- 
borough-gardens had been given by Mr. Thomas Cubitt, 
M.P., the ground landlord of the estate. 

" Be this the chosen site ; — the virgin sod. 
Moistened from age to age by dewy eve, 
Shall disappear — and grateful earth receive 
The corner-stone from hands that build to God." 

WoRDSWdRTH, 

Arrived at the site, a similar ceremony was performed to 
that which the assembly had shared in two hours previously, 
except that in this instance the stone was " well and truly 
laid " by Mrs. Bentinck, the wife of Archdeacon Bentinck, 
by whose munificence the cost of the building, amounting 
to ;^ 1 7,000, was defrayed. In the course of his address, 
Dr. Blomfield declared it to be the only instance within his 
experience in which the foundation stones of two churches 
had been laid in one civil parish on the same da}'. The 
Latin inscription on the stone may be translated as follows: — 

" The first stone of this Church, intended to be erected at the sole 
expense of the Rev. W. H. Bentinck, M.A., Archdeacon and Preben- 
dary of Westminster, was laid on the i8th November, 1849, by Mrs. 
Frances Elizabeth Bentinck ; C. J. Blomfield, D.D., being at the time 
Bishop of the Diocese, the Rev. John Jennings, M.A., Rector of St. 
John's, and the Rev. A. Borradaile, M.A., I'crpctual Curate of the 
District." 



i!46 Tlie Ecclesiastical Division^. 

The church was consecrated in 1852, at which time it was 
looked upon as one of the best specimens of the EngHsh 
gothic of the early decorated style then in vogue. It was 
one of the first of the many ecclesiastical structures which 
we owe to our great living architect, Mr. J. L. Pearson, 
R.A. In plan it is cruciform, and consists of a nave and 
aisles, transepts, with tower and spire at the crossing nearly 
200 feet high, supported at the four corners by massive and 
well-proportioned clustered columns, a chancel slightly 
wider than the nave, small chapel on the south side, in 
which is a fine window of four lights representing the 
principal miracles of our Lord, and vestry and organ 
chamber on the north. The nave is lighted by a clerestory 
and a large and richly traceried west window. It is divided 
into five bays by pillars of varying plan, either circular, 
octagonal, or clustered shafts. The north and south porches 
are near the west end of the aisles, and are barrel vaulted 
in stone. The remainder of the church, with the excep- 
tion of the lantern under the tower, has open timbered 
roofs, those of the nave, chancel, and transepts having 
curved principles and hammer beams. 

The tower is open internally to a height of fifty-five feet, 
and forms a lantern, which is groined over in stone, and 
the effect of the light shining through the coloured windows 
of this lantern is very beautiful. The altar is raised six 
steps above the level of the nave, and is placed on a foot- 
pace. 

The east window, architecturally a very noble one, con- 
tains seven lights, with geometrical tracery above ; the 
centre light represents the Crucifixion, with the raising and 
descent from the Cross on either side ; next to these the 
Resurrection and the Ascension, with the charge to St. 
Peter and the ' Touch me not ' on the extreme left and 
right. This coloured glass was given by the congregation 
in 1 87 1 in memory of the incumbency of the Rev. Dr. 
Cosens. 



Holy Trinity^ Vauxhall bridge-road. 241 

There are some good carved oak stalls in the chancel, 
which is paved with encaustic tiles. 

The organ, which was built in 1852, is by Walker. The 
fine tower contains a frame for six bells, but only one, 
about \2 cwt, in G, has been placed in it, the founders 
being Messrs. John Taylor & Co., of Loughborough. 

The vicarage has been held by the following : — 

1 852- 1864. The Rev. C. F. Secretan of Wadham College, Oxford ; 
B.A. 1842, M.A. 1847. (Deceased.) 

1 864- 1 870. The Rev. WilHam Reyner Cosens, D.D., of Hertford 
College, Oxford. He graduated M.A. in 1855, and B.D. and 
D.D. in 1872. He had previously held the curacies of 
Warminster, Wilts (1853); Laverstock, Wilts (1854); the 
rectory of St. Andrew, Chichester, 1855-57; he was secretary 
to the Additional Curates Society, 1857-65 ; and is now vicar 
of Dudley. 

1870. The present vicar is the Rev. George Miller, M.A., of 
Trinity Hall, Cambridge, where he took his B.A. degree in 
1862, and M.A. in 1866. He was curate of the mother 
Church from 1865 to 1870. 

The patronage of the living, which originally vested in 
Archdeacon Bentinck, who partially endowed it, was 
transferred to the Dean and Chapter of Westminster by an 
Order in Council, dated 25th November, 1863. 

The parish, which contained a population of 7071 accord- 
ing to the last published returns, has excellent national 
schools for 634 children situated in the Vauxhall bridge- 
road, where also a larger number attend the Sunday Schools. 
In the same road, at the corner of Roehampton-street is a 
clergy-hou.se, and a parish room capable of seating upwards 
of 100 persons. The parochial organisation includes the Guild 
of the Holy Trinity for those who assist in the parish work ; 
the Guild of St. Andrew, for lads and youths, to which is 
attached a gymnasium and recreation rooms ; the Guild of 
St. Mary, for girls ; a Church Burial Guild ; a branch of the 
Church Temperance Guild, and a club room for the choir, 
which numbers upwards of sixty members ; besides a soup 



242 The Ecclesiastical Divisions. 

kitchen, a children's dinner fund and many other charities 
for the benefit of the sick and poor whose requirements are 
unceasingly studied. 

ST. JAMES-THE-LESS, UPPER GARDEN STREET. 

Immediately adjoining the district we have just left is 
that of St. James-the-Less, the most recently formed 
ecclesiastical division in 'our parish,' and another monument 
of the individual munificence to which the poorer part of 
Westminster is indebted for its extension of church work. 
The church and schools were erected on a site given by the 
Dean and Chapter of Westminster at the sole cost of the 
Misses Monk, as a memorial to their father who, before his 
consecration as Bishop of Gloucester, had been many years 
a canon of Westminster. 

The style of architecture adopted for the church by the 
late Mr. George Edmund Street was Lombardic Venetian.* 
with a campanile tower, and attract-^^^ much attention for 
some time after the opening of the church as being one of 
his most successful works. 

The church, which affords seating accommodation for 
600 persons, consists of a nave and chancel, with north and 
south aisles to both. It has a detached steeple, forming an 
ante-porch, with porch connecting it with the north aisle. 
The height of the tower and slated porch is 134 feet. The 
materials used are mainly red and black bricks, stone, and 
marble. The apse has windows of three lights, with a rose- 
window in the head, filled with stained glass, representing 
types and anti-types of Christ. Between these descend the 
groining-ribs, to rest upon banded shafts of polished marble. 
The reredos below the line of lights is of white stone inlaid 
(with a black composition) with figures of holy women, 
commencing on the left with Mary the mother of James, 
then Mary Magdalene, St. Elizabeth, and the Virgin Mary ; 
then, on the other side of the reredos proper, come the wife 

* Mr. Timbs classifies the style as Byzantine Gothic, 



Interior of St, James-tJie-Less. 243 

of Manoah, Hannah, Ruth, and Sarah. Bands of red and 
yellow tiles are inserted between these figures, which are 
represented in niches, dividing them into twos. 

Immediately over the altar is a cross of vari-coloured 
Irish marbles, set with studs of Derbyshire spar. Within 
the apse come the transept aisles ; in that on the left is the 
organ. Two drop arches, on broad shafts of polished 
granite, with carved caps, and resting on tall plinths (the 
height of the choir seats), divide these transept aisles from 
the choir. Each transept aisle is, in itself, divided by a 
shaft of Bath stone in its centre, whence spring arches to 
the side piers of the choir. The two shafts which are on 
each side of the nave are of polished red granite, with bands 
of Bath stone midway of their heights ; the caps are carved, 
illustrative of the parables and miracles. Over the chancel 
arch is a fresco painted by G. F. Watts, representing a 
sitting figure of Our Lord in the centre, with groups of 
angels on each side, and the four Evangelists below, on a 
gold ground. The pulpit is of stone and marble, and is 
very richly sculptured by Earp ; it contains figures of the 
four Doctors of the Western Church and the four Evange- 
lists, and on the panels, which are divided from each other by 
shafts of green marble, are illustrations of preaching : — 
I. St. John the Baptist, preaching; 2. Dispute with the 
Doctors ; 3. The Sermon on the Mount ; 4. St. Augustine 
of Canterbury, preaching. The chancel gates are of wrought 
iron and ornamental brasswork. The pavement of the 
body of the church is formed of Maw's tiles, and that of the 
chancel has marble inserted. The steps leading to the 
chancel and altar are of black Isle of Man limestone. The 
roof has been painted by Clayton and Bell, with the Tree 
of Jesse and the Genealogy of Our Lord, typical busts of 
the personages being introduced in medallio is along the 
sides of the span in a line on either hand. The stained 
glass throughout is also by Clayton and Bell. 

The two windows in the nave and that in the apse were 



244 ^^^^ Ecclesiastical Divisions. 

the gift of the late Mrs. Monk ; nine of those in the aisles 
were presented by the late Sir H. A. Hunt, the remaining 
seven in the aisles were the result of the collections made 
by the Penny Association connected with the church, and 
that in the south-east end was provided by Mrs. Tucker, in 
memory of her husband, the late Mr. F. J. Tucker, for many 
years one of the churchwardens. There is a tablet in the 
south wall to the memory of Bishop Monk. The splendid 
alabaster font and its brass surroundings, together with the 
handsome brass lectern, were contributed by the congrega- 
tion, the lectern in record of the unceasing liberality of the 
Misses Monk to the church and the parish during more 
than thirty years. These ladies have recently added to 
the schools they erected in 1865 for 500 children, a new 
infants' school, a parish room and a choir vestry. 

For its endowment the living is indebted to the Dean 
and Chapter of Westminster and the Ecclesiastical Com- 
missioners. 

The district was formed by an Order in Council dated 
26th April, 1862, for the relief of that of St. Mary the Vir- 
gin, Tothill-fields, and occupies the area lying between the 
west side of the Vauxhall bridge-road and the east side of 
Tachbrook-street, with Churton-street on the north, and 
Moreton-street on the south. The residents are, with the 
exception of a few tradesmen, almost entirely of the work- 
ing classes and the very poor. In the interests of the latter 
numerous provident societies and clubs have been established 
and maintained by the unwearying liberality and personal 
assistance of many of the congregation who reside beyond 
the limits of the parish ; a crccJie, for the care of infants 
while their mothers are at work, has been open for more 
than twenty-five years, and similar religious and charitable 
agencies to those existing in the parishes already described 
are zealously conducted for the welfare of the inhabitants. 

The first vicar was the Rev. George David William 
Dickson, of Exeter College, Oxford, where he graduated 



TJic Roman Catholic Church. 245 

M.A. in 1849. He was formerly curate of St. Michael, 
Chester-square, and having held the living of St James-thc- 
Less from 1861 to 1889, left it to take the vicarage of King's 
Somborne with Little Somborne, and the rectory of Upper 
Eldon, Hants. According to Crockford for 1892 the last- 
named parish has a population of six persons. 

The present vicar is the Rev. William Lowery Blackley, 
of Trinity College, Dublin; B.A., 1851 ; M.A., 1854; 
F.S.S., 1885 ; hon. canon of Winchester, 1884. Canon 
Blackley was formerly curate of St. Peter, Southwark 
(1854), curate of Frensham, Surrey (1854-67), rector of 
North Waltham, Hants (1867-83), rector of Upper (1885-9), 
and vicar of King's with Lower Somborne, Hants (1883-9). 
Canon Blackley is author of T/ic Fritliiof Saga, or Lay of 
Fi'ithiof, from the SivcdisJi of Esaias Tegner, 1857; TJic 
Practical German Dictioiiary, Longmans, 1866 ; TJie Cri- 
tical English (New) Testament, 3 vols., Strahan, 1866-7 ; 
and Word Gossip, Longmans, 1869. 

Retracing our steps preparatory to commencing a cursory 
glance at some of the streets in the parish we need only 
pause to notice 

ST. M.\KV'S ROMAN CWTHOLIC CHURCH. 

This small and unpretentious building in Horseferry-road 
was erected in 18 13, mainly through the efforts of the Rev. 
W. Hurst, the learned Professor of Theolog}' at Valladolid, 
and translator of the writings of the Venerable Bede. It 
was enlarged and beautified in 1852, and is now served by 
the Fathers of the Jesuit Order. The sculpture over the 
alter represents the Annunciation of our Lad)', and is said 
to possess great artistic merit. The sculptor was Phj-ffers. 

P"rom the Reformation down to 1792 there was no recog- 
nised place of worship for those of the Roman Catholic 
faith in Westminster. In that year a small chapel was 
opened in York-street ; but the services were discontinued 
from want of funds in 1798. In 1802 the chaplains of the 



^4^ Nonconformist places of worship. 

Neapolitan Embassy inaugurated services in Great Smith- 
street, which, however, only continued three years. A 
temporary chapel was next opened in Dartmouth-street, 
where the congregation continued to assemble until the 
present church was opened. 

At the corner of Vincent-square and Rochester-row, on 
the site now occupied by a part of St. Stephen's Schools, 
was a temporary iron building in 1846-8, which was used 
as a place of worship by the " Irvingites," whose services 
are now conducted in the Catholic Apostolic Church in 
that part of Orchard-street which is in St. Margaret's 
parish. 

The other places of worship which present themselves to 
our view are the Wesleyan Chapel in Horseferry-road, 
facing Regency-street, noticed in connection with the 
Wesleyan Training College in chapter XV., and the 
Romney-street Baptist Chapel founded in 1805. 




^^ Relic of 7iobler days and ttoblest arts.^^ 247 



Chapter IX. 



TOTHILL FIELDS. 



Lo I must tell a tale of chivalry ; 

For large white plumes are dancing in mine eyt 

Not like the formal crest of latter days : 

But bending in a thousand graceful ways ; 



Lo I must tell a tale of chivalry ; 

For while I muse, the lance points slantingly 

Athwart the morning air .... 

Ah I shall I ever tell its cruelty, 

When the fire flashes from a warrior's eye, 

And his tremendous hand is grasping it. 

And his dark brow for very wrath is knit V 

Or when his spirit with more calm intent, 

Leaps to the honours of a tournament, 

And makes the ga?ers round about the ring 

Stare at the grandeur of the balancing." 

Keats. 

' I can repeople with the past — and of 
The present there is still for eye and thought, 
And meditation chasten'd down, enough ; 
Atid iiiofc, it viay be, than I hoped or sought." 

KVKON. 



Ancient appearance and topography. — Legendary history. — Etymo- 
logical. — The Hill. — Soil and Produce. — Tournaments and Justs.^ 
Wagers of battle" and judicial combats. — Wyatt's Rebellion. — The 
Fairs. — Sanctuar)', its evil results. — The Cock-pils. — Bull and Hear 
baiting. — Well's Bear-garden. — Supposed race-course. — "Up Fields." 
— Two worthies, Baldwin and Hebberfield. — "Counsellor Bickerton, 
Esci." — William Colhns, the artist. 



'T^O the mind's 'eye of the Revd. Mr. Ridgway, West- 
minster (together with much of what is now called 
London) presented the appearance more than twelve 
hundred years ago, of a long range of rising ground, covered 
with a vast forest : — 

"And eek the names that the trees highte- - 
As ok, firre, birch, aspe, alder, holm, popeler, 
W)lugh, elm, plane, assh, box, chasteyn, lynde, laurer, 
Mapul, thorn, liech, hasel, ew, whippletre." 

Cm.\lckic. 

2 



248 Tothill-fields. 

" filled with wild deer, wild boars, and wild bulls, more like 
the backwoods of Canada, or the bush of Australia, than 
any scenery now existing in Britain."* Between the spots 
now marked by the bridges of Westminster and Vauxhall, 
and further west towards Chelsea, lay a wide wilderness of 
country, stretching northwards in a gentle slope towards 
the hills of Hampstead. Land and water intermingled next 
the river in marsh and morass, which extended over the 
whole of the locality known to-day as Pimlico and Belgravia. 
The region known to us as Bessborough-gardens barely 
emerged from the spreading river, but was given up " for a 
possession for the bittern, and pools of water " where the 
solitary heron, the royal swan, and the morose bustard 
found a congenial haunt, and the ruff and reeve, the wild 
duck and water-rail lived fearless among the reeds and rushes 
of the marshes. On the eastern side, where the Abbey 
stands, appeared Thorney Island (or Thorn Ey, the Isle of 
Thorns), surrounded by fen and thicket, and affording in 
the thorny jungle a refuge for the wild ox and the huge red 
deer with tower" ng antlers, that strayed into it from the 
neighbouring hills.f 

The wild nature of the spot may be inferred from the 
fact of the first Benedictine monks having chosen it as a 
site for their little colony, affording as it did security for 
themselves, and abundance of fish for their refectory. The 
charter of Offa describes it as "in loco terribili, quod dicitur 
ast Westmunster," and Fitzstephen speaks of the river as 
" fluvius maximus, piscosiisl' —swaxmxw^ with fish. 

Behind the marshy swamp which fringed the river along 
Millbank, lay Bulinga Fen, from which, in course of time, 
the water gradually drained away, and left a tract of 
peaty soil, afterwards known as Tothill-fields. The 

* The Gem of Thorney Island. 

t Dean Stanley's Memorials. The bones of such an ox were discovered 
under the foundations of the Victoria Tower, and hones and antlers of the elk 
and red-deer in making the metropolitan railway under the Broad Sanctuary, 



Etymological. 249 

derivation of this name has given occasion for much 
ingenious speculation among antiquarians, but the con- 
sensus of evidence would attribute it to a hill or beacon 
forming the highest point of the fields.* Mr. Timbs, in 
his Curiosities of London^ mentions that the name 
occurs in an ancient lease as Toot-hill or Beacon Field, 
which Mr. Hudson Turner suggested to Mr. Cunningham 
as the probable origin. Norden, the topographer of West- 
minster in the time of Elizabeth, speaks of " Tootehill- 
street, lying on the west part of this citie, taketh name of a 
hill near it, in the great feyld near the street." In Rocque's 
map (1746), a hill is .shown in Tothill-fields, just at the 
bend in that ancient causeway, the Horseferry-road. 
Hollar's etching also shows it. Mr. Edwin Lees, in Hone's 
Year Book, states that the Toot-hills, which are found 
scattered all over the country, were consecrated to the 
Celtic deity Tentates, and this druidical worship is con- 
nected by antiquarians with that of Tuisto by the Germans, 
as observed by Tacitus, and even with the Egyptian 
TJiotJi. Mr. Thoms relates that good Dean Turtonf once 
told the founder of Notes and Queries " how pleased he was 
when made Dean of Westminster, to find himself connected 
with one of our old Toot Hills. It would have gladdened 
the heart of Jacob Grimm to have heard that kindly .scholar 
discourse about the ancient Thenth or Thoth, to whom the 
invention of letters was formerly ascribed." § 

* As analogy has a value of its own, it may be mentioned that there is a 
parish named Tothill in Lincolnshire, in the Marsh division of the hvmdred of 
Calceworth, which is also considered to take its name from a round hill in the 
parish called Toote-hill. (See Cordon's and Lewis's Topograp. Dictionaries.) 
"The name of 7'c/ is the old British word 7'int (the German Tiilsio), god of 
wayfarers and merchants— the third day of the week is still called after him. 
Sacred stones were set up on heights, hence called Tot-hills. ' To toot' in the 
north of England was a common phrase to express the observation of a watch- 
man set upon a high station looking over a lower country." — Timl/s Loudon 
and Wcstininstcr. 

t Thomas Turton, Uean 1842-5 ; Bishop of Ely ; published Text of the 
English Bible considered, Ss'c ; died 1864. 

§ See Notes and Queries, June 16, 1877. 



250 Tothill-fields. 

Another derivation of the word was put forward by the 
late Mr. Bardwell, who, being aware of the fact that the 
Normans called the district tout le dianip, fancied that it 
might have been clipped into tout le, and then corrupted 
into toutle and Tot-Jiill. This latter theory, in view 
of what has been previously said, must be regarded as 
somewhat far-fetched ; but it affords the opportunity of 
leaving the question for matters of less dubiety. 

It is strange to suppose that the Druids held their 
solemn rites and 'mystical ceremony' amidst the solitary 
wilds of Bulinga Fen, while 

■ • • ■ ■ " Ever overhead 
Billow'd the tempest, and the rotten branch 
Snapt in the rushing of the nver-rahi 
Above them." 

Tennyson. 

or that the deity of Tuesday was here worshipped by their 
Saxon invaders and conquerors. When the traditions are 
remembered that King Sebert (a.D. 616) pulled down a 
temple of Apollo on the site of the Abbey to make room 
for St. Augustine's monks ; that King Lucius (a.D. 183) 
first founded a chapel here to St. Peter ; * and that that 
Apostle himself, crossing the river near the site of the old 
horse ferry ,-f- built a chapel or oratory here — it will becon- 
ceded that Tothill-fields are not by any means devoid of 
a traditionary history of their own.ij: 



* Ridgway, Gem of Thoi-uey Island ; Stanley's Alcniorials. 

t See chapter XI. 

+ A writer in Notes and Queries asks " Whether there exists any well 
authenticated evidence of the discovery of Roman remains in Westminster ? I 
say ' well authenticated,' for I have had in my possession for many years some 
Roman coins said to have been found towards the lieginning of the present 
century in King-street, and I saw not very long since a fragment of Roman 
statuary said to have been dug up in Marsham-street." A^. cr Q., 4th Series, 
Vol. v., March 5, '70. A Roman sarcophagus was found in Novr., 1869, in 
the Green under the north wall of the Abbey. It can be seen at the entrance 
to the Chapter House, left hand side. It was the tomb, as its inscription 
shows, of a Roman named Valerius Amandinus Marcellus, siiperventoi- e( 
viarceUiis patri. 



The hill. 251 

So much for the legends. Of the hill itself there is no 
longer any trace. Walcott thinks that it may have become 
lost in the gradual accumulation of soil upon the adjacent 
ground, and others suppose that the process of making-up 
the level which is always going on where there is a growing 
population, accounts for its disappearance. Dean Stanley 
states that it was levelled in the seventeenth centur)\ This 
explanation, so far as it goes, is plausible enough, for, as 
will be seen as our sketch proceeds, the locality was resorted 
to for its graved to so serious an extent that it led to a 
complaint being made to the Dean and Chapter, and to steps 
being taken to prevent it. liut the hill certainly existed so 
lately as 1804, for we find that the Vestry of the parish* 
in that year, applied for, and obtained consent of the Dean 
and Ciiapter " to screen the rubbish on the hill in Tothill 
Fields," to be conveyed to the burial-ground in the 
Horseferry-road for raising the surface. The hill, which 
could not have been more than a mound, might have been 
removed in this way, and ma}- therefore be said never to 
have left the parish. 

The soil of the higher part of Tothill-fields was of a 
gravelly description, admirably adapted for the holding of 
justs and tourneys and judicial combats. Walcott describes 
the sub-soil as consisting " of a clear bright loam, lying 
beneath a rich mould, which extends to about a foot in 
depth, with short fine herbage, which was for centuries 
grazed on by numerous cattle." And there is ample 
evidence to show that the fields responded very kindly to 
the cares of patient husbandr}'. The Benedictine monks 
did not choose the site of the Abbey without some reason 
in this respect. The names of OrcJiard-<XxQ.QX^ Pear-i^treet, 
and ^ 7;^t'-strcet, are reminiscent of the cultivation of fruit 
in Westminster. 

At the time of the Norman Conquest new plantations of 
vineyards would appear to have been made in West- 

* Vestry minutes, 28th February, 1804. 



252 fothill-fields. 

minster ; * although it must not be forgotten that the vine 
was cultivated in England long prior to the Battle of 
Senlac. Vines are mentioned in the laws of Alfred ; and 
Edward the Confessor, who bestowed so much care on his 
beloved Abbey, may well have anticipated the Norman. 

Often did the Thames overflow the fields ; in the reign 
of Edward I. they ^^■ere deeply under water. Undoubtedly 
the 'country-side' stretching along from the Abbey precincts 
to the Neat-houses and the Five Fields must have been 
very pleasant. Both Tothill-fields and the Five Fields 
had a repute for wild flowers. Watercress was gathered 
by the neighbours in the little streamlets or ' ditches ' that 
traversed them. The herbalists and naturalists of olden 
time here collected their plants and herbs, either growing in 
the open meadows or along the banks of the river and ditches. 
The cuckoo-flower, Shakespeare's " lady's-smock," was once 
abundant by the water's side, and around the ' Duck ' and 
other watery places grew the marsh-mallow, the moisture- 
loving spurge, the crimson-flowered willow herb, and many 
another wild plant — 

" The yellow cowslip and the pale primrose." 

Milton. 

were easily to be found— 

" Young playmates of the rose and daffodil. 

With fennel green and balm . . . 

Savory, latter-mint, and columbines 

Cool parsley, basil sweet and sunny thyme ; " 

Keats. 

and very probably there flourished on the more heathy parts 
the hardy gorse and broom — the plaiita gencsta — whose 
golden glory was the badge of the knightly Plantagenets. 
In the time of the old herbalist, Culpeper,-f- these fields 
were famous for parsley. Strype speaks of the fields as 
noted " for supplying London and Westminster with as- 
paragus, artichokes, cauliflowers, and musk melons, and the 



* Timb's Nooks and Corners. 
t Author of Coinplcat Herbalist and Physical Bireclory, 1649. 



Haymaking. 253 

like useful things that the earth produces." In Howell's 
time, too, (1629) these fields were famous for melons. " I 
have sent you herewith," he writes to Sir Arthur Ingram, "a 
hamper of melons, the best I could find in any of Tothill- 
fields gardens.* 

In the churchwardens' accounts for 1651 we read : " Re- 
ceived of Bartholomew Bonyon for the grasse of the yard 
belonging to the pest-houses from Midsomer, 165 1, to 
Michaelmas following xxs," and other evidence is afforded 
by these accounts that there was much excellent pasture 
in the fields in good seasons. 

Here then, despite the sinister presence of the Pest- 
houses, the hay harvest was gathered in by the villagers, the 
tired mothers resting perchance at times to watch 

" Infant hands 
Trail the long rake, or with the fragrant load 
O'ercharged, amid the kind oppression roll." 

Thomson. 

The open Tothill Fields existed as such with a group of 
lonely cottages standing in their midst till 18 10, when the 
note of preparation for a different state of things was heard 
in the construction of an iron bridge at Vauxhall. 

So lately as 1 750 the farmers in the neighbourhood suf- 
fered much loss (so Walcott tells us) by the cow distemper 
Wallis, a citizen of London, left ;^6,000 for their relief 
Mention has already been made (sec p. 8j of the fact 
that Kldrich's nursery, which supplied the district with 
fruit and flowering shrubs, occupied the site of the present 
gas works. Evelyn notes, in his Diary of June 10, 1658, 
" I went to see ye Medical Garden at Westminster, well 
stored with plants, under Morgan, a very skilful botanist." 
Walcott asserts that snipe have been shot in the fields in 
the present century ; a statement apparently corroborated 
b)' Lord Albemarle in his autobiography. Major Griffiths, 

* EpistoUc Ho'EUan<€y printed 1645-55. 



7'otliill-fields. 




The Smithfield of Western London. 255 

too, states that " people were alive only a few years ago 
who had shot snipe in the bogs and quagmires about this 
spot."* 

A writer in Tlic Builder says that in 1H30 the Vauxhall- 
road was not entirely built upon, and bits of the hedge-row 
were still to be seen. Patches of greensward might as yet 
be observed beneath the litter of old iron which Andrew- 
Mann so liberally spread over any plot of waste ground ; 
whilst the site of the present South Belgravia remained 
open market-garden ground, intersected by bridle paths, 
for some ten years subsequentl}'. The present Warwick- 
street, leading from Westminster towards Chelsea, occupies 
the preci.se site of the " Willow Walk." But all vestige of 
the rural nature of the locality must have disappeared soon 
after this date ; and now, to slightly alter the words of the 
clever authors of Rejected Addresses — 

Totliill Fields are fields no more 

The trowel supersedes the plough, 
And swamps all inundate of yore 

Give place to bricks and mortar now. 

J. Wykeham Archer, the painter and antiquar}-, in his 
Vestiges of Old London (1851) says that these fields 
were within three centuries part of a marshy tract of land 
lying between Millbank and Westminster Abbey, and on 
which stood a few scattered buildings, some of them the re- 
sidence of noble persons. 

Dean Stanley has called these fields " the ' Smithfield ' of 
Western London — which witnessed the burnings of witches, 
tournaments, judicial combats, fairs, bear-gardens, and the 
interment of those who had been stricken by the plague." 
In one of its streams the ducks disported themselves, which 
gave their name to Duck Lane, now swept away b}- 
Victoria-street. Another formed part of the boundary be- 
tween the parishes of St. Margaret and St. John, and a 
third, which had become known in 1826 as " the Tothill 

* Memorials of Millbank, 1884, p. 23. 



256 Tothill-fields. 

Fields open sewer," marked the limits on the south-western 
side of the area under the jurisdiction of the Tothill Fields 
Trust. A shaggy pool, deep enough to drown a horse, has 
gradually dwindled away into a small puddle and a vast 
sewer, now called the Kings Scholars' Pond and the Kings 
Scholars' Pond Sewer." 

Perhaps the earliest mention of the locality occurs in 
Fabyan, who describes it in 1238 as " a fielde by Westmyn- 
ster, lying at ye west end of ye church." " On account," 
says Walcott, " of its dry soil and size, wagers of battle 
were often decided here, and combats specially granted by 
princes, as well as those proceeding by ordinary award in 
law." These characteristics of the ground would naturally 
have made it 

" A favourite spot for Tournament and War." 

WoRDSWOKTH. 

and for the holding of those Homeric contests of our fore- 
fathers — 

" When ancient chivalry displayed 
The pomp of her heroic games 
And crested chiefs and tissued dames, 
Assembled at the clarion's call." 

Wharton. 

But it must not be forgotten that " the triumphant joust- 
ings and other military exercises," to which old Stow and 
other chroniclers make such frequent allusion, usually took 
place in the royal tilt-yard in Whitehall * ; and it may be 
safely assumed that the outlying field of Tothill was only 
resorted to on occasions of more than ordinary grandeur. 
-Hence we read that at the coronation (1220) of Eleanora 
— la Belle of Provence — consort of Henry HI., the extra- 
ordinary magnificence of the rejoicings with which the 
beautiful queen was received, included " royal solemnities 

* Now the parade ground of the Royal Horse Guards. 



'■'' Pageants and siglits of /lonour." 257 

and goodly joustes " kept up for eight da}'.s in Tothill- 
fields. * 

" From early the rising of the sonne, 
Till spent the day was and yronne 
In justing, dancing, and lustinesse. 
And all that sowncde t to gcntilnesse.' 

Chaucer. 

The Rev. Mr. Ridgway states that on this occasion the 
worthy citizens, " in honest practical zeal, to do honour to 
their new queen, set about, in good earnest, the Herculean 
task of cleansing their streets from the mud and offensive filth 
which rendered them almost impassable." " Truly a strange 
sight must the wild marshy field have been, with the coarse 
turf spread with bright yellow sand ; the stout barriers, the 
galleries hung with silken canopies, awnings intermingled 
with green boughs and fragrant garlands, stooping down 
to shade the groups of fair maidens clustered beneath ; the 
steel-clad challengers seated firm as rocks upon their 
neighing steeds, awaiting the herald's blast and the shock 
in the glittering list ; the wavy plumes, the broidered 
mantle, the token-scarf, the parti-coloured tabard, brilliant 
as a flowery garden." It may well be supposed that during 
so honourable a week, and with such a Queen of Love and 
Beauty looking on, the hearts of Henry's young knights 
beat high at those solemn moments when — 

" The heralds left their pricking up and down, 
Now ringen trumpets loud and clarion. 
There is no more to say but east and west, 
In go the speares sadly in the rest. 
In goth the sharp spur into the side. 
There see men who can just and who can ride ; 
There shiver shaftes upon shicldes thick, 
He feeleth through the heart-spone the prick ; 
Up springen speares, twenty feet in height. 
Out go the swordes as the silver bright ; 
The helms they to hewn and to shred : 
Out burst the blood with stern streames red." 

Chaucer. 



See Mr. J. II. Jesse's London, 1871, Vol. I., p. 1S2, 
t = Bclons^ed. 



258 Tothill-fields. ^A 

Bright and gay, too, were these fields forty years later 
in the same reign, on the feast of the Decollation of St. i 
John, when Stow tell us — " In the year of Christ, 1256, the ^ 
fortieth of Henry III. John Mansell,* the king's coun- 
cillor and priest, did invite to a stately dinner the kings and 
queens of England and Scotland, Edward, the king's son, 
earls, barons, and knights, the Bishop of London, and 
divers citizens, whereby his guests did grow to such a num- 
ber that his house at Totehill could not receive them, but 
that he was forced to set up tents and pavilions to receive 
his guests, whereof there was such a multitude that seven 
hundred messes of meat did not serve for the first dinner." 

Tothill was the name of the manor in Westminster, pos- 
sessed by this John Mansell. 

Such were the scenes that Tothill Fields witnessed nearly 
seven hundred years ago, when Westminster was adorned 
with the palaces of princes and nobles, and glittered with 
the gorgeous pastimes of knighthood ; when the friar in 
sober cowl walked the uneven pavement, and the knights 
rode with trumpets in gaudy colours to their tournaments 
in Whitehall or Smithfield or Tothill. 

Where throngs of knights and barons bold 
In weeds of peace high triumph hold. 
With store of ladies, whose bright eyes 
Rain influence and judge the prize. 

Milton. 

Tenipora nintantiir, nos et mutaniur in illis. The dingy 
streets and courts of modern Westminster have displaced 
these brilliant scenes ; and where now rises " the busy hum 
of men " — ihefin/iinii et opes, strepitjinique RomcE — once re- 
sounded the stirring cries of ' Brave lance ! Good sword ! ' 
and the herald's exhortations to ' Fight on, brave knights ! ' 
' Man dies, but glory lives ! Fight on — death is better than 

* "John Mansell, King's councillor and chaplain, monk of the Abbey, 
chancellor of St. Paul's, and prior of Beverley." IVa/colt, 



" Order the trial, uiarshal, and begin." 259 

' defeat ! Fight on, brave knights ! — for bright eyes behold 
your deeds ! ' 

" But, now, for ever 

Farewell the plumed troop, and the bij^- wars 
That make ambition virtue I O farewell ! 
Farewell the neighing steed and the shrill trump, 
The spirit-stirring drum, th' ear piercing fife. 
The royal banner and all quality, 
Pride, pomp, and circumstance of glorious war I" 

Othello. 

The proximity of these fields to the king's law courts 
would naturally explain their use for carrying out the judge's 
sentences, and for the settlement of trials by battle or by 
ordeal issuing out of the courts. Walcott informs us that 
necromancers were punished here and their instruments 
destroyed ; as in the reign of Edward III., when a man was 
taken " practising with a dead man's head, and brought to 
the bar at the King's Bench, where, after abjuration of his 
art, his trinkets were taken from him, carried to Tothill, and 
burned before his face." So in the time of Richard I., 
Raulf Wigtofte, chaplain to Geoffery, Archbishop of York, 
" had provided a girdle and ring cunningly intoxicated, 
wherewith he meant to have destroyed Simon (the Dean of 
York) and others ; but his messenger was intercepted, and his 
girdle and ring burned at this place before the people." 

In 1441 "was taken Margarie Gourdemaine, a witch of 
Eye, beside Westminster, whose sorcerie and witchcraft 
Dame Eleanor Cobham had long time used, and by her 
medicines and drinkes inforced the Duke of Gloucester to 
love hir, and after to wed hir ; wherefore, and for cause 
of relapse, the same witch was brent in Smithficld on 
the 27th October." 

This Margery Jourdain is introduced in Shakespeare's 
play of King Henry VI., part ii., sc. iv., where the ambi- 
tious duchess assists amid thunders and lightnings at the 
exorcism of a prophetic spirit — 

Bolingbrokc — Mother Jourdaine, be you prostrate and gro\cl 

on the earth : — 
John Southwell, read you ; and let us to our work.'' 



26o lothill-fidds. 

The poor lady had her punishment too : — 

" Ah ! Gloucester, teach me to forget myself ! 
For, whilst I think I am thy married wife, 
And thou a prince, protector of this land, 
Methinks I should not thus be led along, 
Mail'd up in shame, with papers on my back, 
And followed with a rabble, that rejoice 
To see my tears, and hear my deepset groans. 
The ruthless flint doth cut my tender feet ; 
And when I start the envious people laugh. 
And bid me be advised how I tread." 

Hume, in his History of England makes an interesting 
view of the criminal law amongst the Saxons, of which trial 
by ordeal was the principal feature.* Trial by battle was 
an introduction of the Normans, some say of William the 
Conqueror himself It was employed when issue was joined 
in a writ of right. The above-named historian, speaking of 
the law reforms of Henry H., states that that monarch 
" though sensible of the great absurdity attending the trial 
by duel or battle, did not venture to abolish it ; he only 
admitted either of the parties to challenge a trial by an 
assize of jury of twelve freeholders. This latter method of 
trial seems to have been very ancient in England and was 
fixed by the laws of King Alfred ; but the barbarous and 
violent genius of the age, had of late given more credit to 
the trial by battle, which had become the general method 
of deciding all important controversies. It was never 
abolished by law in England ; and there is an instance of it 
so late as the reign of Elizabeth." -j- The most important 
provision, perhaps, of Magna Charta was that no free man 
should be imprisoned, outlawed, punished, or molested, 
except by the judgment of his equals or by the law of the 
land, i.e., by the decision of a jury, by trial by battle, or by 
ordeal. 

* History of England. Appendix to Vol. I. 
t //'/(^, chap. IX., vol. I, 



" In single combat shalt thou buckle!' 261 

Such barbarous justice, then, was frequently determined 
in Tothill-ficlds: — 

"Also moreover in the same yere (1440-1) was a fightyng at the Tothil 
between too thefes, a pelour and a defendant, and the pelour hadde 
the feid and victory of the defendant withinne thre strokes."* 

The combat would usually take place at sunrise, on a 
piece of ground sixty feet square, enclosed for the purpose, 
and in the presence of the Court of Common Pleas dressed 
in their scarlet robes. The weapons used were staves, with 
targets ; the bodies of the champions were clad in armour, 
but their heads, arms and legs were bare. The battle 
might be continued till the stars appeared. If that was 
done the party in possession of the land was held entitled 
to retain it ; if not, the court pronounced judgment in 
favour of the candidate whose champion was successful.-|- 

Stow also gives a description with all his accustomed 
minuteness, of a challenge of this kind which took place 
in the Fields : — 

"The i8th of June in Trinity Tearme (1571) there was a combat 
appointed to have been fought for a certain Manour and demaine 
lands belonging thereunto in the Isle of Harty, adioying to the Isle of 
Sheppey, in Kent : Simeon Low and John Kyme were Plaintifes, and 
had brought a writ of right against T. Paramore, who offered to defend 
his right by Battel), whereupon the Plaintifes aforesaid, accepted to 
answere his Chalenge, offering likewise to defend their right to the said 
Manour and lands, and to prove by Battell that Paramore had no right 
nor no good title to have the same. Hereupon the said Thos. Paramore 
brought before the Judges of the Comon Pleas at Westminster, one 
George Thorne, a bigge, broad, strong set fellow : and the Plaintifes 
brought Hen. Nailor, Master of Defence, and seruant to the right 
honourable the Earle of Leicester, a proper slender man and not so 
tall as the other. Thorne cast downe a Gauntlet, which Nailor tooke 
up. Upon the Sonday before the battell should be tried, on the next 
morrow, the matter was stayed and the parties agreed, that Paramore 
being in possession, should haue the land, and was bound in 500 pound 
to consider the plaintifes, as upon hearing the Judges should award. 
The Q Maiesty was the taker up of the matter, on this wise. It was 
thought good, that for Paramorc's assurance, the order should be kept 

• A Chronicle of London, loSg to 14S3 — An m.s. of the 15th century, printed 
under the superintendence of Sir Nicholas Harris Nicholas ; 4to, 1827, p. 123. 

t See Comyns, Dig. tit. ' Trial ' ; and Blackstonc's Coinmcntarics. 

K 



262 Tothill- fields. 

touching the combat, and that the plaintifs Lowe and Kyme should 
make default of appearance, but that yet such as were sureties of 
Nailer their champions appearance, should bring him in, and likewise 
those that were sureties for Thorne, should bring in the same Thorne 
in discharge of their bond, and that the Court should sit in Tuthill- 
fields, where was prepared one plot of ground one and twenty yardis 
square, double railed for the combate, without the West square, a stage 
being set up for the Judges, representing the Court of the Common 
Pleas. All the compasse without the Lists, was set with scaffolds one 
aboue another, for people to stand and behold. There were behind 
the square where the Judges sate, two tents, the one for Nailor, the 
other for Thorne. Thorne was there in the morning timely. Nailor 
about seuen of the clocke came thi-ough London, apparelled in a 
doubtlet and gally-gascoigne breeches, all of crimson sattin cut 
and raised, a hat of black veluet, with a red feather and band, 
before him Drums and Fifes playing : the Gauntlet that was 
caste downe by George Thorne, was borne before the said 
Nailor upon a sword's point, and his Baston (a stafife of an 
ell long made taper-wise, tipt with h.orn) with his shield of hard 
leather, was borne after him, by Askam a yeoman of the Queen's 
gard : he came into the Pallace of Westminster, and staying not long 
before the Hall doore, came back into the King's streete, and so along 
through the Sanctuary and Tythill streete, into the field, where he 
stayed till past nine of the clocke, and then Sir Jerome Bowes brought 
him to his tent, Thorne being in the tent with Sir Henry Cheiney long- 
before. About ten of the clocke, the Court of Common Pleas remoued 
and came to the place prepared : when the Lord Chief Justice with two 
other his associates were set, when Low was called solemnly to come in, 
else hee to lose his writ of right. Then after a certaine time the 
sureties of Henry Nailor were called to bring in the said Nailor, 
champion for Simon Low, and shortly thereupon Sir Jerome Bowes 
leading Nailor by the hand, entreth with him the Lists, bringing him 
downe that square by which hee entred, being on the left hand of the 
Judges, and so about till hee came to the next square iust against the 
Judges, and there making a curtesie, first with one leg, and then with 
^ other, passed forth till he came to the middle of the place, and then 
made the like obeysance, and so passing till they came to the barrel 
there hee made the like curtesie, and his shield was held up aloft over 
' his head : Nailor put off his neather stockes, and so bare-footc and 
bare-legged, saue his silke scamlonians to the ancles, and his dublet 
sleeues tyed up aboue the elbow, and bare headed, came in as is afore- 
said ; then were the sureties of George Thorne, called to bring in the 
same Thorne, and immediately Sir Henry Cheiney entring at the 
upper end on the right hand of the Judges, used the like order in 
comming about by his side, as Nailor had before on that other side, 
and so comming to the barre with like obeysance, held up his shield, 
proclamation was made in form as followeth : The Justices commenced 
in the Queenes Maicsties name that no person of what estate, degree 



The gauntlet, surrendered. 263 

or condition he be, being present, to be so hardy to give any token or 
signe, by countenance, speech or language, cither to the proouer or to 
defender, whereby the one may take advantage of the other : and no 
person remooue, but still keepe his place : and that euery person and 
persons keepe their staves and their weapons to themselves : and 
suffer neither the said proouer nor defender to take any of their 
weapons or any other thing, that may stand either to the said proouer 
or defender any auail, upon pain of forfeiture of lands, tenements, 
goods, chattels and imprisonment of their bodies, and making fine and 
ransome at the Queene's pleasure. Then was the proouer to be 
sworne in forme as folio weth : This heare you Justices, that I have 
this day neither eate, drunke, nor have upon me either bone, stone, 
nor glasse, or any inchantment, sorcerie, or witchcraft, where through 
the power of the Word of God might be inleased or diminished, and 
the deuils power encreased ; and that may appeale is true, so help me 
God and his saints and by this booke. After this solemne order was 
finished, the Lord Chiefe Justice rehearsing the manner of bringing 
the writ of right by Simon Low of the answere made thereunto by 
Paramore, of the proceeding therein, and how Paramore had chalenged 
to defend his right to the land by battell, by his champion George 
Thornc, and of the accepting the triall that was by Low, with his 
champion Henry Nailor, and then for default in appearance in Low, 
he adiudged the land to Paramore, and dismissed the champions;, 
acquitting the sureties of their bonds. He also willed Henry Nailor 
to render againe to George Thorne his gauntlet, whereunto the said 
Nailor answered, that his Lordship might command him anything, but 
willingly he would not render the said gauntlet to Thorne except he 
would win it : and further he challenged the said Thorne to play with 
him halfe a score blowes, to shew some pastime to the Lord Chiefe 
Justice, and the others there assembled : but Thorne answered, that 
he came to fight, and would not play. Then the Lord Chiefe Justice 
commending Nailor for his valiant courage, commanded them both 
quietly to depart the field." 

All such proceeding.s a.s these were abolished by 59 Geo. 
III., cap. 46, as were also appeals in criminal cases by the 
same enactment. 

In connection with the insurrection in 1554 of Sir Thomas 
Wyatt to prevent the marriage of Queen Mary with Philip 
of Spain, we read in Wriothesley's Chronicle that, " Wyatt 
with his rebells came 'to the park pale' by St. James, about 
2 of the clocke in the afternoone, and Knevett, one of his 
capteynes, with his rebells went by Towtchill, through 
Westminster, and shott at the Cowrt gates." 

The holding of fairs in Tothill-fields owed its origin to 

R 2 



264 - Tothill-fields. 

King Henry III., whose pious zeal for re-building the 
Abbey church induced him to resort to every artifice for 
raising money. After having heavily mulcted by com- 
pulsory loans the Jews and the wealthy London burghers, 
whom he hated — " those rustical Londoners, who call them- 
selves Barons, on account of their wealth."- — he had recourse 
to the establishment, in 1248, of a fair at St. Edward's 
Tide (13th October). It lasted fifteen days, and brought 
abundant funds into the coffers "of the Abbey, for all shops 
were closed and all other fairs prohibited during that fort- 
night ; and every article sold at the fair paid a tax to the 
abbot. Sturdy Raphael Holinshead chronicles that in the 
year 1248 "the King caused a faire to be kept at West- 
minster at Saint Edward's tide, to indure for fifteen dales, 
and to the end that the same should be the more haunted 
with all manner of people, he commanded by proclamation, 
that all other faires, as Elie, and such like holden in that 
season, should not be kept, nor that any wares should be 
shewed within the citie of London, cither in shop or with- 
out, but that such as would sell, should come for that time 
unto Westminster ; which was doone not without great 
trouble and paines to the citizens, which had not roomc 
there, but in booths and tents, to their great disquieting and 
disease, for want of necessarie provision, being turmoiled 
too pitefullie in mire and dirt, through occasion of raine 
that fell in that unseasonable time of the yeare. The bishop 
of Elie complained sore of the wrong done to him by 
suspending his faire at Elie aforesaid." 

Matthew of Westminster, too, evidently did not ap- 
prove of this arbitrary conduct on the part of the king. 
" He did command that proclamation should be made by 
voice of herald through all the City of London, and in other 
parts, that he gave command to celebrate a new fair, to last 
for fifteen days, at the Monastery. All other fairs and all 
merchandise, in-door or out-of-door, under pain of loss and 
confiscation, he straitly forbade, so that the fair of West- 



A fair in foul zv cat her. 265 

minster might be more fully furnished with company and 
wares. . . Ikit when they all set forth their merchandise 
to sell and had no houses but only booths, they were 
grievously annoyed with divers mishaps ; for many storms 
of winds broke in upon them, as is wont at that season ; 
and the merchantmen, shivering with cold, were wetted 
through, hungry and athirst." 

Fox Bourne, in his EnglisJi Merchants^ also bears out that 
the weather experienced was of the very worst possible de- 
scription. He says, " during the whole fortnight, however, 
the weather was bad, so that vast quantities of clothing and 
provisions were left to rot in the tents, through which the 
rain penetrated ; while the dealers themselves had to stay 
all day, waiting for customers who never came, with their 
feet in the mud, and the wind and rain beating against their 
faces"; from all of which it may be inferred that the worthy 
citizens of those days, with their flowing cloaks and long- 
toed boots, found ^' ' 'lister fair by no means convenient ; 
for they '■ .m it with two thousand pounds of 

have been the impecunious 
• Lit.se t. 

St. Edward's fair 4-^4-111- c-4. i\t 

was at nrst held m St. Margaret s 

churchyard until 34 H tti / - nj. 1 -^ j 

■' . ^^ cnry 1 1 1. ( 1 25o),7 when it was removed 

to Tothill-fields ; an , . \. . , , ^ .^^ , 

' d m 1302 the Abbot was permitted 

to levy toll upon all t , , 1 i ..1 • ^ ^1 

•^ '■ raders who sold their wares at the 

time, even within the i • .. r .1 1 + 

'■ )recincts 01 the palace. I 

Henry HI. moreovei . „^ ,. 1 1 • u n i... i. i. 

•' ■, in 1256, granted his J\'ittent to 

the Abbett of Westmi ^ ..... ^ , 

nster, giving him leave to keepe a 

markctt in Tuthill eve tx/t j i r • 

2vy Munday, and a iaire every yere 

for 3 dayes " at the tim c ., t:- .■ , r o. at -mt 
•^ -^ c of the festival of St. Mary Mag- 



' -Iver." 

lere is u. 'cd in tlic Chapter House, yr.nnt- 

the Abbey i .^iward's Day shuuld have the same 

jes as that ot . .c-llill, Winchester. 

X Walcott's Mcmoriiii. 



266 



TotJiill-fidds. 



dalen. Edward I., by another Patent* dated iith May, 
1298, extended the fair to thirty-two days to be held 
every year in Tuthill, but it fell into disuse soon after- 
wards. -f* It is said by Timbs that the Mayor and Corpora- 
tion of London, by a bribe of ^8,000, induced the abbot to 
yield up his privilege. \ On the other hand, another writer 
declares the fair was in existence in 18 19, but died away 
gradually, previously to the general suppression of fairs in 
1840, and states that it was held in Rochester-row, near 
where the Church of St. Stephen now stands. Some 
very curious information concerning the Westminster 
fair, was given in an able article in the Westminster and 
Pinilico Ncivs, of October 20, 1888, by Mr. W. E. H. Oxley. 

Evidence that the fair was flourishing in the early part 
of the present century is given in Lord Lennox's Reminis- 
cences^ wherein he narrates that when he was first at 
Westminster school lie attended ' " the then celebrated 
booths of Scowton, Saunders, P,' ' ^■^on, and Gyngel at 
Tothill-fields fair." 

It will accordingly be cc:. *" 

Westminster, from the earliest li. . 

tunity for purchasing their 

" Rintrs, y^uds, conceits, 
„ ^ ' ^ .^' veetmeats ;" 

Knacks, trities, nosegays, s\ 

or, as Autolycus sang — 

LL -, ^ 1 • 1 • .now ; 

Lawn, as white as driven s 

/-111 ; -™w ; 

Cyprus, black as e er was ci , 

Gloves, as sweet as damas^ ' ' 

Masks, for faces, and for i , ' 

Busle bracelet, neklace ar , ' 

iber ■ 
Perfume for a lady's chan , 

cners 
Golden quoifs, and stoma , ' 
. . clears ■ 

For my lads to give their -_,_,_' 

Pins, and poking stick? ^* 

What maid« ''^'-i-' 



* These two Patents, will. 
Town Hall. 

t Old ShowDicn and Londoit Fairs, T. ^ 
X Timbs' London and Westminster. 



may be se- 



WitJiin the limits of sanctuary. 267 

Perhaps the succession may be traced in the weekly pan- 
demonium in Strutton-ground and the vicinity ; or, better 
still — for fairs were once an institution to which flocked 
high-born dame and servant-maid alike — in the huge 
emporium of the Army and Navy Stores, whose contents 
exceed in multitudinous variety even Autolycus' pack 
itself 

Tothill-fields, before the Statute of Restraints (21 
James I., c. 28), was considered to be — so Walcott states — 
within the limits of the Sanctuary of the Abbey. 

Stow tells us that the Abbey " had great privilege of 
Sanctuary within the precinct thereof .... which 
privilege was first granted by Sebert, king of the East 
Saxons, since extended by Edgar, king of the West 
Saxons, renewed and confirmed by King Edward the Con- 
fessor," whose charter offered to any person flying thither 
for any cause " all maiier freedom of joyous libcrtie ; and 
whosoever presump^gg|-j^'^')th contrary to this my graunt, I 
will hee J^^^^e fain to redee -'^^^P' <^lig"ity, and power, and 
*^^ilver *'— a result that may " J"'''^" ^^^'^^ betrayed our 
king's intent from the c" -^^^'"^' ^''^ of hell." 

. .._ xwiit of Mr. Walcott is correct would 

seem to be somewhat doubtful ; but there can be no manner 
of doubt that these -" unhappy privileges," — to use Dean 
Stanley's apt phrase — had their evil effect upon the 
neighbourhood. " The right of asylum rendered the whole 
precinct a vast 'cave of Adullam' for all the distressed and 
discontented of the metropolis who desired, according to 
the phrase of the time, 'to take Westminster.'" This 
privilege of sanctuary, Widmore* ob.serves, " had caused 
the houses within the district to let well" ; and it moreover 

, ^ „, '" 1-hi'eves and vagabonds, who 

Stow. Walcott omits the words " oi a.. 

. . of this ' City of Refuge,' 

t Th ' "'so a Charter of this date exhibi; 
ing to w up a. -hat the fair held on St. F-' -•'^ P^^'t O' Westminster 
pnvilesic, in coiLscquencc, th'^'fesort of all that was low and 

* R. Widmore, Hist "y of tJH Church of St. Peter. 



268 Tothill-ficlds. 

disreputable. The Fields in the days of James I. were "the 
abode of bull-baiters, ragamuffins, beggars and thieves,"* 
and their bad reputation did not disappear until very 
recently. The statement published in 1850 by " the Lay 
Bishop of Westminster," Sir William Page Wood (after- 
Lord Hatherley) affords striking evidence that the evil 
associations of the sanctuary rights lingered in Westminster 
long after their suppression by King James. , 

The Fields were naturally resorted to by the lower orders for 
their pastimes and amusements, and early in the eighteenth 
century — " England's meanest period," as Lamb has stigma- 
tised it, — was famous for bull-baiting, bear-baiting, cock- 
fighting and cock-throwing, dog-fighting, prize-fighting, and 
such like ' sports ' and diversions so much beloved of our 
gentle forefathers. But we are not surprised at their 
depraved tastes when we remember that the Royal Cock- 
pit stood at the top of Queen-street, Birdcage-walk. The 
steps leading down from opposite Dartmouth-street to the 
park are still known to old residents in Westminster as 
Cockpit Stairs. -|- Evelyn in his Diary of the i6th June, 
1670, writes: — "I went with some friends to y<- Bear-garden, 
where was cock-fighting, dog-fighting, beare and bull- 
baiting, it being a famous day for all these butcherly sports 
or rather barbarous cruelties. The bulls did exceedingly 
well, but the L-ish wolfe-dog exceeded, which was a tall 
greyhound, a stately creature indeed, who beate a cruell 
mastiff. One of the bulls toss'd a dog full into a lady's 



* I'hc Streets of Loudon, by J .T. Smith ; edited by Charles Mackay, LL.D., 
1861, p. 55. 

t Mr. Harland Oxley in The West London Press of May 22, 1886, cites 
Timbs' London and Westminster and Ko/nanee of London, in stating that this 
pit, though only taken down in 1816, had been disused long before, and then 
proceeds to make some very just remarks with regard to that author — " Where 
he got this information from I cannot say, but this we do know that he was one 
of the most laborious and painstaking of recent antiquaries, and verified all his 
information, so that those who follow may not have any very great trouble 
upon this point ; of course his information may have been obtained from A new 
Gtiide to L.ondon." 



Bear-baiting. 269 

lap, as she sate in one of y^ boxes, a considerable height 
from the arena. Two poore dogs were kill'd and so all 
ended with the ape on horseback, and I most heartily- 
weary of the rude and dirty pastime, which I had not 
seen, I think, in twenty years before." Elsewhere the same 
author writes: — 

lyth Aui^usf, i66y. — There was now a very gallant liorse to be 
baited to death with doggs ; but he fought them all, so as the 
fiercest of them could not fasten on him, till they run him 
through with their swords. This wicked and barbarous 
sport deserved to have been punish'd in the cruel contrivers 
to get mony, under pretence that the horse had kill'd a man 
which was false. I would not be persuaded to be a spectator. 

In the reign of Queen Anne (1703) a famous bear-garden 
existed in Tothill-fields upon part of the site of Vincent- 
square, and the newspapers of the period contain some curious 
advertisements of the proprietor's enterprise, of which the 
following is a specimen : — 

" At William Well's Bear Garden in Tuttle Fields, this present 
Monday, the loth of April [1703], will be a green bull baited, and 
twenty doggs fight for a collar, and that dogg that runs farthest and 
fairest wins the collar; with other diversions of bull-baiting and bear- 
baiting. Beginning at two of the clock." 

Notwithstanding the brutishncss of the sport, the spirit 
of " fair-play," which is considered to be so strong a 
characteristic of the iMiglish, is exem[)lified in the couplets of 
Butler on thenext page. " Fair play's a jewel," and even Bruin 
had his " law," for proclamation used to be made at all bull 
and bear baitings by the steward, warning the spectators 
not to come within forty feet of the animal, at their peril. 
That such warning was not without good reason, is aptly 
shown by the following note in the Gentleman's Maga::ine 
of so late a date as 1806 *: — 

Tuesday, May syth, 1S06. — This day at a bear-baiting in Tothill- 
fields, one of the bears, having broke loose, fastened upon a 
person of the name of Shawe, whom he tore very much with 
his paws, and would have destroyed him, but for the assistance 
of the people. 

• Vol. Ixxvi, p. 473. 



270 Tothill-fields. 

The customs observed at these brutal exhibitions did 

not escape the notice of Butler, who thus refers to them in 

his Hudibras: — 

People did repair 
On days of market, or of fair, 
And to crack'd fiddle, and hoarse tabor, 
In merriment did drudge and labour ; 
But now in sport more formidable 
Had raked together village rabble : 
'Twas an old way of recreating, 
Which learned butchers call bear-baiting ; 
A bold advent'rous exercise, 
With Ancient heroes in high prize ; 
For authors do affirm it came 
From Isthmian or Nemean game ; 
Others deri\e it from the bear 
That's fixed in northern hemisphere. 
And round about the pole does make 
A circle, like a bear at stake. 
That at the chain's end wheels about. 
And overturns the rabble rout. 
For, after solemn proclamation^ 
In the bear's name, as is the fashion, 
According to the law of arms, 
To keep men from inglorious harms. 
That none presume to come so near 
As forty feet of stake of bear ; 
If any yet be so fool-hardy, 
T' expose themselves to vain jeopardy, 
If they come wounded off, and lame. 
No honour's got from such a maim, 
Altho' the bear going much, b'ing bound 
In honour to make good his ground. 
When he's engag'd, and take no notice, 
If any press upon him, who 'tis, 
But lets them know, at their own cost. 
That he intends to keep his post. 

A writer in The Builder tells us that down to so recent 
a period as 1819-20, the barbarous sport of bull and bear 
baiting occasionally took place here. There was also a 
cock-pit in Tufton-street (described in chapter XIII.) which 
was perhaps the last of these abominations in London. 

Sir Richard Steele in the Taller, 1 709, says " I have heard 
that there was a race-course here, as well as a building 
Bridewell, and bear-garden." Timbs, in his London and 



'^ BingluTDJis Icapr '' Slender Billy." 271 

Westniinstcr, briefly says " We hear, too, of Tuttle Fields 
horse-races." 

In Tothill-ficlds ' came off' many a ' mill ' — not between 
Westminster scholars as some have supposed ; for their 
encounters, Lord Albemarle tells us, always took place in 
the ' Fighting Green,' in the cloisters — but between profes- 
sional gentlemen of the " P. R.," and sometimes between 
the Westminster boys and " the Scies." 

When Lord Albemarle boarded at " Mother Grant's," the 
Westminsters, as they do now, went "up Fields " to play 
cricket ; but then " Fields " were only separated from the 
rest of the open by a dry ditch. There was, he also relates, 
in the north-west corner, opposite the rear of the present 
police-court, the Duck, afterwards known as the King's 
Scholars'-pond. 

Richard Bingham, who was at the head of those elected to 
Oxford in 1786, and afterwards served under Sir J. Pulteney 
and Sir Ralph Abercromby, was celebrated at school for a 
great jump he made over a ditch in Tothill-fields, afterwards 
called ' Bingham's leap.' At Easter and Whitsuntide, 
Gooseberry fair was held " up Fields." 

Two Westminster worthies who had much to do with the 
'genius of the place,' albeit their repute was not by an\- means 
above reproach, were Caleb Baldwin and William Hebber- 
field, or "Slender Billy," both of the "Five Houses" in 
Tothill-fields. So interesting is the history of the latter, 
that the following extracts, although long, will be pardoned 
by appreciative Westmonastcrians. The first is from Lord 
Albemarle's Fifty Years of my Life* which so delighted 
Mr. W. J. Thoms, the antiquarian, f George Keppel, 
afterwards Earl of Albemarle, who was a school-boy at 
W'estminster School in the years 1810-5, recalls amongst 
his reminiscences : — 

" Between Mother Hubbard's and the Willow W'alk was a nest of 
low buildings known by the name of the ' Seven Chimneys.' The 

* Fifty Years of my Life, by George Thomas, Earl of Albemarle, 1876, 
Vol. I., p. 323. 

t See Notes and Queries, June 16, 1877. 



1*]2 



Tothill-ficlds. 




Betrayed. 273 

inhabitants were of a somewhat questionable character, and certainly 
not of that class with whom ladies would wish their darling boys to 
associate. Here lived Caleb Baldwin, the bull-baiter ; a man who 
enjoyed a widespread fame for one particular feat. Whenever his 
dog was tossed by a bull, Caleb would break its fall by rushing in and 
catching it in his arms. . . . Bull-baiting was an 'institution' in the 
early part of this century. Like prize-fighting, it had its advocates 
among members of both Houses of Parliament. ... Of all the 
indwellers of the ' Seven Chimneys ' the prime favourite of us West- 
minsters was one William Heberfield, better known by the name of 
'Slender Billy' ; a good-humoured, amusing fellow, but whose moral 
character, as the sequel will show, would not bear a searching investi- 
gation. All we knew of him was that whenever we wanted a dog to 
hunt a duck, draw a badger, or pin a bull, Billy was sure to find us one, 
no matter how minute we might be in the description of the animal 
required. 

In the year 181 1 Heberfield was no longer an inmate of the ' Seven 
Chimneys.' He was undergoing his sentence in Newgate for having 
aided the escape of a French General, a prisoner of war on parole. 

It was just at this time that the Bank of England, having suffered 
heavy losses from forgeries, resolved to make an example. William 
Heberfield was fixed upon by them for that example. 

The solicitors of the Bank accordingly took into their pay a 
confederate of Heberfield's of the name of Barry, who was under- 
going two years' imprisonment in Clerkenwell House of Correction, 
for uttering base coin. Through this man's agency, Heberfield, who 
would turn his hand to anything, was easily inveigled into passing 
forged notes provided by the solicitors of the Bank themselves. On 
the evidence of Barry, Heberfield was found guilty and sentenced to 
death. Great exertions were made in the House of Loids to avert the 
execution of the sentence on account of the cruel conspiracy, of which 
the unhappy man had been the victim. All was of no avail. Heber- 
field was hanged at Newgate for forgery on the 12th of January, 1812.'' 

The second extract, which is equally piquant, is abridged 
from The Neivs^ of February 2, 181 2. — 

On Wednesday morning Eihuard Phillips for setting fire 
to his house in Ratcliffe-highway ; IV. Habbcrficld^ alias 
Slender Billy., for selling Bank notes in Newgate, while in 
confinement for aiding French prisoners in their escape ; 
/'. Whitehead., for forgery on the banking-house of Robarts, 
Curtis, and Co. ; and J. Fraser, E. Hall., alias Campbell 
and IV. Hii^i^iiis, alias Fowler, fur burglaries: — were executed 
pursuant to their sentences. The unhappy men seemed 
prepared to meet their fate with decent fortitude. Each 
shook hands with the other next to him ; and they were soon 
after launched out of this world. The crowd which assembled 
to witness this warning spectacle was immense. 



274 TotJiill- fields. 

Of these culprits, none had excited so much public conversation 
as Habdcrsjield, ahas Slender Billy. He had been known on 
the town for many years by half the population, particularly 
in Westminster. From the figure he made in the gymnastic 
circles, and, also, as having been a manager of badger-baitings, 
dog fights, &c., Billy's cabin{a), in the centre of the Willow- 
walk, Tothill-fields, was a menagerie for beasts of almost 
every description, and also a convenient fencitig repository, 
from the Lady's tyke{b) to the Nobleman's wedge (c). Habber- 
field, from the figure he cut in his managerial character, with 
the buffer {d), or badger-ring, was much countenanced by many 
gentlemen in ihe fancy (^),and particularly by the Westminster 
Collegians, who could have a fund of amusement, at all times, 
in the Willow-walk. But Billy's connection amongst robbers 
of every description, exceeded by far the patronage bestowed 
on him by the higher orders in the bull ring. He always 
bore the reputation of a man of strict probity in his nefarious 
dealings, and was considered the safest fence about 
town, as his dwelling was suitable to concealment, and 
garrisoned by buffers., so as to render it impregnable to a 
sudden attack. Billy was himself a workman too, and 
accounted as good a cracksman {f) or pcfcr-vadin (g) as any 
in the ring, and as close as tnid-night. He dealt largely in 
dogs and horses, and several anecdotes are related of his often 
bargaining for the purchase of each, and, on refusal, informing 
the owners that he must haiic tJicin for nothing, if he could 
not buy them, and which promise he repeatedly carried into 
execution. He was a knacker {h) too, and it was a favourite 
expression of his, that he had stolen many a worn-out horse, 
rather out of charity to its carcase than tire value of his flesh. 
He had been known for forty years to the Police, as a cross (i) 
cove, technically termed, but had always escaped until his 
release of General Austin, and other French prisoners, when 
he was imi^eached by his pal, and sentenced to two years' 
imprisonment in Newgate, where he sold forged notes to a 
plant (/'), and which led to his untimely end. He was, as 
before observed, accounted a man of strict punctuality and 
integrity, in kis konesl dealings, and had saved, it is supposed, 
some thousand pounds by his nefarious practices. 

(a) Place where stolen goods are {£') Cutting away of luggage from 

concealed. vehicles, 

(i^) Lap-dog. {/i) A purchaser of worn-out horses. 

(c) Plate. (0 A person who lives by unfair 

(d) A bull-dog. practices. 

{c) Admirers of Ijull-bailing, fight- (/■) A person sent for the purpose of 

ing, &c. detecting him. 

(/) House-breaker. 



Young sportsmen. 275 

It is pretty generally suspected amongst his confidential friends, 
that he was the fence, after the ingenious rcmoiuil, two or 
three years ago, of the plate from the Cathedral of St. Paul's. 
He was likewise suspected of being an extensive gin-spinncriti), 
without the knowledge of the Board of Excise. It was Billy's 
boast, that hfe had not for many years worn a single article of 
dress tliat had not been stolen. He had left a widow and two 
daughters, one of whom is married. 

In his delightful Recreatio7is of a Sportsman, Lord 
William Lennox, another old Westminster boy, observes: — 

It is a fact, and a most melancholy one, that all sports are more or 
less cruel, and many perhaps quite as objectionable in that respect as 
cock-fighting. Yet the practice of putting on artificial spurs, and the 
knowledge that the conquerors seldom are allowed to live to enjoy 
their triumph, make this once popular pastime repugnant to the 
humane feelings of a large mass of the people. Bull-baiting too, 
which in our " salad days," when, as the Queen of Egypt says, " we 
were green in judgment," we well recollect being carried on in Tothill 
Fields, and at many a suburban and country fair, has fallen into disuse, 
and the Society for the Suppression of Cruelty to Animals would soon 
pounce down upon any costermonger who was daring enough to in- 
dulge in this bovine barbarity. Another equally inhuman sport, that 
of bear-baiting, has long ceased to be indulged in ; and the " Pit" in 
Westminster famous, or rather infamous, in bygone days, when " Slen- 
der Billy" reigned supreme in Duck-lane, has ceased to exist ; and 
splendid mansions, capacious hotels, extensive warehouses, handsome 
streets, now occupy the site of the lowest, dirtiest, and most filthy 
alleys, courts, and lanes ; while powered footmen, smart waiters, 
dapper shop boys, and aristocratic dames tenant the district formerly 
the resort of dog-fighters, pigeon-fanciers, housebreakers, pickpockets, 
coiners, horse-chaunters, and the lowest and most degraded of the 
prize-fighting community. 

The author of Westminster School, Past and Present^reiQxs 
to the same writer's description of his first shooting expe- 
dition over Tothill-ficlds: — 

Richard Hubbert, game-keeper and purveyor of guns and ammuni- 
tion to the boys, appears to have been a character compounded of the 
poacher, receiver of stolen goods, and forger. He gave, on this 
occasion, two guns to the two lads, Erskine* and Lennox. These guns 
bore the respective names of " Tearback " and " Scratcher," titles 
certainly calculated, and no doubt intended, to animate the sportsmen 
with confident hopes, but dreadful enough to make both ducks and 
snipe forswear for ever the neighbourhood of Richard Hubbcrt's 
dwelling ; as, indeed, they seem to have done about this time, and to 
have returned no more. Though assured by Hubbert that it was just 

(;/) Distiller. * Afterwards Earl of Mar, 



276 Tothill-fields. 

the morning for snipe, the boys returned without having obtained a 
single shot ; but the day could not end so. Therefore they contracted 
for five shots a-piece at elevenpence a shot, the mark to be the ducks 
on the duck-pond. The killed were to be the property of the shooter. 
Lennox was successful enough to kill three ducks, and what was better, 
to make such a favourable impression on his sporting master, as 
materially to affect his subsequent comfort as a fag. William Hubber- 
field was another hero inhabiting the Willow Walk. . . . The 
man was hanged for having forged notes in his possession, and Mrs. 
Hubberfield, in a few weeks, married the Bow-street Runner who 
captured him. 

The Gentleman's Magazine of the 7th October, 1833, 
records the death, " in a wretched hovel, at a place called 
the Five Chimneys, near the Vaiixhall-bridge-road, aged 
58, Mr. John Bickerton, an eccentric character, formerly 
well known in the University of Oxford." The magazine 
gives a diffusive account of the eccentricities of this poor 
fellow, who usually called himself " Counsellor Bickerton, 
Esq." The son of a Flintshire farmer, he entered St. 
Edmund Hall at Oxford as a commoner in July, 1793, and 
continued there for several terms, but never took a degree. 
Being refused the papers necessary for his entering into 
holy orders, he left the University and wandered about the 
country. He never walked in the streets without an 
umbrella, and always attended at the Oxford Assizes 
wearing a counsellor's wig. 

" At one time he purchased a chariot at an auction, 
removed the pole, and contrived to make it a one-horse 
carriage. He purchased a horse also, and engaged in his 
service a youth well-known in Oxford, who was sent over 
the seas a few years since. Bickerton iitted up his carriage 
with cooking apparatus, and when the judges left Oxford 
he, dressed in his wig and gown, and accompanied by his 
man, followed them on the circuit. But his travelling the 
circuit was soon terminated, for the first time that he 
appeared in a court where he was unknown (it is believed at 
Gloucester), he was taken into custody, and afterwards sent 
from the place. During his journey he regularly cooked 



A Peter Simple. 277 

his victuals on the road side, and slept in his carriage." It 
is also said of him that during a cold winter, Bickerton 
being in want of fuel, contrived to procure it by climbing 
into a tree that was in the quadrangle of Hertford College, 
and having seated himself upon one of the branches, actually 
sawed the branch off between himself and the trunk, in 
consequence of which he fell to the ground and was much 
hurt. When ejected from Hertford, he purchased a small 
boat, and for some time lived upon the Isis. 

At the inquest on his body, one of the witnesses gave 
the following account of his London life : — • 

" Daniel Friend, of Green Hart-yard, Hatton-garden, said that he 
knew the deceased. He was complete master of five or six languages' 
and perfectly conversant with the Hebrew. He formerly kept a school 
in Wych-street, Strand. He bought the Five Chimneys property 
about six years ago, for which he paid 380/. He had also one or two 
houses in Edward-street. A Mr. Dance, a broker, lived in one of 
them. Some time ago the deceased seized upon Mr. Dance for rent, 
who replevied, and threw the deceased into Whitecross-street prison. 
Witness saw the deceased last Friday. He was then knocking up 
some old tin saucepans, and picking the wire out to sell for old iron. 
He went out with the wire, and brought home a salt herring and a 
pound of potatoes. He also bought a bottle containing some vitriol 
and water, which he took for his complaint. He always complained 
of being ill-used by Mr. Dance." 

On that part of this testimony which relates to 
Bickerton's imputed skill in languages, the Oxford Herald 
remarked that : — 

"Although once a member of this University, he had very little 
knowledge of the Greek and Latin languages, was totally ignorant of 
Hebrew, and knew no modern language whatever except his. own." 

The hovel in which Bickerton died was an unfinished 
building. It comprised three rooms, but had no windows 
nor doors, and the lower room was still unfloored and scat- 
tered with broken bricks and mortar. Besides a chair which 
had been lent by a neighbour towards his last moments, 
there was no furniture. " The only articles found in the 
place " sa}'s a London paper, which was ignorant of his 
history, " were a barrister's old gown and wig. So he had 

S 



2/8 Tothill-fields. 

parted with every other comfort ; but emblems of that 
honourable rank, of which he imagined himself the posses- 
sor, he would not relinquish, except with life itself He was 
generally known as the old miser." 

The jury accordingly returned as their verdict, that he 
" died from the want of the common necessaries of life." 

It is difficult to believe that among forty others the 
famous Letters of Junius were actually attributed to this 
eccentric individual.* The Oxford Spy, 1818 (p. 24) states 
that Bickerton kept a horse at Hertford College, which was 
sometimes seen looking out of a window on the second 
floor. Here we bid adieu to "Councillor Bickerton, Esq." 

The Gentlemen s Magazine of the 3 1 st October, 1 796, has 
the following note : — 

" In Tothill-fields — Clarke, a notorious character. A few hours 
previous to his exit, he acknowledged having been guilty of four 
different imirders ; and that he was concerned in the murder of Mrs. 
Sawyer, the barge-builder's wife, at Lambeth, for the discovery of 
which a considerable reward was offered by Government." 

But enough, perhaps, of " shady characters." Let us end 
the chapter by a notice of a Westminster worthy of quite 
another stamp. 

On the 31st May, 1793, William Collins, " whose works 
as an artist have long been known and admired in this 
country,""!" died at his house in Tothill-fields. This local 
artist, of whom Timbs speaks as a famous modeller in 
clay and wax, and carver in wood, was the inseparable 
friend of Gainsborough, and these two artists must have 
been at home amid the Tothill-fields' sports.J Mr. 
J. T. Smith, the learned biographer of Nollekens and his 
Times, writes of him : — 

" Gainsborough's friend, Collins, of Tothill-fields, was indeed the 
most famous modeller of chimney tablets of his day, but his figures 

* See Cushing's Dictionary of Initials and Psaidonyms, and also Notes and 
Qua-ics, 1st series, xi., p. 370. 

t Gentleman's Magazine, \q\. XLIII., p. 576. 
X London and Westminster, Vol. I., p. 148. 



William Collins^ the modeller. 279 

were mostly clothed, and exhibited pastoral scenes, which were under- 
stood by the most common observer ; such, for instance, as a 
shepherd's boy eating his dinner under an old stump of a tree, with 
his dog begging before him ; shepherds and shepherdesses seated 
upon a bank, surrounded by their flocks, &c." 

The same entertaining author in another work — A Book 
for a Rainy Day — remarks further that many of Collins' 
subjects were taken from yEsop's Fables for tablets of chim- 
ney-pieces then in vogue (about 1790), and adds that they 
were here and there to be met with in houses that had been 
suffered to remain in their original state. " I recollect one, 
that of the ' Bear and Bee-hives ' in the back drawing-room 
of the house formerly the mansion of the Duke of Ancaster 
on the western side of Lincoln's Inn Fields." 




S 2 



28o Tothill-fields. 



Chapter X. 



TOTHILL FIELDS (continued). 



" Dieu de Batailles ! where have they this mettle? , 

Is not their climate foggy, raw, and dull? 
On whom, as in despite, the sun looks pale. 
Killing their fruits with frowns? " 

King Henry V. 

" Here Tothill Fields for ever radiant smile ; 
Graced are the streets by many a lordly pile ; 
Here silver Thames rolls on his lucid tide, 
Oo his calm breast boats up or downward glide."* 

" Nature held counsel with herself and said, ' My Romans are gone. To build my new 

empire, I will choose a rude race, all masculine, with brutish strength . I will not grudge 

a competition of the roughest males. Let buffalo gore buffalo, and the pasture to the 
strongest ! ' " — Emerson. 



Our City's Cat/ipits Martins. — ' Merrie Westminster.' — The Toxophi- 
lite Art. — The Butts of a loyal and patriotic parish. — Latimer on 
' Exercise.' — Royal shots. — King James' " Book of Sports." — Locke. 
— The Parish Armoury. — The Armed Association. — The Extending 
Use of Gunpowder.-T-The Trained Bands. — The Great Rebellion. — 
The fort and rampart. — The Scotch prisoners. — The Plague and the 
pest-houses. — The " Five Houses " or " Seven Chimneys." — The 
Maze. — Rural Charms. — A play-ground of boys who were to be 
famous. — A strange adventure. — Disputed claims to the Fields. — 
Enclosure of Vincent-square. — The Duck. — Sport. — George IV, in 
Tothill Fields. — Tothill Fields Trust. 



A S Rome possessed its Campus Martius without the city- 
walls, where the Roman youths performed their exer- 
cises and learned to wrestle and box, to throw the discus, 
hurl the javelin, and drive a chariot, so the youth of West- 
minster could boast for centuries of their Tothill-fields. 
The fields were not only used on great occasions by the 
nobles of the neighbouring Court for their justs and tourna- 
ments, but they were resorted to as an exercise ground or 

* Latin Epilogue by Jas. Mure, Esq., spoken at the Westminster Play in 
18605 translated by Mr. F. H, Forshall. 



"Now let me see your archery!' 281 

playing field throughout the year by the yeoman class. 
Here, then, were held competitions in wrestling, running at 
the quintain, quarter-staff, and other games of skill practised 
by our ancestors, amongst which by far the most important 
was shooting with the long-bow or cross-bow. In point of 
fact the practice of archery or 'shooting' as it was called, was 
made compulsory upon every Englishman from very early 
times. Edward II., Edward III., Richard II. and Edward 
IV. all issued strict ordinances for the observance of the 
art. The last-named monarch in the fifth year of his reign 
commanded every man in England to have a long-bow of 
his own height, and ordered butts to be set up in every 
township, at which the inhabitants were to shoot ' up and 
down ' upon all feast days, under the penalty of one half- 
penny — not an inconsiderable sum in those days — for every 
time they omitted to perform their exercise. 

In the fourteenth century London was " merry London," 
the metropolis of " merry England." The word, as Leigh 
Hunt has pointed out, did not imply exclusively what it 
does now — it meant the best condition in which anything 
could be found, with cheerfulness for the result. Gallant 
soldiers were " merry men." Eavourable weather was 
" merry." And the pleasant village of Westminster, the 
favourite place of residence of the Plantagenet kings and 
princes, was " merry." Under the very eyes of the cour- 
tiers and nobility of that splendid dynasty, the youth of 
Westminster were not behindhand in their military exer- 
cises, when, as Macaulay says, " every yeoman from Kent 
to Northumberland valued himself as one of a race born 
for victory and dominion, and looked down with scorn on 
the nation before which his ancestors had trembled." Why 
should they not be " merry," living in the very atmosphere 
of so stately and puissant a court, when England's great- 
ness was awakening, and France was trembling? 

" They had sports infinite up to the time of the Common- 
wealth — races, and wrestlings, archery, quoits, tennis, foot- 



282 Tothill- fields. 

ball, hurling, &c. Their May-day was worthy of the burst 
of the season ; not a man was left behind out of the fields 
if he could help it ; their apprentices piqued themselves on 
their stout arms, and not on their milliners' faces ; their 
nobility shook off the gout in tilts and tournaments ; their 
Christmas closed the year with a joviality which brought 
the very trees indoors to crown their cups with, and which 
promised admirably for the year that was to come. In 
everything they did there was a reference to Nature and 
her works, as if nothing should make them forget her ; and 
a gallant recognition of the duties of health and strength 
as the foundation of their very right to be fathers."* 

In Strutt's Sports ard Pastimes we read that in the reign 
of Henry VIII., three several Acts were passed for pro- 
moting the practice of shooting with the long-bow ; one 
prohibited the use of cross-bows and hand-guns ; another 
was occasioned by a complaint from the bowyers, fletchers, 
stringers, and arrow-head makers, stating that many 
unlawful games were practised in the open fields to the 
detriment of the public morals and to the great decay of 
archery ; and the third obliged every man, being the King's 
subject, to exercise himself in shooting with the long-bow, 
and also to keep a bow with arrows continually in his 
house. Latimer, in one of his sermons preached before 
King Edward VI., published in 1549, enforced the 
practice of archery from the pulpit. " Men of England in 
times past," he says, •' when they would exercise themselves 
(for we must needs have some recreation, our bodies cannot 
endure without some exercise), they were wont to go 
abroad in the fields of shooting .... The art of 
shooting hath been in times past much esteemed in this 
realm ; it is a gift of God that He hath given us to excel 
all other nations withal ; it hath been God's instrument 
whereby He hath given us many victories against our 
enemies. A wondrous thing, that so excellent a gift of 

* The Town, by Leigh Hunt, Vol. I. 



" Drmv arcJiers^ draw your arroivs ! " 283 

God should be so little esteemed ! I desire, my lords, even 
as ye love the honour and glory of God, and intend to 
remove His indignation, let there be sent forth some 
proclamation, some sharp proclamation to the Justices of 
peace ; for they do not their duty. Justices now be no 
Justices ; there be many good acts made for this matter 
already. In my time my poor father was as diligent to 
teach me to shoot, as to learn me any other thing, and so I 
think other men did their children. He taught me how to 
draw, how to lay my body in my bow, and not to draw 
with strength of arms as other nations do, but with strength 
of the body. I had my bows bought me according to my 
age and strength ; as I increased in them, so my bows 
were made bigger and bigger : for men shall never shoot 
well except they be brought up in it. It is a godly art, a 
wholesome kind of exercise, and much commended in 
physic." 

Holinshed records that Henry VIII. shot as well as any 
of his guards ; Edward VI. was fond of the exercise ; and 
there seems every reason to believe that it was practised by 
King Charles the First, for that monarch issued a proclama- 
tion in the eighth year of his reign, to prevent the fields 
near London " being so enclosed as to interrupt the neces- 
sary and profitable exercise of shooting."'" 

A writer in Notes and Queries of Aug. 6, 1892, assures us 
that there is abundant proof that the cloth-yard shaft of 
the chronicles and the ballad was no myth. The Italian 
traveller, Paulus Jovius,t was an eye-witness of our archery 
in the middle of the sixteenth century. He says that the 
English shot arrows " somewhat thicker than a man's little 
finger, two cubits (36 inches) long, and headed with barbed 



* See Ascham's Toxophiltis, 1545; Markham's Art of Archery, 1634; 
Wood's Bowman'' s Glory, 1682; Aymc for Finshiiry Archers, 1628; Ay me 
for the Archers of St. George's Fields, 1664. 

t Paolo Giovio, 1483 — 1552 ; historian, physician, prior, bishop of Nocera, 
wrote Elona Viroriim Illustriiim. 



284 Tothill-ficlds. 

steel points, from wooden bows of extraordinary size and 
strength." 

The grave John Locke, in one of his private journals 
(1679), records "bowling at Marebone and Putney by per- 
sons of quality ; wrestling in Lincoln's Inn Fields on sum- 
mer evenings ; bear and bull baiting at the Bear Garden ; 
shooting in the long-bow and stob-ball in Tothill Fields." 

Mr. Mackenzie Walcott, writing in Notes and Queries of 
17th January, 1857, tells us that "colleges and parish 
churches possessed their armouries," and the Westminster 
parishes were emphatically no exception to the patriotic 
custom. " Upon the spot now occupied by Artillery-placC; 
the men of Westminster used to practise at ' the Butts ' 
which were provided by the parish in obedience to an 
ordinance of Queen Elizabeth."* These butts are stated 
to have been removed about the time of the battle of 
Waterloo, or just before that date. \ 

In 1548 the vestry of St. Margaret's paid a Mr. Lentall: — 

For making clean 1 1 pair of harness, 9 daggers, and 

8 bills, price every harness IS. 4d. ... ... ... 14s. 

In 1562 the Church possessed "a streamer of white sarce- 
net with a white cross, 10 pair of almayne rivclets, i harness 
for a horseman, 6 black bills, 16 arming swords, 7 sheaves 
of arrows, and 6 daggers." \ 

In the Churchwardens' accounts such entries as the 
following are met with : — 

1555. Payde to Lowe, fletcher, for fetheryng of 
iiij. sheffe of arrowse and new trymmyng of 
the heddes ... ... ... ... ... iijjj. 

1557. Payde for settyng owt of soldyers the vij. 

day of January iii_^ viijj. M\\d. 

and in the last year of Queen Mary, St. Margaret's sent 

out five soldiers to Portsmouth at a cost of 33s. 4d. 

The subjoined extracts from the old minute-books of the 

St. Margaret's Vestry will sufficiently instance the affection 

* Walcott's Memorials, p. 324. 

fMr. W. E. H. Oxley in the West London Press, July 17, 1886. 

X Notes and Queries, 17 January, 1857. 



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The s/iooti)ig-ho?ise. 285 

in which the practice of archery was held by the "parochial 
fathers " as a means of defence against invasion : — 

17 Nozi. 1674. Upon the application of Mr Edward Ffalconberg 
and Mr Edmund Woodruffe, in behalfe of the Archers, 
Clameing a Right in the Shooteing house in Tuttle ffields It 
is thought fitt that (for the future) the Churchwardens for the 
time being doe alwaies at the Letting of the said house 
Reserve Hberty for the Archers to make use of the Chamber 
there. 

8 May 1667. That it be Referred unto the Churchwardens to 
take care that the Shooteing house in Tuttle ffeilds being 
parte of the estate of Mr John Allen late deceased be 
disposed off to the best Advantayge as being a Legacy by him 
left to this Parish. 

6 July 1667. That the present Churchwardens Doe Contract for 
and by in the Lease of the House in Tuttle ffeilds (called the 
Shooting House) for the use of this parish at the most Easie 
Rates they can p'cure it for And what they doe pay for the 
same shall be allowed them at the passing of their Ace' 

20 May 1668. That the Churchwardens Doe Allow unto the 
present tenant in the House commonly called the Shooting 
House in Tuttle Fcilds the Sume of 40^ out of his Rent 
Towards the makeing of a Payre of New Butts and Keeping 
them in Repayre which sd 40^ shall be allowed at the passc- 
ing of the Churchwardens Ace' 

But the honoured long-bow, which did such service in 
ICnglish yeomen's hands at Crecy and Agincourt and 
Poicticrs, was rapidly superseded in the sixteenth century 
for military purposes, by the general introduction of 
" villainous saltpetre " ; and — 

Those days are gone away, 
And their hours are old and grey 

No, the bugle sounds no more, 
And the twanging bow no more ; 
Silent is the ivory shrill 
Past the heath and up the hill. 

So it is : yet let us sing. 

Honour to the old bow-string ; 

Honour to the bugle horn ! 

Honour to the woods unshorn ! 

Honour to the Lincoln green ! 

Honour to the archer keen ! 

Kk.its. 



286 To thin -fields. 

That Westminster kept well abreast of the times is 
illustrated by the following further extracts from the parish 
accounts : — 

1 5 17. To Mr. Fisher, for making the Butts at Tothill o 27 o 
1548. Paid to 1 1 men for wearing the same harness at 

the muster-day, to every man 6d. ... ... ... o 5 6 

1 58 1. For scouring the armour and the shot against 

the musters in Tothill Fields... ... ... ... o 26 o 

Paid for powder for the soldiers upon the mustering days 012 4 

Paid for brown paper for them ... ... ... ... o o o 

Paid to the soldiers, the ancient-bearer, and him that 

played on the drum ... ... ... ... ... o 27 4 

On the 31st October, 1667, the Vestry of St. Margaret's 
ordered — ■ 

That all the Arms, both Offensive and Defensive And also all the 
Watch Mafs now remaining in the Dark Vestry be for the better 
Preservation thereof Removed thence unto the House Newly Erected 
in the Artillery Ground in Tuttle fifields. 

When the clouds of the Civil Wars were gathering in 
threatening sombreness, the fields were a favourite drill- 
ground of the " trained bands," — a body of men " drawn 
forth in arms " in support of the King. Their loyalty soon 
began to waver, however, and eventually they transferred 
their strength to the support of the Parliament. Clarendon 
records that these " trained bands " were at first too lightly 
esteemed, because of their inexperience in any kind of 
service or danger, " beyond the easy practice of their 
postures in the Artillery Garden" ; but the earliest reverses 
of the King showed their mettle, as did the soldiery of the 
"Ironsides" later on, under Cromwell's captaincy. The 
number of men who mustered in the fields at this time was 
so formidable that the above-named writer declares that 
" London and Westminster were an inexhaustible magazine 
of men " for the Parliamentarians, from which the record 
that 14,000 men paraded at one time in the fields derives 
some confirmation. 



The battery. 287 

Sir Richard Steele, ridiculinij the trained bands in 
The Tatler (No. 28), writes : — 

" Our own antient and well-governed cities are conspicuous examples 
to all mankind in their regulation of military achievements. The chief 
citizens, like the noble Italians, hire mercenaries to carry arms in their 
State ; and you shall have a fellow of a desperate fortune, for the gain 
of one half-crown, go through all the dangers of Tothill Fields or the 
Artillery Ground, clap his riglit jaw within two inches of the touch-hole 
of a musket, and fire it off with a huzza with as little concern as he 
tears a pullet.'' 

At the outbreak in 1642 of the Great Rebellion — which 
the inhabitants of London and Westminster did so much 
to precipitate — the rural quietness of Tothill-fields was 
once more disturbed. In obedience to the order of the 
Parliament of the 7th March of that momentous year, 
(1642-3) a battery with an earthen breast-work or rampart 
was erected here, near the Neat-houses, to form part of the 
fortifications wliich were hurriedly thrown up round the 
two cities by the " unruly people of the suburbs "• — to use 
King Charles's own words * — under the zealous supervision 
of Lord Mayor Penington, " a busy stickler of the 
reaction." f 

Mr. W. J. Loftie's History of London contains an inter- 
esting plan showing the Hne of these defence works. The 
battery in Tothill-fields is marked as about midway be- 
tween the Chelsea-road \ and the river-bank opposite 
Vauxhall. The sites of the other forts in the west were at 
positions now corresponding with Victoria-station, Consti- 
tution-hill, Hyde-park-corner, and across the river at Vaux- 
hall. They were destroyed, Walcott states, in 1647, when 
the citizens refused to advance a loan of ^50,000 demanded 
by the Parliament to pay the army. 

* Whitelocke's Memorials of the English Affairs. 

t Heath's Chronicle. 

X Buckingham-palace-road, and the road through the sf|uares. 



288 Tothill- fields. 

" London," says Maitland, " was the very soul of the 
cause." The ordinances of the Parliament were obeyed 
like Acts, and " even mere children became Volunteers, for- 
sook their parents, and followed the camp."* After the 
indecisive battle of Edgehill, the trained bands forced the 
King to abandon his threatened attack on London. Shops 
were shut and apprentices enrolled, proclamation being 
made that when their services were no longer required, the 
masters should reinstate them in their former places. 



Battery in Tothill Fields, /6^?. 

The zeal of the people of Westminster for " the Cause " 
is, in point of fact, amply evidenced by the parish accounts. 
" Behaviour," says Goethe, " is a mirror in which everyone 
shows his image," and our excuse for referring so often to 
the Churchwardens' accounts is that they reflect most 
honestly the hates and bias of the times, and hold, as 'twere, 
the mirror up to Nature and to Truth severe : — 

Churchwardens' Accounts, 1652-3. 

Received of Mr. Edward Martyn for 53 pound weight 

of Gunpowder after the rate of iiij//. ye barrell ...xHji'. \\]d. 

Of Mr. Ffreeman Marchant for foure barrells of Gun- 
powder xvj//'. 

* Heath's Chronicle. 



TJie Trained-bands. 289 

Paid to the Bearers and three Porters for bringing home 
the firehooks from Widdow Glassington's at Tuthill 
bridge ... ... ... ... ... ... ... \V]d. 

Paid for boat-hire when we went to London^and^sould 

foure barrells of Gunpowder ... ... ... ... xijrtf. 

Paid to Mr. Hatton Gardiner for making y^'paire of 
Shooting Butts in Tuttle fields ... \s. 

To Peter Carle and Harris labourers for trenching^ the 

Butts to preserve them from Cattell xxxj. 

Paid to Mr. Browne, Carpenter, for a planke and piles to 

make Bridges over to the same Butts ... ... viij^. v]d. 

Allowed to Mr. ffreeman when wee sould the foure 
barrells of Gunpowder to him in respect of some 
want of weight, and for carriage of it to his house ...viijj. \']d. 

Paid for levelling the ground in Tuttle fields before the 

Butts iijj. 

Whitelocke* records that on the 25th August, 165 1, the 
" Trained Bands of London, Westminster, &c., drew out 
into Tuttle Fields, in all about 14,000 ; the speaker and 
divers members of the Parliament were there to see them." 
A few days afterwards (September 3) Cromwell had gained 
the decisive Battle of Worcester; and on the 21st, the 
victorious general was met near Acton, " with the Speaker 
and the Members, and the Lord Mayor, and Recorder 
Steel, who in a set speech congratulated his great Successes, 
and like a false Prophet, by a mistaken Prolepsis, applied 
these words of the Psalmist,- — To binde tJieir Kings in 
CJiains, and their Arables in Fetters of Iron^ in an arrogant 
Exaltation of his Achievements. Next day the Common 
Prisoners (being driven like a herd of swine) were brought 
through Westminster into TotJiill Fields (a sadder spectacle 
was never seen, except the miserable place of their defeat) 
and there sold to several Merchants, and sent to the Barba- 
does ; the Colours taken, were likewise hanged up in 
Westminster-hall, \\\W\ those taken before at Prt'j/t?;/ and 
Dunbar"^ 



* Sir Bulstrode Whitelocke's Memorials of English Affairs, 1862. 

t A Chronicle of the late Intestine War in the Three Kingdoms, by Tames 
Heath, i66i— p. 301. 



290 Tothill-fields. 

One of the Civil War Tracts of Lancashire tells the 
shameful story with every mark of callous insolence: — 

Friday the 12 of Sept., 165 1, my Lord General drew near to the City of 
London and my Lord Mayor, and Aldermen, Sheriffs, and Recorder 
met about 10 of the clock in the forenoon at Guildhall in their Scarlet 
robes, and with a dozen coaches went forth to meet his Excellency, a 
little beyond Acton, unto whom Mr. Recorder made a congTatulatory 
speech in behalf of the whole City; he was also met on the way by 
many Lords, the Speaker of Parliament and Members of the Council 
of State as also many thousands of citizens both horse and foot (yet 
the Train-band went not forth) which filled the ways and places best 
scituate for beholders four or five miles together. First came his Life- 
guards being a Company of as gallant Genl. as you have seen 
mounted, heroick, and valiant ; after them a Troop of Col. Roivs 
horse belonging to the City, next unto them a great number of Com- 
moners and Gent, of quality, then his Excellency and the Speaker of 
Parliament came in a coach by themselves, and by estimation at least 
three hundred coaches close after one another. 

At Hide Park corner near Knightsbridge stood to receive him the 
blew Regiment of Voluntiers lately raised, and from thence to Picca- 
dilly was placed Col. Barksteads Regiment of red-coats, the great guns 
were also drawn out of St. Jameses, and about the time that his 
Excellency came to Charing Crosse they went off one after another once 
over which they had no sooner done, but there was a gallant volley of 
shot given by the souldiers that brake the air, and with a mighty 
shout of the people ecchoed again to the earth, with order in the 
manner aforesaid with great and small shot, and hallowing of the 
people was observed and done four severall times over. 

As the Generall passed by, the people all along as he went put off 
their hats and had reciprocal respects return'd from him again ; his 
Excellency chose rather to come, in as privately as he could in a coach 
then openly on horseback, to avoid the popularity and applaises of the 
people, desiring rather that the good he doth do this Common-wealth 
may be heard and felt than seen, that the people should attribute or 
ascribe too much unto him, who desires to carry on the work of the 
Lord in all meeknesse and humility. 

The last night the Scots, Highlands, or Redshanks, about 4000 in 
numlier lay on Hampstead heath, four miles from London, and this 
day they were with a guard brought by Highgate on the back-side of 
Islington to Kingsland, and from thence to Milingreen they were 
suffered to receive such charity as people would give them, and 
had a cart-load or two of biskit carrying after them, which is better 
food then heretofore they carried in their Oatmeal bag. The next day 
being Saturday they were brought in at Algate, and so marched 
through cheap-side, Fleet-street and the Strand, and likewise through 
Westminster. For the most part they were very sturdy surley knaves, 
keep them under, and they may serve for nasty stinking vassals, I 



The Scottish prisoners. 291 

leave to every indifferent person that hath beheld them to judge what 
a condition they had been in if such a generation as this had prevailed 
and become their masters, or cut their throats, of which they made 
themselves so sure many of them brought their wives and berns in 
with them, yet were many of our Scotified Citizens so pittifuU unto 
them, that as they passed through the City made them (though 
prisoners at mercy) masters of more money and good white-bread 
than some of them ever see in their lives, they marched this night into 
Tuttlc-fields, some Irish are amongst them, and most of them are 
habited much after that fashion, the English that were at the battel 
are severed out by themselves ; they are not yet come, but are coming 
up.* 

Twelve hundred of these poor fellows, who had succumbed 
to their rigorous treatment, were buried in the Fields. 
The churchwardens' accounts of 1652-3 exhibit the following 
eloquent entry : — 

Paid to Thomas Wright for 67 load of soyle laid on the 
Graves inTuthill fields wherein 1,200 Scotch prisoners 
(taken at the fifight at Worcester) were buried and for 
other paines taken with his teeme of horsse about 
amending the Sanctuarye high way when Generall 
Irelon was buried ... ... ... ... ... xxx^y. 

The accounts of the previous year (165 1) are even more 
interesting as showing the local feeling of the time, and 
bear sad witness to the extraordinary brutality shown to 
the conquered. Livy's woeful exclamation of Vae victis 
was never more gloomily testified. 

Received of the right hono'^'e the Counscll of State to- 
ward reperacon and cleansing of the new Church 
and the new Churchyard after the Scottish prisoners 
had much annoyed and spoiled the same ... ... xxx//. 

Paid to the Ringers for ringing on the fourth of Septem- 
ber, upon intcUig'cnce of y^ overthrow of the Scottish 
Army att Worcester vjj. 

Paid to the Ringers for ringing on the foure and twen- 
tieth day of October, being a day of thanksgiving for 
the victorie over the Scotts att Worcester \\]s. 

Paid for hearbs and lawrcU that were strewd in the 

Church the same dale viijs. 

* Tract in the King's Library Collection at the Brit. Mus. Another victory 
in Lancashire obtained over the Scots by Maj. Gen. Harrison and Collonel 
IMburn. . . . London, printed by B.A. — much. 



292 Tothill-fields. 

Paid to Robert Crispe and sundry other labourers for 
digging trenching and cleansing the new Churchyard 
whereby the annoyance made by the Scottish 
prisoners there was destroyed... ... ... xxxixi'. \\\]d. 

Paid to Ralph Lynes for carrying away part of the soyle 
and filth out of the new Church which the Scotch 
prisoners made there ... ... ... ... ... iji'. vj^. 

Paid for a petition to the Comittee of Prisoners for a 
recompence for iniurie done by the Scotch prisoners 
in the new Church and churchyard .. ... ... xijrt'. 

Paid to Mr. Ffrosts clerke for an Order of the Counsell 
of State, whereby Thirtie pounds was ordered in 
respect of the said iniuries ... ... ... ... \s. 

In justice, however, to the Churchwardens of the year 1650, 
the following payment ought to be quoted, as it would 
appear to show that, before the Battle of Worcester had 
been fought and won, their ears had not been rendered 

deaf to 

"The still sad music of humanity" 

by the exulting psalms of Cromwell's Ironsides: — 

October (1650). — To Prisoners in distresse that came out 

of Scotland xij^/. 

Some of the prisoners, as we have seen, were shipped to the 
Barbadoes, and Whitelock states in his Chronicle (Septem- 
ber 30, 165 1), in his matter of fact way, that, '"upon the 
desire of the Guinea merchants, fifteen hundred of the 
Scots prisoners were granted to them, and sent on ship- 
board to be transported to Guinea to work in the mines 
there, and upon a quarrel among the soldiers in the barges, 
two or three hundred of them were drowned." 

Even a more sorrowful but yet a more humane use is 
next found for these fields. And here we come to a period 
which is perhaps more immediately associated with Tothill- 
fields than any other — the time of the Plague. On the 
ruins of the Cromwellian earthworks was shortly afterwards 
erected, as being somewhat removed from the town, a 
lazarette of boards, called '\the Pest-houses," for the 
reception of the poor folk suffering from the periodic 
visitations of the Plague — for there were many " tymes of 



" /;/ tJiis still place remote from men." 293 

syckncsse " in Westminster,* which led up to and culminated 
in the Great Plague of 1665-6. 

" Time never knew, since he begunnc his houres 
(For aught we reade), a plague so long remaine 
In any cittie as this plague of ours ; 

For now six years in London it hath laine." 

The Triumph of Death, By John Davies, 1609. 

Either the parochial fathers or some such kindly 
philanthropist as " My Lord Craven " thus early instituted 
the principal of field hospital isolation, now-a-days so 
extensively adopted by the Metropolitan Asylums Board. 

The churchwardens' accounts contain the following : — 
Disbursements for repaires done to the Pesthouses in 

TUTHILL fields AND FOR OTHER NECESSARIES THERE 
VIZT. : — 

165 1. Paid to ffrancis Day Carpenter for a doore and 
doore case and for other stufife used and worke 
done at the Pesthouses. As by his bill and receipt 
appeareth iij//. xviji". 

Paid to John Lewis for mending the tyling where the 

sunne dyall stands neere the Pesthouses ... ... \]s. \']d. 

'Paid to Thomas Salloway and John Atkins labourers for 
digging and trenching of 37 rod and a halfe and 4 
foot of ditching att \\\]s. the rod ... ... ... vij//. \]s. 

Paid more to the said Thomas Salloway and John Atkins 
for throwing downe the loame which was digged out 
of the ditch and for levelling the ground there ... wiij.f. 

Paid more to the said Thomas Salloway and John Atkins 
for two dales labour in going to Hide Park and 
bringing bushes thence and for setting them about 
the gate of the Pesthouses and for other labour there \\]s. 

Paid for 1500 of quick-sett for a third rowe sett before 

the ditch there vj.y. iiij<^/. 

1652. Paid to Richard Parrock Smith for work done at 
ye Pesthouses in Tuttlefields and at the new Cage in 
the Sanctuary xxji-. 

Paid to Mr. Hawes for an Elme pipe laid to Convey 
water into y^ Ditch neere y^ pesthouses and for car- 
riage of the pipe \]S. 

and in the accounts of 1672 : — 

For settmg up 2 pumps, i at y^ Pcsthouse and i at the 

Shooting-hous, as by Bill xiij//. 

To a porter 6d., fifor a shovell i. 6., for a Trusse of 

Straw 6d. ... ... ... ... ... ... iji". \]d. 



Notably the years 1603, 1625. 



294 Tothill-fields. 

To — Bayley for 3 Stones to lay under the pumpe as 

by Bill ss. \\d. 

To John Lewis, Bricklayer, as by Bill ... ... ... xviji'. 

To Mr. Hawes for a pype, and for carrying and place- 

ing it at ye pest house ... ... ... ... \s. 

The accounts relating to the Great Plague, which were 
kept separately from the ordinary payments by the church- 
wardens of the time, were accidentally discovered in the 
tower of St. Margaret's Church in 1885. They bear the 
signatures of worthy Emery Hill and Francis Dorington, 
as the justices by whom they were ' allowed,' and were 
printed for the first time by the Rev. R. Ashington Bullen, 
B.A., in the St. Margarefs Parish Magazine. They are eri- 
titled to a reproduction here u'ith Mr. Bullen's notes : — 

"The visitation is commonly supposed to have been in 1665, but 
according to this document it lasted in Westminster for the 32 weeks 
of 1666 from April 9th till November 5th. 

"The first part of this paper consists of a weekly account of 
expenditure for what may be termed extraordinary expenses, i.e.., for 
special cases, and also payments to watchmen (warders) in certain 
streets and to nurses at the pest-house. We quote a few items, retain- 
ing the incorrect, varying and quaint spellings : — 

j\ d. 

Weeke i. April 9th. Wood* a Warder in Peter Street ... 1 '^ 

ffor 2 padlockst ... ... ... i 4 

2 weeke „ i6th 

Elizabeth Helyer a stranger taken up 
at ye new Buldings and sent to ye 
Pest-house and for a nurs to attend 

her 46 

ffor 2 men to carry her to ye Pest-house 2 o 
ffor a trusse of straw ... ... ... 08 

To the searchers for Inquisition on 

three persons ... ... ... i 6 

3 weeke ffor carrying ye goods of severall per- 

sons from St. Steph : Ally to the 

Pest-house 26 

to 2 porters for loding ye sd. goods ... 30 
To a warder at Roberts in S. Stephnes 

Ally 4 dayes and 2 night 5 o 

To Dian. Tanner,^ An Roberts, Eliz. 

and An Turmage at ye Pest-house.. 9 4 

* This item occurs nearly every week until he probably died (perhaps of the 
Plague) about Oct. ist. 

t For fastening up the empty houses from which the plague-stricken had 
been removed. 

X Probably nurses at the Pest-house, 



TJie Plague in Westminster. 295 

To a warder at Biggs one weeke ... 36 
4 weeke. April 30th. To 2 nurses for watching with An 

Thomas 4 nights at ye Pest-house.. 5 6 
ffor a coach to carry Ann Thomas to St. 

Martin's and thence to ye Pest-house 1 6 

To a warder at ye Owle i o 

To Wood a warder in St. .Steph : Ally 3 o 

6 weeke. May 14th. To the 2 children of An Thomas at ye 

Pest-house and a nurse to attend 

them ... ... ... ... ... 56 

7 \\eeke. May 21st. .Sym. Buggy Warder in ye new way.. 3 o 

To Pirie 3 in ffamily ... ... ... 6 6 

8th weeke. flfor carrying John Pirie's goods and 
ffamily from St. Stephn's Ally to ye 
Pest-house ... 6 6 

16 weeke. To Henry Weeden for padlocks as 

by his Bill appeareth ... ... 11 6 

17 weeke. July 30. To Wm. Haithorne to by shoes 

Stockins and Bodice for one of ye 

childr : of El : Thomas ... ... 3 6 

18 weeke. Aug. 6. Symon Buggy a warder in Tuttle Street 3 o 
21 „ Aug. 27. ffor carrying A man to ye pest-house 

who came from Exeter to ye Sanc- 
tuary 3 o 

ffor necessaries whilst he was there... 3 6 
ffor Burying ye man that came from 

Exeter ... ... ... ... 30 

26 „ Oct. I. Wm. Haythorne to by cloathes for ye 

sayd child (Thomas) 2 o 

These are the chief items ; many of them occur again and again. 
The plague seems to have ended by Nov. 5th, as there are no further 
entries after that date, and the expenditure during the last 2 weeks 
amounted to only 4 shillings. 

The .Second part of these Accounts is even of more interest than the 
foregoing, and shows a total expense of more than ^1700, representing 
an expenditure at the present day of probably ^7000 or more. 

P.W.MENTS MADE FOR THE USE OF YE POOR VISITED OF THE PL.\GUE. 

Payd To John Lee for castmg a Uitch and makcing the ^ 

Banks about the pest-house 
for A Lock and Key for A House shutt up in Wood St.. 

for 2 Pound of ffume to Burn in Visited Houses 

To John Angier carpenter, and John Lewis Bricklayer 

for Building a shedd at ye Pest-house ... ... 10 o 

To Henry Weeden for Padlocks, Hasps and Staples to 

afifixe to ye visited Houses and for casements and 

other Iron works at ye Pest-house... ... ... 02 16 

T 2 



02 


7 


3 


00 


I 


4 


01 









o 





6 


o 


8 


10 




I 







4 





o 


10 





o 


7 


6 


I 


2 


6 


o 


4 


6 


4 








o 


8 





o 


12 





o 


4 


6 


15 








00 


2 


6 


12 


14 





00 


10 





20 








10 









296 Tothill-fields. 

For a bagg of Lime to Ayre the Visited houses ... 

For locks and other things for ye visited at Knightsbr : 

For a warrant for summoning severall persons before ye 
Justices who Refused to pay their taxe for ye 
visited "•'= 

For straps for the Sedan t ... 

A cart to carry ye visited corps to ye graves I : W : J ... 

For 2 wheelbarrows ... 

For a Sedan for the visited ... 

Expended in Bymg Physick for the Visited at the Pest- 
houses ... 

To Apothecary for Physick Drugs as p Bill 

To Jon. Angier for 2 shutting windows at ye Search-house 

To John Angier for erecting a new Bonehouse ... 

For Pouwder and Shott and Watching to kill ye Uoggs 

To fifranc Brockhurst in pt. for Shrouds ... 

To the Pitmaker for his care in providing Room for ye 
visited corps ... 

For covering the Ground in yc New Chappell yard 

For 4 Que. (quire) of Dr. Cox's Divertions against ye 
plague 

To fifrancis Brockhurst pte. for shrouds ... 

To him more upon the same Acct 

To John Lennard for his extraordinary paynes in keeping 
the Acct. for the Visited and all other writeings, 
trouble and care thereabouts ... . . ... 20 o 

Allowed unto ourselves for the graves of 2,954 Poor 
people buryed in this parish this yeare called Nils 
at one penny A Piece By order ... ... ... T2 6 

To the Dog-killer from the 2nd of August to ye i6th of 
Sept : ... 

For A Mopp and A Broom ... 

To the Dog-killer for burying 353 Dogs ... 

The Totall of all the Receipts 

„ „ ye Disbursements 

Soe there Rests due to these Accoumpts ... 

* Thi.s item occurs 11 times, sometimes for 4 summonses at once. 

t A closed chair with handles used for carrying ladies. Introduced into 
I>ondon, A.D. 1634, " because of the noise, confusion and danger produced hy 
hackneys, and to save the wear and tear of the streets."' To ease the burden 
on the aims of the two carriers, straps or leather thongs were passed over the 
.shoulder which hung down in front and having holes through which the chair 
handles went, helped to take the weight of the chair. Such a chair is figured 
in Thompson's England, Vol. II., 627, see also II., 767, 768 : Vol. III., 406. 

± This item occurs six times, I : W ; means i week. 



01 


8 





00 


I 





00 


4 





1652 


8 


li 


I7I4 


II 


6 


62 


3 


A\ 



ft 

r 



Eniaygeuient of the Pcst-hoiiscs. 297 

')C it remembered that this Acct. was Audited the Ninth day of 
Member 1667 : By us whose names are hereunto subscriljed And 
found Just in every part. E.mkrv Hill. 

Ffran : DorriN(;ton. 

That the ' local authorities ' of Westminster were not 

.^Ken unawares would be gathered from the subjoined 

^try in the Vestry minutes: — 

14/// July^ 1665. That the Churchwardens doe forthwith proceed 
to the making of an Additional provision for the Reception of 
the pooie Visited of the Pla<;ue at the Pest House in Tuttle 
fifeildes. And that they doe Treatewith & agree with such 
workemen for performing the same as they shall thinke fitt. 
And that they Defrey the Charge thereof out of such Moneys 
as they already have in their Hands or hereafter shall receive 
for that purpose by Order of the Vestry or otherwaies. 

Strype's Stow (1720) refers to these pest-houses, and 

Seymour in his Siu'vey (1735) copies him word for word : — 

In Tothill-fields, which is a large spacious Place, there are certain 
Pest-houses, now made use of by 12 poor Men and their Wives, as 
long as it shall please Ciod to keep us from the Plague. These Pest- 
liouses are built near the Meads as being remote from people. 

The " Five Houses " or " Seven Chimneys," as they were 
called, are shown in a . slight etching made of them by 
Hollar. Thither many a sinister group bore the litter of 
the stricken, lighted by flaring torch or feeble lanthorn, not 
so much with any hope of recover}^, as that the spread of 
the dire infection might thereby be checked. As the 
- pestilence increased in virulence under the fierce brazen 
sky of that awful summer, the Fields became a plague-pit, 
and the lan.es and purlieus of Westminster — 

Thereby themselves to save 
Did vomit out their undigested dead, 
Who by cart-loads were carried to the grave ; 
For all these lanes with folk were overfed. 

Terrible, indeed, comments Walcott, though the skies 
were bright, as if in mockery, must have been the state 
of Westminster at the time ! 

" A midnight silence at the noon of day 
And grass, untrodden, springs beneath the feet 1 ' 

I 'KMHiN. 



298 Tothill-fields. 

It would be presumption to attempt to describe i' 
ravages of "London's Dreadful Visitation,"* while the lu' 
pages of Defoe and Evelyn, and Clarendon and Lingui 
remain on our book-shelves. Pepys writes in his diai 
(Oct. 16, 1665) "They tell me that in Westminster ther^ 
never a physician and but one apothecary left, all bein^^ 
dead;" and again (July 18, 1665): " I was much trouL 
to hear, at Westminster, how the officers do bury the dead 
in the open Tuttle Fields, pretending want of room else- 
where : whereas the New Chapel-yard-f- was walled in at 
the public charge in the last plague-time, merely for want 
of room ; and now none, but such as are able to pay dear 
for it, can be buried there." An idea of the ravages of the 
disease in Westminster may be gathered from the fact 
that nearly 3,000 persons who succumbed thereto, were 
buried at the expense of the parish. 
Stand aloof. 

And let the Pest's triumphant chariot 

Have open way advancing to the tomb 

See how he mocks the pomp and pageantry 

Of earthly kings I A miserable cart 

Heap'd up with human bodies ; dragg'd along 

By pale steeds, skeleton-anatomies ! 

And onwards urged by a wan meagre wretch, 

Doom'd never to return from the foul pit. 

Whither, with oaths, he drives his load of horror. 

Would you look in ? Grey hairs and golden tresses, 

Wan shrivell'd cheeks that have not smiled for years, 

And many a rosy visage smiling still ; 

Bodies in the noisome weeds of beggary wrapt. 

With age decrepit, and wasted to the bone ; 

And youthful frames, august and beautiful, 

In spite of mortal pangs, — there lie they all. 

Embraced in ghastliness I 

John Wilson. 

Mr. Jesse, in his Mcvwrials of Lojidon, thus graphically 
describes the state of Westminster at the time: " In those 
dreadful days, during the raging of the plague in 1665 — 

* A collection of all the Bills of Mortality for 1665 were published under this 
title. 

t Now Christ Church, Victoria-street. 



" The greatest infection that e\'r iL'as heard.^' 299 

i en the red cross and the ' Lord, have mercy upon us ' 

^^r.-e painted on the doors of half the houses in London ; 

en the dead-cart went its round in the still night, and 

le tinkle of the bell, and the cry of ' Bring out your dead,' 

, ne broke the awful silence — it was in a vast pit in the 

neighbourhood of the Artillery Ground that the frequent 

.•td-carts discharged their noisome cargoes by the fitful 

light of the torches which the buryers held in their hands. 

In one of the journals of the period we find a complaint 

made, in regard to these burial places, that ' the bodies are 

piled even to the level of the ground, and thereby poison 

the whole neighbourhood.' The Pest House in the fields 

beyond Old-street, and that in Tothill-fields, appear to 

have been the two principal ones in the neighbourhood of 

the metropolis." * 

" The stoppage of the plague, after all human efforts had 
been tried as it were, with only partial success, was by 
many regarded as supernatural. De Foe was of this 
opinion, and he uses language particularly strong in ex- 
pressing it. ' Nothing' he sa/s, ' but the immediate finger 
of God, nothing but omnipotent power could have put a 
stop to the infection. The contagion despised all medicine ; 
death raged in every corner ; and had it gone on as it did 
then, a few weeks more would have cleared the town of all, 
and of every thing that had a soul. Men every where began 
to despair, every heart failed them for fear : people were 
made desperate through the anguish of their soul, and the 
terrors of death sat in every countenance.' " 

Whatever deference may be given to the idea of an 
immediate interposition of Providence, the alteration of the 
weather in September was doubtless a principal means by 
which the spreading of the pestilence was arrested. Echard, 
whose authority was Dr. Baynard, " an ingenious and 
learned physician," speaking of the state of the seasons 
whilst the infection raged, says that ' there was such a 

* Memorials ot' Loin/oii, by J. Heiieagc Jesse ; 1847. 



300 Tothill-fields. 

general calm and serenity of weather, as if both wind and 
rain had been expelled the kingdom, and for many weeks 
together he could not discover the least breath of wind, not 
even so much as would move a fan ;' that ' the fires in the 
streets with great difficulty were made to burn ; ' and that 
'by the extreme rarefaction of the air, the birds did pant for 
breath, especially those of the larger sort, who were like- 
wise observed to fly more heavily than usual.' 

The suspension of public business, in the height of the 
contagion, was so complete, that grass grew within the very 
area of the exchange, and even in the principal streets of 
the city. All the inns of court were shut up, and all law 
proceedings suspended. Neither cart nor coach was to be 
seen from morning till night, excepting those employed in 
the conveyance of provisions, in the carriage of the infected 
to the pest-houses, or other hospitals, and a few coaches 
used by the physicians. The pest-houses, of which there 
were only two, were situated in Bunhill-fields, near Old- 
street, and in Tothill-fields, Westminster. These were 
found to be of the greatest utility, yet the hurry and multi- 
plicity of cases, which the rapid increase of the pestilenee 
occasioned, prevented the establishing of any more.* 

The West London Press, September, 1 886, contained the 
following suggestive paragraph : — 

Discovery of Ten Skeletotis in a Garden in Westminster. 

A correspondent writes : — " Last Thursday week, during some ex- 
cavations made for foundations for new buildings in a new street which 
will cut across the grounds of the Grey Coat Hospital in Westminster, 
the workmen, at about 3 ft. 6 in. below the surface, came across ten 
skeletons supposed to have been buried there at the time of the plague 
or some such epidemic. The Hospital dates back to 1695. They were 
laid feet to feet in regular order. Two of them appeared to be females 
from the shape of the skulls, and one a lad of 20. Some of the bones 
were very large, and some of the teeth were in good preservation. 
The remains were all carefully collected, and placed in a box for re-in- 
terment. 

* A\\cx]!& History 0/ London, p. 398. 



Lord Craven's account of the Plague. XfiX 

The description given by the Earl of Craven, preserved 

in the Public Record Office, also furnishes an insight into 

the spread of the contagion in and about Westminster : — 

The Earl of Craven's Account of the Proceedings 
of the Justices concerning the Pestilence (Great 
Plague, 1665) 1666. [February 1665-6]. 

Since the receipt of the letter from the Lords of the Councell there 
has been severall Meetings of the Justices of the Peace both to review 
the Orders formerly made by the Councell Board as well as their owne 
and many direcons thereupon given and warrants issued forth to the 
respective officers as the present occasion required both for the pre- 
servation of the inhabitants from the infection of the plague as well as 
making provision for such as were shut up and were in want. 

The Lord Bishop of London was consulted with all concerning 
buriall places who could not consecrate any ground unless a perpetua- 
tie of the same be first obtayned. 

Nevertheless the Justices have directed that such persons who dye 
of the sicknesse shalbe buried in the late usuall places assigned for 
that purpose. 

Such infected who were removable were sent to the Pest House and 
others who could not have been shut up their doors were marked w'^ 
a red crosse for 40 dayes Warders appointed to guard them within as 
well as hinder the approach of Company from w'^out, with a white 
crosse afterwards for the same time. There has been no complaints 
brought to the Justices of any neglect herein but doe believe that due 
execution hath been generally made of this order having themsehes 
made a particular observation in severall places. 

The Churchyards have not been so generall)' covered with lyme in 
regarde of the dearnesse and scarcity thereof there being not a sufficient 
quantity to be had for that end and purpose but much fresh earth and 
lyme has been layd in man\' churchyards and those bod\-cs w-h have 
been there buryed so deep layd that we hope no inconveniencing can 
from thence arise beside special care is taken not to open the same 
graves again. 

The streets are dayly cleansed and the filth carried away by the 
Raker who brings the carts every morning and giveing notice thereof 
to the inhabitants by the sound of his Bell to the end that every 
Perticular house alsoe may be cleared of its filth. As to the laystalls 
too neere the streets and passages much care has been taken for to 
remove them many difficulties have arisen therein by reason of titles in 
law wch the proprietors had therein Not w'l' standing by the industry 
and diligence of the Justices some are already quite removed and the 
rest we hope in a \ery short time wilbe removed to the great advantage 
of the inhabitants as well as to the satisfaction of the Lords of the 
Councell order. 

Beggars have ben and are dayly removed and punished and 
provision made for the poore of each i)arish according to law. 



30:3 Tothill-fields. 

As to the state of the pest house the Justices have frequently and 
very lately considered of it and doe conceive it highly convenient 
for the Preservation of the adjoining Parishes that they were enlarged: 
that in Westminster being able to contayne but 60 persons, and that 
other in the Sohoe but 90 person w^h now serve for St Martins St 
Clements St Paul Covent Garden and St Mary Savoy ; Scarce large 
enough for one of the sayd parishes. That in St Gyles will contain 
but 60 persons w^h considering the multitude of poore in that parish 
cannot be of any considerable use if the sicknesse brake out amongst 
them. Now how these may be enlarged or indeed continued as they 
are for the publique use of the forementioned parishes the ordinary 
taxes and parochial duties being so numerous the middling sort of 
persons soe much impo\erished by the late Calamity of the Plague so 
few or rather none of the Nobility &; gentry likely to continue here m 
case it should please God that the Plague brake out againe is submitted 
to the wisdome of the boarde whose ayde and assistance is w'!^ all 
humility and speed begged herein it being the most probable meaness 
of hindering the Spreading of the Contagiun amongst us. 

The business of inmates & inhabitants in cellars has been very often 
debated and adjudged upon by the Justices and although many diffi- 
culties have appeared to them by reason of particular leases and con- 
tracts between their respective householders and inmates for a certain 
term of yeares yet to come and in regard that severall of the said 
inmates most of which are poore necessitious persons and if once re- 
moved would prove excessively chargable to the parishes (which at this 
period are least able to bear it) the Justices have made a progresse 
herein having convened before them all the respective landlords w'hn 
the adjacent parishes and taken account of each particular case to the 
end that in a short t)'me they doubt not but to give a good account 
hereof, \er)' many being removed alread)' and are dayly remo\'ing. 

The " Five Houses" are described by an anonymous 
writer as retaining in 1832 much of their primitive appear- 
ance. " With the moss and lichens growing on the roofs 
and walls, and their generally old-fashioned quaintness, a 
very small stretch of the imagination removed the buildings 
which had surrounded them even then, and brought them 
once more into the open ground." In that year "these 
houses yet excited some curiosity and a measured drawing 
was made of them at that time. 

" Passing up the narrow court, the primitive little group, 
warranted, perhaps, the idea of a still earlier date for 
their building. The reddish grey tone of the old brick- 
work, where the lime whiting had disappeared, and the 



Another vieiv of the Pcsf-honscs. 



o-'j 




304 Tothill-fields. 

mosses on the roofs, seemed quite out of character with the 
growing neighbourhood surrounding them. The old paHngs 
here and there yet indicated where the pigs and the chickens 
had been kept, and had not long kept their habitation. Over 
one of the doors was nailed the horse-shoe, so salutary a 
preventive against the entrance of the witch, and even a 
belief in its efficacy was at the time elicited from the old 
woman with whom the young measurer of the buildings had 
his early morning conversation."* 

But it is time to turn to brighter scenes. 

Tothill Fields were at one time called " Tuttle-in-the- 
maze " from there having been formerly a maze here ; it is 
shown in Hollar's view previously referred to. In 1672 the 
Churchwardens caused the same to be renovated : — 

Paid to Mr. Wm. Brewer for making a Maze in Tuthill 

ffeilds as by Bill .. ... 200 

Aubrey, f the antiquary, mentions it — 

" There is a Maze at this day in Tuthill Fields, Westminster, and 
much frequented in the summer time in fair afternoons." 

To these pleasantly rural fields the good people of West- 
minster, in the middle of the seventeenth century, were 
wont to resort — 

When toil remitting lent its turn to phi)', 
And all the village train from labour free, 
Led up their sports beneath the spreading tree- 
While many a pastime circled in the shade. 
The young contending as the old surveyed ; 
And many a gambol frolicked o'er the ground. 
And sleights of art and feats of strength went round. 
And still as each repeated pleasure tired, 
Succeeding sports the mirthful band inspired — 

GoLDSMll'H. 

while others, fonder of meditation's calm repose, might 



* The Builder, Jan. 30, 1875. 
+ John Aubry, naturalist and anli([uary, 1626 — 1697; published J//.f( t7/(f;//t-.f, 
1696. 



The maze. A fatal duel. 



i^^ 



stroll alonf^ the Willow Walk, or pass the well-cultivated 
gardens here to be found, listening the while to — 

The chanting' Hnnet, or the mellow thrush 

Hailing the setting" sun, sweet, in the green thorn-bush, 

The socaring lark, the perching red-breast shrill. 

Or deep-toned plovers, grey, wild whistling o'er the hill. 

Burns. 

The Glossary illustratbig English Authors hy Archdeacon 
Nares* has the following article — 

" Tutf/c, ilic Maze in; — that is, the maze in Tothill Fields. Of these 
fields let me speak with the respect which Dr. Johnson, in the first 
edition of his Dictionary, paid to Grub-street. They were the 
Gymnasium of my youth ; but whereabouts the tnaze was once situated, 
1 have not been able to discover. It was probably a garden for public 
resort, in that rural situation ; and at the back of it, an unfrequented 
spot was used, as more lately the field at the back of Montague House 
(now the British Museum) as a place of appointment for duellists." 

In an old play attributed to John Cook {1614) called 
" Green's Tu Quoque, or The Cittie Gallant," occur the 
following lines (VII., 53.) 

Sp. And I will meet thee in the field as fairly 
As the best gentleman that wears a sword I 
6". I accept it. The meeting-place ? 
.S^. Beyond the Maze in Tuttle. 

According to Cunningham the last duel fought here took 
place in 171 1 between Sir Cholmele)' Bering and Mr. 
Richard Thornhill, the notorious bull}-. The combatants 
fought with swords and then with pistols, their weapons 
being so near that the muzzles touched. Bering, who was 
to have been married the next week, was killed at the 
first shot. 

" In October, 1670," says Mr. Walcott, " a complaint was 
made to the Bean that certain persons sold the land, b)- 
many loads in the day, and destroyed the herbage ; so 

* Robert Nares, Archdeacon of Stafford, A.M., F.R.S., <S:c., received liis 
first education at Westminster School, where in 1767, at the early age of 14, 
he was at the head of his election as King's Scholar. In 1800 he married the 
daughter of the Revd. Dr. Smyth, headmaster of Westminster School. He 
was one of the founders of the Royal Society of Literature. It is to his 
Glossary (published 1822) that he owes his literary fame. Died, 1829. 



306 Tothill-ficlds. 

that the place had become an annoyance to passengers, 
having been ' formerly of great use, pleasure and recreation ' 
to the King's scholars and neighbours." 

What a number of famous men have " gone up Fields " 
to play, or loiter, or dream, according to their boyish 
temperament ! To mention only a few — Ben Jonson ( i 574) ; 
William Heminge, the dramatic writer and fellow actor of 
Shakespeare ; Richard Busby (1606), afterwards head- 
master ; William Cartwright (161 1), the poet and divine; 
Sir Harry Vane (1612), beheaded in 1662; Sir Arthur 
Haselrigge(i6i2), 'regicide'; Cowley the poet (161 8j; Adam 
Littleton (1627), the great and justly celebrated scholar ; 
the Marquis of Halifax, statesman and author ; John 
Dryden (163 1) ; John Locke (1632) ; Sir Christopher Wren 
(1632); Robert South, the divine (1633) ; Dr. Humphrey 
Prideaux (1648), the historian and divine ; Elkanah Settle, 
poet (1648); Matthew Prior ; Warren Hastings; Edward 
Gibbon, the great historian ; Robert Nares ; Lord Albemarle ; 
the boy-friends, Glynne and Wake ; Taswell, the historian ; 
Francis Atterbury, Bishop of Rochester, Samuel P'ell, 
George Herbert, Dr. John Wilson, Dr. G. Hooper, Dr. N. 
Onley, Dr. Zachary Pearce, Samuel and Charles Wesley, 
Vincent Bourne, Wm. Cowper, Wm. Murray (Earl Mans- 
field), T. Sheridan, Chas. Churchill, W'^m. Burke, the 
Cumberlands, the Colmans, the Lripeys, Dr. Vincent, the 
Lloyds, Lord Pitt Lennox, Robert Southey, Dr. Page, Dr. 
Care)', PI Smedley, Patrick Colquhoun, Henry Ma}'hew, 
G. A. Henty, Dean Milman, V. Hale P^orshall, Dr. H. G. 
Liddell. 

The solitary character of this tract of land, spreading out 
to the Chelsea-road, beyond which lay the " P^ive Plelds " 
extending to Knightsbridge, is illustrated by an incident 
not uncommon to the neighbourhood, at a period when the 
highwayman would lie in ambush for the belated pedestrian, 
or for the chaise, which in this instance was conveying not 
the most loyal subjects of George 1 1, from one of those 



Masked ' detectives. ' 307 

political meetings when the mug-house riots were at their 
height. 

" Such was the disturbed condition of society, that two 
witnesses were sufficient for the immediate arrest of any 
party suspected of harbouring either Romish priest, or 
other of proven Jacobite politics, and great abuses were 
consequent upon this hasty legislation. The panic created by 
the rumoured march of the Highlanders, with the numerous 
party of the disaffected in London, kept the alarmed citizens 
wakeful in their beds ; for the Highlanders were feared as 
a terrible race, and possibly no anticipated result had been 
surrounded with greater doubt and uncertainty, but that 
the energy of the king, backed as it was by the commercial 
interests of the Londoners, threw the balance in favour of 
the new dynasty. In the summer of 1745, two adherents 
of the House of Stuart, — one a young officer in the 
Pretender's army, — had hired a chaise to convey them from 
Westminster to the then remote village of Chelsea. To 
avoid the rioting in the town, they had taken a route across 
the less disturbed fields. They had not proceeded very far, 
however, before two well-mounted men made their appear- 
ance, and so suddenly that had they risen out of the earth 
it could not have surprised them more. Both men bore 
masks, and whilst one of them stopped the post-boy, the 
other rode up to the window of the chaise, and scrutinised 
the occupants within. The post-boy spoke in too low a 
tone to be heard by the travellers, but whatever might 
have been the nature of the conversation it was sufficientl)- 
talismanic to relieve the party of their apprehensions. 
Making a sign to his companion, both men turned their 
horses' heads in the direction of the town, and the postboy 
proceeded on his journey. Upon reaching their destination, 
they asked the 'boy' who his rather suspicious-looking 
friends were, to which he returned no answer; but upon being, 
pressed again on the subject, said, ' It's not much matter 
who the)' are, but they belong to those who don't care to 



3o8 Tothili-ficlds. 

meddle with Prince Charley's boys ! ' The mystery seemed 
now greater than before, and further inquiry might only 
have involved further difficulty. It was evident the postboy 
knew too much, but in what manner he had become 
acquainted with their political bias it was impossible for 
them to conceive. Treating the matter, however, as a joke, 
and paying the boy handsomely, the matter ended, but 
their anxiety only terminated by their quitting London for 
the North. The widow of one of these gentlemen died in 
1824, at the advanced age of ninety-five years. After the 
amnesty, her husband, who fought at the Battle of Culloden, 
had, in common with others some curious restraint laid 
upon him, one of which was. that he could not ride a horse 
of a higher value than ;^io, without forfeiture of it to any 
one who chose to avail himself of the prohibition."* 

From the minute-books of the Vestry of the then undi- 
vided parish, it would appear that in the seventeenth century 
the Dean and Chapter again and again laid claim to the 
ownership of the land, but without success. In 1696 the 
Dean and Chapter revived their claims to the freehold ; and 
a committee, consisting of Mr. Justice Railton, Mr. Hugh 
Squier, Mr. John Parker, Mr. Charles Rampayne, and others 
were directed to investigate the claim, and to search the 
ancient deeds and records relating to the title ; but as the 
Vestry,in 1701 -1704 sanctioned the erection of Mrs. Kififord's 
almshouses for poor gentlewomen on the land, the Dean and 
Chapter were not yet successful. 

All persons who did not convey stable refuse, &c., on 
to the land were charged gd. per load for the soil removed 
by them, in 1705, and the Churchwardens were instructed 
to prosecute all persons conveying sand away from the fields. 

The plough was brought into requisition to aid in main- 
taining the title of the parish : — 

No7'. I, 1754. — The Churchwardens acquainted the Vestry that 
they had caused the Buildings in Tothil Common which were 
built at the charge of this Parish in the time of the Plague in 

* The Builder, Jan. 30, 1875. 



Questions of right and title. 309 

King Charles the 2nd Reign for Pest-Houses & the ground & 
trees before the same to be plowed round in order to maintain 
this parishes claim & right therein. 
Resolved that this Vestry do approve tlicreof & that the thanks 

of this \'estry be given to the Churchwardens for their care 

in prescrxing the rights of this parish. 

The title was put to the te.st by the Dean and Chapter 
enclosing portions of the land and letting the same for 
building purposes, whereupon the Vestry directed the 
churchwardens, with such assistance as they might find 
necessary, to demolish the fence and put " a man in 
possession" on behalf of the parish. An action for trespass 
was brought against the churchw^ardens and others who 
took part in the demolition, and the decision was against 
the Vestry except as to certain small plots. 

In 1753 a Committee of enquiry reported that in their 
opinion the inhabitants of the two parishes had an un- 
doubted right to commoning and herbage, and that 
encroachments had been made thereon within late years. 

In 1795, the Vestry of St. Margaret having placed a 
notice-board against the houses called the "Five Chimnies " 
asserting a claim thereto, St. John's Vestry promptly 
ordered the notice to be forthwith taken down, " as the 
parish of St. Margaret have no exclusive right in the said 
property." At last, after an intermittent dispute of over a 
hundred years' duration, the Dean and Chapter took, in 
July, 1808, a determined action in asserting their claim to 
the freehold of Tothill-fields. Dr. William Vincent was 
Dean at the time (1802-15). His re.sokite character and 
enduring interest in Westminster School led him to set 
aside the interminable questions of law that had gathered 
around the controver.sy. In a letter, dated 27th July, 1808, 
George Giles Vincent, the chapter clerk, intimated " the 
intention of the Dean and Chapter immediately to inclose 
Tothill Field " ; but the wish was at the same time expressed 
" to give every accommodation possible to the parishes 
and to the inhabitants, and particularly to those persons 

V 



3IO TotJiill-ficlds. 

resident in the neighbourhood of Tothill Field." Accord- 
ingly the Dean and Chapter offered to preserve existing 
roads and footpaths,* and also to grant such other new 
roads and paths as might be wished for, and thought con- 
venient and consistent with reason without being prejudicial 
to their interests. The Vestry deferred giving approval, 
owing to doubts as to the rights of the Dean and Chapter. 
In the meanwhile the senior churchwarden, Mr. W. H. 
White, wrote to the chapter clerk pointing out that the 
occasion now presented itself wherein the Dean and 
Chapter might essentiall}' accommodate the parish in a 
matter which the Vestr}^ had long and ardently wished, 
and which the Dean, as late Rector, was fully aware of, — that 
of extending the Burial Ground. Lord Grosvenor had 
long since been applied to for the purpose without the 
desired effect, and Mr. White now asked that the Dean 
and Chapter would set apart in a corner of the said Field, 
a piece of ground for the parish use. The suggestion failed 
to commend itself, however, to the acceptance of the 
Chapter. 

Hughson, in his Walks through London, makes mention of 
Vincent- square as a " neat square, and one of the most 
spacious in London : each side consists of elegantly-con- 
structed houses, somewhat in the cottage style." On the 
east side is the church of St. Mary the Virgin {see page 224); 
on the west side, at the corner with Walcott-street, is the 

* A list of the public footpaths accompanied the letter : — 

A Road and footpath from the South side of the Horseferry Koad between the Premises 

in the possession of Messrs. Watts & .Son Carpenters and Mrs. Storrs House and 

Ciarden Grounds towards the West end to the Laids and Garden Oround in the 

possession of Mr. Vidler, Earl (irosvenor, Mrs. Miason, Messrs. Hodges and Co. 

Distillers, Mr. Burcher, and Mr. Cook's Garden Ground on Millbank and to the 

five Chimneys. 
A Road and footpath from the said South side of the Horseferry Road towards the 

North end to the Timber Yard on Millbank and to the Premises in the occupation 

of Barrow Slaughterer of Horses. 

A footpath from the said South side of the Horseferry Road across the Field leavinsc 

Mrs. Storrs house and garden Grounds on the right to North end of the Willow 

Walk. 
A Ro.ad and footpath from the West end of the Horseferry Road between the Grey 

Coat Hospital .and the Pound towards the North end of the Willow Walk for the 

Gardeners Carts to come from Millbank down by the said Willow Walk to the 

said Road. 
A Road and footpath in the front of the Houses in Rochester Row as is now used and 

long accustomed. 



I'tnceut-squarc. 31 1 

Coldstream Guards Hospital {sec Chap. XV.), shadowing the 
Westminster I'olicc Court {see Chap. XV.), which adjoins it. 
At the north-west corner stand St. Stephen's Church and 
schools, an eloquent monument to the munificence of the 
most benevolent lady the nineteenth century has seen. 

Dean Vincent's name is also perpetuated in Vincent- 
street, Vincent-row, and Vincent-place. There was formerly 
also a Vincent-terrace in Vincent-street, Although no 
other name could have been more fittingly applied, it is 
almost a pit)- that the ancient names of Tothill (except as 
to the street in St. Margaret's parish), or Bulinga were lost 
sight of or passed over. This regret was expressed by 
Mr. Thoms, the antiquarian (who lived in Westminster the 
greater part of his life), in Ahtes and Queries, of June 16, 
1877, wherein he declares that Dean Vincent " was a ripe 
scholar and worthy man, who, if consulted, would never have 
consented to the change." 

The ten acres which were presently to perpetuate the 
name of Dean Vincent in Vincent-square, were first marked 
out in 1 8 10 for appropriation as a playground for the 
scholars of " St. Peter's College." There would appear to 
have been no intention at first to enclose the space by 
railings, for ^3 was paid for a plough and a team of horses 
to drive deep furrows round the site, and a further sum of 
£2 4s. was given for the digging of a trench at the north- 
east end, to prevent carts and other traffic from passing 
over. A map, dated 18 16, shows a large pond existing 
near the west angle of the square. Considerable sums 
were expended after the ' reclamation ' in making the 
ground suitable for out-door sports, and subsequentl}- for 
cricket. It was enclosed with iron railings and gates by 
the Dean and Chapter in 1842. The eminent scholar after 
whom the .square was named, whose career has already 
been noticed at p. 86, was connected with Westminster 
more clo.sely than an}' one other of the Deans, for he was in 
succession scholar, under-master, head-master (1788- 1802), 

\' 2 



312 Tothill-fidds. 

a prebendary of the Abbe}-, rector of St. John's parish, and 
Dean of Westminster ( 1802-18 15). 

Dr. Vincent* succeeded Dr. Smith as headmaster in 1788, 
having therefore passed twice through his school — first as 
a boy, and secondly, from usher to headmaster. It is also 
remarkable that he almost constantly resided within the 
Abbey precincts from his eighth to his .seventy-sixth year. 
His head-mastership was characterised by distinguished 
ability. His scholars long remembered, says Dean Stanley, 
his swinging pace, his sonorous quotations, and the loud Latin 
call of Eloqiiere, puer, eloqiicre, with which he ordered the 
boys to speak out. It is said that shortly after his nomin- 
ation as Dean, he met George HI. on the terrace of Windsor 
Castle. The King expressed his regret at the .separation 
of the See of Rochester from the Deanery. The Doctor 
replied that he was perfectly content. " If you are satisfied," 
said the King, " I am not. They ought not to have been 
separated — they ought not to have been separated." "If 
he had had the choice of all the preferments in his Majest}^'s 
gift, there is none," Vincent said, " that he should rather 
have had than the Deanery of Westminster." f One of the 
earlie-st publications of this great scholar was A Sermon 
preached at St. Margaret's, Westminster, for the Grey Coat 
School of the parisJi, 8vo., 1792 — a discour.se which was in 
fact a proclamation and defence of its author's strong 
con.servative politics, and was printed at the request 
of the Association against Republicans and Levellers, 
by whom, it is said, about 20,000 copies of it were 
distributed. But it was as an oriental geographer that Dr. 
Vincent's fame was established. His works on ancient 
commerce and navigation are monuments of profound 



* Dr. Vincent married at St. Margaret's, on 15, Aug. 1771, Hannah, (b. 3 
Aug., 1735, baptized 21 Aug. following in St. John's Church), fourth daughter 
of George Wyatt, chief clerk of the Vote office, House of Commons. Died 
17 Feb., 1807, and was buried in the Abbey. 

t Stanley's Mouoriah, 



Mother Hubbard and ''the Duck!^ 313 

scholarship. His celebrated commentary on Ossian's 
Voyage of Nearchus appeared in 1797, and his History of 
the Commerce and Navigation of the Ancients in the Indian 
Ocean in 1807. The former work was translated into 
French on the express authority of Napoleon Buonaparte. 
The Dean's .second son, George Giles Vincent, was educated 
at Westminster school, and became chapter clerk in 1803 ; 
he died 28th January, 1859, and was buried in the Abbey. 
An admirable engraving- of Dr. Vincent appears as a 
frontispiece to Vol. I. of Ackermann's History of West- 
minster Abbey. 

Lord Albemarle, tells us in his Fifty Years of my 
Life that Tothill-fields was the Westminster play-ground 
in his time. " In one part of the field was a large pond 
called the ' duck.' Here we skated in the winter and hunted 
ducks in the summer. Near the ' duck ' lived Mother 
Hubbard, who used to let out guns to the boys. At Mother 
Hubbard's you might have fowling pieces of all sorts and 
sizes, from the ' golden touch-hole ' down to one which, 
from a deep dent in the barrel, was called * the gun which 
shoots round the corner.' 

" The big fellows use to vapour about ha\ing shot snipe 
in Tothill-fields, but such a descrijjtion of game had taken 
flight when I sported over this manor. 

" Leading from Tothill-fields was a road called the 
' Willow-walk,' * which, terminating at the * Half-penny 
Hatch,' opened on to the Thames near to the spot on 
which Millbank Penitentiary now stands. 

" The road on each side was bordered b)- wretched 
hoxels, to which were attached small plots of swampy 
ground which .served the poor inhabitants for gardens, and 
were separated from each other by ditches. To ' follow the 
leader' over these ditches was one of our summer amuse- 
ments." (See page 12.) 

* Willow'walk was identical with the present VVarwick-stiect. 



314 Tot hill-fields. 

The reader will be the more gratified if Lord Albemarle 
be allowed to proceed in his own good-humoured enter- 
taining way to tell a further anecdote of the history of 
these fields : — 

" Some little time ago, as I was talking over the changes 
of the Tothill-fields of our time with my old school-fellow 
Lord de Ros,* he related to me how these same back slums 
of Westminster were once honoured with the presence of 
the most gorgeous of monarchs, and on the most gorgeous 
day of his reign — the Coronation day of George the Fourth. 

" I need hardly mention that while the sound of trumpets 
and firing of cannon announced that the newly-crowned 
king was receiving the homage of the nobles of England 
in Westminster Hall, there were assembled outside its walls 
large multitudes of his lieges, who vvere expressing by 
hooting and yells their indignation that the Queen Consort 
had not been admitted to her share in the pageant. 

" This feeling had so increased towards the evening 
that the King was told if he attempted to return to his 
palace by the ordinary route, he would run the risk of 
being torn to pieces by the mob. 

" To avert this danger, it was suggested that Tothill-fields 
would be the safer way home. But who knew anything of a 
region of such ill repute ? Who but my school-fellow Lord 
de Ros, then a lieutenant of Life Guards, and forming that day 
one of his Majesty's escort Pf To him was consigned the pilot- 
age of the Royal cortege ; under his guidance it proceeded up 
Abingdon-street, along Millbank-street, through the Half- 
penny HatcJi and the Willow Walk, leaving the " Seven 
Chimneys " on its right. It next arrived at " Five Fields," 
now Eaton-square, passed through Grosvenor-place and by 
Constitution-hill to the back entrance of Carlton Palace, 

*William, Baron de Ros, a Privy Councillor, Lieutenant-Colonel of the 4th 
Hussars, Lieutenant-Governor of the Tower ; died in 1S74. 

•t The escort was furnished by the first regiment of Life Guards. The officers 
were : — Major Henry Cavendish, Captoin Oakes, Lieut. Hon. William 
Fitzgerald de Ros, Cornet Locke. 



George IV. funis safety there. 315 

which they did not reach till eleven o'clock at night. The 
King, as well as might be supposed, was horribly nervous, 
and kept constantly calling to the oflRcers of the escort to 
keep well up to the carriage \\'indows." 

Mr. W. J. Thorns, writing in the editorial chair of Notes 
and Queries of the 16 June, 1887, takes the occasion of 
correcting the two topographical errors (marked in italics) 
made by Lord Abemarle, for giving many historical par- 
ticulars concerning the locality : — 

" Before noticing tlie two topographical errors in the foregoing 
passage, which I ha\c marked in italics, one word as to the popular 
feeling on George IV.'s coronation day. I have no doubt that in 
many parts of the metropolis it was as Lord Albemarle describes it. 
But the queen's injudicious conduct in trying to gain admission to the 
Abbey was disapproved by large masses of the spectators. I was in 
a gallery erected in St. Margaret's Churchyard, just opposite to the 
.Sessions House, when she passed. I had, from the corner of Parlia- 
ment Street, seen her entrance into London amidst the shouts 
of the people. I was strongly opposed to her, but I was deeply 
pained at the reception she met with on that Coronation morning. 
Whatever were her errors, she was a queen and a lady, and the groans 
and hisses she then met with pained and disgusted me ; and, I should 
sa\- more, those signs of disapproliation were met b\' very few counter 
cheers. In the evening I saw, in Abingdon Street, Great (jeorge 
Street, and the Birdcage Walk, many amusing incidents too long to 
tell here, but none indicative of any ill feeling on the part of the public, 
either towards the king personally or to those who had assisted at the 
day's proceedings. 

The key to Lord Albemarle's mistake is to be found in a passage a 
]3age or two before that which has just been quoted, where he says, 
" Leading from Tothill P'ields was a road called ' The Willow Walk,' 
which, terminating at the Half-pcnn\- Hatch, opened on to the Thames 
near to the spot on which Millbank Penitentiary now stands." Now 
the " PLilfpenny Hatch" led from Tothill Fields on to Millbank, about 
a hundred feet south of the Penitentiary wall, partly through a market 
garden and partly through a walk bordered on each side by a filth)' 
ditch edged with stunted willows, and it came out by the Ship public- 
house, of which the landlord was named (julston ; and the line of the 
old Halfpenny Hatch is to this day marked liy a row of miserable 
cottages, still called "Gulston's Cottages," which lead to Ponsonby 
Place, and so on to Millbank ; and as the name of mine host of the 
Ship is preserved in the cottages, so when his hostel was pulled down 
to make a carriage-wa\- access to V'auxhall Bridge, his hostel, the 
Ship, was removed to Millbank Row where it has been moored ever 
since. 



3i6 TotJiill-ficlds. 

Now, the " Willow Walk" which George IV. drove through on July 
19, 1 82 1, and which probably had never before been visited by ro)'alty, 
unless, perhaps, by the merry monarch on a visit to old Madame 
Gwynn at her house by the Neate Houses, occupied the site of 
Warwick Street, running south-west by west from " Fields," being, in 
fact, a continuation of Rochester Row, and ending at the " Monster 
Tea Gardens," which were on the site of the old garden of the monastery 
(hence its name), and had on one side the remains of its ancient wall. 

The Willow Walk was wide enough for two carriages to pass. It 
was flanked on each side by a filthy ditch, the filth hidden by the 
duck-weed, and on each side of the ditch a thick row of pollard 
willows ; and about half way along on the left side, going towards 
"The Monster," stood the tuml)le-clown hovel in which poor Slender 
Billy, whose melancholy story is well told by Lord Albemarle, provided 
dog" fighting and badger baiting for the lovers of those sports. 

But, though wide enough for a carriage, it was never so used, being 
blocked at either end by a very primitive stile, namely, two larg^e 
trunks of trees laid lengthways, and supported each on three or four 
short stumps, and so overlapping each other that only foot passengers 
could pass through the narrow opening. 

The road by which the king returned to Carlton House — and if the 
state of public feeling had something" to do with its selection, the 
crowded state of Parliament Street, George Street, and the Birdcage 
Walk, which were crammed with carriages, might well have had some 
influence — was through Abingdon Street to Millbank, down the Vaux- 
hall Bridge Road (the bridge was opened in 1816), and over the 
Sewers Bridge to the Willow Walk, thence over the wooden bridge at 
Chelsea, and, as I understood, down Belgrave Place, past the Queen's 
Riding" School, as it was called, and into St. James's Park at Bucking- 
ham Gate. 

In coming down Vauxhall Bridge Road the king passed on his right 
hand the old pest-houses, known as the Five Chimne)'s, not " Seven 
Chimney's." The site where the)' stood was, till very recently, known 
as Five Chimney Court, -but is now changed into Douglas Gardens. 
The spot is memorable for one thing which may interest Lord 
Albemarle. Coombes, the renowned champion of the Thames, whose 
monument in Brompton Cemetery attracts ahiiost as much attention as 
that of another champion, Jackson, was born in one of the group of 
those tumble-down houses (of which I have a pretty pencil drawing) 
known as the Five Chimneys." 

The .spoliation of Tothill-field.s vva.s no\\' at hand, and 
their .surrender to the "voracious maw" " of bricks and 
mortar became imminent. In April of 1825, the Vestry of 
St. John's considered a Bill for draining, lighting, and 
improving Tothill-fields, which was approved of by the 



A vietv across the fields. 



%\7 




^ ^ 



ft ^ 






3 1 8 Tot hill- fields. 

Vestry, and steps were ordered to be taken to have " the 
backfields" included in the jurisdiction of the Commissioners 
to be appointed. Accordingly "an Act for paving, draining, 
cleansing, lighting, watching, and improving the Streets 
and Public Places which are or shall be made upon certain 
Grounds . . . commonly called Tothill P'ields," was 
passed — the 6 Geo. IV., cap. 134. The first meeting of the 
newly formed Trust was held on the i8th July, 1825. The 
qualification of a trustee was the pos.session in his own right 
of an actual interest in lands, tenements, or hereditaments 
of a clear yearly income of i^ioo, or of a personal estate of 
iJ"5,ooo over and above just debts. The meetings of the 
Trust were held at the " Regent Arms " public house. 
The 'facile art' of spending. ' other people's money' was 
c]uickly learnt: a rate of 2s. was the first made; in 1827 
it was 4s. ; and, after twelve months' negotiation, ^10,000 
was borrowed of the Exchequer Loan Commissioners at 
five per cent. In October, 1826, £i was paid to the 
constable " for attending the Collector of the Rates round 
the District to enforce the rates," — an item that, like murder, 
speaks ' with most miraculous organ.' 

. But the new Trust had an Augean stable to clean — and 
it would not have been the first time in history if the hand 
of reform were resented by those whose very benefit was 
in solicitous regard. No streets were lighted, and Regent- 
street and Chapter-street were in .so ruinous and dangerous 
a state, as to occasion presentments by the Annoyance 
Jury. The Trustees quickly .set to work ; Regent-street 
was first paved and lighted (except where done by occupiers) 
in 1826, and carriageways and footways were first formed 
in PYi"'^^-''ti'eet, Chapter-street, Carey-street, Vincent-square, 
Hide-place, Cobourg-row, and Vincent-street. Regent- 
street was repaved in 1848 at a cost of ^,3,100; the footway 
was not to be less than 8ft. wide. In January of 1831, 
Mr. John Lettsom Elliott — the doyen of all who have taken 
any part in Westminster's self-government — was elected on 



The old Bridewell. 319 

the Trust. The mention of Mr. ElHott'.s name, who is 

happih' still amoni^st us — 

His hair just grizzled 
As in a green old age — 

Dkvdkn. 

brinies forcibly home to us that within livint^ memory there 
were open ditches in Cobourg-row, Causton-street, and 
Garden-street, which were this year (Nov. 1831) ordered to 
be cleared, and " the slop in Cobourg-row banked up at the 
side of the open ditch." This ditcli . was made a covered 
.sewer in 1838. Neither in 1836 nor in 1843, we learn from 
the minute-books of the Trust, was an}' part of their district 
watered ; in the latter year complainants were told that 
they might remed)' the matter by subscription among them- 
selves. In 1832, the toll bar at the V^auxhall-bridge-road 
end of Rochester-row \\as removed, and in 1850 that at the 
junction of Chaj5ter-street and Vauxhall-bridge-road. 

An essay which pretended, however imperfectly, to sketch 
the history of Tothill-fields, would be incomplete if all 
reference to Tothill-fields Bridewell, or its successor, Tothill- 
fields Prison, were omitted. Without allowing, "therefore, 
the boundary of St. John's Parish to offer an insurmountable 
barrier, we will at once proceed to state tliat the old House 
of Correction, occupied a site adjoining the north side of 
the Green-coat Hospital, in Palmer's Village.* The site of 
the school is now occupied by the Army and Navy Auxiliary 
Stores, so that the Bridewell may be roughly said to have 
stood between S|)cncer-place and Howick-placc. It is very 
probable, therefore, that the hospital and its next-door 
neighbour, the Bridewell, were originally joint parish institu- 
tions, and ainongst the earliest built for carrying out the 
provisions of the Poor Law. 

The Vestry actively interested themsehes for well nigh 
two hundred years in the prison accominodation in the 
parish. The older of the two establishments — the Gate 

* The Ilosiiital stood in St. Margarct's-passagc, now (1S92) recently closed 
and built upon by an extension of the Stores prenuses. 



320 Tothill-fichis. 

House* — was erected by Walter de Warfield, the cellarer 
or butler of the Abbey, in the reign of Edward III. (1327). 
It was conducted by a lessee of the Dean and Chapter as a 
speculation, the proprietor being dependent on the prisoners' 
fees, and was demolished, owing to its ruinous condition, in 
1776-7, a victim to the well-founded indignation of Dr. 
Johnson. 

The inconvenience of the .system of maintenance by fees, 
and the exorbitant amounts charged at times, elicited 
remonstrances from the Vestry so late as 1727. The 
Tothill-fields Bridewell was erected in 161 8 f by the local 
Justices as a House of Correction for offenders within their 
jurisdiction. So long as its use was limited to local pur- 
])oses, the cost of maintenance was borne by the local rates 
in the proportion of two-thirds by the parish of St. 
Margaret, and the remaining third jointly between the 
parishes of St. Martin-in-the-Fields and St. Clement Dane.s. 

Seymour (1735) thus describes the prison: "Adjoining 
to this Hospital is Bridewell ; a Place for the Correction 
of such idle and loose Livers as are taken up within this 
Liberty of Westminster, and thither sent by the Justices of 
the Peace for Correction, which is whipping, and beating of 
Hemp (a Punishment very ^\'ell suited to Idleness) ; and 
are thence discharged by Order of the Justices, as they in 
their wisdom find occasion. The keeper of this Bridewell 
is Mr. Reading." 

Northbrooke (1760) thus refers to it : — " By Tothill- 
fields is a house of correction for loose and disorderly 
persons ; which, like all other prisons of the like nature, is 
called a Bridewell, after the London house of correction in 
the anticnt palace of that name." The prisoners were 
employed in the 17th century in the manufacture of hemp. 



* l'"or interesting notices of this liistoric prison, see Walcott's and Dean 
Stanley's Mcinoriah. 

t Ilattoa. 



''A faiiioHS factory for hemp!' 321 

The at^rccmcnt* with the first keeper of the prison 
(Richard l^ctts of Westminster, hempdresser) provides for 
" a stock to bee by him emploied and laid out in hempe as 
well for himself and his servants to worke upon as for the 
Prisoners to bee thither sent or committed." 

Sir Richard Steel mentions the l^ridewell, concerning 
which also the Toivii Spy, published in 1725 quaintl}' re- 
marks : " In the fields of this parish stands a famous 
factor}^ for hemp, which is wrought with greater interest 
than ordinary, because the manufacturers enjoy the fruits of 
their own labour, a number of English gentlemen having 
here a restrain put upon their liberties." 

Earl}- in Queen Anne's reign the Bridewell became a 
common gaol for criminals, and not alone a place of 
detention for vagrants. The Gate House prison was 
removed, as already stated, in 1777, in consequence of 
which the Bridewell was enlarged in 1778. Perhaps it was 
the result of these alterations that the Bridewell was 
much better than the generality of prisons of the time, of 
which Crabbe has given us a vivid idea in the lines 
descriptive of the then state of the common gaols — 

where the \cry siyht 
Of the warm sun is favour and not rij^ht ; 
Where all wc hear or see tlie feelinj^s sliock. 
The oath and ^roan, the fetter and the lock ; 

for the philanthropic Howard described it in unqualified 
terms (1777) as being "remarkably well managed," at that 
period, and held up its enlightened and careful keeper, one 
George Smith, as a model to other Governors. On the face 
of the building over the gate was this inscription : — 

" Here is several sorts of work for the poor of this parish of St. 
Margaret's Westminster ; as also correction according to law for such 
as will beg and live idly in this City of Westminster. Anno 1655." 

* An abridgment will he found at page 1 60 of /t;((// Uovcniiiiiiil in West- 
niiitslcr, 1889. 



322 . , TotJiill-ficlds. 

In 1826 the erection of a new prison was decided upon, 
and an Act obtained for the purpose. An adjoining site 
farther west was chosen, and eight acres of land were 
purchased for ^16,000. The designs were furnished by 
Mr. Robert Abraham, and the building which cost about 
^,'200,000, ^\•as first occupied by prisoners in June, 1834; 
soon after which the old prison was pulled down, and the 
stone bearing the above description was built into the 
garden wall. This building consisted of three distinct 
prisons, constructed alike, on Bentham's ' panopticon ' plan 
in the form of a half wheel, a shamrock leaf or an ace of 
clubs, with a series of detached wings, radiating, spoke 
fashion, from a central lodge or ' argus.' It wa.s considered 
to be one of the finest specimens of brickwork in 
the Metropolis. Seen from the outside it resembled a 
substantial fortress ; in the inside a lodge stood midwa.y in 
each of the three sides of the spacious turfed and planted 
court-yard. The entrance porch in Francis-street was 
formed of massive granite blocks, iron gate, portcullis, &c. 
In front was the governor's house, over which was built the 
chapel, these forming a keep-like appearance. The prison 
held upwards of 800 inmates ; the only labour emplo}'ed 
was oakum-picking and the treadmill — 

" Compared with thee, 
What are the labours of tliat jumping sect, 
Which feeble laws conni\c at rather than respect I 
Thqu dost not bump, 
Or jump, 

But ivalk men into virtue ; betwixt crime 
And slow repentance giving Ijreathing-time, 
And leisure to be good ; 
Instructing with discretion demireps 
How to direct their steps." 

Lamh. 

This fine prison was bounded by Francis-street, Morpeth- 
terrace, Ashle}^-place and Howick-place. It was dernolished 
in 1884 ; Ambrosden-avenue, Thirleby-gardens, and the 
Parcels Post office now in course of erection, occupy part 



Rcuuiauts of the prison. 323 

of the site ; and it is said that a Roman Catholic Pro- 
cathedral for Westminster is to be built on the western 
part of the site. The primitive portal of the ancient l^ride- 
well (it is no more than fi\e feet ten inches high, and three 
feet wide) has been once more re-erected at the side of the 
north-east door of the ' Guildhall,' Broad Sanctuary. A 
painted inscription on a board affixed above the stone door- 
way reads — 

Taken from tlie Ciatcway of the old Totliill Fields prison West- 
minster, Anno Domini 1836. 

Another board affixed immcdiatel)- under the stone lintel 
bears the inscription : — 

(iateway lock and key of the principal entrance to tlie old Totliill 
Fields Prison Anno 1665, 

Removed 1836. Erected here 1884. 

It remains to be .seen, however, whether these memorials 
of the public spirit of Westminster nearly three centuries 
ago, will be allowed to survive the rebuilding of the Guild- 
hall now in progress. 




324 ''Haste to the ferry! 



Chapter XI. 
THE HORSE -FERRY. 



Bring them, I pi-ay thee, with imagin'd speed 
. . . to tlie common ferry. 

Mekchant of Ve^jice. 

To Richmond, Kingston, and to Hampton Court, 
Never again shall I with finny oar 
Put from, or draw unto the faithful shore ; 
And landing here, or safely landing there, 
Make way to my beloved Westminster. 

Herrick. 

Take, O boatman, thrice thy fee ; 

Take, I give it willingly ; 

For, invisible to thee. 

Spirits twain have crossed with me. 

Um.AND. 



The legend of St. Peter and Edric the fisherman. — Famous frosts. — • 
The Ferry rates. — A Royal llight. — The Duke of Marlborough. — 
The wooden house. — Boats and boating. — Horseferry and Lambeth 
Regatta. — Westminster and Eton. — 'A famous victory.' — Byron. — A 
promise of long standing. — Lambeth bridge. — The freeing" of the 
bridges.- -The water- works. 

/'"^ENTURIES before the first London-bridge was built 
the Horse Ferry at Westminster was in existence. 
It was the only ferry ever permitted on the Thames at 
London town. Its history goes back into the mists of 
tradition. Perhaps some physical condition of the river 
banks on either side in the early times, when the river was 
not as it is now, may account for its antiquity. St. Peter 
him.self, if we are to believe good Father Ailred, Abbot of 
Ricvaux, cros.sed here when he came to Westminster to 
consecrate the new church on Thorney Island with his own 
hands. It wa.'5 in the year of our Redemption DCX, a 
dark, dreary night — so runs the legend as told by Walcott, 
Ridgway, and Dean Stanley — when the Long Ditch 
surrouncHng the island \vas swollen with exceeding great 
rain ; and the turbid Thames rolled downward rapidly, 
lieaving with mighty waves, black and gloom)^, save ^vhere 



The legend of St. Peter and the fisliervian. 325 

the lights from the old Palace momentarily flashed upon 
the tossing waters beneath. It was on a certain Sunday 
night in the reign of King Sebert, the eve of the day fixed 
by Mellitus, first Bishop of London, for the consecration of 
the original monastery. Above the wail of the hurtling 
wintry storm and the rushing stream, Edericus, a poor 
fisherman, who had been in vain casting his net from the 
shore of the island, — for the night was unpromising for his 
trade, — heard the voice of some benighted traveller calling 
aloud for a skiff to ferr)- him across safe from the wild waste 
of Lambeth marsh. ' Some pilgrim, methinks,' quoth he, 
' that hath tarried long by the way, would fain lodge with 
the holy monks ; for the morrow, they say, shall the new 
Minster be hallowed that the good King Sebert hath 
latel)' built.' so Kdric launched his boat, and found a 
venerable stranger, in foreign garb, who offered him large 
reward to ferry him across to the convent buildings on the 
little island. Arrived after much toil in safety at the bank, 
' Watch, Edric, this night,' said the traveller ; and still 
through the fitful gusts the fisher could discern a strange 
glorious light kindling up each glowing window, and hear 
pulses of most sweet chant, as hosts of angels with 
sweet odours and flaming candles ascended and de- 
scended from heaven in continual succession. And 
then one solemn voice alone spoke last in the high 
fe.sti\al within the sacred walls. The fisherman re- 
mained in his boat, .so awestruck b}' the sight, that when 
the m}'sterious visitant returned and asked for food, he was 
obliged to reply that he had caught not a single fish. Then 
the stranger revealed his name. : ' I am Peter, keeper of the 
keys of heaven. When Mellitus arrives to-morrow, tell him 
what you have .seen ; and show him the token that I, St. 
Peter, have con.secrated my o\\ n church of St. Peter, West- 
minster, and have anticipated the Bishop of London. For 
yourself, go out into the river ; you will catch a plentiful 
supply of fish, whereof the larger part shall be salmon. 

W 



326 The Horse-ferry, 

This I have granted on two conditions — first, that you 
never fish again on Sundays ; secondly, that you pay a 
tithe of them to the Abbey of Westminster.' A bright 
cloud passed before him, and Edric was alone. The next 
da}' at noon, in solemn pomp, \\ith priest and monk, and 
citizen and mighty captain. King Sebert and the Bishop 
entered the western gates. At the door they were met by 
Edric M'ith the salmon in his hand, which he presented 
' from St. Peter in a gentle manner to the Bishop.' He 
pointed out the marks of ' the twelve crosses on the church, 
the walls within and without moistened with holy water, 
the letters of the Greek alphabet written twice over dis- 
tinctly on the sand, ' the traces of the oil, and (chiefest of 
the miracles) the droppings of the angelic candles.' The 
Bishop returned from the church satisfied that the dedica- 
tion had been performed ' better and in a more saintly 
fashion than a hundred such as he could have done.' 
Henceforth, until the year 1382, eight hundred years after- 
wards,* whenever the monks of St. Peter's Abbey kept 
annual memory of that unknown visitant, a humble fisher- 
man sat high with the chiefest there — by the Prior's side 
— and offered the tithe of his net's produce at the monastery 
gate.f 

In 1269 "from St. Andrew's Tyde to Candlemas, men 
and beasts passed afoote from Lambeth to Westminster ; " 
and at Christmas, 1282, after another severe frost and snow, 
men " passed over the Thames between Westminster and 
Lambeth dr3-shod." In 1515, too, carriages passed over on 
the ice. But perhaps the most rigorous visitation of 
severe weather was at the time of P'rost P^air, in 1683-4, 
which has quite a literature of its own. 

" I'll tell you a stoiy as true as 'tis rare. 
Of a river turn'd into a Bartlemy Fair. 
Since old Christmas last, 

* Neal's Westiiiinster. 

t Dean Stanley's Mcinoriah ; Walcott's ]\Iciuoriah : Ridgway's Gon of 
Thorney Islaiitf, 



"^ frost ; a killing frostr 327 

There has bin such a frost, 

That the Thames has by half the whole nation bin crost. 

O scullers I I pity your fate of cxtrcams, 

Each landsman is now become free of the Thames.' 

John Evelyn's Diary gives us an interesting and 

minute account of this most famous and be-versed of all 

Frost Fairs : — 

1683-4, Jan. 9. ... So I went from Westminster-stairs to Lambeth, 
and dined with the Archbishop. . . After dinner and discourse with 
his Grace till evening prayers, Sir George Wheeler and I walked over 
the ice from Lambeth-stairs to the Horse-ferry. 

Jan. 24. — The frost continuing more and more severe, the Thames 
before London was still planted with booths in formal streets, all sorts 
of trades and shops furnished, and full of commodities, even to a 
printing press, where the people and ladies took a fancy to have their 
names printed, and the day and year set down when printed on the 
Thames ; this humour took so universally, that it was estimated the 
printer gained ^5 a day, for printing a line only, at sixpence a name, 
besides what he got by ballads, &c. Coaches plied from Westminster 
to the Temple, and from several other stairs to and fro, as in the 
streets, sliding with skates, a bull-baiting, horse and coach races, 
puppet-plays and interludes, cooks, tippling, and other lewd places, so 
that it seemed to be a bacchanalian triumph, or carnival on the water, 
whilst it was a severe judgment on the land, the trees not only splitting 
as if lightning-struck, but men and cattle perishing in divers places, 
and the \er)- seas so locked up with ice, that no vessels could stir out 
or come in. The fowls, fish, and birds, and all our exotic plants and 
greens, universally perishing. . . . London, l)y reason of the ex- 
cessive coolness of the air hindering the ascent of the smoke, was so 
filled with the fuliginous steam of the sea-coal, that hardly could one 
see across the streets, and this filling the lungs with its gross particles, 
exceedingly obstructed the breast, so as one could scarcely breathe. 
Here was no water to be had from the pipes and engines, nor could 
the brewers and divers other tradesmen work, and e\ery moment was 
full of disastrous accidents. 

Feb. 5. — It began to thaw, but froze again. My coach crossed from 
Lambeth to the Horse-ferry at Millbank, Westminster. The booths 
were almost all taken down, but there was first a map or landscape cut 
in copper representing all the manner of the camp, and the several 
actions, sports, and pastimes thereon, in memory of so signal a frost. 

In the autumn of 1600, the ambassadors of Morocco and 
Barbury crossed the river here, on their way to Nonsuch 
Palace, to pay a visit to Good Queen Bess. 

Severe frosts occurred in the years 1709, 17' 5-^) 
1739. ^7^7^ 1788. 181 1, and 1814. In the Crowle Poiumit 

\\ 2 



328 



The Horsc-fcrry. 



is a coarse bill, containing within a wood-cut border of rural 
subjects, " Mr. John Heaton, printed on the Thames at 
Westminster, Jan. the 7th, 1709." 

" The ice was liere, the ice was there, 

The ice was all around ; 

It cracked and growled, and roared and howled 

Like noises in a swound 1 " 

Coleridge. 

" 181 3-14, Great frost, commenced Dec. 27 with a 
thick fog, followed by two da}''s heavy fall of snow. During 
nearly four weeks' frost, the wind blew almost uninter- 
ruptedly from the north aird north-east, and the cold was 
intense. The river was covered with vast heaps of floating 
ice, bearing piles of snow, which (Jan. 26-29), were floated 
down, filling the space between London and Blackfriars 
Bridges ; next day the frost re-commenced, and lasted to 
Feb. 5, uniting the whole into a sheet of ice. Jan. 30, 
persons walked over it ; and Feb. i, the unemployed water- 
men commenced their ice-toll, by which many of them 
received 6£ per day. The Frost Fair now commenced ; 
The street of tents called the City-road, put forth its gay 
flags, inviting signs, and music and dancing : a sheep was 
roasted whole before sixpenny spectators, and the 'Lapland 
mutton ' sold at a shilling a slice ! Printing presses were 
set up, and among other records was printed the following : — 



FROST FAIR. 

Amidst the Arts which on Jhc Thames appear, 
To Tell the wonders of this icy )'ear. 
Printing- claims prior place, which at one view- 
Erects a monument of That and You. 
Printed on the River Thames, February 4, in the 

54th year of the reign of King' George III. Aiino 

Domini, 1 8 14. 



One of the invitations ran tiius : — 

You that walk here, and do design to tell 
"Your children's children what this year befell, 
Come by this print, and then it will be seen 
That such a year as this hath seldom been."* 



Curiosities of London, 



The tolls in lyoS. 329 

Mr. John Lettsom Elliott, one of the few survivors of 
that memorable period, dcli^^^hts to narrate his personal 
recollections of the river under this frost, as he saw it from 
the Westminster shore. 

Hatton, in his New View of London (1708) mentions the 
" Ferry over from Westminster to Lambeth and the con- 
trary for l^asseni^ers. Horses, Coaches, &c., daily"; and 
gives the rates then paid : — 

For a man and horse ... ... ... 2 

For horse and chaze ... ... ... 10 

For a coach and 2 horses ' ... ... 16 

For a coach and 4 ... ... 20 

For a coach and 6 ... ... 26 

For a cart loaden ... ... ... 26 

For a cart or waggon, each ... ... 20 

The proprietors are Mr. Cole and 2 or 3 others. 

In the curious London Directory of lO'j'j (republished 

1878 by Messrs. Chatto and Windus) we find the names of 

Mr. Clark, by the Horse F"erry, Westminster. 
Mr. Dawes, Horse Ferry, Westminster. 
Mr. Norder, the Horse Ferry, Westminster. 

— evidence of the impcjrtance of the ])lace even at that early 
date. 

Here, on the 9th of December. 1688, Mary of Modena, 
the ill-starred Consort of James H., having quitted Whitehall 
for the last time under the charge of Antonine, Count of 
Lauzun (a brave French nobleman, to whom alone, of all 
his courtiers, the King thought he could entrust his Queen 
and little son), stepped into the boat that was to con\c\- 
her across the river to Lambeth. Lord Macaula\- has 
graphically described the momentous event: — 

" Lauzun eagerly accepted the high trust w hich was offered 
to him. The arrangements for the flight were promptly 
made ; a ves.sel was ordered to be in readiness at Graves- 
end ; but to reach Gravesend was not ea.sy. The cit\- was 
in a state of extreme agitation. \o foreigner could appear 
in the streets without risk of being stopped, ciuestioned and 
carried before a magistrate as a Jesuit in disguise. It was 



^^0 The Horse-ferry, 

therefore, necessary to take the road on the south of the 
Thames. No precaution which Could quiet suspicion was 
omitted. The King and Queen retired to rest as usual. 
When the palace had been some time profoundly quiet, 
James rose and called a servant who was in attendance. 
' You will find,' said the King, ' a man at the door of the 
ante-chamber ; bring him hither.' The servant obeyed, 
and Lauzun was ushered into the royal bed-chamber. ' I 
confide to you,' said James, ' my Queen and my 
son ; everything must be risked to carry them into 
France.' Lauzun, with a truly chivalrous spirit, 
returned thanks for the dangerous honour which had 
been conferred on him, and begged permission to avail 
himself of his friend Saint Victor, a gentleman of Provence, 
whose courage and faith had been often tried. The services 
of so valuable an assistant were readily accepted. Lauzun 
gave his hand to Mary. Saint Victor wrapped up in his 
warm cloak the ill-fated heir of so many kings. The party 
stole down the back-stairs and embarked in an open skiff. 
It was a miserable voyage. The night was bleak : the 
rain fell ; the wind roared ; the water was rough ; at length 
the boat reached Lambeth, and the fugitives landed near an 
inn, where a coach and horses were in waiting. Some time 
elapsed before the horses could be harnessed. Mary, afraid 
that her face might be known, would not enter the house 
She remained with her child, cowering for shelter from the 
storm, under the tower of Lambeth Church, and distracted 
by terror whenever the ostler approached her with his 
lantern. Two of her women attended her, one who gave 
suck to the Prince, and one whose office was to rock the 
cradle ; but they could be of little use to their mistress, for 
both were foreigners who could hardly speak the P^nglish 
language, and shuddered at the rigour of the linglish 
climate. The only consolator)^ circumstance was that the 
little boy was well, and uttered not a single cry. At length 
the coach was ready. Saint Victor followed it on horse- 



Macaulay''s account of the fiight of James II. 33 1 

back. The fugitives reached Gravesend safel)', and em- 
barked in the }'acht whicli waited for them. . . . The 
yacht proceeded down the ri\er with a fair wind ; and 
Saint Victor, having .seen her under sail, spurred back with 
the joyful news to VMiitehall." 

M. de I>auzun himself tells us, in his account of the 
Queen's escape, that, in order "to pre\ent suspicion, I had 
accustomed the boatmen to row me across the river of a 
night, under pretence of a shooting expedition, taking cold 
provisions and a rifle with me to give it a better colour." 
The next da}' the caitiff king determined to follow. 

" The Lord Mayor and Sheriffs of London were sum- 
moned to attend the King. He exhorted them to perform 
their duties vigorousl)-, and owned that he had thought it 
expedient to send his wife and child out of the countr\', but 
assured them that he would himself remain at his post. 
While he uttered this unkingiy and unmanly falsehood, 
his fixed [)in'[)osc was to depart before daxbreak. Already 
he had entrusted his nuxst valuable moveables to the care of 
several foreign Ambassadors, llis most important papers 
had been deposited with the Tuscan minister. But before 
his flight there was still something to be done. The t\rant 
plea.sed himself with the th(night that he might avenge 
himself on a people who had been impatient of his 
despotism, by inflicting on them at parting all the ex'ils of 
anarch)'. lie ordered the (ireat Seal and the w rits for the 
new Parliament to be brought to his apartment. The 
writs he threw into the fire. Some which had been alread}- 
sent out he annulled by an instrument drawn up in legal 
form. To Faversham he wrote a letter which could be 
understood only as a command to disband the arm)-. Still, 
however, he concealed, even from his chief ministers, his 
intention of ab.sconding. Just before he retired he directed 
Jeffreys to be in the clo.set earl)- on the mornnv, and while 
stepping into bed, whispered to Mulgrave that the news 
from Hungerford was highly satisfactor)-. l'Aer)-body 



^^2 The Hofsc-fcny. 

withdrew except the Duke of Northumberland. This 
young man, a natural son of Charles the Second by the 
Duchess of Cleveland, commanded a troop of Life Guards, 
and was a Lord of the Bedchamber. It seems to have been 
then the custom of the court that, in the Queen's absence, 
a Lord of the Bedchamber should sleep on a pallet in the 
King's room ; and it was Northumberland's turn to perform 
this duty. 

" At three in the morning of Tuesday, the eleventh of 
December, James rose, took the Great Seal in his hand, laid 
hiscommandson Northumberland not to open the door of the 
bedchamber till the usual hour, and disappeared through a 
secret passage. . . Sir Edward Hales was in attendance 
with a hackney coach. James was conveyed to Millbank, 
where he crossed the Thames in a small wherry. As he 
passed Lambeth he flung the Great Seal into the midst of 
the stream, where, after many months, it was accidently 
caught by a fishing net and dragged up. 

" At Vauxhall he landed. A carriage and horses had 
been stationed there for him ; and he immediately took 
the road towards Sheerness, where a hoy belonging to the 
Custom House had been ordered to await his arrival. 

"Northumberland strictly obeyed the injunction which had 
been laid on him, and did not open the door of the royal 
apartment till it was broad day. The antechamber was 
full of courtiers who came to make their morning bow, and 
with Lords who had been summoned to Council. The 
news of James's flight passed in an instant from the 
galleries to the streets ; and the whole capital was in 
commotion." 

Old and New Lo?idon makes mention of a curious print 
of the time representing the boat in which the Queen 
effected her escape as in no little danger, and the two gentle- 
men as assisting the rowers, who are labouring against wind 
and tide. " The Queen herself is .seated by the steersman, 
enveloped in a large cloak, with a hood drawn over her 



A lucky ferry ))id)i. ^^^ 

head : her attitude is expressive of melancholy ; and she 
appears most anxious to conceal the little prince, who is 
asleep on her bosom, partially shrouded amon<j the ample 
folds of her drapery. The other two females betray alarm 
The engraving is rudely executed and printed on coarse 
paper ; but the design is not without merit, being bold and 
original in its conception and full of expression. It was 
probably intended as an appeal to the sympathies of the 
humbler classes on behalf of the royal fugitives." 

Very early one morning, in the days when Queen Anne 
' reigned, but did not rule,' while the watermen were dream- 
ing of fares when they should have been by the water-side, 
His Grace the Duke of Marlborough came up and desired 
to cross with his hounds. By good fortune, one Wharton 
chanced to be at hand ; and the Duke rewarded him by 
obtaining a grant of the " Ferry-hou.se " for him. Walcott, 
who relates the incident, states that the owner at the time 
of writing his Memorials (1849) was a descendant of the 
lucky ferryman. 

On the opening of Westminster Bridge, the feriy, .says 
Walcott, " was suppressed." No doubt the traffic became 
sadly diminished, but, as we learn from a work styled 
Select Vieivs of London and its Environs'^' published in 
1805, the ferry was still in use in the early part of the 
present century. Indeed, says Old and Neiv London, it 
may be said to have continued more or less as a ferr}' down 
to the building of Lambeth Bridge in 1862. The Arch- 
bishop of Canterbury, who.se property the ferry was, and who 
lea.sed it out at a yearly rent of ;^20, received on the 
opening of Westminster bridge ;^3,000 compensation, which 
was funded in his name. The last person of importance 
who cros.sed at the Hor.se-ferry is generally supposed to 
have been the mother of George III., Princess .Augusta of 
Saxe-Gotha, on 27th .April, 1736, on her wa}- to be married 
to Frederick, Prince of Wale.s. A wooden hou.se, Walcott 
tells us, was built here for a small guard which was posted 



TJic Horse-ferry. 




i 



Si; ^ 



^ ."i < 









Obstructions by boatbuilders. 335 

clurin<j the troublous times of " the Usurpation." An 

engraving of the Horse-ferry about 1800, in Old and New 

London, shows this ancient wooden structure, which was in 

existence so recently as 1850, for Dickens makes mentions 

of it in David Copperjield, " There was, and is when I 

write, at the end of that low-lying street, a dilapidated little 

wooden building, probably an obsolete old ferry-house. Its 

position is just at that point where the street ceases, and 

the road begins to lie between a row of houses and the 

river." 

The Horse Ferry and Millbank were at one time a 

great rendezvous for the pastime of boating, of which the 

scholars of Westminster School were especially fond. A 

plate by Mr. T. H. Shepherd in Jones's Views in London*, 

(1829) shows pleasure boats and boat-houses scattered 

along the bank and beneath the willows, where any who 

would might have hired a boat for a quiet pull on the then 

pleasant water. In fact the boatbuilders here were, judging 

from the following " notice," the cause of serious obstruction 

on the highway flanking the Thames : — 

(ireat complaints having" been made by the Inliabitants of Milll)ank 
and streets adjacent of a Nuisance or Annoyance occasioned by your 
placing Boats or other Vessels on the Public footway on Millbank and 
suffering the same to remain there a considerable time as also of your 
working on such Boats or Vessels while on the public footway afore- 
said which occasions great inconvenience and danger to the foot- 
passengers passing that way ; I am ordered by the Church Wardens 
and Vestry of the Parish of S'- John the Evang^' Wcstm"" to give you 
Notice, and I do hereby give you Notice to remove or cause to be re- 
moved all such Boats or other Vessels from off the public footway on 
Millbank and to discontinue such Nuisances or Annoyances in future. 
Dated the 9'h day of July, 1812. 

JOHN DANIEL, 

. Vestry Clerk. 
John Sui.i.ivan, "1 

William Hatton, „ ,, ., , ,,.,,, , 

' r Boatbuilders, Milll5ank. 

JosKPH Royal, 

JON.\THAN Sawyer, J 



* Mdropolilan I>nproz>eniiuts, or I.oiiJon in //>' S'lnri,-, nth ( '.iitiiry. 
jHiblished l)y Jones ^i Co., 1S27-9. 



^^6 TJie Horsc-fcrry, 

The first Regatta ever witnessed in England, Walcott 
tells us,* was rowed from Westminster Bridge to Ranelagh- 
gardens, on June 20th, 1775. It seems strange to read of 
the " Horseferry and Vauxhall Regatta " which used to 
take place annually here within living memory. So 
recently as in 1840 — we read in Colburn's Calendar 
of Amusements — " the arrangements made by the 
parochial authorities and others of the parish of St. John's, 
in getting up this regatta, are deserving of every encomium. 
The prizes, which bring into competition the watermen of 
Vauxhall and Westminster Horseferry, are really worth 
contending for — ^viz. : two excellent wherries, and various 
sums of money. A steamer is engaged for the accommoda- 
tion of the subscribers." In 77/^ iVi?zt'j-, of the 8th August, 
1812, the following interesting item is met with : — 

" Vauxhall. On Wednesday, the Prize Wherry given by the Fro- 
prietor of these Gardens, was rowed for on the Thames by seven 
competitors. The race was attended by hundreds of boats filled with 
parties of ladies and gentlemen, the gaiety of whose appearance, con- 
trasted with the dingy hue of coal keaTcrs, S7i'cc/>s, and their belles^ \\ho 
filled other boats and barges, had the most ludicrous effect. After a 
hard and sinewy contest the prize was obtained by a man of the name 
of Job Jones, to whom Mr. Simson, the manager of the Gardens, de- 
li\ered the boat with an appropriate speech. In the evening this de- 
lightful place was crowded to excess with beaut)' and fashion." 

With the scholars of Westminster School aquatics were, 
in point of fact, a matter of compulsion : at the commence- 
ment of the rowing season at the Ides of March, every new 
boy was ordered on the water, nolens volens. The earliest 
public aquatic performance of which there is any record 
took place in 1818, when a Westminster six-oared boat 
beat a six, manned by gentlemen of the Temple, in a race 
from Johnson's Dock to Westminster Bridge, by half a 
length. In 1825, a Westminster eight-oar (TJie Challenge) 
rowed from the Horse-ferry to Eton and back again — the 
whole distance being about 86 miles — in twenty-(jne hours, 
delays in locks and stoppages for refreshment occupying 
* Appendix to " Mcinoriah" p. 339. 



Aquatic sports. 337 

seven. Ihc}- started from the Ferry on the 23rd ;\.pril, at 
3.4 a.m., and went through Windsor-bridge at two o'clock 
in the afternoon. Having seen Eton, they returned to 
Staines (where they had kmched going down), dined, and 
arrived at the Horse-ferry again about mid-night. For 
" full and complete accounts " of the annual contests 
between Westminster and Eton, the reader must turn to 
the lively pages of Belt's Life. The first match was rowed on 
Jul)- 27, 1829, and the last on July 28, 1864. Needless to 
sa\', man}' a celebrated oarsman received his education at 
Westminster School. The stretch of water off Millbank, 
from Westminster to the Red Hou.se (a hostelry standing 
just where the L. B. and S. C. Railway bridge now cros.ses 
the Thamcs),or the Old Swan, by Battersea Bridge, being the 
usual destination. " To vary the monotony of always rowing 
merel}' for rowings' sake," — relates the author of Westminster 
Sc/iooi, Past and Present — " scratch matches were occa- 
sionall)' got up. The.se races were sometimes pair-oar and 
sometimes four-oar; the course, either from Westminster- 
bridge to Battersea-bridgc,or from Vauxhall-bridge to Batter- 
sea-bridge. . . . But all the rowing had one common aim, 
and that was to render the crew of our first eight the most 
effective possible." Mr. F. H. Forshall \ery full}' describes 
the race of 1845, and the trials and privations of 
training for it. The course was from Barker's-rails to 
Putney-bridge, longer by a mile than that rowed by the 
Universities in their annual contest. The pink oars of 
Westminster won that }-ear, the Eton boat being so far 
astern that it could not easily be distinguished, amidst the 
press and crowd of craft on the river. The excitement in 
Westminster was intense : — 

Size and weight, so much talked of in tlicsc days as the University 
comes round, had been powerless to avert a crushing defeat. The race 
was won by one minute and five seconds, or about sixty boats' lengths. 
Then down the river, amidst fresh bursts of cheering from shore and 
boats, quickly and hghtly wc went along till we reached the landing 
pla(e at the Horse Ferry. Up College Street we streamed with a 



338 The Horse-ferry. 

crowd of navvies and bargees as an escort, who made a tremendous 
noise, in view of the sixpences to be obtained, and the pots of porter 
to be drunk at our expense. Presently the stroke of the victorious 
Eight was hoisted on the shoulders of several big boys and carried 
round and round Dean's Yard, amidst deafening cheers which became 
hoarser and hoarser. Indeed, to some of the boys might be applied 
Virgil's description of the ghosts, who vainly tried to raise their war- 
cry in the presence of ^neas, but only produced the faintest squeak : 
" Inceptus clamor frustratur hiantes." Their voices were entirely 
gone. Talk of triumphs up the Capitoline Hill I What Westminster 
boy on that night would have exchanged places with the greatest hero 
of ancient or modern times ? True but nine contributed to the victor)', 
but we were one in heart, and the whole body rejoiced with its 
members. 

On Auc^ust 1 1, 1807, Lord Byron''' succeeded in swimming 
from Lambeth over against the ferry through Westminster 
and Blackfriars-bridges. 

The first boat propelled by steam power made its 
appearance on the Thames, and passed the ferry in 18 16. 

The ferry was the property of the Archbishop of 
Canterbury from time immemorial. It was in order to 
avoid the many accidents which were continually happening, 
by reason of the multitude of carriages and horses 
passing and repassing by the ferry, at all times and 
.seasons, that, in 1734, several public-.spirited gentlemen 
and noblemen, with the countenance of the Archbishop, 
raised among themselves the necessary funds to meet 
the expenses of plans and surveys, and presented a petition 
to the House of Commons in February, 1735, "to have a 
bridge erected at the Horse Ferry, or at such other place as 
the House should think fit." In 1736 and 1737 Acts were 
passed for building a bridge " at the Horse Ferry, or at any 
other place in the parish of St. Margaret or of St. John, 
Westminster." The money was raised partly by lotteries 
and partly by Parliamentary grants, and Westminster- 
bridge — the famous bridge of M. Labelye — was built at a 
site fixed, after great contention, at or near the old Wool- 
staple. 

* The poet's remains, it may be mentioned, lay in state at 25, Gt. George- 
street (now the Institution of Civil Engineers) on the 9th and loth June, 1824. 



Proposed bridge at the site of the ferry. 339 

The effort to obtain the construction of the bridge on 
the site of the ferry having failed, " the Vestrymen, free- 
holders and principal inhabitants" of the parish endeavoured 
to obtain a widening and impro\cment of the approaches 
to the new bridge. The facts recited in their petition, wln'ch 
was adopted on i8th May, 1738, are interesting : — 

To the Right Hoiioiirahlc and Honourable the Lords 
ajid others Commissioners for Imilding a Bridge at 
VI 'estminster. 

The Humble Petition of the Principal f^-ccholdcrs and Inhabitants 

of the Parish of St. John the Evangelist. 
Shcweth — 

That your petitioners labour under very unhappy Circum- 
stances with Regard to their Situation having no Communication 
with the other parts of the City and Liberty of Westminster but 
by such narrow and incon\enient Ways and Passages as render 
all Access to them very Difficult deprive them of the Advantages 
they might otherwise enjoy of Trade and Commerce and are as 
they conceive the Occasion that so many of their houses arc unin- 
habited. 

That your petitioners once flatter'd themselves with the hopes 
of ha\ing a Bridge at the Horse P^erry which \\ould in a great 
Measure have remedied this inconvenience. But 

That as the Wisdom of Parliament has now determined 
otherwise they alone remain excluded from all benefit that can 
accrue from the intended Bridge and have no prospect left of ever 
recovering themselves but by a more open Communication from 
the said Bridge into their Parish. This your Petitioners humbly 
conceive may be done in the most effectual Manner and at the 
least Expense by opening a broad Way from Old Pallace \'ard to 
College Street at the place where Lindsey House and the Old 
Houses leading to the said Pallace on both sides of the Way now 
stand which likewise would be of great Use in parliament Time to 
His Majesty and the Members of both Houses who are now 
greatly strcightcncd for Want of Room for their Coaches. 

Your petitioners therefore most humbly hope that 
this Honourable Commission will take their Case 
into Consideration and grant them such Relief as 
i'n their Wisdom they shall judge most convenient. 
And your Petitioners, vS:c. 

The above petition is worth quoting in cxtcnso inasmuch 
as it shows indisputably that Sir Samuel Brown's .scheme, 
which was first propounded in 1830, was simply a revival 



340 The Hoise -ferry. 

of what had been mooted a century previously. Moreover, 
the petition furnishes the reasons which eventually led up 
to the abolition of Lindsey or Dirt}'-lane, and the formation 
of the present Abingdon-street. 

Charles Knight in his Cyclopaedia of Londoii (1833) makes 
reference, in speaking of the Horse-ferry, to a "proposal for 
another metropolitan bridge, to extend from the Horse- 
ferry to Lambeth stairs, beside the gateway of Lambeth 
Palace. It was to be called the Ro)'al Clarence Bridge, 
and a Bill was brought into Parliament. But there the 
matter seems to have stopped, and is likely to remain ; so 
we must content ourselves, if we desire to cross the Thanies 
here, with the same mode of conveyance which prevailed 
so far back as the seventh century." He goes on to 
say, " Tho.se who ma)' have occasion to cross the river by a 
wherry from the stairs at the foot of the fine old gateway 
of Lambeth Palace to Millbank on the opposite side, are 
landed on a shelving slope directly opposite the end of 
Market-street, and a little southward of the church of St. 
John the Evangelist. At the top of the slope stands a 
little wooden house ; that is the old ferry house. Directly 
opposite, some hundred }'ards or so from Lambeth Palace, 
is an opening to an obscure street, still known as Ferry- 
street ; and one, if not both, of the houses, which then 
formed considerable inns, still stand there, where travellers 
were accustomed to wait for the return of the boat, or for 
better weather than prevailed at the moment of their 
arrival, or to stay all night and sleep there if the day were 
far spent, and them.selves somewhat timid. How primitive 
all this seems ! One can hardly be satisfied that we are 
really speaking of the Thames at Westminster, and a time 
so little removed." 

It is singular to trace how the scheme for the oft-promised 
bridge at this spot hung fire, until the hope so long deferred 
must have made the local Vestry almost despair of ever seeing 
it realised. In 1830 the Vestry considered an application 



A cheap bridge. 341 

from the promoters for the building of a new bridge, but that 
body submitted " no facts to warrant the Vestry to express 
any opinion." The project took some definite and tangible 
shape in 1844, when SirSamuel'Brown,* the first constructor 
of bridges on the principle of suspension, attended upon 
the Vestry with plans and models of a proposed suspension 
bridge, " to be erected on three equal arches extending 
from Market-street, Westminster, to Church-street, Lam- 
beth," which were cordially approved of by the Vestry. 
Sir S. Brown died in 1852, and we hear nothing further of 
the matter till 1 861, when a company composed of a small 
body of noblemen and gentlemen was formed to carry out 
the long-promised bridge at their own expense, trusting to 
its usefulness as shown by the tolls, to reimburse them for 
their outlay. For once in the history of bridge-building 
across the Thames, no opposition was offered to the project, 
a phenomenon to be accounted for by the fact that whereas 
the other bridges built across the Thames had proved 
to be financial failures, by reason of their initial costli- 
ness, Mr. Peter William Barlow, the engineer, undertook 
that this new structure should be completed from shore 
to shore for ;^30,ooo. This estimate for a foot and 
carriage traffic bridge was regarded by the engineering 
world at the time as almost ridiculous. The cheapest 
bridge ever built across the river had not cost less than £^^ 
per superficial foot — the majority had cost nearly £\o — but 
here was an offer to build one at less than a pound a foot ! 
Nevertheless, the bridge was built at a cost (including 
land, &c.) of less than ^^"40,000. 

The new bridge was opened on Monday afternoon, loth 
November, 1862, at 3 o'clock, and was made free to the 
public for the first week by the generosity of the company 



*Capt. R.N. and civil engineer 1776-1852; experiments made l>y him 
eventually led to the introduction of chain cables in the navy ; 1817, patented 
his invention of chain bridges ; constructed chain pier at Brighton, iJ)23, 
Hammersmith-bridge, &c. 

X 



342 The Horse-ferry. 

as a sort of commemoration of the birth-day of the Prince 
of Wales. The tolls were i^d. for each person, and 2d. for 
each horse. This bridge has a total length of 1,040 ft., and 
a length between the abutments on the shore at either side 
of 828 ft. Its extreme width is 32 ft., which is divided into 

20 ft. for roadway and 6 ft. for each of the footpaths, and 
its total height above high water mark is 21 ft. The rise 
or curve of the structure is i in 22 ft. on the bridge itself, 
and I in 20 ft. on the approaches. For such a steep rise 
the bridge itself should have given a greater headway than 

21 ft. ; but this would have involved an outlay in raising 
the approaches on either side, far beyond the moderate es- 
timate. The suspension ropes are taken over four pairs of 
towers, two at either end resting on abutments of solid 
masonry, and two upon circular iron piers, 12 ft. in diameter, 
sunk 1 8 ft. below the river-bed. Over these towers the ropes 
— which were made by Newall & Co. on the works of the 
bridge itself of the best charcoal-iron wire — are carried, 
sustaining the bridge beneath in three spans of 280 ft. in 
length each. The anchorage in which all are finally secured 
is, on the Lambeth shore, where the ground is good, formed 
by massive iron holdfasts built into a sold masonry of concrete 
20 ft. below the surface ; and on the Westminster side, where 
the ground was little better than loose peat, the anchorage is 
made by a series of 1 2 square cast-iron caissons, each weigh- 
ing seven tons, sunk into the gravel, and filled with concrete, 
so as to form one immense compact bed of iron and con- 
crete 20ft. below the surface. The platform of the bridge 
is hung from the cables by rigid lattice bars, and the 
novelty of the bridge consists in placing under it on each 
side a longitudinal tubular iron girder, with a cross girder 
between, so as to reduce to a minimum the upward, 
downward, and lateral movement. The footways on 
each side are carried on cantilevers projecting from 
beneath the roadway. Everything being made to do some 
duty in this singular bridge, the parapets of the footpaths 



" What, need the bridge much broader ? " 343 

are formed of wrought iron lattice work, which in itself 
gives rigidity to the otherwise light paths. The roadway 
was paved with ' blocks of wood,' and the paving of the 
footways was formed of Portland stone from old West- 
minster-bridge, cut into neat thin slabs. The prevailing 
idea throughout the construction of the bridge was economy, 
so that to call it the ugliest and least convenient across the 
Thames is no disparagement of the architect. The 
company let the tolls for the first three years at 
the rate of ten per cent, upon the capital. The Times 
of the nth November, 1862, commenting on the opening 
of the bridge, made the following apposite, if sanguine 
remarks : " Before Christmas next it is likely to be as 
much a recognised route for through communication 
as any of the bridges over the Thames, and, like all realised 
improvements, people will wonder how it was that they did 
so long without it. It is certainly not for the want of 
suggestions, practical or otherwise, that a bridge, or even 
bridges, have not been built here more than a century ago. 
Probably no part of the river has been more favoured by 
projectors than this locality, and not a few of the old maps 
of London are still to be found marked with the route of 
.an intended bridge stretching from Lambeth Palace to the 
line of the Horseferry-road, Westminster. It most likely 
was the difficulties and delays of the old horse ferry at this 
spot that has promoted the idea which for years and years 
gone by was an architectural myth, only laid at rest by the 
completion of the ponderous structure at Westminster, now 
so beautifully replaced by the graceful lines and noble 
proportions of Mr. Page's new bridge. But when old 
Westminster fell into that chronic dilapidation and decay 
which made it at once an eye-.sorc and a danger, the notion of 
Lambeth-bridge again arose, all the fresher, apparently, 
from the long oblivion to which preceding schemes had 
been consigned." 

There would seem to be little (\o\\h\. prima facie, that the 

X 2 



344 ' TJie Horse-ferry. 

bridge is practically that of Sir Samuel Brown, adapted and 
modified by the engineer who actually carried out the 
scheme. Mr. Peter William Barlow was the eldest son of 
Professor Barlow, the mathematician. In 1858 he inves- 
tigated in great detail the construction of bridges of large 
span, especially with regard to stiffening the roadways of 
suspension bridges, and his valuable deductions were subse- 
quently confirmed by Professor Rankine. In pursuance of 
these studies Mr. Barlow went to Niagara, in order to 
examine personally the great railway and road bridge 
erected there by Roebling, and on his return a company 
was formed for constructing a bridge across the Thames at 
Lambeth, of which he was appointed engineer. In this 
work he introduced diagonal struts in connection with the 
vertical ties by which the roadway is suspended, whereby 
a degree of stiffness was obtained nearly equal to that 
of girders of like span, and sufficient to enable large gas 
mains to be laid across the bridge without any leakage. 
During its construction, the process of sinking, or forcing 
into the clay, the cast-iron cylinders which form the piers, 
suggested to the engineer the idea that such cylinders 
could with facility be driven horizontally, and that tunnels 
could be made under rivers by this means in suitable soils. 
The Tower Subway was constructed in demonstration of 
the idea, which has since led to the formation of many 
similar works. Mr. Barlow died 19th May, 1885. At the 
time of his death he was the oldest member of the Institu- 
tion of Civil Engineers.* 

Lambeth and Vauxhall bridges were acquired by the 
late Metropolitan Board of Works in 1879 under the pro- 
visions of the Metropolis Toll Bridges Act, 1877. For 
Lambeth bridge the owners claimed ;^ 100,000, and the 
amount awarded by the arbitrator was ^^36,049 ; for Vaux- 
hall bridge, the owners of which claimed ^395,228, the 
arbitrator's award was ^255,230. From the last report of 

* Proceedings, Vol, 81, p. 321, 



" Welcome, princes all." 345 

the late Metropolitan Board of Works wc learn that the 
arrangements for the conveyance of these bridges, together 
with the Chelsea bridge, the Albert Suspension bridge, and 
Battersea bridge, were all concluded in May, 1879, where- 
upon " it was thought that a suitable day for abolishing 
tolls and opening the bridges free to the public would be 
the anniversary of her Majesty's birthday on the 24th of 
that month. It was also thought that it would be well to 
signalise by some public ceremony an ev'ent of so much 
interest to many of the inhabitants of London. Their Royal 
Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales were accord- 
ingly asked to give the sanction of their presence to the 
proceedings, and to make the public declaration that the 
bridges were thenceforth dedicated to the free use of the 
people. To this their Royal Highnesses graciously con- 
sented. The inhabitants and the local authorities of the 
districts within whose limits the bridges were situated, did 
all in their power, by decorating the thoroughfares, and by 
assembling in large numbers along the line of the proces- 
sion, to give the Prince and Princess — who were accompanied 
by their two sons, by the Duke and Duchess of Kdinburgh, 
and by the Crown Prince of Denmark — a hearty reception, 
and to show the pleasure which they felt at the kindness 
and interest manifested by their Royal Highnesses in taking 
part in the proceedings." The Times, of May 26, 1879, 
relates that the last toll was taken at 2.30 p.m., when the 
traffic over Lambeth bridge was suspended. The royal 
party (who had come from Pall Mall down Abingdon- 
street and Millbank-street, receiving a most warm welcome) 
crossed the bridge, at the southern end of which the address 
of the Metropolitan Board to their Royal Highnesses was 
duly read and responded to, when the Prince formally 
declared the bridge " open free for ever." The procession 
then continued its way along the Albert-embankment to 
the southern end of Vauxhall-bridge, where the Trustees 
handed the keys of the gates to Sir J. McGarcl Hogg, and 



346 TJie Horse-ferry. 

the bridge was declared free for ever. The procession, cross- 
ing the bridge, passed along Grosvenor-road towards the 
Chelsea Suspension-bridge on its mission of emancipation — 

" Which when the people 
Had the full view of, such a noise arose 
As the shrouds make at sea in a stiff tempest 
As loud, and to as many tunes." 

King Henry VIII. 

The Metropolitan Board of Works in their last year of 
office (1887) found it necessary to strengthen the abutments 
and anchorages of the structure, in consequence of the 
increased traffic, and placed iron gates at each end, so that 
it might be closed in case of anything occurring which 
would be likely to cause a dangerous overcrowding upon 
it. Two men were also appointed by the Board so that the 
bridge might be watched continuously both day and night. 
The London County Council now (1892) contemplate its 
reconstruction. Its extreme narrowness, its bad and steep 
approaches, and its weaknes.s — only a limited number of 
vehicles are allowed to cross at a walking pace at one time 
• — make it wholly inadequate for present-day requirements, 
and it may be safely anticipated that in a very few years 
time the present bridge will be replaced by a structure 
more worthy in every way of the historic site and the public 
needs. 

The author of Londiniuin Rediviviim (1807), tells us 
that there were " water- works near the Horse-ferry, noiv the 
site of Westminster Bridge* for the supply of that part of 
Westminster." Hatton, the antiquary, gives (1708) some 
interesting particulars of these water-works : — 

Mill Bank Water : this is raised and laid into houses in the parish 
of St. Margarets Westminster from the Thames. The Water House 
is situated on the East side of Mill Bank, for which the proprietors, who 
are in number 5, had a patent granted them by K. Charles II. about 
the year 1673. Their stock and income is divided into 8 shares. The 

* Londiniuni Redivivutii, hy J. Malcolm, p. 170, published 1807. Mr. 
Malcolm evidently thought that the Horse Ferry was to have been the 
chosen site for " Westminster-bridge." 



The Water-works. 347 

officers they have are a Manager, Collector, two horse-keepers, a turn- 
cock, a pavior, and a plumber. Rates at least are los. per Annum, 
but commonly 20s. and for Brewers and extraordinary occasions, more 
than so many pounds. 

The right was .sold in 1726 for fifteen yeans to the 
Company of Chelsea Water-works for ;^400 per annum. 
Strype's and Seymour's Surveys both mention this 
' Waterhouse.' The Chelsea Water Works Company were 
established in 1722, and originally drew their supplies from 
the ponds in St. James's and Hyde-park.s. In 1842 the 
Company applied separate works to the supply of the 
ornamental waters in Hyde-park, St. James's-park, and 
Buckingham-palace-gardens, and for watering the streets 
and roads in their district, thereby relieving the serious 
draughts made upon their filtered water for those purposes, 
and at the same time maintaining a constant circulation in 
the ornamental waters which would otherwise have been 
unhealthy stagnant pools. The Company's reservoirs were 
afterwards converted into the Grosvenor Canal, with its 
wharves and basin. 




34^^ TJie old Abbey water-mill. 



Chapter XII. 
M I L L B A N K. 



MILLBANK PRISON, VAUXHALL BRIDGE, 
AND THE NEAT-HOUSES. 



" Not many weeks ago it was not so, 
But Pleasures had their passage to and fro, 
Which way soever from our dates I went, 
I lately did behold with much content, 
The Fields bestrew'd with people all about ; 
Some paceing homeward and some passing out ; 
.Some by the Bancks of Thame their pleasure taking. 
Some Sulli-bibs among the milk-maids making ; 
With musique some upon the waters rowing ; 
Some to the adjoining Hamlets going." 

Britain's Rctueittbrancer. 

' Hath he borr.e himself penitently in prison ? How seems he to be touched 'i " 

Measure for Measure.' 



The old Water Mill.— The Mill Bank.— Tidal Inundations.— Dangers 
of Millbank. — An aristocratic neighbourhood. — Peterborough House. 
A 'Joe Miller.' — The Dutch picturesqueness of Millbank. — Annual 
procession of coaches. — The distilleries. — First formation of wharves, 
and roadway opposite prison. — Dickens' description of Millbank. — 
The Penitentiary. — Jeremy Bentham's scheme. — The Prison's his- 
tory. — The Chartist rising.— Ponsonby-terrace. — Vauxhall Wharf — 
Vauxhall-gardens. — Vauxhall Bridge. — The ' Neat Houses.' — Puss 
in a Parachute. 



IP VERY antiquary who has touched upon the matter is 
apparently agreed that the name of Mill Bank is 
derived from the old Abbey water-mill, built by the Abbot 
Nicholas Littlington (1362- 1386) at the end of the present 
Great College-street, and turned by the stream which flowed 
down College-street by the Infirmary garden wall — ' the 
dead wall,' as it was called — eastward into the Thames. 
The Abbot's Mill stood on the farther bank of the brook, 
called the Mill Ditch, which, says Dean Stanley, was crossed 



A JiigJi-xvrougJit flood. 349 

by a bridge, still existing, though deep beneath the present 
pavement, at the east end of College-street* The Abbots 
used to take boat on this stream to go to the Thames.-f- 
One of the Benedictine rules required that there should 
always be a mill attached to the Abbey. Mr. Timbs states 
that the Mill was standing in 1644, and is mentioned in an 
entry in the parish books of that year, when eleven shillings 
were paid to John Rcdvv^ood " for charges upon sundrie 
indictments touching the bridge at the water-mill. "J 

This " Water-mill," which may be safely regarded as 
the real sponsor of the locality, is marked on Norden's plan, 
taken from his survey in 1573. 

A " bank " may have been thrown up here as an attempt 
to prevent the inundation of the Fields behind : Walcott 
states that in the reign of Edward I. Tothill-fields were 
deeply under water. Stowe tells us that in 1242 the 
Thames so ov^erflowed the banks " that in the great hall at 
Westminster men took their horses, because the water ran 
over all," and that a few years previously (1236), " in the 
great palace of Westminster men did row with wherries 
in the midst of the hall, being forced to ride to their 
chambers." Coming down to more recent times, we read 
in the Gcntlevians Magaavic, that on February 2, 1791 : — 

There was the hii,diest flood-lidc, on the ii\er Thames, that has 
ever been remembered. 

Above Westminster Bridge it o\erflo\ved tlVe Ijanks of the ri\er on 
Ijoth sides, particularly at Millbank, when it came into the Horse-ferry 
Road, and carried awa\' se\eral logs of timber, &c. In Palace-yard it 
was near two feet deep ; it also ran into Westminster Hall, so as to 
prevent people passing for two hours. Boats came through the pas- 
sage of Old Palace-yard from the Thames, and rowed up to West- 
minster-hall gate. The inhabitants in Millbank-street were obliged to 
pass to and from their houses in boats. 

The ground floor of Lord Belgrave's house, j and the garden were 
flooded two feet deep : as were almost all the gardens and nursery- 
grounds round Chelsea and Lambeth. 

* Bardwell's IVestmiiislcr Iiuprovemcnts, p. 8. 

t Dean Stanley's Memorials, p. 338. 

X London and IVcstininslir, Vol. L, p. 149. § Sec p.'xgc 354 post. 



350 Millbank. 

The locality was inundated by a similar overflow on 31st 
December, 1804, by which time the floor of Westminster 
Hall had been raised upon arches to prevent damage. Such 
overflows continued, but in a lesser degree, at the times of 
the 'spring tides,' until five-and-twenty years ago, since 
which time the works carried out under the Thames (Floods 
Prevention) Act, obtained by the late Metropolitan Board 
of Works, have contributed to the great relief of the district 
from the inconvenience. 

An etching by J. T. Smith, in 1797, shows the existence 
of the embankment as an earthwork protected by huge 
planks laid roughly lengthwise next the river. Willows are 
growing slantwise over the embankment ; a sailing boat is 
just putting off from the shore ; and a party in a 
small boat are seen pulling over to the opposite side {Grace 
collection of prints, Brit. Mus., Portf XIV. 2). The first 
sight of the picture recalls — - 

" Once more the distant shout 
The measured pulse of racing oars 

Among the Willows." 

Tennvson. 

Pennant informs us that, "in the time of Queen Elizabeth 
the shore correspondent to Lambeth was a mere marshy 
tract." The thoroughfare along Millbank — if it can with 
justice be dignified by such a term — was, in common with 
other highways in the olden time, often in a most miserable 
condition. Towards the end of Elizabeth's reign the people 
of Lambeth complained to the Secretary of State of the 
common nuisance arising out of the broken down " banck 
that leadeth from Westminster to the horse ferrie " ; but 
the parish endeavoured to fix the liability to repair upon 
the proprietors of the ferry. From the Vestry minute 
book, commencing with the year 1591, the following 
selections are made as illustrative of the manner in 
which the business relating thereto was transacted : — 

To my loving friendes the balie and Burgessie of the cittie of 
Westm'ter. 
After my hastie comendation I send you here inclosed a peticion 
lately presented unto me by the inhabitantes of Lambeth whereby 



Responsibility disdaiined. 351 

you may perceive what it is they coinplaine of, for my owne parte 
I will impose nothing upon you in particular not knowing how 
farre you are tyed to satisfie theini in their demandes Onlye in 
generall I have thought fitt to advise you to consider amongst 
y selves what is to be doone on y pte, which I wish forthwith to 
be performed. The rather for that it concernes the reperation of 
a comon Nusaunce whereof every man doth participate that have 
occasion to m^k usse of the ferrie and I have heard it heartofore 
much complained of, though I am ignorant whcather it be y part 
to see reformation. And soe I l^id you farewell fro the Court att 
Greenwitch this 20th May 1602. 

y Loving friend 

ROB. CECILL. 

The petition to which the foregoing letter to the Vestry- 
relates and the reply are entered upon the minutes as 
follows : — 

To the right HonW<^ .Sir Rob. Cecill Knight, principall Seacretaire 

to the Queen's most excellent niaiestie. 
The. Humble peticion of Abraham Merrick and others the 
Inhabitaunces of Lambeth. 

Whereas about ij yeares past a peticion was delivered to y house 
toutching the reperation of the banck that leadeth fro West- 
minster to the horse ferrie boate, which by y Honors good 
meanes was then somewhat mended, but \ct in such slender 
manner as that the same is still in winter time in some places 
unpassable. And n^oreovcr the said banck is so exceedingly 
annoyed by reason ef the milditch there adjoining and the sprint 
tides, that if y"" Honor be not a meanes for redressee in this 
bchaulfe, noe subject by any meanes can ha\e passage that way. 
And for that the said banck is in the parish of Westminster, 
yo"" Supply most Humblye beseeche yo'' Honor to cause the Sur- 
veior for the highways of Wesm''^ aforesaid to whom it apper- 
taineth that without delay they do repaire and amend the said 
bancke soe sufficiently that without danger or hindrance her 
maiesties subjects may have free passage. Wherein yo>" honor 
shall perform a very work and bind y Supp'^ to pray to (iod for 
your perpetuall happines. 

Fro. the IJailiff & Burgesses, their answer to the Right 

Honorable Sir Robert Cecill, His letter sent unto them 

the 20th May, 1602. 

Right Ho'^''^ Sr., humble duties remembered. Whereas Abraham 

Merricke and others the inhabitants of Lambeth, have been 

peticioners to yo"" Honor to cause the Surveiours for the high 

waies of Westminster to repair, & amend the banck that leadeth 

from Westminster to the horse ferrie boate. And whereas, yor honor 

hath directed your letter to us to consider aniongslc o""- selves 



35? Millbank. 

what is to be done on o^ parts, we have accordingly mett togeather 
& find the Inhabitance of Westminster have not beene chardged 
herewith heretofore, but they which have the profitt of the ferrie 
which by due proofe we are redy to show have heretofore usualHe 
repaired the said bancke. And have had hcense of the late Dean 
of Westminster by the mediation of frendes to dig gravill in 
Tuttell for the repaire thereof they both paieing for the digging & 
carriadge thereof And have at sundrie times brought furres & 
other stuff from Lambeth to repaire the same. The farmors of 
the ferrie have heretofore maid like suit unto yo"" Ho^'e deceased 
father who hath taken notice of their uniust request, & being 
satisfied therein gave them answer accordingly. Even soe with 
remembrance of o'' dutye to yo"" Honor, We humbley take our 
leave, Westminster, 31st May, 1602. 

No improv^ement having been made during twelve months 

following this representation, the parishioners of Lambeth 

appealed to the Privy Council through the instrumentality 

of the Archbishop of Canterbury : — 

To the reverend father in God the lo. Archbishop of Caunter- 
berrie primat & metropolitan of all England & one of her 
maiesties most Hoble Privie Counsell. 
Whereas we the Inhabitantes of the parish of St. Margretts in 
Westminster have been chardged & required by Mr Deane of Wes^ 
minster by the mediation of yo"" Grace to amend and repaire the 
banck that leadeth from Westminster to the horse ferrie the same 
banke beinge very fowle & in great decay May it please yo"" Grace 
to be advertised that the said bancke hath not beene att any time 
repaired by the Inhabitantes of Westminster but hath allways since 
it was first maid a way or passage to the ferrie been repaired and 
amended by those who have had the profitt of the said ferrie as we 
can sufficiently prove by the testimonie of divers witnesses the 
■ same being noe ancient highway but was taken out of the close next 
adioying for the advantage of the ferrie and notwithstanding the 
ferriemen at severall times by their humble peticion long since 
maid to the right Ho^e the lo. Burghley'late lo. Treasurer of 
England & since that time to the right Ho^J'*^ the lo. Cecill have 
much importuned their lordships to cause the surveiors of high 
wayes in Westminster to repair the said bancke Yet it was soe 
plainly and evidently proved that the said" Inhabitantes weare not 
to be charged with the repairing of the said bancke as their Lord- 
ships weare therewith verie fully satisfied And now the said 
bancke is soe ill kept and maintained by the ferriemen as in the 
winter time it is not passable and therefore it doth proceed tha 
the said ferriemen doth continew his chalinge & accusation 
against W^estminster not for any hope or expectation he hath that 
the parishoners of Westminster can or ought or will intermedle 



" See the end of this controversy." 353 

in the repairing thereof but that he may have a shadow or colour 
to excuse himself of his deserved blame which otherwise he can 
not excuse but by his uniust and wrongful imputinge the fault to 
others And if the said ferriemen or any others doe make any 
question or doubt of the truth of the premisses we the said 
parishioners are redie to make our iust defence by a tryall at the 
comon law whensoever we shall be drawne thereunto Written 
and subscribed by us the Inhabitantes of Westminster aforesaid 
i6'ii day of May, 1603 

William Godard, Christopher Ricrofte Ed Doubleday, Morris 

Pickermg, Marmaduke Servant, Cutberd Linde, Tho 

Skinner, Rob. Goulding, Willia. Man, Tho Tickeridge 

The like controversie being betweene chelsey and battersea for the 

ferrie there it was tried in the chequer chamber & there adiudged 

that the ferrieman having the profitt on both sides should main- 

taine the ferrieway on both sides which in chelsey having the 

profitt maintaineth both the wayes. 

Forty-five years later the liability to repair the Mill- 
bank was still in question, in consequence of which a con- 
viction was obtained against the parish : — 

May 12, /d^i^/.— Ordered that . . the Churchwardens shall paie 
to Nicholas Wisby twentie shillings for an amerciament for 
not mending the Bridge at the Mill and tliat . . Mr. Arnold 
shall have twentie shillings aid to him wh hee paid 
to Thos. Vincent for serving the place of Surveyor of the 
highwayes the last year in the stead of mr Ffuller who refused 
the place. 

Indictments were also laid on account of the neglected 
state of the approaches and other highways, and the opinion 
of counsel was taken : — 

J2/h August, i6s4. Whereas the parish has bene heretofore 
presented for not repaircing the High wayes . . . and 
Whereas there are.severall presentments upon this parish in 
Generall for not repaireing the Mill bridge wch is considered 
ought to be repaired & maintained by some pticulcr Inhabitante 
adioyncing to the said Bridge It is ordered that the Church- 
\vardens gctt the state of the case trucly sett downe and there- 
upon if they be soe advised by some Learned Counsell in the 
Lawe that they goe to a tryall for the same with all convenient 
speed. 

The Vestry shortly afterwards raised money for repairing 
the highways, and proved, by obtaining the imposition of 
fines, a desire to carry out their obligations somewhat more 
readily. 



354 - Millbank. 

Millbank was not only well nigh impassable ; it was full 
of dangers to the belated pedestrian. The bank and the 
off-lying Tothill-fields were a favourite skulking-place for 
the foot-pad, the highwayman, and the promiscuous cut- 
throat generally, where they might hide under the shadows 
of trees and bushes. Even in broad daylight there was no 
immunity from attack. The Vestry of St. John's regularly 
employed for many years a man called the Sunday watch- 
man or constable, who was paid 5/- per week to conduct 
the people in safety to and from Church — 

" Like one that on a lonesome road 
Doth walk in fear and dread, 
And having once turned round, walks on 
And turns no more his head." 

Coleridge. 

Mr. James Malcolm, in his London Redivivuni (1802-5), 
tells us that Lord Belgrave had a neat brick mansion within 
a pretty garden on the banks of the Thames at Millbank. 
" Hence northward a row of respectable houses front the 
river lined with rubbish, boats, and old vessels ; whence to 
the House of Commons are many timber and coal yards." 

In the rate book for 1782 (St. John's parish), the first 
entry in respect of Millbank is that of Sir John Delaval's 
property, which was assessed at iJ^ioo, but was written off 
' empty " for that year. Here also lived Captain (after- 
wards Admiral) Ommanney ; his house was assessed at 

Millbank-street, Wallcott tells us, was in 1745 called the 
High-street at Millbank. Strype's Stow (1720), and Sey- 
mour's Survey (1735) — the latter being mostly a mere copy 
of the former — thus describe this ancient thoroughfare : — 

"The Mill-Bank, a very long place, which beginneth by Lindsey 
House, or rather by the Old Palace Yard, and runneth up into Peter- ~ 
borough House which is the farthest house. The part from against 
College Street unto the Horseferry hath a good row of buildings on 
the east side next to the Thames, which is most taken up with large 
woodmongers' yards and brewhouses ; and here is a waterhouse which 
heweth the end of the town ; the north side is but ordinary, except 
one or two houses by the end of College Street, and the part beyond 



Peterborough-house. 355 

the Horseferry hath a ver)' good row of houses much inhabited by 
gentry, by reason of the pleasant situation and prospect of the Thames. 
The Earl of Peterborough's house hath a large court-yard before it, 
and a fine garden behind it, but its situation is but bleak in the winter, 
and not over healthful, as being so near the low meadows on the south 
and west parts." 

Londina Illustrata (Vol. 11.), published in 18 19, contain.s 
an excellent ent^ravinLj of Peterborough House, afterwards 
Grosvenor House, on Millbank, and gives moreover the 
following interesting account of it : — 

"This mansion considered for nearly two centuries as the last 
habitable house in Wesf, was erected by John Mordaunt, first Earl 
of Peterborough, who was advanced to that dignity by letters patent, 
March 9, 1628, 3, Cha. i. He was brought up (as were most of his 
family) in the Romish religion, but was converted by a disputation at 
his house between the learned Bishop Usher and a Papist ; the latter 
confessing himself silenced by the just hand of God on him, for 
presuming, without leave of his superiors, to dispute with the Bishop 
who was then only Dr. Usher. 

The Mordaunt family were previous to this time bigoted Catholics 
and Henry, Lord Mordaunt, in the fourth of King James I., being 
suspected to have knowledge of the gunpowder treason plot, was, w ith 
Edward, Lord Stourton, and the Earl of Northumberland, committed 
to the Tower, where after some imprisonment, he and Lord Stourton 
being fined in the Star Chamber, June 3, 1606, were released ; but the 
Earl of Northumberland continued a prisoner for 15 years after. This 
Lord Mordaunt had to wife Margaret, daughter of Henry, Lord 
Compton, by whom he had issue John, who succeeded him, and 
became the founder of this house. 

This House continued the property of the Peterborough family, 
until the demise of Charles Mordaunt, the 3rd Earl, which took place 
at Lisbon, Oct. 25, 1735. *[It then passed by purchase to Alexander 
Davis of Ebury, in the County of Middlesex, esquire, whose sole 
daughter and heiress, Mary, marrying Sir Thomas (irosvenor, Bart., 
in 1676, became mother of the late Sir Robert Grosvenor, who inherited 
this house, and all the rest of his vast property about London, in right 
of his said mother.] It has been erroneously stated, that this house 
was erected by Alexander Davis, in 1660 ; but Mr. Pennant informs us 
that here, in his boyish days, he had often experienced the hospitality 
of Sir Robert Grosvenor, and that this house came by purchase of one 
of his family (doubtless his maternal grandfather) from the Mordaunts 
Earls of Peterborough. And in Hollar's four sheet view of London 



* It may l)e mentioned here for what it is worth that the copy of Londina 
Ilbistrata in the British Museum is marked in pencil at the place shown by 
square brackets above, as an " error," 



356 Millbank. 

and Westminster, published in 1666, this edifice is clearly made out, 
with the name of Peterborough House under it ; a distinction not very 
likely to be given, had the Earl of Peterborough only been tenant to 
the Davis family, and not the ostensible proprietor himself 

" It appears by no means a modern practise for our nobility and 
gentry occasionally to let out their town as well as country houses. In 
Hatton's new view of London, printed in the year 1708, Peterborough 
House, Millbank, is noticed then as in the possession of Mr. Bull, a 
merchant : at this period, the Earl of Peterborough was serving his 
country in Spain, and in the years 1710 and 171 1 was employed on an 
embassy to Turin, and other Italian courts ; these engagements ren- 
dered an expensive establishment at home to him quite unnecessary. 

" The present Earl Grosvenor's grandfather resided in this house 
till 1755 ; and it was afterwards inhabited by Lord Delaval, and Mr. 
Symmons. His lordship then had it in his own occupation, and 
occasionally lived in it for nearly 20 years, until 1809, when it was 
taken down to facilitate the great improvements that have since been 
made in this neighbourhood. 

"This part of the Estate of Earl Grosvenor, containing about seven 
acres, is bounded on the east by the river Thames south by the estate 
late the Marquis of Salisbury's, now in the hands of Government, west 
by the Estate of the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, called Tothill 
Fields, now let on building leases, and north by the Horseferry road 
leading from the fields to the ferry to Lambeth. It is now (1822) 
leased to Mr. John Johnson, who is considerabh' improving this 
quarter of the Metropolis, by forming new streets, etc." 

Thomas Pennant in his Some Account of London, (i793) 
speaks of Millbank not as " a very long place"- — as Strype 
and Seymour called it — but rather as a single house or 
mansion. He says: " Millbank, the last dwelling in West- 
minster, is a large house which took its name from a mill 
which once occupied its site." As Mr. Harland Oxley has 
pointed out, this can scarcely be correct so far as the exact 
site is concerned, for the mill was situated, as we have 
already seen, almost at the commencement of the Bank, 
near Great College-street. However, to continue Pennant's 
account — 

" Here, in my boyish days, I often experienced the hospitality of the 
late Sir Robert Grosvenor, its worthy owner, who enjoyed it, by the 
purchase by one of his family from the Mordaunts, Earls of Peter- 
borough. All the rest of his vast property about London devolved on 
him in right of his mother, Mary, daughter and heiress of Alexander 
Davies, of Ebury, in the County of Middlesex. I find, in the plan of 
London by Hollar, a mansion on this spot under the name of Peter- 



A favious mansion. 357 

borough House. It probably was built by the first Earl of Peterborough. 
It was inhabited by his successors, and retained its name till the time of 
the death of that great but irregular genius, Charles, Earl of Feter- 
borough, in 1735." 

It would appear, however, from an entry in the St. John's 
Vestry minutes that Pennant was not mistaken in calling 
the ancient mansion of the Grosvenors " Millbank." It was 
also known as " Millbank House." On the 28th Februar)', 
181 2, a Committee appointed to visit the parish boundaries 
at Millbank reported an alteration of the public footway 
in front of the site where Lord Grosvenor's house " called 
Millbank House formerly stood'' — apparently made under 
Sec. 51 of the 49 Geo. III., cap. 142, the Vauxhall Bridge 
Act. This is the first mention of the bridge in the Vestr)- 
minutes. According to the Act the footpath should not 
have been closed until " each branch road from the intended 
bridge through the forecourt of Earl Grosvenor's house 
should have been completed." The heiress, Mary Davies, 
lies in St. Margaret's Churchyard ; her tomb is now the 
only one to be seen there, close to the north porch of the 
church. Dod's Peerage informs us that the Right Hon. 
Lord Ebury (Robert Grosvenor, first baron, so created in 
1857) was born at Millbank House, Westminster, on April 
24th, 1 80 1. 

It was whilst living here, in 1735, that Charles, the third 
Earl of Peterborough, was privately married to his second 
wife, Mrs. Anastasia Robinson, the celebrated contralto 
vocalist. He died the same year, after v>hich the house was 
rebuilt by the Grosvenor family, upon the property coming 
into their possession in the manner explained above. The 
Earl of Wilton, brother of the late Marquess, and uncle of 
the present Duke of Westminster, was also born here. 
This famous mansion is assured of an undoing remembrance, 
for has not the immortal Joe Miller — who flourished by 
sufference of the gods from a.d. 1684 to 1738 — made it or 
its occupants the subject of a joke in his Jest /hx'/c imder 

Y 



358 Millbank. 

the title of "high living."? Here it is. "Peterborough 
House, which is the very last in London, one way, being 
rebuilt, a gentleman asked another 'who lived in it'? His 
friend told him 'Sir Robert Grosvenor.' 'I don't know,' said 
the first, ' what estate Sir Robert has, but he ought to have 
a very good one ; for nobody lives beyond him in the whole 
town.' " 

As Congreve, the dramatist and poet (1670- 1729) was 
once being rowed in a wherry up the Thames at Millbank, 
the waterman remarked that, owing to its bad foundation, 
Peterborough House had sunk a story. " No friend," said 
he, " I rather believe it is a story rai.sed." 

At the time when the Grosvenors were content to live at. 
Millbank, the locality — Riis in urhi\ nrbs in rurc — with its 
goodly houses and fine gardens, must have been very 
pleasant. It became a fashionable resort on Sundays for 
the neighbouring gentry, and here, beneath the shady 
willows that fringed the water's edge, many a disciple of 
Isaac Walton plied his line, or — 

" Beneath some green turf, oft his angle laid, 
His sport suspending to admire the charms " 

of the opposite Surrey shore, with its undulating uplands 
stretching beyond the venerable palace of Lambeth and 
the gardens of Vauxhall. Mr. J. T. Smith's Antiquities of 
Westviinster contains several excellent prints presenting 
views of the bank as rural as those we now see at Molesey 
or Twickenham ; and Old a>id Neiu London (Vol. IV.) has 
a wood-cut of 'Millbank about 1800,' showing the gently 
sloping bank, and cattle which have strayed from the 
neighbouring fields to allay their thirst at the river's brink, 
where pollard oaks, willows — 

". . . and ashes cool. 
The lowly banks o'erspread 
And view, deep bending in the pool. 
Their shadows' watery bed." 
Burns. 



TJie chequered shade of Millbanlc s willows. 359 

The same author in his entertainin<^ l^ook for a Rainy 
Day* writing' under date 1827, makes the following 
remarks anent the changes for the worst which were then 
coming over the rural quietude of Millbank — 

"The Londoners, but more particularly the inhabitants of West- 
minster, who had been for years accustomed to recreate witliin the 
chequered shade of Millbank's willows, have been by degrees deprived 
of that pleasure, as there are now very few trees remainini,', and those 
so scanty of foliage, liy being- nearly stript of their bark, that the public 
arc no longer induced to tread their once sweetly \ariegated banks. 
Hereon many a summer's evening (kiinsborough, accompanied by his 
friend Collins,+ amused himself by sketching docks and nettles, which 
afforded the Rembrandt and Cuyp-like effects to the fore-grounds of his 
rich and glowing landscapes. 

Millbank, which originally extended with its pollarded ^\illows from 
Helyrave House to the White Lead Mills at the corner of the lane 
leading to " Jenny's Whim," afforded similar subjects to those selected 
by four of the old rural painters ; for instance, the boat builders' sheds 
on the bank, with their nien at work on the shore, might ha\e been 
chosen by Everdingen ; the wooden steps from the bank, the floating 
timber, and old men in their boats, with the Vauxhall and Hattersea 
windmills, by \'an (loyen ; the various colours of the tiles of the cart- 
sheds, entwined by the autumnal tinged vines, backed with the most 
prolijic orchards, with the women gathering the garden produce for the 
ensuing day's market, would have pleased Ruysdael ; and the basket 
maker's o\erhanging smoking hut, with a woman in her white cap and 
sunburnt petticoat, dipping her pail for water, niight have been 
represented by the pencil of Dekker." 

Room must be found for yet another quotation from 
\A Book for a Rainy Day, whose author so dearh- loved 
Westminster and its antiquities : — 

" Pull away, my hearty" (for I was again in a boat). "To Westminster, 
Master? — Ay, to Westminster." 

Being now in view of the extensive yards which for ages ha\e l)ccn 
occupied by stone and marble merchants, "Ay" said I, " if these 
wharfs could speak, they, no doubt, like the Fly, would boast of their 
noble works. Was it not from our blocks that Roubiliac carved his 
figures of Newton, the pride of Cambridge ; and that of Eloquence, in 
Westminster Abbey ; Bacon's figure of Mars, now in Lord Yarborough's 
possession ; Rossi's Celadon and Amelia, and Flaxman's mighty figure 
of Satan, in the Earl of Egremont's gallery at Pclworth ; as well as 

*A Book for a Rainy Day : or Recollections of the events of the years 1766- 
'S33; byJ.T. Smith, p. 243. 

t See page 278 ante for an account of this local artist. 

V 2 



36o 



Vz'ew fvoiii Millbank. 




Mail-coacJics. 361 

three-fourths of Nollekens's numerous busts, which according to 
whisperings, have only been equalled by Chantrey.? And then has not 
our Carrara been conveyed to the studios of Westmacott and Bayley ? 

Appreciative Mr. Hare, referring in his Walks in Lofidon 
to the Dutch picturesqueness of Millbank, says in a foot- 
note : " Artists should find their way to the banks amongst 
the boats and warehouses on the Westminster shore 
opposite Lambeth and further still." 

There is a series of sketches of this locality in the Grace 
collection of prints preserved in the British Museum, drawn 
by W. Capon between 1799 and 1806. The fields lying off 
Millbank are sketched from several points of view, in three 
of which a windmill is shown as existing there at the time. 

In Millbank-street there were, besides wharves and stone 

yards, and brewhouses, numerous large stables in the 

occupation of carriers and coach proprietors. Perhaps the 

leading light of the latter in his day was Mr. John Vidler, 

the Government contractor, who lived in a house which had 

been built in the "middle of the Millbank" by Sir John 

Crosse, Bart., the brother of the brewer. To this hou.se, 

Mr. Walcott informs us, the mail-coaches used to be driven 

in annual procession from Lombard-street upon the King's 

birthday. 

" Go, call a coach, and let a coach be called. 
And let the man who callcth l)e the caller ; 
And in his calling let him nothing call, 
But Coach ! Coach ! Coach ! O for a coach, ye gods I " 

C'.AKHV. 

At noon the cavalcade of newly-varnished coaches and 
well-groomed horses, decked out with new harness and 
ribbons and streamers, used to set out in charge of guards 
and coachmen decorated with showy nosegays, and post- 
boys in scarlet jackets on horseback in advance, reaching 
the General Post Office at six in the evening. The display 
annually attracted quite a gathering of sightseers to witness 
the start to the lively strains of coach horns. The King's 
birthday, in 1790, was the occasion of the first of these 



362 Millbank. 

processions, when sixteen coaches set out with plated 

harness and hammercloths of scarlet and gold. The displays 

were continued annually, with varying gaiety of decoration 

and trimming, until within the recollection of many persons 

still living who would object to be called old ; but now — 

" No more those coaches shall they see 
Come trundling from tlie yard, 
Nor hear the horn blow cheerily 
By brandy-bibbing guard." 

Millbank was ever famous — as we have seen from Strype 

and others — for its brewhouses and distilleries. A distillery 

belonging to a Mr. Hodge stood close by the site of the 

Prison at the time of its being built. Messrs. Seager Evans' 

establishment was transferred hither from that part of Pim- 

Hco now called Brewer-street, early in the present century. 

In TJie Nc-tvs of September i, 1806, we read — 

" This morning about six a fire broke out at the distillery of Messrs. 
Smith, Cook, and Tate, on Millbank,* which burnt for near two hours, 
destroying the steam engine, estimated at 5,000/. ... A great 
quantity of corn was destroyed ; two barges, laden with coals, in the 
dock caught fire, and were burning for a long time. The storehouse 
was saved, and also the vats containing spirits. A detachment of the 
Queen's Royal Volunteers, and six of the St. Margaret's and St. 
John's corps aUcnded. The premises were insured for 77,000/., and 
the loss is estimated at 60,000/" 

The rural aspect of Millbank first began to disappear 
early in the second decade of the present century, after the 
demolition of Peterborough-house in 1809, and when the 
projects for building of Vauxhall-bridge and the Penitentiary 
were in the air. In P'ebruary of 181 1 the Paving Commis- 
sioners appointed a Committee to inquire into the right of 
l^arl Grosvenor to let out the ground of Millbank-row, 
next the river, for wharves, and the Committee reported 
next month having seen several of the leases and under 
leases, and taken the opinion of their solicitor thereon, who 
found that the " places had always been so leased and used.'' 



* Although described as of Millbank, this .should probably have been 
Thames Bank." 



Projections on the Joreshore. 



j^j 



The wall round the garden of I'eterborough-house, with 
an outer footpath along the river side, was not removed till 
a )'ear or two after the demolition of the mansion, for in 
iSii his lordship's attention was called to the ruinous and 
dangerous state of the wall, which had been partially 
washed away by the tide, and to the serious accidents 
which frequently happened in consequence. His lordship 
in reply merely called upon his tenants to rejKur under 
their covenants. In September of the same year it was 
reported that Earl Grosvenor had agreed with the City of 
London as Conservators to extend further into the river 
the private interests in Millbank-row. Other accidents 
having occurred the Commissioners erected a pcxst and rail 
fence next the river "on the public ground under their juris- 
diction," and when the owners of leases claimed a right to 
gates, they were refu.sed. In Jul}', 1812, a notice board 
was ordered to be put up warning obstructors (principally 
in loading and unloading waggons) that they would be 
prosecuted ; and that the local authority were determined 
on preserving the public rights is testified b)- the fact 
that a man was shortly afterwards prosecuted for taking 
down part of the railing and obstructing the highway. On 
the 28th February, 181 2, a Committee appointed to view 
the parish boundaries at Millbank reported that " some 
alteration of the line of public footway appears now to be 
making on the banks of the Thames on the south side 
of the forecourt of Earl Grosvenor's late house," and 
" that Messrs. Johnson and Brice are about to make a wharf 
or landing place and to obstruct the public footway leading 
from Millbank-row southwards to Vauxhall-bridge." This 
was Grosvenor-wharf (Messrs. Mowlem's) so that the 
site of Peterborough-house can be very exactl}- fixed. 
Messrs. John.son and Brice were informed that the Vestry 
could not consent to such obstructions, but with what 
result the sequel has shown. The power of proijert)' 
proved too strong. Again in h'ebruar)-, 181 5, complaint 



364 Millbank. 

was made of interference with the footway in Millbank- 
row (the same having become impassable, and in many 
places dangerous) owing to persons employed on the 
Penitentiary having cut up the way with their carts and 
barrows in unloading the barges. In July, 18 17, Mr. 
Johnson, pavior, informed the Commissioners that the Con- 
servators of the Thames had granted him permission to 
carry out his wharf in Millbank-row, and that Earl 
Grosvenor had also consented. At last the tribulations of 
the Commissioners were to some extent diminished when 
it was announced in December of 181 8 that the " new road 
from Millbank-row to the Penitentiary and Vauxhall-bridge 
was ready to be opened shortly." In August, 18 19, the 
footway was first paved, the carriageway pitched, and kerb 
placed next the river fence. A few months previously 
(March, 18 19) the Commissioners of Woods and Forests 
complained that a crane had been erected which, when 
turned over the street, overhung it by sixteen feet. The 
Commissioners reluctantly replied that they had no 
power to stop it ; and things would appear to have gone 
on in this st}'le for nearly twenty years, when the Marquess 
of Westminster informed a deputation who waited upon 
him in 1837, that he could not interfere, inasmuch as his 
tenants had undoubted rights under their leases to load 
and unload, and that the Commissioners must deal with 
obstructions under their own statutory powers. 

The road fronting Millbank prison did not exist prior to 
1 817, when an Act, 57 Geo. III., cap. 54, was passed to 
enable Her Majesty's Commissioners of Woods and Forests 
" to make and maintain a road from Millbank-row, West- 
minster, to the Penitentiary." The Act recited that no 
carriage way had yet been set out for passing and repassing 
between the said Penitentiary and the City of Westminster, 
and that it was necessary and expedient for opening a 
communication with the said Penitentiary that a free and 
public carriage way should be made and maintained from 



Sketched by Dickens. 365 

the south end of Millbank-rovv, over a piece or parcel 
of land belonging to the Earl Grosvenor, and then in the 
possession of Thomas Sargent, and by him used as a wharf, 
and to be continued along the bank of the River Thames 
in the line of the old footpath, to the lodge or gate of the 
said Penitentiary. The land was to be acquired by funds 
applied from the Land Revenue, and power was given to 
extend the new road, which, according to the Act, was not 
to exceed 30 ft. in width, in the direction of Vauxhall 
Bridge. 

Chaucer's ]]^ife of Bath has been outdone by a good 
lady of Westminster. According to the General Advertiser 
there died at her house near Millbank, on August 27, 1752, 
a Mrs. Tolderoy, " an ancient widow lady, who had buried 
six husbands in twenty-two years ! " 

" Behold the joys of matrimonial hfe. 

And hear with rev'rence an experienced wife ; 

To dear-bought wisdom give the credit due, 

And think for once a woman tells you true. 

In all these trials I have borne a part, 

I was myself the scourge that caused the smart ; 

For, since fifteen, in triumph have I led 

Five captive husbands from the church to Ijed. 

Now heav'n, on all my husbands gone, bestow 
Pleasures above for tortures felt below : 
That rest they wislied for, grant them in the grave, 
And bless those souls my conduct helped to save !" 

Poi'E s Translation. 

Dickens, who knew Westminster — and more particularly 
its purlieus and out-of-the-way corners — so intimately, has 
left us in David Copperfield 7). vivid pen-picture of Millbank 
as it was at the period of his favourite novel — 

The neighbourhood was a dreary one at that time ; as oppressive, 
sad, and solitary by night as any about London. There were neither 
whar\es nor houses on the melancholy waste of road near the great 
blank Prison. A sluggish ditch deposited its mud at the prison walls. 
Coarse grass and rank weeds straggled over all the marshy land in 
the vicinity. In one part, carcases of houses, inauspiciously begun 
and never finished, rotted away. In another, the ground was cum- 
bered with rusty iron monsters of steam-boilers, wheels, cranks, 



366 Millbank. 

furnaces, paddles, anchors, diving-bells, windniill-sails, and I know 
not what strange objects, accumulated by some speculator, and 
grovelling in the dust, underneath which — having sunk into the soil j 
of their own weight in wet weather- -they had the appearance of vainly ■ 
tr\'ing to hide themseh'es. The clash and glare of sundry fiery Works 
upon the river side arose by night to disturb everything except the 
heavy and unbroken smoke that poured out of theij chimneys. Slimy 
gaps and causeways winding among old wooden piles, with a sickly 
substance clinging to the latter like green hair, and the rags of last 
year's handbills, offering rewards for drowned men, fluttering above 
high-water mark, led down through the ooze and slush to the ebb 
tide. There was a stor}' that one of the pits dug for the dead in the 
tinie of the Great Plague was hereabout, and a blighting influence 
seemed to have proceeded from it over the whole place. Or else it 
looked as if it had gradually decomposed into that nightmare condi- 
tion out of the overflowings of the polluted stream. 

It is now time that something was said about the 
gloomy fortress-like structure that forms so conspicuous a 
feature on the river shore at Millbank ; for seeing that it 
occupies some 23 acres (more than a tenth) of the parish, a 
brief account of it may be considered admissible. During the 
last seventy years or more the name of ' Millbank' has had 
for a troublesome element of society — the criminal classes — 
but one association, now soon to be dissolved. Her 
Majesty's Government have finally (1892,) determined upon 
the demolition of ' the English Bastille ' — as it has been 
stigmatised from the general resemblance of its conical- 
shaped towers to those of the Bastille du Temple at Paris, 
as well as from the former severity of its system — and the 
maps of London will no longer present the curious cart- 
wheel plan of the prison, like a huge asterisk, to show where 
Westminster lay. Though Millbank prison has only been 
standing some eighty years, it has had a history so 
remarkable and so varied that it is only right it should have 
a historian of its own ; and that historian it has found in 
Major Griffiths, whose exhaustive and entertaining 
Memorials of Millbank (1884) preclude anything more 
than a general summary being attempted in these pages. 
' The very name " of Millbank, justly observes Major 
Griffiths, " contains in itself almost an epitome of our whole 



''Conic, let's away to priso}L' 367 

penal legislation. With it one intimately associates the 
names of men like Howard and Jeremy Bcntham ; an 
architect of eminence, Sir Robert Smirke, superintended its 
erection ; while statesmen and hii^h dii^nitaries, dukes, 
bishoi:)S, and members of parliament, were to be found upon 
its committee of management, exercising a control that was 
far from nominal or perfunctory, not disdaining a close 
consideration of the minutest details, and coming into 
intimate personal communion with the criminal inmates, 
whom, by praise or admonition, they sought to reward or 
reprove. Millbank has been doomed to demolition again 
and again ; its site, valued now at near a quarter of a 
million, has been promised for other edifices — now for a 
barracks, now for aristocratic squares. Ten years ago a new 
prison, intended to replace it, was commenced in the 
western suburbs of London. The new prison is completed 
and occupied, yet Millbank still survives. Only within the 
last few months the penitentiary has passed into a new 
phase of its long and chequered existence. The females' 
prison in Tothill-fields has been clo.sed, luider the power 
III the Prisons .Act of 1S77, and Millbank has taken its 
place. It is now the sole metrojiolitan prison tor lemales, 
just as (juce it was the sole reformatory for [jrcjmising 
criminals, the first receptacle for militar}- prisoners, the 
great depot for convicts en route to the Antipodes." The 
Penitentiary at Millbank indisputabl}' owed its origin 
to the labours and agitations of the great philanthropist, 
John Howard. When the Declaration of American Inde- 
pendence in 1776 closed those colonies against our criminal 
outcasts, the legislature discovered that " transportation to 
His Majesty's colonies and plantations in America was 
found to be attended by various inconveniences, particularly 
b}' deprixing the kingdom of many subjects who.se labour 
might be useful to the community" (16 Geo. III., cap. 43, 
1777) and an Act for the establishment of Penitentiary 
Houses (19 Geo. HI., cap. 74, 1779-80) in substitution for 



368 Millbank. 

transportation, was produced by the joint labours of Sir 
William Blackstone, Mr. Eden (afterwards Lord Auckland) 
and Mr. Howard. " We have here " says Major Griffiths 
" the first foreshadowing of Millbank Penitentiary, though 
the first stone of that prison was not to be laid for another 
five and twenty years." In the preamble to this Act the 
opinion was expressed that " if many offenders convicted 
of crirries for which transportation has been usually inflicted, 
were ordered to solitary confinement, accompanied by well 
regulated labour and religious instruction, it might be the 
means, under Providence, not only of deterring others from 
the commission of the like crimes, but also of reforming 
the individuals and inuring them to habits of industry." 
Fifteen years were occupied, after the passing of this Act, 
in attempts to find a suitable site for a national peni- 
tentiary, and the project might have fallen to the ground 
altogether but for the intervention of the extraordinary 
' utilitarian philosopher,' Jeremy Bentham. This remark- 
able writer had published, in 1791, his scheme for a 
" Panopticon, or Inspection House," the main idea of which 
was a continual but unobserved supervision of the prisoners, 
by which "a sentiment of a sort of invisible omnipresence" 
was to pervade the whole prison, with solitude or limited 
seclusion (as opposed to the former evils of gaol association) 
diversity of employment, pecuniary interest in work done, 
and, above all, a continuous and unremitting attempt by 
religious and moral suasion, by praise and admonition, by 
instruction and kind treatment, to bring about a reformation 
in the prisoners' characters. Next year Mr. Bentham 
followed the matter up by a formal proposal to erect a 
prison on the plan advocated, he to receive so much per 
prisoner, with fines to be paid by him in cases of death, or 
escape, or failure of the reformatory efficacy of his manage- 
ment. Bentham proposed to throw the place open as a 
sort of public lounge, thereby affording a continual super- 
intendence " by a promiscuous assemblage of unknown, 



BentJianis Panopticon. 369 

and therefore unpaid, ungarbled, and incorruptible in- 
spectors, or, in a word, by the public at large," who might 
hold conversation with the prisoners by means of tubes 
reaching from each cell to the general centre. " The 
banquet offered to curiosity," he actually told the Commons' 
Committee, would be " attractive in proportion to the 
variety, and, if such a term may be here endured, to the 
brilliancy of the scene." This extraordinary scheme — a 
pretty instance of the practical lucubrations of " dreamers 
of dreams " who are so much in favour nowadays — 
was taken up with enthusiasm by Mr. Pitt, Lord 
Dundas (Home Secretary), and others of the Cabinet 
of the day, who struggled in vain, however, against 
a certain secret influence, which was none other 
than that of King George III., who obstinately set 
his face against Bentham and his scheme, because the 
author of the Panopticon " was such a Radical." The king 
refused to append his signature for the purchase of land at 
Battersea-rise, which might have been obtained for half the 
price eventually paid for the Tothill-fields site ; but finally 
an Act was passed in 1794, to enable a contract to be 
entered into between the Treasury and Mr. Bentham, 
whereby the latter undertook to run up a prison to accom- 
modate a thousand convicts, for i^ 19,000. By virtue of the 
Act above mentioned ;^2,ooo was advanced to Mr. Bentham 
in order that he might make the necessary preparations ; 
but four years later the project was still hanging fire, and 
Bentham was out of pocket to the extent of ^^"9,000. Ac- 
cording to Mr. Allen's History of London* the contract 
was re-purchased for the sum of ^^"23,578. In 1798 we find 
Mr. Bentham again giving evidence before the House of 
Commons, recommending the adoption of a site in Tothill- 
fields, which he quaintly described — " If a place could exist of 
which it could be said that it was in no neighbourhood, that 

* Vol. IV., p. 234. 



370 Millbank. 

place would be Tothill-fields." The site previously decided 
upon at Battersea-rise was abandoned, and 53 acres of land 
in Tothill-fields were purchased of Lord Salisbury for 
;^i 2,000, and conveyed to Mr. Bentham as feoffee for the 
Crown. Upon the two local Vestries being informed in 
1799 of the proposed application to Parliament for erecting 
a Penitentiary House in Tothill-fields, resolutions were 
passed by both bodies " that the erection of a Penitentiary 
Hou.se in Tothill-fields will be highly injurious to the 
rights privileges and interests of the inhabitants of the 
united parishes of Saint Margaret and Saint John the 
Evangelist ; " but without effect.* 

The land acquired as a site for the new prison lay on 
either side of the Vauxhall-bridge-road, which being 
laid out after the purchase, dix'ided the property into two 
lots of 38 and i 5 acres respectivel}' — and it was ultimate)}' 
decided to build the prison on part of the larger area of 
ground near the river. On the 12th June, 181 2, the three 
supervisors proceeded to business ; 43 designs were sent in, 
and Mr. William Williams gained the first prize. His 
revised dra\\'ings were subsequently submitted to Mr. 
Hardwicke, the appointed architect, whose original estimate 
amounted to ^,'259,725, and additional for foundations, 
^42,690. Trials and troubles innumerable then commenced; 
the peaty soil was found to be treacherous in the extreme, 
and the reader who would acquaint himself with an account 
of the difficulties met with must turn to Major Griffith's 
Memorials. 

When the boundary wall nearest the river had been built 
six feet high, it sank, and had to be taken down and re-built 
on new foundations. The soil was drained by a steam-pump, 
when the peat thus becoming deprived of water, all the 
surface of the marsh sank some nine inches, bringing down 
the greater part of the work with it. The lodge after being 
built, was found to be unsafe, when longer and more 

* See page 163 of Local Gin'ernmcnt in Westminster. 



\ 



Struct 71 ml difficulties. 371 

numerous piles underneath were substituted ; but this jmrt 
of the building continued for years after in an unsatisfactory 
state, and had e\entually to be in part pulled down, when 
all the piles and planking were found to be decayed, owing 
to the excessive humidity of the soil. 

Countless tons of cement brickwork lie beneath the 
foundations, which were being continually doctored, and the 
saying "that there is more stuff below ground than abo\-e 
at Millbank" may prove to be, when the work of demolition 
commences, literally true. 

Late in 181 3 Mr. Hardwicke resigned and Mr. Harve}', 
- who was appointed in his stead, saw the work through. In 
June, 1 8 16, the first batch of prisoners — 36 females — were 
received. In September, alarming symptons of failure and 
'settlement' appeared in the building. Serious cracks and 
fissures opened in the walls of pentagon No. 1, and the 
safety of the whole edifice was for the moment in question. 
The two eminent engineers, Messrs Rennie and Smirke, 
were consulted. They condemned the main sewer and 
artificial foundations, as well as three of the pentagon 
towers, and Mr. Robert Smirke was appointed to carry out 
the necessary work of strengthening and re-construction. 

In 1 817 the two new pentagons, the third and fourth, 
were finished, and in December, 18 19, the prison jjopulation 
was 325. In 1 82 1 the fifth and sixth pentagons were 
finished, and the fabric of the prison was completed. "But 
other works lingered on for some time later. There were 
plumbers, painters, glaziers, paviors, locksmiths and copper- 
smiths, busy inside till the middle of the following )-ear ; 
the kitchen ranges had to be fixed, iron flues also, steam 
pipes, hot-air stoves, and so forth. But on the 24th Jul}-, 
1822, the supervisors clo.sed their accounts, and the bill for 
the whole outlay was sent in to the Treasury." It amounted 
to ^^450,310, or nearly ^300 for each cell! The ground 
plan of the prison consists of six pentagonal buildings 
radiating from a circle, wherein is the governor's hou.se ; 



372 Millbank. 

and each line terminates in a tower in the outer octagonal 
wall which encloses about i6 acres; 7 covered with buildings, 
and 9 laid out as gardens. The corridors are upwards of 3 
miles long ; there are 40 staircases, making in all three miles 
in length, and about 1,550 cells. "There was one old warder," 
relates Major Griffiths, " who served for years at Millbank, 
and rose through all the grades to a position of trust, who 
was yet unable, to the last, to find his way about the 
premises. He carried with him always a piece of chalk, 
with which he ' blazed ' his path as the American back- 
woodsman does the forest trees. Angles every twenty 
yards, winding staircases, dark passages, innumerable 
doors and gates — all these bewilder the stranger, and con- 
trast strongly with the extreme simplicity of modern 
prison architecture. But indeed Millbank, with its intricacy 
and massiveness of structure, is suggestive of an order that 
is passed. It is one of the last specimens of an age to 
which Newgate also belongs ; a period when the safe 
custody of criminals could only be compassed, people 
thought, by granite blocks, and ponderous bolts and 
bars. ... In these matters modern experience has 
worked an entire revolution. Moral supervision has, 
to a great extent, replaced mere physical restraint. It is 
found that prisoners can be more effectually guarded by 
warders of flesh and blood than by passive chains and huge 
senseless stones, provided only that there is above all the 
sleepless eye of a stringent systematic discipline." 
•- Hardly had the prison been twelve months completed 
when in the autumn of 1822 a strange sickness made its 
appearance amongst the prisoners. They became pale and 
languid, thin and feeble, accompanied with rejection of 
food and occasional faintings. In January, 1823, scurvy — 
unmistakeable sea scurvy — made its appearance, and with 
it dysentery and diarrhoea of the peculiar kind that is 
usually associated with the scorbutic disease. In May, 
1823, there were 386 sick ; in June, 454 ; in July, 438. At 



TJie Penitentiary a faikire. 373 

this time the prison population amounted to 800. There 
were in all 30 deaths. Of course the explanation was the 
insufficient diet and the want of vegetables — not the 
unhealthiness of the site, as was at the time supposed by 
the public, who began to fear that Millbank was a huge 
mistake. ' Here was a building upon which half a million 
had been spent, and now, when barely completed, proved 
uninhabitable ! ' It was decided to give the prisoners a 
change of air and place. An Act of Parliament was 
immediately passed, authorising their transfer to situations 
more favourable for the recovery of their health ; a number 
of the female prisoners were at once sent into the Royal 
Ophthalmic Hospital, Regent's-park, then standing empty ; 
and males and females alike were drafted into different 
hulks off Woolwich. In December, 1823, Millbank Peni- 
tentiary was completely empty. However, the prison was 
re-opened in August, 1824. 

Concerning the trials of the early management, the 
mutinous behaviour of the prisoners, the chaplain's reign, 
the escapes, the Millbank Calendar, and many other in- 
teresting matters, the exigencies of space compel silence in 
these pages. 

The prison was made extra-parochial by Act of Parlia- 
ment. In 1843, after seven a"d twenty years of trial, the 
Millbank Penitentiary, " the great reformatory and moral 
hospital, the costly machine in which had been sunk half a 
million of money," was declared to be a complete failure — 
" a mistake, a mockery, a sham " ; and by the Act 6 and 7 
Vict., cap. 26 (1843) the name was altered to " The Millbank 
Prison." Millbank was destined now to become the starting 
point of the new method of carrying out transportation. 
Every male and female convict sentenced to transportation 
in Great Britain was sent to Millbank previous to the .sen- 
1' tencc being executed. Here they remained about three 
months under the close surveillance of three inspectors of the 
prison, at the end of which time those officers reported to 



374 Millbank. 

the Home Secretary, and recommended the place of trans- 
portation. The population was no longer, so to speak, 
stationary, but fluctuating : instead of two or three hundred 
men and youths specially chosen to remain within the walls 
for years, Captain Groves, the new Governor, had to take in 
all that came, en route for the colonies ; so that in the twelve 
months several thousands passed through his hands. In 
1853 transportation was finally abandoned, and a new style 
of punishment was invented, to describe which the phrase 
" penal servitude " was coined, and passed current in the 
language. The building was, in fact, changed into a regular 
Government prison for criminals, adult and juvenile, and 
became the general depot for convicts waiting to be drafted 
to other prisons, or placed on shipboard for dockyard 
labour ; and here were sent the most reckless and hardened 
criminals from all parts of the country. The penultimate 
change in the prison's destinies took place upon the closing 
of Tothill-fields prison {seep. 322) when Millbank became the 
sole metropolitan prison for females. And now it is to be 
demolished, and in the near future the forbidding, dismal 
entrance gate, where— 

" Above the gloomy portal arch 
Timing his footsteps to a march 
The warder kept his guard " 

Makmion. 

and inscribed above which one almost expected to read 
the well known line — ■ 

" All hope abandon ye who enter here." 

Gary's Dante, III., 9. 

will no longer frown sullenly upon the passers-by in Gros- 
venor-road, nor upon the "large, gentle, deep, majestic King 
of Floods," as it goes hurrying along^ — - 

Down where commerce stains the tide 

Deep in dim wreaths of smoke enfurl'd, 
The wonder of the modern world.* 

On the eve of loth xA.pril, 1848, when the whole of London 

* Verses, "By Tamise Ripe," vol. i, of Once a Week, 



A gloomy prospect. 



375 




Z 2 



376 Millbank. 

was in a state of panic at the Chartist agitation, the prison 
was used by the Duke of Wellington as a station for two 
regiments of the line, who, with others posted out of sight 
elsewhere in the metropolis, were held in readiness to 
check any disorder which might be attempted by the 
thousands who had been invited to meet and march in pro- 
cession to the House of Commons with the Charter petition. 
The meeting was held, but was brought to " a ridiculous 
issue by the unity and resolution of the metropolis, backed 
by the judicious measures of the government, and the 
masterly military precautions of the Duke of Wellington." 

Millbank with other parts of ' our parish ' on that much- 
dreaded night was patrolled by numbers of loyal and peace- 
loving citizens of Westminster, who had enrolled themselves 
as special constables in the sacred interests of law and order. 

In the month of December, 1890, there was only one pri- 
soner there — too ill to be removed — and two warders.* 
And thus ends the history of Millbank prison, after a brief 
existence of four score years, though built to last for cen- 
turies. " Every part of the prison " declares the author of 
the CJiroiiicles of Neivgnte, "visible and invisible, is a mine 
of wealth. Hidden amongst its hundreds of cells, its length 
of corridor and passage, beneath its acres of roof, are, 
without exaggeration, miles of lead piping, hundreds of 
tons of iron, immense iron girders, gates in dozens, — some 
of wrought iron, some of cast,- — flagstones without end, 
shiploads of timber, millions of bricks. If ever the old place 
comes to be pulled down, the curious enquirer may perhaps 
understand why it was that it cost half a million of money." 

Major Griffiths' statement will very soon be put to the 
test. After nearly three years' controversy, since the 
prison's disuse, concerning the question of the utilization 
of the site, Mr. Shaw-Lcfevre, First Commissioner of H.M. 
Works (in whom the property vests under an Act passed 

* Daily News, 27th Dec, 1890, 



Impending changes. lyy 

last session) has (Nov. 28, 1892) officially stated that two- 
and-a-half acres on the river frontage is to be assigned for 
Mr. Henry Tate's ' National Gallery of British Art ' ; that 
a second portion is proposed to be exchanged with the War 
Office for ground belonging to the St. George's Barracks, 
behind the National Gallery, Trafalgar-square, for a new 
barrack ; and that negotiations are proceeding with the 
County Council for the appropriation of a part in the rear 
to the erection of working-class dwellings. " The site is 
naturally one of the finest in London," remarks The 7 iuies 
of Nov. 29, 1892, " though it is grievously injured by that 
abomination the Lambeth Suspension-bridge." The Vestry 
endeavoured in May, 1892, to secure a portion of the site 
for the public use as a recreation ground, and intimated to 
the London County Council their willingness to contribute 
one-fourth the cost of ten acres of the land ; but no progress 
has been made in this matter at the time of writing. It is 
singular that the very latest item of information (a report 
of the County Council, dated Dec, 1892) contains a strong 
observation of their architect confirming all that has been 
said as to the unsuitable nature of the soil for building 
purposes. Reporting thereon, he says " there are signs in 
every direction of the treacherous nature of the subsoil, as 
settlements have evidently taken place below many portions 
of the boundary wall and also of the prison building." 

A little space may properly be spared here for a few 
words about the erudite " dreamer of dreams " who put .so 
massive a structure on the spongy soil of Tothill-fields. 
Jeremy Bentham was the eldest son of Jeremiah Bentham, 
an attorney, and was born in Houndsditch, February 15th, 
1747 (old style). The christian name of Jeremy was 
derived from an ancestor, Sir Jeremy Snow, a banker of 
Charles II's. time. Jeremy was a precocious )'outh. When 
three years of age he read Rapin's History as an amuse- 
ment ; at seven he read Telemaque in French ; at eight he 
played the violin, an instrument on which (as also on the 



378 ^ Millbank. 

organ) he became at a subsequent period of his Hfe, re- 
markably proficient ; he was very distinguished at West- 
minster School, and at thirteen was removed to Oxford, 
where he attained the degree of M.A. nearly three years 
before he was of age. About 1765 his father purchased 
the house in Queen-square-place, where he and his son both 
passed the remainder of their lives. Jeremy Bentham can 
accordingly be claimed as essentially a Westminster man 
"by education, by residence, and by his prison. Bentham's 
writings arc very obscure ; his political principles were 
exceedingly advanced and distasteful to the times ; and his 
utilitarianism was certainly carried to extremes — " Let 
loose our Colonies " is an instance. Of his Panopticon 
scheme nothing further need be said here. He was 
engaged on the third volume of his magnum opus — the 
Constitutional Code — at the time of his death. His 
appearance, it has been remarked, " both in the amplitude 
of his look, the flow of his reverend hair, and the habitual 
benevolence of his smile, had a striking likeness to 
Franklin, and on a hasty glance the busts might be con- 
founded. He had all the practical \\'isdom of one of the 
sages of good sense ; took exercise as long as he could 
both abroad and at home ; indulged in reasonable appetite; 
and, notwithstanding the mechanical-mindedness with 
which his utilitarianism has been charged, and the sus- 
picious jokes he could crack against fancy and the poets, 
could quote his passages out of Virgil, ' like a proper Eton 
boy.' He also played upon the organ, which looked the 
more poetical in him, because he possessed, on the border 
of his garden, a house in which Milton had lived, and had 
set up a bust against it in honour of the great Bard, him- 
self an organ player. Emperors as well as other princes 
had sought to do him honour ; but he was too wise to 
encourage their advances beyond what was good for 
mankind. The Emperor Alexander, who was afraid of his 
legislation, sent him a diamond ring, which the Philosopher 



Vauxhall Gardens. 379 

to his immortal honour returned, saying (or something to 
that effect) that his object was not to receive rings from 
princes, but to do good to the world." The great jurist died 
at his house in Queen-square-place, on June 6th, 1832, 
agc;d 85 ; his death was 'singularly tranquil.' 

A broad embankment now extends the whole length of 
the river in front of Millbank Prison. Leaving the river at 
the Vauxhall-road pier, a broad and open thoroughfare 
conducts us to Vauxhall-bridge, passing Millbank Slate 
Wharf (acquired by the Vestry in 1891 for their purposes), 
Victoria-wharf, Parliament-wharf, and Baltic-wharf in the 
possession of Mr. S. Nash Castle. 

The whole riverside thoroughfare from Lambeth- bridge 
to Chelsea-embankment is now known as Grosvenor-road. 
That part of it mentioned above between the Prison and 
Vauxhall-bridge was, until 1876, called Ponsonby-street. 
The other half of the crescent facing the approach to the 
bridge, on the south side, was known as "Trinity-terrace." 

By an Order of the Metropolitan Board of Works, dated 
4th August, 1876, the subsidiary names of Millbank-row, 
Ponsonby-street, Crescent-terrace, and Trinity-terrace were 
abolished, and the whole line of thoroughfare from 
Lambeth-bridge to Chelsea-bridge rc-named Grosvenor- 
road and re-numbered. Millbank-row is now known as 
I to 18, Grosvenor-road ; Ponsonby-street extended from 
the prison to Vauxhall-bridge ; Crescent-terrace is now 
46 to 57, Grosvenor-road ; and Trinity-terrace 68 to 
75, Grosvenor-road. Millbank-street now extends from 
Abingdon-street to Lambeth-bridge. 

Inasmuch as Vauxhall-bridge owes not only its name 
but its origin to the famous Gardens which once adorned 
the Surrey side of the Thames over against Millbank, it 
may be permitted to say a few words respecting them. 
The place had been a public resort since the days of 
Charles the Second, when they were known as the New 
Spring Gardens ; but the unique celebrity of the Gardens 



380 Millbank. 

dates from 1732, when on June 7th they were opened with 
an entertainment called Ridotto al fresco^ at which the 
Prince of Wales was present, the majority of the company 
appearing in masks and dominos. The place soon became 
of world-wide renown for its walks, lit with thousands of 
lamps ; its musical and other entertainments ; its statues 
and pictures ; its suppers — not forgetting the delicious ham 
cut in slices of wafery thinness ; and its fireworks. Its 
gaieties have been described by Fielding in his Amelia^ 
1751 ; also by Goldsmith in his Citi::en of the World, in 
which he is enraptured with " the lights glimmering through 
the scarcely moving trees ; the full bodied concert bursting 
on the stillness of night ; the company gaily dressed, and 
the tables spread with various delicacies." The Gardens 
were finally closed in 1859, after low prices had brought 
low companies. The most profitable season was that of 
1823, when there were 133,279 visitors, the receipts 
amounting to ^^29,590. 

We may be sure that during the halcyon days of 
Vauxhall-gardens, crowds were wont to gather on Millbank 
to watch the pyrotechnic and hydropyric displays across 
the water. On one occasion, July 20, 1802, when a grand 
fire balloon was sent up by M. Garnerin, the crowd of 
spectators was astonishing; the highways and lanes in the 
neighbourhood were filled from side to side; and West- 
minster-bridge for half-an-hour was completely impassable. 
At other times the fireworks of Signor Ruggiert or Madame 
Hengler would be the attraction. — 

" Oh ! Mrs. Hengler !— Madam, — I beg pardon. 

Starry Enchantress of the Surrey Garden I 

Accept an ode not meant as any scoff — 

The Bard were iDold hideed at thee to quiz, 

Whose squibs are far more popular than his ; 

Whose works are much more certain to go off ! 

Strange helps to thy applause too are not missing ; 
Thy Rockets raise thee, 
And Serpents praise thee. 

As none beside are ever praised — by hissing ! " 

Hood. 



A capacious tree. 381 

Mr. Percy Fitzgerald in his recently published Picturesque 
London* takes particular notice of the grotesque figure- 
heads at Mr. Castle's Baltic-wharf (i 59-161, Grosvenor- 
road) — 

At Vauxhall Bridge we come to a curious conceit that would have 
' arrided ' — Lamb's word — the heart of Dickens. Here is a large yard 
devoted to the sale of ship timber, for which old vessels of course are 
bought and broken up. But there remain always the old figure-heads 
— strange, curious, gigantic efforts, that make one wonder what 
manner of man the designer was. Nor are they without merit or 
spirit. They rise towering with a strange stark air, and look over the 
wall with much of the dazed astonishment the animals showed in 
Charles Lamb's copy of Stackhouse's Bible. Here are Dukes of York 
with a fatuous e.xpression, the Janet Simpson, or Lady Smith, and Iron 
Dukes — all, it must be said, wrought rather vigorously, and looking 
with eternal solemnity over the wall, each some six or eight feet high, 
to the surprise of the stranger. The natives are familiar with them. 

In the Grace Gollection of Prints (British Museum) there 
is an interesting pencil sketch by W. Gapon, dated 1798 
(June 10), being "a view in Tothill-fields near the Timber 
Yard," and showing an old tree in which was a table and 
seat for three persons. A pencil note by the artist reads — 
" In this tree was a table and seat for three persons to sit 
and to drink, &c. ; they went up by pieces nailed across 
the tree like a ladder. It was cut down to make way for 
the new Vauxhall-bridge." (Portfolio XIV., No. 2.) 

In 1809 a company was incorporated for the purpose of 
" building a bridge from the south side of the river at or 
near Gumberland-gardens, or Vauxhall turnpike, in Lam- 
beth, to the opposite shore, called Millbank, in the parish of 
St. John, Westminster,"^ — the 49 Geo. III. c. 142. 

The scheme was originally planned in 1808 by Mr. Ralph 
Dodd,-f- the civil engineer (1761- 1822) and projector of 
tunnels, who certainly seems, says Gharles Knight "to have 
had the misfortune of constanth' witnessing other men 
reaping the honours he had sown.";!: The company were 
to be repaid by tolls, and one of the promised great sources 

* Picturesque London, 1890, p. 270. 

t Father of George Dodd, who designed Waterloo Bridge. 

X Cyclopadia. 



382 Mil/bank. 

of profit which induced the original subscribers to embark 
on the undertaking, was the expected traffic from visitors on 
foot and in vehicles to Vauxhall-gardens. Hitherto people 
came thither by coaches to the waterside and thence by 
wherry-boats to Vauxhall-stairs, as described in Fielding's 
Amelia. The gardens, it is true, survived the opening of 
the bridge nearly a quarter of a century, but it is by no 
means uncertain that the presence of so incongruous a thing 
as an iron bridge did not help them on the downward way. 

The beginning of the new bridge was most inauspicious, 
for disputes and dissensions of a remarkable kind attended 
it throughout. Dodd was dismissed in favour of Mr. (after- 
wards Sir) John Rennie, and the works for the building of 
the new bridge were not commenced until May 9, 181 1, 
when the first stone of the pier on the Middlesex side, 
begun by Mr. Rennie, was laid by Lord Dundas as proxy 
for the Prince Regent (afterwards George IV.). On that 
day the weather was so stormy that, although the coins, 
etc., were duly deposited by the Regent's proxy, the stone 
had to be left for the time uncovered. Mr. Rennie in his 
turn quarrelled with the directors, and the project was 
handed over to Sir Samuel Bentham.* After that the 
works were suspended for a couple of years, Sir Samuel 
retiring in his tuni, and finally Mr. James Walker, the 
architect, whom the Corporation of London had deputed 
to inspect the works, took up the enterprise. Another Act 
of Parliament was passed — 52 Geo. Ill, c. 147 — and another 
ceremony of laying a " foundation stone on the opposite side 
was performed on August 21, 181 3, by Prince Charles, the 
eldest son of the Duke of Brunswick, who so soon after fell 
on the glorious field of Waterloo" — 

"Within a winnowed niche of that high hall 
Sate Brunswick's fated chieftain ; he did hear 
That sound, the first amidst the festival. 
And caught its tones with Death's prophetic ear ; 

* Both Mr. Walcott pnd Mr. Knight make the strange mistake of con- 
founding Jeremy Bentham with his l)rother Sir Samuel, the engineer and 
inventor. 



Vauxhall-b^'idge. 383 

And when they smiled because he deemed it neai, 
His heart more truly knew that peal too well 
Which stretched his father on a bloody bier, 
And roused the veng^eance blood alone could quell ; 
He rushed into the field, and, foremost fighting, fell I " 

liVKON. 

The change from stone to iron was made on grounds 
of economy, the new Act of 1812 being obtained for the 
purpose ; but unfortunately progress had been made with 
the foundations, so that the nine arches, each of only 78 
feet span, had to be retained. The entire work was 
finished in 1816, and it was opened on June 4th of that 
year. The iron superstructure was cast at Butterly in 
Derbyshire, and consists as already mentioned, of nine 
equal arches, each of 78 feet span, supported on eight 
rusticated stone piers, each 13 feet wide above low water 
level, built on a foundation of wooden framing cased with 
stone. 

The piers thus occupy about 104 feet of the waterway, 
or about one-eighth of the total width of the river 
between the abutments. The length of the bridge 
between the abutments is 809 feet, and its width 
between the parapets ^6 feet 3 inches, having a carriageway 
24 feet, and two footways each 6 feet 13^ inches wide. 
The superstructure of each arch consists of 10 cast iron 
ribs 18 inches deep, spaced about 4 feet apart, and they 
support the vertical cast iron spandril standards upon which 
rest the ribbed cast iron plates which retain the macadam 
roadway filling. The heights of the soffits of the arches at 
the centre of the bridge vary from 26-5 feet to i7'0 feet 
above Trinity high water at the centre of the arches 
adjoining the abutment.s. The prevailing gradient over the 
bridge is about i in 35. The gradient on the Middlesex 
approach is i in 29, and that on the Surre)- approach 
I in 30. 

Vauxhall was nearly the earliest of the cast-iron metro- 
politan bridges, Southwark being its junior by a year or 



384 Millbank. 

two. The bridge cost ;^2 59,681 to build ; in 1849-50 its 
half-year's clear revenue from tolls was £2^<^'^6 3s. 4d. 
The roadway on the south side crosses the site of the 
Cumberland Tea Gardens. The bridge was purchased by 
the Metropolitan Board of Works for ;i^7 5,000, and was 
freed from toll on May 24th, 1879.* The muddle and ill- 
luck which characterised the early history of the bridge has 
never forsaken it, and now after an uneventful existence <:>{ 
some ']6 years, it is doomed to disappear and make way 
for a structure better suited to meet " not only the pressing 
needs of the present time, but those of future generations."-f- 
An examination of the pier foundations made by a diver 
in 1887 showed that the bottom of the timber cradles upon 
which the piers are founded were in several places four or 
five inches above the level of the clay bed of the river, caused 
by the scour of the current which flows through the narrow 
arches at an extreme velocity — at times the ebb tide runs 
through with a surface velocity of 7^ miles an hour. When 
wind and tide are both ahead, it has been no uncommon sight 
to see one of the Chelsea steamboats put its passengers 
ashore short of their destination after fruitless efforts to 
stem the force of the current ; barges are occasionally car- 
ried on to the piers to the injury of both ; and in several 
instances lives have been lost. When in addition to this 
are borne in mind its paltry dimensions, its cruelly steep 
approaches, the increased traffic owing to the enlargement 
of Vauxhall station, the weak condition of Lambeth 
bridge, and the need for continuous tram communication 
between Victoria and Vauxhall railway stations, it must be 
confessed that it has not been condemned a day too soon. 
The London County Council propose (1892) to construct a 
five-arch steel bridge with granite faced piers and abut- 
ments, the width between the parapets to be 80 feet. The 
cost is estimated to be about ^380,000. To accommodate 
the traffic durino; the re-building of Vauxhall-bridge it is 



■ See p. 345. t Report of Bridges Committee of County Council, July, 1892. 



The Neat-houses. 385 

proposed to build a wooden bridge, not less than 50 feet 
wide, to cross from the extreme western end of the Albert- 
embankment to Millbank. The cost of this temporary 
bridge is estimated at ;^30,ooo. 

From Mr. I'imbs' Curiosities of London we learn that the 
low grounds west of this bridge, " formerly known as the 
Neathouse Gardens, were elevated to a level with the 
Pimlico-road, by transporting hither the soil excavated 
from St. Katherine's Docks ; and upon this artificial 
foundation several streets were built." The docks in 
question were partially opened for business in 1828. 

The Neat-houses, which once existed hereabouts, having 
been mentioned, the occasion may opportunely serve for 
a closer examination of this ill-defined district, whose only 
landmark for centuries was a parcel of rude outlying sheds 
belonging to some prudent husbandman, recalling Virgil's 
description : — 

" In th' evening to a fair ensuing day 
With joy he sees his flocks and kids to play. 
And loaded kine about his cottage stand 
Inviting with known sound the milker's hand." 

Cow LEV ; trans. I'irg. Georg. 

The precise locality of the Neat-houses has been a vexed 
question with most antiquarians who have written of West- 
minster and Chelsea ; and indeed so many changes have 
taken place in the topographical surroundings and appear- 
ance of this part of the metropolis, that uncertainty is easily 
excusable. Such old maps as show them are by no means 
reliable, by reason of the disappearance of old land-marks, 
of the alteration in the line of river-shore, and, it must be 
added, of the fact that the draughtsmen in days gone by 
did not pay so much attention ' to scale ' as would now be 
observed. But excuses for them can be found in the fact 
that this part c^f the world was, even in the present century, 
a tej'ra incognita of pasture, market-gardens, and common, 
relieved only by some sheds " for cattle of the ox kind." 

As we approach the question of their exact position, we 



386 TJie Neat-houses. 

find that John, fifth son of Richard, Duke of York, was 
born at the Manor House of Neyte, Nov. 7, 1448. The 
site of the Neat-houses is described in a grant in the Clause 
Rolls, 28 Henry VHI. (1538) as the "Manor of Neyte, 
with the precinct of water called the Mote of the said 
Manor." This manor, Dean Stanley tells us " by the river- 
side at Chelsea, was a favourite country-seat of the Abbots. 
There Littlington and Islip died." It was, with the manor 
of Hyde, exchanged with Henry VHI. for Hurley.* The 
Dean also mentions that famous John of Gaunt borrowed 
the Manor House from the Abbot for his residence during 
Parliament.-]- King Edward VI. granted to Sir Anthony 
Brown, Master of the Horse (one of the regents appointed 
by King Henry's will) " the house called the Neate and all 
the site, circuit, ambit and premises thereto belonging, late 
parcel of the possessions of Westminster Abbey, and 
situated in the parish of St. Martin-in-the-Fields," to Sir 
Anthony Browne, on June 28, in the first year of his reign 
(1547). So much for the manor. Strype's Stowe mentions 
the Neat-houses as noted for garden produce. : — - 

" The Neat Houses are a parcel of Houses most seated on the banks 
of the river Thames, and inhabited lay gardeners, for which it is of 
note for the supplyhig London and Westminster Markets with As- 
paragus, Artichokes, Cauhflowers, Muskmelons, and the hke useful 
things, which by reason of their keeping the ground so rich by dunging 
it (and through the nearness of London they have the soil cheap) doth 
make their crops very forward, to their great profit, in coming to such 
good markets." 

It should be particularly noticed that he places them i" 
Westminster. Under the heading, " For the Adjacent or 
Out Parts of the Parish," he speaks of the Neat-houses as 
above, and then of Knightsbridge. 

Pepys knew them, as is shown by more than one entry 

in his oft-quoted Diary : — 

"■Aug: I, iddy. . . . After the play, we went mto the house, 
and spoke with Knipp, who went abroad with us by coach to 

* Dugdale L, 282. 
^ Archtcological Journal, No. 1 14, p. 144. 



Their situation. 387 

the Neat Houses in the way to Chelsy ; and there, in a box 
in a tree, we sat and sang, and talked and eat ; my wife out 
of humour, as she always is, when this woman is by. So, 
after it was dark, we [went] home. Set Knipp down at home, 
who told us the story how Nell is gone from the King's house 
and is kept by my Lord Buckhurst . . . ." 

" May sS, 166S. . . . Met Mercer and Gayet, and took them 
by water, first to one of the Neat Houses, where walked m 
the garden, but nothing but a bottle of wine to be had, though 
pleased with seeing the garden; a;id so fo Fox //a//, where 
with great pleasure we walked " 

The gardens were evidently in his time a place of resort 
for ai fresco entertainment. Richard, Lord Braybrooke, 
Pepys' best editor, says in a foot-note anent the Neat-house 
gardens : " They seem to have been situated at or near 
Millbank." The words of the-diarist, " and so to Fox Hall," 
are significant that they must have been quite close to the 
river bank, whence Pepys and his party could take boat to 
cross over to the gardens of Vauxhall. 

And yet elsewhere Pepys writes — 

"We hear that Madame Ellen Gwyn's mother, sitting lately by the 
water side at her house by the Neate Houses, near Chelsea, fell acci- 
dently into the water and was drowned." 

In the report entitled Local Government in Westmitister, 
published by the United Vestry in 1889, it is made to 
appear, from the best evidence then to hand, that the Neat- 
houses were situated exclusively in that part of the parish 
of St. Martin-in-the-fields which now forms part of St. 
George's, Hanover-square. The truth of the matter is, there 
were Neat-houses on botJi sides of the King's Scholars'-pond, 
the " thin stream " which then (as now) constitutes the 
boundary between the two parishes. Colour was given to 
the error (if such it can be called) in the report above 
mentioned, by the discovery in the Vestry minutes, then 
for the first time .systematically exploited, of a proposal 
made at a Vestry meeting on Sunday, 18th November, 
171 1, to surrender the Hamlet of Knightsbridge for the 



388 The Neat-houses. 

Neat-houses ; as also by a quotation made by Peter 
Cunningham from the accounts of the overseers of St. 
Martin-in-the-Fields : — 

The xiij'h daie of Maie 1621 To the iiij bearers for bring'ing 
the drownd woman from the Thames near the Neate 
House ... ... ... ... ... ... ... \\\]d. 

Nothing could be more explicit than the Vestry's resolu- 
tion just referred to : — 

iSth November^ lyii. — That Mr Thomas Wisdome & Mr Tho^ 
Yeomanes be desired to goe to Mr Eh'idge Clerk of the 
Vestry of St. Martin's in the Feilds in order to treat with 
some of the Gent^ of the Vestry belonging to the said Parish 
relating to the Neathouses being taken into this Parish of 
St. Margtt Westm'' t& to Offer them in Liew thereof the 
Hamlett of Knightsbridge within this Parish. 

It should here be explained that the parish of St. Martin- 
in-the-Fields, originally taken from St. Margaret's parish, 
extended along the line now known as the King's Scholars' 
pond sewer, to the river side, from a point just to the west 
of the present Vauxhall bridge to the junction with Chelsea, 
and passed northwards again along the line of the West- 
bourne river, now the Ranelagh sewer, until the area was 
assigned to the parish of St. George, Hanover-square, upon 
its foundation in 1725. 

Hatton in his New View of London^ 1708, says, " the 
Parish of St. Martin extended to the Thames near Chelsea." 
There is therefore strong evidence to show that certain Neat 
Houses and " the manor of Neate in the parish of St. Martin 
in the Fields," granted by Edward VI. to Sir A. Brown, 
were certainly " beyond the limits of the ancient parish," to 
quote the words of the Vestry report of 1889. But it is 
equally certain that there were Neat-houses — perhaps of a 
later date--within the parish of St. John, near the Millbank. 

In a rate made in St. John's parish, in the spring of 1782, 
there are 20 properties assessed under the head of " Neat- 



The Salishiry estate. 389 

houses." They are entered in the book between " Millbank- 
street East " and " Millbank," and inckide : — 

Mr. Adams & Archibald Campbell, bank for 1 

laying timber \ Assessed at ^15. 

Benj. Hodges, Distill-house and Vinegar Yard ■) 

Benj. Hodges for slip of land 3 Assessed at ^50. 

Major Griffiths, in Memorials of Millbank, mentions that 
"a large distillery, owned by a Mr. Hodge, stood near the pro- 
posed site of the prison." These Neat-houses "between Mill- 
bank-street East and Millbank," can therefore be fixed with 
sufficient exactness as somewhere close to the spot now 
covered by Purbeck-place, north of the prison. 

A plan preserved in the British Museum (Grace Gollection, 
Portf. XI, 13), of the estate belonging to the Marquis of 
Salisbury, at Millbank, dated 1780, is described by a key, 
which makes it perfectly clear that the properties, mentioned 
in the rate-book, occupied by Mr. Hodges and others, were 
situated close to the river bank (now Grosvenor-road), and 
separated from the water by a foot-path. A tea garden and 
house, very likely that known to Pepys, overlooked the 
water's edge. A considerable area of meadow land, with 
sheds, &c., was in the rear. The leases appear to have 
expired in 1803, so far as these houses were concerned. 

In September, 1831, the tender of "John Hall, of 
Neat Ho. Barn, Thames Bank," for scavenging, etc., was 
accepted by the Paving Gommissioners. Still further 
evidence is afforded of the existence of Neat-houses within 
the boundaries of the parish, by a correspondence which 
took place between the Gommissioners and the Dean and 
Ghapter, in 1822, respecting a bar, *' put up with the view 
of preventing carts and carriages crossing the fields by 
Rochester-row in winter and wet weather, in order to 
preserve the way or approach to the houses in Rochester- 
row from being cut up." The Ghapter Glerk replied that — 

"It never was the wish of the Dean and Chapter to withdraw 
entirely the kindness of permitting the Inhabitants of the Neat Houses 
and Lands adjoining making use of the convenience of the P'ields as 

2 A 



390 Puss in a parachute. 

a Way at proper times. Pretensions to a right of Way have been 
claimed by the Proprietors of the Neat Houses and Lands, but whom 
I conceive have not the shadow of a right, and the Dean and Chapter 
in return for their kindness threat'ned with legal proceedings, and Acts 
of violence, if the Bar was shut, even on a Sunday. To avoid tumult 
and litigation it has been left open." 

" It was within one of the Neat-house-gardens near this 

bank," says the author of A Book for a Rainy Day, " that 

Garnerin's kitten descended from the balloon which 

ascended from Vauxhall-gardens in the year 1802. This 

descent is thus handed down in a song attributed to George 

Colman the younger, entitled 

" Puss IN A Parachute. 
" Poor puss in a grand parachute, 

Was sent to sail down through the air, 
Plump'd into a garden of fruit, 

And played up old gooseberry there. 
The gardener, transpiring with fear, 

Started just like a hundred stuck hogs ; 
And swore, though the sky was quite clear, 

'Twas beginning to rain cats and dogs. 
" Mounseer, who don't value his life. 

In the Thames would have just dipped his wings. 
If it vasn't for vetting his vife. 

For vimcn are timbersom things : 
So at Hampstead he landed her dry ; 

And after this dangerous sarvice. 
He took a French leave of the sky 

And vent back to Vauxhall in a Jarvis." 




What, will you walk with me about the town ? " 391 
Chapter XIII. 



STREETS AND PLACES. 



" By thee transported, I securely stray 

Where winding alleys lead the doubtful way ; 
The silent court and opening square explore 
And long perplexing lanes untrod before." — Gav. 

" Here, you earth-born souls still speak 
To mortals, of their little week ; 
Of their sorrows and delights ; 
Of their passions and their spites ; 
Of their glory and their shame ; 
What doth strengthen and what maim. 
Thus ye teach us, every day. 
Wisdom, though fled far away." — Keats. 

" Great men have been among us ; hands that penned 

And tongues that uttered wisdom, better none !" — Wordsworth. 

The pleasures of the town archfeologist. — London's many-sidedness. — 
Disappearance of sign-boards — Old Westminster signs. — Lighting, 
and Street Nomenclature. — Abingdon-street and Dirty-lane. — 
Telford. — • Delaval's House. — John Churchill. — Arneway-street. — 
Barton and Cowley-streets. — An eminent actor and a little-read 
poet. — Dr. A. Bell. — Dr. Carey.— Chadwick-street. — Gt. College- 
street.- — Gibbon and Keats. — The Wesleys. — Ginger's. — The Dead 
Wall. — Walcott and Thorns. — Hutton. — Douglas-street. — Fynes- 
street. — Grey-coat-place. — Horseferry-road and Market-street. — 
Laundry-yard. — Charles Marsham,Earlof Romney. — Vine-street and 
Charles Churchill. — Monck-street. — EUiston. — Orchard-street. — 
" John Buncle." — Peabody-buildings. — Pear-street. — Page-street. — 
Holywell-street. — Peter-street. — R. Cumberland. — Old and New Pye 
streets. — De Groot. — Perkin's rents. — Regency-street. — Rochester- 
row. — A troublesome ditch.— St. Ann's lane and street. — Robert 
Herrick. — Purcell. — Dr. Heather. — Rushworth. — Mob violence. — 
Vagabondiana. — St. John-street. — Duck-lane. — Smith-square. — Gt. 
Smith-street. — Southerne, Steele, Nichols, and Dilke. — Strutton- 
ground. — Tufton-street and Bowling-alley. — Col. Blood, who stole 
the Crown.— Vauxhall-bridge-road. — Five Chimney-court. — War- 
wick-street. — The Willow Walk. — Wheeler-street and Wood-street. 

— John Carter. 

''pHE poet Shelley, in his Letter to Maria Gisborne, ad- 
dresses her — 

You are now 
In London, that great sea, whose ebb and flow 
At once is deaf and loud, and on the shore 
Vomits its wreaks, and still howls on for moie. 
Yet in its depths what treasures ! 
The inhabitants of We.stminstcr are " citizens of no mean 
city"; and for such of them as take more than a bird's-eye 

2 A 3 



392 Pleasures of the town archcEologist. 

view of their city, or even of that part of it which ' our 
parish ' forms, there are indeed in its depths treasures 
hitherto untold ! In the words of Dean Stanley, " it is the 
peculiar compensation to the inhabitants of a city like this, 
that what others gain from the study and enjoyment of 
Nature, you may gain from the study and enjoyment of 
history. What geology, mineralogy, and botany are to the 
dwellers in rustic parishes, that history is to the occupants 
of streets, the neighbours of houses, whose very names are 
famous. The pleasure which a botanist finds in the flowers 
along the common pathways of his daily walks ; the plea- 
sure which the geologist finds in hills, valleys, roads, and 
railroads, as if their very sides were hung with beautiful 
pictures, which to him alone are visible, this same pleasure 
is given to the historian as he looks at the buildings, as he 
sees the names of even the commonest streets in London." 

" Houses and streets are indeed only the work of man," 
says Walcott, writing in a similar strain, " but it must be a 
cold superficial mind that can detect in them only a wide 
blank and monotonous league of weary masonry " ; and it 
is with a contemptuous scorn that Lawrence Sterne in the 
Sentimental J our7iey, pities the man " who can travel from 
Dan to Beersheba and cry, 'Tis all barren." 

It is well-known that Walpole had projected a work on 
the lines of a French book, Anecdotes des Rues de Paris, 
wherein he intended, in imitation of the French original, 
to have pointed out the streets and places where any re- 
markable incident had happened ; " but," he says, " I found 
the labour would be too great, in collecting material from 
various streets, and I abandoned the design, after having 
written about ten or twelve pages."* It may well be 
believed that the cultured dilettante soon became appalled 
at the literary Frankenstein he raised up for himself: it 
has been a matter of astonishment for the compiler of 
these notes to find while prosecuting the work of re- 
search that such a small, out-of-the-way part of London 
* Walpoliana, Vol. I, 



" Ve^, sure/}', surely, these zvere famous nieuP 393 

as ' our parish,' only dating its creation from 1728, and 
built upon or in the immediate vicinity of marshy fields, 
which Bentham stigmatised as being in no neighbourhood 
at all, should contain, within its narrow limits, so great a 
variety of historical and literary association. No more be- 
fitting words were ever spoken than those of Dean Stanley, 
quoted above. The narrow unpretentious streets and the 
dirty courts and lanes of St. John's parish, become vested 
with a new interest when connected with such names as 
Keats, Herrick, Cumberland the dramatist, Churchill, 
Southerne, Gibbon, Thorns, Steele, and Turcell — to mention 
only a few. Dr. Johnson is recorded by the faithful 
Boswell to have remarked, "If you wish to have a just 
notion of the magnitude of the City, you must not be 
satisfied with seeing its great streets and squares, but 
must survey the innumerable little lanes and courts. It is 
not in the showy evolutions of buildings, but in the 
multiplicity of human habitations which are crowded 
together, that the wonderful immensity of London con- 
sists " ; and Boswell himself writes, " I have often amused 
my.self with thinking how different a place London is to 
different people." It is, as it were, a mirror of innumerable 
facets, where each observer from every point of view, finds, 
according to his idiosyncrasy and temperament, the 
reflexive image of his own mind. To Carlyle it is " the 
tuberosity of modern civilisation," to Gray " a tiresome dull 
place," to Southey " a maze," to Cobbett " the great Wen," 
to Walpole "the .securest solitude," and to Burke, "clean, 
commodious, neat, an endless addition of littleness to 
littleness." 

According to Leigh Hunt, it was in the reign of Charles 
the First that the City of Westminster first began to spread 
out across the fields {The Tozon, Vol. I.), and John 
Northouck, in \vlS, Nezv History of London (1773), speaks 
with approbation of the streets of Westminster as being 
more open and regular, compared with those of London. 



394 Streets and places. SJiop signs. 

In 1760 names were first placed upon doors; in 1764 
houses were first numbered ; gas first appeared in West- 
minster streets in 181 3 ; road watering was commenced in 
1825. The house signs of London did not begin to 
disappear until 1766, and the projecting signs and sign- 
boards of the shop-keepers had riot all been taken down at 
the commencement of the present century. True, the art 
of reading, which may be said to have become a general 
acquirement by the middle of the eighteenth century, 
diminished the necessity for the retention of such signs ; 
nevertheless the absence of any general system of numbering 
the houses, which system had commenced in Paris as early 
as 1 5 12, justified, to some extent, the retention of the 
signs, while many of the shop-keepers clung to the traditions 
of their fathers in that respect. Gay, in his Trivia^ points 
out some of the advantages of shop signs : — 

If drawn by bus'ness to a street unknown 
Let the sworn porter point thee through the town ; 
Be sure observe the Signs, for Signs remain 
Like faithful landmarks to the walking train. 

The same observant poet discovers another use, even in 
the dissonant creaking of the signs, as affording a hint to 
the wayfarer and the lounger, either to hurry home or to 
hail a sedan-chair or a coach ; — 

But when the swinging signs your ears offend 
With creaking noise, then rainy floods impend. 

A print preserved in the Grace Gollection at the British 
Mu.seum shows the sign of the ' Sugar Loaf suspended from 
a grocer's shop, in Orchard-street, so recently as 1840; the 
linen for the purposes of the church was obtained at 
'The Sun'; and other articles of drapery were purchased 
of Mr. Johnston, of ' The Ship, in Smith-street, near 
Dean's-yard ' ; oilman's goods were supplied by Mr. 
Stephen FitzGerald of ' The Olive Tree, in Millbank-street, 
near the Horse Ferry'; and the silk-mercer's goods were 
procured from ' The Grown and Pearl.' 



" W/iafs tlie reason of these arms ? " 395 

Most of the old Westminster signs were historical, and 
many in the vicinity of the Abbey bore religious charges. 
Signs are now only retained by public-houses, and we 
still have in St. John's the ' Salutation ' * (of the Virgin) in 
Barton-street, the 'White Hart,' the badge of Richard II., 
Grosvenor-road ; the ' Brown Bear ' of the Warwicks, in 
Marsham-street ; the ' White Swan,' badge of Henry V. ; 
and the ' Old Rose,' badge of the Tudors. 

Many of them denote the former rural character of the 
locality — the ' Barley Mow ' and ' White Horse and Bower,' 
in Horseferry-road ; the 'Three Elms,'"- Great Peter-street; 
the ' Wheatsheaf,' the ' Plough,' and the ' Three Jolly Gar- 
deners,' in Rochester- row ; and the ' Ramblers' Rest,' in 
Rochester-street — who would think of rambling there now? 
Ground landlords are represented by the ' Westminster 
Arms,' Gro.svenor Arms,' ' Morpeth Arms,' ' Bessborough 
Arms,' ' Ponsonby Arms,' and ' Rochester Arms ' ; while 
Labour displays its cognisances at the ' Paviors' Arms,' the 
'Builders' Arms,' and the 'Bricklayers' Arms.' The loyalty 
and patriotism of Westminster are shown by many inn- 
signs — in fact, the majority of them are .so derived. We 
have, in St. John's parish alone, ' William the P'ourth,' 
'George the Fourth,' 'Prince of Wales,' ' Duke of York,' 
'Duke of Clarence,' 'Prince Alfred,' 'Regent Arms,' 'King's 
Head,' ' King's Arms,' ' Queen's Head,' ' Queen's Arms,' 
the ' Crown,' the ' Crown and Sceptre,' the ' Thistle and 
Crown,' and the 'Royal Oak' ; and for patriotism, 'Admiral 
Nelson,' ' Lord High Admiral,' 'Lord Clyde,' the 'Welling- 
ton,' the ' Rifleman,' and the ' Volunteer.' Four ' Ships ' 
are in full sail with one ' Cabin ' amongst them, presumably 
overlooked by 'Britannia'; while "the trade" itself is 
represented by a brace of 'Two Brewers,' and the 'Brewers' 
Arms.' 

Holywell-strect, Esher-strect, Earl-street, John.son-street, 
Kensington-place, Grosvenor-street, Hudson's-terrace, and 

* Recently discontinued as pulilic-houses. 



396 Streets and places. Nomenclature. 

Wilton-street, were first lighted and taken under the juris- 
diction of the Paving Commissioners in 1830. They had 
been built some few years previously. Medway-street, 
Allington-street, and Ship-court were not taken under con- 
trol by the Commissioners until 1848. 

The nomenclature of the streets in ' our parish ' is easily 
divisible into six several groups : (i) names having relation 
to the Abbey and the ancient monastery, as for instance, 
Bowling-alley, Vine-street, Orchard-street, Great and Little 
Peter-street, Dean-street (now Great Smith-street), College- 
street, and Millbank ; (2) names traceable to the ground 
landlords, owners, or builders ; (3) names in honour of the 
Royal House ; (4) names of direct association with other 
local objects of importance, as Horseferry-road, Vauxhall- 
bridge-road, Grey-coat-place, St. John's-street, Church- 
street, North-street, Artillery-row, &c. ; (5) names com- 
memorating persons of local fame, such as Monck-street, 
Chadwick-street, Walcott-street, Arneway-street, Johnson- 
street, Page-street, and Pye-street (Old and New) ; and (6) 
names of the fancy and imagination, concerning which it 
may be said that the more petty the property the more 
euphonious the title. 

It has long been a well-established usage in the metro- 
polis (and indeed it is general all over England) to name 
new streets after the christian and surname, titles and es- 
tates of the ground-landlords. This reasonable custom was in 
the 17th and i8th centuries carried to an extreme, of which 
instances can easily be found, on the Salisbury, Buckingham 
and Grosvenor estates. The last-mentioned family are trace- 
able in St. John's parish, in Grosvenor-road and street ; and 
Warwick-street and Tachbrook-street have been ascribed to 
the county and town- where the Grosvenor family have some 
property, as also is Lillington-street. Marsham-street, Earl- 
street, and Romney street are derived from Charles 
Marsham, Earl of Romney. Bessborough-gardens, street, 



" Using the names of men''' 397 

and place*, and Pon.sonby-place and terrace are said to owe 
their names to the freeholders of the lands on which they 
stand — the Ponsonby family, -f Earls of Bessborough, Pill- 
town, Ireland. The Dean and Chapter of Westminster own, 
as has been shown elsewhere, much of the acreage of the 
parish, and when Tothill-fields were being built upon the 
new streets were, in many cases, called after members of 
the capitular body. By this means the extent of the 
Ecclesiastical property in the parish can, in a great measure, 
be traced. There are, first of all, Deans-place (Dorset-street) 
and Chapter-street ; Vincent-square, street, row, court, and 
place ; Rochester-row, Allen-street, Carey-street, Edward- 
street, Bentinck- street, Fynes- street, Causton- street, 
Bell-street, Douglas-street, Frederick-street, Bloomburg- 
street. Wheeler-street, and Holland-street (now Monck- 
street). Medway-street may have been so-called because 
Rochester stands on the Medway, and the Deans of West- 
minster were Bishops of Rochester — such is the force of 
association. Cobourg-row was named after Prince Leopold 
of Saxe-Coburg, the husband of the Princess Charlotte ; 
and Brunswick-row in Grey-coat-place, and Brunswick-place 
in Regency-street bring to mind the Brunswick succession to 
the British Crown. Alfred-street was named after the 
youngest son of George III., Prince Alfred, who was born 
22nd September, 1780, and died 20th August, 1782. 
Allen-street, Rochester-row, is named after Canon Joseph 
Allen, 1806. 

Abinc.don-street — a continuation of Millbank-street, 
and forming the connecting link between Old Palace Yard 
and Millbank, derives its name from a mansion belonging 
to the Earls of Abingdon, which formerly stood here. At 
the commencement of the last century this street was 
known as Lindsey, or Lindsay-lane, the house in question 
having been previously in the possession of the Berties, 

* Buonaparte-cottages and Gun-terrace were incorporated as part of Bess- 
borough-place in 1886. 

t This requires confirmation, however. 



398 Streets and places. TJwnias Telford. 

Earls of Lindsey. In 1708 the same house afterwards 
became the residence of Dormer, Earl of Carnarvon. A 
gateway used to stand at the north of Lindsay-lane, down 
the narrow length of which the lumbersome state-carriage 
and eight heavily-caparisoned horses were driven into the 
courtyard of Lindsay House (at the south-west end of the 
street) in order to be turned round to take up the King 
when he returned from Parliament. The street was also at 
one time known as " Dirty Lane." At the commencement 
of the last century it was described, Walcott says, as a 
" narrow lane, pestered with coaches, which renders it dirty 
and inconvenient." (See also p. 339.J 

At No. 24 in this street died, on the 2nd September, 
1834, the eminent civil engineer, Thomas Telford, at the 
advanced age of jy. He constructed the Bridgewater 
canal, 1793 ; the Caledonian canal, 1823 ; the suspension 
bridge over the Menai straits, 1826; and the St. Katharine's 
docks, opened 1828. Born at Westerwick, in Dumfries- 
shire, on the 9th August, 1757, the son of a shepherd, who 
died while he was yet an infant, his life, observes a writer 
in the Transactions of the Institute of Civil Engineers, 
affords another striking instance of men who have, " by the 
force of natural talent, unaided save by uprightness and 
persevering industry, raised themselves from the low estate 
in which they were born, to take their stand among the 
master-spirits of their age." Telford, who also acquired 
some distinction as a poet in the robust, homely style of 
Ramsay and Fergusson, was of athletic form, and reached 
the age of 70 without any serious illness. He lies buried 
in Westminster Abbey.* 

In Abingdon-street lived also the eminent architect, 
Joseph Gwilt, four of whose sons were educated at West- 
minster School. 

Parliament-stairs (formerly called Queen's) were situated 
between Millbank and Abingdon-street. Here the Bishops 
* See his Life, edited by Rickman. 



Abingdon Street. 399 

used to land, coming from their palaces in the Strand and 
South wark in their state barges, rowed by boatmen in 
purple and white liveries. Archbishop Wake was the last 
Primate (1716 — 1737) who came from Lambeth across 'the 
silent highway ' of the Thames. 

Mr. J. T. Smith in his gossipy Book for a Rainy Day, 
writes as follows: — 

1801. 

In the autumn of this year I passed a most agreeable day with the 
Hon. Hussey Delaval, at his house near Padiament Stairs. This 
learned and communicative gentleman was as friendly to me, as the 
jealousy of that well-known odd compound of nature my antagonist, 
John Carter, who was of our party, would allow ; for with that artist's 
opinions as to Gothic architecture, Mr. Delaval so entirely coincided, 
that he employed him to provide the ornamental decorations of his 
house, which were mostly in putty, mixed with sand, and in some 
instances cast from the decorations of several Gothic structures, 
particularly Westminster Abbey. The apartments are ten in number, 
besides small offices. The lower rooms consist of two halls : in the 
north wall of the first are three pretty Gothic recesses for seats, for 
servants or persons in waiting ; the second hall is filled with Gothic 
figures placed upon brackets under canopies. The chimney-piece and 
other parts of the dining parlour looking over the Thames are 
decorated in a similar manner ; the kitchen is on the same floor 
towards the north. The staircase leadings to the first floor, is a truly 
tasteful little specimen, not equalled by anything at Strawberry Hill. 
The drawing room and library also look over the water. On the same 
floor are two bed chambers towards the west ; abo\e are two attics 
with a door opening upon the embattled leads over the drawing room. 
Upon these leads we took our wine, and here enjoyed the glowing 
Cuyp-like effect of the sun, upon west country barges laden either with 
blocks of stone, or fresh-cut timber, objects ever picturesque on the 
water. 

The Getitleinan s Magazine for May, 1799, informs us 
that on the 7th of that month — 

Mr. John Churchill, brother to the celebrated satirist, died at his 
house here. Jack Churchill (for such was the familiar name by 
which he was generally called by the numerous circle of friends who 
admired his good-humour and companionable qualities) possessed an 
uncommoh knowledge of mankind ; and no one had a more ready turn 
for repartee. His wit, though pointed, was so much softened by a 
jovial pleasantry, that the object of it was content to join in the laugh 
at his own expcnce without feeling any resentment. Mr. C. like his 
brother, was strongly inclined towards politicks. Mr. C.'s habits were, 
however, fixed too strongly before he ventured into public life to be 



400 Abingdon-buildings ; Arncway-street. 

very useful in such a situation ; for he was too social, and too much 
inclined to the enjoyment of private ease, for the spirit of ambition to 
be capable of rousing hnii into the continual exertion which public 
stations niight require. The illness which put a period to life had 
longed preyed upon him ; and it is to be regretted that it was not 
borne with the degree of fortitude that might have been expected from 
his good sense and manly character. 

Here also died in January, 1791, William Pearce, Esq., 
a nephew to the Bishop of Rochester. 

Pepys was a frequenter of the Heaven Tavern in 
Lindsay-lane, now the site of the Committee Rooms of the 
House of Commons. 

Abingdon-buildings — ran from Abingdon-street to 
the Thames, opposite Great-College-street. They were 
swept away on the erection of the new Houses of Parlia- 
ment. Mr. Barnard, who was tried on May nth, 1758, for 
addressing threatening letters to the Duke of Manchester, 
resided in Abingdon-buildings. 

It may be mentioned here that the Victoria Tower and 
the Chancellor's Court, Royal Gallery, and Royal Court of 
the House of Lords are in St. John's parish. 

Richard Cumberland (1732 — 18 11) after his marriage 
lived in Abingdon-buildings. 

Arneway-STREET — was known until 1889 as Allington- 
street, when it was re-named in order to avoid confusion 
with a street of the same name near Victoria-station, in the 
neighbouring parish, and at the same time to perpetuate 
the memory of Thomas Arneway, the founder of Arneway's 
Trust, which dates from 1603. Its object is to advance 
sums of money, not exceeding £200 each, to honest young 
men being occupiers or traders in Westminster, at three per 
cent, interest ; further particulars are given in The 
Parochial Charities of Westminster, 1890. In a recess in 
the wall of the north side of St. Margaret's Church is an 
antique monument of two figures in ruffles, kneeling on 
either side of a prie-dieu, with an inscription to the memory 



Artillery-row ; Barton-street ; Cowley-street. 401 

of Thomas Arneway (buried Dec. 8, 1603) ^ficl his wife 

Margaret, with some verses, of which the last line reads : — 

" Of such men as this Arnwaye God make the number large." 

Artillery-row — Artillery-place, Artillery-buildings, 
and Artillery-square (Strutton-ground), indicate more or 
less faithfully the old Artillery practice ground, where the 
men of Westminster at one time used to practice at the 
" Butts." {See page 282 ante). The name of Artillery-terrace 
(4 to 16, Artillery-row) was abolished in 1876. Part of 
Brewer's-green extended to the rear of the east side of 
Artillery-row. 

Barton-street and Cowley-street — were named 
after Barton Booth, the actor, much of whose property lay in 
Westminster. Cowley, in Middlesex, was the name of his 
country residence. This eminent actor, who was descended 
from an ancient and honourable Lancashire family, was born 
in 1 68 1, and educated at Westminster school under Dr. 
Busby. The grace of his action and the sweetness of his 
voice were first remarked in one of the school exhibitions, 
when the great applause he met with was, on his own con- 
fession, the first spur to his theatrical ambition. He ran 
away from Cambridge and joined a company of strolling 
players. He made his greatest "hit" in 17 12, when he 
identified himself with Addison's " Cato." His dignity, 
energy, and pathos as that lover of liberty were so con- 
summate, that on the first night Lord Bolingbroke and the 
Tories presented him with a purse of fifty guineas, col- 
lected in the boxes during the performance, "as a slight 
acknowledgment of his honest opposition to a per- 
petual dictator, and his dying so bravely in the cause of 
liberty."* Aaron Hill tells us that statistics proved 
that Booth could always obtain from eighteen to 
twenty rounds of applause during the evening. Booth's 
masterpiece as an actor is said by Cibber to have been 

* See Pope's letter to Trumbull, 30th April, 1713, where he describes the 
" first night." 



402 Streets and places. Barton Booth. 

Othello ; but his favourite part was the Ghost in " Hamlet," 
a performance, says Macklin, which has never been imitated 
successfully. His tone, his manner, and gait were so un- 
earthly, that the audience appeared to be under the im- 
pression that a positive spectre stood before them. Once 
when playing the Ghost to Betterton's " Hamlet," he is said 
to have been so horror-stricken as to be unable to proceed 
with his part. Booth often took inferior Shakespearian 
parts ; but if he saw a man in the audience whose good 
opinion he valued, he would fire up and play to him. 
Victor, speaking of his person, says " he was of a middle 
stature, five feet eight, his form rather inclining to the 
athletic, his air and deportment naturally graceful, with a 
marking eye, and a manly sweetness in his countenance. 
His voice was completely harmonious, from the softness of 
the flute to the extent of the trumpet." So much was he 
in favour with the rich and noble, that though he had no 
equipage of his own, there was not a nobleman in the 
kingdom, says Chetwood, who had so many sets of horses 
at his command. Booth was twice married ; first, in 1704 
to a daughter of Sir W. Barkham, and secondly, after nine 
years' widowerhood, to the beautiful and wealthy actress, 
Miss Hester Saintlow, the mistress, when young, of the 
great Duke of Marlborough, the " Santlow, fam'd for 
dance," commemorated by Gay, His will (printed in the 
London Magazine for 1733), bears strong testimony to his 
regard for her. This petted " actor-manager " died May 
lO) ^7l?>^ ^rid is buried at Cowley, near Uxbridge. His 
bust in Poets' Corner, erected by his second wife (who be- 
came Mrs. Laidlaw), in 1772, "is probably," says Dean 
Stanley, " as much owing to his connection with West- 
minster as to his histrionic talent." Pope makes frequent 
references to him — 

Booth enters — hark ! the universal peal ! 
" But has he spoken ? " Not a syllable. 
What shook the stage and made the people stare 1 
Cato's long wig, flow'red gown, and lacquered chair. 

Ep. I. 



Abraham Cowley. 403 

Or well-mouthed Booth with emphasis proclaims 
(Though but perhaps a muster-roll of names) — 

Sat. I. 

alluding to an absurd custom of actors in those days to 
pronounce with emphasis the mere proper names of Greeks 
and Romans, which, as they called it, ' filled the mouth of 
the player.' The poet, it should be mentioned, strongly 
disliked Barton Booth ; perhaps his ill-nature was not 
pleased with the universal popularity of the great actor. 

As we have seen, Walcott, and all who have copied him, 
are in error in supposing that Cowley-street was named 
after the poet. It is almost a pity that such is not the case, 
for not only was Abraham Cowley, an " old Westminster," 
but the quietude of this corner of Westminster would have 
suggested, in the fitness of things, that it should bear the 
name of the peace-loving essayist and poet, who tells us, in 
his essay On Myself- — 

As far as my memory can return back into my past life, before I 
knew or was capable of guessing what the world, or glories, or business 
of it were, the natural affections of my soul ga\e me a secret bent 
of aversion from them, as some plants are said to turn away from 
others, by an antipathy imperceptible to themselves and inscrutable to 
man's understanding. Even when I was a very young boy at school, 
instead of running aljout on holidays and playing with my fellows, I 
was wont to steal from them and walk into the fields, either alone with 
a book, or with some one companion, if I could find any of the same 
temper. 

This only grant me, that my means may be 
Too low for envy, for contempt too high. 

Some honour I would have, 
Not from great deeds, but good alone 
The unknown are better than ill known. 

Rumour can ope the gra\e ; 
Acquaintance I would have, but when it depends 
Not on the number but the choice of friends. 

It was in Tothill-fields that the gentle boy poet — who 
knew Spencer when he was but twelve — used listlessly to 
roam ' in maiden meditation.' He died 28th July, 1667, 
the year also of the death of Jeremy Taylor, who was so 
like him, and of the birth of Jonathan Swift, who was so 



404 Streets and places. An old inn. 

unlike him. To quote from the beautiful verses he himself 

wrote of his dear friend, William Hervey : — 

With as much zeal, devotion, piety, 
He always lived as other saints do die. 
Still with his soul severe account he kept, 
Weeping all debts out ere he slept ; 
Then down in peace and innocence he lay. 

Like the sun's laborious light, 

Which still in water sets at night, 
Unsullied with the journey of the day. 

At the corner of Barton-street (east side) with Great 
College-street, there is a stone built into the wall, cut with 
the name and date, " Barton-street, 1722." There is a 
similar stone at the corner of Cowley-street with Barton- 
street, but no date is given, or at any rate distinguishable. 
Both streets were undoubtedly built at the same time. 

Rebecca Aldridge, who left a bequest to the parish 
{see chap. XVI.), lived and died in Barton-street. 

Until three years ago the old ' Salutation ' public-house, 
which stood at the corner of Barton-street and Cowley- 
street, reminded us that inns in other days used frequently 
to bear signs of a religious character. Originally the sign 
represented the Virgin being saluted by the angel Gabriel. 
In the prayerful days of the Commonwealth, this sign, 
which was not uncommon in London (as may be seen from 
the tavern tokens preserved at the Guildhall Museum), 
became changed to the ' Soldier and Citizen,' the sign 
representing two men ceremoniously greeting each other. 
But though the sign may have changed, the purpose of the 
inn, for Roundhead or Cavalier, was ever the same. As 
the old-time Cockney poet, friend of Chaucer, quaintly 
confessed — 

The outward sign of Bacchus and his lure, 

That at his doore hangeth day by day, 
Exciteth folk to taste of his moisture 

So often that men cannot well say nay. 
For me, I say I was inclined aye 

Withouten danger thither for to hie me. 
But if such charge upon my back lay. 
That I mote it forbear as for a time. 

HOCCLBVB (1370-1454). 



TIic pfojcctor of tJic National School system. 405 

BelL-STREET, Vincent-square — was named after the 
(Treat educationalist, Dr. Andrew Bell, the only Scottish 
Prebendary of Westminster, born 1752. Dr. Bell's famous 
system of mutual instruction was first introduced at 
Madras, where he became chaplain, 1789. Coming to 
England he founded many elementary schools in London 
and elsewhere on what was known as the Madras scheme 
of education in I'^oj et seq. In fact he was the projector 
and founder of the " National Schools." During his 
residence in the East Indies Dr. Bell acquired considerable 
property which, with his preferments, enabled him to be- 
queath no less than ^120,000 in support of national institu- 
tions and public charities. This benevolent man died at 
Cheltenham, 27th January, 1832. He lies in the South 
aisle of the Abbey, his monument mistakenly giving the 
date of his installation as 18 10, instead of 18 19.* 

In Bell-street is Bell-court. 

BentincK-STREET — Vauxhall-bridge-road is so named 
after the Rev. W. H. E. Bentinck, Archdeacon and Pre- 
bendary of Westminster (1809), who built the beautiful 
church of Holy Trinity, in Bessborough-gardens, at the 
foot of Vauxhall-bridge. (Seepage 239.J 

BloOMBURG-STREET — as it is erroneously spelt, and 
Frederick-street, are named after Canon Frederick Blom- 
berg, 1808. Three houses on the west side of the Vauxhall- 
bridge-road, until 1890 considered as being in Bloomburg- 
street, were then made part of Charlwood-street. 

Carev-street, — Vincent-square, perpetuates the name 
in Westminster of William Carey, D.D. (born Nov. 18, 1769), 
a distinguished Westminster scholar. He stood head of the 
election to Oxford in 1789, and was appointed head-master 
of Westminster School in 1803, although his youth caused 
many to express disapproval. Dr. Carey was nominated a 
prebendary of Westminster in 1 809. In December, 1 8 14, he 

* Stanley's MeinQrials ; Die, of Nat. Biog. 

3 I^ 



4o6 Streets and places. 

resigned the head-mastership, and retired to his vicarage of 
Sutton-in-the-Forest, York. He was made Bishop of 
Exeter, 1820, and translated to the See of St. Asaph, 1830. 
He died Sept. 13, 1866. Bishop Carey bequeathed i^20,000 
to be invested in Three per cents., the interest of which was 
to be divided annually amongst the Westminster students 
at Christchurch, Oxford.* 

There is also a Carey-place in the Vauxhall-bridge-road. 
A Bedford-court was incorporated as part of Carey-place 
in 1886. 

Causton-street — was called after Canon Thomas 
Causton, 1799. In Causton-street are Clarke's-cottages 
and Gulston's-cottages. 

A Mr. Gulston was proprietor of the " White Hart," at 

the corner of Millbank-row, in 18 17. The name is an 

uncommon one, and it is a legitimate surmise that the 

respected bourgeois, Mr. Gulston, who was an active man 

in the parish, having built a row of cottages, boldly made 

answer to Cowley's question— 

What shall I do to be for ever known, 
And make the age to come my own ? 

by assigning his patronymic to a property which even 
Strype, in his most lenient mood, would have called " but 
ordinary." 

Chadwick-STREET — running south and west from Great 
Peter-street into the Horseferry-road, was known until 1889 
as " New Peter-street." The alteration was made in con- 
sequence of confusion with Great and Little Peter-streets, 
and the name was chosen by the United Vestry to com- 
memorate a munificent donor to Palmer's and Hill's alms- 
houses — Mrs. Hannah Sarah Chadwick, who, in 1859, gave 
a donation of ;^i,5oo three per cent, annuities to the alms- 
houses in memory of her husband, Mr. James Chadwick, a 
former governor of the charities, and in the following year 
a like sum, the interest in each case to be devoted to the 

* Gent. Mag. for 1846, Vol. XX VL 



Great College-street. 407 

increase of the stipends of the ahnspeople or ever. Two 
fine portraits in oils of Mr. and Mr.s. Chadwick hang in the 
board-room of the new united alms-houses in Rochester- 
row. 

In COBOURG-ROW [see page 397) — were, until 1886, the 
subsidiary names of St. Margaret 's-terrace (Nos. 2 to 38), 
Rochester-place (Nos. 21 to 39), and Spencer-terrace (Nos. 
I to 19). The boundary line between the sister parishes 
proceeds along this thoroughfare. 

(Great) Collecje-.street — is perhaps one of the most 
ancient streets in Westminster. As has been mentioned 
elsewhere (/>. 348) a stream once ran down the street, 
forming the southern boundary of the Abbey-gardens, and 
the abbots were wont to take boat on this rivulet to go to 
the Thames. There was a large pond close by.* Abbot 
Littlington built the wall on the north side. The invaluable 
Seymour thus describes the locality as it appeared in 1735 — 
" College-street, formerly called the Dead-wall ^s lying against the 
wall of the College-garden and Lindsey-'^'Ax^o.w : It has buildings only 
on the south side, which are pretty good, the north side being the wall: 
In this street is Piper' s-ground, which has, at present, a few houses built, 
the rest lying waste : Here is also Brick-court, an indifferent place." 

Wealthy, well-born, and famous people have lived in this 
street. In Gibbon's Mcvioirs of My Life atid Writings, are to 
be found more than one reference to College-street, where his 
aunt, Mrs. Catherine Porten, kept a boarding house for 
Westminster boys, during Gibbon's brief stay at West- 
minster School (1749, 1750). He says: "After the 
Christmas holidays, in January, 1749, I accompanied Mrs. 
Porten to her new house in College-street, and was 
immediately entered in the school, of which Dr. John 
Nicoll was at that time head-master. At first I was alone : 
but my aunt's resolution was praised ; f her character was 

* Stanley's Memorials ; p. 338, note 9. 

+ Her father, James Torten, was an absconding bankrupt ; and Mrs. Porten 
resolved to follow " the humble industry of keeping a boai ding-house for 
Westminster School, where she laboriously earned a competence for her 
old age." 

2 15 2 



4o8 Streets and places. 

esteemed ; her friends were numerous and active : in the 
course of some years she became the [foster] mother of forty 
or fifty boys, for the most part of family and fortune ; and 
as her primitive habitation was too narrow, she built and 
occupied a spacious mansion in Dean's-yard." But 
Gibbon was too delicate for the robust life of a public 
school ; as he himself tells us : " Instead of audaciously 
mingling in the sports, the quarrels, and the connections of 
our little world, I was still cherished at home under the 
maternal wing of my aunt ; and my removal from West- 
minster long preceded the approach of manhood"; and 
■ again elsewhere, " My name, it is most true, could never be 
enrolled among the sprightly race, the idle progeny of 
Eton or Westminster, — 

Who foremost may delight to cleave, 
With pliant arm, the glassy wave, 
Or urge the flying ball." 

In after life the magnificent historian proved himself a 
grateful nephew. Speaking of his return from the continent, 
in 1758, he writes: — 

" The only person in England whom I was impatient to see was my 
aunt Porten, the affectionate guardian of my tender years. I hastened 
to her house in College-street, Westminster, and the evening was spent 
in effusions of joy and confidence. It was not without some awe and 
apprehension that I approached the presence of my father. My 
infancy, to speak the truth, had been neglected at home ; the severity 
of his look and language at our last parting still dwelt on my memory, 
nor could I form any notion of his character or my probable reception. 
They were both more agreeable than I could expect. The domestic 
discipline of our ancestors has been relaxed by the philosophy and 
softness of the age ; and if my father remembered that he had trembled 
before a stern parent, it was only to adopt with his own son an opposite 
mode of behaviour." 

The architect of the " golden bridge across the middle 
ages" died in St. James's-street, January i6th, 1794. 

College-street can proudly boast, too, of association with 
that true poet, John Keats (i 795-1 821), who dated letters 
of his to Fanny Brawne, in 18 19, from Great Smith-street 



" TJie sovereign poiver of Love." 409 

and 25, College-street, Westminster. No. 25 was near the 
corner of the present Tufton-street. * 'Poor Keats' had 
boasted, in a letter to Mr. Dilke.f the editor of llie 
Athemcuni.'OcvdX. he had never "given in to the sovereign 
power of Love " at that time (181 8) ; but, very soon after 
this date, the present Sir Charles Dilke justly remarks, the 
poet "gave in " to a passion " which killed him as surely as 
ever any man was killed by love." 

Too early banished from thy place of birth, 
By tyrant Pain, thy too bright Spirit fled I 

Too late came love to shew the world thy worth I 
Too late came Glory for thy youthful head I 

Proctok's Elegy. 

Walcott has the following amusing anecdote of the 
eccentric author, Paul HifTernan, alias " Go your way" : — 

"To try how far Paul Hiffcrnan, a man of learning and ingenuity, 
would ' go your way,' a gentleman of his acquaintance, after treating'' 
him with a good supper at the Bedford Coffee-house, took his hand, 
and said, ' Good night, Paul.' 'Stay,' cried the other, 'I am going your 
way.' His friend went onward, out of his own way, with Paul to 
Limehouse, whiling the distance by prophetical encomiums upon Paul's 
tragedy, 'The Heroine of the Cave.' He then brought him back to 
Carpenter's, in Covent (}arden, at three o'clock in the morning ; when, 
after drinking some coffee and punch, a new departure was taken, with 
' Ciood Morning, Paul; I am going to the Blue Boar, Holborn.' 
' Well, says Hiffernan, 'that is in my way.' He at last took his leave, 
after seeing his friend pass the gate of the hotel, at five in the morning ; 
and afterwards walked leisurely home to his lodgings in College-street, 
Westminster, next door to the hatter, where he died about 1780." 

Rose's Biographical Dictionary says of him that " though 
acquainted with Foote, Garrick, Goldsmith, Murphy, Kelly, 
and others, he 3^et seldom appeared decently respectable ; 
and so great were his eccentricities that he never would 
mention where his lodgings were. He died June, 1777, 
and it was then discovered that he had lodged in one of the 
obscure courts near St. Martin's-lane." Mr. Walcott must 

* Hutton's Literary Landmarks of London. 

+ Sir Charles Dilke's Memoir of his grandfather, Mr. C. W. Dilkc, prefaced 
to Papers of a Critic. 



410 Streets and places. 

have made a mistake, for the foregoing is confirmed by 
articles in the European Magazine, Vol. XXV, pp. no, 179, 
and by Baker's Biographica Drainatica — 

" In short, with no princ p es and slender abihties, he was perpetually 
disgracing literature, which he was doomed to follow for bread, by 
such a conduct as was even unworthy of the lowest and most contemp- 
tible of the vulgar. His conversation was highly offensive to decency 
and good manners, and after an irregular and shameful life, oppressed 
by poverty, and in the latter part of it by disease, he ended a miserable 
existence in June, 1777." His Theory on the Art of Acting is only to 
be remembered for its eccentricity. It concludes — 

" Farewell, ye cauliflowers on the proud tops 
Of brimming tankards, I never more shall see — 
Hard— Hard fate ! " 

The following notices are quoted from the Gentleman s 

Magazine : — 

/tity Sth, /Soj. At his house in College-street, Westminster, 
aged 81. Col. Teesdale. 

JO May, 1S06. In his 79th year, Mr. Thomas Lambert, of College- 
street, Westminster : well known to the inhabitants, but more 
particularly to those of the parish of St. John, where he had 
filled an official situation, for 28 years, with such exemplary 
faith and regularity as to cause the gentlemen of that parish, 
in his decline of life, to withdraw him from their employ, with 
a suitable provision during its remainder. He assisted as an 
attendant at Westmmster abbey on the coronation of his 
Majesty : and had lived upwards of 49 years in one house. 

Feb. 26, iSjo. In College-street, Westminster, aged 63, Mr, 
William Ginger, bookseller to Westminster School, and a 
member of the Court of Assistants of the Stationers' Com- 
pany ; and son of Mr. William Ginger, who preceded him in 
the same business, and died in 1803. A third generation now 
succeeds. 

The historian of Westminster School Past and Present 

(1883) says: — "The last of the Gingers died a few years 

ago. The family were the school booksellers for nearly a 

century." Theirs must have been a lucrative business, for 

the same writer tells us " Quill pens only were used in the 

school, and it was an established custom never to use a pen 

on two occasions. An exercise written, the pen was thrown 

on the ground. Little round glass ink-bottles, with a piece 

of cotton wool in the centre, were used by all the boys. 



Diversions of Mother Grant's boarders. 41 1 

These were called ' dips,* and could be carried two or three 
together in one pocket. The only paper used for school 
purposes was in single sheets of a small quarto size, called 
' quarterns.'" 

The curious visitor to Great College-street may have 
often remarked that Abbot Littlington's wall has been at 
some recent time heightened by several feet of brick 
work, with a by no means elegant fringe of broken glass on 
top ; and the enquiry may well have suggested itself, 
Why this bizarre, not to say unseemly, addition ? This 
explanation is afforded by Lord Albemarle in his Fifty 
Years of my Life. The noble author (who was born 1 799) 
entered Westminster School 1809-10, and left in the 
memorable year 181 5, under the following amusing circum- 
stances as told by himself: — 

Passing through Dean's Yard from the north, you come upon Great 
College-street — a single row of shabby-looking houses facing a stone wall 
which Ur. Stanley, the Dean, tells me was built by Abbot Livingstone* 
in the reign of Edward the Third, at the same time as the Jerusaleni 
Chamber and the College Hall. But the wall, ancient though it be, 
has less of personal interest to me than the modern superstructure by 
which it is now surmounted. 

When I first went to Westminster a lamp iron was fixed in the wall, 
of which the use — at least the only one to which I saw it applied — was 
to enable Mother Grant's boarders to let themselves down into 
College-street after lock-up hours. I took kindly to the prevailing 
fashion, and the school authorities^not wise in their generation — 
rendered it still easier to follow, by allowing a building to abut on the 
inside wall. 

But on my return to school after the Bartlcmy-tide holidays in 1814, 
I found that the wall had been considerably raised, and the top covered 
with broken glass-bottles which remain to the present day. 

How to circumvent the enemy was the question. I took into my 
counsel the school Crispin, one Cobbler Foot by name, an old man-of- 
war's man, and he made fi)r me a rope ladder, a " Jacob's ladder," I 
think they call it, similar to that made for ascending the sides of shijjs 
of small burden. Thus provided, I climbed the wall with much less 
risk to my neck than via the lamp iron. 

On the i8th of March, 181 5, on my return from the play, the scaling 
apparatus was all ready forme at the street side of Abbot Livingstone's 
wall, but great was my disgust, when on reaching my room I found the 

* Sic. Read Littlington. 



4 1 2 Stj'ccts and places. 

lay figure which I liad left in my bed to personate me in my absence, 
lying piecemeal on the floor ; my escapade was no longer a secret to 
the authorities. 

The next morning when I went into school, I was sorely puzzled at 
the silence in which so serious a breach of discipline seemed to be 
passed over. The mystery was solved next day. A letter from my 
father informed me that my school-days had come to an end ; enclosed 
was one froni Dr. Page to him, dissuading him from thinking any more 
of a learned profession for me, and recommending him to choose one 
in which physical rather than mental exertion would be a requisite. 

The sleepy old-town quietness of this street, and those 
in the immediate vicinity (Barton-street, Cowley-street, 
North-street, Smith-square, &c.) has perhaps been remarked 
by every stranger who has suddenly found himself in it, 
after the bustle of Parliament-square and Millbank, or the 
squalid appearance of Tufton and Marsham-streets close 
by. Lord Beaconsfield has remarked it in one of his novels 
(sec page 46), and Mr. Percy Fitzgerald, in PictJircsquc 
London (1890), has done full justice to the vivid Rembrandt- 
like contrast of the street to its immediate surrounding.s — 
contrasts, be it said, in which London abounds, and affords 
attraction to the American or foreign visitor : — 

On passing out at the other end of Dean's Yard wc find ourselves 
in a tranc[uil old fashioned street, College street. This might be a 
portion of a close in an old cathedral, so placid and silent is it ; the 
houses being of that small, unpretending order in which canons and 
choristers might reside. There are carved doorways, there is cheerful 
red-brick, while a few houses are overgrown from top to bottom with 
a rich clothing of greenery. At the end we have a glimpse of the ri\'er 
and barges passing lazily by. In front stretches the old cobble wall of 
the Abbey gardens, full of old trees .... The district round 
seems to partake of this conventual and retiring character. 

Walcott dates his History of St. Alargarct' s Church 

( 1 847), and his Memorials ( 1 849), from 7, Great College-street. 

Mackenzie Edward Charles Walcott, B.D., F.S.A., the 

\\\?>\.ox\'A.\'\ par excellence of Westminster, was the only son of 

Admiral J. PI Walcott, and was born at Bath, 1822, and 

educated at Winchester, and Exeter College, Oxford. He 

was for some years curate of St. Margaret's, then evening 

lecturer at St. James', Piccadilly, and minister of Berkeley 



TJie Rev. Mackenzie Walcott. 413 

Chapel, Mayfair, from 1867 to 1870. Mr. Walcott was the 
author of a large number of antiquarian and ecclcsiological 
works. In addition to these may be mentioned — Handbook 
for St. James, William of WykcJiam and His Colleges, 
Cathedralia, Sacred ArcJiceology, Histoid of Battle Abbey, 
Sac, &c. Several volumes of MS. materials collected by 
him for a history of cathedrals and conventual foundations in 
England, are preserved in the British Museum. He died at 
his residence in Belgrave-road, 22nd December, 1880. 

Another celebrated antiquarian, who lived at one time 
in College-street, was William John Thoms, the founder 
and editor of that most delightful medium of intercom- 
munication for literary men and general readers, the ever- 
green Notes and Queries. Mr. Thoms, was born on Nov- 
ember 1 6th, 1803, in this street. The late Mr. T. C. Noble, 
in a paper to Notes and Queries oi October 17th, 1885, has 
disclosed the fact that the register of his baptism in St. 
Margaret's Church, December 15th, 1803, originally 
recorded his name as simply "John Thoms, son of 
Nathaniel by Ruth Ann, [born] November 16." This 
curious error was corrected in 1857 by a sworn affidavit 
made by his aunt, Mary Ann Thoms, spinster. The 
declaration made June 2nd, states that " my late brother 
the said Nathaniel Thoms and his wife Ruth Ann Thoms 
had issue of their marriage only one child, my nephew, 
William John Thoms, now of No. 25, Holywell-strect, 
Millbank, Westminster, who was born on the 16th day of 
November, 1803, that I was present at his baptism at St. 
Margaret's Church, on the 15th day of December, following, 
that I stood godmother to my said nephew, w^ho was 
baptised by the name of William John, and that he has 
ever since been called and known as William John Thoms, 
and I make this declaration for the purpose of correcting the 
erroneous entry in the register of baptisms at St. Margaret's, 
Westminster. . . ." Mr. Thoms, whom Westminster 
can therefore claim as its own, began active life as a clerk 



414 Streets and places. 

in the secretary's office, Chelsea Hospital. He was elected 
in 1838 a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, and in the 
same year became secretary of the Camden Society, a 
post he held until 1873. During many years he held an 
appointment in the House of Lords, and in 1863 was 
appointed deputy-librarian of the House of Lords, a position 
he resigned in consequence of old age in 1882. The first 
number of Notes and Queries was published Nov. 3, 1849 ; 
Mr. Thoms has himself in vols. VI. and VH. of the Fifth 
Series, left on record the circumstances under which the 
periodical was conceived, named, and started. A sound 
and accurate scholar, the close friend during more than half a 
century of the best English and foreign men of letters, 
Mr. Thoms had in an eminent degree the serviceable gift of 
knowing where information was to be found. He was 
before all things a student ; the stores of his admirably 
furnished mind were at the service of anyone engaged in 
earnest work ; but he was retiring in nature, little given to 
promiscuous hospitality, and little addicted to the life of 
clubs. Mr. Thoms was elected a Vestryman of St. John's 
in April, 1852, when he was living in Great College-street 
in the house occupied by Nathaniel Thoms before him. 

Among the proofs of his happiness in hitting on names 
may be cited his choice of ^ Notes and Queries,' his invention 
of the word ' folk-lore,' and his application to the church- 
yard of the term ' God's acre,' taken from the German, 
and immediately seized upon by the public. Mr. Thoms 
died at his house in St. George's-square, Belgrave-road, 
on Saturday, August 15th, 1885, in the 82nd year of his age.* 
Notes and Queries was bought by Sir C. W. Dilke, about 
August, 1872. All antiquarians must most heartily endorse 
the words Mr. Thoms himself used at the commencement 
of the Sixth Series — ■" Long may my offspring occupy the 
position which it so worthily fills ; and long may the con- 

* Notes and Queries, Aug. 22, 1885. 



The Wesley s. 4 1 5 

tributors to clear old N. & Q. greet each new scries as 
I do this, Floreat ! Floreat ! Floreat ! " 

LiTTLi-: Colle(;e Street — was formerly known as 
" Pipe's or Piper's-ground." Seymour, in 1735, mentions 
that it then consisted of " a {qw houses built, the rest lying 
waste." 

The London home of the brothers Wesley after they 
had left Oxford, was at the house of the Rev. Mr. Hutton, 
in Little College-street, where he took Westminster boys 
to board. He was a non-juring clergyman, \\\\o had 
resigned his living because he could not take the oaths on 
the accession of George I. Mr. Benham in his life of 
Hutton, says that Samuel Wesley lived next door, but he 
heads his letters ' Dean's-yard.' Samuel Wesley was an 
usher of the school for nearly 20 years and a candidate for 
the under-mastership, but he lost it through his fidelity to 
Atterbury. His brother Charles was also educated at 
Westminster, and James Hutton (17 15 — 1795) who had 
also been a Westminster scholar, went to visit some of his 
old schoolfellows at Oxford not long before the Wcslcys 
sailed for Georgia. He thus met Charles Wesley, who 
introduced him to John.* It was John Wesley who 
introduced young Hutton in 1738 to Peter Bohler, then on 
his way with two friends from Germany to Georgia, and 
Hutton thenceforth inclined to Moravianism.f A lodging 
was found for the German friends near Mr. Hutton's. On 
Charles Wesley's return from Georgia in December, 1736, 
James Hutton sought him out and took him to his 
father's house in College-street. "My reception," he writes, 

* John Wesley was educated at the Charterhouse, not at Wesminster. 

t John Wesley tried in vain to induce Hutton to follow his example, hut he 
continued an active Moravian till his death, although he and Wesley hccanie 
reconciled in after life. " I'ray," Lord Shell)orne once asked him, " on what 
footing are you with the niethodists? "' "They kick us whenever they can," 
answered Hutton. George HI., the Queen, and Dr. Eranklin were among 
his actjuaintance. He may be called the founder of the Moravian Church in 
England. He died on May 3, 1795, at Oxted-cottage, near Godstone, Surrey, 
where he had lived for nearly two years with the Misses Biscoe and Shelley. 



4 1 6 Streets and places. 

" was such as I expected from a family that entirely loved 
me, but had given me over for dead, and bewailed me as 
their own child." When John returned to England in 1738 
he also found a home at Mr. Hutton's. Charles Wesley 
greatly offended Mrs. Hutton in May of the same year, by 
preferring to lodge with Bray, the brazier of Little Britain, 
rather than in College-street. She wrote to Samuel Wesley 
at Tiverton " Mr. Charles went from my son's [the book- 
seller's shop west of Temple Bar] where he lay ill for some 
time, and would not come to our house, but chose to go 
to a poor brazier's in Little Britain, that that brazier might 
help him in his conversion." 

Gayfere, the Abbey mason, and an active participator in 
parochial affairs, also lived in Little College-street. He 
restored Henry the Seventh's Chapel, 

College-court. — " From his house in College-court, on 
May 13, 1703, Edward Jones, Lord Bishop of St. Asaph, 
was borne to his long home in the chancel of St. Margaret's 
Church" (Walcott). A plan given in Smith's Antiquities, 
engraved from a drawing pos.sessed by the Commissioners 
of Westminster Bridge, and taken between 1734 and 1738, 
shows College-court as a narrow court lying between Great 
Smith-street and Dean's-yard. It led out from some 
stabling, to which access was obtained from Dean's-yard, 
into " Smith-street." 

Seymour (1735), after describing Dean's-yard, says: — 

And on the north side is a Place called the Stable-yards, at the 
entrance into which are good houses, but that part leading to Orchard- 
street, is taken for stabling and coach-houses, but near the entrance is 
a new built Court, called College-court, with Handsome genteel 
Houses, with a Freestone Pavement, which hath a thoroughfare 
Passage. 

The name of DOUGLAS-.STREET has no reference whatever 
to Archibald Douglas, Earl of Angus, the Bell-the-Cat of 
Scott's Marniion, Canon William Douglas (1807) gave 
the street its name. 

Douglas-street was on both sides of Vincent-square (that 



Removal of the Parish pound. 417 

is, it extended from Rochester-row to Regency-street, but 
was divided by Vincent-square until 1889, when the small 
part between Rochester-row and Vincent-square was re- 
named VValcott-street. In Douglas-street are Douglas-place 
and Douglas-gardens. The houses in this street were 
re-numbered in 1876-7. 

Earl-street. — See pages 396 and \2o. 

Frederick-street. — See page 397. 

Fynes-street — a short street connecting Vincent- 
square and Regency-street, is named after Charles Fynes 
Clinton, Canon Prebendary of the Abbey in 1788, and 
Rector of St. Margaret's in 1796. 

That Garden-street, Vauxhall-bridge-road, was so 
named because built on a market garden, may perhaps be 
accepted without much cavil. There is also a Garden- 
place in Bell-street. 

Grey Coat-place — and Grey Coat-street derive their 
name from Queen Anne's really noble foundation of the 
Grey Coat Hospital, of which some account is given in 
Chapter XV. Grey Coat-place faces the school, which is 
flanked on the west side by Grey Coat-street, and on the 
east by the Horseferry-road. In the wide space at the 
junction of Old Rochester- row and Rochester-row, once stood 
the parish Found-house, a carpenter's shop, and a fine old tree. 
The buildings — Pound-place — were removed, and the site 
added to the public highway in 1864-5. Mill's-buildings, 
Brunswick-row and Pond-court (now called Bond-court) 
are on the north side of Grey Coat-place. 

GroSVENOR-ROAD — has been already dealt with in a 
preceding chapter. The houses were re-numbered in 1878. 
In 1888 Devon-place (that part of Grosvenor-strect which 
comes out of Page-street) was incorporated with Grosvenor- 
street. 

The HORSKFEKRV-KOAn has been called 'that ancient 
causeway,' and with reason, for the ' road to the F'erry ' 



41 8 Streets and places. 

must have been almost coeval with the ferry itself. For 
centuries it was nothing more than a track for horsemen 
and pedestrians to and from the ferry-boat. The cart- 
track was full of ruts and holes, and well-nigh impassable 
in wet weather, and it was a route that was fraught with 
danger to the wayfarer so soon as dusk set in. Highway- 
men and sanctuary ruffians would here lie in wait for any 
who might be so foolhardy as to attempt to pass along the 
solitary road alone or unarmed. Within the present 
century the site of the Gas I^ight and Coke Co.'s offices 
was occupied by a well-known market garden ; and a tea- 
garden, graced with tall poplars, which once existed here, is 
still perpetuated in the name of the public-house, * The 
White Horse and Bower,' at the corner of Monck-street. 
But perhaps the most historic place of public call was the 
* Old King's Head.' A newly-constructed house at the 
corner of Earl-street still bears the old sign and the date 
1645. A hostelry is considered to have been first 
erected here — perhaps a mere wooden shanty — for the 
accommodation of ferry passengers, about the same time 
as the Parliament built the wooden guard -house at the 
ferry for the scrutiny and detention of " malignants." At 
the time of the Restoration, the wayside inn first obtained, 
with many hundred others throughout the country, its sign 
of the ' King's Head.' To this house it is generally sup- 
posed that, in the dark hours of the morning of the 9th 
December, 1688, de Lauzun and Sir Edward Hales called 
for lights to conduct them to the swollen river when the 
Queen of James H. and her infant son fled the country. 

Market-street — extended from Johnson-street to the 
Horse-ferry. In 1865 it was incorporated with the Horse- 
ferry-road. It derived its name from the right of holding 
" one market at Touthall every Monday ; and one fair to be 
held annually in the same place, on the Eve Day, and day 
following St. Mary Magdalene," which was granted by 
King Henry III., in a charter to the Abbot and Convent. 



Four ships on dry land. 419 

The history of this fair will be found at page 265. Seymour 
says of it (1735) "Market-street falls into the Mill-bank, 
and is but ordinary." The rate-book for 1782, for St. 
John's parish, shows a — 

Mr. Gayfere to be rated for "a house and two fields" in Market- 
street, ^40 ; also Josh- Saunders "for a field" in the same 
street, at ^{^20 ; and W""- Barrow "for a house and two fields" 
in the same street at ^60. 

The Order of the Metropolitan Board (6th Jan., 1865) 
which incorporated Market-street, also abolished the sub- 
sidiary names of Cobourg-terrace (five houses counting from 
Tufton-street, now 64-72, Horseferry-road), Cobourg-row 
(three houses, now 74-78, Horseferry road), and Romney- 
terrace, from Monck-street to Arneway-street ; and on the 
south side, Grosvenor-terrace, six houses from Broadwood's 
to Regent-place. 

Ship-court is a narrow lane connecting Horseferry-road 
and Bell-street. The ' Ship ' for some reason or other, not 
now traceable, appears to have been a favourite sign in 
Westminster; there are now no less than four public-hou.ses 
bearing this sign within ' our parish.' Cottage-place was 
the name of the houses on the north side until 1883. In 
this place are a few two-roomed cottages, with small fore- 
courts, in which attempts are made in the summer season 
to cultivate a few of the hardier flowers. One of these small 
gardens is noticeable as containing a well-grown fig-tree 
and a common grape-vine roughly trained over a rude 
seat, so that the occupier is able to sit at once " under his 
vine and under his fig-tree." 

.\ Ship-court in York-street, St. Margaret's parish, was 
re-named Kififord-court in 1888, in order to avoid confusion 
with this court. 

Grub-street — Fame, though it " hath a thousand 
several tongues," has not one to spare for the brave retreat 
in the Horseferry-road bearing the euphonistic name of 



420 Streets and places. 

Grub ! In the words of Pope, the compiler of these 
discursive pages hopes that each gentle reader — ■ 

" — from all Grub-street will my fame defend." 

Sat. I. 

York-buildings is a narrow court on the east side of 
Grub-street, now closed as unfit for human habitation. 

Champion's-alley and Carpenter-street run parallel to 
Grub-street, between Romney-street and Horseferry-road. 

Johnson-street — is named after the Alderman and 
Churchwarden {see page 151) who built this and other 
streets in the vicinity. Appropriately enough there is a 
' Paviors' Arms ' in this street. 

Laundry-YARD — may be allowed to explain its deriva- 
tion for itself; its inhabitants possess a natural and native 
eloquence all their own. To quote Pope's ludicrous 
imitation of Spenser: — 

There oft are heard the notes of infant woe, 
The short thick sob, loud scream, and shriller squall : 
How can ye, mothers, vex your children so? 
Some play, some eat, some nestle by the wall. 
And as they crouchen low, for bread and butter call. 

At every door are sunburnt matrons seen, 

Now singing shrill, and scolding eft between 

— Scolds answer foul-mouth'd scolds ; bad neighbourhood I ween ! 

Cooke's Local Directory 1847, mentions a De^rby-place, 
Laundry-yard. 

Lillington-street. — Lillington is the name of a parish 
and town adjoining Leamington in Warwickshire. 

Marsham-street, Earl-street, Romney-street — 
were all named after Charles Marsham, Earl of Romney 
(creat. 1801), the owner of the property. The noble family 
of Marsham trace themselves to a man whose chief dis- 
tinction it was that he was one of the most eminent scholars 
of his age, as the founder of their hereditary honours, 
John Marsham was one of six sons and four daughters of a 
London alderman. Born in 1602, he went from West- 
minster School to St. John's College, Oxford, in 1619. 



Robert, Ear I of Marslimn. 42 1 

The subject to which his minrl was particulai-1}' directed is 
one of ])ccuHar intricacy and difficult}- — the discntan^i^lemcnt 
of the conflicting" statements in earl\- writers concerninj^ 
ancient d)-nasties and events in the earliest periods of histor)'. 
This learned chronologist published Ckronicns Canon 
^■Egyptiacns, Ebraicns, ct Gncciis in 1672, the work for which 
he is most celebrated. He was knighted, and afterwards 
created a baronet (1663) at the Restoration. He died 25th 
Ma)', 1685. The famil}' took its name from possessions 
at Marsham, in Norfolk, circa i 100. Sir John was not only 
learned himself, but his two sons. Sir John Marsham of 
Cuxton and Sir Robert Marsham of Bush}', were also 
studious and learned men. The son of Sir Robert was 
created Baron Romne}' b}' King George I. in the second 
}'ear of his reign (1716). According to Dod's Peerage, the 
first peer represented Maidstone in several parliaments ; 
and the third earl sat for West Kent. The earldom dates 
from 1 80 1. 

Marsham-street is described b}' Se}'mour, who wrote in 
1735, as being " long and straight, with good buildings well 
inhabited ; it comes out of Peter-street, and falls into the 
road which leads to the Horse-ferr}-." 

Kaki,-stri;i:t — is a continuation of Marsham-street 
from the opposite side of Horseferr}--road, across Page- 
street to Vincent-street. The whole of the east side of it 
from Hor.seferr\'-road to ]*age street is occupied b\' the 
Westminster Brewer}-(New\\'estminster Brewer}' Co., Ltd.), 
On the other side were Messrs. Hadfield's marble works 
and galler}' of sculpture, established here in 1804. now the 
waste department of the Gox'ernment Stationer}' depot. 

Until 1869, Romne}--street onl}- e.xtended from Marsham- 
street to Tufton-street, when \'ine-street (between Tufton- 
street and Millbank) was re-named and made part of it. 
Romne}'-street proper (as it may be termed for the moment) 
is mostly occupied on the north side b)' the Baptist Chapel, 



422 Streets and places. 

and on the opposite side by the Horseferry-road Board 
School. Tripp's-buildings are also in Romney-street, on 
the north. 

Vine-street — undoubtedly denoted the site of the 
vine-yard which formerly existed here, belonging to the 
Abbey. 

" There was a garden," says Stow, " they called the Vine Garden, 
because perhaps vines anciently were there nourished, and wine made." 
It was in King Edward VI. 's time enclosed with houses and buildings. 
With a parcel of ground called the Mill-bank, valued at 58s., it was 
'given by that King, in the third year of his reign, to Joanna Smith in 
consideration of service." 

" In the overseer's book, 1 565, is rated "the vyne-garden" and "myll" 
next to Bowling-alley. According to Cunningham, a house called Vine- 
yard House, \\'estminster, was taken by Percy, and tenanted b)' Guy 
Fawkes, under the name of John Johnson. Here they commenced the 
mine which connected their house with the cellars of the Houses of 
Parliament. In the first year of Edward VI., payment was made to 
" Rich. Wolward, Keeper of the King's House at Westminster, j mark 
to repair the King s Vineyard there." 

Seymour describes it as " a pretty handsome open place, 
which also falls into the Millbank. On the south-side is 
Campaine-alley which goes into Market-street." The 
Vestry minutes speak of " several new houses " in this 
street in 1795. 

But the fact which gives Vine-street ' a local habitation 

and a name ' more than any other, is that Charles 

Churchill was born here in 1731. He lived for a year too, 

in his father's house after his precipitate and improvident 

marriage with Miss Scott, when a mere lad of eighteen, 

without any means or plan of substance. 

" Famed Vine-street, 
Where Heaven, the kindest wish of man to grant, 
Gave me an old house and an older aunt." 

The satirical allusion cost the poet a legacy. 

It is regrettable that so ancient a name should have been 
obliterated, as it was in 1869, b)' the Metropolitan Board 
of Works. From that time the name of " Romney-street " 
has been assigned to the entire length of the thoroughfare, 
which runs parallel, for a considerable distance, with the 



Moiick-strcit ; W/iisU'i-s-^iroinid. 423 

portion of the Horseferr)'-road which was forincrl)' 
desii^nated " Market-street." Both these thoroughfares 
join Millbank-strcet near Lambeth-bridge. A view of 
thi.s part of the pari.^h, as it \\as seen from the Surrc)- side 
of tiie ri\er at tlie opening" of the present century, is given 
on the next page. 

MONCK-STREET — was SO named at the request of the 
Vestry, in 1889, after Mr. Henry Monck. who presented in 
17 1 3 to the Past Overseer's Society the original oval-shaped 
Tobacco-box, made of common horn, of about three-ounce 
capacity, and of a portable pocket size, which he had pur- 
chased at " Horn Fair," in the village of Charlton, near 
Woolwich, for the trifling sum of 4d. {Sec page 188.) 

The Order of the Metropolitan Hoard of Works, dated 
i6th April, 1889, incorporated under this name the places 
called Wiilstek's or Whlstlek's ground and Holland- 
street. Whistcr's-ground, or as it appears in the old rate- 
books, Whitster's-ground, was the narrowest portion of the 
street next Great Peter-street ; Holland-street extended 
from Romne)'-place (a ciel-dc-sac on the west side) to Horse- 
ferr)'-road ; it was named after Canon Holland Edwards, 
rector of ' our parish ' 1806-32. Concerning the origin of 
Whitster's-ground nothing is definitel}' known : it was 
probabl)' so called after the owner who first built houses 
there, or in allusion to a business carried on there. Cooke's 
VVestJiiinster Local Dirccto/ j (iS^y) mentions " Marlboro'- 
court, 64, Great Peter-street" and "Marlboro'-place,Whistcr's 
ground." They were named after an old luansion called 
"Marlborough House," which was cleared awa}- b)' the 
Chartered Compan\''s Gasworks, opened in 1816. An anon)-- 
mous writer in the ll'cstiiiinstcrand Piinlico Ncivs of June 29, 
1889, says that "the mansion thus finalK' annihilated, ap- 
peared to have sunk into disuctudc in 18 13, when I li\ed in 
the lonely house mentioned, and was about completing m\- 
fourth \-ear. The first gas-lamp lighted b\" way of test, to 
let the Wcstminsterians .see what was about to come into 

2 c 2 



424 



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Nortli-strect ; lillistou, the actor. 425 

vogue, was exhibited in the Laundry-yard, which is nearly 
opposite St. Ann's-street ; but it had been prudently 
ruled that I should not quit my quiet abode for the purpose 
of witnessin<^r it, for fear of bein;^^ knocked down b\- the 
surging multitude." 

The name of Xi:\\-stri:i:t ( A'incent-square) may have 
been appropriate enough when it was first built, but it is 
certainly out of all keeping in the year 1892. Its builder 
sadly lacked invention. Ikit, as Tennyson says, " common 
is the common-place." 

NORTlI-.STREET — extends from the north end of St. 
John's Church to Wood-street, opposite the entrance to 
Cowley-street. A stone tablet at the north-east corner 
with Wood-street bears the date 1725. This street, and, in 
fact, all those in the vicinit}-, were at one time inhabited by 
\\ell-born and distinguished people. At Xo. 13 lived 
Robert William Elliston, the great actor (though he was 
but a little man), who so took " Elia's " fancy. Born 7th 
April, [774, he first appeared at Bath in 1791. Coming to 
London in 1796, he became in a few }-ears the lessee and 
manager of Drury-lane and the Oh'mpic theatres. 
Elliston was alike clever in comed\- and traged}-, although 
perhaps he excelled in the former. But the chief charm of 
the actor to Charles Lamb was his completely histrionic 
character. Although " Elia " sa\-s that his " acquain- 
tance with the pleasant creature" was but slight, his 
Ellistoniana is full of anecdote upon the actor's 
egotistical idiosyncra.sy. " To descant upon his merits as 
a comedian would be superfluous." writes Lamb. " \\ ith his 
blended private and professional habits alone I have to do; 
that harmonious fusion of the maimers of the pla\-er into 
those of every-da>- life, which brought the stage-boards into 
streets and dining-i)arlours, and kept up the play when the 
play was ended. . . . And in truth, this was the charm of 
Elliston's private deportment. You had spirited per- 
formances alua\-s croincr on before \-our e^•es, with nothing 



426 Streets and places. 

to pay. As where a monarch takes up his casual abode for 
a night, the poorest hovel which he honours by his sleeping 
in it, becomes ipso facto for that time, a palace; so whenever 
Elliston walked, sat, or stood still there was the theatre. 
He carried about with him his pit, boxes and galleries, and 
set up his portable playhouse at corners of streets, and in 
the market-places. Upon flintiest pavements he trod the 
boards still; and if his theme chanced to be passionate, the 
green baize carpet of tragedy spontaneously rose beneath 
his feet. Now this was hearty, and showed a love for his 

art ' But there is something not natural in this 

everlasting acting; we want the real man.' Are you sure 
that it is not the man himself? What if it is the nature of 
some men to be highly artificial ? The fault is least 
reprehensible \\\ players. Gibber was his own Toppington, 
with as much wit as Vanbrugh could add to it." This con- 
summate actor and delightful 'character' died 7th July, 1831. 

At the last house in this street, on the east side, lodged 
Dr. Coleridge in 1824, before he proceeded to the Barbadoes 
as Bishop. In this street also lived the mother of Dr. Chelsom 
(born 1740), a scholar, and afterwards usher in Westminster 
school for several years. His chief preferment was the 
rectory of Droxford, in Hants.' 

Here also died, on May 20, 1802, Col. William Robert- 
son, of the "Royal Independent Invalids." William Capon, 
the antiquarian draughtsman, died here in 1827. Many of his 
pencil sketches of Westminster are in the Crace Collection. 

Orcharu-strp:et — was so called from having been 
erected on the old orchard-garden of the monastery. The 
Orchard-street of the present day — granite-paved, with 
Peabody-buildings on one hand and the backs of Victoria- 
mansions on the other — has not the remotest resemblance 
to the Orchard-street prior to the commencement of the 
Westminster Improvements in 1848. Only the name has 
survived. The street formerly extended from Dean-street 
(now Great Smith-street) in an unbroken line across 



" IVa/i' a little in the orchard!' 427 

Victoria-street into Great Chapel-street (St. Margarets- 
parish), falh'ng into that street a little to the north of Christ 
Church. Seymour describes it in 1735 a.s — 

" Very long, with good Buildings, which are well inhabited : on the 
North side is a Place called the New IVaj/, which has houses on the 
West side, the east being Sir Robert Pye's garden wall." 

Here lived the humourist Thomas Amory, author of the 
Li/e of John Bnncle, published 1756-66, and other singular 
works. He was born about 1691, the son of Counsellor 
Amory, who was appointed secretary for the forfeited 
estates in Ireland by William HI. Thomas, who was of 
an eccentric character, lived here the life of a recluse, only 
venturing out occasionally in the evening. He died 25th 
November, 1788, at the ripe age of 97. We read in the 
Gentleman's Magazine of another instance of longevity in 
this street. On the 15th October, 1793, a Mrs. Parker, 
widow, died here, who had just entered the looth year of 
her age, having been born October ist, 1694. 

Cottage-court, New-square, and Union-place are 
mentioned in Cooke's Local Directory (1847) ^^ being in 
this street. 

The Crace Collection of Prints in the British Museum 
contains an amusing lithograph reproduction of a picture 
at one time in the possession of Mr. William Collins, of 
Tothill-iields, entitled " The Sugar Hogshead." It shows 
an old-fashioned grocer's shop situated at a street-corner in 
Orchard-street, Westminster. Outside the bay-windowed 
shop front is a hogshead (it is much too wide for removal 
into the shop) which has evidently only recently been 
emptied of its saccharine contents, {ox a number of juvenile 
residents are disporting themselves inside, outside, and 
round about the relic of not yet departed sweetness, all 
oblivious to coming dangers. The irate proprietor has just 
sallied forth and is in the act of administering ' the cut 
direct ' to one urchin whose anatomy is invitingly poised 
for the purpose. The sign of the ' Sugar Loaves ' hangs at 



428 Streets and places. 

the corner of the house, where a lamp-lighter, furnished with 
his can of oil, is busily occupied in replenishing the supply 
at the miserable lamp for the night, — an operation which 
does not interfere, however, with his evident enjoyment of 
the moving drama that is being enacted immediately be- 
neath him. 

The same superb collection has also a wood-cut of " John 
Wesley's House in Orchard-street, pulled down in 185 1." 
The house was in the occupation of a sweep at the time 
the sketch was taken. 

VValcott tells us that in Orchard-street was held the first 
school established by the " National Society for the Educa- 
tion of the Poor in the Principles of the P^stablished 
Church." until, with the first grant (i5'50o) that was voted 
for the institution, the new building was commenced in the 
Broad Sanctuary, upon a valuable site given by the Commis- 
sioners of Woods and Forests. Although H.R.H. the Duke 
of York laid the foundation stone on 21st Juh', 1814, \'et 
within four months (on 23rd November following) the 
children were removed to their new schools, which cost 
iJ^5,003. The educational movement is further noticed in 
chapter XV. 

Tiie "New Way" ran due north from Orchard-street 
into the Almonry (which lay behind the houses on the 
south side of Tothill-street) nearly opposite the entrance 
to Peabody-buildings. 

Hereabouts the old Westminster streets were so narrow, 
says John Timbs, that opposite neighbours might shake 
hands out of the windows. The knot of wretched lanes and 
alleys in the Almonry, Orchard-street, Duck-lane, &c., 
happily cleared away for the formation of Victoria-street, 
and the erection of lofty blocks of mansions and Peabody- 
buildings, was known as " the Desert of Westminster," 
where all sorts of criminals and ruffians easily evaded the 
Bow-street runners. 

George Peabody was a descendant of the Pilgrim Fathers, 



Tin Pcabody Tnisi. 4:^') 

of a faniil}- formerly settled in Leicestershire, and was born 
at Dan\ers, Massachusetts, U.S., I-"eb. 18, 1795, where he 
was afterwards apprenticed to a ijrocer. He came to 
England in 1837, and established himself in London as a 
merchant and money-broker in 1843. He undertook at his 
own cost the arrangement of the United States dejjartment 
at the great exhibition of 1851 ; and he contributed to Dr. 
Kane's expedition in search of Sir John Lranklin in 1852. 
He founded the Danvers Institute, anci gave upwards of 
i, 100,000 f(jr a similar purpose in ]Mar\-land. On retiring 
from business with a large fortune in 1862, he presented 
the city of London, in a letter dated March 12, with his first 
munificent sum of i,'i 50,000, to be applied to the purpose 
of assisting the working-classes b}- the erection of com- 
fortable and convenient lodging-houses. Li 1866 he gave 
^ 100,000 ; in 1868, ;6' 1 00,000 ; and in 1873, -^150,000; 
making a total of ^^500.000 ; to which has been added 
money received for rent and interest. £553,105 6s. 6d.. 
bringing up the total of the Peabody Fund on the 31st 
December last (1891) to iJ" 1,05 3, 105 6s. 6d. The present 
trustees are the Right Hon. the Earl of Derby, K.G. 
(chairman; ; His Excellency the L^nited States Minister ; 
Sir George Lampson, Bart. ; the Right Hon. George Cubitt, 
M.P. (recently raised to the Peerage as Lord Ashcombe) ; 
E. A. Hambro, Esq. ; W. H. Burns, Esq. 

From the twent}--seventh annual report (1891) of the 
Trustees of the Peabody Donation Fund, we further learn 
that the capital expenditure on lands and buildings to the 
end of the year 1 89 1 was i^ 1,2 3 3, 904 13s. 9d., that 11,273 
rooms, besides laundries, bath-rooms, &c., have been pro- 
vided for artizans and the labouring poor of London, and 
that the net gain of the }'ear. from rents and interest 
was £29,659 4s. 7d. The first block of buildings was 
opened in Spitalfields in 1864. The substantially 
constructed buildings in Orchard-street were opened 
in 1882, Rochester-buildings in Old P\-e-street had 



430 Streets and places. 

been previously taken over from the Westminster Men's Club 
and Lodging-house, of which an account is given in Old and 
New London^ Vol. IV., p. 39. 

The great philanthropist died November 4th, 1869, in 
Eaton-square, in the house of Sir Curtis Lampson, Bart, 
whose son is a present Trustee. 

Pear-street — the narrow passage leading from Old 
Pye-street into Strutton-ground is another memorial of 
the orchard belonging to the old monastery. Tradition 
has it that a fine pear-tree once stood here. The street 
existed in Strype's time, for he describes it as " narrow 
and short, which comes out of Stretton-grounds, and falls 
into Duck-lane." 

Page-street — was named after Dr. William Page, head- 
master of Westminster School, who succeeded Dr. Carey 
in 1 8 14. He was educated at Westminster School and 
was appointed undermaster in 1802. To his classical pen 
the school was indebted for most of the prologues, &c., 
written between the years 1802 and 18 19, in which year he 
died. He must have done good service in the school, says 
Mr. F. H. Forshall * of him, for upon his death more than 
ten thousand pounds were raised by old Westminsters for 
the assistance of his family, who were left in straitened 
circumstances. 

Until 1864 Page-street only extended from Regency- 
street to Kensington-place. Then, by an order of the 
Metropolitan Board of Works, dated 22nd January, Holy- 
well-street (from Kensington-place to Millbank) was in- 
corporated and made part of Page-street, which now there- 
fore reaches from Regency-street to the Grosvenor-road. 
Here again as with Vine-street, and Bowling-street (which 
preserved the memory of the old places upon the sites of 
which they had been built), we have to deplore the extinction 
of the more ancient name, for ' Holywell' would seem to point 
to the existence within the Abbey precincts of some 

* IVt'stiiiiiister School, Fast ami Present, p. 316. 



Tlic Pete r-st reds. 43 1 

bubbling sprinij, with reputed virtues for the cure of those 
vv'ho in simple faith would litter with their poor offerings — 

" The slabbed margin of a well 
Whose patient level peeped its crystal eye 
Right upward, through the bushes, to the sky." 

Fitzstephen (died about 1190J, Thomas a Becket's 
trusted clerk, tells us that there were about London, on the 
north side, excellent suburban springs, with sweet, whole- 
some and clear water. There were several " Holy wells " 
about London ; but all trace of this particular one must 
have early disappeared, for no allusion to it can any- 
where be met with. 

Thoms, the antiquarian, was living at No. 25, Holywell- 
street in 1857. See page 413. 

In Page-street are the extensive premises of Messrs. 
Broadwood & Son, the world-famed pianoforte manufac- 
turers — a celebrated Westminster firm which dates its 
foundation from 1732. 

Pkter-STRKKTS (Great and Little). — Peter-street, St. 

Peter-street, Great St. Peter-street, or as its name now 

rests, Great Peter-street, bear the name of the Patron 

Saint of the Abbey. In the troublous times of the Civil 

War it was plain " Peter " for the Roundheads, and " Saint 

Peter" for the Cavalier. This thoroughfare is an ancient 

one. Walcott mentions that upon the front of a house in 

it, facing Leg-court, is the following inscription, rudely cut: — 

" This is Sant Peter Street, 1624, R. [a heart] W." The 

house and stone are still existing — No. 51 on the south 

side ; but Leg-court opposite has disappeared to make 

room for Pcab(xl)--buildings. Strype and Seymour thus 

describe it a hundred years later : — 

" 7VA7'-.y/;vt'/, very long antl inditiercnt broad, especially that part 
next to Totltill-fichis, from which it passes by Duck-liinc and falls into 
Wood-street, and thence to the Mill-bank ; and on the south side it 
receives these Places, viz., Ilorn-eoiirt, Tompkins' -yanU Moors' -yard, 
and Laiindrcys-allcy; all of ordinary Account." 



43^ Streets and placed. 

In the Gcntlcmaiis Magcxzim of July, i8oi, we read of 
the death of a Mrs. Payne, baker, of Peter-street, West- 
minster : — 

She was a very singular character ; her cloathing was in genera 
truly eccentric ; her outside habit chiefly consisted of a blanket made 
in the shape of a morning-gown. She was extremely saving in her 
diet, almost subsisting on the raspings of her custoiners' loaves ; yet, 
notwithstanding, she was very charitable to the poor. She persisted 
in sitting in her shop to the last moment of her existence, and expired 
under her counter, aged 88. 

On the south side of Great Peter-street, from the western 
end, are " Bull's Head "-court, "Blue ^Anchor "-court, New 
Peter-street (now Chadwick-street), Elizabeth-place, Monck- 
street (formerly Whister s ground and Marlborough-house 
and square), and Laundry-)'ard ; and on the north side, St. 
Matthew-street (Duck-lane), St. Ann's-lane, Johnson's- 
court, and St. Ann's-street. 

When gas was first generally introduced (about 1 812-13), 

the most absurd fears of the new illuminant were held by the 

public. An eminent engineer gravely told the House of 

Commons that the gas pipes would spread conflagration 

from house to house and street to street. The News, of 

October 31, 18 12, contained an account of a gas explosion 

at Great Peter-street, which, we may well suppose, did not 

tend to allay the apprehensions : — - 

OL-f. Ji. On Monday the neighbourhood of (^reat Peter street, 
Westminster, was thrown into much confusion and alarm by a gas tig/it 
explosion, which shook the surrounding houses, broke many windows, 
and threatened to fire in every direction. From all we could learn 
it appeared, that a pipe unexpectedly burst in the premises of the Gas 
Light and Coke Company. By this means much gas oozed out and 
filled the apartment ; but not calculating on this, one of the men took 
a candle and proceeded to the spot to ascertain what was the matter. 
The moment the candle was introduced, the whole of the gas that had 
escaped from the pipe burst into a flame with a dreadful explosion, as 
if fire had been communicated to a heap of gunpowder. By it this man 
was much injured, as well as two or three more of the workmen; indeed, 
it was said that two men were killed, but we do not learn that this was 
well founded. The speedy arrival of many engines, and the exertions 
within the manufactory soon got the fire under control, preventing 
it extending to the neighbouring premises. 



Cumberland, the drmnntist. 433 

Little Peter-street is spoken of in the Vestry minutes in 
the year 1800 as "a great thoroughfare obstructed by trees, 
posts, and rails, situate in the fronts of the houses." 

Richard Cumberland _^7.s- (1732 — 181 1) the dramatist and 
poet, tells us in his Memoirs of Himself that when at 
Westminster he boarded in " Peter Street, two doors from 
the turning out of College Street." Inasmuch as Peter- 
street and College-street both run cast and west, it is hard 
to guess his meaning, except that b\' the " turning out of 
College-street " is meant Bowling-alley {i.e. Tufton-street), 
in which case the house he boarded at would have been in 
(Little) Peter-street, now Wood-street, " two doors from the 
turning." Richard Cumberland, the son of Richard 
Cumberland, Bishop of Peterborough, entered Westminster 
School when twelve }-ears old, but at that earl}' age was 
placed in " the Shell." He was of about the same standing 
in the school as William Burke, and Colman (the elder), 
Churchill, Warren Hastings, Harle\', Robert Lloyd. Cowper, 
Dean Vincent, Lord Shelburne, the Earl of Bristol, and Cra- 
cherode were also schoolfellows of his — an uiuisuall}- brilliant 
set. He was admitted to Trinit}' College, Cambridge, when 
onl)' in his fourteenth year. In after life he became a 
x'oluminous writer — opera, corned}-, tragedy, poetry ifh'rical, 
sacred and occasional\ noxcls. essa}'s, pam])hlets, and e\-en 
di\-init}- — all were apparenth' alike to liis facile pen. The 
Wheel of Fortiuie, identified with John Kemble, the West 
Indian, \\'\\\\ Moody the comedian, and Thcfeii\-A.x\ honourable 
attempt to combat popular prejudice against the Jewish 
nation, were his most effective dramatic pieces. His Essays 
and Memoirs are what he is principal I}- known b}' to 
modern readers. He died 7th Ma}% 181 i. 

PVK Stkeet.S, Old and New.— Old and Xew P}-e-strcets, 
part of which disappeared between 1848 and 1850 in the 
formation of Victoria-street, were so named after Sir Robert 
Pye, of Farrington, in Berks. He married Anne (not 
Mary, as given in Walcott's Memorials) the second 



434 



Old houses in Pyc-strcct. 




Pye-street and Perkins -rents. 435 

daughter of the great patriot John Hampden. In Purcell's 
time the neighbourhood was newly built on the edge of 
the fields, as it were, by Sir Robert, whose house stood in 
the " New Way," near the Almonry. Its site was after- 
wards occupied by the Workhouse of St. Margaret's 
parish, opposite the present Westminster Hospital. There is 
an excellent view of this workhouse in the Grace collection 
at the British Museum. Sir Robert Pye (who became, by 
his marriage, a cousin of Oliver Cromwell) was a great 
benefactor to the New Chapel in the Broadway. Besides 
giving ^500 towards the furniture of the Chapel, he settled 
by deed, March 8, 1652, eight messuages in Petty France 
upon the Chapel to maintain a minister, reserving the right 
of nomination absolutely to himself and heirs. Sir Robert 
was an ancestor of Henry James Pye, the poet laureate, 
Southey's predecessor. The latter, who was born in 1745, 
published Poems, 1787, and a translation of Aristotle's 
Poetics, 1788. He was a magistrate of Westminster, and died 
1 1 th August, 1 8 1 3. Sir Robert Pye represented Westminster 
in the time of Charles I. 

De Groot, the great-nephew of the learned Dutch states- 
man and writer, Hugh Grotius, lived here for some time. 
By the friendly intercession of Dr. Johnson he afterwards 
became admitted as a " poor brother " of the Charterhouse. 

Seymour writing in 1735 considered Pye-street, "between 
Duck-lane and great St. Ann's-lane',' as " being better built 
than inhabited " ; and he speaks of New Pye-street as " a 
passage from Old Pye-street into Orchard-street." 

Perkin's-RENTS — were in existence in Seymour's time. 
He thus describes them — " Perkins-rents comes out of Pye- 
street and falls into Pete7--street, a place of no account." 

In the Churchwardens' accounts for St. John's parish we 

find the following entries : — 

6//1 March, 1S02. To the Beadle for a Jury to sit on the 
bodies of Samuel Tagg, Harriet Ludgate and 
Eleanor Shaw, killed by the falling down of the 
houses in Perkin's Rents 5s. 



43^ Streets mid places. 

nth iMarc/i, 1802. Paid sundry persons for digging 
out the people buried in the ruins of the houses in 
Perkin's Rents, and for Hquor for them ... ... ^3 i o 

Regf.NCV Street — extends from the Yauxhall-briclge- 
road to the Horseferr}'-road, running due north and south. 
Until 1877, it was called Regent-street, when b}' an Order 
of the Metropolitan Board it was renamed to distinguish it 
from ///(' Regent-street. The Regency Bill was passed in 
1 70S, and it was in lo}-al compliment to the Prince Regent 
(afterwards George IV.), \\\\o laid the first stone of Yaux- 
hall-bridgc on the Westminster side in 181 1, that the street 
was named. The triangular space where this thoroughfare 
meets the Horsefcrry-road is still known as Regent-place, 
and there is a Regent-gardens. Just opposite Chapter- 
street a narrow passage with a board crossing it, bearing 
the grand style and title of "Regent-gardens," may be per- 
ceived, and if the curious explorer pass through, he will find 
a row of small unattractive cottages on either side of him, 
with morsels of gardens behind low dilapidateci palings, 
where some few sickl}' geraniums, Michaelmas daisies, and 
other plants make a brave struggle for life under the 
portentious fro^\■n of a huge gasometer that overlooks the 
end of the court. Another court a few }^ards to the south 
bears the equally euphonious name of Brunswick-place, 
after the exalted personage who laid the second foundation 
stone of Yauxhall-bridge, on the Surrey side in 1S13, which 
has been referred to at page 382. In the centre of Regent- 
place stood until its removal in 1868 the old fire-engine 
house. 

Ridley-place — in Frederick-street. Henr\' Stephen 
Ridle\' was a gentleman who took an active interest as a 
representative of St. John's on the Westminster District 
Board thirty )-ears ago. He designed the Regent Music 
Hall, built by Mr. J. F. Shedlock, who also bore an active 
part in local affairs fort}- }-ears ago. 

R()CMESTER-RO^^' — All the world knows that this impor- 



RigJit Reverends of RocJiester. 437 

tant Westminster thoroughfare was so-called after the 
Bishops of Rochester who, by a combination which continued 
through nine successive incumbencies, united the See of 
Rochester with the Deanery of Westminster, and thus, to 
use Dean Stanley's words, " gave to that poor and neigh- 
bouring bishropric at once an income and a town residence." 
It is not known when the road was first formed — probably 
a cart-way giving access to Tothill-fields from the " road 
leading to the Horse Ferry " had existed here long before 
a single house made its appearance. The first Dean, 
who was also Bishop of Rochester, was John Dolben 
(1663- 1 683), who showed himself so valorous during the 
Civil Wars at Marston Moor and at York, quite in the 
spirit of the militant princes of the church during 
the middle ages. Widmore speaks of him as an 
" extraordinary lovely person, though grown too fat ; 
of an open countenance, a lively, piercing eye, and 
a majestic presence." During the twenty years of his 
office he was held in great esteem by the old inhabi- 
tants of Westminster, and spoken of as "a very good 
Dean." This great prelate, of whom Evelyn and Pepys 
make frequent mention, became Archbishop of York in 
1683. He died at York 1686. He was succeeded by Thomas 
Sprat (1684 — 17 1 3), the most literary Dean since the time 
of Andrewes, a ' Vicar of Bra}' ' in politics, who read James 
II. 's Declaration of Indulgence in the Abbey, almost the 
onl)- church in London where it was read. The famous 
and learned Dean, Francis Atterbury, followed. Perhaps 
no Dean of Westminster w^as so essentially a Westminster 
Dean. A Westminster scholar, a Westminster student at 
Christ Church, he became deeply attached in later life to 
Westminster. In the Memoirs and Correspondence of 
Francis Atterbury, D.D. (Vol. I., p. 11), we read that 
" whilst at school young Atterbury explored the neighbour- 
hood till he had acquired a pretty accurate knowledge of 

2 D 



43 8 Streets and places. 

its attractions, familiarizinij his mind with ' the rural 
beauties of Tothill-fields." 

His sermons in Westminster were long remembered 
(Tatler, No. 66) ; and his antiquarian regard for the Abbey 
and its monuments, his repairs, and his researches are 
matters for which he will be ever held in grateful recollec- 
tion by all who venerate Westminster Abbey. It is sad to 
read of his separation from his beloved haunts, but the 
Jacobite plots in the Deanery, his arrest, his defence and 
trial, his exile, and other details of his fall belong to the 
history of England, and cannot be related here. He died 
at Paris, Feb. 15, 1732. 

Next came Samuel Bradford (1723-31), the first Dean of 
the Order of the Bath ; Joseph Wilcocks (1731-56), during 
whose time Wren's towers were finished ; Zachary Pearce 
(1756-68) the only Dean who ever resigned ; the liberal 
minded John Thomas (1768-93), to whom the Handel 
Festival (1784) owes its origm, and the despotic Samuel 
Horsley (1793- 1802) ; his successor was Dr. William Vin- 
cent, with whose appointment the See of Rochester was, 
after 140 years, parted from the Deanery, to the great re- 
gret of George HI. 

It will thus be seen that the Bishops of Rochester 
were all worthy of their double office ; and it is a pity that 
the name of not a single one of them is connected ^^•ith 
any street or institution in Westminster, whereas that of 
the Dean, with whom the separation of the two offices took 
place, is perpetuated in a ' square,' a * street,' a ' place,' a 
' court,' and a ' row ' ! But perhaps the omission should 
not be wondered at when it is borne in mind that the 
name of the one Bishop of Westminster has only recently 
been given to " Thirleby-gardens," in Ashley-place. 

Rochester-row was the way by which the Pest-houses 
were reached. It may be considered as marking the 
western boundary of I'othill-fields, which extended thence 
eastward to the river at Millbank, and southward from the 



Rochcstcr-roic. 439 

Horsefern'-road towards the Iow-lyin;4 ncat-incadows of 
Pimlico. Down to the end of the i8th century and later 
it was only built upon on the west side, a 'row' of small 
houses extendinjT from the Pound-house (which stood in 
the wide part of Grey Coat-place) to Emer)' Hill's Alms- 
houses, erected in 1708. Emery Hill was undoubtedly a 
stout believer in fresh air, for his almspeople had an un- 
interrupted view right across Tothill-fields to the river and 
over the Lambeth marshes to the heights of Sydenham. 

A properly made-up roadway would appear to have been 
formed in 1782, for in July of that year the Paving Com- 
missioners ordered "that Rochester Row, situate in Tothill- 
fields. be immediately improved by digging a ditch about 
three feet deep, and taking away the present posts and 
rails in order to make a road to accommodate the in- 
habitants with a convenient carriageway." In October of 
the same )'ear a proposal was made at a meeting of the 
Commissioners, on complaint of improper uses, that the 
ditch should be filled up, and a paved channel substituted 
in front of the houses from the Pound House to Emery 
Hill's almshouses ; but the Commissioners evidently not 
liking that their work should be so soon deemed a failure, 
negatived the suggestion. Nothing further was heard of 
the matter, for in 1794, the Paving Commissioners found 
this ditch " to be exceeding bad and filthy and quite filled 
owing to the gardeners' carts passing and re-passing over 
a bridge at the upper end of the row " ; when orders were 
given to have the offending ditch cleansed and the "bridge" 
removed. 

The question of the right of way in Rochester-row soon 
became a matter of some contention with the inhabitants, 
both the Paving Commissioners and the Dean and Chapter 
insisting that the road was private. In 1783 public notice 
was given that the Row was "no thoroughfare for horses 
and carriages"; and in 1802 an applicant for i)crmission 
to "bring his horses and carriages either across the fields 

2 I) 2 



440 



Rochester-row, 




Streets and plaecs. 44 1 

or along Rochester-row" was informed by the leaving Com- 
missioners that "Rochester Row is a private row for small 
carts and carriages to jjass for the convenience of the 
inhabitants only, and not a public thoroughfare, and that 
the road outside the ditch in the fields belongs to the Dean 
and Chapter." Again, ten years later, in Dec. of 1 8 1 2, a Com- 
mittee reported that the posts and rails with the brick arches 
over the ditch had been taken up, and a temporar)- bridge 
made so as to form a public way for traffic, whereby danger 
had been occasioned. It would appear that the damage 
was done b)' the soldiers seeking to obtain by main force 
access to the military hospital at the south end, which was 
erected about 1805. The matter was referred to the Dean 
and Chapter, who replied (May, 181 3) that the roadway was 
merely 'a permission way,' but they admitted that the 
opening of the way would be a great public convenience. 
In 1 8 16, a memorial was received asking to have the ditch 
arched over owing to its filthy and dangerous state. In 
February, 18 19, further complaints were received from the 
military authorities of difficulty in approaching the Guards' 
Hospital in consequence of the bad state of the road. An 
estimate of ^2,100 for repairing the road was rejected, and 
the Dean and Chapter were asked to reinstate the bar taken 
down, so as to stop the traffic, " as it would be entailing an 
endless burden on the parishes to suffer the road to remain 
open as a public wa\-." While, therefore, the Chapter authori- 
ties were willing to cede the user of the road, and the 
inhabitants desired it, the paving authorities were too 
alarmed at the expense of its maintenance to assume juris- 
diction. The Dean and Chapter con.sented to reinstate the 
bar, and provided the lessees with a ke\' each; but in 1822, 
three years later, we find them declining to prosecute 
parties for breaking the bar down. In 18 19 the street was 
first lit with gas. 

Some idea of the condition of the roadway and of the 



442 Rocliester-row. 

evils arising from the multiplicity of authorities, may be 
gathered from the following circumstances : — 

In 1824-5, the solicitor to the Guards served a notice 
upon the Paving Commissioners, requiring them to repair 
the Row sufficiently to enable a hackney coach conveying 
a sick soldier to approach the Military Hospital. He was 
referred to the Governors and Directors of the Poor as the 
proper authorities. The solicitor replied, declining to be a 
party to the disputes then at issue between the Com- 
missioners and the Governors as to which body had 
jurisdiction, and subsequently summoned the former, when 
the magistrate decided against the Commissioners. Appeal 
was allowed, however, to be had, and recognisances were 
entered into, and counsel instructed. Independent sur- 
ve\'ors \Aere called in to advise, and upon their report the 
appeal was abandoned, the road repaired, and the lamps 
which had been removed two or three years previously 
were re-instated and put into lighting. 

In the saine year a Committee reported that " throughout 
the whole of Rochester-row there is a stagnant ditch, 
pregnant with danger, both to the inhabitants and 
passengers"; and in 1837 further complaints of its "shame- 
ful and dangerous state" were received. Nevertheless, so 
chaotic was the state of the law, and the disputed question 
of jurisdiction — the Tothill Fields Trustees became next 
involved — that it was not until 1858, after the passing of 
the Metropolis Local Management Act had made matters 
clearer, that the Rochester-row ditch, which had been 
complained of less than six months after its formation, was 
finally covered over and converted into a properly con- 
struct i.'d sewer. 

In 1865 the houses in Rochester-row were re-numbered, 
and the subsidiary name of Rochester-terrace (Nos. j% to 
102) abolished. 

The drinking fountain in front of St. Stephen's schools 



" Here the street is nnrrouK' 443 

U'as erected and gi\en to the public b\- the Baroness 
Burdett-Coutts in 1882. 

In Rochester-street, which runs in an easterly direction 
out of Rochester-row to the north of St. Stei^hen's schools, 
are the Townshend schools. 

At the north end of Rochester-row is Old Rochester- 
row, between Artillery-place and Grey-coat-place. 

St. Ann'.s-lane and Street — The unsavoury and 
disreputable quarter in which we now find ourselves, with 
its old and ruinous tenements, occupied principally by the 
costermonger class, is a last relic of that dreadful locality 
lying under the ver\' shadow of the Abbe}- and the Parlia- 
ment towers, which Dickens so pungently described in 
Household Words as " The Devil's Acre." That congeries 
of seething courts and alleys, the despair of the clergy and 
the police, has disappeared to make way for Victoria-street 
and Peabod)'-buildings. Nevertheless there remains in 
St. Ann's-lane one of the most interesting memorials of 
the past, that is not to be found elsewhere in all West- 
minster. Its name originates from a chapel or chantry 
which at one time existed close by in connection with the 
Almonry or Ambrey. There were two chapels, one dedi- 
cated to St. Dunstan, and one to St. Anne, the mother of 
the Virgin Mary. It belonged probably to the fraternit}^ 
of St. Anne. In 1576 it was taken on lease by the parish, 
and used ^s a storehouse for wood to be given to the poor. 

Seymour's account of the localit)- in his time (1735) is 
curious — 

" Great St. Afuic's-laiic, a pretty, handsome, well-built, and inhabited 
Place. 

Little St. Anne's-lane lies between Peter-street -AXid. Old Pye-street ; 
but ordinarily built and inhabited. Out of this Lane is a narrow and 
bny Passage into Great St. Annc's-lane, called Aldini^^'s-alley. 

From the Vestry minutes we learn that some of the 

houses were built in 1792. "Great St. Anne's-lane " is 

most probably " St. Anne's-street," and " Little St. Anne's^ 

lane," what is now known as " St. Ann's-lane," betweeil 



44-4 Streets and places. 

Great Peter-street and Old Pye-street. The sweet singer, 

Robert Herrick (1591 — 1674), the boon companion of Ben 

Jonson in his revels, lodged in old St. Ann's-lane. 

Very little is known of the author of the Hcsperides, except 

that he was for twenty }-ears the vicar of a parish called 

Dean Prior, in Devonshire, was ejected by Cromwell, and 

reinstated by Charles II. at the Restoration. Much of his 

poetry, truth to say, is very little in accordance with the 

clerical character, which indeed he seems always to have worn 

very lightly. His life in London, when deprived of his living, 

was a jo)'Ous one ; and, in the lines quoted at the head of 

Chapter XL, he speaks of his " beloved Westminster," 

where he lived until the Restoration. As one of the 

' poetical sonnes ' of convivial-loving Ben, he must have 

often met Shakespeare and the other great wits of that 

glowing age at the renowned ' Mermaid ' : — 

" Souls of Poets dead and gone, 
What Elysium have ye known, 
Happy field or mossy tavern, 
Choicer than the Mermaid Tavern ?" 

Keats. 

Herrick, one of the sweetest of British lyrical poets, died 
at Dean Prior, October 15, 1674. As the poet wrote To 

Daffodils : — 

We ha\e short time to stay as you 

We have as short a spring, 
As quick a breath to meet decay \ 

As you, or anything. 
We die 

As your hours do, and dr)* 
Away, 

Like to the summer's rain, 
Or as the pearls of morning dew, 

Ne'er to be found again. 

St. Ann's-lane will always be remembered through Sir 

Roger de Coverley's youthful adventure there, which 

Addison has so humorously told in No. 125 of The 

Spectator, when dilating upon " Party Spirit " : — 

My worthy friend Sir Roger, when we arc talking of the malice of 
parties, \cry frequently tells us an accident that happened to him when 



'^ Sir Roger dc Coverky' ; Henry Puree!/. 445 

he was a school-boy, which was a time when the feuds ran high be- 
tween the Roundheads and Cavaliers. This worthy knight being then 
but a stripling, had occrsion to inquire which was the way to St. 
Anne's Lane, upon which the person whom he spoke to, instead of an- 
swering his question, called him a young Popish cur, and asked him 
who had made Anne a saint. The boy being in some confusion in- 
quired of the next he met which was the way to Anne's Lane ; but was 
called a prick-eared cur for his pains, and, instead of being shown the 
way, was told that she had Ijeen a saint before he was born, and would 
be one after he was hanged. "L^pon this," says Sir Roger, "I did not 
think fit to repeat the former question, but, going into every lane of the 
neighbourhood, asked what the)' called the name of that lane." By 
which ingenious artifice he found out the place he inquired after without 
giving" offence to any party. Sir Roger generally closes this narrative 
with reflections on the mischief that parties do in the countr>' ; how 
they spoil good neighbourhood, — make honest men hate one another ; 
besides that they manifestly tend to the prejudice of the Land ta.x and 
the destruction of the Game. 

Dr. Henry Purcell, the pride and boa.st of the EngUsh 

.school of music, who was born in Westminster in the year 

1658 (where, is not known), resided in St. Ann's-lane.* 

Mr. W. H. Robinson writing in N^otes and Queries of March 

10, 1877, attempts with good authority to locate the exact 

house — 

There is one interesting circumstance in relation to St. Ann's 
Lane, but I can only give it upon tradition., not having met with it in 
any publication, viz., that the small house No. 1 1 was formerly the 
habitation of Purcell, the composer, who was organist of the Abbey. 
I give this for what it is worth, having received it from my late father, 
who was agent for sexcral successi\e freeholders of the properts' some 
thirty-five to forty years ago. I am, however, inclined to attach some 
credit to the statement from the circumstance that my father was 
hardly likely to have heard Purcell's name in any other connection 
than that of a former occupant of the house. . . . The house 
which 1 attribute to Purcell forms the ' return ' end of a block, prin- 
cipally in Old Pye Street, now used as tramps' lodging-houses, and 
which are almost the solitary remains in London of the old style of 
buildings with overhanging roofs and eaves dripping into the street. 

St. John's parish has every rea.son to be proud of being 
associated with such a name. We therefore venture to 
offer a brief review of the musician's life. Both Purcell's 
father, Henry, and uncle, Thomas, were appointed gentle- 



See Vincent Novello's Life of Purcell, 1826-36. 



44^3 Streets and places. 

men of the Chapel Royal at the Restoration. His father 
died when he was but six years of age; andthe future musi- 
cian 'appears to hav^e entered shortl}- afterwards as one of the 
' children of the chapel ' under a Captain Cook, then 
master, to whom the credit must be given for the early 
cultivation of Purcell's inborn genius. Purcell was remark- 
able for precocity of talent. While yet a boy chorister he 
commenced more than one anthem ; and in 1676, though 
but 18 years of age, he was chosen to succeed Dr. Chris- 
topher Gibbons, as organist of the Abbey, an appointment 
of high professional rank. Dr. Blow, a master in high 
repute at the time, under whom he had studied, 
succeeded him, and his monumental tablet in the Abbey 
proudly records "that he was master to the famous Mr. 
Henry Purcell." Had Purcell confined himself to church 
music only, he would have stood on lofty ground, but the 
greatness of his genius is most conspicuous in his com- 
positions for the chamber and the stage, where the fertility of 
his invention, and the vividness of his imagination, appear 
in all their affluence, because unrestrained by the poetr^^ to 
which he gave musical expression. His settings to Shaks- 
peare and Dryden are inimitable. His odes, glees, catches, 
and rounds are familiar to every admirer of vocal harmony. 
His " To Arms " (duet and chorus), and the air " Britons, 
strike for home!" became national war songs, always received 
with acclamation. The Vestry of St. Margaret's, whose 
loyalt)' and patriotism are everywhere shown in their 
minutes, ordered the chimes in 1740 to be set to the latter 
tune.* Purcell died on November 21, 1695, aged 37, of 
consumption, Hawkins surmises, and was laid in the Abbey. 
Says Dean Stanley of him — "The first musician who was 
buried within the church — the Chaucer, as it were, of the 
Musicians' Corner — was Henry Purcell, organist of the 
Abbey, who died nearly at the same age which was fatal to 
Mozart, Schubert, and Mendelssohn, and was buried in the 



See J.xal Gan'runii-ut in Westniinster, p. 70. 



]''otaj-ics of St. Cecilia. 447 

north aisle of the clioir, close to the origan which he had been 
the first to raise to celebrit)-, and with the Anthem 
which he had but a few months before composed for the 
funeral of Queen Mary." Charles Knight emphatically 
writes of him : " Purcell, take him for all in all, is the 
greatest musical genius this country ever produced ; and 
our deliberate opinion is, that, from the earliest period in the 
histor}' of the art, down to the time of his death, Europe 
would in \-ain be searched to find his equal as a composer 
of secular music ... so rich in melod}', so expressive 
of the depth and energy of true passion, that all who under- 
stand the English tongue, who haveacquired some knowledge 
of the language of music, and have no governing predilection 
for an}' particular school, confess his power, and admit the 
originality and vigour of his genius." His tablet was placed 
in the Abbey by Eady Elizabeth Howard, the wife of 
Dryden, to whom the inscription is attributed — " Here lies 
Henry Purcell, Esq., who left this life, and is gone to that 
blessed place where only his harmony can be excelled." — 

'" That undisturbed song of pure consent, 
Aye sung before the sapphire-colour'd throne 
To Him that sits thereon, 
With saintly shout, and solemn jubilee, 
Where the bright seraphim in burning row, 
Their loud uplifted angel-trumpets blow. 
And the cherubic host, in thousand choirs, 
Touch their immortal harps of golden wires, 
With those just spirits that wear victorious palms, 
Hymns devout and holy psalms. 
Singing eveilastingiy I" 

MlI.TOX. 

Another musician, William Heather, "doctor in musick," 
lived in a house near St. Ann's-lane (Walcott). He is princi- 
pall}'to be remembered, at any rate in Westminster, for having 
left a benefaction to King Charles's Hospital in Tothili- 
fields (the Green Coat School). Wy his will he gave ^100 
" unto and for the Benefitt and good of the sayd Poorc 
Children of the sayd New Hospitall in We.stm'' to be 



448 Streets and places. 

Imploy'd as the Vestry men of St. Marg:'' in Westm : for 
the time being shall thinke fitt ; Item I give more unto the 
sayd Children of the sayd Hospitall x/." 

King Charles I. did not grant his Letters Patent to St. 
Margaret's Hospital (as it was also called) till 1633, so that 
Dr. Heather — Hatton spells the name as " Heath " in his 
N'ew Viezv of London — was, by his will and perhaps during 
his lifetime, one of the earliest supporters of a charity 
which ultimately formed the nucleus of the United West- 
minster Schools. He died July 2, 1627 — 

" Pure in deeds 
At last he beat his music out." 

Tennyson. 

Under the heading of " St. Anne's-lane," Walcott says 
that John Rushworth, M.A., the hi.storical writer, "lived for 
some time in great obscurity in Westminster." It would be 
most interesting to learn if there were any truth in the im- 
plication that that unfortunate scholar lived in St. Ann's- 
lane in his latter days of royal neglect and disgrace. As 
one of the clerks to the House of Commons, he was present 
when King Charles attempted to seize the five members. 
It appears to have been Rush worth's practice to take down 
in a species of shorthand what he thought worth preserving, 
and the king, having observed him taking his speech in 
characters, required a copy of it. Rushworth tried to ex- 
cuse himself, pleading how Mr. Neville had been sent to the 
Tower for telling his majesty what was spoken in the 
House. Charles smartly replied, " I ask you not to tell me 
what was said by any member, but what I said myself" 
Rushworth's Historical Collections of Private Passages of 
State, Weight}' matters in Law, and Remarkable proceedings 
in Parliament (161 8 to 1648) have been of immense value 
to historians of that period. The first volume was unfor- 
tunately ushered in by a high-flown dedication to the new 
Protector Richard. The author thereby lost all hope of 
royal favour, and after living in great obscurity and poverty, 



"^ companion to the couimon streets^'' 449 

he was arrested for debt and sent to the King's Bench prison 
in 1684, where he died in 1690. The poor author latterly 
took to drink to 'drown care,' and his mind and memory 
were nearly gone for some time before his death. 

As a fair sample of the mob violence prevalent in the 
1 itter part of the last century, we read in the Old British 
Spy, Januar)' 4, 1783, that three men were committed to 
Newgate by William Addington, Esq., a magistrate, " on a 
charge against them on oath, for riotoush' and tumultuously 
assembling together to the disturbance of the public peace, 
and for demoli.shing and pulling down four dwelling houses 
situate in St. Anne's-lane, Westminster, belonging to the 
Governors of the Grey Coat Hospital." Evidently the 
enormities of the mob which followed Lord George Gordon 
had not been forgotten. 

Coming down now to the early part of the present 
century we find that the inhabitants of St. Ann's-lane 
become more on a par with the genius loci as we know it. 
In Mr. J. T. Smith's Vagabondiana, we are told that about 
the year 1816 there lived here — 

A notable beggar, John McNally, of Tyrone, who had lost the use 
of his legs by a log that had crushed both his thighs. His head, 
shoulders and chest were exactly those of a Hercules. This extra- 
ordinary torso was drawn on a truck by two dogs, Boxer and Rover 
whom he had trained, by which contrivance he increased his income 
beyond belief Though this mans dogs, when coupled, have occasiona 
snarlings, particularly when one scratches himself with an over- 
strained exertion, the other feeling at the same time an inclination to 
dose ; yet w hen the master has been dead drunk, and become literally 
a log on his truck, they have very cordially united their efforts to 
convey him to his lodgings in St. Ann's-lane, Westminster, and 
perhaps with more safety than if he had governed them, frequently 
taking a circuitous route during street repairs, in order to obtain the 
clearest paths. 

" Beggar ? — the only freeman of your Commonwealth ; 
Free above Scot-free, that observe no laws, 
Obey no governor, use no religion 
But what they draw from their own ancient custom 
Or constitute themselves.'" 

Drome, 

Says the entertaining author of Old and New London ; 



4^0 Stfceis ami places. 

" There is an old saying among Londoners, quoted in 
Moryson's Itinerarie, to the effect that ' woe be to him who 
buys a horse in Smithfield, or who takes a servant from St. 
Paul's, or a wife out of Westminster.' Judging from the 
appearance of the female part of the community inhabiting 
many of the narrow courts and alleys abounding in this 
neighbourhood, one would be almost inclined to feel that 
the latter part of the saying above quoted holds good even 
in the present day." 

Such is the class of inhabitants that is usually associated 
with this quarter of Westminster, so long notorious as the 
haunt of thieves and ruffianism, the home of professional 
poverty and extreme misery, and the hiding place of vice's 
sad victims, and of human wreckage from every shoal and 
rock in life's dangerous ocean. Now, however, a change for 
the better is gradually spreading over the place. Recent sani- 
tary legislation is bringing about a marked improvement in 
such of the old property as is allowed to run its full lease of 
life, and the prodigious enhancement of land value in W^est- 
minster is causing stately mansions to rise on the site of 
wretched courts and alleys, to the regret of the antiquarian, 
perhaps, but to the great content of all whose regard for 
the public morals and the public health is paramount. 
Thus the whirligig of Time brings in his revenges. 

Twelfth Xlght. 

In St. Ann's-street, nearly opposite Old Pye-street, is 
the second-class entrance to the Public Baths and Wash- 
houses (j^t'^ Chapter XV.) which are at the time of writing in 
course of being rebuilt. 

St. Ann's-court is a narrow and disreputable place on 
the east side of St. Ann's-street. It is about to be absorbed 
in the new factory of Messrs. Burroughes and Watts, the 
billiard-table manufacturers. 

St. Jomn-STREET — leads from the north-west corner of 
Smith-square into Wood-street. This mediocre street of 
ordinary two-storey brick-houses was, in the beginning of 



St. Jolin-strcct ; St. Matthcio-strcct. 45 I 

the present century, occupied by ' carria<^e folk;' 
but they have lony^ since forsaken it. From the 
Vestry minutes of 1807 we read of complaint made 
of the condition of St. John-street — "so dangerous 
that we cannot get coaches or any other carriages 
up to our doors for fear of being overturned, and 
are therefore obliged to cause such coaches and carriages 
to stop at the north-end of the street in Wood-street." 
Complaint was at the same time made that the street was 
not lighted at night. 

A plan preserved in the British Museum shows that in 
1739 St. John-street had not been formed, although the 
surrounding streets had been built. 

St. Matthew-street (formerly Duck-lane)— The name 
of Duck-lane, Mr. Walcott surmises, "was probably derived 
from the number of those birds which frequented the 
straight canals and runnels by which early maps represent 
the immediate vicinity to have been divided." Seymour, 
in 1735, thought it "a Place of no great Account." Dr. 
Christopher Gibbons, known by his beautiful " Cathedral 
Services" and chants, lived in this lane. Dean Swift's lines 
on the death of himself contain a reference to Duck-lane as 
being a place in London where old books were sold — 

" Some country squire to Lintot goes. 
Inquires for 'Swift in Verse and Prose.' 
Says Lintot, ' I have heard the name ; 
He died a year ago.'— 'The same.' 
He searches all the shops in vain. 
'Sir, you may find them in Duck lane ; 
I sent them with a load of books 
Last Monday to the pasty-cook's — 
To fancy they could live a year I — 
I find you're but a stranger here.' I " 

Duck-lane was, before the Westminster Improvements, a 
somewhat notorious neighbourhood. Walcott, speaking 
with the fulness of personal knowledge, says : " Its site has 
but recently been demolished of all its lab)'rinthine courts 
and stifling passages, in order to be prepared for the forma- 



452 Streets and places. 

tion of that great boon to lower Westminster, the ne\r 
Victoria-street." 

The Blue Coat School was first founded in this lane in or 
about the year 1688, by Dr. Thomas Jekyll. A brief notice 
of the school is given in chapter XV. 

According to " a Westminster antiquary," writing in the 
West London Press, of Aug. 28, 1886, there was a cock-pit 
in the lane which survived until the Westminster Improve- 
ments in 1847 swept it away. Duck-lane extended from 
Great Peter-street to Orchard-street. So much of it as was 
not demolished in 1847 was, by order of the Metropolitan 
Board of Works, dated 7th October, 1864, renamed " St. 
Matthew-street," in recognition of the new " district of St. 
Matthew, Great Peter-street" (1850) in which it is now 
comprised. 

SmitH-S(^UARE — was known more generally as " St. 
John's church-yard," until the early part of the present 
century. Mr. Fitzgerald has felicitously described its semi- 
respectable gentility, reminding one forcibly of som.e poor 
wight endeavouring to preserve the appearance of a long- 
past prosperity : — " Going on a little farther we come to the 
massive, curious church, which stands in Smith-square, the 
houses running round being of an odd, old fashion, unlike 
anything in London. It might be in a country town. This 
quarter, too, is one of those which has a distinct character, 
even in its squalor. But it is still pervaded by the ecclesias- 
tical cathedral flavour of the Abbey adjoining." 

In Smith-square died, in June, 1806, Mrs. Susannah 
Churchill, widow of Mr. John Churchill, of Abingdon-street, 
(see page 399 j, brother of the satirist ; and in February 
1807, at his house in St. John's church-yard, Westminster, 
aged 86, Thomas Newton, a relation of the great Sir Isaac. 

The description given by Dickens in Our Mutual Friend 
of Smith-square, has been quoted at page 47. Another 
illustrious novelist, Lord Beaconsfield, shows, in his 
remarkable romance of Sybil, or T/ie Two Nations, so 



Entrance to Smith-square fro ))i Millbank-street. 453 



minute an acquaintance with this out-of-the-way secluded 
neighbourhood — a sort of back-water, as it were, of the 
turbulent current of Hfe, streaming along close by — that one 
may be allowed to infer that the great statesman, when a 







'^ 






S 2 



1^ 



member of the Lowcr]Housc, found a refuge and a hiding- 
place from ' Lobbyists ' and a thousand other distractions 
in these sober streets, during the course of a dull debate, or 
to collect his thoughts for one of his brilliant replies. The 
following quotation though somewhat long, will be excused, 

2 E 



454 Streets and places. 

when it is seen how intimate Lord Beaconsfield was with 
the locality, and how faithfully he depicts its peculiar 
characteristics : — 

■ Egremont had met Sybil in the Abbey, and insisted 
upon attending her home — 

And guided by her, they turned up College Street. . . . 

While they thus conversed, they passed through several clean, still 
streets,^'' that had rather the appearance of streets in a very quiet 
country town, than of abodes in the greatest city in the world, and in 
the vicinity of palaces and parliaments. Rarely was a shop to be re- 
marked among the neat little tenements, many of them built of curious 
old brick, and all of , them raised without any i-egard to symmetry or 
proportion. Not the sound of a single wheel was heard ; sometimes 
not a single individual was visible or stirring. . . . The area round the 
church, which was sufficiently ample, was formed by buildings, generally 
of a mean character : the long back premises of a carpenter, the 
straggling yard of a hackney-man ; sometimes a small, narrow 
isolated private residence, like a waterspout in which a rat might 
reside ; sometimes a group of houses of more pretension. In the 
extreme corner of this area, which was dignified by the name of Smith'- 
Square, instead of taking a more appropriate title from the church o. 
St. John which it encircled, was a large old thouse, that had been 
masked at the beginning of the century with a modern front of pale- 
coloured bricks, but which still stood in its courtyard surrounded by its 
iron railings, withdrawn as it were from the vulgar gaze like an individual 
who had known higher fortunes, and blending with his humility some- 
thing of the reserve which is prompted by the memory of vanished 
greatness. ' This is my home ' said Sybil. ' It is a still place and 
suits us well' 

Near the house was a narrow jpassage which was a thoroughfare 
into the most populous quarter of the neighbourhood. As Egremont 
was opening the gate of the courtyard, Gerard ascended the steps of 
this passage, and approached them. . . . 

They entered the large gloomy hall of the house, and towards the 
end of a long passage Gerard opened a door, and they all went into a 
spacious inelancholy room, situate at the back of the house, and look- 
ing upon a small square plot of dank grass, in the midst of which rose 
a weather-stained Cupid, with one arm broken, and the other raised in 
the air, and with a long shell to its mouth. It seemed that in old days 
it might have been a fountain. At the end of the plot, the blind side of 
a house offered a high wall which had once been painted in fresco. 

* Barton-street, Cowley-street, and North-street. 

tThis house is evidently the old " Rectory House." 

:!:" Church passage," at the side. 



Lord Beaconsfield and SniitJi-sqnare. 455 

Though much of the coloured plaster had cracked and peeled away, 
and all that remained was stained and faded, still some traces of the 
original design might yet be traced : festive wreaths, the colonnades, 
and perspective of a palace. 

In this old Rectory House so minutely described by the 
noble author, the best scenes in the book are laid, between 
Egremont and Sybil, the representatives of the " Two 
Nations "—the Rich and the Poor, the Privileged and the 
People. 

Not only the church, but the old clock appears to have 
attracted the notice of Disraeli. His readers will recollect 
the chartist Morley's passionate interview with Sybil, in 
which the latter had attempted to save her father from the 
consequences of implication in the chartist rising — 

Morley had rushed frantically from the house, raging with jealous 
anger. " She darted out of the room to recall him ; to make one more 
effort for her father ; but in vain. By the side of their house was an 
intricate passage * leading into a labyrinth of small streets. Through 
this Morley had disappeared ; and his name, more than once sounded 
in a voice of anguish in that silent and most obsolete Smith Square, 
received no echo. . . . 

The clock of St. John's struck seven. 

It was the only thing that spoke in that still and dreary scjuare ; it 
was the only voice that ever seemed to sound there ; but it was a voice 
from heaven, it was the voice of St. John. 

" Sybil looked up ; she looked up at the holy building. Sybil 
listened ; she listened to the holy sounds. St. John told her that the 
danger to her father was so much more advanced. Oh ! why arc 
there saints in heaven if they cannot aid the saintly ! The oath that 
Morley would have enforced came whispering in the ear of Sybil 
' Swear by the holy Virgin, and by all the saints.' And shall she not 
pray to the holy Virgin, and all the saints ? Sybil prayed ; she prayed 
to the holy Virgin, and all the saints, and especially to the beloved 
St. John, most favoured among Hebrew men, who reposed on the 
the breast of the divine Friend. 

" Brightness and courage returned to the spirit of Sybil ; a sense of 
animating and exalting faith that could move mountains and combat 
without fear a thousand perils. The conviction of celestial aid inspired 
her. She rose from her resting-place, and re-entered the house; only, 
however, to provide herself with her walking attire, and then, alone 
and without a guide, the shades of evening already descending, this 

* Church-passage. 

2 K 2 



456 Streets and places. 

child of innocence and divine thoughts, born in a cottage and bred in 
a cloister, went forth, on a great enterprise of duty and devotion, into 
the busiest and the wildest haunts of the greatest of modern cities." 

It may be mentioned here that the rectory house was 
erected simultaneously with the church. The accounts, in 
great detail, are preserved in the Public Record Office ; 
but it is sufficient to say here that the total cost was 
£i,?>2y los. 3d., exclusive of the site. 

As has been stated in Chapter II. (page 24), the site of 
the parish church, and of the rectory house in the square 
was purchased of Henry Smith, the freeholder in 171 1. 

The houses in Smith-square were re-numbered in 1869. 

(Great) Smith-.street — with Smith-square and Little 

Smith-street, are said by Walcott to have " derived their 

names from Mr. Smith, the Clerk of the Works at the time 

of their erection." But there is little reason to doubt that 

the true derivation is that of Hatton — 

" Smith Street. A new street of good buildings, so called from Sir 
James Smith, the ground landlord, who has here a fine house. It is 
situated in Westminster fronting the Bowling Alley on the west side 
of Peter Street." 

At the commencement of the last century (1705) there 
was a turnpike in Smith-street. 

Thomas Southern (or Southerne), the dramatist, had a 
house in Smith-street, in which he died. Southern was an 
Irishman, born in Co. Dublin (Oxmantown) in 1660. Pre- 
ferring poetry to law, he early left Trinity College, Dublin, 
for London, and soon became a popular writer of plays, the 
first being the Persian Prince^ acted in 1682. At the time 
of Monmouth's rising Southern served in the King's army 
and on quitting it resumed his dramatic writing. He en- 
joyed great popularity, and lived on terms of intimacy with 
those of his contemporaries most distinguished for wit or 
rank — among whom were Dryden and Pope. Doran, in his 
Annals of the Stage* says of him, " He was a perfect gen- 
tleman ; he did not lounge away his days or nights in coffee- 
houses or taverns, but after labour cultivated friendship in 

* Vol. I., chap. IX. 



Thomas Southern; Sir Richard Steele. 457 

home circles, where virtue and modest mirth sat at the 
hearth. . . . He kept the even tenor of his way, owing 
no man anything ; never allowing his nights to be the 
marrer of his mornings ; and at six-and-eighty carrying 
a bright eye, a steady hand, a clear head, and a warm heart 
wherewith to calmly meet and make surrender of all to the 
Inevitable Angel." Southern was fond of Westminster, and 
lived for many years at Mr. Whyte's, the oilman's, in Tot- 
hill-street, against Dartmouth-street — afterwards the shop 
of Mr. Mucklow, who left a charitable bequest to the parish. 
Southern died at a very advanced age, in Smith-street, on 
26th May, 1746, and was buried in St. Paul's, Covent- 
garden. 

" I venerate the man whose heart is warm, 
Whose hands are pure, whose doctrine and whose hfe, 
Coincident, exhibit lucid proof 
That he is honest — " 

COWI'EK. 

Sir Richard Steele (1671-1729) is another great Irishman 
who is associated with Smith-street, although but slightly. 
The essayist and colloborateur with Addison writes (about 
1797), after the death of his first wife, " to his dear Prue," 
from Smith-street, Westminster, from Chelsea, and from 
many coffee-houses and taverns. " Isaac Bickerstaff " 
married his second wife in October, 1707, when he settled 
down in Bury-street, St. James's. " His own sweet 
Prue " is buried in the south transept of the Abbey, near 
Poets' Corner. 

William Nichols (or Niccholls), D.D., the theologian, 
lived in Smith-street in 171 1. Born in 1664, he published 
TJie Religion of a Prince in 1704, and the work for which 
he is principally remembered, Conwient on the Book of 
Common Prayer, in 17 10. He died 30th April, 1712. 

Edward Wortley Montagu, grandson of the celebrated 
Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, bequeathed (1777) all his 
father's books and manuscripts to John English Dolben. 
The will reads : " I request that he will publish such 



458 Streets and places. 

of the latter as he may choose, and give the profits that may- 
arise, to and for the use and benefit of Mrs. Ann Burgess, 
formerly of Great Smith street, Westminster, as a small 
acknowledgment for the more than motherly kindness with 
which she treated me during the ten years I was in her 
house while at Westminster School." Unfortunately, no 
further information can be obtained of Mrs. Burgess's other 
boarders. 

The name of " Charles Dilk " appears as the rated house- 
holder of a house in Smith-street, in the Poor Rate books 
of the parishes for the years 1821 to 1824, inclusive. An 
inquiry made of Sir Charles W. Dilke, M.P., the present 
baronet, confirmed what had been surmised, that Sir Charles 
Dilke's talented grandfather, Charles Wentworth Dilke, 
was a resident in Great Smith-street, in order to be near his 
son, who was a scholar at Westminster School. Mr. Dilke, 
who was born in 1789, after his retirement from a situation 
in the navy pay-office, became proprietor of TJie AtJien(2um 
in 1830, which up to that time had not been successful. 
His intimate friends were the Hoods, Charles Lamb, 
A. Cunningham, Dickens, Forster, Chorley, J. H. Reynolds, 
and John Keats ; and Thackeray, Cobden, Barry Cornwall, 
Bulvver, Mrs. Hemans, Landor, Hook, the Hovvitts and the 
Brownings were also to be counted amongst his acquaintance. 
His only son, afterwards Sir Charles W. Dilke, Bart., M.P., 
the Commissioner, born in 1810, was at Westminster from 
1 82 1 to 1826, when, holding the highest position in the 
school, he was taken by his father to Italy. In 1831 
Mr. Dilke reduced the price of The AtJienccuvi from 8d. 
to 4d.,to the dismay of Lamb, Reynolds, Cunningham, and 
others, and by his bold and energetic management, made it 
not only a popular and influential journal, but a commercial 
success. In 1846 he gave up the editorship to Mr. Hervey, 
and soon after became the editor of the Daily Neivs, when 
he lowered the price from 5d. to 2^d. (including stamp 
duty), by which step that newspaper became the forerunner 



Great Smith-street. 459 

of the cheap daily press. Mr. Dilke edited a collection of 
Old English Plays, and his declining years were spent in 
literary luxury in 'his tub,' — as his library was called. He 
made a collection of works — bound no two alike, so that he 
might know them at a glance — bearing on the Junius 
problem, upon which subject he wrote a series of articles 
that give evidence in every line of the ripest scholarship 
He died near Farnham, August 10, 1864. 
. The above facts are taken from a memoir written by the 
present Sir Charles Dilke of his grandfather, prefaced 
to a collection of articles on Pope, ' Junius,' Burke, 
Wilkes, &c., entitled Papers of a Critic (1875). 

From the Gentleman's Magazine we learn that Captain 
Patrick Mount, R.N., died in Smith-street, on May 5, 1790, 
aged 78 ; and on January 11, 1799, Edward Beckwith, of 
the Auditor's office. 

In Great Smith-street was the " City of Westminster 
Literary, Scientific, and Mechanics' Institution," afterwards 
the " Free Public Library." An account of these institu- 
tions will be found elsewhere (chapter xv.) The Public 
Baths and Wash-houses (see also chapter xv.), of which Mr. 
Walcott spoke so hopefully just before their establishment, 
have recently been demolished (1892) to make way for a new 
block of buildings more worthy of the parish and of the 
times. 

That part of Great Smith-street which lies between 
Victoria-street and Orchard-street was known until 1865 as 
Dean-street, when an Order of the late Metropolitan Board 
abolished the name. The whole of the houses in the 
thoroughfare between Victoria-street and Marsham-strcct 
were then re-numbered and thenceforth known as Great 
Smith-street. The name was no doubt suppressed in order 
to prevent confusion with a "Dean-street, Bloomberg-street, 
Vauxhall-bridge-road " mentioned in Cooke's Local Direc- 
tory, 1847. In this street was, until its demolition at the 
time of the Westminster Improvements, the Workhouse of 



460 Streets and places. 

St. Margaret's and St. John's parishes. There is a fine 
water colour sketch of this workhouse (a red brick structure) 
in the Grace Collection at the British Museum. 

Little Smith-street is an unpretentious short thorough- 
fare turning out of Great Smith-street on the east side, 
opposite the Public Baths, into Tufton-street. The Choir 
House of the Abbey was on the north side, but new hand- 
some premises have recently been erected opposite, at the 
corner with Tufton-street, to make room for the new 
Church House that is to occupy the whole of the site 
between Dean's Yard and Little Smith-street on the north 
and south, and between Great Smith-street and Tufton- 
street on the west and east. 

Mr. John Buller, a commissioner of excise, died at his 
house here on 26 November, 1793. 

Strutton-GROUND — Seymour describes " Stretton- 
grounds," as he spells the name, as being " a good, hand- 
some, long, well-built, and inhabited street, which runs up 
to Tothill-fields, almost against the new Workhouse for 
employing poor people ; and hath on the West a Passage 
into the new Artillery-ground, a pretty large Inclosure, 
made Use of by those that delight in Military Exercise." 

The somewhat singular name of Strutton-ground, which 
was at one time a mere lane leading to Tothill-fields and 
the road to the Horse P^erry, is a corruption of the name 
of Stourton. Stourton House, the mansion of the Lords 
Dacre of the South stood at the south-west end of ancient 
Tothill-street, " by the entrance into Tothill-fields." It 
was built anew by Gregory Fiennes, the last Lord Dacre of 
the South. He died childless in 1594, and it was his wife 
(Anne, sister to Lord Buckhurst) who founded, by will made 
in the same year as her husband's death, the " Hospital of 
Jesus," or " Emanuel Hospital," still situate in James-street 
close by. Opposite this house was that of Lord Grey de 
Wilton, and both are shown on Norden's map of London, 
1603. 



Tuf ton-street. 461 

Taciibrook-STREET — was built between 1845 and 1850, 
and was occupied for many years by well-to-do ' city men,' 
who gradually forsook it as the facilities for locomotion 
enabled them to migrate to the suburbs. Many of the 
houses are now let in apartments to the working classes. 
The boundary between the parishes of Westminster and 
St. George, Hanover-square, passes down the centre of the 
street through its entire length, beneath which passes the 
King's Scholars' pond sewer. Bishop's Tachbrook is the 
name of a parish three miles south-east of Warwick. 

' Upper Tachbrook-street ' was the name formerly borne 
by that part of Tachbrook-street which lies between 
Vauxhall-bridge-road and Churton-street. The prefix 
"Upper" was abolished in 1881, when the whole of the 
street from Lupus-street to the Vauxhall-bridge-road was 
re-numbered and named " Tachbrook-street, S.W." 

A professional gentleman living in St. George's-square, 
whose father and grandfather practised largely in 'our 
parish,' has in his possession a testimonial publicly presented 
to his grandfather in recognition of his bravery in rescuing a 
child from drowning in the " Tach Brook." It has been 
suggested that the part of the King's Scholars' pond sewer 
which runs beneath the road was locally known by that 
name, and gives the name to the street ; but the suggestion 
lacks confirmation. 

TUFTON-STREET. — Prior to 1869 Tufton-street only ex- 
tended from Wood-street to Horscferry-road, the remaining 
part, from Great College-street to Wood-street, having been 
formerly known as Bowling-street. The name is derived 
from Sir Richard Tufton of Tothill-street, its first builder. 
Sir Richard was the fourth son of Sir John Tufton, of 
Hothfield, knight and baronet. Sir Richard died Oct. 4, 
1 63 1, and is buried in the Ambulatory in King Edward the 
Confessor's chapel, Westminster Abbey. In 1735, when 



462 Streets and places. 

Seymour made his survey, this street was not half built. 
He thus describes it — 

" Tuf ton-street, a good, large, and open Place, having on the east 
side a Row of well-built Houses, but the west side as yet is unbuilt. 
In this street is Benet^s-yard, very ordinary." 

In the minutes of St. John's Vestry it is called " a great 

thoroughfare for carriages." There was a cock-pit in this 

street so late as 181 5, when the Rev. Joseph Nightingale 

wrote his History of the City and Liberty of Westminster. 

He says : — 

In this street there is a building devoted to the brutal and 
unmanly amusement of cock fighting. It is a large circular area, 
with a slightly elevated platform in the centre,' surrounded by benches, 
rising in graduation to nearly the top of the building. That I might 
be enabled to give this short description, and it merits no other, I have 
been compelled to witness for a short time one of the most disgraceful 
and shocking scenes ; for I had no opportunity of going in except at 
the time of fighting. Here were several hundreds of persons of almost 
all ages, ranks and conditions, clamorously betting and uttering the 
most dreadful imprecations, while the poor animals were excited by 
every species of irritation of which they were susceptible, to the des- 
truction of each other. 

The Gentleman's Magar:ine contains the following obituary 

notices : — 

Nov. ^7, 17 gy. In an apoplectic fit, Mr. Finney of Tufton-street, 
Westminster ; a well-known literary character in diurnal 
publications. 

March 8th, 1802. Of a consumption, under which he had lingered 
many years, aged 57, Mr. Thomas Wapshott, of Tufton- 
street, Westminster, builder, respectable in his profession, 
having repaired the parish church of St. Paul, Covent-garden, 
1789, and rebuilt it after the dreadful conflagration of Sept. 
17, 1795, with such nearness and simple elegance as at once 
attract the notice of every spectator ; together with Paddington 
church. South Lambeth chapel, and many other public 
edifices. 

On the west side of Tufton-street are courts named 

Tufton-place, William's place, and Bennett's-yard (which 

extends into Marsham-street), of which nothing further can 

be said. On the east side are the St. John's National 

Schools {see Chapter XV.) and Little Tufton-street, leading 

into Smith-square.' 



A notorious adventurer. 463 

Bowling-alley (or Street) — Mr. Walcott says of this 
street : — 

The Abbey, with its gates, ahiionry, bell-towers, granary, dormi- 
tory, sanctuary, and the monastic buildings enclosing it on every side, 
must have appeared glorious in the prime of its magnificence indeed, 
when compared with its present denuded aspect, — St. Margaret's 
Church and the Cloisters being the last and only relics of its many 
former beautiful and imposing accessories. Still some streets in the 
vicinity preserve the memory of the old places, upon the sites of which 
they have been built. Among others we find Bowling-alley, which was 
erected upon the Green, where the members of the Convent amused 
themselves at the game of bowls. 

Seymour, in his Survey, thus describes the locaHty : — 

The Bowling-alley falls into Great Dcaii s-alle}\ in the north : It is 
well-built and inhabited ; in which are Ohver's-yard, and a Place called 
Back-alley, both ordinary. 

The name of BowHng-alley is associated with the 
notorious Thomas Blood, generally called Colonel Blood, a 
native of Ireland, and an adventurer of no mean character. 
He is believed to have been born about 1628. He served 
as lieutenant in the parliamentary forces, and had a grant 
of land assigned to him for his pay. Henry Cromwell put 
him into the commission of the peace. After the restoration. 
Blood joined a design for surprising Dublin Castle and 
seizing the person of the Duke of Ormond, then lord- 
lieutenant. The conspiracy was, however, discovered on the 
eve of its execution, and Blood fled, harboured by the native 
Irish in the mountains, and afterwards to Holland and Eng- 
land. He joined the F'ifth Monarchy men, and after defeat 
in the action of Pentland Hills (Nov. 27, 1666) fled back 
to England, thence to Ireland, and thence to England again, 
where he lived for a time in disguise at Westminster, 
meditating revenge against the Duke of Ormond, whom he 
actually seized on the night of Dec. 6th, 1670, in his coach 
in St. James's-street, with the intent, as was believed, of 
carrying him to T}-burn, and there hanging him. The duke, 
who was tied on horseback to one of Blood's associates, 
only managed by a violent effort to fling himself and the 
assassin to the ground, and while they were struggling 



464 Streets and places. 

in the mire, the duke's servants rescued their master. 

Blood had so cunningly contrived this enterprise that he 

was not suspected of being concerned in it, though a reward 

of ;^i,ooo was offered by proclamation to discover the 

perpetrators. 

" So smooth he daub'd his vice with show of virtue, 
He hved from all attainder of suspect." 

Richard III. 

The miscarriage of this design put him upon one, still more 
strange and hazardous, to repair his broken fortune, upon 
which the bad eminence of his infamy principally rests. 
The author of the Romance of London has so well told the 
tale that we cannot do better than quote his graphic 
account : — 

Scarcely had the public amazement subsided at Colonel Blood's out- 
rage upon the Duke of Ormond, when, with the view of repairing his 
fallen fortunes, he plotted to steal the crown, the sceptre, and the rest 
of the regalia from the Tower, and share them between himself and his 
accomplices. The regalia were, at this time, in the care of an aged 
man, named Talbot Edwards, who was exhibitor of the jewels, &c., and 
with whom Blood first made acquaintance, disguised " in a long cloak, 
cassock, and canonical girdle," with a woman whom he represented as 
his wife, who accompanied him to see the crown and jewels. 

The lady feigned to be taken ill, upon which they were conducted 
into the exhibitor's lodgings, where Mr. Edwards gave her a cordial, 
and treated her otherwise with kindness. They thanked him, and 
parted ; and, in a few days, the pretended parson again called with a 
present of gloves for Mrs. Edwards, in acknowledgment of her civility. 
The parties then became intimate, and Blood proposed a match between 
Edwards's daughter and a supposed nephew of the Colonel, whom he 
represented as possessed of £,100 or ^300 a year in land. It was 
arranged, at Blood's suggestion, that he should bring his nephew, to be 
introduced to the lady, at seven o'clock on the morning of the ninth of 
May, 167 1 ; and he further asked leave to bring with him two friends to 
see the regalia, at the above early hour, as they must leave town in 
the afternoon. Strype, the antiquary, who received his account from the 
younger Edwards, tells us that " at the appointed time the old man rose 
early to receive his guest, and the daughter dressed herself gaily to re- 
ceive her gallant, when behold, parson Blood, with three men, came to 
the jewel-house, all armed with rapier blades in their canes, and each 
with a dagger and a pair of pistols. Two of his companions entered 
with him, and a third stayed at the door to watch. Blood told Edwards 
that they would not go upstairs till his wife came, and desired him to 
show his friends the crown, to pass the time. This was agreed to; but 



How Colonel Blood stole the Crown. 465 

no sooner had they entered the room where the crown was kept, and 
the door, as usual, been shut, than ' they threw a cloth over the old 
man's head, and clapt a gag into his mouth.' Thus secured, they told 
him that ' their resolution was to have the crown, globe, and sceptre ; 
and if he would quietly submit to it, they would spare his life, otherwise 
he was to expect no mercy.' Notwithstanding this threat, Edwards 
made all the noise he could, to be heard above ; ' they then knocked 
him down with a wooden mallet, which they had brought with them to 
beat together and flatten the crown — and told him that if yet he would 
be quiet, they would spare his life, but if not, upon his next attempt to 
discover them, they would kill him, and they pointed three daggers at 
his breast,' — and the official account states, stabbed him in the belly. 
Edwards, however, persisted in making a noise, when they struck him 
on the head, and he became insensible, but, recovering, lay quiet. 
The three villains now went deliberately to work : one of them, Parrot, 
put the globe (orb) into his breeches ; Blood concealed the crown under 
his cloak ; and another was proceeding to file the sceptre asunder, in 
order that it might be put into a bag, 'because too long to carry.' 

Thus, they would have succeeded but for the opportune arrival of 
young Mr. Edwards, from Flanders, accompanied by his brother-in-law. 
Captain Beekman, who proceeded upstairs to the apartments occupied 
by the Edwards. Blood and his accomplices, thus interrupted, in- 
stantly decamped with the crown and orb, leaving the sceptre, which 
they had no time to file. Edwards, now freed from the gag, shouted 
"Treason" ! " Murder" ! and his daughter rushing out into the court, 
gave the alarm, and cried out that the crown was stolen. Edwards and 
Captain Beekman pursued the thieves, who reached the drawbridge ; 
here the warder attempted to stop them, when Blood discharged a 
pistol at him ; he fell down, and they succeeded in clearing the gates, 
reached the wharf, and were making for St. Katherine's-gate, where 
horses were ready for them, when they were overtaken by Captain 
Beekman. Blood discharged his second pistol at the Captain's head, 
but he escaped by stooping, and seized Blood, who struggled fiercely ; 
but on the crown being wrested from him, in a tone of disappointment 
he exclaimed, " it was a gallant attempt, however unsuccessful, for it 
was for a crown" ! A few of the jewels fell from the crown in the 
struggle, but they were recovered and replaced. 

Blood, with Parrot (who had the orb and the most valuable jewel of 
the sceptre — the baleas ruby — in his pocket), were secured and lodged 
in the White Tower, and three others of the party were subsequently 
captured. Parrot was a dyer in Thames-street. One of the gang was 
apprehended as he was escaping on horseback. 

Young Edwards now hastened to Sir Gilbert Talbot, master of the 
jewel-house, and described the transaction, which Sir Gilbert instantly 
communicated to the King, who commanded him to return forthwith to 
the Tower, and when he had taken the examination of Blood, and the 
others, to report it to him. Sir Gilbert accordingly returned, but the 
King, in the meantime was persuaded by some about him to hear the 



4^6 Streets and places. 

examination himself ; and the prisoners, in consequence, were 
immediately sent to Whitehall ; a circumstance which is thought to 
have saved them from the gallows. Blood behaved with great effrontery: 
being interrogated on his recent outrage on the Duke of Ormond, he 
acknowledged, without hesitation, that he was one of the party ; but on 
being asked who were his associates, he replied that " he would never 
betray a friend's life, nor deny a guilt in defence of his own." Lest the 
concealment of his associates should detract from the romance of his 
life, he also voluntarily confessed to the King that he. Blood, on one occa- 
sion concealed himself among the reeds above Battersea,in order to shoot 
his Majesty while bathing in the Thames, over against Chelsea, where he 
often went to swim ; — that he had taken aim for that purpose, but "his 
heart was checked by an awe of Majesty ;" and he did not only himself 
relent, but also diverted his associates from the design. This story was, 
probably, false ; but it had its designed effect on the King, strengthened 
by Blood's declaration that there were hundreds of his friends disaffected 
to the King, and his ministers ; whereas by sparing the lives of the 
few he might oblige the hearts of many, "who, as they had been seen 
to do daring mischief, would be as bold, if received into pardon and 
favour, to perform eminent services for the crown." 

Thus did the audacious and wary villain partly over-awe and partly 
captivate the good nature of the King, who not only pardoned Blood, 
but gave him a grant in land of ^500 a year in Ireland, and even 
treated him with great consideration, "as the Indians reverence devils, 
that they may not hurt them.". Blood is said also to have frequented 
the same apartments in Whitehall as the Duke of Ormond, who had 
some time before barely escaped assassination. 

Charles received a cutting rebuke for his conduct from the Duke of 
Ormond, who had still the right of prosecuting Blood for the attempt 
on his life. When the King resolved to take the Colonel into his 
favour, he sent Lord Arlington to inform the Duke that it was his 
pleasure that he should not prosecute Blood, for reasons which he was 
to give him ; Arlington was interrupted by Ormond, who said, with 
formal politeness, that " his Majesty's command was the only reason 
that could be given ; and therefore he might spare the rest." Edwards 
and his son, who had been the means of saving the regalia, were 
treated with neglect ; the only reward they received being grants out 
of the Exchequer, of ^200 to the old man, and ^100 to his son ; which 
they were obliged to sell for half their value, through difficulty in 
obtaining payment. 

Strype adds, " What could have been King Charles's real motive for 
extending mercy to Blood must for ever be a mystery to the world " : 
unless it was to employ his audacity " to over-awe any man who had 
not integrity enough to resist the measures of a most profligate 
Court." 

Colonel Blood, not long after his Tower exploit, was met in good 
society by Evelyn, who, however, remarked his " villainous, unmerciful 
look ; a false countenance, but very well spoken, and dangerously 
insinuating." 



" Villain complete in parson's goivnJ' 467 

" And thus I clothe my naked villany 
With old odd ends, stol'n out of holy writ, 
And seem a saint, when most I play the devil." 

Richard III. 

For several years applications were repeatedly made to 
the throne through the mediation of Blood, and the indul- 
gence shown to him became a public scandal. The Earl of 
Rochester has the following lines in his History of 
Insipids : — 

" Blood, that wears treason in his face, 
Villain complete in parson's gown, 
How much is he at court in grace, 

For stealing Ormond and the crown I 
Since loyalty does no man good. 
Let's steal the king and outdo Blood." 

The last line but one probably alludes to old Edwards. 
When the " Cabal " fell to pieces, Blood's consequence at 
court declined. He then attempted to fix a scandalous 
imputation on the Duke of Buckingham, his former patron, 
who obtained a verdict of i^ 10,000 damages in the court of 
King's Bench. Blood was thrown into prison, but finding 
"bail, was allowed to retire to his house in the Bowling- 
alley, in order to take such measures as were requisite to 
extricate himself from his troubles ; but he found so few- 
friends, and met with such numerous heavy disappoint- 
ments, that he fell into a distemper which speedily threatened 
his life. He was attended in his sickness by a clergyman, 
who found him sensible, but reserved, declaring that he was 
not at all afraid of death. After fourteen days' sickness, he 
fell into a lethargy and expired August 24th, 1680. Blood 
was quietly but decently interred two days after in New 
Chapel Yard, Broadway (now Christ Church, Victoria- 
street), "but," says Cunningham, "dying and being buried 
were considered., by the common people in the light of a 
new trick on the part of their old friend the Colonel. So 
the coroner was sent for, the body taken up, and a jury 
summoned. There was some difficulty at first in identify- 
ing the body. At length the tluunb of the left hand, which 



468 Streets and places. 

in Blood's lifetime was known to be twice its proper size, 

set the matter everlastingly at rest ; the jury separated, 

and the notorious Colonel was restored to his grave in the 

New Chapel Yard." 

And so ended the life of as pretty a rogue, knowing how 

" to smile and smile and be a villain," as any the history of 

England can show — 

" A cutpurse of the empire and the rule ; 
That from a shelf the precious diadem stole, 
And put it in his pocket ! " 

Hamlet. 

A broadside published at the time, styled An Elegie on 

Colonel Blood, thus commemorated his welcomed demise — 

Thanks, ye kind fates, for your last favour shown, — 
For stealing Blood, who lately stole the crown. 

At last our famous hero, Colonel Blood, — 

Seeing his projects all will do no good, 

And that success was still to him denied, — 

Fell sick with grief, broke his great heart, and died. 

Walcott says that the house which was once the 
residence of Blood stood at the junction of Great St. 
Peter and Tufton-streets, overlooking Bowling-alley ; but 
according to a fine water-colour sketch made by Shepherd 
in 1853, and preserved in the Crace collection at the British 
Museum, the house can be identified as that now numbered 
38 and 40 in Tufton-street, on the west-side, and close to 
the north-west corner of the street, at its junction with 
Wood-street. It is an old red-brick structure of three 
storeys, and is pierced by the archway of Tufton-place in 
the centre ; the doorways of Nos. 38 and 40, approached by 
steps, are at the extreme ends of the house, right and left ; 
the basement is enclosed in iron railings ; and the house has 
attic dormers. Although now dilapidated, the house bears 
every evidence of having been built for the occupation of 
" gentle " people, as indeed were at one time all the houses 
in this street and the vicinity. This house was distinguished 
by a shield with a coat of arms — " now obliterated," says 



Vauxhall-bridge-road. 469 

Walcott (1849) — built into the brick work over the first 
storey. The Rev. Mr. Aglionby, the present vicar of Christ 
Church, says that all trace of Blood's grave has long since 
disappeared. 

* Like father, like son.' The son of the Colonel, Captain 
Bloodj is stated to have kept up his gentility {circa 1692) 
by stopping His Majesty's mails. 

Bowling-alley and Bowling-street were one and the same. 
Perhaps the word ' street ' was of a later date, when the 
term ' alley ' began to have a depreciative meaning. 

Vine-terrace — between Church-passage and Tufton- 
street, was abolished in name at the same time (1869) as 
Vine-street. 

Olivers-court — was in Bowling-alley, on the west side. 

Black Dog-alley is a narrow court running from Great 
College-street into Tufton-street. According to Walcott, 
it stands on the site of Abbot Benson's small garden ; "and 
the Hostelry Garden (where the visitors of the monastery 
were entertained) extended over the ground which lay be- 
tween the Bowling Green and the river-bank." 

Vauxhall-bridge-road — Extending from Vauxhall- 
bridge and Bessborough-gardens to Victoria-station, may 
be regarded, though of so recent date, as forming roughly 
the boundary line between the postal districts of 'West- 
minster' aiid ' Pimlico.' The road of course owes its origin 
to the construction of Vauxhall-bridgc, which in its turn 
was built for the purpose of affording facility of access for 
visitors to the once famous Vauxhall-gardens. {Seepage 255). 
Cooke's Westuiinster Local Directory (1847), mentions 
" Vauxhall-bridge-road, from the bridge to the corner of 
Warwick-street," showing that the northern half was not 
built forty-five years ago. 

Hughson in his Walks through London {I'^iy) says: — 
" The new road to Vauxhall Bridge runs immediately to 
the rear of the west side of this [Vincent] square; and since 
the road was constructed, a number of new houses, and even 

2 F 



470 Streets and places. 

new streets, are building on each side, especially since the 
bridge was thrown open." 

Houses were erected on either side piecemeal fashion, 
— terrace after terrace — and thus a number of subsidiary- 
names came into existence, which were abolished in 1865, 
by an Order of the late Metropolitan Board, dated 6th 
January. The greater part of Vauxhall-bridge-road (from 
the bridge to Rochester- row) lies in St. John's parish, a 
very small portion (Rochester-row to Francis-street) in St. 
Margaret's parish, and the remainder of its length in St. 
George's. Without drawing a hard and fast line, therefore, 
it may be convenient to give here the full list of the sub- 
sidiary names in Westminster suppressed in 1865, for the 
sake of future reference : — 

On the Jtorth side — 
{ti) Gloucester-terrace, from Francis-street to Rochester-row. 
{b) Bloomburg-tcrrace,* from Rochester-row to Bloomburg -street, 
originated in the establishment, in the year 1857, of an experimental depot in 
Bloomburg- terrace, Vauxhall-bridge-road. 

ic) Providence-terrace, from Stanford-street to Edward-street. 
{(i) *St. Alban's-terrace (or place), from Edward-street to Carey- 
place. 
{e) Roehampton-place, from Wheeler-street to Roehampton-street. 
On the south side. 

(/') Uchoir-terrace, from the corner with Tachljrook-street to 

Warwick-street. 
{g) *iM ikon-terrace, from Churton-street to the Guards' Hospital, 

4 houses, now 163-5-7-g, \^auxhall-bridge-road. 
(//) "St. James's-teri'ace, from the Military Hospital to Charlwood- 

street, now 147-9, i5i-3-5-7-9i Vauxhall-bridge-road. 
(/) *Elizabeth-place, from Chapter-street to Dorset-street. 
(7) *Staffbrd-place, 6 houses, counting from Russell-street, now 
13, 15, 17, 19, 21-3, Vauxhall-bridge-road. 

The eastern or bridge end of the road was cut through 
the Salisbury estate purchased by Jeremy Bentham about 
1800 for a site for Millbank Penitentiary. The tramway 
was first laid in the road in 1 87 1 -2. Though upwards of 
1,370 }-ards in its entire length, and of an average width of 
sixty feet, Vauxhall-bridge-road. is a dull thoroughfare. 

* The extensive Army Clothing Depot in the Grosvenor-road (opened 1859). 
Those marked * are given in Cooke's Directory. 



Vauxhall-bridge-i'oad. 47 1 

" Here in the long unlovely street " there is not a single 
house that can be pointed out for recognition as remarkable 
or interesting. On the south side are the Scots Guards' 
Hospital (^j^^ chap. XV.), and further eastwards the schools at- 
tached to the church of the Holy Trinity. The monotonous 
tinkleof the ha'penny tram added, until recently, to the depres- 
sion of what might have been a fine thoroughfare — a second 
Regent-street — full of movement and flanked by handsome 
shops and magazines. Perhaps such a future is in store for 
it, when the promised new Vauxhall bridge is a reality; for 
so direct and commodious a route between two important 
railway stations ought to possess a more prosperous and 
lively appearance than its present stuccoed lodging-houses 
and third-rate shops afford. 

liut what see you beside ? A shabby stand 

Of hackney coaches— a brick house or wall, 

Flanking some lonely court, white with the scrawl, 

Of our unhappy politics ; — or worse — ■ 

A wretched woman reeling by, whose curse 

You must accept in place of serenade. 

Shelley. 

Toll bars, erected by the Bridge Company, who main- 
tained the road, stood at the junction of several of the 
smaller streets with this road until fifty years ago. 

The site of the Pest-houses — the Seven House.s — was 
perpetuated by Five Chimney-court, now called Douglas- 
place. A map of the city and liberty of Westminster made 
by Thomas Cooke in 1847, shows Five Chimney-court 
running off Vauxhall-bridge-road on the north side im- 
mediately to the north west of Dorset-street, and places it 
beyond doubt that Douglas-place occupies the spot where 
the lonely Pest-houses once stood, in the midst of Tothill- 
fields. The court is also shown by a plan of Ta)'lor's, 1828. 
Lack's cottages in Douglas-place were incorporated with 
the ' place ' in 1889. 

Vincent-square has been already dealt with {sec page 310). 
The houses were re-numbered in 1871, and again in 1884. 



472 Streets and places. 

Vincent-street now reaches from the square to Earl-street, 
crossing Regency-street. In it are Vincent-court and 
Vincent-row. Vincent-place is in Frederick-street ; the 
houses were re-numbered in 1886. By an Order of 
the late Metropolitan Board, dated i8th July, 1873, 
Wilton-street was incorporated as part of Vincent-street. 
It extended from Earl-street to Kensington-place, and was 
named after Lord Grey de Wilton. The first Earl of 
Wilton was Sir Thos. Egerton, seventh baronet, whose 
peerage was in remainder to the second and all the 
younger sons successively of his daughter, who married 
Lord Belgrave, afterwards Marquis of Westminster ; his 
baronetcy, however, reverted to the next male heir. The 
second earl assumed the surname of Egerton in lieu of his 
patronymic Grosvenor in 1821 (Dod's Peerage). 

The name of Vincent-terrace on the south side of 
Vincent-street (Nos. 71 to 83), was superseded by an order 
of the Metropolitan Board of Works in 1873. 

A very small part of Warwick-street is in Westmiinster — 
that which lies between Tachbrook-street and Vauxhall- 
bridge-road ; the rest, which extends to Ebury-bridge, is in St. 
George's parish. And even of that small part, only four houses 
on the south side are in St. John's parish. But Warwick- 
street has every claim to be noticed here, inasmuch as it is 
considered by good authorities to be identical with the old 
Willow Walk — a footway which crossed Tothill-fields from 
the ' Ship' Tavern at Millbank due west in the direction of 
the Vauxhall-bridge-road, passing the ' Chimney Houses.' 
On each side of it was a ditch and a line of pollard 
willows : sufficient indication of the humid nature of old 
Tothill-fields.— 

" Some trees their birth to bounteous Nature owe ; 
For some, without the pains of planting, grow. 
With osiers thus the banks of brooks abound, 
Sprung from the watery genius of the ground. 
From the same principles grey willows come, 
Herculean poplar, and the tender broom." 

ViKGIL, GeORGICS II. 



The Half-pC7tny Hatch; JVood-street. 473 

The eastern end of the " walk " was also known by the 
name of the Halfpenny Hatch — the proprietor used to 
charge wayfarers the sum of a halfpenny each for using the 
hatch. Many similar " hatches " at one time existed 
amongst the suburban fields, as at Lambeth, Bermondsey, 
and in the neighbourhood of Tottenham-court-road. The 
authors o\ Rejected Addresses (1803) mention the Hatch in 
making reference to the burning of Astley's theatre — 
Next at Millbank he crossed the river Thames ; 
Thy hatch, O Half-penny I passed in a trice, 
Boil'd some black pitch, and burnt down Astley's twice. 

It should be mentioned that there is a Willow-street close 
by in St. Margaret's parish, extending from the opposite 
corner of Vauxhall-bridge-road with Rochester-row tc 
Francis-street. 

Walcott-street was the name given by a Metropolitan 
Board Order dated 7th December, 1888, to that part of 
Douglas-street which extended from Rochester-row to 
Vincent-square. A brief notice has been given of West- 
minster's latest and best historian under the head of Great 
College-street {page 412), where he lived during his connec- 
tion with St. Margaret's parish. 

Wheeler-street and John's-place (Bell-street) were named 
after Canon John Wheeler, 1792. 

WOOD-.STREET. — Seymour had a very poor opinion of 
this street as he found it in 1720. — " IVood-street very narrow 
with ordinary Houses especially on the north side, being 
old boarded Hovels ready to fall, and wants new building ; 
this street also falls into the Mill-bank" 

" At the corner of Wood-street, when daylight appears, 
Hangs a thrush that sings loud, it has sung for three years." 

Walcott relates that it was into " the Blind Dock," on 
the north side of the wharf opposite Wood-street, that 
Catherine Hayes, in 1726, threw her husband's head, having 
cut it off with the assistance of two accomplices. A lighter- 
man found the ' severed head ' in the water, and the 
magistrate ordered it to be set upon a pole in St. Margaret's 



474 Streets and places. 

church-yard. " The murderess in consequence was soon 
discovered, and committed to Tothill-fields Bridewell. She 
suffered at Tyburn on May 9, 1726, the dreadful death of 
burning, as the executioner was unable, owing to the quick 
spread of the fire, to strangle her ; and the spectators 
expressed their detestation of her atrocity by heaping fresh 
faggots about the stake." 

John Carter, F.S.A., the distinguished architect and 
antiquary, lived in this street. He was born in Piccadilly 
on June 22nd, 1748, the son of a sculptor, who left him 
destitute at the early age of 15. Richard Gough, the anti- 
quary and topographer, made 2^ protege of him ; and his 
etchings, engraved in the Sepulchral Monuments, made 
him known to Sir John Soane, Dr. Milner, John Kemble, and 
Lord Orford, to the last of whom he dedicated Specimens of 
Ancient Sculpture and Painting. For the Society of Anti- 
quaries he made surveys of several cathedrals and the 
College of St. Stephen. "He watched with a provoked eye 
the architectural innovations of the last century, which bid 
fair to injure irreparably the Abbey, St. Margaret's Church, 
and other ancient buildings." He also published Ancient 
Architecture of England, 1795 — 1S16. He died on 
September 8th, 181 8. 

The portion of Wood-street between Tufton-street and 
Marsham-street was known as Little Peter-street until 29th 
May, 1868, when the name was abolished by order of the 
Metropolitan Board of Works. 

Having conducted the considerate reader to those streets 
and places which present anything worthy of record in 
these pages, we feel constrained, in closing so long a 
chapter, to offer an apology for having encumbered it with 
so much tedious detail. It will probably be allowed, 
however, that the many particulars relating to the nomen- 
clature of the streets, may be of some service in years to 
come, in the identification of the places, if not also of some 
of the properties, which have undergone change in that 
respect. 



''For trnth, for duty, mid for loyalty y 475 



Chapter XIV. 



PAROCHIAL PATRIOTISM AND PATRONAGE. 



" This England never did, nor never shall 
Lie at the proud foot of a conqueror, 
But when it first did help to wound itself. 

Come the three corners of the world in arms. 

And we shall shock them. Nought shall make us rue 

If England to itself do rest hut true." 

King John. 

" Stirred up with the high hopes ofliving to l)e brave men and worthy patriots, dear to 
and famous to all ages." — Milton. 



Westminster on the defensive. — William Wilberforce. — liennet Lang- 
ton.— The Armed Association formed. — Regulations. — The King's 
approval. — Reviews in Hyde-park.^Presentation of Colours. — The 
Corps disbanded. — Loyalty in various forms. — Special Constables. 
— Jacob Cole, ' a merry soul.' — The value of Vestry patronage. — 
Importance of Westminster as a constituency. — Some exciting 
elections. — Macaulay's description.- — X'^estry activity. — List of Par- 
liamentary representatives. 



T N this chapter it is proposed to notice the loyalty 
and patriotism of our forefathers in St. John's, and to 
give a few brief references to the value which attached, a 
centur)- ago, to the support and influence of our Vestry ' 
in connection with parliamentary elections. 

In order to do justice to the first of the two subjects, it 
would be necessary for us to picture to ourselves the state 
of England, if not that of ICurope in the closing years of the 
last century ; but though we turn from the blood-thirstiness 
which was so raj^idly spreading over P^rance at the time, 
we cannot lose sight of the consternation and dismay which 
prevailed throughout ICngland. Yet, the note of despair 
was never heard. If there was mutiny in small sections of 
of the navy at home, there was victory abroad — victory 
which immortalised the names of Nel.son and Collingwood 



476 Loyalty and patriotism. 

and Duncan ; and victory which raised the patriotism of 
England to a point it had never previously attained. With 
a powerful camp formed at Boulogne, and a large flotilla in 
readiness to carry out the invasion of ' our tight little island,' 
the patriotism soon took a practical form, nowhere more so 
than in Westminster, where ' our Vestry,' in conjunction 
with their confreres in St. Margaret's were quickly on the 
alert. On 28th April, 1798, they issued a circular to the 
parishioners as follows : — 

Sir, 

At a meeting of the Vestries of St. Margaret and St. John the 
Evangelist, Westminster, held this day, it having been resolved 
expedient, in the present state of public affairs, to form an Armed 
Association therein, and to appoint a Committee for carrying such 
Resolutions into effect ; and you being nominated one of that Com- 
mittee, I am desired to request the favour of your attendance in 
St. Margaret's Vestry Room, on Tuesday next, at half-past 10 
o'clock precisely, for the above purpose. 

I am, Sir, 

Your obedient servant, 

S. STEVENSON, Sec. 

Then follows a list of the Committee, composed of 
25 inhabitants, who were vestrymen, and 25 inhabitants 
not vestrymen ; all alike eager to help King George — 
. . . in his time of storm 
As every loyal subject ought to do. 

3 Henry VI. 

Many were doubtless eminent men in their day ; 
but from each list we will take only one name, selecting 
from the first that of William Wilberforce. 

Ten years before this {i.e., in 1788), when he was seated, 
as he tells us, with Mr. Pitt, in Holwood Park, under a large 
oak tree "just above the steep descent into the vale of 
Keston," he resolved to bring in a bill for the emancipation 
of the slaves in the British possessions. A stone seat 
placed by Lord Stanhope now marks the spot, and the 
large oak is still vigorous. For thirty-five years longer 
this noble man was to continue his work, ere he could 
see it consummated, 



" JVe swear a voluntary zeal." /\.yy 

From the " Inhabitants not Vestrymen," we will take the 
name of Bennet Langton, of Langton, in Lincolnshire, the 
beloved friend of Samuel Johnson, who says of him, 
" Langton, Sir, has a grant of free warren from Henry the 
Second, and Cardinal Stephen Langton in King John's 
reign, was of this family " ; again, " the earth does not 
bear a worthier man than Bennett Langton," and again, 
" I know not who will go to heaven if Langton does not." 

If these two gentlemen were types of the men 
forming the Committee of the Armed Association, then 
verily a nobler and more patriotic Committee could hardly 
be found to exist ; the one, belonging to the same family 
as he who led the barons when they took the shackles off 
the people of England, and forced King John to sign 
Magna Charta, on i8th June, 121 5 ; the other, who was to 
take off the fetters and set free the African slaves in our 
dominions. 

This Committee soon got to work, for three da)'S after 
their first meeting : viz., on May ist, we find this minute 
recorded : — 

" At a meeting of the Committee, appointed at a joint meeting of 
the Vestries, for forming an Armed Association within these Parishes, 
held in St. Margaret's Vestry Room. 

The R' Hon. Lord Viscount Belgravc in the chair. 

It was resolved unanimously as follows : — 

I. That this Association shall be composed of Householders, and 

such other Inhabitants in these Parishes as may be recom- 
mended individually by two Householders, being Members of 
the Association. Also that the Committee be empowered to 
reject from this Association any Individual whether House- 
holder, or Inhabitant. 

II. That this Association shall consist of a P>ody of Infantry, 

armed with Muskets and Bayonets, and be formed into Com- 
panies, which shall be commanded by Officers to be elected 
by their said respective Companies, subject to the Api)r()ba- 
tion of His Majesty. 

III. That this Association shall be for the Protection of these 
Parishes ; it being understood, that no person shall be 
obliged, in any Case, to go out of the said Parishes, without 
his own individual Consent. 



4/8 Loyalty and patriotism. 

IV. That a Uniform l^e worn l^y the Association as follows, viz. A 
Blue Coat, with Black Collar and Yellow Buttons, White 
Waistcoat and Pantaloons, round Hat and Cockade. 

V. That the Association provide themselves with Uniforms, and 

that the Arms and Accoutrements be furnished either by the 
Individuals themselves, according to Pattern, or by Applica- 
tion to Government. 

VI. That the Committee shall be at liberty to accept as Honorary 
Members of this Association, such Persons as either from 
their not constantly residing within these Parishes, or from 
the State of their Health, or from any other Cause, cannot 
engage for their constant Attendance. 

VII. That the Corps shall not be required to exercise more than 
twice a Week, nor more than Two Hours at each time. 

VIII. That the Committee will meet in Saint Margaret's Vestry 
Room on Thursday next, and following days (Sundays 
excepted), from the Hours of Ten o'Clock till Two, for the 
purpose of receiving the Names of such Persons as are in- 
clined to join the Association. 

It was also Unanimously Resolved, That the thanks of 
this Meeting be given to the Chairman, for his ready Assistance, 
and Zeal in promoting the Business of this day. 

Resolved also. That the foregoing Resolutions be inserted in 
the public Papers, and distributed by Hand Bills among the 
Inhabitants. 

By order of tJic Co/iiiniftee. 

SIMON STEPHENSON, Secretary. 

Subsequent minutes of the Armed Association record 
that, while an application to the Dean for the use of the 
College Garden as a training ground was unsuccessful. Lord 
Gwydyr had granted the use of the Court of Requests, and 
the Government had placed the Cotton Garden at the 
disposal of the Association for the purpose. " The Right 
Honourable Lord Viscount Belgrave," of St. John's, was 
unanimously elected by ballot as the Commanding Officer. 

" Stand forth ! be men ! repel an impious foe, 
Impious and false, a light yet cruel race, 
Who laugh away all x'irtue, mingling mirth 
With deeds of murder. 

Stand we forth ; 
Render them back upon the insulted ocean 
And let them toss as idly on its waves 
As the vile sea-weed." 

Coi.EKIDGE. 



" In mutual^ well be-seeniing ranks " 479 

Encouraged by the ready response to the appeal for 
funds for the corps and the band, the Association passed a 
further series of resokitions fixing the strength of the corps 
at ten companies, or 800 rank and file ; directing that 
application be made to the Government for 24 pikes, 
7 drums, 450 stand of arms, and ammunition for 800 men ; 
and according thanks to the churchwardens of the two 
parishes for having obtained the leave of the united 
vestries for the erection of a butt in Tothill-fields for ball- 
cartridge practice. 

A letter from the Lord Lieutenant of Middlesex to Lord 
Belgrave informs him that Mr. Dundas " had laid the plan 
of the Association of the parishes of St. Margaret and St. 
John before the King ; That His Majesty had derived great 
satisfaction from the zeal and public spirit which had given 
rise to that offer, and had been most graciously pleased to 
accept the same." 

A grand review, at ^\•hich 6,693 men presented themselves 
— 525 infantry and 116 cavalry from Westminster — took 
place on the King's birthday, 4th June, 1799. The corps 
were to be on the ground before 7 a.m., and to be in readi- 
ness for the arri\al of the King at 9 o'clock. The regula- 
tions issued by His Royal Highness Frederick, Com- 
mander-in-Chief, included an order that at the eighth 
cannon " three English cheers will be given, hats and 
hands waving in the air, drums beating, and music playing 
' God .save the King.' " A letter, dated from the Horse 
Guards the same day, and signed ' Frederick F.M. Com- 
mander-in-Chief stated that " His Royal Highness, the 
Commander-in-Chief has His Majest}''s particular com- 
mands to communicate to the several corps of Volunteers 
assembled this morning in Hyde-park, the great satisfac- 
tion with which His Majesty witnessed their regularity and 
military appearance, and the strong manifestation of their 
cordial and affectionate attachment to His Majesty." The 
King inspected them again on the 21st June, and a some- 
what similar circular was issued. 



480 Loyalty and patriotism. 

Another review was held in Hyde-park in July, 1801, when 
4,700 Associated Corps mustered, and when the West- 
minster Cavalry formed the escort of the Prince of Wales. 
Upwards of 30,000 spectators were present* 

On 4th January, 1804, our local corps took a prominent 
part in proceedings which are recorded in great detail in 
the Gentlcmari s Maga::ine, vol. Ixxiv., pt. I., p. 71, from 
which the following is extracted : — 

The splendid and interesting spectacle which was this day displayed 
at Ranelagh fully answered the expectation which had been formed of 
it. Its effect was greatly heightened by the ease and adroitness with 
which the Queen's Royal Volunteers performed their part of the cere- 
mony, together with the great regularity observed in all the other 
proceedings of the day. At 9 o'clock the Westminster Cavalry mus- 
tered in Hyde-park : their accoutrements were in excellent order, their 
horses in high condition, and they exhibited a very striking military 
appearance : they then proceeded to Ranelagh, to take the different 
stations which had been appointed for them. A party of them were 
stationed at the end of Ranelagh-lane, close to the Green, and at the 
beginning of it, and others patrolled the road leading from Ranelagh to 
Buckingham-gate. The corps being thus judiciously disposed, no large 
body of people could assemble, or carriages accumulate, to obstruct the 
general arrangements. The St. Margaret and St. John's Volunteers 
assembled at an early hour in Westminster-hall, and thence proceeded 
to Ranelagh-green. A detachment of them formed a line across the 
green, to keep the doors free from the pressure of curious intruders : 
another party was stationed to examine persons on foot, as they passed, 
to ascertain if they had tickets, and to prevent those who were not so 
fortunate from passing the line. A small detachment was posted at 
the carriage-gate leading into the gardens, to prevent any person pass- 
ing that way, and to keep a clear passage for the Royal carriages. At 
a quarter past 12, the trumpet announced the arrival of the Courtly 
party in three of his Majesty's carriages. They were preceded by two 
Noblemen's carriages, and followed by fi\e. When they reached the 
gate leading into the garden, which it was necessary for them to pass 
through, Major Rolleston rode before them uncovered, and ushered 
them into it. As the first of the Royal carriages was passing through 
the gateway, the horses became restive for some time, till one of the 
St. Margaret and St. John's Volunteers seized the bridles, and led them 
along. The Royal retinue having reached the entrance at the West 
side of the Rotunda, Major Rolleston alighted from his horse, and 
handed the Countess of Harrington and her attendants from their 
carriages. . . . 

* Gentleman^ s Magazine, vol. Ixxi. , pt. II., p. 661. 



TJie ''Queens" at Ranelagh. 481 

Ranelagh has seldom exhibited so distinguished a display of beauty, 
elegance, and fashion. On the arrival of the Countess in the box fitted 
up for her reception, the two regiments of the Queen's Royal Volunteers, 
under the command of Lord Hobart, having taken their station two 
hours before, presented arms, with the bands playing. As soon as the 
corps had shouldered arms, two pairs of colours were introduced, and 
placed on each side of the Royal box. The King's colours of each 
regiment was a plain Union Standard, but the county or regimental 
colour, which has been designed and executed by the Princess, was a 
superb piece of needlework. The ground was a rich purple silk, and 
in the centre of the colour were her Majesty's arms, embroidered and 
surrounded with sprigs of variegated colours and designs. At the lower 
corner were the letters C.R. ; and under the coat of arms were the 
words " Queen's Royal Volunteers." .... 

The Chaml^erlain then descended from the box, and gave the 
colours to Major Rolleston, who was in the box with her Ladyship, 
and on his knees held them by a piece of ribband, which tied them 
together, two and two. 

Major Rolleston now untied the ribband, and gave the golden cord 
which supported the tassels into her Ladyship's hand, and she 
gradually let the colours descend to the ensigns, who were on their 
knees ready to receive them : they then arose and went to present 
them to their regiments, who received them with presented arms, 
while the band played " God save the King." 

The regiments did not march pass her Ladyship ; this part of the 
ceremony was rendered impracticable, from the concourse of spec- 
tators. Immediately on the Countess receiving the royal salute, she, 
with her attendants, returned in the same manner as they came. The 
regiments marched four deep to Lord Hobart's, and lodged their 
colours. They quitted them as they received them, with present arms, 
officers saluting, &c., after which they were dismissed. 

The following letter to Lord Belgrave, from William 

Wilberforce, from Broomfield, and dated March 27th, 1799, 

will be read with much interest in connection with this 

volunteer movement : — 

My Dear Lord, 

We are all apt to delay the Execution of a painful Duty, and 
I have too long put off the Task to which I am now proceeding, of 
declaring to you more formally, what I have already thrown out to 
you in private, that I must decline any longer belonging to the 
Westminster Corps, even as an Honorary Memljer. 

My cordial wish to promote that Excellent Institution prompted me 
to offer my Services, such as they might pro\e, Ijut I am sorry to say, 
that I find that I undertook far more than I am able to execute, in 
holding out the expectation of my being, at any time, serviceal^lc in 
a Military Capacity, to which both my Strength and my Weak Health 



482 Loyalty and patriotism. 

render ne wholly incompetent. I am therefore under the necessity of 
retiring, but allow me to request your Lordship to do me the Honour 
to Explain to the Corps, the motives which absolutely compel me 
to relincjuish a situation, which I honour and esteem, and to assure 
them, that it will ever give me pleasure as a Committee man, and in 
every other way, to manifest the sense I entertain of the value of the 
Institution, and the earnest desire I feel to render to it my best, tho' 
feeble co-operation and assistance. 

If I were writing to any other person, I should perhaps proceed to 
state my unaffected unwillingness to break an)' link which unites 
me with your Lordship, but I will only say, on this part of tlie 
subject, that my reluctance to cjuit the Corps is increased by the 
honour and benefit it derixes from having )'our Lordship at the 
Head of it. 

I remain, with cordial regard, 
My dear Lord, 

Yours very sincerely, 

W. WILBERFORCE. 

We cannot forbear inserting another letter, the writer 
being a gun-maker carrying on business in Parliament- 
street : — - 

"Gentlemen, 

Finding from the nature of my business that I cannot 
with propriety join your Armed Association, and having received a 
circular letter stating that -Awy pecunimy assistance would be accepted, 
beg lea\'e to present you with a Musket and Bayonet as my mite 
towards your fund ; and any ad\ice I can give respecting the Arms in 
general shall be at your service.'' 

I am, &c., 

W. LOWE. 

A note at the back of the letter says " With a Musket." 
A letter from Mr. Vidler, of Millbank-row announced his 
'willingness to give i^2o to the fund, and offered the corps the 
use of his field for training. He hoped that no foe would 
dare to provoke their "just displeasure (without suffering 
death thereby), which I trust is the hope of every true 
friend of his country." 

In times of disturbance or apprehended riot, and at fires, 
the Association placed the services of its members at the 
disposal of the civil authorities. 

One of the engraved silver plates on the ' Westminster 



The local corps disbanded. 483 

Tobacco Box ' represents the Armed Association of the 
two parishes at a drum-head service in Westminster Hall 
in 1804. 

The corps were disbanded in 1805, when their colours 
were deposited in the parish church of St. Margaret. In 
the course of a rummage in the tower of the church in 
1885, they were fortunately brought to light. They were 
forthwith repaired, and shortly afterwards handed to the 
Queen's Westminster Volunteers, by whom they were 
publicly presented to the Church, in a highly interesting 
ceremony, on the 27th March, 1 887. They were subsequently 
placed on either side of the chancel, where it is hoped they 
may long remain a memorial of the unswerving loyalty of 
the united parishes. 

The outburst of loyalty and patriotism evinced at this 
crisis was no new thing in the history of ' our pari.sh.' 
Fifty-three years before, in 1745, the young Pretender had 
landed in June, had made him.self master of Edinburgh in 
September, and had entered Carlisle on 6th November. 
On the 23rd of the same month the United Vestries of 
St. Margaret and St. John resolved that a subscrip- 
tion should be opened for raising a sum of money " for the 
immediate support and defence of His Majesty against 
his rebels, and for the support of the public peace." The 
' Middle.sex and Westminster Associations ' were also 
formed " for enlisting men into his Majesty's land forces." 
The Vestry accorded its unanimous support to the objects 
of the association, and voted a bounty of ^5 to every man 
between 17 and 45 years of age, and of a minimum height 
of 5 ft. 5 in., who enlisted. 

On 7th December, 1792, the Vestry passed a long reso- 
lution setting forth " the blessings derived from the present 
excellent form of government," and forming themselves 
into an Association to prevent seditious publications and 
meetings ; and on 14th April, 1794, having in view the late 
successes of the French armies on the continent, and the 



484 Loyalty and patriotism. 

danger to England therefrom, the Vestry of St. John's 
joined with their neighbours of St. Margaret's in a declara- 
tory resolution that " the raising of volunteer companies 
may be essential towards preserving the public peace in 
case of sudden emergency." 

Such records as these vividly recall the sentiment 
Wordsworth has transmitted to us in his Patriotic 
Sympathies : — 

Yet do I love my country .... 
Her glory meets me with the earliest beam 
Of light, which tells that morning is awake. 
, If aught impair her beauty or destroy. 
Or but forbode destruction, I deplore 
With filial love the sad vicissitude ; 
If she hath fallen and righteous Heaven restore 
The prostrate, then my spring-time is renewed, 
And sorrow bartered for exceeding joy. 

At the celebration of the jubilee of King George III., in 
October, 1809, a house to house canvass was made which 
resulted in the collection of ^639 is. 6d., which was dis- 
tributed, mainly in provisions, at the parish churches of St. 
Margaret and St. John. No less than 644 poor families, 
consisting of 2045 persons, participated in the bounty. In 
1822, a subscription set on foot by the Vestry towards the 
fund for ameliorating the distress in Ireland, realised £\^Sy 
and in January, 1827, ;^I48 was collected " for the relief of 
the distressed manufacturers." 

The parishioners of St. John's also bore a part, though in 
a smaller degree than in 1 809, in the public celebration of 
the jubilee of her present Majesty's reign in 1887. Of the 
^3036 then raised, ^^400 was contributed by ' our parish ' ; 
not that the spirit of loyalty or the means of demonstrating 
it were less, but that the ways of appropriating the funds 
were too numerous to admit of unanimity. After defrayingthe 
cost of a memorial window in St. Margaret's church, for which 
certain of thedonations were specially reserved, the funds were 
applied to the entertainment at the Town Hall of 600 poor 
persons of not less than the Queen's age (68), to the feasting 



special-constables. 485 

of 8000 school children, each of whom was presented 
with a commemorative medal in bronze, and to the 
permanent endowment of three cots for sick children 
in Westminster Hospital, to which the children of the 
poor in the united parishes should have priority of 
admission. 

It would be an easy task to adduce from the Vestry 
minutes and the churchwardens' accounts, further instances 
of the loyal attachment of the parish to the sovereign and 
the royal family — addresses of congratulation in times of 
national rejoicing, and orders for the tolling of the bell, and 
the draping of the church with black in times of national 
sorrow ; but we must forbear. We cannot omit, however, 
to refer to the good citizenship of Westminster at times of 
threatened disturbance of the public peace. Thus, at the 
Chartist rising in 1848, the Vestries resolved unanimously 
"that having regard to the disturbed state of the metropolis, 
the Vestries are of opinion that it is necessary immediate 
arrangements should be made for appointing and swearing 
in a sufficient number of special constables for the 
preservation of the public peace, and protection of the 
property of the inhabitants of these parishes." A special 
meeting of the Vestry was held on 6th April, 1848, " to take 
prompt measures for swearing in an additional number of 
special constables," and an address was issued requesting 
all well-disposed householders to enrol themselves. This 
was so readily responded to that some 3,000 men joined 
the amateur force. After the excitement had subsided, 
Mr. Jacob Cole, an active member of the parochial boards, 
whose humorous efforts never failed to add to the enjoy- 
ment of the convivial gatherings, introduced a sketch of the 
proceedings in the form of a song. As some of the seniors 
in the parochial circle may welcome so pleasant a reminder 
of bygone times, and as some of the juniors may allow that 
the facetiae of their predecessors were not entirely devoid of 

2 ci 



486 Parochial patriotism. 

merit, the composition is, by the courtesy of Mr. Warrington 
Rogers, here reprinted : — 

When riot does disturb the land, than me there is none Sorrto, 
So to add my might unto the Peace I turn out as a warrior ; 
A lot of neighbors joined with me as " Specials " to repel any, 
In fact, we out in numbers came — " a Constable's miscellany." 
Row, Row, all in expectation of a special good Row. 

Sir Robert Peel, Tom Smith, Geo. Trout, with others of ability, 
Like " Peelers " or " blue bottles," marched to keep the town's tran- 
quility [about. 
With heavy truncheons in our fists — to break their heads or backs 
Blue bottles ? No, we were like Bees — because we dealt our wkacks 
Row, Row, &c. [about. 

James Rogers (a) made a raw recruit of ev'ry small and large gent, 
'Cause being in the Law he was well qualified for Sergeant j 
He talk'd of their expected Deeds^on their duties he enlarges. 
And, in case of any action — showed 'em how to make their cliargcs. 
Row, Row, &c. 

Churchwarden Sugg, (b) with anxious zeal, was due arrangromcnts 

making. 
And gravely did his part rehearse to meet the loutertakifigj- 
And had he puncJtcd a chartist's head, that punch had proved a 

cruncher, 
'Cause Sugg had taken lessons from a very noted Pitncher. (c) 
Row, Row, &c. 

The noble Talbot took command, and was to glory leading us, 
And as his height was 6 feet lo — he was the man for heading us. 
Then Captain Wiihall (d) took his rounds, and smoked his mild 

Havannah, 
And shared this arduous duty with his first Lieutenant Hannah. (d) 
Row, Row, &c. 

Some foreign chartists joined the mob, and mischief would have done, 

Sirs, 
But the tow'ring \oice of Wooley (e) shouted,7C'Otf/ez-TOUs, move on. Sirs. 
Friend Forty showed a discipline and vigour that would charm ye. 
For besides his corpVat strength, he'd been a Corpral in the army. 
Row, Row, &c. 

(a) Solicitor to the Vestry and Clerk to the Justices. 

(b) Mr. Sugg was an undertaker by trade. 

(c) Mr. Puncher was Mr. Sugg's co-churchwarden in 1846. 

(d) Mr. William Withal! and Mr. Joseph Hannah were the churchwardens 
of St. Margaret's in 1848. 

(e) Mr. Wm, Woolley was churchwarden of St. John's in 1847-8-9. 



Jacob Cole's facetics. 487 

Tho' some might shirk the cause that did on ev'ry gallant soul call, 
Brother Stamp (d) and all the Bakers were most punctual at the roll 

call; 
Then all went out and marched about for chartists keenly sarchingj 
The shop-keepers not only marched., but did their counter-marching. 
Row, Row, &c., 

Tho' fagged and jaded they paraded ev'ry low and high street ; 
The poulfrers were to Duck-lane sent, the Pastry-cooks to Pye-strcct ; 
The dandies went to Strutton Groii/id, which never is a bare street ; 
The fruiterers., of course, were sent to Orchard-street and Pear-street. 
Row, Row, &c. 

Now Wilson who's a loyal man, his Country's cause he bled in. 

He said he would preserve the " Crown," so some one knocked his 

head in ; 
On a shutter home they carried him, and into bed did stow him ; 
'Twas a brother Special struck him {e) in the dark, and didn't know him. 
Row, Row, &c., 

Now while on duty marching round, as riot there was none of it, 
Groves hit a quiet looker-on, a drayman., for the fun of it ; 
He warnt a big 'un either — but the mastery he got of us. 
And like another Eversfield he soon knocked down a lot of us. (f) 
Row, Row, &c. 

But a truce to jest, I would not make a serious matter laughable. 
Excuse the ditty I have sung if I've been rather chaffable ; 
Let Specials in a chorus join — when danger near is seen. Sir, 
Bring all their staves to form one song— that song, " God save the 
Queen," Sir, 
Row, Row. Tho' we always shall be ready for a jolly good row ! 

At the enrolment of special constables in connection 
with the apprehended socialist disturbances in November, 
1887, the men of ' our parish ' were amongst the foremost 
to offer their services. They as.sembled, with some 2,000 
other good citizens, at the parade ground of Wellington 
barracks, and marched thence to Trafalgar-square, where 
they supported the regular force, on Sunday, 20th No- 
vember ; and they paraded at the barracks on the two 
following Sundays in readiness for action if necessary. 

(d) Mr. Stamp was a baker by trade ; Overseer of St, John's, 1848-9 ; 
Thomas Baker was churchwarden 1828. 

(e) Founded on fact. 

(f) Mr. Thos. Eversfield was an auctioneer ; churchwarden of .St. Jnhn's in 
1847 and 1848. 

2 2 



488 Parocliial patronage. 

We now turn to that part of our subject which the word 
' patronage ' at the head of the chapter is intended to 
signify — the support given by ' our Vestry ' to candidates 
for election to Parliament. 

The remarkably keen and active interest of the Vestry 
as politicians, and the value which candidates attached to 
their support, are as conspicuously shown in the records of 
their proceedings, as in those of their fathers and their elder 
brethren of St. Margaret's. From the constitution of ' our 
Vestry ' to the first quarter of the present century, as each 
election approached, the candidates made a point of 
attending the meetings to solicit their support, as had been 
done in St. Margaret's parish since the Restoration, and 
their visit was either preceded or followed by a remittance 
of a round sum — sometimes ;^5o, sometimes iJ"ioo — to be 
disposed of as the Vestry might think fit, such sums being 
invariably carried to the parish account. And the reasons 
for so eagerly coveting and so keenly contesting the honour 
of representing Westminster in the great council of the 
nation are not far to seek. Outside the ancient metropolis, 
what city in the whole empire can compare with West- 
minster ? The Parliament has sat there almost continuously 
from the time of Simon de Montfort ; the laws of the country 
have been made there ; it has been the residence of many 
of the sovereigns ; they have been proclaimed in its famous 
hall ; they have for 800 years been crowned in its more 
famous Abbey; many of England's kings, heroes, and poets 
lie there ; it has been the last resting place of men who 
have changed the face of the world by their discoveries and 
inventions ; and in its great Council Chambers have centred 
for five and twenty generations the sublimest energies of 
the greatest of England's sons, — energies of patriots who 
have made England's ^ag the symbol of the greatest 
secular agency for good now known to mankind — that 
flag which " represents everywhere peace and civilisation 



Election excitement. 489 

and commerce, the negation of narrowness and the gospel 
of humanity." 

" Breathes there the man with soul so dead " as not to 
honour and revere such a city — a city so rich in historical 
associations ? It were impossible to imagine a nation 
whose best sons would not covet the distinction of repre- 
senting such a city in Parliament. And as the value of the 
prize nas always been great, it is not astonishing that the 
competition has been correspondingly severe. The first 
election after the constitution of the parish, when Sir 
Thomas Crosse, our first churchwarden, was a candidate, 
with Mr. Lowndes, was attended with such disorder as to 
elicit a complaint to the High Bailiff, as the returning 
officer, of the indignities to which their supporters were 
subjected " on the day appointed by that officer to take the 
view in Tothill-fields." As the complaint and the answer 
thereto give a lively representation of an election in West- 
minster a hundred and seventy years ago, they are reprinted 
almost in extenso : — 

Sir, 

It being apparent, that the Freedom of Electuig iwo Members 
to serve for the City and Liberty of Westminster, in the ensuing 
Parhament, hath been, in a high degree, and (as we apprehend) 
in an unprecedented manner, violated by the many assaults com- 
mitted against great numbers, as well as particular Persons, who 
have appeared in our Interests. 

On Tuesday last, many of the House-keepers who rode with us 
through several parts of the Liberty, were annoyed with vStones, 
Dirt, or Filth, thrown by a vile sort of People, without the least 
Provocation, whereby many were deterred from going into the 
Field to be viewed by you : And after our Entrance into the 
Field, we were soon assaulted by such Persons armed with Clubs, 
and other offensive weapons, which caused many of the said 
House-keepers to go home before you made your View ; and your- 
self knows very well, how many of our Number were bruised or 
hurt with IJrick-bats, Stones, Clubs, and otiicrwise, wherewith the 
Rioters had provided themselves. 

So that we cannot conceive an election, begun and carried on 

/ in this manner, can be considered as a Free or Due Election ; 

and that we can not give Countenance to a I'rocedure tending to 



490 Parochial patronage. 

deprive a great number of the House-keepers yet unpolled, of 
their free Voices. We take leave to send this, to let you know 
that we shall not appear any further at the place where you take the 
Poll, as Candidates, upon the Precept which you received from 
the Sheriff; but remain. 

Sir, 
23 March., 172)^2. Your most Humble Servants, 

THOMAS CROSSE. 

WILLIAM LOWNDES. 

The Case of Archibald Hutcheson and John Cotton, esquires, 
Members Return'd for the City of Westminster. In answer to the 
Petition against them by William Lowndes, esquire. 

The Purport of the Petition is as followeth, 

That on Tuesday, the 20th of March, 1721 (being the Day appointed 
by the High Bailiff to take the View in Tothill Fields) Sir Thomas 
Crosse and the Petitioner rode through several Parts of the City ; and 
that, in their passage, they, and those with 'em, were annoyed with 
Stones, Dirt, and Filth, thrown by the mob ; and that at their coming 
into Tothill Fields, they found the two Sitting Members, with their 
Company, on the Higher Ground* ; and that they were there again as- 
saulted by the Mob, in the same manner as they were in their Passage 
thro' the Streets ; By which Means, several of those who would have 
voted for Sir Thomas Crosse, and the Petitioner, were discouraged 
from going to Tothill Fields, and afterwards to the Place of Polling. 

Answer. — The Day appointed by the High Bailiff for the first 
Meeting of the Electors in Tothill Fields, was Tuesday the 20th of 
March, where the Sitting Members coming first into the Field, took 
the higher Ground (as in the Petition) according to the Old Proverb, 
First come, firsi scni'd., leaving four Times as much Ground for the 
other Candidates. 

That the Sitting Members are entu'ely Strangers to what happened 
in the Streets as the Petitioner and Sir Thomas Crosse passed thro' 
the same ; but are very sure, that as They pass'd along, they met with 
general Acclamations from the Spectators at the Windows and Doors 
in all the Streets thro' which they pass'd. And as to any Persons in 
the Field (with the Sitting Members) who had no Right to Vote, it was 
not in their Power to hinder it ; and they believe, that many such were 
likewise in the Company of the Petitioner and Sir Thomas Crosse. 

But as to the insults complained of, the same were begun first by the 
Horse-Guards, and others, that came into the Field with the Petitioner 
and Sir Thomas Crosse, who not contenting themselves with the ground 
left for them, assaulted and knocked down Forty, or more, that came 
with the Sitting Members, which might occasion some Disorder by 
Returns thereof in their own Defence. 

But this being soon over the High Bailiff peaceably opened and read 
the Precept, and riding round the Fields, declared the majority for the 

* ' The Hill ' in Tothill-fields. 



Party spirit in Westminster. 491 

Sitting Members. Whereupon a Poll was demanded, and adjourned 
to next day to New Palace Yard ; but the Persons then coming last 
out of the Fields with the Sitting Members, were again assaulted, and 
beat by Persons accompanying the other Candidates. And thus ended 
Tuesday. , . . 

Similar charges were brought forward of disorderly persons 

lying in wait to prevent those who came to vote for the 

petitioner and Sir T. Crosse, on the Wednesday, Thursday, 

Friday, Saturday and Monday. The reply is a tu quoque 

in each case. On the Wednesday " one of the Constables 

took from an officer of the Guards (who appeared for Sir 

T. Crosse and the petitioner) an iron bar, pointed like a 

cane, with which an unhappy spectator receiv'd a wound 

that struck out his eye ; however with this, the sitting 

members don't charge the other candidates." The paper 

concludes : — 

N.B. — That there never was any Contested Election for the City of 
Westminster where there were not some Riots and Disorders ; and 
it is impossible in so Populous an Election, that it can be otherwise. 
. . . Indeed, when Riots and Tumults continue throughout a Whole 
Election, so as to prevent the carrying on of the Poll, it is a just Cause 
to make such Election void ; but nothing like that is pretended in the 
present Case. 

That this was no new outburst of party spirit at such 

times, is shown by Macaulay in his sketch of the proceedings 

at the Westminster election in 1695 : — 

As it was known that a new Parliament was likely to be called, a 
meeting was held at which it was resolved that a deputation should be 
sent with an invitation to two Commissioners of the Treasury, Charles 
Montague and Sir Stephen Fox. Sir Walter Clarges stood in the 
Tory interest. On the day of nomination near five thousand electors 
paraded the streets on horseback. They were divided into three 
bands, and at the head of each band rode one of the candidates. It 
was easy to estimate at a glance the comparative strength of the 
parties. For the cavalcade which followed Clarges was the least 
numerous of the three ; and it was well known that the followers of 
Montague would vote for Fox, and the followers of Fox for Montague. 
The business of the day was interrupted by loud clamours. The 
Whigs cried shame on the Jacobite candidate, who wished to make 
the English go to mass, eat frogs, and wear wooden shoes. The Tories 
hooted the two placemen who were raising great estates outof the plunder 
of the poor overburdened nation. From words the incensed factions 



492 Parochial patronage. 

proceeded to blows ; and there was a riot which was with some diffi- 
culty quelled. The High Bailiff then walked round the three com- 
panies of horsemen, and pronounced on the view, that Montague and 
Fox were duly elected. A poll was demanded. The tories exerted 
themselves strenuously. Neither money nor ink was spared. Clarges 
disbursed two thousand pounds in a few hours, a great outlay in times 
when the average estate of a member of parliament was not estimated 
at more than eight hundred a year. In the course of the night which 
followed the nomination, broadsides filled with invectives against the 
two courtly upstarts, who had raised themselves by knavery from 
poverty and obscurity to opulence and power, were scattered all over 
the capital. The Bishop of London canvassed openly against the 
Government ; for the interference of peers in elections had not yet 
been declared by the Commons to be a breach of privilege. But all 
was vain. Clarges was at the bottom of the poll without hope of 
rising. He withdrew ; and Montague was carried on the shoulders of 
an immense multitude from the hustings in Palace Yard to his office 
at Whitehall. 

An extract from the same author's account of the election 
in 1698 is also given as illustrating the importance with 
which the representation of Westminster was regarded : — 

It must be remembered that Westminster was then by far the 
greatest city in the island, except only the remaining City of London, 
and contained more than three times as large a population as Bristol 
or Norwich, which come next in size. The right of voting in Westminster 
was in the householders paying scot and lot ; and the householders 
paying scot and lot were many thousands. It is also 1.0 be observed 
that their political education was much further advanced than that of 
the great majority of the electors of the kingdom. . . . The 
citizen of Westminster passed liis days in the vicinity of the palace, of 
the public offices, of the Houses of Parliament, of the courts of law. 
He was familiar with the faces and voices of ministers, senators, and 
iudges. In anxious times he walked in the great Hall to pick up news. 

. . At that time, therefore, the Metropolitan electors were, as a 
class, decidedly superior in intelligence and knowledge to the 
provincial electors. 

Montague and Secretary Vernon were the ministerial candidates for 
Westminster. They were opposed by Sir Henry Colt, a dull, surly, 
stubborn professor of patriotism, who tired everybody to death with his 
endless railing at standing armies and placemen. The electors were 
summoned to meet on an open space just out of the streets. The first 
Lord of the Treasury and the Secretary of State appeared at the head 
of three thousand horsemen. Colt's followers were almost all on foot. 
He was a favourite with the keepers of pot-houses, and had enlisted a 
strong body of porters and chairmen. The two parties, after exchanging 
a good deal of abuse, came to blows. The adherents of the ministers 



List of Meinbei's oj Par-liament. 493 

were victorious, put the adverse mob to the rout, and cudgelled Colt 
himself into a muddy ditch. The poll was taken in Westminster Hall. 
From the first there was no doubt of the result. But Colt tried to 
prolong the contest by bringing up a voter an hour. When it became 
clear that this artifice was employed for the purpose of causing delay, 
the returning officer took on himself the responsibility of closing the 
books, and of declaring Montague and Vernon duly elected. 

In quieter times the influence of the Vestry, which was 
very powerful, generally took a practical form in the 
calling of meetings in support of the chosen candidates 
and the enrolment of the inhabitants into committees 
pledged to support the candidates and to attend them to 
the hustings. The reader of the foregoing will scarcely 
need to be reminded that the expenditure of the candidates 
must have been very considerable ; but he would be slow 
to credit, if it were not well authenticated, that Sir Francis 
Burdett's return, at one of his earlier elections, cost him 
no less than i^8o,ooo ! But the glory has departed. 

The elector of the present generation, ' protected ' as he 
is by the Ballot Act and the Corrupt and Illegal Practices 
Act, is only accustomed to see — 

" The freeman casting, with unpurchased hand, 
The vote that shakes the turrets of the land." 

O. W. HOI.MF.S. 

The Cit}' and Liberties of Westniinster have been a 
Parliamentary Borough since 1547. A list of the repre- 
sentatives in Parliament from that date to 1847 is given in 
Walcott's Memorials. The Members returned since the 
constitution of ' our parish ' have been as follows : — 

1722. A. Hutchinson J. Cotton 

Lord Carpenter C. Mahon 

1728. Lord C. Cavendish W. Clayton 

1735-1741- Sir C. Wager* Lord Sundon * 

1747. Sir P. Warren * E. Cornwallis 

1754. E. Cornwallis * Sir J. Crosse * 

1761. E. Cornwallis* Hon. E. Sandys 

Viscount Pulteney * Lord Warkworth * 



* The Vestry accorded these candidates their support and assistance. 



494 



Members of Parliament. 



1768. Hon. E. Sandys* 

Earl Percy * 
1774. Lord T. P. Clinton * 

Viscount Petersham 
1780. Charles James Fox* 
1784. Charles James Fox* 

Lord Townsend * 
1790. Charles James Fox 
1 796- 1 802. Charles James Fox 
1806. Sir S. Hood * 

Sir F. Burdett 
1807-18 12. Sir F. Burdett 
1818. Sir F. Burdett 
1820. 
1826. 
1830. 
1831. 
1833- 
1835- 
1857. 
1841. 

1847. 
1852. 
1857. 
1859. 
1865. 
1868. 
1874. 
1877. 
1880. 
1882. 
1885. 
1885. 



^Sir F. Burdett 

Sir F. Burdett 

Col. De Lacy Evans 

J. T. Leader 

Maj. Gen. Sir De Lacy Evans (l) 



Sir P. Bernard 

Earl Percy * 
Viscount Maiden 
Sir G. B. Rodney 
Lord Hood * 

Lord Hood 
Sir A. Gardener 
R. B. Sheridan 

Lord Cochrane 
Hon. G. Lamb * 



J. C. Hobhouse 

Col. De Lacy Evans 
J. T. Leader 

Hon. Captain H. C. Rous 
Charles Lushington (l) 



Maj. Gen. Sir De Lacy Evans (l) Sir John V. Shelley, Bart, (l) 



John Stuart Mill (l) 
Hon. R. W. Grosvenor (l) 
Sir C. Russell (c) 

Sir C. Russell (c) 



1892. 



Hon. R. W. Grosvenor (l) 

William Henry Smith (c) 

William Henry Smith (c) 

Rt. Hon. William Henry Smith (c) 

Rt. Hon. William Henry Smith (c) 

Lord Algernon Percy (c) 

Rt. Hon. William Smith (c) 

The two ParisJies first constituted a Parliamentary Borough 

returning one Member. 
W. L. A. B. Burdett-Coutts (c) 
W. L. A. B. Burdett-Coutts (c) 
W. L. A. B. Burdett-Coutts (c) 



The Vestry accorded these candidates their support and assistance. 




^^ Authors of ddigJit and happiness!'' 495 



Chapter XV. 



LOCAL INSTITUTIONS, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, 
AND SCHOOLS. 



" I pray you let us satisfy our eyes 
With the memorials and the things of fame 
That do renown this city," 

Twelfth Night. 

" 'Tis the sublime of man, 
Our noontide majesty, to know ourselves 
Parts and proportions of one wondrous whole ! 
This fraternizes man, this constitutes 
Our charities and bearings." 

Coleridge. 



The United Westminster Almshouses. — The Fish Market. — The 
Western Dispensary. — The Westminster Pohce Court. — The Free 
Public Library. — The Public Baths and W^ash-houses. — St. Andrew's 
Home and Club for Working Boys. — .St. John's Club. — Wesleyan 
Training College. — (irey Coat Hospital. — Blue Coat School.— Gros- 
venor Hospital for Women and Children. — The Military Hospitals. — 
.Schools. — St. John's Infant School. — Educational Statistics. 



A /[ ANY and admirable as the educational and helpful 
institutions of modern London are, there lingers in 
the locality of those hospitals'and endowments of the past, 
concerning some of which we now furnish a few details, an 
air of .sympathetic well-doing, the intention of which cannot 
be out-rivalled in the present day. Men of tho.se times had 
perhaps neither the education nor the wealth of many men 
of these. All honour to them that they yet heard the cry 
of the children, relieved the distressed, solaced the sorrow- 
ful, strove to convey at least some of that knowledge which 
makes for purity as well as power. While we write, bells 
toll for the passing of the great poet to whom we of the.se 
latter days owe more than word.s. He has taught us to 



496 Local ifistitiitions. 

love and live for other lives than ours. He has passed ; but 
his abiding words will yet inspire many a kindly deed, many 
a generous gift, many a hope for the outcast. May after 
institutions be even nobler than these we now recount ; 
founded, maintained and extended in accordance with 
Tennyson's teaching ; — he that is " dear to man is dear to 
God." Each who is thus dear has seen " The Holy Cup of 
healing," not for his own soul's health alone. 

THE UNITED WESTMINSTER ALMSHOUSES. 

The name of Emery Hill, the " Man of Ross " of West- 
minster, flows naturally from one's pen at the very head 
and front of this theme. To him these lines of Pope are 
singularly and enduringly appropriate — 

" Not to the skies in useless columns tost 
Or in proud falls magnificently lost, 
But clear and artless, pouring through the plain, 
Health to the sick, and solace to the swain, 
Whose causeway parts the vale with shady rows ? 
Whose seats the weary traveller repose ? 

Behold the market place with poor o'erspread ! 
The ' Man of Ross ' divides the weekly bread. 
He feeds yon alms-house, neat, but void of state 
Where age and want sit smiling at the gate : 
Him portion'd maids, apprentic'd orphans, blest 
The young who lal)our, and the old who rest. 

Oh say what sums that generous hand supply ? 
What mines, to swell that boundless charity ?" 

A more prosaic quotation, if more direct, taken from 
Old and New London (Vol. IV. p. 10), reads thus : — 

"On the north side of Rochester Row is a range of neat brick-built 
cottages known as Emery Hill's Almhouses. There is a grammar 
school attached to them. They were founded in 1708 to provide a 
home for six poor men and their wives, and for six widows, and also a 
school for boys." 

Since that paragraph appeared, the almshouses have been 
rebuilt and the educational portion merged with the 



TJic ' Man of Ross ' of Westminster. 497 

United Westminster Schools. The original tablet has 
been replaced, and its legend is still readable — 

MR. EMERY HILL 

late of the Parish of 

ST. MARGARET, WESTMINSTER 

founded these Ahnshouses 

ANNO DOMINI, 1708, 
CHRISTIAN READER 

In hopes of thy Assistance. 
The record of this kind-hearted, generous giver's benefi- 
cent acts teems with good things. He founded his 
Grammar School by deeds dated in 1674, and referring 
in a schedule to the almshouses. 

The schedule provided that " the governors of the School 
should obtain a license from the Dean and Chapter of 
Westminster, for building six almshouses on the common 
in Tothill-fields for six poor old men, or six men and their 
wives, and six houses for poor old widows." Each of these 
persons must have been " honest housekeepers," and must 
own to sixty years of age. Each was to receive eight 
shillings per month, if single ; man and wife, twelve 
shillings between them. Thirteen chaldron of coal were to 
be laid in yearly ; gowns were to be supplied " not to 
exceed los. 6d. per yard," and ^10 was set aside for two 
collations annually for the governors and their wives. 

Now these collations meant, in Emery Hill's opinion, 
much more than a mere 'spread.' His will, for example, 
" directed the Governors of the Hospital of Green Coates 
in Tuttle Fields, to allow the Churchwardens . . . 20s. 
a ycarc forever, to be spent in a Collation with the Treasurer 
and ancient Vestrymen, in June." These were bidden, 
" before dinner," to see that the gifts to the parish were 
"truly entered in a book" and "applied justly and 
according to the donor's intentions." " I know," quoth the 
good man, " for want of such a yearly inspection, there is a 
great neglect of good works, and many a pound lost to the 
parish for want of looking after gifts and wills." 



498 " ^^on alvis-house neat, but void of state!^ 




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Emery H ill's bequests. 499 

' In reference to another of his charities, that which left 
several tenements to the Governors of the King's Hospital, 
besides ;^ 100 to renew a college lease and for repairs, we 
read that £1 yearly was to be spent in a collation, " I 
earnestly desire . . . that for every shilling any treasurer 
shall exceed beyond what is allowed " — the £1 to wit — 
" hee shall pay ffive shillings to the use of the poorc 
children . . . ffor as nothing keeps up Societies more 
than a friendly moderate Eating and Drinking doth, soe 
there is nothing destroies them . . more than Moderate 
Expence and Charge." Good advice this, anyway. He bade 
the Governors of that Hospital allow " Ten Shillings a 
yeare for ever to some able minister of the parish" to 
examine the Boys " in their Learnings," etc. 

Five chaldron of sea coals were to be laid in the King's 
Hospital every year. The " poore children " were to enjoy 
Roastmeate and Plum porridge every Christmas-day to put 
them in mind of that " extraordinary Good provided for 
their Soules on that Day " ; green mittens every time they 
had new Clothes were allotted to the children, while the 
Schoolmaster might "have a new gowne every Two years." 
The boys were moreover provided with " Books fitt for 
their learning, especially with Catechises and Bibles ; " the 
Bible becoming the boy's own property. 

;^iOO " for an everlasting stock of sea coals " was left for 
the only use of such Poorc that " hath neither stock nor 
storehouse." A store-house was built with ^^50, purposely 
bequeathed, on ground belonging to the Red Lion Alms- 
houses. When these were demolished, the i^ioo was 
invested, and the interest distributed in coals at a fitting 
season. The Parochial Trustees now receive the interest 
and include the charity in their Consolidated Account. 

Mr. Hill's Will not only expressed his desire for " shady 
rows," but stated that the Almshouses should have a court- 
yard " planted with good elme, and not with lime trees, for 
elmes is a better grcene and more lastingly." That Will 



500 Local institutions. 

gave ;^ioo for the erection of three other Almshouses in 
Petty France, which also were to have elms planted before 
them. Their site — they were duly built in 1677 — is now 
occupied by the Guards' Married Quarters in James-street. 
Beauty as well as utility exercised this good man's 
benevolence. He gave " ffifty pounds to make a faire and 
large causeway, at least 30 or 40 feet wide, and to plant it 
with good Elmes, not with lime trees, for they hold not 
green soe long nor soe good, and to secure them from 
Cattell." 

This causeway, unhappily, " must be placed in the 
category of lost charities " : together with ;^50 in trust for 
stock for poore tradesmen and women ; " poore Shoemaker 
or Cobler " ; some " poore Waterman to help him to a 
Boate " ; some " poore Herbwoman," or some " that makes 
Buttons or that would cry Things " ; together also with 
;^io for " poore Bedridden People"; and Ten pounds for 
" keeping upp the worke house as a Worke-house." 

The " boundless charity " of this " generous hand " must 
be our apology, if such be needed, for this lengthy notice of 
Emery Hill's benefits. His virtues are set forth on a hand- 
some white marble tablet in St. Margaret's Church. He 
fell on sleep in 1677. The following lines by Crabbe form 
the fittest finale to these remarks : — 

His sixtieth year was pass'd, and there was seen 
A building rising on the neighb'ring green : 

Twelve rooms contiguous stood, and six were near. 
There men were placed, and sober matrons here ; 
There were behind small useful gardens made, 
Benches before, and trees to give them shade. 

His was a public bountj' vast and grand, 
'Twas not in him to work with viewless hand. 

THE FISH MARKET. 
The longevity of the latter-day Londoner is due no doubt 
to the prominence given to hygienic requirements; but it is 
doubtful whether the population generally are yet sufficiently 



The fish- market. 501 

versed in the food question. Fish, for example, scarcely 
occupies the high standing which its wholesomeness and its 
abundance should give it. Ancestors of ours, not of very 
remote relationship, recognised the value of fish as food, and 
we may insert here a brief reference to a fish market, 
which, though not actually placed in St. John's parish, was 
near enough to benefit the parishioners. 

By an Act of Parliament passed in the 22nd year of King 
George II., cap. 49, it was recited "that a free and open 
market for fish in the City of Westminster would greatly 
tend to increase the number of fishermen, and improve and 
encourage the fishery of the kingdom," and it was enacted 
that from and after the 24th June, 1749, there should be a 
free and open market held in the City of Westminster for 
all sorts of fish. Twenty -six trustees were appointed by the 
Act, and invested with full powers to erect, establish, and 
maintain the market, and generally to carry the new law 
into execution. 

These trustees were invested with powers to levy tolls 
and duties payable by fishermen and others .selling fish in 
the market, and were to apply the income so derived to 
" preparing a proper place for the market " and maintaining 
the same in repair. To secure any moneys borrowed by 
them, they were authorised to assign the said duties, and to 
deliver an annual account of receipts and expenditure to 
the justices of the peace in Westminster. It was also un- 
derstood that any surplus remaining should be utilised " in 
binding out poor boys apprentices to fishermen or others 
employed in the sea-service. Fishermen who kept back 
fish at any port without .selling their whole cargo within 
eight days, were ordered to forward both ve.s.sel and cargo 
to town." The Act empowered the Commissioners of 
W'estminster-bridge to grant a piece of land near Cannon- 
row for the use of such intended market. After consider- 
able delay this land passed into the hands of the trustees, 
who borrowed ;^400 on the mortgage of the tolls and dues 

2 H 



502 Local institHtio)is. 

to " pay the charges attendnig the passing of the Act and 
to erect shops and stalls to encourage fishermen and others 
to resort there." 

An account of the receipt of subscriptions for the purpose, 
issued by the trustees in October, 1750, shows a favourable 
balance of ^900. Advances were made to fishermen for 
the building of cod and other vessels, as well as upon smelt 
nets. Interest at five per cent, per annum was payable on 
these advances, it being stipulated that, under penalties, all 
the fish should be brought to and sold at Westminster Fish 
Market, which was caught by the fishermen aboard the 
" light craft " in which the trustees had secured a financial 
interest. 

The new market had to undergo opposition. " The 
salesmen and merchants of Billingsgate, if not also the 
Corporation, viewed the market with apprehension or 
jealousy, possibly both," and the trustees were beset with 
the hindrances of monopoly and combination. 

Seeking Parliamentary protection they obtained a second 
Act. This asserted their rights, appointed an inspector, 
and authorised His Majesty's searcher at Gravesend to 
prevent designs or collusions between the masters of the 
boats arriving there, so that their journey to Westminster 
might be expedited. So far, so good ; but, unhappily, 
from thenceforth, all the efforts of the trustees " to benefit 
the public and the fish trade speedily resolved themselves 
into failure." Nor have those efforts since found imitators. 
Indebted and disheartened, the trustees relinquished their 
scheme. 

Conscientiously relieving themselves of all charges upon 
their estate, they were, in 1786, possessed of ^3,200 in the 
three per cents. Their lease produced a fair yearly 
rental. A new difficulty beset them — that of discovering 
" what method they ought in propriety to pursue in the 
attainment of that object for which the funds were originally 
created" — more especially since neither Act had pre-sup- 



The Western Dispensary. 503 

posed failure. Their annual income in 1787 amounted to 
iJ^30i, with reference to the disposal of which our historian 
is dumb, for the ' deponent sayeth not' It is worthy of 
notice that so late as February 3rd, 1802 {Gentlevians 
Magazine, Vol. LXXII., Part I., page 166) Lord Glen- 
bervie moved for leave to bring in a Bill to amend the Act 
of George II. for establishing a market for fish in the City of 
Westminster, so far as the same relates to the sale of eels. 

TH1-: WESTERN DISPEN.SARV. 

This institution owes its origin to the sympathetic action 
of one Dr. John Sims and friends, who initiated it on April 
8th, 1789, with the intention of affording advice and medicine 
to the sick poor of Westminster, and comfortable help 
for needy mothers at the birth of children. A house in 
Charles Street was taken, almost immediately ; but com- 
paratively little is known of the operations of the institution 
during its first forty years, as the first annual report did 
not appear until 1833. The Urea of operation extended 
to Chelsea-bridge, to St. James's-street, to Drury-lane and 
the Strand, over Waterloo-bridge and back to Westminster. 
It is now limited to the parishes of St. Margaret and 
St. John. 

Patients were then, as now, required to attend personally 
except in cases of extreme illness, when the sick are visited 
by a medical man if they send their letters of recom- 
mendation by authorised hands before 10 a.m. A Midwifery 
Gratuitous Branch was established in 1822, and a Provident 
Branch in 1875. In this department, midwifery patients 
pay one shilling each on registration, and a fee of 15s- 
.should a medical officer attend. \ midwife's fee is five 
shillings, and, in either case, half the fee is paid by the 
Institution. The charges for Provident Membership vary 
from 2d. to 6d. per month. These amounts are lessened 
for families, and widows' children pay but one penny per 
month, 

2 II 2 



504 Local institutions. 

The existing method of management, formulated by the 
late Canon Conway, is found to work admirably. It con- 
sists of a representative and influential committee, six of 
whose members are medical men. These also constitute 
a medical committee, comprising Sir Rutherford Alcock, 
K.C.B. (Treasurer in 1873), Drs. W. H. Allchin and Potter; 
Mr. Thomas Bond, F.R.C.S., Mr. W. Ashton Ellis, 
M.R.C.S., L.R.C.P., and Mr. F. J. Pearse, M.R.C.S. An 
anniversary dinner, recommended by the first report, is 
held on the 25th of May, the Centennial Festival which 
occurred in 1889 having been presided over by Mr. W. 
Burdett-Coutts, M.P. 

The Marie Celeste Convalescent Branch originated in 
1888, when a patient of Mr. George Fenton's handed him 
;^400, — banked "in an old handkerchief," — for charitable 
purposes in memory of his late wife, Mrs. Edward Kelly. 
The object of this branch is to provide Dispensary patients 
with the benefits of a Convalescent Home, the name of the 
branch being conferred by Mr. James Hora, who, in 1889, 
contributed ;^iooo on condition that the " Marie Celeste 
Convalescent Branch " should be always so designated. 

H.R.H. the Prince of Wales succeeded the late King of 
the Belgians as Patron of the Dispensary in 1866, and the 
Baroness Burdett-Coutts became president in 1885, in 
succession to the Duke of Buccleuch and Oueensbury, K.T. 
Founded in Charles-street in 1789, the Dispensary was re- 
moved in 185 1 to New Tothill-street ; in 1857 to York- 
street, and finally, to Rochester-row on freehold ground 
" secured through the kindness of the Ecclesiastical Com- 
missioners," the cost of the site and building, with incidental 
expenses, being about ^7,000. 

In connection with this institution is a well-organised 
system under which the sick-poor are nursed at their own 
homes by trained nurses, for whom a residence is main- 
tained at a house in Bessborough-gardens. The management 
of this branch is entrusted to a representative committee 



Tlic Westminster Police-court. 5^5 

who receive towards their funds annual grants of ^200 
from the Trustees of the Parochial Charities, and ;^iOO 
from the Governors of the Western Dispensary. A further 
reference to this valuable agency is made in Chapter XVI. 
THE WESTMINSTER POLICE COURT. 
The annals of the poor are perhaps more interesting than 
those of the Police, but, since the latter represent law and 
order, they are assuredly deserving a passing notice. 
Probably none of the public buildings in ' our parish ' is 
more widely known than that which, under the above 
heading in our daily journals, furnishes its contribution to 
the criminal chronicles of the metropolis. Established 
under the Act of 32 Geo. III. cap. 53 (1792) as " The 
Queen's Square Police Office," it may now be said to have 
reached its centenar}-. Long before its removal to it.'i 
present .site in Rochester-row (ist January, 1846) the 
court had taken a prominent place among the others in 
the metropolis, owing to the distinguished positions 
occupied by two of its presiding magistrates, Henry James 
Pye, the Poet Laureate — a descendant of Sir Robert Pye— 
and Peter Colquhoun, LL.D., whose treatise on Tlie Police 
of the Metropolis (1800), and other valuable publications on 
associated subjects, may be considered as having led up to 
to the formation of the pre.sent Police Force in 1839. 

In the early years of its existence, the sittings of the 
Court were held twice dail>^ at eleven in the morning and 
seven in the evening. The ' occurrence book ' employed 
there at the beginning of this century records frequent 
sittings without any prisoners in charge. The general 
average included about four " night charges," and com- 
prised .some half-dozen informations, now and again, 
relative to ' .seditious words,' hair-powder, armorial bear- 
ings, 'rcgrating' potatoes or turnips, selling new bread or 
new muffins, and other minor offences with which the 
Court at the present time is not apt to be concerned. 
Although the evening sittings were usuall}- occupied by a 



5o6 Local mstitutions. 

few attestations of recruits, an occasional affidavit or 
recognisance, and matters of trivial sort, yet, at seasons 
of apprehended disorder, the magistrates underwent the 
felicity of remaining all night at their posts. On such a 
night, for example (September 20, 1800), the Court was 
guarded by a sergeant and ten privates of the Westminster 
Volunteers, Captain Griffin having been " relieved at ten 
o'clock by Captain Elliot." 

The magisterial bench is surmounted by the Royal 
Arms, beautifully carved in oak. This decoration, origin- 
ally placed in the Court of Queen's Bench, was claimed (on 
the removal of that institution to the Royal Courts of 
Justice in the Strand) on behalf of the Police Court, on the 
ground that it was the oldest court of jurisdiction surviving 
in Westminster. 

THE FREE PUllLIC LIBRARY. 

This most useful establishment had attained the age of 
thirty years, when in 1887, the joyous year of Her Majesty's 
jubilee, the Commissioners issued a Report which contained 
" some account of the origin, progress and development " of 
the institution under their management. From that account 
we cull the following items. " The present premises of the 
Chief Library were formerly those of the Westminster 
Literary, Scientific, and Mechanics' Institution, which 
originated in 1840, from a desire for the formation in these 
parishes of an institution similar to that initiated in 1823, 
in Cripplegate, by Dr. George Birkbeck. The Westminster 
Institution began with a few working men, clerks, masters, 
and shopkeepers — some former members of the Birkbeck 
— having a view chiefly to the improvement of the working 
classes with which at that time Westminster was densely 
populated. It started with the co-operation of all classes, 
who contributed both money and books, in a house in 
Little Smith-street, and a lecture room in Vincent-square. 
A small library with reading and class rooms followed, to 



The I'^rcc Public Library 



507 




5o8 Local institutions. 

the pleasure and service of those for whom it was intended. 
Appreciation led to extension. The premises, found incon- 
venient, were abandoned in favour of a double house on the 
east side of Great Smith-street (novA' Nos. 23 and 25), with a 
piece of vacant ground on which was erected a large lecture 
theatre with class rooms beneath. 

An article in The Mirror oi Xwgw-X 22nd, 1840, supplies 
further details, describing the institution as " one of those 
valuable associations for the cultivation of the mind, which 
have within these few years opened up an entirely new 
channel for the rational occupation of the brief moments of 
leisure allotted to the middle and labouring classes, and for 
the development of their noblest faculties. The committee 
at that time had been enabled to form a library of upwards 
of 3000 volumes, comprising a selection of the best works 
in history, ethics, general literature and science, and reading 
and news-rooms supplied with newspapers and periodicals 
had been open daily from 10 till 10." 

The building, which was designed and superintended 
gratuitously by Mr. William R. Gritten, a local architect, 
had its foundation stone laid on 31st July, 1840, amid 
enthusiasm, by the Rev. Henry Hart Milman, the then 
Rector of St. Margaret's. In his speech at that function 
Canon Milman struck the key-note of the raison d'etre of 
the institution when he said—" To advance the intellectual 
is one very great subsidiary towards promoting the moral 
elevation of human beings," and looking once again at the 
Commissioners' Report we read, "At this period an Act of 
Parliament was passed, intituled 'An Act for further pro- 
' moting the establishment of Free Public Libraries and 
' Museums, and for extending them to Towns and Parishes 
'under the Local Improvement Act, 30th July, 1855.' This 
Act originated with Mr. William Ewart, M.P. for Dumfries 
Burghs, and was adopted by the Parishes of St. Margaret 
and St. John on the 19th of May, 1856." 



'' Rcadhig viakcth the full jiian!'^ 5^9 

This quotation reminds us of another — " The old order 
changeth, giving place to new." I^rosperous as the Literary, 
Scientific and Mechanics' Institution appears to have been, 
it was found necessary to close its doors in consequence of 
a diminution of voluntary services and of the number of 
members, followed by financial embarrassment. 

That Westminster, with its wonted habit of progression 
should adopt the new Libraries Act, was not surj^rising ; 
that adoption was a suitable .sequel to the effort described 
above. 

We endorse a remark made in Notes and Queries, 
March 14, 1857: "Dear old Westmin.ster, by which we 
mean Westminster proper, the united parishes of St. 
Margaret's and St. John's, where Caxton set up the first 
printing press erected in England, has signalised itself by 
being the first of the Metropolitan districts to establish a 
Free Library." 

At a public meeting of the ratepayers of the parishes of 
St. Margaret and St. John, held on Monday. May 19, 1856, 
at the Westminster Mechanics' Institution, Sir Wm. Page 
WVjod, Kt., occupied the chair, and was supported by the 
Rev. John Jennings, M.A., Charles Hindley, Esq., M.P., 
Wm. Whatele)% Esq., O.C., Joseph Carter Wood, Esq., 
John Lettsom Elliott, Ivsq., H. J. Maude, Esq., and 
Eredk. Thynne, E.sq. There were present seventy-eight 
others. A resolution to the effect " That the Public 
Libraries Act, 1855, ought to be adopted for these parishes," 
was carried by 81 votes to 3. This having been reported 
to the United Vestry, that body appointed nine com- 
missioners for carrying the Public Libraries Act, 1855, into 
execution, viz.: Septimus Holmes Godson, Esq., Mr. James 
Bigg, Rev. John Jennings. Sir Wm. Page Wood, Mr. James 
Foster Shedlock, Mr. John Hunt, Mr. Samuel Hughes, 
Mr. John Norris, and Mr. David Mallock. On Jul}- 5, 1856, 
the Vestr}' considered and approved the first estimate of the 
expenses of carrying the Act into execution in tlie united 



§10 Local institutions. 

parishes for the ensuing year, amounting to ;^i,ooo. The 
records of the Mechanics' Institute form a basis for the 
history of the Free Pubhc Library ; the utiHty and success 
of the latter has amply fulfilled the expectations of its 
projectors. 

The library rate is limited to one penny in the pound ; 
but the Commissioners point to the fact that this Library 
" has not in any year exceeded one half-penny." Yet they 
have purchased the lease of the premises, furniture, and 
books of the Mechanics' Institution, and express their desire 
to " meet in a reasonable manner, any suggestions as to 
books or the utility and popularity of the library." They 
also endeavour to obtain books not within general reach, 
while they are gradually forming at the Chief Library, a 
valuable collection of books for reference only. 

During the last four years the development of the scheme 
for the New Church House has necessitated further 
structural changes, advantageous to the parishioners, for an 
account of which we may refer our readers to our story 
of the Baths and Wash-houses. 

THE BATHS AND WASH-HOUSES. 

" The head patentee 

Of associate cleaners — chief founder and prime 

Of the firm for the wholesome distilling of grime — 

Co-partners and dealers in linen's propriety — 

That make washing public — and wash in society — 

O lend me your ear." 

Hood. 

Personal cleanliness and intellectual progress should of a 
surety travel together. There is, moreover, an inseparable 
connection linking the Free Library with the Baths and 
Wash-houses since the Vestry minutes contain the accom- 
panying note : — " Acting under the authority conferred 
upon them by the Vestry on 24th October last (1888) the 
Committee have conferred with the Commissioners of the 
Free Public Library and the Commissioners of the Public 
Baths and Wash-houses, sitting together, upon the question 



" For shame, let the linen alone / " 5 1 1 

of improving the existing establishments, or erecting new 
buildings." But perhaps the courteous reader will ' hark 
back ' with us for a space. 

As early as November 4, 1846, a letter from Mr. Cotton, 
Chairman of the Committee for Promoting the Establish- 
ment of Baths and Wash-hou.ses, was read at a Vestry 
meeting, but the adoption of active measures in support of 
that Committee was suspended owing to an informality in 
convening the meeting. That the authorities meant busi- 
ness is shown by the minutes of January 8, 1847, when the 
Vestry " met for the special purj^ose of determining 
whether the Act to encourage the establishment of Public 
Baths and Wash-houses shall be adopted. The question 
was carried in the affirmative by 20 votes to 6." 

The matter was not, however, put into going order until 
24th February, 1849, on which date the Vestry appointed 
seven ratepayers to carry the Act into execution without 
further delay. The seven gentlemen selected were the Hon. 
J. Chetwynd Talbot, the Rev. John Jennings. M.A., Messrs. 
George Wilson, C. W. Short, James Plunt, William 
Burridge, and William Hawes. Without troubling our 
readers with preliminary and financial details, we will 
advance at (^ne stride to March 6th, 1 851, on which date 
the Commissioners reported the purchase of freehold ground 
and premi.ses in St. xAnn's-street (^2,609) ; freehold house 
and premises in Great Smith-street (;^I98) ; and leasehold 
interest therein previous!}- [nircha.sed (;^5oo). The total 
cost of the site thus amounted to ^3,307. 

I'o return to the date which we first mentioned — 24th 
October, 1888; we find then that the commissioners of the 
Public Library and the Commissioners of the I'liblic liaths 
and Wash-houses had agreed to recommend the ad\isability 
of erecting a new Library and ISaths and \V' ash-houses on 
adjoining sites in consistency with plans [prepared by Mr. 
y. J. Smith, F.R.I.llA., and approved of b\- the two Com- 
missions. 



512 Local institutions. 

The removal of the Library had become imperative by 
the requirements of the Church House Committee, who had 
given notice of their desire to terminate its present short 
lease and occupy the premises. After an active enquiry 
for available sites, that adjacent to the Public Baths 
and Wash-houses, was selected as the most appropriate. 

The area thus acquired for the purposes of the Library is 
5,090 square feet, and, in addition, 600 square feet which it 
is proposed to throw into the roadway, and thus initiate a 
public improvement which has been long sadly needed, in 
consequence of the narrowness and dangerous bend in the 
roadway. The Public Baths, which have erroneously been 
credited with having been the first erected under the act of 
1847, had become dilapidated and altogether unfit for the 
present requirements of the inhabitants. These are now 
being entirely re-modelled and supplied with the most 
approved appliances. The additional area is 3,310 feet, 
permitting of a first-class swimming bath 132 feet long and 
31 feet wide, and a second-class one 62 feet long and 32 feet 
wide, each provided with dressing boxes and other accom- 
modation. Slipper baths for women and for men, both 
first and second-class are also arranged, and in fact 
everything that could increase the utility and comfort of the 
establishment. The Laundry department has accommo- 
dation for 92 washers, with a drying-closet for each. 

The two buildings, though conjoined, are perfectly 
distinct, there being no communication between them 
Board-room accommodation, together with apartments for 
librarian, superintendent and caretaker, is provided. The 
outlay sanctioned by the Vestry for the new Public Library 
and Public Baths and Wash-houses is ^32,000, apportioned 
"to the extent of ;^i 2,000 as regards the Library, and 
i^20,000 as regards the l^aths and Wash-houses." 

Although Westminster was the first parish to erect 
baths, etc., after the passing of the Act, it did not actually 
take the lead, since The Times for January 3rd, 185 1, con- 



"^ good deed hi a naughty world'' 513 

tains the returns for Whitechapel, St. Martin-in-the-Fields, 
and St. Mar}'Iebone. It is also interesting, as compared 
with present historic statistics, to note that in returns pub- 
Hshed in July, 185 1, for eighteen months, in respect of the 
above-named baths, the figures for St. Margaret's and St. 
John's are given as {or seven iveeks, during which period the 
receipts had been £\o for washing, and ;^30i 6s. id. for 
bathing. The number of persons using the laundry was 
916 ; the number of bathers, in the seven weeks of that 
summer, having been 2,879. 

ST. ANDREW'S HOME AND CLUB FOR WORKING I'.OVS. 

Homeless but for the shelter of a shed ; bedless but for 
a sack ; friendless but for a little dog with a big, faithful 
heart, — such was the first inmate of St. Andrew's Home. 
Some student architects working as a lay brotherhood 
among the poor, caught sight of this waif. Their com- 
passion led to the opening of this Home (1866) in Market- 
street, Soho, being aided and abetted in their labour of love 
by the Confraternity of St. Edward the Confessor and the 
Rev. J. C. Chambers, Vicar of St. Mary's, Crown-street, 
Soho. Many applicants pleaded for admission, and in 

1868, the management was undertaken by a Committee 
with Earl Beauchamp as president, and a resident superin- 
tendent and housekeeper placed in charge. At Christmas, 

1869, 23 boys were "at home" in St. Andrew's. Two 
years later, a public meeting held at the House of Charity, 
in Soho, resulted in removal to more suitable premises, at 
71, Dean-street, Soho, where 40 beds were available. The 
renewal of the lease, here, proving impracticable, the 
committee started a Building Fund in 1 881, to aid which 
the hon. secretary wrote a short account of the Home ; a 
history to which we are now indebted. Success crowned 
these efforts. Mrs. Nathaniel Montefiore offered a vacant 
site in Great Peter-street, the Dean of Westminster collected 
/ 5,072 2s. 6d., other donations — some by the boys them- 



514 Local institutions. 

selves — were collected, and on the 5th of July, 1884, 
the Earl of Selborne, the present president (then Lord 
Chancellor) laid the foundation stone of St. Andrew's 
Home where it now stands. The Dean of Westminster 
proclaimed it "opened free of debt," on July i, 1885, the 
total cost having been £6,g6o 15s. id. 

The first intention of this institution is to " provide board 
and lodging for homeless work-lads, of good character, 
between 12 and 18, who are engaged in shops, ware- 
houses, &c., and earn on an average a little over 5s. a 
week." For these it is indeed a " home." Provided 
for, protected from temptation, instructed in education 
and religion, one may see, at the annual gathering of 
new boys and old on St. Andrew's day, every sign of 
successful working. The Home also provides an even- 
ing club for boys living near, at an entrance fee of is., 
and a weekly fee of 2d. Club members may attend classes 
and use the library, reading, recreation rooms, and gymna- 
sium, &c. " Home " boys must be orphans, or far away 
from parents ; they must contribute, according to their 
earnings, to mutual support ; a savings bank makes pro- 
vision for their clothing; but supplementary subscriptions are 
naturally found necessary. Outdoor and indoor recreations 
are arranged, and technical classes supplement ' book learn- 
ing.' Nothing is omitted which can benefit the lads either 
socially or morally. The Club numbers 100 boys, and 
the fact that " Old Boys" are making their way in all 
departments of life, and are given to visit the ' old home,' 
is a proof that St. Andrew's Home and Club is a happy 
and most .serviceable institution. 

ST. JOHN'S CLUB. 

The genesis of a club is never devoid of interest. Among 
the parochial institutions which have long since disappeared 
was one to whose existence, in connection with St. John's Club, 
reference is essential. That institution, styled the 'Walking 



St. /o/iu's Club. 5 1 5 

Brief,' consisted of small parties of prominent parishioners 
who undertook to assist the churchwardens in the discharge 
of duties laid upon them by the "briefs," or licenses, for col- 
lecting funds from house to house, whether for the repair of 
churches or making good damage occasioned by fire. Thus 
we find the inhabitants ,at one time bidden by these 
' briefs ' to participate, by contributions, in the re-construc- 
tion of the church-tower of a remote village in Gloucester- 
shire, and, on another occasion, to afford financial aid to 
sufferers by fire at Bideford, in Devonshire. These 
' briefs ' were not infrequently based upon petitions for- 
warded from hamlets and towns in other equally distant 
counties. It will be readily understood that this quaint 
system lent itself to abuses. These were dealt with and 
suppre.s.sed by the Act of 4 Anns, cap. 14 (1706), which 
imposed a penalty of ^^500 should the briefs be ' farmed ' 
or purchased, and also rendered the churchwardens liable 
to punishment for neglect in the performance of their 
duties. Happily no record of either conviction or penalty 
has come before us. 

It is, at all events, pleasing to learn that the ' briefs ' 
wrought good work now and again, and that in cases of 
exceptional merit, as much as ^200 were collected, though, 
in some instances, the subscriptions received scarcely 
covered the cost incurred in obtaining them. These ex- 
penses were generally charged to the parish account, and 
really represented the bill for the ' little dinner ' which 
usually terminated the labour of four or five days, the 
number of labourers increasing towards the end of the 
work. The ' old order ' changed, so far as the briefs were 
concerned, and their method of fund-finding became un- 
necessary, but the inherent inclination to social enjoyment 
around a well-spread board did not, as did the briefs, fall 
into disuetude. 

The 'worshipful of the parish' having discontinued the 
former fashion of 'collecting,' they adopted a plan of meeting 



5i6 Local institutions. 

together, socially, twice or thrice a year, the plan resulting 

after many meetings, in the institution of St. John's Club 

(July, 1840). Membership originally restricted itself to the 

forty-four gentlemen who at- that period constituted the 

Vestry, but, for a long time past, non-vestrymen have been 

permitted to participate in the pleasurable meetings which, 

in January, May, and October, are held at the Grosvenor 

Hotel. The construction of Westminster-bridge, and the 

arrangement of its approaches caused the demolition of the 

trysting-place of earlier days. 

The members of the Club, thus duly constituted, defray, 

by subscription, the expenses of these unpretentious yet 

convivial gatherings. Archdeacon Jennings, himself the 

oldest member of the Club and associated with it for upwards 

of forty-years, has been succeeded by Dr. John Hunt, " as 

Father of the Club." The secretaryship, during nearly 

twenty years, has been filled by Mr. James Margrie, 

successor to the late Mr. Ridley. 

"Yet there's a good that flows from scenes hke these — 
Man meets with man at leisure and at ease ; 
We to our neighbours and our equals come, 
And rub off pride that man contracts at home. 

There you may call in aid the moderate glass. 
But let it slowly and unprompted pass ; 
So shall there all things for the end unite, 
And give that hour of rational delight." 

Crabbe. 
THE WESLEVAN TRAINING COLLEGE. 

" Alma Mater " — the very words, the tone that runs 
through the expression of them while the speaker reflects 
upon all they mean to him, possess a real and .sympathetic 
significance. No wonder that, under the head line " Alma 
Mater," and under a print of the Westminster Training 
College, the editor of The Westniinisterian (Vol. I., No. i) 
should write, " Amongst the different institutions for the 
training of elementary school teachers in this country, 
Westminster occupies a position in the front rank , , . 



The Wesleyan Training Institution. 5 1 7 

it is one of the largest of Metropolitan Training Colleges, 
and provides ample accommodation for the 120 students 
who annually take up their residence here. In regard to 
its educational work also, Westminster compares favourably 
with other colleges, while for imparting a sound and 
efficient knowledge of the theory and practice of education, 
it stands second to none." The same editor also considers 
that " for rapid and all-round ifnprovement during the two 
years' training, Westminster stands pre-eminent." Thus 
the college commands respect as well as affection. 
For these notes concerning the establishment and working 
of this college, we are indebted to The Ecclesiastical 
Principles and Polity of the Wesleyan Alethodists, by William 
Pearce (1868), and the 13th Annual Report of the 
Wesleyan Committee of Education (1852), which ably 
and fully record the progress of Wesleyan education. 
These works inform us that the VV'esleyan Normal 
Institution in the Horseferr}'-road originated with a 
resolution of the Wesleyan Education Committee in 1843, 
whereby the president was authorised to nominate a select 
committee of ministers and gentlemen of the connexion, to 
bring the whole subject of education under full and careful 
consideration. The select committee met in November. 
1843, and passed a series of resolutions calling upon the 
Wesleyan community to proceed immediately to a fuller 
and more practical recognition of its responsibility in the 
matter, and to adopt early and vigorous measures for the 
establishment and maintenance of Wesleyan juvenile and 
infant week-day schools. A " Wesleyan education general 
fund " was established in order to raise a sum (;i^200,000) 
to cover the contemplated expenditure during the then 
ensuing seven yeans. 

A resolution directly authorising the appropriation of 
funds for the establishment of a Wesleyan Training 
Institution in London, was pa.ssed in the autumn of 1846, 
and earl)' in 1847, the Committee was enabled to report the 

2 I 



5i8 / Local Institutions. 

acquisition of " a very eligible site in Westminster for a 
Wesleyan Normal Institute." In 1851 the schools were 
partially opened, but 1852 saw their completion, and also 
witnessed, in that completion, an " auspicious commence- 
ment in the training of students." The interest in the 
movement of ' generous-hearted friends,' could hardly be 
more decidedly proved than b>- the fact that within two 
years (1854) the entire e.xpenditure had been defrayed ' by 
free-will offerings.' 

The enterprise entirely exceeding the expectations of its 
promoters, an enlargement was found necessary and effected 
(1858-9). The erection of a chapel in the vicinity of the 
schools formed a very natural desire which gained expression 
as early as 1856. In 1863 that desire grew too strong to be 
further withstood, and in 1 2>6'/ a convenient site was decided 
upon and obtained. The Committee had in view the 
provision and training of masters and mistresses, the 
provision also of books, apparatus, and furniture, an 
" efficient place of inspection," as also a systematic corre- 
spondence of other Wesleyan schools. The Westminster 
Training College of 1892 for masters is, ver}- naturally, far 
in advance of the original establishment, since it has kept 
pace with the advancing requirements of the present 
day. 

We cannot leave this important educational centre without 
mentioning some of the men of worth connected formerly, 
and now, with the institution, or without a passing reference 
to a few of its collateral efforts. Of these we may select 
athletics, football, cricket, and a helpful mission band. Of 
the former, the present principal, the Rev. James H. Rigg, 
D.D., deserves right honourable mention; nor should the 
earliest principal, the Rev. John Scott, be forgotten. Not 
the least popular among vice-principals is Mr. Charles 
Mansford, who, joining the Training College in 1852 as a 
student, has graduated successively and successfully from 
the mathematical tutorship to his present position, 



" The Royal Foundation of Queen Anne." 5 19 

THE f;REV COAT HOSPITAL. 
A paper of extreme interest appeared in the Jouy)ial of 
Education for September ist, 1885, headed " An Old West- 
minster Endowment." To this evident labour of love on 
the part of Miss Da)-, the head-mistress of the Grey Coat 
Hospital — the endowment referred to — we are permitted 
to allude. Another source of information, Old and New 
London (Vol. IV., p. n) supplies the following data — " At the 
east end of Rochester-row is the Gre}' Coat Hospital, so 
named from the colour of the clothing worn b}' its inmates. 
It was founded in 1698 for the education of 70 poor boy.s 
and 40 poor girls. It presents a considerable frontage to- 
wards Gre)' Coat-place from which it is separated by a 
large court }'ard. It is composed of a central building 
ornamented with a clock, turret and bell, above the royal 
arms of Queen Anne, with the motto ' Semper Eadem ' 
flanked by a figure on either side, dressed in the former 
costume of the children. The south side, uhich looks out 
upon an open garden and spacious detached pla\-grounds 
(the whole surrounded b}- an extensive wall) contains the 
school-room.s. Above is a wainscoted dining-hall, u.sed also 
for the private prayers of the inmates. The dormitories 
occupy the whole attic storey. In the board room — a noble, 
.panelled apartment — are portraits of the ro}'al foundress, 
Queen Anne ; Dr. Compton, Bishop of London ; Dr. 
Smalridge, Bishop of Bristol ; and those of the former 
governors." Miss Day's faithful description is as com- 
plete, but far more charming. " Within five minutes' walk 
of the Abbey, in a large garden and pla\-ground, stands an 
Elizabethan house, known as ' The Ro\'al Eoundation of 
Queen Anne, of the Grey Coat Hospital, in Tothill Eields, 
Westminster.' An old red house, covered at the back with 
grape vines and Virginia creeper ; a garden bright in sum- 
mer with old-fashioned flowers ; a broad oak staircase, a 
quaint hall, and still quainter board-room, furnished as it 
was in 1702, take visitors greatly b\- surprise. The)- admire 

2 12 



520 Local Institutions. 

the sobriety of its precincts, and imagine themselves far 
from London. The stiUness, however, is not unbroken, for 
more than 300 girls work and play there every day." The 
intention of the charity school originally erected here was 
" for the education of poor children in the principles of the 
Christian religion, teaching to read, and instructing them 
in the Church Catechism and discipline of the Church of 
England as by law established, and for teaching to read 
and cast accounts, and (when fit) binding them apprentices 
to honest trades and employments." The present school- 
house was first occupied in 1706, when Queen Anne, under 
letters patent, constituted the trustees " a body politick and 
corporate, of her royal foundation." 

The 6^ boys maintained here wore a long grey skirt and 
leather girdle ; the 33 girls, a dress of grey, open in front 
and corded. By Queen .A.nne's patent the governors were 
permitted to purchase lands to the yearly value of ^2,000, 
and to grant leases for terms of 41 years. An enquiry 
made by John Dawson, Esq., commissioner in 181 8, showed 
that the estates consisted of freehold and leasehold property 
at Westminster and Caldecott Hall Farm, in Suffolk, held 
of Magdalen College, Oxford. In 181 5, a fine of ^^1,097 8s. 
was paid in respect of the latter leasehold, which has now 
expired, the property having reverted to Magdalen College. 
In 1739, a mathematical school was added, and a master to 
teach navigation appointed, some of his scholars being 
bound to the sea service. Children were appointed in 
rotation by the governors, the nomination of ten scholars 
being reserved for the Dean and Chapter. 

There used to be an examination every Sunday evening, 
open to the public, and much frequented. Hatton's New 
View of London (1708) calls attention to the many con- 
tributors to ' this pious undertaking.' 

We now invite our readers to turn to Miss Day's care- 
fully-compiled chronicle for an account of the actual origin 
of the Hospital. " Although now a Second Grade school, 



T)ie Grey Coat Hospital. 52 1 

the origin . . . was humble." Comparing the advan- 
tages and disadvantages of the " Boarding-out System," the 
Head -Mistress tells us that, in 1698, Westminster citizens 
were more impressed with the latter. " The parish authori- 
ties boarded the destitute children of the city with unedu- 
cated and often disreputable women " styled nurses. The 
children had no day-schools, and eighteenpence a week not 
satisfying these ' nurses,' they " trained the children to be 
professional beggars." 

The miseries of these children were considered .seriously 
by several of the inhabitants of the parish of St. Margaret, 
who convened a meeting, at which this institution was 
initiated. Thus the Hospital is the outcome of the good- 
heartedness of the parishioners themselves. Forty of the 
greatest objects of charity the)' could find were to be 
educated and apprenticed as we have already read. Mr. 
Thomas Ashenden, himself a benefactor to the Hospital, 
was the first master, at a salary of £26 per year. A house 
in the Broad Sanctuary was taken, and an annual sermon and 
offertory promised by Dr, Onley, the then rector of St. 
Margaret's. " A uniform," says Miss Da}-, " was provided 
for the boys, which remained unaltered till 1874. It closely 
resembled that of Christ's Hospital, grey taking the place 
of blue and yellow. The boys had small caps, which were 
somewhat of a cross between a priest's biretta and a modern 
Tam o' Shanter." Miss Day also describes the curriculum, 
and gives a list of the books, which seem to have consisted 
of nineteen in all. 

Cleanliness, morality and religion were the basis of 
instruction. The school opened on January 9th, 1698. 
The Trustees met every Tucsda)' evening ; each was fined 
2d. for non-attendance ; each undertook to examine five 
boys from time to time. The fines were paid, but the 
boys were not always examined. 

" When the Endowed Schools Commission began its 
rc-organi/.ing work in this district, one of its earliest 



522 Local Institutions. 

decisions was to separate entirely the schools for boys and 
girls. Emanuel Hospital, the Green Coat, the Black Coat, 
and the Emery Hill Schools were assigned to the boys ; 
the Grey Coat entirely to the girls. All the accidents of 
school life and management are changed. Grey Coats in 
name only, the girls now dress as they like. We can 
imagine how perplexed the first Grey Coat Governors 
would be if they heard the present Board's discussions as to 
curriculum. University Local examinations, qualifications 
for mistresses, and perhaps, most of all, salaries. But, with 
all these changes in things non-essential, in heart and aim 
the Board and Staff at this present time are one with their 
fore-runners. Still, the Endowed School Scheme bids them 
educate their girls in the doctrine and discipline of the 
Church of England, and it is their joy to try to do so." 

Few institutions are so fortunate in the possession of an 
interesting history charmingly written ; and it is with 
reluctance we leave it. 

THE BLUE COAT SCHOOL. 

One would much like know the why and wherefore of 
The Grand KJiaibar Charity. Its title is almost as fascina- 
ting as its intention, but research relative to its initiation is 
without avail. Its antiquity is great. Its purpose was 
" the education of twenty children, generally considered to 
be of rather a superior class to the ' Blew boys,' " mention 
of whom brings us to consider the Blue Coat School, which 
was founded about a quarter of a century after the restora- 
tion, by voluntary subscription, for boys only. It is in 
fact claimed to be the first metropolitan school so 
founded. It is supposed that Dr. Thomas Jekyll, of 
Broadway Chapel (died 1698), gave this school a local 
habitation and a name. He, at all events, claimed the 
honour of its institution, and wrote an exposition of the 
Church Catechism for its use. History has it that the 
school was founded in Duck-lane, and assigns 1688 as the 
period. In the year 1709 Mr. Wm. Greene, of the Stag 



Tlie Blue Coat School. 523 

Ikewery, Pimlico, built a school on ground leased from the 
Dean and Chapter. One may see the building in Caxton- 
street to-day. A master's house was erected in the 
same year by means of the parishioners' contributions. 
When, in 1727, Mr. Greene '' assigned the lea.se to trustees 
to suffer the school " he defined its aim as being for 
" educating and instructing poor children in the principles 
of the Established Church." Its income from funded 
property amounted, according to the first report of the Com- 
missioners on the Education of the Poor, to ;^ 199. This 
property consisted of ^,'4,500 in old South Sea Annuities^ 
and ^600 in four per cent, stock, bequeathed by Mr. 
Buckeridge Ball Ackworth. The gross income was esti- 
mated at about ;^400. An extension of its benefits was 
made in March, 17 13- 14, when the governors of the charity 
included twenty girls in its beneficent purpose. 

Instruction in the catechism was supplemented by the 
introduction of psalmody, and the girls found themselves 
encouraged to acquire the helpful mysteries of " knitting, 
needlework, and housework." The Blue Coat Scho A 
indicates a costume of that colour for the scholars, and in 
a recess o\er the entrance of the present school-hou.se ma}- 
still be descried the figure of a boy in the school dress of 
the period, which is very readily ascertained by reference 
to a stone tablet let in the wall, and bearing the words 
" This is the Blew Coat School, 1 709." Sir Christopher Wren 
has the credit of designing and supervising the erection of 
the edifice, which was planned to accommodate 195 boys. 

Mr. James A. Sarsons, who for 40 years has occupied the 
position of resident master, has, at the time of writing, only 
sixty boys under his charge. Twenty of the.se are clothed 
out of the funds. The Grand Khaibar Charity ceased in 
1847, ^vhen its little balance in hand was transferred to the 
general account ; and the present income of the Blue Coat 
school, from subscriptions and other sources, is valued at 
Ca^^o. The numerical decadence of the .school is attributed 



524 Local Institutions. 

to the fact that not being in receipt of a government grant, 
and therefore less able to compete with those schools which 
have adopted ' free education ' under the recent Act, the 
school is gradually being forsaken by all but the ' clothed 
boys.' The powers of the Charity Commissioners to deal 
with this school are doubtful, since it is not possessed of any 
" endowment " strictly so-called. Rumours are current, 
however, at the time of writing, relative to the disposal of the 
site to another body of school managers. It is well there- 
fore to place the facts on record that the Blue Coat School 
was not only originally founded in St. John's parish, and 
was conducted in that parish during the first twenty years 
of its existence, but also that its benefits are still enjoyed 
by the parishioners. 

Proof of its parochial character may be found in the 
annals of the church itself, seeing that a century ago seats 
were specially appropriated there for the use of the " boys 
in Blew." 

THE GROSVENOR HOSPITAL FOR WOMEN AND 
CHILDREN. 

Established originally as a Dispensary in 1865 this insti- 
tution then occupied but one room in the neighbourhood, and 
was known as the Vincent-square Hospital, its management 
being conducted by a few gentlemen under the presidency 
of the late Right Hon. (then Mr.) G. A. Hamilton. The 
urgent necessity of beds for the benefit of the worst cases 
immediately made itself felt. This want, becoming known, 
soon also became remedied ; friends supplied funds sufficient 
to furnish and permit the occupancy of a corner house, No. 
29, in Vincent-square; thus supplying six beds (1870) for 
the reception of in-patients. The adjoining house was ap- 
propriated five years afterwards, and, communication 
being opened from house to house, six other beds were 
added. In 1890 the next House was also occupied, by 
which means six further beds were made available, besides 



Hospitals. 525 

other accommodation very greatly needed, chiefly in con- 
nection with the out-patient department. Children suffer- 
ing from any description of disease which is not infectious 
or contagious, are treated as out-patients, while the hospital 
administers to women enduring diseases peculiar to the 
sex, as both in-patients and out-patients, the latter of whom 
are seen daily. The present secretary is the Hon. F. C. 
Howard, whose courtesy has assisted us to provide these 
notes. He informs us that, in 1884, this institution, under 
the style of the Grosvenor Hospital for Women and 
Children, underwent entire re-constitution. For some 
years the late Earl of Shaftesbury occupied the position of 
president, which was afterwards ably filled by the late Right 
Hon. W. H. Smith, M.P., at whose death Viscount Cross, 
K.C.B., undertook the kindly duty. On the resignation of 
Sydney, Duchess of Manchester, as lady-president, that post 
was accepted by one with whose name that of Westminster 
must always be associated, the Baroness Burdctt-Coutts. 

" Some there are 
By their good works exalted, lofty minds 
And meditative, authors of delight 
And happiness, which to the end of time 
Will li\e, and spread, and kindle." 

\\'iiuiis\V(it;th. 

TIIK MILITAin' IIOSI'ITALS. 
If the nomenclator should ever conceive evil designs 
concerning Rochester-row, he might appropriately substitute 
" Institution-row" for its present name. Going from east to 
west we first pass the Grey Coat Hospital, then the Western 
Dispensary and the United Westminster Almshou.ses, facing 
the numerous institutions connected with St. Stephen's 
Church, then the Police Court, nearly adjoining which is the 
hospital of the Coldstream (juards, and almost opposite, a 
similar establishment for the Grenadier Guards, while the 
hospital for the Scots Fusiliers Guards is but a few paces 
distant in the Vauxhall-bridge-roafl. Like the Grey Coat 
Hospital and the Almshouses, these three militar)- hospitals 
were founded when there was a broad expanse of open 



526 Local Institutions. 

country on nearly all sides. They were originally established 
by the officers of the respective regiments, for the treatment 
of the sick among the men under their command, and they 
were maintained by the officers and the regimental ' stock- 
purse ' until eleven years ago. In 1881 they were transferred 
to the Army Medical Department, by which the respective 
regiments became relieved of the responsibilities of 
management. 

The officers of the Grenadiers were in possession of a 
house held on lease from the Dean and Chapter of West- 
minster, and adapted to the purposes of a hospital, in 1801. 
This house was demolished in 1859, shortly after which the 
present building at the corner of Buckingham-cottages and 
backing on to Cobourg-row, was erected. In 1867 the 
freehold was purchased by the field officers and captains. 
The hospital, which has accommodation for nearly a 
hundred patients, is known as the No. i Station Hospital. 

The establishment for the medical treatment of the sick 
men of the Coldstream Guards, facing Vincent-square, and 
backing on to Rochester-row, at the corner of Walcott- 
street, contains 53 beds, and was first established in 18 14. A 
lease for seven years was then granted by Mr. Mann to Col. 
the Hon. Henry Brand. This lease was renewed in 1823 
for 21 years, the lessees being Col. Sir Alexander Woodford, 
Col. Sir Henry Bouverie, and Col. Macdonell. A further 
renewal was obtained in 1844 for 14 years. In 1855 an 
addition was made to the premises on the south-east side. 
In 1858 a lease of the two blocks of building was taken for 
40 years by Colonels the Hon. George Upton, Lord 
Frederick Paulet and William Newton, when nearly ^4000 
were expended upon the re-building of the greater part of 
the hospital. Since the transfer to the War Department 
the institution has been designated the 'B Station Hospital' 

The sick men of the Scots Fusiliers are provided for in 
the building in the Vauxhall-bridge-road, opposite Edward- 
street, and abutting in the rear on Lillington-street. Beds 
are available for 83 patients. 



Coats of vai'ious colours. 527 

SCHOOLS. 

The National School, as an institution, not having come 
into existence for more than a century after the formation 
of 'our parish,' and the 'government grant' being un- 
known until 1833,* such educational provision as was 
made depended either upon individual munificence or 
collective subscriptions. In this respect the poorer parish- 
ioners of St. John's were exceptionally fortunate, for at the 
time the parish was formed there were already two schools 
— the Blue Coat, established in Duck-lane in 1688, and the 
Grey Coat, founded at the north-east end of Rochester-row 
in 1698 — in readiness to receive their children, not to speak 
of the Green Coat School, founded in 1633 ; the Black 
Coat School, commenced in 1656 ; and the Almery School, 
established in 1666, within the boundaries of St. Margaret's 
parish. 

On 20th January, 181 2, an application was made to the 
Vestry by the National Society for the Education of the 
Poor in the Principles of the Established Church, for a sub- 
scription. A Committee was thereupon appointed to wait 
upon the secretary, and a report was shortly afterwards 
made, recommending that a subscription be set on foot in 
the parish, on the understanding that the Society would 
establish a school therein ; but the recommendation was 
disagreed with on account, as the record has it, of the 
poverty of the parish and of the sufficiency of the then 
existing school accommodation. 

Nothing further was heard of the proposal until the Rev. 
J. Jennings brought his enterprise to bear in 1833, ^vhen a 
Committee was formed for the purpose of raising a fund 
for building a school-house, in which instruction should be 
provided on week-days for the children already assembling 
in unsuitable premises on Sundays. A freehold site in 
Tufton-street was purchased for ;^8io; a tender for the 
new building was accepted at ;^i,250 in June, 1834 ; the 

* The grants were at first limited to the purpose of erecting school buiklings ; 
those towards maintenance were not made until 1846. 



528 Local Institutions. 

foundation stone was laid by the Hon. and Rev. Lord John 
Thynne, on Monday, nth August following, and the school 
was opened on the ist June, 1835, the attendance reaching 
204 within three months. The fact that 100 of these had 
presented themselves for admission on the opening of the 
school, was probably due to a nucleus having been col- 
lected during the building operations, and to their liberal 
treatment meanwhile, for the minutes inform us that at an 
examination which was held, the secretary was ordered to 
provide " a sufficient quantity of cake and negus for the 
entertainment of the children." Among the donors to the 
building fund were H.R.H. the Duchess of Kent, ^20 ; the 
Dean and Chapter of Westminster, ^^^150; the National 
Society, ^400 ; the Bishop of Lichfield, £\2Q \ H.M. 
Treasury, ;i^6oo ; the Duke of Northumberland, ;^ioo ; the 
Duke of Buccleuch, ^50 ; Sir Francis Burdett, Bt, M.T., 
^100; and many of the parishioners and others who sub- 
scribed ;^io and upwards each. In August, 1838, the 
Committee received ^672 9s. 4d., as the share (two- 
fifteenths) granted to them by the promoters of the Musical 
Festival in Westminster Abbey after the coronation of her 
present Majesty ; and so great was the interest of the 
parishioners in the new undertaking, that a collection in 
St. John's Church amounted to over ^^"75. The congregation 
of St. Margaret's also subscribed, at collections in their 
Church, sums varying from ^^"30 to ^50, the day-school 
being available for the children of both parishes. 

The trust deed, which is dated 3rd June, 1834, bears 
twenty signatures, including, besides the Rev. John Jennings, 
rector of the parish, and the Very Rev. Dean Webber, 
minister of St. Margaret's, Mr. William Evans, sheriff of 
London and Middlesex {see page 147), Mr. Joseph Carter 
Wood, Mr. James Hunt, father of Sir Frederick Seager 
Hunt, M.P., Mr. James Lys Seager (co-partner with Mr. 
Evans), Mr. John Angus Walmisley, Mr. John Freeman, 
Mr. Thomas Wright, Mr. C. W. Hallett, and Mr. William 
Page Wood, afterwards Lord Hatherley. 



The original ' )nodeV school in St. Johns. 529 

The opening of the school took place at a time when the 
philanthropic mind had become impressed with the 
necessity for a better system of infant education, 
and of training teachers specially for that work. The 
National Society having observed the completion of this 
school upon the best designs of the day, intimated their 
willingness to regard it as a model school for infants, and 
for " the instruction of mistresses for the general supply of 
the country." Terms of co-operation were agreed upon 
between the Managing Committee and the Society, new 
teachers were appointed, and the organization of the school 
placed upon an efficient basis. Scarcely had it settled 
down to its work than it began to attract visitors from all 
parts of London and the suburbs. Within a few months 
many of the clergy and school managers from the home 
counties made a point of witnessing the working of the 
school ; and before the end of its first }-ear it had received 
visits from residents in Dublin, Wales, and nearly every 
county in England, including Northumberland and Durham 
on the north-east and Devonshire and Cornwall on the 
.south-west. As time carried the fame of the school still 
farther, the signature book received the autographs of 
visitors from France, Canada, Denmark, Germany, Guernsey, 
Holland, Sweden, the Mauritius, the Bahama Islands, and 
Trinidad, the last of the foreign visitants being Kdhem 
Bey, Hour.schid Effendi, and a companion, who signed in 
Arabic, from Egypt, on 17th May, 1848. At this period 
also frequent visits were paid by the principals of, and 
parties of students from the newly formed training colleges; 
but the success of the school gradually deprived it of its 
prominent position as a ' model,' for as the effect of the 
training institutions enabled the parochial .schools to attain 
a much higher efficiency in infant education, by supplying 
teachers specially trained for that department of the work, 
the ' model ' slowly yielded its prominent position as such, 
until, in 1858, it found it.self equalled by many an emulator. 

In addition to a school for infants in Vincent-square, 



530 



Local Institutions and Schools. 



which only existed for a short time prior to the erection of 
the schools attached to St. Mary's and St. Stephen's, a 
Free School in the Horseferry-road, the One Tun Ragged 
School, and three small schools of the same class, besides the 
school in Great Peter-street connected with St. Mary's Roman 
Catholic Church, were provided and maintained by voluntary 
subscriptions; but all except the National Schools and the 
last named have ceased to exist as day schools since the 
opening of the Board Schools in the Horseferry-road. 

In 1811 a Free School for the accommodation of 400 
children of the two parishes was established in Orchard- 
street. In 1 8 14 it was transferred to new premises erected 
in Little George-street, where the number of school places 
was increased to 1,000. The National Society's Depository 
now occupies the site. 

The school accommodation and average attendance in 
1870, when the School Board was called into existence, and 
at the present time, may be seen at a glance from the 
following table : — 

STATISTICS OF THE SCHOOLS IN THE PARISH, 





1871. 


1892. 


Name of School. 


Accom- 
modation. 

145 

545 
427 

668 

447 

472 

693 
1502 

333 

95 

140 

118 

387 


Average 
Attendance. 


Accom- 
modation. 


Average 
Attendance. 


*St. John, Tufton-street 

St. Mary, Tothill Fields 

+St. Stephen, Rochester- row 

.St. Stephen, Elementary, ditto 

St. Matthew, Great Peter-street 

Holy Trinity, Vauxhall Bridge-road 

St. ]ames-lhe-Less, Upper Garden- 
street 

St. Mary, R.C., Great Peter-street... 

Wesleyan, Horseferry-road ... 
|One Tun Ragged, and Perkins-rents 

Horseferr)'-road Board 

St. Margaret and St. John's, Horse- 
ferry-road, free 

Perkin's-rents Ragged 

Horseferry-road Ragged 

Pear-street Ragged ... 

Fourteen " private adventure " or 
" Dames' " Schools 


95 
298 

331 

249 
225 

303 
223 

597 

222 

^33 

159 

35 

307 


472 

1 744 
1038 

949 
706 

634 

462 

861 

1325 

712 


325 
461 
616 
696 
587 

457 

399 
267 
526 

533 



'■' These schools were originally for Infants only ; they are now for Girls and Infants, 
t Until recently known as the "Chauncey Hare Townshend" School. 
X Now in Old Pye-street, Westminster-buildings. 



" The rich luxury of doing good!' 531 



Chapter XVI. 



THE PAROCHIAL CHARITIES. 



'An ardent spirit dwells with Christian love, 
The e.igle's vigour in the pitying dove ; 
Tis not enough that we with sorrow sigh ; 
That we the wants of pleading man supply ; 
Not these suffice — to sickness, pain and woe, 
The Christian spirit loves with aid to go ; 
Will not be sought, waits not for want to plead, 
But seeks the duty — nay, prevents the need ; 
Her utmost aid to every ill applies. 
And plans relief for coming miseries." 

Ckai'.he. 

" With moistened eye 
We read of faith and purest charity 
In statesman, priest, and humble citizen. 
Oh, could we copy their mild virtues, then 
What joy to live, what blessedness to die 1 " 

WilKDSWOKTH. 



Bequests in tavour of St. John's exclusively. — Richard Farwell. — John 
Bacchus. —Edward Dickinson. — Ann Davis. — Jemina Jones. — 
Robert Stafford. — Rebecca Aldridge. — Elizabeth Ann Mitchell.— 
The Charities consolidated. — Application under the new scheme. — 
Hospitals, Trusts, and Schools. 



A 17 HEN the pari.sh of St. John the Evangelist was 
erected in 1728, within an area previously forming 
part of St. Margaret's parish, there were numerous charities 
already in periodical administration throughout the entire 
extent of the mother parish. The application of these 
charities is to-day continued over the original area, so that 
the two parishes share equall}- therein. After the formation 
of ' our parish ' there were bequests left b\- some of its 
benevolent inhabitants for the benefit of the poor of St. 
lohn's exclusivel}-. To these two classes of benefactions it 
is intended to confine the present chapter, — it is impossible 



532 Pai'ocJiial Charities. 

to bring within the Hmits of one chapter a notice of all the 
many parochial charities shared by the poor from time to 
time during nearly four centuries.* 

Giving priority, in their chronological order, to those be- 
quests which have originated within the parish since its 
formation, the first which presents itself to our view is 
that of 

Richard Farwell, 1747, by Will dated nth March, 
bequeathed to Sir John Crosse, Bart., one of the past 
Churchwardens, the sum of i!^200 for the purchase of a 
churchyard or burial-ground ; but if it should be impossible 
so to expend the money, then it was to be applied for the 
benefit of the church. On 26th June, 1752,^^123 17s. od. 
was laid out upon the " raising " of the burial-ground ; the 
balance of £^6 3s. od. was added to the fund for defraying 
the cost of the galleries erected in the church in 1754. 

John Bacchus, 1777, by his Will, dated 19th November, 
transferred ^^400 Consolidated three per cents, to the 
Churchwardens, the interest to be applied to keeping his 
monument in the burial-ground in good repair and to the 
relief of ten poor people upon every Christmas Day. 

Edward Dickinson, 1781, by Will, dated 8th May, 
gave, " for the assistance of labouring industrious honest 
and sober persons newly entered into the state of matri- 
mony," ;i^5,ooo capital stock, vested in the names of the 
incumbents of St. Margaret's, Westminster, Acton, and St. 
John's, Westminster, in trust ; to divide one year's interest 
into equal portions, and each to pay the one-third among 
such three couples, within one month next after Easter- 
day, married in the parish church one year before the dis- 
tribution, " toM'ards providing them with such necessaries as 
the}' may stand in need of" The Will stipulates that the 
distribution is to be made with the approbation of the 



* See '/'he Parochial Charilics of Wcstiniiislcr, 109 pp., puhlished in 1890. 



A premium on marriages. 533 

Bishop of London for the time being for ever, the Bishop 
at the time of the testator's death beinc^ requested to accept 
of a ring of the price of twent}^ guineas with the motto, 
" Prima societas in conjugio est." " This institution I 
mean " — runs the Will — " as a small essa}- towards pro- 
moting some way of encouraging the marriage of poor 
people who seem to me to labour under great discourage- 
ment at present in that respect through their marriage (as 
well as that of greater people which also seem to be in no 
very flourishing condition) in the very ground and founda- 
tion of the prosperity of the Common Wealth." 

This gift is still distributed by the rectors of St. 
Margaret's and St. John's, Westminster, and of Acton. 

Ann Davis, 1791. No particulars of the legacy are 
recorded, owing, in all probability, to a claim set up b}^ the 
executor to the right of administration, which the Vcstr\' 
were unable to contest. 

Jemima Jone.s, 1823, bequeathed ;^5o to the Church- 
wardens and Vestr}- for the time being, to be by them 
distributed among the poor of the parish. In the following 
month the monej- was given in 200 tickets, representing 
five shillings each, " no one person to have more than four 
tickets." 

Robert Stafford, 1865, of No. 31, Hyde Park-.square, 
bequeathed b)- Will, dated 23rd June, £^,0^ to the rector 
and churchwardens to be invested, the interest to be 
divided equall)' between ten poor inhabitants upon every 
Christmas-day. 

Rebecca Aldridge, 1866, of Barton-street, b)- Will 
dated i6th February, left the residue of her estate 
(^^231 OS. 5d. three per cent. Consolidated Stock) the 
interest to be applied to any charitable purpose to be 
approved by her executrix, Louisa Marsh and, after her 
decease, b>' the rector of St. John's for the time being. 
Mrs. Marsh subsequently requested the rector to distribute 

2 ]v 



534 Parochial charities. 

the dividends annually between two or more married couples, 
according to his discretion " who have lived together in 
love and harmony, soberly, respectably, and industriously 
for the space of three years or more upwards, no one couple 
to receive the income annually," although the same couple 
may be eligible to receive it at any interval of three years. 

Eliza Ann Mitchell, 1884, by Will dated 26th August, 
left ;^50 to the rector for the time being, to be applied in 
the purchase of bread or meat, and to be distributed by him 
among such of the poor as he might select. The sum was 
invested in Consols. 

By a scheme sealed by the Charity Commissioners on 
31st May, 1889, the bequests of Bacchus, Stafford and 
Mitchell, were merged with numerous others into a fund 
designated "the Consolidated Charit}'," the administration 
of which is entrusted by the scheme to fourteen trustees. 
Two of these trustees — the rectors for the time being of the 
two parishes, — are ex-officio, six are designated Co-optative 
—Sir Rutherford Alcock, K.C.B., W. Burdett-Coutts, Esq., 
M.P., George Taverner Miller, Esq., J. P., Henry Arthur 
Hunt, Esq., Frederick Rose, Esq., and George Nicholls, Esq.; 
and six are representative, three in respect of each parish 
bsing elected by the United Vestr}'. The gentlemen acting 
on the Trust in this capacity are Messrs. Z. King, F.R.I.B.A., 
churchwarden, W. M. Scudamore, and C. Wright, past- 
churchwardens, in respect of St. Margaret's ; M. H. Bishop, 
churchwarden, H. O. Hamborg, and C. C. Piper, Past- 
churchwardens, in respect of St. John's. 

The Consolidated Charity as adminstered by the newly 
constituted Board of Trustees throughout the two parishes, 
has an income of ;^3I7 14s. 4d. per annum. After pro- 
viding for the paj^ment of Joyce Goddard's Prison Charity, 
and the continuance of periodical allowances to certain 
poor persons who were receiving the same at the time the 



TJie Consolidated charities. 535 

scheme was published, the income is applicable in the 
following manner : — 

(A.) A sum of ;^ioo shall in every year be applied for the benefit of 
persons qualified as provided in clause 41 of the Scheme, and suffering 
from sickness, accident, or infirmity, in any one or more of the following 
ways, as the Trustees think fit, viz. ; — 

(i.) In providing Nurses, or in subscriptions or donations to any 

Association or Institution having for its object the provision 

of Nurses, 
(ii.) In subscriptions or donations to any Hospital, Dispensary, or 

other Institution of a like character conducted wholly or in 

part upon the provident system. 
(iii.) In subscriptions or donations to any Convalescent Home or 

other Institution of a like character. 

(B.) The Trustees may, in each year, apply such a sum, not 
exceeding ^50, as they think fit, for the benefit of persons qualified as 
provided in clause 41 of the Scheme, in one or more of the following 
ways : — 

(i.) Subscriptions or donations in aid of any Club or Society, 
conducted upon provident principles, for the supply of Coal, 
Clothing, or other necessaries. 

(ii.) Subscriptions or donations in aid of any duly registered 
Provident or Friendly Society. 

(iii.) Contributions towards the purchase of Annuities, whether 
present or deferred, or in aid of any income or other means 
of support possessed by the recipient, which shall be proved 
to the satisfaction of the Trustees to be properly secured, and 
to have been produced by his or her own exertions or 
providence. 

(iv.) Contributions towards the cost of passage or of outfit or 
otherwise in aid of persons desiring to Emigrate. 

(v.) The supply of Clothes, Linen, Bedding, Fuel, Tools, Food, or 
other articles in kind, to an amount not exceeding £20 in any 
one year. 

(vi.) The supply of temporary relief in money, by way of Loan or 
otherwise, in cases of unexpected loss, or sudden destitution. 

(vii.) Orants towards the payment of life assurance premiums, or 
of subscriptions or payments to duly registered l^rovident or 
Friendly Societies in cases where through prolonged sickness 
or other cause such premiums, or subscriptions may have 
fallen into arrear. 

(C.) Pensions, not exceeding six in number, and not less than six 
shillings nor more than eight shillings per week, and subject to regu- 
lations in other respects. 



I 


s. 


d. 


244 


19 





15 


5 


4 


35 








•7 


10 





20 








^317 


14 


4 



536 Parochial cJiaritics. 

The income upon the consolidated account is thus made 
up:— 

^8,907 15s. 6d. New Consols at 2}i % 
^610 13s. 4d. zYz % Annuities ... 
Rent of No. 16, Dacre-street 

Exchequer Bond, No. 70A 

Rent-charges 



The messuage in Dacre-street is let for a term of 21 
years from the nth November, 1879. 

Another important charity vested in the same Board of 
Trustees is that of Cornelius Vandon, the income of 
which, ^132 I2s. 4d., issuing out of ^^"4,822 13s. 5d. New 
Consols, is applied to the provision of home nursing for 
the sick poor, in fulfilment, as nearly as possible, of the 
original intention of the founder. The sum available for 
the work is augmented by ^100 from the Consolidated 
Charity ; but being still insufficient to establish a system 
equal to the needs of the two parishes, the Trustees united 
with the Governors of the Western Dispensary with a view 
to the formation of such a system. The Governors having 
consented to contribute ;!^ioo per annum, upon certain 
conditions agreed to by the two bodies, a Committee of 
twenty-four members, designated "the Westminster Nursing 
Committee," was appointed by the Trustees and the 
Governors. This Committee were entrusted with all the 
arrangements necessary to ensure such a system of nursing 
the sick poor at home by trained nurses, adequate to the 
demands of the two parishes, and being furnished with the 
i^300 per annum towards the expenses, undertook to raise 
such further sums as might be needed to maintain their 
work up to an efficient standard. Since the Committee 
commenced their labours three years ago, the sick poor of 
the parishes have received incalculable benefits — benefits 
of which the pious founder little dreamed when, three 



Comclins Vamion. 537 

hundred and fifteen years a<^o, he gave eight almshouses 

" for relief, succouring, and harbouring eight poor women 

who in time of sickness, as need should require, might help 

to keep and attend such as should be diseased." 

In the "Will Book of St. Margaret's, Westminster," is the 

following entry under date of 1577 : — 

" Cornelius Vandon, born at Breda, in Brabant, yeoman of the 
Guard, and usher to their Mat'^s K. Hen. the S'h, K. Edwd- the 6'fi. 
Queen Marie, and Q. EHzabeth, he did give eight ahnshouses in Pettie 
France, next to the end of St. James-street, for the use of eight poor 
women of the parish, he did also give eight other ahnshouses near St 
Ermin's-hill, by Tuttle side, for the use of eight poor widows of this 
parish." 

Much of the ground belonging to the St. Ermin's Hill 
houses became lost to the parish in 1803, in fine for the 
renewal of other parish leases. 

By power given under the Westminster Improvement 
Act, 1850, the Vestry purchased the ground and almshouses 
at Petty France for ^^2,992. and paid the proceeds into the 
Court of Chancery to " Vandon's Charity Account." The 
Vestry then, under the authority of the Improvement Act 
and of the Court, purchased in 1852 of the London and 
South Western Railway Company a parcel of land in 
Lambeth, on the north-west side of the viaduct by Carlisle- 
street, for £4^0. The residue, ;i^2,542, was then repaid to 
the churchwardens. In 1853 the churchwardens erected 
at a cost of i^950, on this plot of land, two new almshouses, 
each containing eight rooms, for four poor women, with 
wash-houses, drying ground, "an iron railing and entrance 
gate," etc. The balance was invested, and ;^40 of the 
dividends distributed amongst the eight other poor women 
dishoused, who were to enter the almshouses when vacancies 
occurred, when the payments were discontinued. After 
them the objects of the charity were to be " able-bodied 
women to act as nurses for the poor," and to that end no 
new recipients were appointed, the almshouses being let to 
tenants at a fair occupation rent, for the support of visiting 



53^ Parochial charities. 

nurses amongst the poor. The books show the constant 
investing, selling, and re-investing of the funds, in order to 
augment the charity, as the state of the market allowed. 
In 1879-83 the rents derived from the almshouses averaged 
^80 a year, but in 1886 they had fallen to £1"] ; and in 
1887 the London and South Western Railway Co. paid 
iJ"2,ooo to the Official Trustees for the purchase back of 
the houses and site. 

In St. Margaret's church there is a curious monument to 
the memory of Vandon, " soldier with King Henry at 
Turney . . . of honest and virtuous life; a careful man 
for poor folk, who, in the end of this town did build for 
poor Widows tiventy houses of his own cost." The monu- 
ment is adorned with a half length figure of Vandon, 
curiously carved, in the dress of a yeoman of the guard. 
Round the effigy are the words : — " Obiit Anno Dom., 1577. 
Buried the 4th of September, yEtatis suae, 94." 

At the time of the transfer of the charity to the Parochial 
Trustees four nurses were being employed in the ecclesiastical 
parishes of St. Margaret, St. John, St. Andrew, and Christ 
Church ; the arrangement being continued until the West- 
minster Nursing Committee had undertaken their new 
duties in January, 1890. 

Two other bequests, applicable mainly for apprenticeships, 
were transferred to the same Board of Trustees for, man- 
agement, by the Scheme of 1889. 

The income is derived partly from investments in consols 
and partly from real estate : — Forrest Charity, iJ"i 129 7s. 2d. 
New Consols, representing an income of .^^3 1 is.; Grinsell's 
Charity, ;i{^ 1 838 8s. iid. New Consols, producing iJ'50 lis.; 
and freehold property, about 3^/2 acres in area, producing 
^150 in ground rent. 

The origin and object of these two benefactions are 

sufficiently shown by the following extracts : — 

1625. — Henry Forrest, in his last Will and Testament, dated 
30th August, gave ^10 a year "out of my Houses and Lands in 



Forrest and Gritiscl/, 539 

Channon Row in Westminster for ever ... to be paid towards 
the maintenance of five poor Fatherless and Motherless children — I 
say xxs. the pccice every halfe year for ever to help them bind appren- 
tices until they shall be able to shift for themselves in the world, and 
so to others after them." This annuity was sold to the Commissioners 
of Westminster Bridge for ;{^ 300. For some time (about 1829), as no 
opportunities presented themselves for applying the charity, the money 
accumulated. The Vestry therefore re-invested it in different securi- 
ties from time to time, and allowed the profits to be added to " the 
parish stock," where the fund was in great danger of being lost to its 
original purpose ; but having, fortunately, been restored, the fund now 
forms part of the " Forrest and Grinsell Charity."' 

1670. — Mrs. Jane (iRINSELL, wife of Humphrey Grinsell, of the 
City of St. Margaret, Westm., in the County of Middx., grocer, and 
daughter of Samuel Booth, deceased, and Elizabeth, his wife, since 
called Elizabeth Hill, wife of Emery Hill, by Will dated 28th Septem- 
ber, left a certain property of North End, Fulham, now known as 
Mornington House, and garden, containing an area of about 3J'2 acres 
in trust, the produce to be laid out in " putting fortli poore children 
yearly to apprentice for e\er," in sums not to exceed ;^5 for each 
child. The becjuest took effect in 1675, upon the death of the foun- 
dress's husband, to whom the estate was reserved during his lifetime 
by the Will. It is worthy of note that the witnesses to the Will were 
Emery Hill, Charles Rampaine, and Dorcas Palmer — all names asso- 
ciated with valuable benefactions to the parish. 

From 1675 to 1724 the annual income from the estate 
was £\2 \ in 18 10 it had risen to ^26 5s. ; now it amounts 
to ^150. The first purchase of stock, in 1857, amounted 
to ;^35 Three per cent. Annuities. Additional invest- 
ments were made from time to time as the rents accrued 
until, at the transfer of the charity to the management of 
the Parochial trustees in 1889, the fund consisted of 
;i^i,838 8.S. I id. New Consols. 

B)' the scheme of the Charity Commission this charity 
is incorporated with the bequest of Henry Forrest as " The 
Forrest and Grinsell Charity " and is applied to purposes 
of apprenticeship. 

In addition to the foregoing, which are classified by the 
Charity Commission as " the Parochial Charities," there are 
other valuable legacies in which the deserving poor of St. 



540 Parochial charities. 

John's participate equally with those of St. Margaret's. Of 

these, however, the particulars must be given very briefly : — 

1594. Emanuel Hospital. — Almshouses and pensions. 
[This charity is at present in a state of suspense, pending the sale of the 
site and a general reconstruction.] 

1603. Arneway Trust.— Loans from ^50 to ^200 at 3 per cent. 

interest. 
1633. United Westminster Schools. — Free exhibitions for 190 

boys. Minimmn annual value, ;i{^855. 
1674. United Westminster Almshouses.— Residences and 

pensions for aged men and women. Annual income, 

^2,346. A reference to this institution has been given at 

page 496. 
1679. Westminster Technical Fund. — For the technical 

education of exhibitioners at the last-named schools, and 

of girls at the Grey Coat Hospital. Annual income, 

^125 14s. 4s. 
1688. Blue Coat School. — Free education and clothing of 

twenty boys. Income uncertain. (See p. 522. j 
1691. Duchess of Somerset's Charity. — Pensions, donations 

to hospitals, «S:c., and temporary relief in kind or money. 

Income, £s~7- 
1706. Grey Coat HosPlTAL.^Free exhibitions for 100 girls. 

Annual value, ^^450. This important school is noticed at 

page 519. 

The origin of these charities, with such general inform- 
ation thereon as was then obtainable, was touched upon in 
the pamphlet issued by the Vestry in 1890, in which also 
the almshouses, erected at Fentiman-road, Brixton, by the 
Dean and Chapter of Westminster, as the acting Trustees 
of the bequests of George Whicher (1680), Judith Kifford 
(1698), and Letitia Cornwallis (1731), were brought to 
notice. 



" My pen is at the bottom of a page. 
Which being finished, here the story ends ; 
'Tis to be wish'd it had been sooner done, 
But stones '■omehow lengthen when begun." 

BVRON. 



"A child yet in the go-cart!' 54 1 

CONCLUSION. 



Our simple effort to conduct the indulgent reader through 

a comparatively unknown, and, in some respects, uninviting 

parish, is finished. Our way through the streets and places 

may have been tedious ; our desire to interest those who 

have accompanied us to the fields, the ferry, and the 'fortress' 

may have failed, and the views we have presented may 

have lacked the artist's touch. Nevertheless, we have but 

slender fear that the considerate reader will lay aside our 

unpretentious volume at its close with disappointment, for 

we promised very little at its commencement. In looking 

back, however, at our predecessors — at their tendencies, 

their troubles, and their triumphs — we may derive guidance, 

or warning, or encouragement for ourselves ; we may be 

reminded of the truth that one generation is but the heir of 

those which have passed away, having but an entail interest, 

as it were, in the rights and privileges to which we succeed. 

And if we recognise that we are morally bound to hand 

down those rights and privileges, augmented, if possible, 

but unimpaired, at least, to those who succeed us, our task 

will not have been performed in vain. In this sense our 

little parish may become a true reflection of our beloved 

country. The past has only to be made cognisant to the 

present, to ensure an earnest striving for the welfare of the 

future ; and it is the careful study of history, and the 

emulation with which that study inspires the best of 

England's sons, that still — 

" Keeps our Britain whole within herself, 
A nation yet, the rulers and the ruled — 
.Some sense of duty, something of a faith, 
.Some reverence for the laws ourselves have made, 
Some patient force to change them when we will, 
Some civic manhood firm against the crowd I 

This fine old world of ours is but a child 

Yet in the go-cart. Patience I give it time 

To learn its limbs : there is a Hand that guides I" 

Tennyson. 

2 1. 



54-- ""But pm'do7i equally to hooks or men" 



ADDENDA & CORRIGENDA. 



Page 4. — line 27. — For Cozens read Coscns. 

Page 79. — line 30. — For 'Haddington,' read ' Hoddington,' as correctly 
given later in the same sentence. Dr. Gee was admitted to St. 
John's College, Cambridge, 9 May, 1676. He was B.A. 1679, and 
M.A. 1683, and was incorporated in the latter degree, at Oxford, 
4 March, 1683-4. The degree of D.D. was conferred upon him 
by Archbishop Tenison on Feb. 8, 1695. 

Page 80. — Swift's Occasional Notes. Given as Thoughts on Varioics 
Stibjccts in Sir W. Scott's edition of the Dean's works ; 
Constable & Co., Edinburgh, 1824 ; Vol. IX. page 238. 

Page 81. — Swift in his Examination of Certain Abuses, &^c., refers to 
the " famous Dr. Willes " whose ingenious translation of 
treasonable letters, written in cypher by Jacobite plotters, brought 
many of them to trial. 

Page 99.— Line 21 — Act of 1840 : the 3 and 4 Vict. cap. 113, sec. 29. 

Page 102. — The Churchill family. — 

Thomas Churchill was ' master bricklayer to his Majesty.' died 
Sept. 4, 1736. Gentleman's Magazine, 1736, \^ol. 6, p. 552. 
The London Chronicle of 5 Jan., 1764, contains the following — 
" Monday last Mr. Churchill, of Dartmouth-street, (brother to 
— Churchill the poet) was chose, by a very great majority, by 
ballot, Apothecary to the Poor of the parishes of St. Margaret 
and St. John, Westminster. There were four candidates." 
The Rev. Wm. Churchill, youngest brother of the poet, was also 
educated at Westminster. He was vicar of Orton-on-the-Hill, 
Leicestershire, and died there, in June, 1804. 

Page 103. — The epigram is to be found in Watkins' History oj 
Bidcford. 1792, p. 119. 
1749. — John Howell, son of Thomas Howell, of Lampeter Velfry, 
CO. Pembroke ; Trin. Coll. Oxon ; matriculated 27th March, 
1740, aged 19; B.A. 1743. 
1758. — Edward S^l\llwell was admitted to Westminster 
School, 1735. 

Page 112. — 1762. Vincent Hotchkiss. He had been beneficed in 
Barbadoes, and lived in College-street. 
1769. A. M. TOPLADY ; ordained deacon, 1762, and priest, 1764, 
by the Bishop of Bath and Wells ; curate of Blagdon, Somerset 
1762 ; curate of Farleigh — Hungerford, Somerset, 1764-5. 



" The slips of huvian nature and the pen." 543 

Page 113. — 1805. William Davies, B.A. ; probably rector of Cathe- 
dim, CO. Brecon, 181 5. 

Page 116.— 1849. William Henry Davies, youngest son of Sir 
David Davies, M.D., K.H., and a godson of William I\'. ; 
born 1825, educated at Charterhouse and Christ Church, Ox- 
ford ; matriculated 1844, graduating B.A. in 1848, and proceed- 
ing M.A. in 185 1. Mr. Davies was formerly chaplain of St. 
George's Hospital, and died at sea, on board the Lord Warden, 
nine days before her arrival at Calcutta, 22nd Jan., 1868. 

Page 128. — Burial-ground. A leading and a very pleasant feature in 
the subscription list was, in addition to the Duke of Westminster's 
munificent gift of ^1000, the contributions of Westminster 
firms ; as for instance — Messrs. Broadwood & Sons, 50 guineas, 
(besides Mr. F. Rose, 50/. and Mr. G. T. Rose, 21/)., Messrs. 
Mowlem, 50/., Messrs. T. J. Miller & Sons, 21/., New West- 
minster Biewery Co., 21/., Messrs. Watney & Co., 20/., Messrs. 
Trollope, 10 guineas, Messrs. Farmiloe, 10 guineas, Messrs. 
J. B. White Bros., 10 guineas, &c. The list included the names 
of the Dean of Westminster, the Duke of Norfolk, the late Duke 
of Buccleuch, the Baroness and Mr. Burdett-Coutts, Sir F. 
Seager Hunt, the late Rt. Hon. W. H. Smith, Sir Rutherford 
Alcock, thelate Sir H. A. Hunt, Rev. Canon Furse, Mrs. Jennings, 
etc., etc. Sir. F. Seager Hunt, M.P., washon. treasurer, and Mr. 
Charles Wright, of 7, Grosvenor-road, hon. secretary of the 
Fund. 

Page 260. — The quotation from Hume's History that trial by battle 
" was never abolished by law in England " is of course corrected 
by the statement made on p. 263. that all such proceedings were 
abolished by 59 George III., c. 46, passed after the publication 
of Hume's monumental work. 

Page 297. — Line 25.— For Hollar read W. Capon. 

Page 315. — For Abcmarlc read Albcniartc. 

Page 327. — For Barbitry read Barbary. 

Page 355. — For Londina Illustrata read Londini Illiistrata. 

Page 359. — Line 13.^ — Y ox Rembrandt xQ^.d IVymints. 

Pages 396, 420, 461. — The doubts expressed as to the names being de- 
ri\ed from parts of the Westminster estate are removed by a 
letter dated I4ih December, 1892, in which Mr. Boodle, Agent 
to the Duke of Westminster, writes: " No part of Lillington- 
street belongs to the Westminster estate," and adds " I am not 
aware that the Duke or any of his ancesters owned property in 
Warwickshire, and I do not think the names Warwick or Tach- 
brook-street can have been derived in the way suggested." 

Page 397. — Edward-street was named after Canon Holland Edwards 
as was also Holland-street (see also pai:;-e 423). 



544 Addenda & Corrigenda. 

Page 403. — For Spencer read Spenser. 

Page 410. — Line 3. — For Biographica Draniatica read Biographia 
Draniatica. 

Page 420.— There is a stone built in the wall of the ' Queen's Head 
public-house at the corner of Marsham- street (No. 68) with 
Great Peter-street, bearing the inscription — T/iis is Mars/iam 
Street, 1688. 

Page 425. — New-street was a private road when first built. 

Page 452. — A tablet in the wall of the corner house in Smith-square, 
numbered 12, North-street (west side) bears the date 1726. 




226 



^^r /77 ® 



